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in having engaged a guide. Without him, how should we have
known the path from the brook, or have guessed where we
might ford the streams, when the bridges were out of sight?
Two horses, we afterwards heard, were killed on the same
fell in that storm: and we should never have come down, we
were persuaded, if we had been left to wander by ourselves.
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Lamplugh Cross is three miles from Ennerdale Bridge; and
thence the road begins to descend, and for the most part
continues descending for the remaining six miles to Scale
Hill Inn. On leaving the common, from which the Solway and
Scotch mountains are visible, and turning down through a
gate upon Lowes Water, the view of the central mountain
group is again very fine. Lowes Water is one of the
out-lying lakes, and its lower end is tame accordingly: but
it is only a mile long; and the peaks congregate finely
about its head. The circuit of Lowes Water, (seven miles) is
a charming morning's walk. There is a prosperous look about
the homesteads there, and a richness about the meadows which
smacks of the level country, which, in the shape of the Vale
of Lorton, is near at hand. On the road between Lowes Water
and the inn at Scale Hill, the great peaks of the central
group are all visible, from Grassmoor to Great Gable, and
from Scawfell round to Melbreak; while the prominent
Rannerdale Knot projects into Crummock Lake in front; and
Honister Crag peeps over from behind. As the reader knows,
the whole group may be studied from Scale Hill; and to the
utmost advantage from the Station. (p.86.) At Scale Hill Inn
the travellers may close in comfort the third day of their
circuit.
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