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Gentleman's Magazine 1851 part 2 p.504
[anti]quity, it is fortunate for the honour of our country,
that Housesteads is now the property of the enlightened
owner of Chesters, who fully appreciates its historical
worth. The area of the station contains about five acres. It
is situated upon elevated ground, bounded on the north by
the great wall; on the east by a ravine, through which runs
a stream; and on the south by a valley and a ridge, where
was found an altar dedicated to Jupiter by the first cohort
of the Tungrians, and the celebrated Mithraic cave. The
walls are in a good state of preservation, from nine to
sixteen courses of the facing-stones yet remaining. Like
most, if not all, of the wall stations, they shew no traces
of having been flanked with towers, and they are constructed
wholly of stone without the bonding courses of tiles so
common in the castra in the south of England. The gateways
have double entrances, and are built of massives stones and
flanked with guard-rooms. That on the western side, at the
period of our visit, was being further and carefully
excavated. It presented the appearance of having been
hastily walled up or barricaded for the purppose of defence.
As the entrances were defended with double doors of great
strength, this inner wall was probably added after their
destruction, but when and under what circumstances it is
impossible to determine. Its speaks forcibly, however, of
invasion, and of battles lost and won, such as the lower
barrier must often have witnessesed in the days of Rome's
decline and fall. The guard-chambers are well preserved; on
the side wall of one of them is a phallus cut in the stone;
the effluvium from animal matter with which those rooms were
filled is still oppressively strong. It is probable that the
station was occupied after the departure of the Romans, and
the guard-rooms used as receptacles for refuse of all kinds.
It is very easy to trace the course of the streets running
from east to west and from north to south, and the remains
of buildings cover the entire area. What these may be, and
what they may contain, it is useless to speculate on; the
pickaxe and spade are the only keys that can unlock the
buried treasures. One Roman house has however survived the
general overthrow; the external walls remain probably almost
to their original altitude, and the foundations of the
internal ones are distinct. The preservation of this rare
extant example of a Roman house may be attributed to its
having been found useful as a sheepfold - a purpose it has
apparently been applied to for centuries.
Leaving Housesteads we turned towards the south to visit
Chester-Holme, the site of Vindolanda, situated on the
ancient military road, at a considerable distance from the
wall. A Roman mile-stone is yet standing by the side of the
road, and numerous inscriptions and sculptured stones are
preserved in the house belonging to the late Rev. A. Hedley,
who made considerable researches in the station, and
collected numerous objects of antiquity, all of which,
except the inscribed stones, are now dispersed and probably
lost. The cottage inhabited by Mr. Hedley, its offices and
out-houses, are all built of stones taken from the station.
Many of them have belonged to edifices of importance, and
these are carefully walled up, and saved at least from any
immediate danger. Inscriptions found here mention the fourth
cohort of the Gauls, corresponding as in other instances
with the order of the Notitia.
As inns are but seldom to be met with in the wall district,
it is important for the traveller to know that one called
the "Twice Brewed," about two miles from Chester-Holme, on
the roadside, affords good though homely accommodation. He
will derive additional gratification in knowing that here
Hutton took shelter in company with fifteen carriers, and
gathered some laughable incidents for his amusing if not
very antiquarian History of the Roman Wall. "A more dreary
country," writes the octogenarian pedestrian as he
approached the "Twice Brewed," "than this in which I now am,
can scarcely be conceived. I do not wonder it shocked
Camden. The country itself would frighten him, without the
troopers." Dreary the country doubtless is, but it is not
the dreariness of monotony, or of richer tracts of land
without historical associations. The wall now exhibits a
succession of
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