|
Gentleman's Magazine 1805 p.919
quivered prettily on the margin of the Lake, and a little
fleet of boats rode at anchor in the peaceful harbour of
Low-wood. We ascended a gentle eminence in a lane leading to
the village of Troutbeck, and frequently turned to survey
the prominent beauties of the surrounding landscape. The
stupendous chaos of rocks terminating the Northern shore, to
us appeared no other than the Pyrenean Chain, and a
very moderate exertion of the fancy transported us to the
classic borders of the Leman Lake. Notwithstanding
the variety of character which the shores of Windermere
present, the oblong regularity of its sides is rarely
diversified by the jutting of a promontory or the sinuosity
of a bay. Before us rose, in a magnificent cluster, the
rocks of Hardnose, Wryknot, Rainsbarrow, &c. towering
one above another in awful grandeur, and harmonizing all the
infinite varieties of shade, while the silver pikes of
Langdale undulating fancifully along the verge of the
horizon, filled the broken intervals of distance. From these
sloped the tame fells of Coniston, degenerating Southward
into low and naked downs, shelving to the shores enlivened
here and there by inclosures of green pasture and yellow
corn. Some handsome knolls, pointed with wood, variegate the
ornaments of the Eastern beach. The mediocrity of the
Southern boundary, however conspicuous, might have escaped
the severity of Criticism, if it were not unfortunately
exposed by the splendour of connexion. In scenes like these,
where Nature, working in the style of a bold and independent
Master, launches into the wild and fanciful, and soars
beyond the conception of human genius, we are unable to
reconcile an association so distasteful, and would rather
have been blind to the beauties, than have witnessed the
deformities of the picture. Consistency is surely compatible
with the boldest design; and it is painful to see the
liveliest colours mixed on the same canvass with the
sombre.
The woody valley of Troutbeck, or Trout-river, an
interesting walk of two miles from Low-wood, boasts a few
scattered cottages, a moss-grey church, and a stream. so
beautifully clear that not a fish nor a weed can escape
detection. But these are not the only boast of Troutbeck.
The modest register of her sons, "To fortune and to Fame
unknown," is ennobled by the birth of Romney and
Wilson; names honourably distinguished in the history
of our Arts and Jurisprudence.
We crossed the river and mounted a green slope, ornamented
by the neat and hospitable mansion in which the learned
Judge tranquillized the evening of his active life.
Untainted by the guilty bribe,
Uncurs'd amid the harpy tribe,
No orphan's cry to wound his ear,
His honour and his conscience clear!
There is a capacious quarry above Troutbeck, that furnishes
a stone of excellent durability, and from this were conveyed
the materials employed in the last reparation of Westminster
Hall. On our descent towards the Howe, and the farm-house of
the Stricklands, we snatched a glance of the river working
its way furiously through the glen, and almost buried in the
depth of its woody sides. Here opened an extensive view of
the Southern shore, comprising the farthest sweep of the
Lake, and the islands floating in its bosom. Beneath us, in
a marshy bottom, stood the heavy edifice of Calgarth House,
the residence of the Bishop of Llandaff; a station so
unhappily selected, as to exclude every interesting view of
the enchanting scenery that surrounds it.
On our return we made a frugal meal in the arbour of
Low-wood. The sun shone most splendidly on the mountains,
and the serene azure sky was without a cloud. The white sail
flitted by the wall of the garden, relieved at intervals by
the alternate dashing of the labouring oar.
We revelled through the long evening under the majestic
rocks of Rydal. The path winding round the head of the Lake
opened upon a rich vale of meadow, luxuriant from the
moisture of its mother streams. Here we crossed the river
Rothay, and traced it through the valley, which is of the
finest verdure. We were awed at the approach of those rugged
rocks that looked so smooth and silken at a distance. Their
broad bases are shrouded in a labyrinth of wood, while their
loftier sides are occasionally broken by a projecting point,
or an insulated hollow. Here the solitary cow, cautiously
descending, crops in uninterrupted security the delicious
herbage. Such is the tremendous elevation to which she
aspires, that the animated speck would be unperceived but
for an accidental
|