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The distance from Keswick to Patterdale is nineteen miles;
and from Patterdale to Ambleside ten more; so that the
journey should begin in good time, if the scenery is to be
duly enjoyed. The first part of the road, as far as
Threlkeld, has been abundantly described. It then becomes
wild and bleak, while commanding noble distant views of the
Keswick mountains, and of the saddle-shaped aspect of Old
Blencathra. Mell Fell, the ugliest of hills,- like a tumulus
planted all over with larch, grows larger as the traveller
proceeds, till he finds he is to make a sharp turn to the
right, and pass directly under it. Judging from our own
experience, we should say that this part of the journey is
always broiling hot or bitterly cold. A bleak high-lying
tract it certainly is, where the old monks no doubt suffered
much and often in their expeditions. Their paternosters said
among the perils of Ullswater, and their Ave Marys here are
supposed to have given the names of Patterdale and
Matterdale, which become more interesting as soon as their
origin is known. From Matterdale, the road drops down upon
Gowbarrow Park, already described at p.38. It is a usual
practice to send on the carriage to the Patterdale Inn,
(weather permitting) where the driver will order dinner to
be ready in two hours or so: and then the traveller will
explore the park, and see Ara Force, and walk the remaining
four miles,- enjoying as he goes, the very finest views of
Ullswater.
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