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Page 27:-
length and loudness, all is still and silent for a few
moments; when the sound returns with astonishing and
redoubled violence down the valley in which How-Town is
situated; so great now is the uproar, that all other
repetitions seem mere whispers, and must be heard in order
to convey any adequate idea to the reader.
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Kailpot Crag
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Not far from this place is Kailpot-Cragg: so called,
from a large, smooth, circular cavity, (much resembling a
pot or boiler,) in the solid blue rock. The boat may go
close to it, as at fourteen yards from the shore there is
twenty-six fathom water, and the face of the rock is nearly
perpendicular. Cavities of this kind are not unfrequent in
rapid torrents subject to frequent floods, or in large falls
of water; and these are occasioned by the rolling of stones,
which are always found in them, ground as if done by an
artist: but here not one of those circumstances takes place,
and on that account this rock may safely be ranked among our
natural curiosities.
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Hallin Hagg
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Next proceed to a little bay in Hallin-Hagg, where
the painter will meet with employment for his pencil in two
most beautiful landscapes. The best of these, in my opinion,
faces Glencoyn, and contains many good objects not crouded
too close together. The side-screens will be Ewe-Cragg, the
rising ground in Gowbarrow Park, and some other less
striking objects on the right hand: on the left: a small
coppice, Sandwich-Dod, Sandwich-Cascade, and Birk-Fell: the
front screen will take in Glencoyn-House, Lyulph's Tower,
and the picturesque ground on which they stand; whilst
Glencoyn Pike, Common-Fell, Catesby [Catsty] Pike, and
Helveylin, succeeding each other in just degrees of
distinctness, close the distances. I formerly shewed this
view to Mr Smith when he was upon one of his painting
expeditions; but a violent thunder-storm coming on,
interrupted his work, and I do not know whether he ever
returned to finish it.
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Lyulph's Tower
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We now proceed higher up the lake, till we are near
Lyulph's Tower; a very handsome edifice, built by the
Earl of Surrey, as a retreat from the noise and bustle of
state, to the enjoyments of rural ease and peace. It
received its name from a tradition, that Liolf, Lyulph, or
Ligwulf, the first owner of this Lake, had a tower here, and
gave his name to the Lake. But this is denied by some, who
assert that Ulpha, or Ulphus, had this honour, and that the
name of Ulswater is merely a contraction of Ulphus-Water. To
me it scarce appears credible that ever this Lake had only
one owner, and of course, that it had its name on some other
account, though perhaps it might be Wolfs-Water, as the deep
woods, and almost inaccessible mountains on the banks of the
Lake, would undoubtedly afford a safe asylum to these
animals.
But to return to the story of Lyulph. I find one of that
name mentioned by Speed, Guthrie, and some other old
historians: He is said, at the time of the Norman Conquest,
to have retreated hither, that he might enjoy more liberty
than he could do in the more southern counties. He lived
here some time in great retirement, till at length, in 1080,
he went upon a visit to Walcher Bishop of Durham. Being a
young man, of exemplary sense and prudence, he was much
caressed by the Bishop, and thus raised the envy and
jealousy of Gilbert, one of the Bishop's chaplains and
kinsmen. Gilbert, fearing that Lyuph might supplant him in
the Bishop's favour, murdered him, and found means to make
his escape: but no sooner was the death of Lyulph known,
than the remembrance of his amiable conduct raised such
indignation in the minds of the people, that the Bishop grew
very apprehensive of the consequences, and loudly disclaimed
all knowledge of the affair. This, however, availed little:
the minds of the people were filled with such a detestation
of all that were any way concerned in the death of their
beloved lord, that, contrary to the customs of even those
barbarous times, they entered the church, whither the Bishop
had fled for sanctuary, and killed him at the very altar.
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Aira Force
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From Lyulph's Tower are several fine prospects; and at the
distance of about 400 yards is a truly astonishing Cataract,
called Airey Force: Here a considerable stream of
water falls near 40 yards perpendicular, with a most
tremendous noise, over a rough
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craggy
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erratum from p.194
for Catesby, read Catsty.
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gazetteer links
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-- "Airey Force" -- Aira Force
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-- "Geordy Neb" -- Geordie's Crag
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-- "Kailpot Cragg" -- Kailpot Crag
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-- "Lyulph's Tower" -- Lyulph's Tower
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-- (station, Hallinhagg)
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-- "Ulswater" -- Ullswater
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