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day, held a merry conversation with a large party of fair
ones, who were returning home from a groaning, - then went
quietly to bed, and rested untill nine in the morning. When
we came to Kendal, 16 miles further, we enquired
after Windermere-lake, we soon procured a guide, then
quitted the high-road, and rode 12 miles over some of the
wildest hills in Great-Britain. We came upon a high
promontory that gave us at once a full view of the bright
lake; which, spreading itself under us, in the midst of the
mountains, presented one of the most glorious appearances
that ever struck the eye of a traveller with transport. It
measures 11 miles in length, and two in breadth, and is
surrounded, on all sides, with rocks, woods, and inclosures.
In some places the crags appear through the trees hanging
over the water, in other places little valleys are seen
opening between the hills, through which small torrents
empty themselves into the lake; and, in all places, the
border quite round shows itself delicate and beautiful. In
the midst of the lake rise several islands covered with
trees, which greatly adorn the prospect. We stayed here
sometime to contemplate this surprising scene, and then
descended to a small village, but neat, on the verge of the
lake, where we procured nets, hired boats, and spent the day
on this delightful water, either in fishing or rowing about
from island to island, and place to place, exploring the
great variety of beauties which surrounded us on all sides.
There is one island in this lake containing 30 acres, with
an house and garden; as it is the largest, so it is the most
admired: but we visited another, which, though much smaller,
is greatly more romantic; it is covered all over with trees,
and edged all round with rocks; at one end rises a mount to
a very considerable height above water, on the top of which
is a table and seats, cut out of the rock, agreeably shaded
with trees. From this enchanting spot we command a large
part of the lake; which, together with the country that
incloses it, yields a prospect surpassing all that ever
attracted my observation. Powis-castle (See
p.357.) does not exhibit a view more amazing, nor winds
more delicate. The transparent waters of the lake extend
themselves many miles before us, round which shade rises
above shade, rock above rock, hill above hill, and mountain
above mountain, even to the clouds, forming the most
stupendous theatre, presenting the most sublime scenes that
human sight can possibly make room for.
I am yours, &c.
(Most of our histories mention that this lake, besides
almost all other British fish, is remarkable for the
Charr, a fish rarely found but in this county: The
Magna Britannia, Nova & Antiqua. Vol.ii. p.1306.
gives us the following particulars: "The charr is
found in but one part of this mere, the pike
destroying them in the other. This fish is about a quarter
of a yard long, and thought to be a sort of golden Alpine
trout. The male, which is called a milling charr,
is the largest, has a red belly, and flesh somewhat white;
the female charr is not so red on the belly, but the
flesh very red, and, when potted, is delicious meat. Of
these great quantities are yearly sent to London from
Kendal and Lancaster. They are caught also in
Keningston mere, which is about five miles long, and
one broad, lying at the foot of Keningston fells,
about five miles distant, tho' not in such plenty, but 'tis
said, that the charr caught there are fairer and more
serviceable than those of Winander mere," - So far
the Magna Britannia, which, together with
Campden, has furnished the pretended Tours
published by some great travellers at home, who, if
they had ever been in the counties they describe, could not
have published such gross falsities.)
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