button to main menu  Lonsdale Magazine, 1820, vol.1 p.29
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Lonsdale Magazine, 1820, vol.1 p.29
them thus to indulge the eye of taste. "From a boat the Lake on each side appears beautifully embayed, and above its shores the land swells into an endless variety of charming elevations, over which are dispersed, as wildly as if scattered from the clouds, trees of every growth and climate."
Our Guide having conducted us very agreeably to the New Inn, and our time allowing us to remain a few days, he leads us round to the principal beauties in the neighbourhood. The first is "a mountain trip rarely equalled," to Lever's Water, encircled on every side but the south by precipitous rocks. Through the opening to the south is a charming view of Coniston Water, over which is seen the river Leven and the sea. "This is a simple pencil outline, makes but a sorry figure, but is uncommonly interesting."
From this romantic spot we are next conducted to Low's Water, a small tarn near the top of the Old Man: thence to the slate quarries, whose "tinkling animation, noisy concussions, and thundering explosions," have long ceased to interest the adjacent cottagers.
Another of our little excursions leads us to Yewdale; the road to which "displays a succession of pretty little water-falls." The principal object of the vale however is Yewdale Cragg, the features of which are peculiar. "Perpendicular rocks of considerable magnitude, topped by purple heath and many-greened mosses, spreading over inclined or horizontal shelves, are succeeded by other perpendicular rocks, which rise in embattled perspective to a vast height: from the rocks and the spaces between the crown of one rock and the base of another, oak, ash, and birch trees, riot in wild abundance, and give from the road one uniformly grand and impressive combination."
Our accomodating Guide next conveys us to Tilberthwaite, a delightful little round of about four or five miles, "scarcely equalled by any other of the same length in the country." From the summit of a hill in the road back to our lodgings at Water-head, we have a prospect where, "in all its pretty bays and mazy windings, is resplendently exhibited the whole circumference of Coniston Water; which, sylvan, soft, and reposed if under the influence of a fine atmosphere, will additionally gratify the eyes of the ravished spectator."
In the next of our mountain rides, Mr. Green conducts us over some high ground into Seathwaite; during this excursion, we have some noble high land prospects to the south, by Broughton, with the fine fertile land which skirts it on every side, screened on the right and left by Black Comb and Kirkby Moor, [ ]aving Duddon Sands and the ocean in the distance. "Such a scene as this, under the influence of any atmosphere free from partial fog or vapour, is fine in the recession of its parts, and the whole in a dry celestial azure truly fascinating." Seathwaite contains a number of fine scenes; but "perhaps the finest part of this vale is between the chapel and the crag: from Gold-rill-crag the beauties of the vale diminish at every step as you advance northward." - "In Seathwaite, untutored nature seems to have held her dominion with a sway more absolute than in any other dale in the country." Goat's Water and Seathwaite Tarn are the objects which excite the greatest interest; having a tone and manner about them which distinguish them from most others.
Having rested awhile, amidst the profusion of mental luxury which the grandeur of the mountains and the mild solitude of the vales around Coniston, so abnndantly (sic) supply, we are accompanied by our intelligent companion to Ambleside; we pass in our way through Hawkshead, where there are several decent inns, and post chaise kept at the red lion. In this journey we are presented with some of the beauties of Esthwaite Water, and some fine mountain views near the road.
Our Author, having taught his readers how to explore the deep recesses of the vales, and to scale the towering summits of the mountains, round the head of Coniston Lake, and provided them with comfortable lodgings at Ambleside, returns to Lancaster to bring up those whose limited time induces them to push forward into the heart of the Lake district by the nearer route of Burton, Milnthorpe, and Kendal. Even in this less interesting access to the Lakes, he points out a number of pleasing objects and delightful views. Leaving the busy manufacturing town of Kendal, we are led through an insipid tract of country till we reach Orrest Head, where "that sudden and extraordinary burst on the
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