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plunges the road, with rock and torrent on either hand, and
the bold sweeps of Coldfield and Scandale Screes shutting in
the pass; and the little lake of Brothers' Water lying
below, afar off among the green levels; and, closing in the
whole in front, the mass of Place Fell,- the other side of
which goes sheer down into Ullswater. The stranger must not
omit to observe near the head of the pass, the fallen rock,
ridged like a roof, whose form (like that of a miniature
church) has given its name to its precincts. All the way as
he descends to Brothers' Water, the openings on the Scandale
side (the left) charm his eye,- with their fissures,
precipices, green slopes and levels, and knolls in the
midst, crowned with firs. He passes through Hartsop, and
then winds on, for three or four miles, among the rich
levels of Patterdale, which is guarded by mountains jutting
forwards, like promontories. The Patterdale Inn, kept by Mr.
Gelderd, is another of the first-rate hotels of the
district. The stranger, who must have left Windermere early
in the morning, hastens to order a car or a boat, to take
him to Gowbarrow Park, and desires that dinner may await him
in about three hours' time.
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If the weather is calm and fine, he has a boat, to which he
must walk across the meadows. As soon as he is afloat, the
beauties of Ullswater open upon him,- the great Place Fell
occupying the whole space to the right; and Stybarrow Crag,
precipitous and wooded, shoots up on the left-hand bank. The
road winds below it, under trees, passing good houses, and
the paths to Helvellyn, and to the lead works, and to
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