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St Ninian, Brougham
St Ninian's Church
Brougham Church
Ninekirk
civil parish:-   Brougham (formerly Westmorland)
county:-   Cumbria
locality type:-   church
coordinates:-   NY55932995
1Km square:-   NY5529
10Km square:-   NY52


photograph
CBW84.jpg (taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
CBW87.jpg (taken 24.10.2014)  

evidence:-   old map:- OS County Series (Wmd 4 10) 
placename:-  St Ninian's Church
source data:-   Maps, County Series maps of Great Britain, scales 6 and 25 inches to 1 mile, published by the Ordnance Survey, Southampton, Hampshire, from about 1863 to 1948.
"St Ninian's Church (Rectory)"

evidence:-   old map:- Saxton 1579
placename:-  Nynechurches
source data:-   Map, hand coloured engraving, Westmorlandiae et Cumberlandiae Comitatus ie Westmorland and Cumberland, scale about 5 miles to 1 inch, by Christopher Saxton, London, engraved by Augustinus Ryther, 1576, published 1579-1645.
image
Sax9NY53.jpg
Church, symbol for a parish or village, with a parish church.  "Nynechurches"
item:-  private collection : 2
Image © see bottom of page

evidence:-   old map:- Mercator 1595 (edn?) 
placename:-  Nynechurches
source data:-   Map, hand coloured engraving, Northumbria, Cumberlandia, et Dunelmensis Episcopatus, ie Northumberland, Cumberland and Durham etc, scale about 6.5 miles to 1 inch, by Gerard Mercator, Duisberg, Germany, about 1595.
image
MER8CumD.jpg
"nynechurches"
circle 
item:-  JandMN : 169
Image © see bottom of page

evidence:-   old map:- Speed 1611 (Cmd) 
placename:-  Ninechurches
source data:-   Map, hand coloured engraving, Cumberland and the Ancient Citie Carlile Described, scale about 4 miles to 1 inch, by John Speed, 1610, published by J Sudbury and George Humble, Popes Head Alley, London, 1611-12.
image
SP11NY53.jpg
"Ninechurches"
circle, building, tower; Westmorland 
item:-  private collection : 16
Image © see bottom of page

evidence:-   old map:- Speed 1611 (Wmd) 
placename:-  Ninechurches
source data:-   Map, hand coloured engraving, The Countie Westmorland and Kendale the Cheif Towne, scale about 2.5 miles to 1 inch, by John Speed, 1610, published by George Humble, Popes Head Alley, London, 1611-12.
image
SP14NY53.jpg
"Ninechurches"
circle, tower 
item:-  Armitt Library : 2008.14.5
Image © see bottom of page

evidence:-   old map:- Jansson 1646
placename:-  Ninechurches
source data:-   Map, hand coloured engraving, Cumbria and Westmoria, ie Cumberland and Westmorland, scale about 3.5 miles to 1 inch, by John Jansson, Amsterdam, Netherlands, 1646.
image
JAN3NY53.jpg
"Ninechurches"
Building and tower. 
item:-  JandMN : 88
Image © see bottom of page

evidence:-   old map:- Seller 1694 (Wmd) 
placename:-  Ninechurches
source data:-   Map, hand coloured engraving, Westmorland, scale about 8 miles to 1 inch, by John Seller, 1694.
image  click to enlarge
SEL7.jpg
"Ninechurches"
circle, italic lowercase text; settlement or house 
item:-  Dove Cottage : 2007.38.87
Image © see bottom of page

evidence:-   old map:- Morden 1695 (Wmd) 
placename:-  Ninechurch
source data:-   Map, hand coloured engraving, Westmorland, scale about 2.5 miles to 1 inch, by Robert Morden, published by Abel Swale, the Unicorn, St Paul's Churchyard, Awnsham, and John Churchill, the Black Swan, Paternoster Row, London, 1695.
image
MD10NY52.jpg
"Ninechurch"
Circle, building and tower. 
item:-  JandMN : 24
Image © see bottom of page

evidence:-   old map:- Simpson 1746 map (Wmd) 
placename:-  Browham Chapel
source data:-   Map, uncoloured engraving, Westmorland, scale about 8 miles to 1 inch, printed by R Walker, Fleet Lane, London, 1746.
image
SMP2NYL.jpg
"Browham C."
item:-  Dove Cottage : 2007.38.59
Image © see bottom of page

evidence:-   probably old map:- Bowen and Kitchin 1760
source data:-   Map, hand coloured engraving, A New Map of the Counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland Divided into their Respective Wards, scale about 4 miles to 1 inch, by Emanuel Bowen and Thomas Kitchin et al, published by T Bowles, Robert Sayer, and John Bowles, London, 1760.
image
BO18NY42.jpg
circle, tower 
item:-  Armitt Library : 2008.14.10
Image © see bottom of page

evidence:-   old map:- Jefferys 1770 (Wmd) 
placename:-  Nine Churches
source data:-   Map, 4 sheets, The County of Westmoreland, scale 1 inch to 1 mile, surveyed 1768, and engraved and published by Thomas Jefferys, London, 1770.
image
J5NY52NE.jpg
"Nine Churches"
circle, labelled in italic lowercase text; settlement, farm, house, or hamlet? 
item:-  National Library of Scotland : EME.s.47
Image © National Library of Scotland

evidence:-   old map:- Donald 1774 (Cmd) 
placename:-  Nine Churches
source data:-   Map, hand coloured engraving, 3x2 sheets, The County of Cumberland, scale about 1 inch to 1 mile, by Thomas Donald, engraved and published by Joseph Hodskinson, 29 Arundel Street, Strand, London, 1774.
image
D4NY52NE.jpg
"Nine Churches"
church 
item:-  Carlisle Library : Map 2
Image © Carlisle Library

evidence:-   old text:- Camden 1789 (Gough Additions) 
placename:-  St Ninians
placename:-  Nine Churches
source data:-   Book, Britannia, or A Chorographical Description of the Flourishing Kingdoms of England, Scotland, and Ireland, by William Camden, 1586, translated from the 1607 Latin edition by Richard Gough, published London, 1789.
image CAM2P162, button  goto source
Page 162:-  "..."
"... in a peninsula is St. Ninians, vulgarly called Nine churches, the parish church of Brougham. The late rector of this and Clifton, Mr. Patten, was a correspondent of Dr. Stukeley and Mr. Gale, and gave them a particular account of the many antiquities in this neighbourhood. His daughter Mrs. Bockham, who 1771 kept a farm near Arthur's round table, told me, that, on her removal from Newcastle she burnt a great collection of these letters and drawings of seals, &c."

evidence:-   old map:- Cary 1789 (edn 1805) 
placename:-  Nine Churches
source data:-   Map, uncoloured engraving, Westmoreland, scale about 2.5 miles to 1 inch, by John Cary, London, 1789; edition 1805.
image
CY24NY52.jpg
"Nine Churches"
block/s, labelled in italic lowercase; house, or hamlet 
item:-  JandMN : 129
Image © see bottom of page

evidence:-   old map:- Otley 1818
source data:-   Map, uncoloured engraving, The District of the Lakes, Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancashire, scale about 4 miles to 1 inch, by Jonathan Otley, 1818, engraved by J and G Menzies, Edinburgh, Scotland, published by Jonathan Otley, Keswick, Cumberland, et al, 1833.
image
OT02NY52.jpg
Marked by a cross. 
item:-  JandMN : 48.1
Image © see bottom of page

evidence:-   old text:- Gents Mag
item:-  knight templarCrusades
source data:-   Magazine, The Gentleman's Magazine or Monthly Intelligencer or Historical Chronicle, published by Edward Cave under the pseudonym Sylvanus Urban, and by other publishers, London, monthly from 1731 to 1922.
image G846B632, button  goto source
Gentleman's Magazine 1846 part 2 pp.632-633 
page 632:-  "Mr. W. Brougham gave an account of the discovery of the supposed remains of a knight-templar, during the late repairs of Brougham church, Westmoreland. The sword (of which a drawing was shown) was in a perfect state; but Mr. Brougham stated that only one spur had been found; a circumstance which may possibly be attributed to the difficulty of adjusting the legs, which were, as usual, crossed, to the dimensions of the wooden coffin in which the body had been originally inclosed. It was remarkable that a fragment of glass of undoubted Phoenician fabric was found with these remains. The general opinion seemed to be, that it had been worn by the deceased as a talisman; and it, in some degree, corrobo-"
page 633:-  "[corrobo]rated a tradition which, according to Mr. Brougham, had always associated the interment in question with an ancestor of the family, said to have joined one of the Crusades during the twelfth century"

evidence:-   old text:- Gents Mag
placename:-  Nine Kirks
source data:-   Magazine, The Gentleman's Magazine or Monthly Intelligencer or Historical Chronicle, published by Edward Cave under the pseudonym Sylvanus Urban, and by other publishers, London, monthly from 1731 to 1922.
image G848A373, button  goto source
Gentleman's Magazine 1848 part 1 p.373  "..."
"The [Brougham] family burial aisle is not in the chapel at the hall, but in the chancel of Brougham church, or as sometimes called "Nine Kirks;" and here from"
source data:-   image G848A374, button  goto source
Gentleman's Magazine 1848 part 1 p.374  "the Saxon times have the family constantly deposited their dead. A quiter and more peacable resting place could not well be imagined. It is between three and four miles from the hall, lying apart from any habitation in a sequestered nook of land occupying the bend of the river, and altogether is one of thoses little quaint old-world spots consecrated by religion which are more frequently mentioned in books than to be found in reality."
"The church itself is a very similar structure to the chapel at Brougham, but not near in so good repair, and has a musty, mouldy smell of decay so usual in such out-of-the-way churches. Beside the chancel door lie three stone coffin-lids, seemingly kicked out of the chancel to make room for some subsequent memorials, since become also antiquated, and till of late years but little either noticed or cared for. The church has an open timbered oaken roof, arches with wind braces, &c. and, in spite of repairs circa 1660, which have destroyed and nearly obliterated the original architecture, it has a solemn gloom, from the smallness of its round-headed windows, filled with dim old dingy and smudged green glass. The principal object of attraction is the disinterment made in the year 1846, and so well described in the Archaeological Journal by Mr. Brougham, with attendant notes by Mr. Albert Way. Oaken trap-doors have been contrived, in the most judicious manner, which lift up with rings, and now disclose the remains, as discovered, but minus the relics of the spur, metallic end of horn, and sword, now at the hall. The first skeleton discovered was cross-legged, and with the spur in question upon the left-heel, but with none on the right, or any trace of there having been any. This curious fact, in opposition to the well-known importance attached to a pair of spurs, has caused much speculation. One similar instance is mentioned by Mr. Way, but of a more remote period. Some of the figures amongst the anceint decorations of the Painted Chamber at Westminster are so portrayed in the Vestuta Monumenta. This skeleton is known to be that of Udard de Brougham, who flourished in the 12th century, and is surmounted by a flag or coffin-lid, incised with a cross flory and a cross-hilted sword, with what appears to be a sort of circular shield. This stone tradition has always pointed out as the "Crusader's tomb." Upon another incised flag, with a cross and sword upon it, is a rough incision of the letter B, and this is supposed to cover the remains of Gilbert de Broham, who succeeded Udard, and died 1230. Nine of these skeletons were examined, and with one supposed to be Saxon, was discovered a circlet seemingly of silver gilt, and apparently the end of a horn. It is about three inches in diameter and three quarters of an inch broad, and covered with interlacing work, intermingled with a sort of cherub with the hands raised. As only two incised flags are remaining, it may not be improbable that those on the outside may appertain to these remains. It would at all events be interesting to lift them from their present resting-place, and examine what is beneath."
"In the family vault, close by where these skeletons lay, are several coffins of lead of various ages, and one large one of stone filled with bones; collected into this no doubt to make room for others."
"What storms have passed over the land since the remote period when these lifeless figures lorded it over the surrounding country in all the pomp and circumstance of barbarous power! How peaceful now, with not a sound to dispel their rest, but the gurgling of the adjacent river, or the sighing of the breeze! The stillness is so solemn that the opening of the rusty-hinged heavy chancel door is quite startling, and the harsh grating of the trap-doors sounds enough to awaken the sleepers of the six and eight centuries below."

evidence:-   old text:- Gents Mag
source data:-   Magazine, The Gentleman's Magazine or Monthly Intelligencer or Historical Chronicle, published by Edward Cave under the pseudonym Sylvanus Urban, and by other publishers, London, monthly from 1731 to 1922.
image G848A620, button  goto source
Gentleman's Magazine 1848 part 1 p.620 
Old Subscribers disagree:-  "Then, as to the Crusader's grave, so wonderfully discovered in the parish church of Brougham, belonging to Udard de Broham, it is the most puerile creation ever set up, particularly as bones bear no inscriptions nor dates; and it was shrewdly observed by one of the London daily papers at the time of the supposed discovery, that from the cross-legged position in which the skeleton was found it was as likely to have been the timbers of an ancient knight of the thimble as a crusader. We are of the same opinion."

evidence:-   old text:- Gents Mag
source data:-   Magazine, The Gentleman's Magazine or Monthly Intelligencer or Historical Chronicle, published by Edward Cave under the pseudonym Sylvanus Urban, and by other publishers, London, monthly from 1731 to 1922.
image G848B032, button  goto source
Gentleman's Magazine 1848 part 2 p.32 
and reasserted by Mr Shaw:-  "Their rampant assertion, to use their own words, about the Crusader's grave and the prick-spur, &c. I leave in the hands of Mr. Albert Way and the other gentlemen connected with the Journal of the Archaeological Institute, in which work what they term "the most puerile creation ever set up," was first given to the public."

evidence:-   old text:- Gents Mag
source data:-   Magazine, The Gentleman's Magazine or Monthly Intelligencer or Historical Chronicle, published by Edward Cave under the pseudonym Sylvanus Urban, and by other publishers, London, monthly from 1731 to 1922.
image G848B138, button  goto source
Gentleman's Magazine 1848 part 2 p.138 
Old Subscribers again:-  "We doubted the story about the crusader's grave, the sword, the prick-spur, "of intense interest," and Mr. G. Shaw's absolute statement, that a skeleton found in Brougham church was the remains of Udard de Broham, because bones bear neither names nor dates. Not a word is said upon this; but we are handed over to Mr. Albert Way and the gentlemen of the Archaeological Institute. We can have no objection to that - but this is no answer; for these parties can only judge after all of what is placed before them. ..."

evidence:-   old text:- Gents Mag
placename:-  Ninechurches
source data:-   Magazine, The Gentleman's Magazine or Monthly Intelligencer or Historical Chronicle, published by Edward Cave under the pseudonym Sylvanus Urban, and by other publishers, London, monthly from 1731 to 1922.
image G849A226, button  goto source
Gentleman's Magazine 1849 part 1 p.226  "J. C. writes thus,- "On the floor of the church of Brougham or Ninechurches, in Westmerland, is a brass to the memory of Henry Burgham, who it appears died 20th Sept. 1570, and of Catharine his wife, who is described as daughter and heiress of Sir Ralph Nevile, Knight. I should be obliged to any of your readers who can give me some information as to who this Sir Ralph Nevile was, and of what family he was a member.""

evidence:-   old text:- Gents Mag
item:-  cross slabChristian Monuments of England and Wales
source data:-   Magazine, The Gentleman's Magazine or Monthly Intelligencer or Historical Chronicle, published by Edward Cave under the pseudonym Sylvanus Urban, and by other publishers, London, monthly from 1731 to 1922.
image G850A283, button  goto source
Gentleman's Magazine 1850 part 2 p.283 
  "In a review of the 'Christian Monuments of England and Wales' by Mr Boutell, speaking of cross slabs:-"
image  click to enlarge
G850E01.jpg
"No accompaniment to the cross is more common than a sword, as might be presumed from the military character of feudal times. Mr. Boutell has placed side by side the very similar stones at Brougham, in Westmorland, and at Newton Rigney, in Cumberland, the former ascribed to Udard de Broham, who, having taken the cross in the second crusade, died about the year 1185; and the latter bearing the arms of Vaux of Catterlen, whose name has been associated in the title of peerage conferred on the ex-chancellor. The circular figure on the Brougham stone is supposed to represent a target-shield. ..."

evidence:-   site plan:- Historical Monuments 1936
source data:-   Site plan, uncoloured lithograph, Brougham, Parish Church of St Ninian, Brougham, Westmorland, scale about 1 to 290, published by Royal Commission on Historical Monuments England, London, 1936.
image  click to enlarge
HMW040.jpg
On p.56 of the Inventory of the Historical Monuments in Westmorland. 
printed, top  "BROUGHAM - PARISH CHURCH OF ST NINIAN"
RCHME no. Wmd, Brougham 2 
item:-  Armitt Library : A745.40
Image © see bottom of page


photograph
BMT40.jpg  Bell, inscription:-
"Ninekirkes Ano 1696 R.A." (taken 6.10.2006)  

 memorials and coats of arms

 stained glass

 hatchments

evidence:-   database:- Listed Buildings 2010
placename:-  Church of St Ninian
source data:-  
courtesy of English Heritage
"CHURCH OF ST NINIAN / / NINEKIRKS / BROUGHAM / EDEN / CUMBRIA / I / 74217 / NY5593629961"
source data:-  
courtesy of English Heritage
"Redundant parish church. 1660, on medieval site, for Lady Anne Clifford, porch dated 1841. Red sandstone rubble walls with regularly-spaced buttresses, porch of reeded red sandstone ashlar; graduated greenslate roof with C19 west bellcote. 4-bay nave with single-bay chancel, under common roof. Porch has Tudor-arched doorway with date panel above. Nave and chancel have small round-arched windows in hollow double-chamfered surrounds under hoodmoulds. Chancel has south round-arched priest's doorway under hoodmould. Windows in east and west walls are similar but slightly taller than those in north and south walls. Porch covers flattened segmental-headed C17 doorway. Interior has much of its original 1660s woodwork; 9-bay roof with collar-beam trusses having curved braces and short kingposts above the collar beams. Original box pews, some on north side to their original height (with restoration) having turned balusters. Chancel screen with turned balusters, but central doors missing. 7-sided pulpit with sounding board. Pedestal font on C20 base is dated 1662. 3 hatchments of arms. Poor box beside door is inscribed and dated 1663. Chancel has plaster wreath enclosing initials AP (Anne Pembroke) 1660. Priest's door screen is made up of carved C17 panels. C17 heavy turned-baluster altar rail. Creed and Pater boards on east wall. Various C18 and C19 wall plaques to the Brougham family, one set into floor. Reset floor slab to Cuthbert Bradley, incumbent, 1624. 3 further slate slabs with brass figures and coats-of-arms are C19, recording earlier members of the Brougham family. Church now maintained by the Redundant Churches Fund. See RCHM, Westmorland, 1936, pp.54-6."

 cross slabs


photograph
CBW94.jpg  The church was rebuilt by Lady Anne Clifford (Anne Pembroke), 1660; east wall:-
"AP 1660" (taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
CBW93.jpg  Pews, dated 1661.
(taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
CBX19.jpg  Pew, catch..
(taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
BMT39.jpg  Pulpit and screen.
(taken 6.10.2006)  
photograph
CBX16.jpg  Pulpit, with three reading desks.
(taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
CBX20.jpg  Parish chest.
(taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
CBX21.jpg  Parish chest.
(taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
CBX18.jpg  Poor box:-
"REMEMB / ER THE / [POOR]" (taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
CBW88.jpg  Roof beams.
(taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
CBX14.jpg  Panelling by door.
(taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
BMT41.jpg  Medieval corbel, reset in the porch.
(taken 6.10.2006)  
photograph
CBW86.jpg  Date on porch:-
"A.D / 1841" (taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
CBX24.jpg  18th century stable for the parson's pony and cart.
(taken 24.10.2014)  
photograph
BMT30.jpg (taken 6.10.2006)  
photograph
CBW83.jpg (taken 24.10.2014)  

notes:-  
Tradition has it that the church was founded by St Ninian who was travelling to Whithorn, in the 5th century. It was mentioned as a chapel of ease in 1393. By the time Lady Anne Pembroke inherited her estates,1643, it was very delapidated. She rebuilt the church in 1660; and the only significant change since then is the addition of the porch in 1841.
The diaries of Lady Anne Pembroke, about ?1660, have:-
"It would in all likelihood have fallen down it was soe ruiness if it had not been repaired by me."

: : church leaflet

notes:-  
There was a village here, Brougham, until the Veteripont Family enclosed Whinfell Forest, and removed the village to near Brougham Hall.

: : church leaflet (at St Wilfred, Brougham)

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