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Account of a Journey from
Lancashire into Scotland
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Extract of a Letter from a Gentleman to a Lady, giving an
account of his Journey from Lancashire into
Scotland.
MADAM,
I take the liberty to send to your Ladyship, the account I
promised of my journey into Scotland.
Lancaster and Kendal are the two first towns I
came to, that I had not seen before, they are both well
built, and well situated; from the latter I went fourteen
miles over mountains as difficult to pass as the Alps
are represented, but there are several natural cascades,
some of an immense height tumbling from one rock upon
another, that make the scene altogether pleasing and
romantic.
From the summit of the last of these hills, there appears an
easy ascent beyond the valley, Lord Lonsdale's house
and park, and a large extent of his estates, beautifully
interspersed with woods, water, and rich pasture, and meadow
grounds, which still seem more delightful, because of the
immediate transition, from barren rocks to one of the
richest vales imaginable. Not far from hence I crossed a
bridge, just below which the river divides, one part falling
down a cascade into a seprentine stream, the other into a
strait canal, planted on each side with a row of high elms,
that form an arch over it. Adjoining it is a gentleman's
seat, with a park and terrace lying to the water, but the
owner has left it to live in a town. I lay at
Penrith, and from thence rode to Carlisle,
over a fine country, not quite open, nor too much enclosed,
so well cultivated, that all the prospects look chearful,
and are set off by having the mountains every where in view.
Carlisle is a very pretty town, sweetly situated,
there is a hill beyond it, that affords a most glorious
prospect, having a great river, a noble bridge, and fine
meadows below, and, on the hill opposite the town,
surrounded with trees, and gardens, above which on a green
bank, stands the castle; four miles from hence, the
Esk divides the two kingdoms, the stream of which is
so rapid, that we found some difficulty in passing it.
The first thing I observed in Scotland, was a group
of women washing in the middle of a large pond, with their
cloaths tucked up so high, that they were naked to the tops
of their thighs; upon taking a near view, and asking them
some questions, it amazed me to find in so short a space, so
great an alteration in the persons, language, and manners of
the people. The roads I found very good, being in most
places raised, with ditches on each side to drain them; but
at Annan a royal burrough, the first town I came to,
I had a sad presage of the accommodations I was to expect in
the inns; they being worse than such cottages where you see
written over the door, lodging and small beer for foot
travellers. ...
Further travels, in Scotland, are not copied.
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