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start of Westmorland |
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Page 158:-
ROBERTO LANG
TON ET MILLONI
SPEIVCER QVI
APLEBEIAE F. f.
HANC SCOLAM
H.M.OB.M.P.R.B.P.
DE REPUBLICA BENE MERERE
PVLCHRYM EST.
C.C. in the 4th line in circumfluit, F.F. in the 4th
funditus, and the last F. fuit. So that here
we have its Roman antiquity, its devastation by war and
pestilence, and the removal of the market to Gilshaughlin
four or five miles north-west of the town in Cliburn
parish.
"The other stones which are placed on the front of this
building, all except two, I take to be copies made by the
said Reginald Bainbrig, from severall originals which he
found in sundry places of this country and the parts
adjacent; most of which are published by Mr. Camden, if not
all [b]."
Appleby has several evidences of its antient splendour.
Henry I. gave it privileges equal to York, that city's
charter being granted as is pretended in the forenoon and
this in the afternoon of the same day. Henry II. granted
them another charter of like immunities, as did Henry III.
in whose time here was an Exchequer. These privileges were
in all points like those of York, and confirmed by
succeeding kings. When it was first governed by a mayor does
not appear; but here was one in the reign of Edward I. with
two provosts, who seem to have been formerly equal to
sheriffs or bailiffs, and signed the public acts of the town
with the mayor [c], though now they only attend him with
halberds. Bromton mentions Aplebyschire, which seems
to imply that it had then sheriffs of its own as most cities
had, though now we call them bailiffs. For 2 Edward I. in a
confirmation charter to Shap abbey we find this
subscription: Teste Thoma filio Johannis tunc vicecomite
de Apelby. The Scotch wars by degrees reduced this town.
It was burnt 22 Henry II. and again 11 Richard II. when of
2200 burgages by due computation of the fee-farm rents,
these remained not above 1/10th as appears by inquisitions
in the town chest. Since that time it never recovered
itself, but lay dismembered like so many separate villages
which could not be known except by records to have belonged
to the same body. For though Burgh gate is spoken of
as the principal street, yet Bon gate, Battle burgh,
Dongate, Scattergate, are all members of it, and that it
was antiently of greater extent appears from the
Burrals near a mile from it, which word being a
corruption of Burrow walls may prove its having been
walled about, because the town walls of Bath are called
Burrals, and ruins of buildings have been dug up two
or three miles from the present town [d]. The condition and
misfortunes of this place are recited in the inscription
before-mentioned in the school-house garden.
The Viponts and Cliffords (ancestors on the mother's side to
the earls of Thanet) have been lords of the country, and
flourished at this place for above 400 years [e]. Here was a
house of White Friars founded 1281, and near it an hospital
of St. Nicholas [f].
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Buley castle.
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Bewley Castle
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Buley castle is said to have been erected at
different times by several bishops, and there is remaining
an account of several ordinations held there [18]. It is now
a mean and ruinous building [g].
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Crackenthorp.
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Crackenthorpe
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From thence the Eden runs to Crackenthorp hall, a
seat pleasantly situated on its east bank belonging to the
Machels, a family of good note in this county from the
Conquest to the present time. About it lie several
considerable camps, and many antiquities found thereabouts
and in other parts of the county were collected and
preserved by Mr. Thomas Machel, brother to Hugh Machel, lord
of the manor, and late minister of Kirkby Thor, who intended
a history of this county [19].
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roman fort, Burwens
Bravoniacum
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Nigh the way side between Crackenthorp and Kirkby Thore, on
the side of the Roman road, is a large Roman camp, 300 yards
by 150, having three entrances on each side and at each end,
with bulwarks before them, and at about a bowshot distance
further by the way side is a small fort called
Maidenhold, which seems to have been a guard house or
watch tower to the camp, and, by its name, may possibly have
some relation to the Maidenway at Kirkby Thore and
Maiden castle upon Stainmore [h]. At Machel's
bank, about 10 yards from the Roman way, were discovered
in ditching three urns with burnt bones and ashes contiguous
to each other, in a triangular form, in the middle of a
round pit of clay made for the purpose about a yard deep,
compassed with burnt bones and black ashes to within a foot
of the surface, the remainder being closed up with earth.
About 40 or 50 yards distant from these was another similar
pit full of ashes and burnt bones without any urns [i].
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BROVNAC[AE]. Kirby
[Thor.]
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Mr. Ward [k] places BROVONACAE at Kirby Thor, Brugh being
ten miles from thence as Verterae is from
Brovonacae. The altar mentioned by Mr. Camden is now
worked up in the end of the old school house at Appleby, and
under a modern inscription H. M. EST GALLAGI, Hoc
monumentum est Gallagi, probably by Mr. Bainbridge
before-mentioned. Mr. Machel in Phil. Trans. No.158,
describes a patera found here inscribed ... TIAN IMP ....
Coins, urns, and other antiquities have also been found here
[l]. In 1753 was found in a stone wall of a field near the
parsonage house the upper half of an altar, inscribed:
IOVI SERAPI
L[ ]ALE[ ]NVS [ ] FALF
Another beginning ANTONIA. There are like wise other Roman
letters and sculptures, upon several of the door lintels, in
the same town, which Mr. Horsley has omitted [m].
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Whelp castle.
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The manor house, as well as most of the town of Kirkby
Thor, have been built out of the remains of Whelp
castle, of which there are now scarce any remains. The
main body of it stood in a place called the Burwens,
on a rising ground at the bank of the rivulet called
Troutbeck, not far from the river Eden.
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[b]
From a MS. paper in my possession signed H.T. probably Hugh
Todd.
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[c]
E cartis Machellorum de Crackenthorp.
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[d]
Burn, I. 309.
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[e]
Tan. 588.
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[f]
Burn, ubi sup.
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[18]
G.
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[g]
Burn, 456.
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[19]
G.
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[h]
On the etymology of these names see Mr. Pegge in Gent. Mag.
XXV. 273. 1755.
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[i]
Burn, I. 351, 352.
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[k]
Horsl. 510.
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[l]
Ib. 298.
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[m]
Gent. Mag. VIII. 417. 1738. XXIII. 270. 1753.
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The
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gazetteer links
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-- "Appleby" -- Appleby-in-Westmorland
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-- Bainbridge Inscriptions
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-- "Buley Castle" -- Bewley Castle
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-- "Crackenthorp Hall" -- Crackenthorpe Hall
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-- Friary, The
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-- "Kirkby Thor" -- Kirkby Thore
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-- "Maidenhold" -- (Maidenhold, Crackenthorpe)
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-- "Brovonacae" -- (roman fort, Burwens)
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-- (roman fort, Redlands Bank)
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-- St Nicholas's Hospital
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