button to main menu  Martineau's Complete Guide to the English Lakes, 1855

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Page 68:-
guest. By some device or another, Scott managed to pay a daily visit to the Swan without his friends being aware of it. But, when he, Wordsworth, and Southey were to ascend Helvellyn, mounting their ponies at the Swan, the host saw their approach, and cried out to Scott, "Eh, sir! you've come early for your drink to-day." It was a complete escape of the cat from the bag; but Wordsworth was not one to be troubled by such a discovery. No doubt he took the unlucky speech more serenely than his guest.
  Dunmail Raise
From the Swan, the road to Keswick ascends Dunmail Raise;- a steep pitch of road, though its highest point is only 720 feet above the sea. On the right there is a stream which divides the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland; and on either hand rise the mountains of Steel Fell and Seat Sandal. The cairn,- a rude mass of stones near the top of the ascent, which the stranger should be on the look out for, marks the spot of a critical conflict in the olden time,- that is, in A.D. 945,- when the Anglo Saxon King Edmund defeated and slew Dunmail, the British King of Cumbria, and then put out the eyes of the two sons of his slain foe, and gave their inheritance to Malcolm, King of Scotland.
  Thirlmere
  Armboth House

At the Nag's Head, the little inn which is about a mile and a-quarter further on, the traveller must decide on one of three courses,- as politicians are wont to do. He may go up Helvellyn, or he may bowl along on the high road, straight through Legberthwaite, and immediately under Helvellyn; or he may go on foot, or on a pony, round the western side of the lake, which is
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button -- Dunmail Raise Stones
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