button to main menu   West's Guide to the Lakes, 1778/1821

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Page 204:-
ruin, in all shapes and in all directions: something farther we turned aside into a coppice, ascending a little in front of Lowdore water-fall: the height appeared to be about 200 feet, the quantity of water not great, though (these three days excepted) it hath rained daily for near two months before; but then the stream was nobly broken, leaping from rock to rock, and foaming with fury. On one side a towering crag, that spired up to equal, if not overtop, the neighbouring cliffs (this lay all in shade and darkness) on the other hand a rounder, broader, projecting hill shagged with wood, and illuminated by the sun, which glanced sideways on the upper part of the cataract. The force of the water wearing a deep channel in the ground, hurries away to join the lake. We descended again, and passed the stream over a rude bridge. Soon after we came under Gowdar-crag, a hill more formidable to the eye, and to the apprehension, than that of Lowdore; the rocks at top deep-cloven perpendicularly by the rains, hanging loose and nodding forwards, seen just starting from their base in shivers. The whole way down, and the road on both sides, is strewed with piles of the fragments, strangely thrown across each other, and of a dreadful bulk; the place reminds me of those passes in the Alps, where the guides tell you to move with speed, and say nothing, lest the agitation of the air should loosen the snows above, and bring down a mass that would overwhelm a caravan, I took their counsel here, and hastened on in silence.
Non ragioniam di lor, ma guarda e passa.
The hills here are clothed all up their steep sides with oak, ash, birch, holly, &c., some of it has been cut forty years ago, some within these eight years: yet it is all sprung again, green, flourishing, and tall for its age, in a place where no soil appears but the staring rock, and where a man could scarce stand upright. Here we met a civil young farmer overseeing his reapers (for it is now oat harvest) who conducted us to a neat white house in the village of Grange, which is built on a rising ground in the midst of a valley; round it the mountains
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gazetteer links
button -- Borrowdale
button -- "Gowdar Crag" -- Gowder Crag
button -- Grange
button -- "Lodore Banks" -- High Crag
button -- "Lowdore Waterfall" -- Lodore Falls
button -- Keswick to Borrowdale
button -- Watendlath Beck

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