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Lonsdale Magazine, 1820, vol.1 p.28
intends to describe; and with which, from his profession as
an artist, he has become perfectly familiar. - And we are
happy to say, that in the present instance our hopes are not
disappointed. - Mr. Green leads his reader from hill to
hill, and from scene to scene, like one who is intimately
acquainted with every avenue to this vast assemblage of the
beautiful and the sublime. Others have merely described the
route which they took themselves, leaving their readers the
choice of either following the same tract which they trod,
or of rambling through this labyrinth of picturesque beauty
without a clue, till they are literally "lost in a multitude
of charms. But Mr. Green imposes no particular route upon
the Tourist; he gives a description of every road to every
place, and of all the views in or near these roads; and
leaves it to the option of his readers to select such as
their own time and other convenience may approve.
The proper season for visiting the Lakes will materially
depend upon the taste of the Tourist. "A monotonous green,"
he says however, "is not pleasant, neither are those burning
tints that immediately precede the falling of the leaf; but
the happy medium between the extremes of cold and hot,
furnishes to the chaste and sober eye, all that it can wish
for. It is about the end of September, that this desirable
combination may generally be expected." Yet he recommends
the Tourist to make his excursions as long as possible, if
he is desirous of enjoying an ample share of that varied
beauty which this aggregation of Lakes and Mountains is so
capable of affording.
Supposing the Tourist already at Lancaster, his access to
the Lakes must either be through Kendal to Bowness,
Ambleside, and Keswick; or across the sands to Ulverston,
the Abbey, and thence to Coniston and Ambleside.
He first describes the route by Ulverston; where he says, he
has "found great good humour, and a much greater quantity of
courtesy and politeness from the inhabitants, than could
reasonably have been expected from a town so remote from the
public roads." From Ulverston to the Abbey is about seven
miles through one of the finest corn countries in the
kingdom. The Abbey of St. Mary in Furness, was founded by
Stephen, Earl of Mortaign and Boulogne, afterwards King of
England, in A.D. 1127. The monks were of the order of
Savigny, and their dress was grey cloth; but on receiving
St. Bernard's form they changed from grey to white, and
became Cistercians, and such they remained till the
dissolution of monasteries under Henry VIII, in 1537, when
the annual income of the Abbey was valued at £946. 2.
10. - an great sum in those days.
"The writer has always surveyed these venerable ruins with
sensations of unbounded delight. While yet a boy, though he
had not the hand to execute, he had the mind to feel those
solemn pleasures which result from the contemplation of the
beautiful works of art, when aided by all that is lovely in
nature. These ruins, though fine, are perhaps less so than
when less delapidated. The trees, which are chiefly oak,
ash, and sycamore, are grand and massive, and happily spread
over the horizontal surface of the dell; whence they ascend
to the summits of the surrounding heights in majestic
combinations. Art can hardly wish for a happier union of
materials - compositions arrest the eye at every step, and
wandering from point to point, the artist is lost in wonder
and confounded by variety."
After traversing the fertile district of Plain Furness with
our accomplished Guide, and visiting every object
interesting to the antiquary or the amateur, we bid adieu to
the clean streets and white houses of Ulverston, and proceed
by Penny-bridge to Coniston Lake. In our journey up the
eastern margin of the water, Mr. Green says, "The Coniston
mountains are here in full glory, and, though subject to
many changes in a progress from the foot to the head of the
Lake, generally display themselves into lines of
extraordinary beauty; but in this progress there are certain
limits, within which these mountains exhibit distinct
characters, and compose better, not only with each other,
but the materials arranged between them and the eye; of
these one is between Nibthwaite and about a mile and a half
northward - the second between Coniston Bank and half a mile
to the south - and the third between Bank Ground and the
head of the Lake."
The New Inn at Coniston Water head, affords good
accomodation for travellers. Boats may be obtained here for
aquatic excursions, which ought not to be neglected by those
whose time will allow
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