Lonsdale Magazine, 1820, vol.1
p.121
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Lonsdale Magazine, 1820, vol.1 p.121
house even at night." These are a few of the curiosities which Mr. Green describes in the neighbourhood of Keswick. But there are several other places that claim the attention of the Tourist, such as Wast Water, Ennerdale Water, Buttermere, Crummock Water, and Lowes Water. As these lie at a considerable distance, not only from Keswick, but from each other, Mr. Green recommends the visitant to make one long excursion, of a few days, round the whole, if his time will permit. In order to accomplish this agreeable little tour in the most eligible manner, our Guide conducts us first to Newlands; the first sight of which, "is at once beautiful and grand; the beauty arises from this circumstance, namely, that the numerous proprietors are never at the same moment in the same denuding humour." From Newlands we proceed through nature's wildest productions, to Buttermere. The beauties of this lake are seen to the best advantage by one delightful perambulation. "Those who wish to study rocks and headlong waters, will find in wonderful diversity at Sour Millk Gill, which after fretting down the steep mountain is reposed in the waters of Buttermere." But the grandest object about Buttermere, and one of the finest in the whole circle of the lakes is Scale Force. "After many dry days," says Mr. Green, "Scale Force suggests the idea of a white ribbon stretched upon a piece of black velvet. In such a season, a visit through the awful chasm (one hundred yards in length) towards the foot of the fall, will not only please the eye, but the ear: for, while the one is enchanted with the spectacle, the other, with the responses produced by it, is charmed with a 'concord of sweet sounds,' altogether 'most musical most melancholy.' The walls of this extraordinary excavation are in some pleaces perpendicular, in others, overhanging. Dun and gloomy, they serve as foils to the most lively and verdant ferns, grass, and mosses, and to the trees, which, growing from their chinks, and putting forth their branches, do but dimly shew the day light through the pendant foliage." A little to the North West, we meet with Crummock Water, which is surrounded with grand and lofty hills. In some pleaces may be seen "the two lakes of Crummock and Buttermere divided by the divinely wooded and fertile bottom, so strongly in contrast with the rugged and majestic mountains with which it is environed. Like the Castle of a race of giants, Fleethwith, with the embattled Honister at its side, in a stately distance, and flanked by the depending sides of High style, and the neighbouring uplands, and on the east by Robinson, is a composition displaying a singular mixture if (sic) sublimity and beauty." In other places we have appalling views of overhanging and precipitous rocks, as wild and rugged as melancholy itself could wish for." Connected with this lake, a little northward we arrive at Lowes Water, much smaller than the others, but not destitute of interest. It is encompassed by a circle of wild and pleasing scenery, "extraordinary in its combination, and in its parts luxuriant and grand: from the sepctator to the lake, the eye is cheered with fields of the richest pasturage; over which acident has scattered woods and trees, in a disorderly wildness, worthy of imitation." Among this wilderness of mountains, through which our Guide is conducting us, we soon arrive at the beautiful lake and vale of Ennerdale; a place containing so happy a mixture of the lovely and the grand, that the Tourist scarcely feels a wish to proceed farther. It is a scene consisting of that "varied choice of beauty," says our author, "so rarely to be met with amongst these northern wilds: never, where the busy hand of the extensive agriculturist has been at work. The divine spot has hitherto escaped the unhallowed hands of lucre; a spot that, while triflingly withholding from the Bank of England, contributes largely to the bank of taste. What a strange policy, to deduct from the pleasure of thousands, ideally only, to gratify a solitary individual." About two miles from the outlet of Ennerdale Water, there is a succession of rugged water-falls, and "the steady and undaunted pedestrian, if gifted with stamina and enthisiasm, in equal proportions, surmounting every difficulty, will here probably find himself rewarded for his labours." Journeying forward in our circuit we pass the secluded vale of Gillerthwaite; such a romantic spot as our readers in |
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