button to main menu  Gents Mag 1766 p.166

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Gentleman's Magazine 1766 p.166

  Lancashire to Scotland
Account of a Journey from Lancashire into Scotland

... ...
Extract of a Letter from a Gentleman to a Lady, giving an account of his Journey from Lancashire into Scotland.
MADAM,
I take the liberty to send to your Ladyship, the account I promised of my journey into Scotland.
Lancaster and Kendal are the two first towns I came to, that I had not seen before, they are both well built, and well situated; from the latter I went fourteen miles over mountains as difficult to pass as the Alps are represented, but there are several natural cascades, some of an immense height tumbling from one rock upon another, that make the scene altogether pleasing and romantic.
From the summit of the last of these hills, there appears an easy ascent beyond the valley, Lord Lonsdale's house and park, and a large extent of his estates, beautifully interspersed with woods, water, and rich pasture, and meadow grounds, which still seem more delightful, because of the immediate transition, from barren rocks to one of the richest vales imaginable. Not far from hence I crossed a bridge, just below which the river divides, one part falling down a cascade into a seprentine stream, the other into a strait canal, planted on each side with a row of high elms, that form an arch over it. Adjoining it is a gentleman's seat, with a park and terrace lying to the water, but the owner has left it to live in a town. I lay at Penrith, and from thence rode to Carlisle, over a fine country, not quite open, nor too much enclosed, so well cultivated, that all the prospects look chearful, and are set off by having the mountains every where in view.
Carlisle is a very pretty town, sweetly situated, there is a hill beyond it, that affords a most glorious prospect, having a great river, a noble bridge, and fine meadows below, and, on the hill opposite the town, surrounded with trees, and gardens, above which on a green bank, stands the castle; four miles from hence, the Esk divides the two kingdoms, the stream of which is so rapid, that we found some difficulty in passing it.
The first thing I observed in Scotland, was a group of women washing in the middle of a large pond, with their cloaths tucked up so high, that they were naked to the tops of their thighs; upon taking a near view, and asking them some questions, it amazed me to find in so short a space, so great an alteration in the persons, language, and manners of the people. The roads I found very good, being in most places raised, with ditches on each side to drain them; but at Annan a royal burrough, the first town I came to, I had a sad presage of the accommodations I was to expect in the inns; they being worse than such cottages where you see written over the door, lodging and small beer for foot travellers. ...
Further travels, in Scotland, are not copied.
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