button to main menu  Lonsdale Magazine, 1820, vol.1 p.28

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Lonsdale Magazine, 1820, vol.1 p.28
intends to describe; and with which, from his profession as an artist, he has become perfectly familiar. - And we are happy to say, that in the present instance our hopes are not disappointed. - Mr. Green leads his reader from hill to hill, and from scene to scene, like one who is intimately acquainted with every avenue to this vast assemblage of the beautiful and the sublime. Others have merely described the route which they took themselves, leaving their readers the choice of either following the same tract which they trod, or of rambling through this labyrinth of picturesque beauty without a clue, till they are literally "lost in a multitude of charms. But Mr. Green imposes no particular route upon the Tourist; he gives a description of every road to every place, and of all the views in or near these roads; and leaves it to the option of his readers to select such as their own time and other convenience may approve.
The proper season for visiting the Lakes will materially depend upon the taste of the Tourist. "A monotonous green," he says however, "is not pleasant, neither are those burning tints that immediately precede the falling of the leaf; but the happy medium between the extremes of cold and hot, furnishes to the chaste and sober eye, all that it can wish for. It is about the end of September, that this desirable combination may generally be expected." Yet he recommends the Tourist to make his excursions as long as possible, if he is desirous of enjoying an ample share of that varied beauty which this aggregation of Lakes and Mountains is so capable of affording.
Supposing the Tourist already at Lancaster, his access to the Lakes must either be through Kendal to Bowness, Ambleside, and Keswick; or across the sands to Ulverston, the Abbey, and thence to Coniston and Ambleside.
He first describes the route by Ulverston; where he says, he has "found great good humour, and a much greater quantity of courtesy and politeness from the inhabitants, than could reasonably have been expected from a town so remote from the public roads." From Ulverston to the Abbey is about seven miles through one of the finest corn countries in the kingdom. The Abbey of St. Mary in Furness, was founded by Stephen, Earl of Mortaign and Boulogne, afterwards King of England, in A.D. 1127. The monks were of the order of Savigny, and their dress was grey cloth; but on receiving St. Bernard's form they changed from grey to white, and became Cistercians, and such they remained till the dissolution of monasteries under Henry VIII, in 1537, when the annual income of the Abbey was valued at £946. 2. 10. - an great sum in those days.
"The writer has always surveyed these venerable ruins with sensations of unbounded delight. While yet a boy, though he had not the hand to execute, he had the mind to feel those solemn pleasures which result from the contemplation of the beautiful works of art, when aided by all that is lovely in nature. These ruins, though fine, are perhaps less so than when less delapidated. The trees, which are chiefly oak, ash, and sycamore, are grand and massive, and happily spread over the horizontal surface of the dell; whence they ascend to the summits of the surrounding heights in majestic combinations. Art can hardly wish for a happier union of materials - compositions arrest the eye at every step, and wandering from point to point, the artist is lost in wonder and confounded by variety."
After traversing the fertile district of Plain Furness with our accomplished Guide, and visiting every object interesting to the antiquary or the amateur, we bid adieu to the clean streets and white houses of Ulverston, and proceed by Penny-bridge to Coniston Lake. In our journey up the eastern margin of the water, Mr. Green says, "The Coniston mountains are here in full glory, and, though subject to many changes in a progress from the foot to the head of the Lake, generally display themselves into lines of extraordinary beauty; but in this progress there are certain limits, within which these mountains exhibit distinct characters, and compose better, not only with each other, but the materials arranged between them and the eye; of these one is between Nibthwaite and about a mile and a half northward - the second between Coniston Bank and half a mile to the south - and the third between Bank Ground and the head of the Lake."
The New Inn at Coniston Water head, affords good accomodation for travellers. Boats may be obtained here for aquatic excursions, which ought not to be neglected by those whose time will allow
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