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Gentleman's Magazine 1800 p.21
the heels, with a pike to my hazle-stick, my efforts were
useless: I tumbled twice, and slid bodily down the hill
again. Difficultues increased my ideas of its magnificient
state; bedsides the innate dislike we feel in being
overcome. I changed the mode of attack, and took a sweep by
the left; the rise through which we had in the summer 1792
been wet by splashes from loose stones, and which in the
Ramble called "beau-traps," one of your
correspondents wished for an explanation.
Although the surface was ice, the rough grass and water
oozing through had made it both hollow and rotten. I soon
got over my shoe tops, and up to one knee, and I then felt
myself conquered, gave up the pursuit, and determined to
bear a great disappointment with due meekness; but could not
nevertheless help resting upon my thoughts, and deeply
regretting the fight I had lost.
I had a bad mile and a half of this uneven slippery road,
and night was closing fast. Too wet to care where I trod, I
kept on the margin of Crummack-lake, till I had passed the
head of it; and reached an apology for a bridge, over the
rapid brook that fills the lake: half the hand-rail of the
bridge was forced away, with only a narrow birch-tree and
broken turf in a separation between it and a crooked plank;
I stood considering how I was to get over, and congratulated
myself on being a good swimmer, in case I should be doused
in the attempt. To wait for assistance would have been
useless; the passage was too well known by the natives to be
trusted to, and strangers were never seen at this season of
the year; no house was within call; and I had not seen a
human being for several hours. What could a weary stranger
do? I got a pole, and thumped against the planks to try
their strength; finding they did not give way, and having
fixed upon some oziers I would attempt to seize in case of a
plunge, I first threw my faithful hazle over, mounted
stride, with my shoes in one hand, and coat across my
shoulder: luckily these honest precautions were useless, for
I crept over in safety. After jumping about a little, the
natural consequence of an escape, I became as bold as a
lion; though must frankly confess, there were certain qualms
about me, when at the other side, which were somewhat akin
to fear.
I was all hurry to reach the village of Buttermere,
and made up to the public-house, in which I was received by
the chief object of this Ramble; and was given to understand
I might have a bed, but should be much disturbed, as they
were going to have an annual dance, for the benefit of one
Askew, a blind fiddler of Whitehaven.
Nothing could more delight me than this information,
because, amidst the life and unaffected mazes of a rustic
dance, an observer can look deeply into the hearts of the
happy throng.
This Askew, bye the bye, is not only a great favourite with
the Cumberland lads and lasses, but has much more musical
skill than inspires the itinerants of his profession; and
much more humour in playing, than many who have the
advantage of eyes to lead them by. And though he does not
come up to old blind Metcalfe, of Harrogate, who has
made so many roads and built so many bridges, like him he
can find his way every where; and can actually go (where
there are paths) over these tremendous mountains unattended.
"His staff," he says, is "his friend, and his God
his guide." I found him at dinner, having just arrived;
and I mellowed his meat with some sound beer. I was no
sooner seated in a two-armed chair, but the daughter of the
house, seeing the dirty condition of my legs, brought me ere
I asked some warm water, and her old father's shoes and
stockings: as this unaffected kindness was performing about
me, how true to my heart it was to find,
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