button to main menu  Clarke's Survey of the Lakes, 1787

button title page
button previous page button next page
Page 27:-
length and loudness, all is still and silent for a few moments; when the sound returns with astonishing and redoubled violence down the valley in which How-Town is situated; so great now is the uproar, that all other repetitions seem mere whispers, and must be heard in order to convey any adequate idea to the reader.
  Kailpot Crag
Not far from this place is Kailpot-Cragg: so called, from a large, smooth, circular cavity, (much resembling a pot or boiler,) in the solid blue rock. The boat may go close to it, as at fourteen yards from the shore there is twenty-six fathom water, and the face of the rock is nearly perpendicular. Cavities of this kind are not unfrequent in rapid torrents subject to frequent floods, or in large falls of water; and these are occasioned by the rolling of stones, which are always found in them, ground as if done by an artist: but here not one of those circumstances takes place, and on that account this rock may safely be ranked among our natural curiosities.
  Hallin Hagg
Next proceed to a little bay in Hallin-Hagg, where the painter will meet with employment for his pencil in two most beautiful landscapes. The best of these, in my opinion, faces Glencoyn, and contains many good objects not crouded too close together. The side-screens will be Ewe-Cragg, the rising ground in Gowbarrow Park, and some other less striking objects on the right hand: on the left: a small coppice, Sandwich-Dod, Sandwich-Cascade, and Birk-Fell: the front screen will take in Glencoyn-House, Lyulph's Tower, and the picturesque ground on which they stand; whilst Glencoyn Pike, Common-Fell, Catesby [Catsty] Pike, and Helveylin, succeeding each other in just degrees of distinctness, close the distances. I formerly shewed this view to Mr Smith when he was upon one of his painting expeditions; but a violent thunder-storm coming on, interrupted his work, and I do not know whether he ever returned to finish it.
  Lyulph's Tower
We now proceed higher up the lake, till we are near Lyulph's Tower; a very handsome edifice, built by the Earl of Surrey, as a retreat from the noise and bustle of state, to the enjoyments of rural ease and peace. It received its name from a tradition, that Liolf, Lyulph, or Ligwulf, the first owner of this Lake, had a tower here, and gave his name to the Lake. But this is denied by some, who assert that Ulpha, or Ulphus, had this honour, and that the name of Ulswater is merely a contraction of Ulphus-Water. To me it scarce appears credible that ever this Lake had only one owner, and of course, that it had its name on some other account, though perhaps it might be Wolfs-Water, as the deep woods, and almost inaccessible mountains on the banks of the Lake, would undoubtedly afford a safe asylum to these animals.
But to return to the story of Lyulph. I find one of that name mentioned by Speed, Guthrie, and some other old historians: He is said, at the time of the Norman Conquest, to have retreated hither, that he might enjoy more liberty than he could do in the more southern counties. He lived here some time in great retirement, till at length, in 1080, he went upon a visit to Walcher Bishop of Durham. Being a young man, of exemplary sense and prudence, he was much caressed by the Bishop, and thus raised the envy and jealousy of Gilbert, one of the Bishop's chaplains and kinsmen. Gilbert, fearing that Lyuph might supplant him in the Bishop's favour, murdered him, and found means to make his escape: but no sooner was the death of Lyulph known, than the remembrance of his amiable conduct raised such indignation in the minds of the people, that the Bishop grew very apprehensive of the consequences, and loudly disclaimed all knowledge of the affair. This, however, availed little: the minds of the people were filled with such a detestation of all that were any way concerned in the death of their beloved lord, that, contrary to the customs of even those barbarous times, they entered the church, whither the Bishop had fled for sanctuary, and killed him at the very altar.
  Aira Force
From Lyulph's Tower are several fine prospects; and at the distance of about 400 yards is a truly astonishing Cataract, called Airey Force: Here a considerable stream of water falls near 40 yards perpendicular, with a most tremendous noise, over a rough
craggy
erratum from p.194
for Catesby, read Catsty.
gazetteer links
button -- "Airey Force" -- Aira Force
button -- "Geordy Neb" -- Geordie's Crag
button -- "Kailpot Cragg" -- Kailpot Crag
button -- "Lyulph's Tower" -- Lyulph's Tower
button -- (station, Hallinhagg)
button -- "Ulswater" -- Ullswater
button next page

button to main menu Lakes Guides menu.