button to main menu  Clarke's Survey of the Lakes, 1787

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Page 79:-
away and left us; and our horse had eaten so many coals, that it was wanton, and cantered up with one end up and down with the other: I turned as sick as a peat (8) and vomited all that ever was in me. Oh! wounds I was ill, and thought I should have died: I vomited all colours. The day after we set forward an island met us, they called it Man; I would gladly have seen it come close to us, but it slipt away by and left us: but some more land met us next day after; it ws very shy, but we followed it up, because they said Dublin was upon it. I persuaded the man with the three-cornered hat to overtake it if he burst his horse; and he told a fellow to twist (9) the tail of it, as they do swine or bulls when they carry them to bait at Keswick and they will not go forward; then we got to Dublin presently.
But I had like to have forgot to tell thee such great black fishes we saw; they snored, when they came out of the great pool, like thunder, and they swallow land-horses as hens do barley; (perhaps swallow sea-horses when they die.) It was a fine bright morning when we got into Dublin bay, as they call it, where the sea goes up to the land as a dog does to the head of a bull. Two men in one of their boats came to our horse side, they called them Paddies; one could not tell their language from geese. They drunk heartily of our water too; it stunk too, but we had nothing better to drink, for the great pool is as salt as brine; it would poison thee if thou tasted it. We gave the two fellows in the boat a halter, and they led our horse into Dublin, as wild as it was. But Oh! man what a fine country there was on the other side of us; houses as white as snow (10), and as close as mice: Dublin town looked like a great fold full of sheep, that one could but just see the heads of: chimneys looked like horns, and church-steeples and spires, as they call them, like as many goat-horns amongst the others. Sea-horses are as numerous in Dublin river (11) as if thou was looking at ten thousand geese in a gutter (12); they have not folds for them as we have in England, (the town keeps them warm in winter,) but they feed them with sand, as they do at Whitehaven with coals, only not out of rack-hurries; they have a mouth in their side, in at which men feed them with great iron spoons. But Oh! man it was lucky I lighted upon a man that went to school with me when I was a little boy; we were devilish kind, and he said he would let me see all things. If I had gone into Dublin by myself, I might have gone fifty miles a-day and seen nothing but house after house, and (the streets) like our lanes for length; one cannot see the earth for pavement any where. I should never have seen Old England again if I had been by myself, I dare say, for they are the devil for setting one wrong if one ask them. There are houses they call public buildings, that are so fine I cannot tell thee what they are like: the Parliament-House, where gentlemen go to bait one another, there are a number of great stone props at the foreside of it; there is a room with red benches in it, where they fight, I suppose it may be blood. There was a little woman let us see that house; she was about four feet high, and was as thick as three old mares twined together: I wonder that she did not grow higher by living in a house twenty or thirty feet high, but she was as broad as a haycock. Opposite to this, and about a stone-throw from the Parliament-House is Collership-House; it is a larger place than the other. If thou was ever in a place where great rocks hang over on all sides of thee; it would be like the square in the middle of the college: the people that I saw there was most of them as black as devils: it certainly is not hell, but they say they get dead people out of their graves; I think it is true, for I saw a great number of dead peoples bones, and some lock'd up in glass coffins with flesh on; and there were children and bits of flesh preserved in bottles as people do berries. There was a fellow with a bunch of keys opened locks and doors as quick as sight: it made me think of Revelations where
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(8) Sick as peat; an old phrase denoting extreme sickness, which I cannot explain. (9) Twining bull-tails; a method used to give the animal pain, and the resource of butchers in driving obstinate cattle. (10) White as snow, in the original white as drip, another proverbial expression I cannot explain. (11) Dublin river, the original Dublin beck; beck is a stream of water not large enough to be called a river, yet larger than what is called a Brook. (12) Gutter, a ditch. (13) Collership, a blunder for scholarship, meaning the college.
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