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Nearby text, vol.2 pp.188-200:-
'The lake of Derwent, or Keswick-lake, as it is generally
called, is contained within a circumference of about ten
miles; presenting itself in a circular form, tho in fact it
is rather oblong. It's area is interspersed with four or
five islands; three of which only are of consequence, Lord's
island, Vicar's island, and St. Herbert's island: but none
of them is comparable to the island of Windermere, in point
either of size, or beauty.
'If a painter were desirous of studying the circumference of
the lake from one station, St. Herbert's island is the spot
he should choose; from whence, as from a centre, he might
see it in rotation. I have seena set of drawings taken from
this stand; which were hung round a circular room, and
intended to give a general idea of the boundaries of the
lake. But as no representation could be given of the lake
itself; the idea was lost, and the drawings made but an
awkward appearance.
'Lord's island has it's name from being the place, where
once stood a pleasure-house, belonging to the unfortunate
family of Derwent-water, which took it's title from this
lake. The ancient manor-house stood on Castle-hill above
Keswick; where the antiquarian traces also the vestiges of a
Roman fort. But an heiress of Derwent-water marrying into
the family of the Ratcliffs; the family-seat was removed
from Keswick to Dilston in Northumberland.
'As the boundaries of this lake are more mountainous than
those of Windermere; they, of course afford more romantic
scenery. But tho the whole shore, except the spot where we
stood, is incircled with mountains; they rarely fall
abruptly into the water; which is girt almost round by a
margin of meadow - on the western shores especially. On the
eastern, the mountains appraoch nearer the water; and in
some parts fall perpendicularly into it. But as we stood
viewing the lake from it's northern shores, all these
marginal parts were lost; and the mountains (tho in fact
they describe a circle of twenty miles, which is double the
circumference of the lake) appeared universally to rise from
the water's edge.
'Along it's western shores on the right, they rise smooth
and uniform; and are therefore rather lumpish. The more
removed part of this mountain-line is elegant: but, in some
parts, it is disagreeably broken.
'On the eastern side, the mountains are both grnader, and
more picturesque. The line is pleasing; and is filled with
that variety of objects, broken-ground,- rocks,- and wood,
which being well combined, take from the heaviness of a
mountain; and give it an airy lightness.
'The front-skreen (if we may so call a portion of a circular
form,) is more formidable, than either of the sides. But
it's line is less elegant, than that of the eastern-skreen.
The fall of Lodoar, which adorns that part of the lake, is
an object of no consequence at the distance we now stood.
But in our intended ride we proposed to take a nearer view
of it.
'Of all the lakes in these romantic regions, the lake we are
now examining, seems to be most generally admired. It was
once admirable characterized by an ingenious person, [star]
who, on his first seeing it, cried out, Jere is beauty
indeed - Beauty lying in the lap of Horrour! We do not often
find a happier illustration. Nothing conveys an idea of
beauty more strobgly, than the lake; nor of horrour than the
mountains; and the former lying in the lap of the latter,
expresses in a strong manner the mode of their combination.
The late Dr. Brown, who was a man of taste, and had seen
every part of this country, singled out the scenery of this
lake for it's peculiar beauty. [dagger] And unquestionably
it is, in many places, both beautiful, and romantic;
particluarly along it's eastern, and southern shores: but to
give it pre-eminence may be paying it too high a compliment;
as it would be too'
[footnote/star]
'The late Mr. Avilon, organist of St. Nicholas at Newcastle
upon Tyne.'
[footnote/dagger]
'In a letter to Lord Lyttelton, quoted above.'
text continued:-
'rigourous to make any but a few comparative objections.
'In the first place, it's form, which in appearance is
circular, is less interesting, I think, than the winding
sweep of Windermere, and some other lakes; which losing
themselves in cast reaches, behind some cape or promontory,
add to their other beauties, the varieties of distance, and
perspective. Some people object to this, as touching rather
on the character of the river. but does that injure ir's
beauty? And yet I believe there are very few rivers, which
form such reaches, as those of Windermere.
'To the formality of it's shores may be added the formality
of it's islands. They are round, regular, and similar spots,
as they appear from most points of view; formal in their
situation, as well as in their shape; and of little
advantage to the scene. The islands of Windermere are in
themselves better shaped; more varied; and uniting together,
add beauty, contrast, and a peculiar feature to the whole.
'But among the greatest objections to this lake is the
abrupt, and broken line in several of the mountains, which
compose it's skreens, (especially on the western, and on
part of the southern shore) which is more remarkable, than
on any of the other lakes. We have little of the easy sweep
of a mountain-line: at least the eye is hurt with too many
tops of mountains, which injure the ideas of simplicity, and
grandeur. Great care therefore should be taken in selecting
views of this lake. If there is a littleness even among the
grand ideas of the roiginal, what can we expect from
representations on paper, or canvas? I have seen some views
of this lake, injudiciously chosen, or taken on too
extensive a scale, in which the mountains appear like
hay-cocks.- I would be understood however to speak chiefly
of the appearance, which the lines of these mountains
occasionally make. When we change our point of view, the
mountain-line changes also, and may be beautiful in one
pount, tho it is displeasing in another.
'Having thus taken a view of the whole lake together from
it's northern point, we proceeded on our rout to Borrodale,
skirting the eastern coast along the edge of the water. The
grandest side-skreen, on the left, hung over us; and we
found it as beautifully romantic, and pleasing to the
imagination, when it's rocks, precipices, and woods became a
foreground; as it appeared from the northern point of the
lake, when we examined it in a more removed point of view.
'Nor do these rocky shores recommend themselves to us only
as foregrounds. We found them every where the happiest
situations for obtaining the most picturesque views of the
lake. The inexperienced conductor, shewing you the lake,
carries you to some garish stand, where the eye may range
far and and wide. Abd such a view indeed is well calculated,
as we have just seen, to obtain a general idea of the whole.
But he, who is in quest of the picturesque scenes of the
lake, must travel along the rough side-skreens that adorn
it; and catch it's beauties, as they arise in smaller
portions - it's little bays, and winding shores - it's deep
recesees, and hanging promontories - it's garnished rocks,
and distant mountains. These are, in general, the
picturesque scenes, which it affords.
'Part of this mountain is known by the name of Lady's-rake,
from a tradition, that a young lady of Derwentwater family,
in the time of some public disturbance, escaped a pursuit by
climbing a precipice, which had been thought inaccessible.-
A romantic place seldom wants a romantic story to adorn it.
'Detached from this continent of precipice, if I may so
speak, stands a rocky hill, known by the name of Castellet.
Under the beetling brow of this natural ruin we passed; and
as we viewed it upwards from it's base, it seemed a fabric
of such grandeur, that alone it was sufficient to give
dignity to any scene. We were desried to take particular
notice of it for a reason, which shall afterwards be
mentioned.
'As we proceeded in our rout along the lake, the road grew
wilder, and more romantic. There is not a more tremendous
idea in travelling, than that of riding along the edge of a
precipice, unguarded by any parapet, under impending rocks,
which threaten above; while the surges of a flood, or the
whirlpools of a rapid river, terrify below.
'...
'As we edged the precipices, we every where saw fragments of
rock, and large stones scattered about, which being loosened
by frosts and rains, had fallen from the cliffs above; and
shew the traveller what dangers he has escaped.
'Once we found ourselves in hands more capricious than the
elements. We rode along the edge of a precipice, under a
steep woody rock; when some large stones came rolling from
the top, and rushing through the thickets above us, bounded
across the road, and plunged into the lake. At that instant
we had made a pause to observe some part of the scenery; and
by half a dozen yards escaped mischief. The wind was loud,
and we conceived the stones had been dislodged by it's
violence: but on riding a little farther, we discovered the
real cause. High above our heads, at the summit of the
cliff, sat a group of mountaineer children, amusing
themselves with pushing stones from the top; and watching,
as they plunged into the lake.- Of us they knew nothing, who
were skreened from them by intervening thickets.
'As we approached the head of the lake, we were desired to
turn round, and take a view of Castellet, tha rocky hill,
which had appeared so enormous, as we stood under it. It had
now shrunk into nothing in the midst of that scene of
greatness, which surrounded it. I mention the circumstance,
beacuse in these wild countries, comparison is the only
scale used in the mensuration of mountains: at least it was
the only scale, to which we were ever referred. In countries
garced by a single mountain, the inhabitants may be very
accurate in their investigation of it's height. The altitude
and circumference of the Wreckin, I have no doubt, are
accurately known in Shropshire: biut in a country like this,
where chain is linked to chain, exactness would be endless.
'By this time we had approached the head of the lake; and
could now distinguish the full sound of the fall of Lodoar;
which had before reached our ears, as the wind suffered,
indistinctly in broken notes.
'The water-fall is a noble object, both in itself, and as an
ornament of the lake. It appears more as an object connected
with the lake, as we approach by water. By land, we see it
over a promontory of low ground, which, in some degree,
hides it's grandeur. At the distance of a mile, it begins to
appear with dignity.
'But of whatever advantage the fall of Lodoar may be as a
piece of distant scenery, it's effect is very noble, when
examined on the spot. As a single object, it wants no
accompaniments of offskip; which would rather injure, than
assist it. They would disturb it's simplicity, and repose.
The greatness of it's parts affords scenery enough. Some
instruments please in concert: others we wish to hear alone.
'The stream falls through a chasm between two towering
perpendicular rocks. The intermediate part, broken into
large fragments, forms the rough bed of the cascade. Some of
these fragments stretching out in shelves, hold a depth of
soil sufficient for large trees. Among these broken rocks
the stream finds it's way through a fall of at least an
hundred feet; and in heavy rains, the water is every way
suited to the grandeur of the scene. Rocks and in opposition
can hardly produce a more animated strife. The ground at the
bottom is also very much broken, and over-grown with trees,
and thiskets;amongst which the water is swallowed up into an
abyss; and at length finds it's way, through deep channels,
into the lake. We dismounted, and got as near as we could:
but were not able to approach so near, as to look into the
woody chasm, which receives the fall.
'Having viewed this grand piece of natural ruin, we
proceeded in our rout towards the mountains of Borrodale;
and shaping our course along the southern shores of the
lake, we came to the river Derwent, which is a little to the
west of Lodoar.
'These two rivers, the Lodoar, and the Derwent, furnish the
chief supplies of Derwentwater. But those of the latter are
much ampler. The Lodoar accordingly is lst in the lake:
while the Derwent, first giving it's name to it, retains
it's own to the sea.'
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