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winding stone stair-case, in one corner, to the leads, and at the
angle is a single hexagon watch tower, rising some feet higher,
fitted up in the taste of a modern summer-house, with sash
windows in gilt frames, a stucco cupola, and on the top a vast
gilt eagle, built by Mr. Charteris, the present possessor. He is
the second son of the Earl of Wemyss, brother to the Lord Elcho,
and grandson to Colonel Charteris, whose name he bears.
From the leads of the tower there is a fine view of the country
round, and much wood near the castle. Ingleborough, which I had
seen before distinctly at Lancaster to north-east, was completely
wrapped in clouds, all but its summit; which might have easily
been mistaken for a long black cloud too, fraught with an
approaching storm. Now our road began to mount towards the
Appennine, the trees growing less, and thinner of leaves, till we
came to Ingleton, eighteen miles; it is a pretty village, situate
very high, and yet in a valley, at the foot of that huge monster
of nature, Ingleborough: two torrents cross it, with great stones
rolled along their beds instead of water; and over them are flung
two handsome arches. The nipping air, though the afternoon was
growing very bright, now taught us we were in Craven; the road
was all up and down, though no where very steep: to the left were
mountain tops, to the right a wide valley, all inclosed ground,
and beyond it high hills again. In approaching Settle, the crags
on the left grew nearer to our way, till we ascended Brunton-brow
into a chearful valley (though thin of trees) to Giggleswick, a
village with a small piece of water by its side, covered with
cots: near it a church which belongs also to Settle; and half a
mile farther, having passed the Ribble over a bridge, I arrived
there; it is a small market town standing directly under a rocky
fell; there are not in it above a dozen good-looking houses, the
rest are old and low, with little wooden porticos in front. My
inn pleased me much (though small) for the neatness and civility
of the
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