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Gentleman's Magazine 1800 p.19
bound up in icicles; but my grand intention was, to settle
an account with my own mind; and do away any false pride,
which the handsome things said of a young creature at
Buttermere might have disordered her with.
Jan. 8, 1798, I left the Salutation-inn, at Ambleside, where
I always feel myself at home: there, "A Fortnight's Ramble"
originated, and a great part of the poem on Windermere was
written. We had an exhilerating clear atmosphere, and not a
breath of air. Grasmere valley and lake were in the sweetest
view; the reflection in the water of the sheep grazing on
the island was most famous, and the tones of the
wether-bells, as they nibbled along, delightful music.
Besides, the surface shewed, what I never observed before, a
sugar-loaf top of snow, peeping amongst other hills,
apparently to the naked eye all of the same height; but the
lesser hills were green or rough as Nature formed them. No
one could have passed this scene, without half an hour's
admiration, and particular attention to the chaste summit;
which proves it to be a mountain, on the highest part of
which only there was then snow.
A rock on the top of Helm Crag exactly resembles a
thirteen-inch sea-mortar, ready to burst forth her
formidable shell at 45 degrees elevation; military men would
be much struck with it; and yet it had formerly escaped my
notice, till a gentleman desired me to observe it. I then
went to Robert Newton's, and took care to order a cup of his
"good woman's preserved gooseberries" at breakfast, and was
made a great deal of. I had no sooner breakfasted, but was
shewn by Robert a near path to the high road; and seeing a
person brushing up it, I made such expedition I overtook a
clergyman of the county before he had surmounted it; like
myself, he was on foot to Keswick [ ] take advantage of this
very fine day. There cannot be a better road, and the
varieties in view are superb, or pleasing; I had never
walked farther than Grasmere that way. The returning look
from the top of the road into the valley, overpowered me
with delight; the icy gems that studded the opposite hills,
on which the sun had influence, were innumerable; this quiet
vale, thus bedecked, was superior to whatever the strongest
fancy could conceive; and I am certain, as we saw it, must
always live in my companion's remembrance. I have a stronger
proof than any thing I can say, of the indelible appearance
of this valley, and shall go aside from my present walk to
make it known. On my return from this excursion, I had
stopped at the Cherry-tree, the half-way house, and learnt
that the chearful old woman, spoken of in the Ramble, was
dead; the other, now 84, was nursing a sickly looking
infant, which she held in her withered arms with much
affection, and bitterly lamented that colds had been very
prevalent, and fatal to the children about them. The house
looked so gloomy to what it formerly did to me, I hastened
out of it, although I was feebly asked if I chose to have a
bed; and soon overtook a weary old soldier, that seemed to
toddle on, overcome by fatigue. He told me he had walked
that morning from Whitehaven, that he was hastening to
Liverpool, to chastise a captain of a ship, with the
crab-stick in his hand, for cruelly treating his son when at
sea. I soon drew him from that disagreeable subject, "to
shoulder his staffe," and talk the fights he had been in. As
we advanced, and I pointed to the mortar on the crag, he was
quite delighted with the remark, and said,- "that bull-dog
looks as if it was going to open u[ ]on us, to hinder our
passing the Gaut;" and for himself, when he came to a full
command of Grasmere, he thus spoke - "Forty years
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