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Carriages may be left at Nether Beck Bridge, if the party
think proper to proceed on foot to Over Beck, where
Yew-barrow assumes its best form; and from thence to the
head of the lake, or to Wastdale Head, just at the will of
the tourist.
Speaking of Wastdale Head, it may be necessary to observe
that the worthy inhabitants of that at once hospitable and
inhospitable region, occasionally accommodate the weary
traveller with lodging, and with food and raiment too, from
their kine and fleecy stores; for which, however, (with the
Swiss minister on the like occasion) they will accept a
gratuity; and, who would not offer it with thanks for such
hospitality, particularly when conferred with a politeness
that would little be expected by a southern Englishman.
The public house in Nether Wastdale has one spare bed, and
its neighbours can furnish more if wanted, an
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accommodation very desirable to such as laying aside all
fastidious feeling, will, for their alamodes, their
fricandos, and their daubs, content themselves with hung
beef, with bacon and eggs, and with old Jamaica rum; for of
European liquors (unless it be bad ale) the house only
affords that wholesomer beverage, milk and water.
From Nether Wastdale pass through Gosforth to Calder Bridge,
near which there are some beautiful remains of an abbey,
well worth the attention of the antiquary and the artist;
and for those who have a better taste for bread than stones,
there are two decent inns near the bridge. Calder Bridge is
only four miles from Egremont, from which return by
Ennerdale, Lampleugh, Lowes Water, Scale Hill, and Keswick
to Ambleside; but, a better road from Egremont to Keswick,
though not so pleasant to the eye, is by Whitehaven and
Cockermouth.
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