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Kirkby Stephen
Mr URBAN,
AS I continued some days at Kirkby Stephen, in
Westmoreland, I made some occasional observations,
which, if you think proper, you may communicate to the
publick, Yours, &c. S.
THE etymon of the name is easily traced, as bye is
the old Saxon word for a village, so that
Kirkby is church town; and Kirkby-Kendal, and
Kirkby-Stephen, signify the church towns of
Kendal and Stephen.
The village is situated on the west bank of the river
Eden, which takes its rise from Hughstat
mountain, about six miles higher up, on the skirts of
Yorkshire, near the sources of the Swale and
the Rother. This mountain is falsely called Hutton
Morvel in most maps, and indeed, none of these desolate
places have been laid down with any tolerable degree of
exactness.
The whole village consists of one single street,
indifferently built, which lies nearly north and south,
opening on Helbec mountain at one extremity, and
Wildbore at the other. There was once a fine market
place, 70 yards wide, and near 100 long, but by some strange
inattention to publick utility, houses have been suffered to
be built on it, and others afterwards to be built before
them. The market is on Monday, and as the stocking
manufacture supplies the principal trade, this traffic is
the first at the market; it generally begins about six and
is over by eight in the morning. Tho' the situation of
Kirkby-Stephen is under bleak and barren mountains,
yet the communication with several of their own dales, and
with Yorkshire, along the river heads, affords a
pretty considerable market; an advantage which
Brough, near Stainmore, has lost for want of
such connection.
Three fairs are also held at this place, one on the first
Thursday after Whitsontide, chiefly to supply
new married persons with household goods and furniture;
another on the 18th of Oct. for cattle; and the
third, which is much superior to the other two, on the
Monday preceding Fastens Even, (or Shrove
Tuesday), called every where in the north Callop
Monday, from an immemorial custom there, of dining that
day on eggs and collops.
The town has no magistrate but a petty constable; the people
in general are hospitable, their manners are plain and open,
their constitution vigorous, and their apprehension quick.
As to the number of inhabitants, I am of opinion that the
number of the licens'd publick houses will give a tolerable
estimate, if the proportion allowed be as one to ten; thus
Kirkby-Stephen has 20, Appleby 29,
Penrith 52, Carlisle near 70, Wigton
23. It will perhaps be necessary to alter this proportion
with respect to towns that abound with manufactures; but as
these are easily distinguished, and the licensed houses all
over the kingdom are necessarily known, estimates may be
made without expence, and by a method which, as I remember,
has not been thought of before.
The river Eden, which below Carlisle becomes
the Pontem indignatus Araxes of Virgil, admits
here of all varieties of bridges, even of stepping stones;
and as the whole town, or rather whole county, is one bed of
limestone, we may observe most amazing varieties in the
cradle of the river, wrought by time and the constant force
of a rapid current.
The church of Kirkby-Stephen is low, and the porch
looks like a hole into a hermit's cell; the steeple is
square, about 18 yards high, and has four bells of a
considerable size, but not well proportioned to each other;
the oldest bears date 1631, and the newest, which is also
much the largest, 1749; the carpenter that new fram'd them
when this was put up, having made his bargain for the old
frame, it happened that as he was throwing down the last
piece, a nail which he had not perceived caught hold of his
cloaths, and the piece of timber being heavy, drew him after
it, from a window being 15 yards high, and dash'd his brains
out against some of the pieces he had thrown out before; an
accident which was the more regretted as it happened on a
Saturday night, when the man had just compleated his
job, and was in haste to return with the money to his wife
and family at Appleby.
The steeple is built on limestone rock, and there is a new
geometrical stair case turned round a cylindrical column,
which leads into a decent gallery at the west end of the
church, of good workmanship.
In the east end near the chancel adjoining to the south
wall, is the burying place of the Musgrave family;
the inscription runs round the stone.
Near the middle, betwixt this and the cemetery for the
Wharton family, is the effigy in stone of the famous
Andrew Herclay, earl of Carlisle, who was
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