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Afterwards, the views over the rich plain, and glimpses into
fertile valleys are charming, till the road winds in among
what the oldest guide-books truly call the solemn pastoral
scenes that open after leaving Keskadale. The houses of
Keskadale are the last seen before entering on the ascent of
Newlands Haws. The vale formed by the rapid slope of
mountains that are bare of trees, boggy in parts, and
elsewhere showing marks of winter slides, is wholly unlike
any thing else in the district. Its silence, except for the
bleating of sheep; its ancient folds, down in the hollow,
the length and steepness of the ascent, and the gloom of the
mountain,- Great Robinson, with its tumbling white
cataract,- render this truly "a solemn pastoral scene." At
the head of the vale, it is found not to be shut in. A turn
to the right discloses a new landscape. A descent between
green slopes of the same character leads down directly upon
Buttermere. The opposite side of the hollow is formed by the
mountain Whitelees. The stream at the bottom flows into
Crummock Water; and the four peaks of High Crag, Hayrick,
High Stile, and Red Pike, are ranged in front.
The Lake of Buttermere and Honister Crag must be left for
another day. To-day, the turn is to the right, and not the
left. The traveller may proceed along Crummock Water either
by boat or in his carriage. Or he may leave the horse to
bait at Buttermere while he takes a boat to see Scale Force,
and returns.
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