button to main menu  Martineau's Complete Guide to the English Lakes, 1855

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Page 41:-
  St Mary's Church

At the house, at the top of the pass, (which he has walked up, in mercy to his horses) he leaves the Troutbeck road to the left, and descends rapidly upon Ambleside, which is between three and four miles from the house. On the left, is the valley or ravine of the Stock, whose waters are concealed by wood. The road runs along the slopes of the Scandale Fells. Below, Windermere opens more and more; and at length, the pretty little town of Ambleside appears, nestling at the foot of Wansfell, and the valley of the Rothay opens at the gazer's feet. On the opposite margin of this green recess, and on the skirts of Loughrigg, he sees Fox How, the residence and favourite retirement of the late Dr. Arnold, and now inhabited by his family. Near the pass which opens between Loughrigg and Fairfield, he is told that the residence of Wordsworth may be seen from below. Just under him to the left is the old church; and near the centre of the valley is the new church,- more of a blemish than an adornment, unhappily, from its size and clumsiness, and the bad taste of its architecture. Though placed in a valley, it has a spire,- the appropriate form of churches in a level country; and the spire is of a different color (sic) from the rest of the building; and the east window is remarkably ugly. There have been various reductions of the beauty of the valley within twenty years or so; and this latest is the worst, because the most conspicuous. The old church, though not beautiful, is suitable to the position, and venerable by its ancient aspect. It is abundantly large enough for the place, except for a few weeks in summer: but its burial ground, inclosed by
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button -- Fox How
button -- Ambleside to Kirkstone Pass
button -- Kirkstone to Patterdale
button -- St Anne's Church
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