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Page 295:-
Within these few years, several visitors of the lakes extend
their tour, by taking in Whitehaven, and proceeding from thence,
by Cleator and Kinnyside, to Ennerdale Bridge; at which place
guides can be procured, to conduct them by the best rout to
Ennerdale Broad-water; and, if they choose, from thence to
Lowes-water, Buttermere, &c.- This part of the journey (without
which the tour is incomplete) cannot, however, be performed in a
carriage; but a ride on horseback will amply recompence the
trouble, for the scenery is delightful, and the objects have been
pronounced (as well by many gentlemen of taste as by artists of
much celebrity) highly interesting. Many such have ventured to
prefer these views even to some of those which have attracted so
much attention from the patrons of the fine arts.
Certain it is, the approach to the lake of Ennerdale, to
Lowes-water, and to Buttermere, is from no other quarter so
magnificent and captivating. The lake of Ennerdale appears in
view. To the left, a majestic wood, rising gradually up the side
of Cold-fell from the opposite shore of the water, imparts the
most graceful ornament to the entrance into a region perfectly
different from the last. A short turn to the right lays the whole
lake and valley open to the view, and Herd-house presents his
tawny front, as regent of the scene. The furniture of the lake
(if the expression may be allowed) is totally changed: on the
traveller's side (the east) the farms are stretched out, and
exhibit a verdure seldom exceeded in the most fertile parts of
this kingdom; and in a compass of a few miles, the number of
small tenements seem to say with Goldsmith,
'Here every rood maintains its man.'
On the opposite shore of this little ocean (which is frequently
seen vexed with little storms of short duration) the mountain
towers with great dignity; neither terrible nor in-
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