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Gentleman's Magazine 1773 pp.265-266
Account of the IRRUPTION of SOLWAY MOSS, Dec. 16, 1772, in a
Letter from Mr. John Walker to the Earl of Bute, and
communicated by his Lordship to the Royal Society *.
(See other Accounts of this Irruption, Vol.xli. xlii.)
MY LORD,
WHEN I was sitting yesterday writing to your Lordship, I
received the honour of yours. I shall, therefore, defer the
account I intended of my expedition last season to the
North, and give the best description I can of the
extraordinary irruption of Solway-Moss, which I went to
visit about a week after it happened. It is not surprizing
that it has every where attracted the attention of the
public: for, though the cause of it is obvious, yet, as far
as I recollect, the alteration it has produced on the face
of the earth is greater than any we have known in Britain
from natural causes since the destruction of Earl Goodwin's
estate. It happened on the 16th of December, when there fell
such a deluge of rain over all the North of England, as has
not been known for at least two hundred years. There was a
very great flood at Moffat; but I think I have seen one or
two greater, and certainly it was not so extraordinary here
as further South.
The Solway-flow contains 1300 acres of very deep and tender
moss, which, before this accident, were impassable, even in
summer, to a foot passenger. It was mostly of the quag kind,
which is a sort of moss covered at top with a turf of heath
and coarse aquatic grass; but is so soft and watery below,
that, if a pole is once thrust through the turf, it can
easily be pushed, though perhaps 15 or 20 feet long, to the
bottom.
If a person ventures on one of these quags, it bends in
waves under his feet, and if the surface breaks, he is in
danger of sinking to the bottom †.
The surface of the flow was at different places between 50
and 80 feet higher than the fine fertile plain that lay
between it and the river Esk. (See the Plate.) About the
middle of the flow, at the place marked A, were the deepest
quags, and there the moss was elevated higher above the
plain than in any other part of the neighbourhood. From this
to the farm called the Gap, upon the plain at C, there was a
broad gully, though not very deep, through which the brook
marked B used to run.
The moss, being quite overcharged with the flood, burst at
these quags about 11 o'clock at night; and, finding a
descent at hand, poured its contents through the gully into
the plain.
It surprized the inhabitants of twelve towns in their beds
‡. Nobody was lost, but many of the people saved
their lives with great difficulty. Next morning thirty five
families were found dispossessed, with the loss of most of
their corn and some cattle §. Some of the houses were
nearly totally covered, and others of them I saw standing in
the moss up to the thatch, the side walls being above 8 feet
high.
In the morning above 200 acres were entirely overwhelmed;
and this body of moss and water, which was of such a
consistency as to move freely continued to spread itself on
all hands for several days. It was come to a stop when I saw
it, and had covered 303 acres, as I was infomed by a
gentleman, who had looked over the plans of the grounds with
Mr. Graham the proprietor: but every fall of rain sets it
again in motion, and it has now overspread above 400 acres.
At F it had run within a musket shot of the post road
leading from Moffat to Carlisle, when I saw it; but it has
now flowed over the road, and reached the Esk. This river,
which was one of the clearest in the world, is now rendered
black as ink, by the mixture of the moss; and no salmon has
since entered into it. A farmer also told me, that, upon
removing the moss, to get at a well which it had covered,
they found all the earth worms lying dead upon the surface
of the ground. The land, that is covered, was all inclosed
with hedges, bore excellent crops of wheat and turneps, and
rented from between 11 and 14 shillings, besides the taxes
and tithes, which amounted to 4 shillings per acre.
I endeavoured to guess at the depth of the moss upon the
plain, by a large thorn which stands in the middle of it,
and which is buried to above the division of the branches.
The farmers told me that it stood upon a rising more that
six feet above the general level of the plain, and that it
was upwards of 9 feet high of clear stem. By this account,
great part of the plain must be covered 15 feet deep with
the moss; and near the farm called Gap, there were some
considerable hollows, where they think the moss, at present,
lies full 30 feet deep. The smallest hedges on the land are
all covered over the top. The houses are not so much buried,
because they stood mostly on the higher parts of the fields;
and, towards the extremities of the moss, I observed it, in
many places, not above three or four feet deep, owing
likewise to the rising of the ground.
The gut at A, through which the moss flowed that covered the
plain, is only about 50 yards wide; and the gully from A to
C is near a quarter of a measured mile long.
The brook B, being stopped up by the moss at E, has now
formed a lake at D.
About 400 acres of the flow, next the place of its
evacuation, appear to have sunk from 5 to 25 feet; and this
subsidence has occasioned great fissures upon those parts of
the moss which refused to sink. These fissures are from 4 to
8 feet wide, and as much in depth. The surface of the flow,
consisting of heath and coarse grass, was torn away in large
pieces, which still lie upon the surface of the new moss
some of them from 20 to 50 feet long; but the greater part
of the surface of the flow remained, and only subsided: the
moss, rendered thin by the flood, running away from under
it.
Looking over Solway Moss at the village of Longtown, where
there is a bridge on the Esk, they formerly saw only the
tops of the trees at Gratney, a house of the Marquis of
Annandale's, 4 miles distant, but now they see them almost
to the ground; and looking over it in another direction,
they now see two farms of Sir William Maxwel's, which were
not before visible: so the ridge of the flow or moss, seems
to have subsided about 25 feet.
Moffat, I am, my Lord, &c. &c. Jan. 30, 1772. JOHN
WALKER.
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* The society has received from other hands several
accounts of this curious and singular phaenomenon; but this,
as one of the latest, being likewise the compleatest, was
thought the most proper to be laid before the public,
especially as on comparison few particulars of any
importance mentioned in the other accounts were found
wanting in this. These few, however, have been collected and
subjoined in the form of notes.
† The surface was always so much of a quagmire, that
in most places it was hardly safe for any thing heavier than
a sportsman to venture upon it, even in the driest of
summers. A great number of Scotchmen, in the army commanded
by Oliver Sinclair, in the time of Henry VIII. lost their
lives in it; and it is said, that some people digging peats
upon it, met with a skeleton of a trooper and his horse, in
compleat armour, not many years ago.
‡ Those who were nearest the place of bursting, were
alarmed with the unusual noise it made; others not till it
had entered their houses, or even, as was the case with
some, not till they found it in their beds.
§ The case of a cow seems singular enough to deserve
a particular mention. She was the only one of eight, in the
same cow-house, that was saved, after having stood sixty
hours up to the neck in mud and water. When she got out she
did not refuse to eat, but water she would not taste, nor
even look at without shewing manifest signs of horror. She
is now reconciled to it, and likely to recover.
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