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turn off to the right (leaving Mell-fell, a round green hill, on
the left) to Matterdale, and proceed to Gowbarrow-park, which
will bring them upon Ulls-water, about the middle part of it,
where it is seen to great advantage. But here it must be
observed, that some of the principal beauties of the lake, and
the sweetest pastoral scenes, are entirely lost by this route.
Dunmallet, the greatest ornament of the lake, with the whole of
the first great bend, cannot here be seen, and much of the
dignity of the lake is thereby lost. It is therefore better to
ride to the gate on the right, that leads to Dacre, and over
Dacre-common, to the foot of Dunmallet. By this course, every
part of the lake will be viewed to the greatest advantage.
Mr. Gray's choice of visiting this lake, was from Penrith, up the
vale of Emont. 'A grey autumnal day,' he writes, 'went to see
Ullswater, five miles distant; soon left Keswick road, and turned
to the left, through shady lanes, along the vale of Emont, which
runs rapidly on near the way, rippling over the stones; to the
right, Dalemain, a large fabric of pale red stone, with nine
windows in front, and seven on the side. Further on,
Hutton-St.-John, a castle-like old mansion of Mr. Huddlestone.
Approach Dunmallet, a fine pointed hill, covered with wood. Began
to mount the hill, and with some toil
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