|
Gentleman's Magazine 1900 part 2 p.359
valley, asked us the direction for Borrowdale. He had ridden
up the valley, which ends in Wrynose Pass, and across the
boulder strewn Blea Tarn Moor, but he was concerned at the
sight of Rossett Ghyll, over which he fancied his track lay.
He was, however, much relieved at having only to face the
easier slope of the Stake. We last saw him leading his pony
near the top of the climb.
More than once we have been all night in the mist - and one
such occasion we particularly remember. Though clear when we
started the tops were smothered in clouds, from which a fine
rain descended before we reached the reservoir under Hill
Bell, on our way to Kentmere High Street. Soon after we
commenced the ascent, we were completely enveloped. The
grassy path up which we had hoped to reach Thornthwaite Crag
was lost, but the ascent of the scree required little extra
energy. In about half an hour, during which we spread out to
avoid the stones dislodged by those in front, my attention
was called to a huge face of rock against which our progress
had brought us. I shall not forget that council; in varying
distinctness were eleven faces, some anxious, more reliant,
one or two careless. Behind us was the abrupt rock-ledge
with beards of misty rain crossing along its breast; below,
a great scree which, in stones of all sizes interspersed
with luxuriant parsley fern, shelved down into a great white
blank. When we reached the column on Thornthwaite Crag, it
was apparent that the mist was deep above us, and therefore
no view of sunrise was possible. It was three o'clock, and
very cold; the damp collected on our limbs as we rushed
about at leap-frog; one of our party routed out some
damp-looking timber from the ruins of an old hog-house, so
we decided for a fire. To coax the wood to burn required
unliimited patience, but after long and deft manipulation of
moist paper and matches, a tiny flame came flickering
through the dense curls of smoke. At six o'clock the light
was much better, so we moved for home - except for two who
elected to stay with the fire, which was now blazing
merrily. It was particularly galling to me to hear a day or
two later that a party, while we were shivering on High
Street, had witnessed a magnificent sunrise from Scawfell
Pike. They had climbed into clear weather soon after they
left Eskhause.
The spending of a night by the waterside few people envy the
angler, but in reality no one could wish for a finer
experience than all night on Ullswater. Starting from
Howtown, paddle slowly out into the middle of the lake and
wait for the fish to begin biting, for you must try your
luck at night-fishing, otherwsie your friends will believe
you are thirsting for notoriety. Trout come on the feed
|