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lake; and of these passes there are but two,- the Sty Head
and Mosedale paths. The green and perfect level, to which
the mountains come down with a sheer sweep, is partly
divided off into fields; and a few farm-houses are set down
among the fields, on the bends of the gushing and gurgling
stream. There is a chapel,- the humblest of chapels,- with
eight pews, and three windows in three sides, and a skylight
over the pulpit. There is now a school:- a chapel and a
school and no public house! The schoolmaster is entertained
on "whittlegate" terms: that is, he boards at the
farm-houses in turn. An old man told us that the plan
answers. "He gets them on very well," said he; "and
particularly in the spelling. He thinks that if they can
spell, they can do all the rest." Such are the original
conclusions arrived at in Wastdale Head. It struck us that
the children were dirtier than even in other vales, though
the houses are so clean that you might eat your dinner off
the board or the floor. But the state of children's skin and
hair is owing to superstition, in all these dales; and the
schoolmaster is the one who should cure the evil. A young
lady who kindly undertook to wash and dress the infant of a
sick woman, but who was not experienced in the process,
exclaimed at the end "0 dear! I forgot it's hands and arms.
I must wash them." The mother expressed great horror, and
said that "if the child's arms were washed before it was six
months old, it would be a thief;" and, added she,
pathetically, "I would not like that." The hair and nails
must not be cut for a much longer time, for fear of a like
result.
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