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CHAP. III.
Road to Hawkshead, -- Town of Hawkshead, -- Account of
several small Lakes, -- Aske's Rebellion, -- Proclamation at
Hawkshead, -- Grathwaite, Gentlemens Seats there, -- Stott
Park, -- Newby Bridge, -- Return to Ambleside by land, -- or
to Penrith.
HAVING viewed the high end of this Lake, and mentioned the
antiquities, it remains with the travellers to determine
whether they view the other parts or not; it affords less
variety; and they may, if they choose, take a turn towards
Hawk's-head, and see Coniston Lake. I have not surveyed it
with any instrument, so will not pretend to say much about
its dimensions: I shall, therefore, only observe, that it is
not without its beauties; and that it is about six miles
long, less than half a mile in breadth, but is surrounded
with woods, meadows, and mountains. It is no ways remarkably
beautiful, but affords, like the others, a great variety of
landscape scenes; the house of Mr Knott, in a grove of tall
wood near the high-end of it, affords the artist several
views, which are heightened by the white cottages in the
neighbourhood; none, however, are very striking. Mr West,
p.52, says, "It will be allowed, that the views on this Lake
are beautiful and picturesque, yet they please more than
surprise. The hills that immediately inclose the Lake are
ornamental, but humble; the mountains at the head of the
Lake are great, noble, and sublime, without any thing that
is horrid or terrible. They are bold and steep, without the
projecting precipices, the over-hanging rock, or
perpendicular cliff. The hanging woods, waving inclosures,
and airy scites, are elegant, beautiful, and picturesque;
and the whole may be seen with ease and pleasure. In a fine
morning, there is not a more pleasant rural ride; and then
the beauties of the Lake are seen to the most advantage: in
the afternoon, if the sun shines, much of the effect is lost
by the change of light; and such as visit it from the north
lose all the charms arising from the swell of the mountains,
by turning their backs upon them."
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From Ambleside, towards Hawkshead and Coniston
we pass through Clappersgate, where is the principal
Quay for the slate, charcoal, &c. which is navigated
down the Lake, and then having crossed the bridge, we enter
Lancashire. Close to the end of the bridge, (see
plate X.) is Brathay, the seat of George Law, Esq; a
delightful place, situated at the high-end of a meadow
almost as smooth as a bowling-green, with the river
half-surrounding it; and adjoining to it is a vast quantity
of wood, growing upon uneven rocky ground. The house is a
modern building, and the gardens laid out in rural taste;
the present owner lately purchased the estate from the
trustees of the late Gawen Brathwaite, Esq; for a summer
seat, so that the repairs and improvements were but in their
infancy when I visited it. We next pass a little inn called
the Pull; the sign is so much defaced that no person
can tell what it hath been; somebody, however, hath put
under it,
"What this sign is none can tell,
But here's good beer and ale to sell."
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