Transcription of William Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 Lakes Guides Norgate, Martin & MN: 9.5.2008 last edit: 6.6.2011 Transcription of Britannia by William Camden, translated and edited by Richard Gough, published by T Payne, and Son and by G G J and J Robinson, London, 1789. (intro) Transcription of William Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 This transcription and notes are from Britannia by William Camden, translated and edited from the 6th edn 1607 in Latin and with additions, by Richard Gough, published by T Payne, and Son, Castle Street, St Martin's, and by G G J and J Robinson, Paternoster Row, London, 1789. The copy used is in the Map Collection of Hampshire CC Museums Service, item HMCMS:FA1999.5. source type: LakesSrc & Camden 1789 Only pages relevant to Westmorland, Cumberland etc, are transcribed; that is - part of the chapter for Lancashire ie North of the Sands, all of Westmorland and Cumberland, and part of The Wall. These places lie in the area of the Brigantes. 'Additions' `Each county section begins with the translated text of William Camden, and is followed by additions made by Richard Gough. Footnotes Richard Gough gives many footnote references. These have not been traced or commented upon; this transcription makes the text accessible, but has no pretension to be a scholarly appraisal. (intro 2) Transcription Deciding how to arrange a transcription in 'records' which are destined to become html pages is not always easy. The William Camden/Richard Gough text is reasonably well structured in sections with regular use of marginal guides. To match previous transcriptions this transcript is made page by page, ignoring the problems that a section or sentence might be split across page breaks. Somewhen, the text, at present in MODES records, will migrate to xml. At this change the Text Encoding Initiative (TEI) will be considered, though that methodology is biased towards academic study of 'Literature' rather than everyday text. TEI would mark up the whole of the Camden text as one document, the particular arrangement into pages for an edition treated as a subsidiary feature. I need to have smaller units as records, which will become html pages. The book here is being treated as an object in its own right, each page an item, rather than a text which is only incidentally presented in a book. Some of the exact typesetting has been ignored, though italics and some unusual characters are indicated using html markup. Hyphenation across lines has been removed, judging as well as I am able to retain the hyphen where it likely belongs, comparing with the same word elsewhere in the text if possible. A word split across pages is left that way, but the beginning part of the word is added as inferred data to its continuation on the following page. Catchwords have been recorded. Peculiarities of spelling and grammar are preserved; they might be confirmed by '(sic)', but not very often: I have typed and have proof read as accurately as I can. Notice the interesting method of referencing footnotes by superscript letters in the text running from a..z, across several pages, then starting at a again. Also notice that even if a footnote letter is given in the text and given at the foot of the page, there is not always text in the footnote. A separate set of footnotes, intermingled, are numbered. These are Richard Gough's own additions. (Also see OFR file TRANS01.rul under Topics) Scripts This edition of William Camden's work has material in Greek and a sort of Anglo Saxon font. There are Unicode entities to encode some of this, the Greek successfully, the Anglo Saxon less so; they appear as obscure numerical codes in MODESforWindows but in theory would appear as the appropriate character in MODESxml. Unfortunately not all the characters are supported by the default set of fonts supplied with most people's computers, and many would remain as obscure number codes, or cause errors in xml. When transferred to html pages many would not be decoded properly, either because html readers do not read them, or the character set is not available on the machine being used. Greek characters seem to work satisfactorily, and will be transcribed in Unicode. A software tool called Babel can help this process. The Anglo Saxon stuff is less common Unicode and will usually not be used, instead a transliteration into ordinary Latin script will be made, the fact noted by the text plus a comment being within square brackets, eg:- [Loncasterscyre - Anglo Saxon] Note that the use of the ampersand (&) in transcribed text causes no problems in MODESfor Windows as there is no intention to interpret them as keyword separators. But, they are necessary in Camden's marginals. These marginals must also be treated as transcriptions, and not used by keyword analysis. (intro 3) Text Indexing Keywords for indexing the text have been recorded, as well as I am able: mostly using today's placenames rather than the text's version; recognising unnamed places if possible; using locality type terms if nothing else is possible, indexing objects and topics if useful. Thus, I have tried to interpret and understand the text to make the indexing helpful and comprehensible in today's world; a basic rule is 'would you want this page if you were searching with this keyword?' The placename spellings of the text are put into the Old Cumbria Gazetteer, where all sorts of spellings are indexed. While places have been identified with modern placename where possible, no such rationalisation has been attempted with personal names. No attempt has been made to deal with synonymy of species names; what is found is what is used in indexing. Gazetteer Extracts Chunks of text relevant to each place are extracted and gathered together, and loaded into the record for the place in the Old Cumbria Gazetteer. This is much easier to use for a place than searching through pages in the history book; you can go to the original text and read it all in context of this and other texts and illustrations, if you wish. The gazetteer is arranged using standard placename spellings, today's version of the placename, but is indexed on all sorts of spellings, and by other place data. Not all keywords allocated to the text will prompt a gazetteer entry. Some places in the text will be unidentifiable some keywords are for other topics than places. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (fpc) Frontispiece Frontispiece:- CAM2CM.jpg Portrait of William Camden, uncoloured engraving, drawn by Loder after a painting by Marcus Gherrardis, engraved by James Basire, 1789. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (i) Title Page BRITANNIA: OR A CHOROGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE FLOURISHING KINGDOMS OF ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, AND IRELAND, AND THE ISLANDS ADJACENT; FROM THE EARLIEST ANTIQUITY. BY WILLIAM CAMDEN. TRANSLATED FROM THE EDITION PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR IN MDCVII. ENLARGED BY THE LATEST DISCOVERIES, BY RICHARD GOUGH, F.A.&R.SS. IN THREE VOLUMES. ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS, AND OTHER COPPER-PLATES VOLUME THE THIRD. {marginal = title; author; editor; publisher} LONDON: PRINTED BY JOHN NICHOLS, FOR T. PAYNE AND SON, CASTLE-STREET, ST. MARTIN'S; AND G. G. J. AND J. ROBINSON, PATER-NOSTER-ROW. MDCCLXXXIX. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (1) Brigantes BRIGANTES. {marginal = Brigae, Brigantes [ ] / Brigantes / tribal name; Romans} BRITAIN, which hitherto has run out into several very large points towards Germany one way and towards Ireland the other, now withdraws itself as if it feared the violence of the ocean, and contracts the land into narrower compass. The coasts which now run on north strait to Scotland are not above 100 miles asunder. Almost all this part was in the flourishing times of Britain occupied by the BRIGANTES. Ptolemy says they inhabited the country from the eastern to the western sea. This was the most powerful and populous nation, most celebrated by the best writers, all of whom call them Brigantes, except Stephanus de Urbibus, who calls them Brigae, but the article in him relating to them ends abruptly in all the copies. If I should derive these Brigantes from Brigae, which among the antient Spaniards signified a city, I should not think it satisfactory, as Strabo [a] says it is a Spanish word. If with Gropius I should suppose them so called from the Belgic language Brigantes, q.d. Free hands, I should be charged with putting off his reveries upon persons in their senses. Be it as it may, our Britans at present whenever they see a person acting in a profligate and imprudent manner make use of a common proverb Wharret Brigans, as much as to say he is playing the Brigant. The modern French from their antient language, as it should seem, call such sort of people Brigand, and piratic ships Brigantins [b]. Whether this was the import of the word antiently in the Gaulish or British language I do not take upon me to affirm: but if I remember it right Strabo [c] calls the Brigantes an Alpine nation marauders, and Julius, a young Belgian of daring intrepidity, who considered violence as authority, and virtue an empty name, is surnamed Briganticus [d] in Tacitus [e]. In this ill character our Brigantes seem to have been allied to these other nations, committing such outrages among their neighbours that Antoninus Pius on that account took away the greatest part of their country from them, as we learn from Pausanias [f] who writes thus: "Antoninus Pius took away much territory from the Brigantes in Britain, because they invaded with an armed force and detained Genunia, a part of the country subject to the Romans." I hope none will consider this a reflection on these people, as it would be very inconsistent in me to brand any individual, much less an whole nation, with infamy. For this character in that warlike age, when all nations made right consist in force, was not accounted infamous. "Robbery," says Caesar [g], "is not held disgraceful in Germany, provided it is committed without the territories of each state. They say it serves to exercise their youth, and keep them employed." For a like reason the Paeones, a Greek nation, had their name as from ωαιειν to strike. The Quadi among the Germans and the Chaldeans had their names from their marauding character [h]. As to Florianus del Campo, a Spanish author, affecting to bring our Brigantes from Spain to Ireland [i] and thence into Britain with no other conjecture to support him but that he finds a city named Brigantia in his own country, I fear he misleads himself. For admitting our Brigantes and those in Ireland to have had their name from the same circumstance, I would rather with my very learned friend Thomas Savile suppose that some of the Brigantes and of other British nations after the arrival of the Romans retired to Ireland, some for peace and quiet, others to be out of sight of the Roman tyranny, and others not to lose their own concurrence in their old age that liberty which they received from nature at their birth. That Claudius was the first Roman who attacked our Brigantes and reduced them to his allegiance is intimated by Seneca in the following lines of his Apocolycinthosis [k]: --- ille Britannos Ultra noti littora Ponti & caeruleos Scuta Brigantes, dare Romuleis colla catenis Jussit, & ipsum nova Romanae jura securis Tremere Oceanum --- By him subdued the Roman yoke, The extremest Britans gladly took. Him the blue shield Brigants ador'd When the vast ocean felt his pow'r Restrain'd with laws unknown before, And trembling own'd a Roman Lord. I suppose them, however, not subdued by arms, but rather to have submitted upon conditions, as historians say nothing of what the poet here alludes to. Tacitus [l] says that discords arising among the Brigantes at that 1a -- [blank] 1.b -- See Pasquier Recherches de France, VI. c.40. C. The Brigantes in Geographers are always found in mountainous tracts. Breogant, steep; Brant Brechiniauc mountaineers, as here in Brecknockshire, p.482. Northumberland, p.674. MS. n. G. in the edition 1607. 1.c -- IV. p.206. 1.d -- [blank] 1.e -- See the Scholiast on Juvenal's Castella Brigantum. XIV. 196, where the old Scholiast refers it to the Brigantes of Gaul. 1.f -- Arcad. c.43. 1.g -- B. G. VI. c.23. 1.h -- Reinerus Reineccius. 1.i -- Some copies, however, call those in Ireland Birgantes. C. 1.k -- See the Romans in Britain, Introd. p.xxxiii. 1.l -- Ann.XII. c.32. time Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (2) {marginal = Cartismandua / Cartismandua; Caractacus} time brought back Ostorius who was entring into a new war, and who soon put a stop to them by the execution of a few persons. At this time the Brigantes had a queen of their own Cartismandua, of great power and noble birth, who took and delivered Caratacus up to the Romans. Wealth and prosperity making her despise her husband Venutius, she made his armour-bearer Vellocatus partner of her bed and throne; the introduction of which infamy into the family occasioned a fatal war. The husband had on his side the affections of his subjects, the adulterer only the queen's passion and cruelty to support him. She by her artifices took off the brother and relations of Venutius, who provoked by this disgrace called in allies, and by their assistance and by the revolt of the Brigantes, which soon followed, reduced Cartismandua to extremities. On her applying to the Romans their light troops and cohorts after various engagements extricated her from her difficulties. The kingdom was however left to Venutius, and the management of the war to the Romans [m], who were not able to reduce the Brigantes before the time of Vespasian. Then Petilius Cerealis invaded their kingdom, fought many battles, sometimes bloody ones, and subdued or wasted the greatest part of the Brigantes. But whereas Tacitus says this queen of the Brigantes gave up Caratacus to Claudius, and that that emperor exhibited him in his triumph, it is certainly an antichronism in that excellent author, and some time since noticed as such by Lipsius that perfect master of the spirit of the antient writers. For neither was this Caratacus king of the Silures led in that triumph of Claudius, nor Caratacus son of Cunobeline (for so he is styled in Fasti, though by Dio Catacratus) over whom Aulus Plautius, if not the same year certainly the following, obtained an ovation. But this I leave to the discussion of others having treated of it before. In Hadrian's time when, as Spartian [n] observes, "the Britans could not be kept in obedience to the Romans," our Brigantes also seem to have revolted from the Romans, and raised a rebellion. Had this not been the case there was no reason for Juvenal [o] who wrote then to have thus expressed himself: Dirue Maurorum attegias, castella Brigantum. The tents of Moors and Brigant castles sack. Nor do they seem to have been very quiet afterwards in the reign of Antoninus Pius who dispossessed them of part of their territory for making inroads into Genunia or Guinethia a province in alliance with the Romans, as we before observed. Might I be allowed by our critics who now take extraordinary liberties. I think I could correct two errors in Tacitus relative to the Brigantes. The first is in the 12th book of his Annals [p], where he says Venutius before-mentioned was of the state of the Jugantes; I would read of the Brigantes, which Tacitus himself seems to intimate in the 3d book of his History. The other is in his life of Agricola [q]. The Brigantes under the command of a woman, began to fire the colony, &c, where historical truth obliges us to read the Trinobantes; for he is speaking of queen Boodicia who had nothing to do with the Brigantes, but had stirred up the Trinobantes to revolt, and driven out the colony at Camalodunum or Maldon. {marginal = Northumberland; Deira; Bernicia} The very extensive country inhabited by these people which narrows as it runs, rises in the middle like the Appennines in Italy, with a continued ridge of mountains parting the counties, into which it is now divided. For under them to the east and German ocean lie the county of York and the bishopric of Durham; and to the west Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; all which counties in the infancy of the Saxon government were comprehended in the kingdom of Deira. For the Saxons called these counties the kingdom of Northumberland, dividing it into two parts, calling that Deira or [Deir-land], which lies nearest to us on this side Tine, and Bernicia [r] that which lies further on from the Tine to the Frith of Edenborough [s]; both which parts had for some time kings of their own, but were at last united under one. I must just observe by the way, that whereas in the life of Charlemagne [t] we read, that Eardulph, king of the Northumbrians, i.e. De Irland, being driven from his native country, took refuge with that prince, we must join the two words and read Deirland, and understand it of this kingdom and not of Ireland. 2.m -- Tacit. Hist. III. 45. 2.n -- Vit. Adriani c.5. 2.o -- Sat. XIV. 196. 2.p -- c.40. 2.q -- c.31. 2.r -- Breniac, Briniac. mountainous, by transposition of one letter Bernicii. MS. n. G. 2.s -- Historians differ greatly in their accounts of the precise limits of these two divisions. Usser Primord. p.212. G. 2.t -- P.272. Annal Francor'. in 8o. YORK. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (127) Lancashire, North of the Sands Pages 127-145 are Lancashire. Remember that mostly just matter of interest to The Lakes is transcribed - Lancashire North of the Sands, plus a few places across the border - missing text is indicated by ellipses. LANCASHIRE. {marginal = Lancashire; CAMDEN} I must now direct my progress to another quarter, to the remaining BRIGANTES who settled on the other side of the Mountains towards the western ocean, and first to those of Lancashire, whom I feel some secret reluctance to visit, if they will forgive me the expression. I fear I shall give little satisfaction to myself or my readers here, so little encouragement did I meet with when I surveyed much the greater part of this county, so completely has Time destroyed the original names everywhere. But, that I may not seem to neglect Lancashire, I must attempt the task, not doubting but Providence, which has hitherto favoured me will assist me here. {marginal = County Palatine. See before in Cheshire. / Lancashire, extent; placename, Lancashire} The county of Lancaster, called by the Saxons [Loncasterscyre - Anglo Saxon], vulgarly Lonka-shire, Lankashire, and the County Palatine of Lancaster, it being dignified with the honour of a County Palatine, lies to the west under the hills, which, as I have frequently before observed, run through the middle of England, and divide the counties as arbiters between them respectively. It is so confined by Yorkshire on the east, and the Irish sea on the west, that on the south, towards Cheshire, it spreads to a greater breadth, and then gradually narrows again to the north, where it borders on Westmorland. It is there broken in upon by a bay of the sea, and no small part of it lies on the other side of that bay adjoining to Cumberland. ... ... ... ... Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (131) ... ... ... ... {marginal = New way of making salt. Quicksands. / salt; salt roads} In many places on this coast one sees heaps of sand, on which they pour water till they contract a saltness, which they afterwards boil over turf fires to white salt [o] Here are likewise some quicksands as they are called, so dangerous to travellers, who take the shortest way when the tide is out, that they ought to be particularly careful that they do not suffer ship-wreck at land, as Sidonius [p] expresses it: but particularly about the mouth of the Cocar, where as it were in a land of quicksands stands Cockersand abbey, a house of Cluniacs, formerly founded by Ranulphus de Meschines, but exposed to the violence of the winds between the mouths of the Cocar and Lune or Lone, and having an extensive command of the Irish sea. {marginal = Lune r. Salmon. Lac r. Over Burrow. BREMETONACUM. / Lune, River; Over Burrow; Bremetonacum} This river Lone or Lune rising in Westmoreland hills runs southward between craggy banks and an unequal channel, inriching those who live on it in the summer months with a fine salmon fishery; which fish delighting in clear streams and sandy flats come in shoals to this and other rivers on this coast. As soon as it visits Lancashire the little river Lac unites its waters with it from the east, where now is Over Burrow, a mean country village, which the inhabitants told us was a great city, and occupied large fields between the Lac and Lone, and suffered all the miseries of famine before it surrendered, according to the tradition handed down to them from their forefathers. Certain it is that this place asserts its antiquity by various monuments of antient date, as stones with inscriptions, tesselated pavements, Roman coins, and this new name which points out to us a burgh. It must owe the recovery of the name to others not to me, though I have sought it with unwearied diligence; nor is the reader to expect that I should point out the name of every town in Britain mentioned by Ptolemy, Antoninus, the Notitia, and the classic authors. If, however, I might be allowed to conjecture, I should readily suppose it from the distance from Coccium or Riblechester to be BREMETONACUM, which Hieronymus Surita the Spaniard has justly in his notes on Antoninus distinguished from BREMENTURACUM. {marginal = Thurland c. Kernellare what? (from the Fr. Crenelle.) Hornby c. Baron Mont Eagle. Gunpowder Plot. / Thurland Castle; Hornby Castle; Gunpowder Plot} From this Burgh the river Lone passes by Thurland, a castle of the Tunstalls, built by Thomas Tunstall, knight of the garter, t. Henry IV. when the king had given him leave "to fortify and kernell, i.e. embattle his house:" and Hornby, a noble castle, founded by N. de Mont Begon, and owned by the Harringtons and Stanleys, barons Mont Eagle, descended from Thomas Stanley first earl of Derby [q]. The 3d and last of them William Stanley left Elizabeth his only daughter and heiress wife of Edward Parker lord Morley, mother of William Parker, whom king James invested with his grandfather's title of Mont Eagle, and we and our posterity must acknowledge to have been born for the good of the whole kingdom. For, from an obscure letter privately sent to him, and by him most opportunely produced, the wickedest plot which the most accomplished villainy could contrive, was detected when the kingdom was on the eve of destruction, when certain wretches, under the cursed mask of religion, lodged a great quantity of gunpowder under the parliament-house, and waited to fire it and blow up their king and country in a moment. {marginal = Lancaster. LONGOVICUM. / Lancaster / Longovicum; Romans} The Lone proceeding a few miles further, sees on its south bank the chief town of the county, called more properly by the natives Loncaster, as also by the Scots, who gave it the name of Loncastell from the river Lone. Both the name and the river running by it prove it to be LONGOVICUM, where under the Dux Britaniarum, according to the Notitia, was stationed the Numerus Longovicariorum, who took their name from the place. Though it be at present but thinly peopled, and all the inhabitants farmers (the country about it being cultivated, open, flourishing and not bare of wood,) in proof of its Roman antiquity they sometimes find coins of emperors, especially at the friery. For that is said to be the site of the antient city, which the Scots burnt, after laying waste all before them in a sudden inroad A.D. 1322. From that time they began to build nearer the green hill on the river, on which stands a castle of no great size or antiquity, but handsome and strong: and by it on the same hill is the only church where formerly some alien monks had a house [r]. Below this at the beautiful bridge over the Lone on the steep of the hill hangs a piece of very old wall of Roman work, called the Wery wall, from the later British name of this town as it should seem. For the Britans called this town Caer Werid or the Green City, perhaps from that green hill; but this I leave to others. John lord of Moriton and Lancaster, afterwards king of England, "confirmed to his burgesses of Lancaster by charter all the liberties that he had granted to the burgesses of Bristol;" and Edward III. a.r. 36, "granted to the mayor and baillifs of the town of Lancaster that the pleas and sessions should be holden no where else." Lancaster stands in N. latitude 54�B0; 5′ and in W longitude 20° 48′. {marginal = Forness Forness fels. Carthmell. / sands; Furness; Cartmel} While I was looking round from this hill for the mouth of the Lone which empties itself not much below, Forness, the other part of this county, almost torn off by the sea, presented itself to my view. For the shore here running out a great way to the west, the sea, as if enraged at it, lashes it more furiously, and, in high tides. has even devoured the shore, and made three large bays, viz. Kentsand, into which the river Ken empties itself, Levensand and Duddensand, between which the land projects in such a manner that it has its name thence, Foreness and Foreland signifying the same with us as Promontorium anterius in Latin. This whole tract, except on the coast, rises in high hills and vast piles of rocks called Forness fels, among which the Britans found a secure retreat, trusting to these natural fortresses, though nothing was inaccessible to the victorious Saxons. For we find the Britans settled here 228 years after the arrival of the Saxons, because at that time Egfrid, king of Northumberland, gave St. Cuthbert the land called Carthmell, and all the Britans in it, as is related in his life. It is well known that Carthmell is a part of this tract near Kentsand, and the same name is retained in a little town there, in 131.o -- See Ray's Northern words, p.209. G. and West's Furness, p.191. 131.p -- [blank] 131.q -- and advanced to that title by Henry VIII. H. 131.r -- founded by Roger of Poitiers. H. which Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (132) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = Windermere lake} which William Marescall the elder, earl of Pembroke, built and endowed a priory. If we read with some copies of Ptolemy SETANTIORUM λιμεν and not SETANTIORUM λνμεν I would venture to affirm that these Britans were named SETANTII. For among these hills is the largest lake in England, called Winander mere, Saxon [WinBF;adre-mer - Anglo Saxon], probably from its windings on a bed of almost one stone continued for near ten miles with crooked banks, and, according to the reports of the inhabitants of an immense depth, abounding with a species of fish peculiar to itself, called by the people thereabouts chare. It has a small village of its own name on it, where A.D. 792, Eathred king of Northumberland slew the sons of king Elfwold, whom he had forced from York to establish himself on the throne by his own wickedness and their blood [s]. {marginal = Walney island. Pile of Fouldrey. / Walney Island; Piel Castle} Between this lake and the river Dudden runs out the point commonly called Fornesse, to which is opposed for a long way as a kind of breast-work Walney island, divided from it by a narrow channel, the entrance to which is guarded by the Pile of Fouldrey as it is called, built by one of the abbots of Fornesse on a rock in the midst of the sea 1 Edward III. {marginal = Fornesse abbey. Aldingham. The Harringtons. Ulverston. Lords of Gynes. / Furness Abbey; Aldingham; Ulverston} On the point itself nothing is to be seen but the walls of Fornesse abbey, built A.D. 1127, by Stephen earl of Boulogne, afterwards king of England, in a place formerly called Bekensgill, or rather transferred from Tulket in Andernesse [A;]. Out of the monks of this abbey, and from no other (as they themselves have said) the bishops of the isle of Man, which lies overagainst it, used to be chosen by antient custom: it being as it were the mother of many monasteries in Man and Ireland. More to the east is Aldingham, the antient estate of the family of Harrington, to whom it came from the Flemings by the Cancefelds, and their estate passed by a daughter to William Bonvill [t] in Devonshire [u], and at length by him to the Greys marquisses of Dorset. A little higher up is Ulverston, memorable for the grant of a moiety of it by Edward III. to John Coupland, a gallant soldier, whom he advanced to the rank of banneret for taking David II. king of Scots prisoner at the battle of Durham. But after his death the same king bestowed it with other estates in this county, and the title of earl of Bedford on Ingelram lord Coucy [x], who had married his daughter Isabell, and whose ancestors had great possessions in England in right of Christiana de Lindesay. ... ... ... ... The rest of Lancashire is not transcribed; until the Additions. 132.[A;] -- Furness register. 132.s -- Hist. of Mailros, p.139. ed. Gale. 132.t -- Somersetshire. Holland. 132.u -- Dugd. Bar. II. 236. 132.x -- Dugdale Bar. I. 760. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (134) {marginal = Lancshire; ADDITIONS} ADDITIONS. {marginal = Lancashire, extent} LANCASHIRE is in length from north to south 80 miles, in breadth from east to west 32, and in circumference above 200, contains 1,150,000 acres, 40,000 houses, 240,000 inhabitants, 6 hundreds, 7 market towns, and but 36 parishes, as Mr. Camden, which is as few or fewer than Rutland, or the little Welsh counties, but these parishes are large and populous, and contain each several chapels. Mr. Pennant says [a], in an excellent survey made in the beginning of James I. there were 60 parishes. At the Domesday survey this county was included in Cheshire and Yorkshire. Leland says Lancastreshire conteineth five litle shires [b]. It was made a county palatine by Edward III. in favour of his fourth son John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, and has a court sitting in the dutchy chamber of Lancaster at Westminster, where a chancellor takes cognizance of all causes concerning its revenue, and a court of chancery [c]. The lower part of the county is wet and unfavourable to sheep, but the hills breed very fine ones. ... ... ... ... Transcription picks up again when places closer to and in Cumbria are mentioned. 134.a -- Voyage to the Hebrides, p.13. 134.b -- VII. 56. 134.c -- Mag. Brit. II. 1272. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (140) ... ... ... ... {marginal = Burrow.} "Borowe, now a village set in Lunesdale, 6 miles beneath the foot of Dentdale, hath been by likelyhood some notable town. The plowmen find there in ering lapides quadratos, and many other strange things much spoken of by the inhabitants there [q]." At Burrow is a handsome seat belonging to Thomas Fenwick, esq. {marginal = BREMETONACAE. Overboro'. / Over Burrow; roman roads; Bremetonacae} All antiquaries agree in placing BREMETONACAE at Overboro'. A Roman road runs from Ribechester north over Long Ridge Fell, appearing green when the rest of the fell is heathy and morassy on both sides, and thence called the Green lane. At the north summit of the ridge it makes a right angle, and runs on to the north side of the hill toward the east, and, after some length, turns gradually to the north pointing towards Overboro'. It enters Yorkshire a little below Dowford bridge, and proceeds in a direct line on the north side of Newton and Slaitburn through Cross a Greet. It is very apparent on the north side of Tatham chapel and runs through Bentham towards Overboro', but the improved country short of the latter has eradicated its remains. By its side between Ribe and Overboro' are several tumuli of stones with urns, and in one were found two copper styles, and in another 200 denarii, mostly of Alexander, Severus, and Gordian [r]. Gale derives Bremetonacae from Bre meinig tan, the hill of stone and fire, and on Ingleborough hill above are traces of a beacon tower [s]. An altar was found here since Horsley's time, inscribed, DEO SAN GON TR EBIV AT TA POSV. which Mr. Rauthmell read, Deo Sancto Mogonti Restituta bonae jam valetudini At ta posuit votum [t]. Mr. Pegge more truly Deo Sangon Trebius Atta posuit [u]. On the other sides an axe and knife and a bird. Earthen paterae and vessels and Druid amulets have also been found here [x], and a coin of Vespasian COS VIII. whence its antiquary dates the foundation of the station to Agricola A.D. 79 [y]. {marginal = Gargrave. / Gargrave} At Gargrave adjoining in Yorkshire is a camp, and a Roman pavement was found [z]. {marginal = Hornby c. LANCASTER / Hornby Castle; Hornby} "At the foot of Lunesdale is Hornby castle longing to the lord Montegle, half a mile from the Lune. Thens it runneth to Lancaster (set on the south side of Lune) corruptly spoken for Lunecastre, 8 miles of, wither it ebbith and flowith. The ruines of old walls about the bridge were only of the suppressid priory. The castle on a hill strongly buildid and well repaired. The new town as they there say buildid hard by yn the descent from the castle, having one parish church, where sometime the priory of monks aliens was put down by king Henry V. and given to Syon abbey. The old wall of the circuit of the priory cometh almost to Lune bridge. Some have therby supposed that it was a piece of wall of the town. But indeed I espied in no place that the town was ever walled. The old town as they say there was almost all burned, and stood partly beyond the black friars. In those parts in the fields and foundations hath ben found 140.q -- Lel. VII. 61. 140.r -- Rauthmell, 19. 23. 140.s -- Ib. 62. 140.t -- P.96. 140.u -- Gent. Mag. Sept. 1759, p.407. 140.x -- Rauthmell, 101, 102. 140.y -- Ib. 110. 140.z -- Ib. 16, 17. "much Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (141) "much Roman coin. The soile about Lancaster is veri famous, plentiful of wood, pasture, meadow, and corn [a]." The town hall is now rebuilding. Dr. Gale and Dr. Hunter place LARGOVICUS at Lanchester c. Durham, without good grounds, for that is GLANNOVENTA [b]. Dr. Leigh (III. 10.) mentions coins and fragments of earthen vessels, with inscriptions Julius Flavius and Regina I. and bones of animals found in a cellar there. {marginal = Alae Augustae. / roman inscription} In digging a cellar here 1772, was found the following inscription, now in the collection of sir Ashton Lever, bart. The stone is four feet on the longest, two feet 10 inches on the shortest side, and two feet six inches wide: DIS MANI BVS L IVL APOL LINARIS [T]REVIE R AN XXX EQ AI [ ] AE AI [ ] I [V ] On sinking the cellars for a large house at the upper part of Church street in this town built 1776 by the rev. Daniel Wilson, on the site of which stood some very old houses formerly used as the judge's lodgings, was discovered, at about six feet below the present surface of the street, supposed a Roman burying-place, as burnt wood, bones and ashes, broken paterae, urns, Roman brick, gutter tiles, coins, horns of animals, &c. were found; also, two fragments of thick wall, at about five yards distant from each other, in a direction from front to back, and seeming continued under Church-street, betwixt which were several large stones, some of them hewn. By this it may be conjectured to have been a vault to deposit the ashes of the dead, and to have fallen in, or been pulled down, as there were found, within the walls, several pieces of urns, an earthen sepulchral lamp entire (the end of the spout where the wick came out was burnt black), broken paterae, burnt bones, ashes, a large human skull, Roman coins, &c. also, at the north-end a well, filled with hewn stones, but not meddled with. There is a descent of about seventy or eighty yards from the back part of the house, to where is thought the river Lon anciently run, but now built upon. The ground on the said back part was levelled a great many yards, equal with the cellar floor; where also were found, from three to six feet deep according to the descent, burnt wood, bones, ashes, broken paterae, urns, other pieces of vessels of different shapes, Roman coins, boars' tusks, nails almost eaten with rust, pieces of lead, brass, &c. The stratum of ashes and bones was from a foot to about five feet thick. It no doubt runs quite under Church street, if not farther, as in digging a drain on the opposite side of Church street, and to the westward of Mr. Wilson's house, at about six feet under the surface, was found the same sort of stratum of ashes, bones, paterae, boars tusks, a small brazen head like a dog's, which by the appearance of the back part of it had been fixed to something; the pedestal and feet part of a small image, which seemed to be made of plaister of Paris or some such matter, and was thought to have been a [ ]lar, with an inscription; pieces of glass of a blueish-green colour, &c. One bottom of a patera had stamped on it CADGATEMA, perhaps the maker's name. These vessels are of a fine brown colour, far superior to the Staffordshire brown ware, elegantly varnished or glazed, some plain, others finely embossed with different sorts of figures, animals, and birds. The urns are of a coarse kind, much like the oil jars; and some of a black colour as if burnt in the fire, some small and some very large; but none entire, being broken into several pieces. Some have large handles. Nothing Roman was found above the burnt strata of ashes, bones, &c. which it may be conjectured was the then surface of the ground; and where the funeral rites were performed the burnt bones and ashes of the persons might be buried under this strata, as they were found in that situation with the pieces of urns. The inscriptions on the coins were none of them perfect, except one of brass, of Marcus Aurelius; and another small one of silver, a fine impression, and in high preservation,of Faustina his wife: on the head side, DIVA FAUSTINA PIA; reverse, a monument, with CONSECRATIO. The burying place is a little to the eastward, and without the wall of the Roman fortification where the garrison was kept, as there now remain several vestiges of the wall, sufficient to evince that it has taken up great part of the hill where the church and castle stands, and part of the upper end of Church-street. About 100 yards to the eastward of Mr. Wilson's new house, on the opposite side of Church-street, on digging a new cellar a few years ago for Mr, Henry Baynes's new house, were found several large hewn stones, and one about six feet under the surface, supposed to be about three ton weight, of which several cellar steps were made; and about a ton weight still remains in its place, under which were found a great many Roman coins of Domitian, Vespasian, &c. It is thought to have been the corner stone of a temple or other public building. There were found in Mr. Wilson's cellar, as also in the drain in Church-street, several stones, thought to have been pieces of small hand mill-stones, of about 13 inches diameter when whole, of a blueish-grey colour, and exceeding hard: they are about three inches thick at the outer edges, and not an inch in the middle [c]. {marginal = priory} Here was a Benedictine priory, founded by Roger earl of Poictiers 1094, valued at £.80. given by Henry V. to Syon [d]. An hospital founded by king John while earl of Moriton and by Henry duke of Lancaster t. Edward III. annexed to Seton priory, Cumberland [e]. A house of Dominican or Black friars, founded by sir Hugh Harrington t. Henry III. [f] What Mr. Camden takes for Roman wall called the Wery wall, is by Leland supposed part of the priory, but Mr. West contends for it being Roman. At Quarmore, near Lancaster,a Roman pottery and a tile with turned-up ledges and bricks stamped with ALESEBVSIA. {marginal = assizes; gaol; Lancaster Castle} The assizes for this county palatine are held in the castle which is entire and is the county gaol. The church stands near it on an eminence. Lancaster is a corporation and borough, and has a market and fair. The town is large and well-built though not regular: it has been much improved by widening and new building several streets, particularly a void place called the Green Air [g] adjoining to the town is now covered with handsome houses, 141.a -- Lel. V. 85. 141.b -- Horsl. 450. 141.c -- Archaeol. V. 98-101. 141.d -- Tan. 229. 141.e -- Ib. 232. 141.f -- Ib. 233. 141.g -- for Green Caer from the old name Caer Werid. West's Guide to the Lakes, p.18. and Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (142) {marginal = Skerton Bridge; Lancaster, quay} and a new bridge built by act of parliament over the river Lune or Lon. It has a considerable trade particularly to the West-Indies, and a fine quay on the river Lune: the river navigable to the bridge for ships of 250 tons. The custom-house is a handsome building. {marginal = MORICAMBE / Morecambe Bay} Mr. Camden speaks of Furness as almost separated from Lancashire by the encroachment of the sea. He might have affirmed that it is no where else connected with any part of the county. Ptolemy's MORICAMBE (sic) is Cartmel bay, perhaps from British Moreb, a haven and Cain white or beautiful, from the white rocks on this coast [h]. A Roman road runs through Furness from Conished to Dalton, near which last place is a ditch and rampart on the east side of the church-yard [i]. Cartmel is the only town near Furness that retains a British name, and Bardsey the only village in it that retains a British sound [k]. {marginal = Furness. / Furness / iron ore} The low or plain part of Furness, which is so called to distinguish it from the woody or mountainous part, produces all sorts of grain, but principally oats, whereof the bread eaten in this country is generally made; and there are found here veins of a very rich iron ore, which is not only melted and wrought here, but great quantities are exported to other parts to mix with poorer ores. {marginal = slate} In the mountainous parts of this country are found quarries of a fine durable blue slate to cover buildings with, which are made use of in many other parts of the kingdom; and here are several cotton-mills lately erected; and if fuel for fire were more plentiful, the trade in this country would much increase; but there being no coals nearer than Wigan or Whitehaven, and the coast duties high, firing is rather scarce, the country people using only turf or peat, and that begins to be more scarce than formerly. Bishop Gibson derives the name of Fourness from the numerous furnaces there antiently, whose rents and services called Bloomsmithy rent are still annually paid. {marginal = sheep; charcoal; forests} In the mosses of Furness much fir is found, but more oak: the trunks in general lie with their heads to the east, the high winds having been from the west [l]. High Furness has ever had great quantities of sheep which browse upon the hollies left in great numbers for them; and produces charcoal for melting iron ore, and oak bark for tanners' use in great abundance. Low Furness was applied to the uses of agriculture [m]. The forests abounded with deer and wild boars, and the legh or scofe or large stags, whose horns are frequently found underground here. {marginal = sands roads; sands guide} The three sands mentioned by Mr. Camden are very dangerous to travellers by the tides and the many quicksands. There is a guide on horseback appointed to Ken or Lancaster sand at £.10. per ann. to Leven at £.6. per ann. out of public revenue, but to Dudden, which are most dangerous, none; and it is no uncommon thing for persons to pass over in parties of 100 at a time like caravans, under the direction of the carriers, who go to or fro every day. The sands are less dangerous than formerly, being more used and better known, and travellers never going without the carriers or guides. {marginal = Plumpton. / Plumpton} Plumpton was famous 500 years ago for its iron mines [n], and much is still found at Whitrigs [o], and other parts of Plain Furness. Mr. Camden in Caernarvonshire had placed the Setantiorum λιμην of Ptolemy on the river Secont near Caernarvon, but allows that other copies remove it further off. Baxter puts it at the mouth of Mersey, Stukeley of Lune, Ward in Horsley and Whitaker of Ribble [p]. {marginal = Cartmell. / Cartmel Priory; Flookburgh} Cartmell was a priory of Austin canons, founded 1188, valued at £.91. [q]. The gate still remains. The large and handsome church was purchased by the parishioners at the dissolution; the choir adorned with curious carving of the passion, by George Preston of this place 1640, who repaired in the antient style [r]. The town is small and has very irregular streets lying in a vale surrounded by high hills. The market which the priory had at Flookborough adjoining is now removed to Cartmel [s]. {marginal = Holker mount. / Holker Hall} Holker mount, once the seat of the Prestons, since the property of the Lowthers, and now of lord George Cavendish, is a large irregular house in a pretty park well wooded [t]. {marginal = Wraysholme. / Wraysholme} Near Wraysholme tower is a brackish medical spring much used for arthritic and cutaneous disorders [u]. {marginal = Ulverston. / Ulverston; shipping} Ulverston, the key and mart of Furness, has a good market, and fits out 70 ships for the coasting trade [x]. The steeple was built by a private person from the ground to the height of the church roof, and was finished by the inhabitants [y]. {marginal = Dalton. / Dalton-in-Furness} Dalton, antiently the principal town, now decayed, though pleasantly situated, has an old castle or tower, lately a gaol for debtors [z], {marginal = Furnes ab. / Furness Abbey} "Furnis abbay up in the mountains [a]," was begun at Tulket in Amounderness 1124, for the monks of Savigni in France, and three years after removed to this valley, then called Bekangesgill or the vale of Nightshade. It was of the Cistercian order, endowed with above £.800. per ann [b]. Some ruins and part of the fosse which surrounded the monastery are still to be seen at Tulket [c]. The remains at Furness breathe that plain simplicity of the Cistercian abbies; the chapter-house was the only piece of elegant Gothic about it, and its roof has lately fallen in. Part of the painted glass from the east window representing the crucifixion, &c. is preserved at Winder mere church in Bowness c. Westmorland. The church (except the north side of the nave), the chapter-house, refectory, &c. remain only unroofed [d]. {marginal = Walney isle / Walney Island; Piel Castle} Walney isle at the extremity of Fourness has been lately improved by spreading sea-sand on the land, and now produces plentiful crops of wheat and other grain. The strong castle of the pile of Foudrey stands on another island at its southern extremity [e]. The murder ascribed to Ethred in Wornvaldremere A.D. 791, is doubted, because he was himself one of king Elfwold's sons [6]. {marginal = Aldingham} Great part of Aldingham parish has been swept away by the tides [f]. 142.h -- West's Hist. of Furness, p.v. 142.i -- Ib. p.ix. 142.k -- Ib. xii. 142.l -- Ib. xliv. 142.m -- Ib. xlv. 142.n -- Ib. xv. 142.o -- Pennant, 26. West, xvii. 142.p -- I. 125. 142.q -- Lel. V. 85. Tan. 231. 142.r -- West, xiv. 261. Penn. 23. 142.s -- West, ib. 142.t -- Penn. 24. 142.u -- West, ib. 142.x -- Ib. xvi. P. 25. 142.y -- Inscription in the tower. 142.z -- West, xviii. 142.a -- Lel. V. 85. 142.b -- Tan. 230. 142.c -- West, 2. 142.d -- Ib. 94. 142.e -- West, xix. Pennant, 27. 142.6 -- G. 142.f -- West, xxi. Gleaston Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (143) {marginal = Gleaston c. / Gleaston Castle} Gleaston castle in this parish, now belonging to lord George Cavendish, has been very large, having four high towers besides many other buildings with thick mud walls. It stands in a fertile vale among rich meadows sheltered from the sea by fruitful hills [g]. In the ruins of this castle was found a brass celt 9 inches long and 5 at its broad end, finely polished and covered with a beautiful patina [h]. Another shaped like it but having a ring and socket was found in Lancaster 1737 [i]. {marginal = Bardsay hall / Bardsea} Bardsay hall, the seat of a family of its name now extinct, and afterwards of lord Molyneux, is an antient building on rock with costly gardens, now belonging to Wilson Braddyll, esq. [k] {marginal = Kirkby Ireleth / Kirkby Ireleth} Kirkby near Ireleth was the seat of the antient family of Kirkby from the Conquest [l], but now belongs to lord John Cavendish. The manor-house, now mostly down, was called Kirkby cross house, from a cross before the door, whose head is said to have been broken off by order of archbishop Sandys who was born at Hawkshead [7]. Ireleth is the place whence the iron ore is now shipped, and its name may be derived from ire iron, and lath a barn, in the country dialect {marginal = Urswick / Urswick} At Urswick was found 1774, a Roman brass vessel on three feet. {marginal = Broughton / Broughton in Furness} Broughton, the seat of a family of that name till forfeited t. Henry VII. by sir Thomas Broughton for joining Lambert Simnel. He is said to have fallen in the battle of Stoke 1487, but others say he escaped to Witherslack in Westmorland, where he lived long undiscovered among his tenants, and was buried there in the chapel since rebuilt at a considerable distance from the old site by dean Borwick 1664 [m]. It belongs now to the Sawreys and has a considerable market for woollen yarn, and a neat square built by the Sawreys. Near this place an handsome bridge was built at the expence of the hundred over the river Duddon, which divides the counties of Lancaster and Cumberland. {marginal = Conishead / Conishead} Conishead, a priory of black canons, founded by Gabriel Pennington t. Henry II. valued at £.97. [n] It was first an hospital founded by William de Lancaster baron of Kendal, the seat of the Sandys, the Doddings, and Braddylls [o]. {marginal = Swartmoor / Swarthmoor; Fox, George} Swartmoor was so called from Martin Swartz, who encamped here with his Germans, who came over with Simnel 1487, at the pile of Foudrey; and here George Fox and his followers first shewed themselves in this county 1652 [p]. {marginal = Coningston / Coniston; Coniston Water} To the north is Coningston manor between Coningston fells, very high mountains, wherein are mines of copper, lead, and slate [q], and Coningston or Thurston water, a lake five miles long and near one broad, whose char are said to be the finest in England; they are fished later than on Windermere, and continue longer in the spring [r]. It has the additional name of Fleming to distinguish it from Monk Coningston on the opposite side of the lake which belonged to Furness abbey. In the reign of Henry III. it came by marriage from the Urswickes to Richard le Fleming of Caernarvon castle, and has been ever since enjoyed by his heirs male, sir Michael le Fleming of Rydal hall, Westmorland, being the present possessor; which last manor came to them by marriage of sir Thomas le Fleming with Isabel one of the daughters and coheirs of sir John de Lancaster of Rydal and Holgil castle in the same county, knt. The chapel was made parochial among divers others in this county by archbishop Sandys. [s] {marginal = Hawekshad. / Hawkshead; Sandys, Archbishop} Hawkshead, the 4th market town in Furness, is built in an odd fashion, the birth-place of archbishop Sandys, who here founded a grammar-school and made the church parochial; in which his father and mother have a tomb [t]. The trade of this place and Coniston is woollen yarn [u]. Inscription over the school-house: Memoriae reverendi D.D. Edwini Sandys, Ebor. olim archiepiscopi scholae hujus fundatoris Daniel Rawlinson civis Londini Graisdalea com' Lanc' oriundus posuit, A.D 1675. Mr. Rawlinson was a considerable benefactor. Inscription on the poor-house at Gallow Barrow near Hawkshead: Rev. Thomas Sandys, curate of St. Martin in the Fields and lecturer at St. James's, London, A.D. 1717, left by his will the interest of 800l. to endow this poor house, maintain and educate as many boys born in Hawkeshead as the interest will admit of, and they are to be taught at the freeschool.- 1749. Subsequent benefactions, George Satterthwaite late of Green End, deceased, 20l. William Dennison, late of Rodger Ground, deceased, 400l. N.B. Some of it lost. From the antient family of Rawlinson of Graisdale descended sir Thomas Rawlinson, lord mayor of London, 1706, who died 1708, leaving eight of 15 children surviving. The eldest son Thomas was a man of learning and a patron of scholars and antiquaries, a great collector of books and MSS. which were sold after his death, 1725. 1733. The 4th son Richard was an eminent antiquary and great benefactor to the University of Oxford, where he had been educated at St. John's college, and was created LL.D. by diploma 1719 F.R. and A.S. and editor of various county histories, and other topographical pieces, compiler of the 'English Topographer, 1720.' 8vo. which suggested the plan of the 'British Topography,' in 2 vols. 4to. He died 1755, age 65, and was buried in a vault under St. Giles' church at Oxford, and his heart in his college chapel. His library of books was sold 1756 in 50 days, and his 20,000 pamphlets in 1757 in 10 days. Christopher Rawlinson, only son of Curwen Rawlinson, of Cark hall, in Cartmell, collaterally related to all the foregoing, was born 1677, educated at Queen's college, Oxford, and eminently distinguished for his application to the Saxon and Northern literature, He published a beautiful edition of Alfred's translation of Boetius de Consolatione 1698, and left a large collection of MSS. among which are many relating to Westmorland and Cumberland. He died 1732, age 55, and was buried in a vault in the north transept of St. Alban's abbey church, where is a beautiful monument to his memory. 143.g -- G. West, xxv. 218. 143.h -- Archaeol. V. 106. 143.i -- Ib. 113. 143.k -- West, xxvii. 143.l -- Ib. 235. 143.7 -- G. 143.m -- G. West, 210. 143.n -- Tan. 231. 143.o -- West, 185. 143.p -- G. Pennant, 28. 143.q -- West, xxxiv. 143.r -- West's Guide to the Lakes, 57. 143.s -- G. West, 219-234. 143.t -- West, xxxv. Pennant, 31. 143.u -- West, xxxviii. "Ther Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (144) {marginal = Windermere lake; char} "Ther is a very great lake or mere, whereof part is under the edge of Furnes felles called Wynermere wath (q. water), wherein a straunge fish called a char, not sene else there in the country as they say [x]." {marginal = Winander mere.} Winander mere is 15 miles long by one broad, 90 feet deep in the middle, in other places 132 feet, and its greatest depth opposite Ecclerigg crag 222 feet [y], the bottom smooth horizontal slate rocks. Before storms it has a current in the opposite direction to that point whence the wind comes. The holm or island in it reckoned to Westmorland contains above 30 acres, and has a good house on it, where sir Christopher Philipson lived 1705 secreted from creditors. Mr. English began a house there which was finished by Miss Curwen, since married to John Christian, esq. {marginal = Char.} The char which abounds in the cold Lapland lakes is found in Winander mere, Llyn Quellyn at the foot of Snowden, and Llynberis, and in certain lakes of Merionethshire and Scotland. In the 2d and 3d of these the copper works have entirely destroyed the fish. The largest and most beautiful are taken in Winandermeer, distinguished into the case, the gelt or baren, and the red char. Some slight variety in these three. The former spawn about Michaelmas, chiefly in the river Brathy, which has a black stoney bottom, and are in highest perfection from May through the summer. The gelt char spawn from January to March, and keep in the smooth sandy parts of the lake, are taken from the end of September to the end of November, and are esteemed more delicate for the table, especially potted. The spawning season of the Westmorland chars agrees nearly with that of the Welsh ones, which from their colour are called torgoch or red belly, the other two being paler. The Snowdon chars are smaller and paler [z]. The division of the counties Lancaster and Westmorland is through the middle of this lake. At the head of the lake, and level with it, not far from Ambleside, is a Roman fort, single ditch, 396 feet by 240 the shortest side next the water, in which have been found Roman antiquities, though its name cannot be ascertained [a]. All the isles or holmes in Winander mere are in Westmorland, and all the fishing belongs to Apelthwaite in Winander mere parish in the said county, and all the tithe fish to the rector thereof, who has a pleasure boat on the lake and a prescription of so much a boat in lieu of the said tithe. The abbot of Furness by gift of William de Lancaster baron of Kendal, had formerly two boats on it [b]. See more of it in Westmoreland. 144.x -- Lel. VII. 63 144.y -- West's Guide to the Lakes, p.59-76. 144.z -- Pennant Zool. 3. 256-261, Tour 1769, p.35. 144.a -- West's Furness, xxxix. See Camden in Westmorland. 144.b -- G. in Westmorland. Rare Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (145) {marginal = Lancashire, plant list / flowers; botany} Rare Plants found in Lancashire. Aira aquatica. Water Hair Grass; in watery places, and banks of rivers. --- montana. Mountain Hair Grass; in sandy dry heaths and pastures. Andromeda polifolia. Marsh Wild Rosemary; on turfy bogs. Asarum Europaeum. Asarabacca; in woods. Athamanta meum. Spignel Mew, or Bawd money; in mountainous pastures. Bartsia viscosa. Marsh Eyebright Cowwheat; in bogs about Latham, near Ormskirk. Blasia pusilla. Dwarf Blasia; on the sides of ditches and rivulets; near Manchester. Brassica Monensis. Small Jagged Yellow Rocket, of the Isle of Man; between Marsh Grange farm and the Isle of Walney. Carex limosa. Brown Carex; on turfy bogs. Chara tomentosa. Brittle Chara; on turfy bogs. Cineraria palustris. Jagged Fleabane; in the ditches about Pillin Moss, plentifully. Cistus hirsutus. Hairy Cistus; on the rocks about Cartmell Wells. Cochlearia Danica. Small Sea Scurvy Grass; in the Isle of Walney. Conserva gelatinosa δ. A variety of Jelly Conserva; in fountains and pure rivers: near Manchester. Echinophora spinosa. Prickly Sampire, or Sea Parsley; at Roosbeck in Low Furness. Eriophorum vaginatum. Hair's Tail Rush; upon the Mosses. Fucus fibrosus. Fibrous Fucus; on the shore. --- filicinus. Fern Fucus; and submarine rocks and stones in the Isle of Walney. --- pedunculatus. Pedunculated Fucus; on submarine rocks and stones: in the Isle of Portland. Galanthus nivalis. Snowdrop; in meadows. Galeopsis tetrahit δ. Nettle Hemp, with a party coloured flower; in sandy corn fields. --- viscosa. Hairy Nettle Hemp; in sandy corn fields. Gentiana Pneumonanthe. Marsh Gentian or Calathian Violet; in wet meadows. Geranium sanguineum γ. Bloody Cranesbill, with a variegated Flower; in a sandy soil near the sea shore in the Isle of Walney. Lathyrus palustris. Marsh Chicklng Vetch; in wet meadows. Lichen ampullaceus. Bladder Lichen; in mountainous pastures called Emmot-pasture near Coln. --- articulatus. Jointed Lichen; on trees near Burnley. --- fahlunensis. Cork Lichen; on rocks and large stones; near Longdale. --- glaucus. Glaucus Lichen; in mountainous pastures called Emmot-pasture near Coln. Lycopodium Selago. Fir Club-moss; on mountainous heaths. Narthesium Ossifragum. Lancashire Asphodel or Bastard English Asphodel; on boggy grounds. Ophrys cordata. Least Tway-blade; upon Pendle hill among the heath. Potamogeton setaceum. Setaceous Pond-weed; on turfy bogs. Polypodium Dryopteris. Branched Polypody; on stones and dry places. Potentilla verna. Spring Cinque-foil; in barren pastures near Preston. Prunus Cerasus β. Wild Heart Cherry-tree or Merry-tree; about Bury and Manchester. --- padus. Bird Cherry; in woods and hedges. Pulmonaria maritima. Sea Bugloss; on sandy sea shores; overagainst Bigger in the Isle of Walney. Rubus chamaemorus. Mountain Bramble or Cloudberry; upon mountainous turfy bogs. Sambucus nigra γ. Elder tree with jagged leaves; in a hedge near Manchester. Sedum anglicum. English Stone-crop; on rocks and stones. Serratula alpina. Mountain Saw-wort; on rocks near Burnley. Stellaria nemorum. Wood Stich-wort; in wet woods aud (sic) hedges. Tragopogon porrifolium. Purple Goat's-beard; on the banks of the river Calder near Whalley. Ulva flavescens. Yellowish Liver-wort; on sea rocks and stones: in the isle of Walney. WESTMOR- Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (147) Westmorland Pages 147-167 are Westmorland. {marginal = Westmorland; CAMDEN} WESTMORLAND. {marginal = [ ] / Westmorland, extent; placename, Westmorland} AT the extremity of Lancashire more to the north is another small tract of the Brigantes, called by Latin writers Westmorlandia, by us Westmoreland, and by some later writers Westmaria [a]; bounded on the west and north by Cumberland, on the east by the counties of York and Durham. It has its name in our language from its lying intirely among high mountains (our Apennines extending themselves still further here in breadth), and for the greater part waste; desart tracts capable of little improvement from cultivation being called in the north of England Mores, and West-more-land meaning nothing more with us than a waste country to the West. Let us therefore banish from the school of venerable antiquity that idle dream about king Marius, whom our sleepy historians fancied to have subdued the Picts, and left his name to this county. {marginal = [ ]; CONCANGIOS. The Forces. (Bors. Brit. Gale MS) Levens. Betham.} The southern part of this county, which is contracted in a narrow space between the river Lone and Winander mere is reckoned very fruitful in the vales, though it has its rough and slippery craggs, and is comprehended under the general name of The Barony of Kendale, or Candale, q.d. the Valley on the Can, a river which runs over rocks through this valley, and gives name to it, on whose western banks is the populous town of Candale [b] or Kirkeby Candale, q.d. the church in the valley on the Can, with two long streets intersecting each other, and eminent for its woollen manufacture, and the industry of its inhabitants, who carry on a great trade in woollen cloth all over England, and esteem it their highest honour that they have had barons and earls of their own. The first of these are descended from Ivo Taleboys, of whose posterity William by leave of Henry II. styled himself William of Lancaster, whose niece [c] and heiress married Gilbert Fitz Roger Fitz Reinfrid, by whose daughters [d] on the death of his son William, the estate passed to Peter Brus second lord of Skelton of that Christian name, and William Lindesay, from whom Ingelram lord of Coucy in France derived his descent by the mother's side as we find in the history of Forness abbey. By a daughter [e] of this Peter Brus, sister and heir of Peter Brus the 3d, this barony came to the Rosses of Werke, and from them this honour devolved by inheritance on the Parrs [f], whose castle overagainst the town is now decaying with age. I find three earls, John duke of Bedford, so created by his brother king Henry V. [g] John [h] duke of Somerset and John de Foix of the illustrious family of Foix in France, whom Henry VI. advanced to this dignity for his faithful services in the French wars [i]; whence it probably comes that some of this family of Foix in France are still called Candale. I know no other claim that Kendal has to antiquity. I once, indeed, imagined that it was the Roman station CONCANGIOS, but time has better informed me. Lower down in the river Can are two falls, down which the water rushes with great noise, one at the little town of Levens, the other more to the south near Betham, which are certain prognostics of weather to the neighbourhood. For, when the northernmost makes a loud noise they expect fair weather, and when the southernmost does the same rain and fogs. These are in the south and narrower part of this county, bounded on the west by the river Winster and that spacious lake beforementioned Winandermere; on the east by the river Lone or Lune [k]. {marginal = Ambleside. AMBOGLANA / Amboglana} At the upper point of Winandermere lies the carcase [i] as it were of an antient city with great ruins of walls and of buildings without the walls still remaining scattered about. It was of an oblong form defended by a fosse and vallum, in length 132 ells and in breadth 80. The British bricks, the mortar mixed with fragments of bricks, the small urns, glass vessels, Roman coins frequently found, round stone like mill-stones, of which piled on one another pillars were formerly made, and the paved roads leading to it plainly bespeak it a Roman work. Its antient name indeed is lost unless as it is at present called Ambleside any one should suppose it the AMBOGLANA of the Notitia. {marginal = Lone r. Lonsdale. Kirkby Lonsdale. Eden r. ITUNA. Pendragon c. Wharton hall. Kirkby Stephen. Musgrave. Heartley c. (Harcla.) VERTERAE. / Lune, River; Lonsdale} On the east the river Lone serves as a boundary, and gives its name to the adjacent tract of Lonsdale, q. d. the valley on the Lone, whose chief town is Kirkby Lonsdale, to which the neighbouring inhabitants resort to church and market. Above the source of the river Lone or Lune the country extends further, and the hills run out in many windings and turnings, under which are valleys of a great depth in many places hollowed like caverns. The noble river Eden, called by Ptolemy ITUNA, rising in the county of York, first with a slow stream, but by the influx of rivers gradually increased, seeks it way among these hills to the north-west by Pendragon castle, to which time has left nothing but a name and heap of stones; thence by Wharton hall, the seat of the barons Wharton, of whom the first was Thomas, advanced to that title by Henry VIII. and succeeded by his son of the same name, and he by the present lord Philip, a most worthy nobleman. It afterwards runs by St. Stephens, commonly Kirkby Stephen, a noted market town: and two villages of the name Musgrave which give name to the warlike family of Musgrave, of whom t. Edward III. Thomas Musgrave had summons to parliament [m] among the barons; Heartly castle in this neighbourhood was their residence. Here the Eden seems to stop again to unite with other rivulets, on one of which scarce two miles from the Eden stood VER- 147.a -- William Neuburgh. II. 32. 147.b -- or Kendale. Holland. 147.c -- daughter. Mon. Ang. I. 708. Dugd. Bar. I. 421. 147.d -- Helewise married Peter. (Dugd. Ib. 449.) 147.e -- Margaret. (Dugd. I. 555.) 147.f -- Of whom Sir William Parr was made lord Parr by king Henry VIII. H. 147.g -- 2 Hen.V. (Dugd. Bar. II. 200.) 147.h -- Beaufort, father of Margaret countess of Richmond. Vincent on Brooke, 477. q. Dug. 147.i -- Dugd. Bar. II. 228. 147.k -- The county reaches beyond the present river. (G.) 147.l -- Of this see before in Lancashire, p.144. 147.m -- 24 Ed.III. TERAE, Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (148) {marginal = VERTERAE. Burgh. Burgh under Stanemore. ABALLABA. Apelby. / Verterae; Brough} [VER]TERAE, an antient town mentioned by Antoninus and the Notitia, which last adds that in the decline of the Roman empire here was a Roman praefect stationed with a Numerus Directorum. The town at present reduced to a mean village, fortified with a small rampart, has changed its name to Burgh, by our people called Burgh under Stanemore. Under the later emperors, to remark once for all, small castles proper for war and well supplied, began to be called Burghs [A;] by a new name, which, after the removal of the empire into the east, the Germans and other nations seemed to have borrowed from the Greek πυ�ς [†], whence the Burgundiones has their name from inhabiting Burg, the common term at that time for dwellings thick scattered on borders. I find no further mention of this place except that in the beginning of the Norman government the English [n] here formed a conspiracy against William the Norman. I would venture to affirm this Burgh to be VERTERAE for this single reason, that the distance between it and Lavatrae one way, and Brovonacum the other, reduced to Italian miles, exactly corresponds with numbers in Antoninus, and the Roman military way with a visible ridge runs this way to BROVONACUM through ABALLABA, mentioned in the Notitia, which still retains its name with so little variation as to discover itself most clearly, and remove every doubt. For we call it by shortness from Aballaba Apelby. This place is considered only for antiquity and situation, as in the Roman times it was a station of Aurelian Moors, situate in a very pleasant country, and almost surrounded by the river Eden, but so thin of inhabitants, and meanly built, that were it not that for its antiquity it deserves to be accounted the principal town in the county, and to have the assizes held in its castle, which is the county gaol, it would be little better than a village. For all its beauty consists in one broad street running up a gentle hill from south to north. On the top of the hill is the castle, almost entirely surrounded by the river. At the bottom the church, and a school founded by Robert Langton and Milo Spencer, Doctors of Law, the head master whereof is the very learned Reginald Bainbrigge, who kindly copied for me several antient inscriptions in these parts, and removed several into his garden here. William of Newburgh [o], not without reason, calls this place and Burgh royal fortresses, when he relates the surprize of them by William king of Scots, a little before he was taken prisoner at Alnwick. King John generously gave them to John de Vipont for his services in re-taking them. {marginal = Buley castle. Kirkby Thore. / Kirkby Thore} The river hence pursues its course by Buley, a castle of the bishop of Carlisle, and Kirkby Thore, below which are to be seen considerable ruins of an antient town, and Roman coins are frequently dug up, and not long ago this inscription: DEO BELATVCAD- RO LIB VOTV M FECIT IOLVS. {marginal = Wheallop c. GALLATUM. Maidenway. / Gallatum; Maiden Way} Age has almost obliterated its name, it being now called Whellep castle. If the prince of antiquity [p] would allow me I should say it was the GALLAGUM of Ptolemy, and GALLATUM of Antoninus, agreeable to the distance of miles, and not contradicted by the name. The British term gall at the beginning of a word was changed by the Saxons into Wall, as GALENA into Wallingford, and Gall-Sever, Severus' Wall, &c. It was certainly considerable when the pitched road called Maidenway ran strait from hence to Caer Vorran by the Picts' wall, where moorish mountains rear their heads for nearly 20 miles. On this way I should conclude the stations and mansions recited by Antoninus in his IXth British iter lay if nobody had pointed out the places. Nor is this to be wondered at when they have been for so many ages the food of time. {marginal = Crawdundale-warth.} Near this place, at Crawdun dale-warth, are to be seen ditches, ramparts, and hills thrown up, and among them this Roman inscription copied for me by the aforementioed Reginald Bainbrig, schoolmaster of Appleby, and cut on a rough rock, the beginning effaced by time [q]: {marginal = } .... V[A]RRONIUS ... ECTVS LEG. XXV. V. .. [A]EL. LVCANUS .. P. LEG. II. [A]VG. C {marginal = [A] to A.} which I read ... Varronius praefectus legionis vicesimae Valentis Victricis ... Elius Lucanus praefectus legionis secundae Augustae castra metati sunt, or to some such effect. For the Legion Vicesima Valens Victrix, which was stationed at DEVA, or West Chester, and the Legio secunda Augusta stationed at ISCA, or Caerleon in Wales, being called to service here against the enemy, seem to have been quartered and have had their castra stativa here for some time, in memory of which their officers cut this inscription on to the rock. I cannot easily fix the date: but for this purpose these larger letters seem to have been cut on a neighbouring rock CN. OCT. COT. COSS. though we find no such names together among the consuls in the Fasti Cunsulares. I have observed, however, from the time of Severus to Gordian, and afterwards, the letter A in all the inscriptions of that age wants the transverse stroke, and is formed thus [A] {marginal = Howgil. BROVOMIACUM. Brougham.; Shape. / Brovoniacum; Brougham; Eden, River; Lowther, River; Eamont, River} Hence the Eden proceeds not far from Howgill, a castle of the Sandfords, but the military way runs strait on W. by Whinfield [e], a large shady park to BROVONIACUM, 20 Italian and 17 English miles from VERTERAE, as placed by Antoninus, who called it likewise Brocovum, as does the Notitia Broconiacum, adding that the Numerus Defensorum was stationed here. Though time has destroyed its buildings and glory, the name remains almost unaltered. For we still call it Brougham. Here the river Eymot rising out of a large lake, and for some time dividing this county from Cumberland, receives the river Loder, near whose source at Shape, antiently Heye, a small monastery, built by Thomas son of Gospatric, son of Orme, is a fountain, which, like the Euripus ebbs and flows several times a day, and several huge stones of a pyramidal form, some of them nine feet high, and four thick, standing in a row for near a mile at an equal distance, which seem to have been erected in memory of some transaction there, which by length of time is lost. On the 148.* -- Veg. IV. c.10. 148.† -- Orosius. 148.n -- The Northern English. Holland. 148.o -- II. 32. munitiones regales. 148.p -- Antiquitatis Praetor. 148.q -- Or thrust out by the root of a tree there growing. H. 148.r -- Whin signifies in the north of England he (sic) same as Burr in the south. Furze. G. Loder Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (149) {marginal = Loder, Strickland.} Loder is also a place of the same name, which, like Strickland in its neighbourhood, gave name to families of antient renown. Higher up at the confluence of the Loder and Eymot in the year 1602 was found a stone with this inscription in honour of Constantine the Great: {marginal = Pientissimo Augusto.} IMP. C. VAL. CONSTA- NTINO PIENT. AVG. {marginal = Isanparles Hanging walls of Marcantoniby. / Eamont, River} The Eymot, after serving some time as a boundary between this county and Cumberland near Isanparles, a rock well known in the neighbourhood, formed by Nature difficult of access, with many caverns and detours as a retreat to the distressed in troublesome times, throws its own and other streams into the Eden after a course of a few miles, when it has received the river Blencarne, a boundary towards Cumberland, on which I am told are confused ruins of a castle called the Hanging walls of Marcantoniby, or, as they fancy, Mark Anthony. {marginal = Arms of Vipont. Earls of Westmoreland. / Westmorland, Earl of} The first lord of Westmoreland that I have met with was Robert de Veteriponte, or de Vipont, who bore for his arms G. six annulets Or. King John gave him "the bailliwik and revenues of Westmoreland for four knights fees," whence the Cliffords his successors to this day hold the office of Sheriff of Westmoreland [*]. For the last Robert de Vipont [m] left only two daughters Sybill [n], wife of Roger lord Clifford, and Idonea, married to Roger de Leybourne. A long while after this king Richard II. [o] created first earl of Westmoreland Radulphus de Novavilla, or Neville, lord of Raby, a man of high and antient Saxon nobility, descended from Uchtred, earl of Northumberland. His descendants by his first wife M. [p] daughter of the earl of Stafford, enjoyed this title till Charles forming a conspiracy as vain as wicked against Queen Elizabeth, and being obliged to fly his country [q], disgraced that noble family, stained his own glories [r], and ended his life in wretched exile in the Netherlands. By his second wife Catherine [s], daughter of John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, he had such a numerous issue, that her descendants were at one and the same time earl of Salisbury, earl of Warwick, earl of Kent, marquis Montacute, baron Latimer, and baron Abergagavenny [t]. In this county are 26 populous parishes. 149.* -- Fines term. Mich. E.VI. H.VIII. 149.m -- who died 1261. Dugd. Bar. I. 349. 337. 149.n -- Isabel. H. 149.o -- 21 R.II. He died 1425, 14 H.VI. buried at Staindrop. Ib. 297. 149.p -- Margaret. Ib. 298. His son John died 1423 in his father's life time, and was buried in Grey Friars, London, and his son Ralph succeeded and died 4 Richard III. 1484, succeeded by his nephew Ralph 15 H. VII. and he by his grandson, who died 15 E. VI. His son Henry succeeded, and died 1564, 6 E. I. His son Charles joined in Northumberland's designs in favour of the Queen of Scots, and died 1584. (Camden vit. Eliz.) and with him this title ended. Ib. 297-301. 149.q -- and covering treason under the mask of religion. H. 149.r -- by actual rebellion in 1599. Ib. 149.s -- Joan. Dugd. Ib. 298. 149.t -- A duke of Bedford. H. ADDITIONS. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (150) {marginal = Westmorland; ADDITIONS} ADDITIONS. {marginal = Westmorland, extent} WESTMORLAND is about 40 miles long by as many broad, and 140 miles in circumference, contains 510,000 acres, four wards, seven market and two borough towns, 32 large parishes, and about 6500 houses. The air is sharp and healthy. The soil in the hills is barren and moory yet affording pasture for store of sheep; the vallies are fertile in corn and near the rivers in grass. [a]. Mr. Camden's description of the county answers only to that part from Lancaster through the barony of Kendal to Workington in Cumberland, which is a mountainous tract. Whereas the barony of Westmorland, commonly called from its low situation the bottom of Westmorland, is a large open champion country, not less than 20 miles long and about 14 broad, affording great plenty of arable land and corn. Nor do mores in the north parts signify wild barren mountains, but generally common of pasture, in opposition to fells or mountains; so that in Kendal barony where they have most mountains, there are few or no mores, their commons being generally called fells, and in the bottom of Westmorland there are few mountains (except that ridge which binds the county like a rampire or bulwark), but many mores which have ridges that still appear and shew to have been formerly plowed, having probably been deserted for situations more favourable to agriculture [b]. Archbishop Usher does not so much controvert the history of king Marius whatever becomes of the derivation of the name of Westmorland from him [c]. {marginal = placename, Westmorland} Dr. Burn [d] correcting Mr. Camden's etymology denies that the name of this county is derivable from moors, it being universally written in old records Westmerland. He does not seem to have been aware that it might imply the land or county of the Western mere or boundary between England and Scotland. {marginal = minerals; slate} Though mountains, or as they are called in the language of the country, fells, compose a large part of it, they are not altogether unprofitable. They feed large flocks of sheep, produce plenty of grouse or moor game, abound with rivulets which water the vallies beneath, and yield a great fund of minerals, lead, and coal, copper, and oker, and Silver-band fell silver; and in the western fells is found fine blue slate which supplies several parts of the kingdom, not to mention the spars and imitations of diamonds, coralloids, fossils, and marbles [e]. {marginal = Eden r. Lune r. Kent r. / rivers; Eden, River; Lune, River; Kent, River} The rivers of this county are but small, and only three that can properly be called rivers carry their name to the sea: The first river is Eden which springs in Mallerstang, and having in its course received, besides many lesser streams, the conjoined rivers of Lowther and Eamont, enters Cumberland, and running the whole length of that county empties itself into the sea at Rowcliff. The second is Lune or Lon, which has its source in Ravenstondale, and runs down the vale called from it Lonsdale, where it enters the county of Loncaster as it was antiently called, and a little below the town of Lancaster falls into the sea. The 3d is Kent which rises in Kentmere and washes the vale which from thence receives the name of Kendale, and empties itself into the sea below Levens [f]. "Kent river is of a good depth not well to be occupyed with botes for rowlling stones and other moles. Yt risith of very many heddes be likelihood springing within the same shire. A 2 mile about Kendale they come to one good botom and Kentdale town that standeth on the west side of it. Seven or 8 miles from Kendale is a mere commonly called Kenmore [g]." In it is a salmon leap [h]. {marginal = lakes; tarns} In the hollows among the mountains are found divers large lakes, having small rivulets running through them, which preserve the water clear, the lakes having commonly a pebbly or rocky bottom. Of these lakes Windermere, Ulleswater, Haws water, Ridal water, Elter water, Gresmere water, and other lesser lakes called tarns, as Sunbiggin tarn, Ravenstondale tarn, Whinfell tarn, &c. will be noticed in their places. All these bodies of water abound with divers species of fish, as trout, eels, bass, perch, tench, roach, pike, char and divers others. The south coast is pretty well furnished with sea-fish, of which upwards of thirty different sorts have been brought to Kendal market, till by the improvement of the town and port of Lancaster the market for fish is considerably drawn that way [i]. {marginal = woods} This county long after the Conquest appears to have been covered with wood: but it was probably destroyed on purpose to prevent it affording shelter to the Scotch invaders. Large trunks of oak, fir, birch, and other trees, which shew the mark of the ax, lie near to their respective roots in the mosses which have formed over them by the stoppage of the water [k]. {marginal = Helm wind. / helm wind} The helm wind is a phoenomenon peculiar to this county and the confines of Yorkshire and Lancashire, about Ingleborough, Pendle, and Penigent. A rolling cloud hovers over the mountain tops for three or four days together when the rest of the sky is clear, and continues notwithstanding the most violent hurricane and profound calm alternately succeeding each other [l]. {marginal = houses} The gentlemen's houses in this county are large and strong, generally built castlewise for security of themselves and their tenants with their goods against the inroads of the Scots. 150.a -- Burn's History of Westmorland I. 2, 3. 150.b -- Ib. p.7. 150.c -- Antiq. eccl. Br. 302. 150.d -- Ib. p.1. 150.e -- Burn, 3-6. Robinson's Nat. Hist. of Cumb. and Westmor. 150.f -- Burn Ib. 6. 150.g -- Lel. VII. 62. 150.h -- Stukeley It. Cur. II. 39. Of the salmon in this county and Cumberland see Burn, I. 207, 208. 150.i -- Burn Ib. 6, 7. 150.k -- Ib. 7. 150.l -- Ib. 7, 8. The Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (151) {marginal = roman roads; turnpike roads} The great Roman road passed through this county from Stanemore to Brougham castle, and till the turnpike road was made it was very conspicuous almost the whole length of its course, six yards broad, formed of three courses of large square stones, (the lowermost largest) or of gravel and flint as materials varied. Maiden way, so called perhaps from Maiden castle a small fort at the first entrance over Stanemore, branched out from the other at Kirkby Thore, stretching northwards over the low end of Cross fell to where it joined with the Picts wall in Northumberland. Beside these two Roman roads there are in this county eight good turnpike ones [m]. {marginal = Westmorland at the Conquest; Border Service} The country though barren is populous, and the inhabitants civilized; which advantage Dr. Burn ascribes to the institution of small schools in almost every village. Here are large remains of the antient feudal policy, retained longer in these parts by reason of the particular military tenure against the Scots. These lands were first granted out in large districts by William the Conqueror and his successors to certain great Norman barons. These parcelled them out to inferior lords, and they again granted them to individuals. And they seem to have extended this regulation as far as it would go. The soldier's estate from the number of antient tenements in the several manors appears to have been small, as what would now let for about 10 or 12l. per annum. And besides the general military service in the king's wars at home and abroad, the tenants in the borders were liable to be called out in the particular service against the Scots, at the command of the lords wardens of the marches. Even the very diversions of the children still have a reference to this border enmity. The boys to this day have a play called Scotch and English, an exact picture in miniature of the raid or inroad, and a very active and violent recreation [n]. The common people eat oaten bread as in Scotland, and oats are imported weekly out of Cumberland and the adjoining counties of York, Lancaster, and Durham. They breed great numbers of cattle, and export largely butter and hams [o]. This county is divided into the barony of Kendal and the barony of Westmorland, in later times called the barony of Appleby. The former belongs to the diocese of Chester, the latter to that of Carlisle. In each barony we find two wards, being districts of the like number of high-constables, who presided over the wards to be sustained at certain fords and other places for repelling plundering parties out of Scotland. Two of these wards are in Kendal Barony, Kendale and Lonsdale wards; and two in the bottom called East and West wards. There was antiently a middle ward between the two last, but since watching and warding ceased it has fallen into the other two [p]. It is a mistake that in antient times these parts paid no subsidy, being sufficiently charged in the border service against the Scots [1]; for we find all along collectors of the subsidies here granted both by clergy and laity from the reign of Edward III. downwards, and taking all the taxes together we shall find this country pays more to government in proportion to the wealth of the inhabitants than any county in the kingdom. {marginal = Barony of Kendal.} In the Domesday survey an account is taken of many places within the barony of Kendal, together with the adjoining places in Lancaster and Yorkshire, whereas of Westmorland properly so called no survey was made, it being all wasted and destroyed and worth nothing. This barony extended a good way into that part which is now called the bottom of Westmorland, particularly into almost all the west part comprehending the greatest part of the parishes of Barton, Lowther, and Morland. But now the boundary of Kendal barony as distinguished from the bottom of Westmorland is the same nearly as the boundary of the several parishes of Gresmere and Kendal on one side and Barton, Shap, and Orton on the other. It is in the diocese of Chester, and has two rural deaneries of Kendal and Kirkby Lonsdale, both of which extend into the adjoining parts of Lancaster. The bottom of Westmorland is in the diocese of Carlisle, and is all one rural deanry called the deanry of Westmorland [q]. The general military tenure of this county was by homage, fealty, and cornage; which last seems peculiar to the border service, and drew after it wardship, marriage, and relief, and the service of this tenure was knight service. Cornage was early converted into pecuniary payment, and White rent was the lord's rent paid in silver. Scutage was another service or compensation in money instead of personal service against the Scots. A knight's fee in these northern counties according to the register of Wetheral priory was estimated not according to quality but quantity of the land. According to that register 10 acres made one ferndell, four ferndells a virgate (which is half a carucate), four virgates one hide, and four hides a knight's fee: so that the knight's fee in this case would amount to 640 acres. The value of these appears to have been ascertained at the time of Magna Charta, which fixes the relief to be paid for a knight's fee at 5l. and as the relief in all the cases there specified was after the rate of a quarter of the yearly value of the fee, it follows that knight's fee was then estimated at 20l. per ann.. [r] The last tenure to be explained in this county, and which has puzzled former antiquaries, is drengage, which Dr. Burn proves to be the most servile of all tenures, in opposition to the free tenants, who were so called because they were not villains or bondmen [s]. For other customary tenures in this county I must refer to Dr. Burn [t]. {marginal = Kendal. / Kendal} "In Westmorland is but one good market town called Kendale, otherwise, as I wene, Kirkby Kendale. It hath the name of the river called Kent, unde & Kendale, sed emporium laneis pannis celeberrimum. In the town is but one church: the circuit of the parish by the country adjacent hath many chapels and divers in the town itself. About half a mile of on the east side of the town is on a hill a park longing to young Mr Par, the chiefest of that name, and there is a place as it were a castle [u]." Kendal is a large town situated in a beautiful valley prettily cultivated and watered by the river Kent. The principal street is above a mile long, rising north and south; the houses old and irregular, mostly of stone plaistered, yet the whole has an appearance of neatness and industry: the number of inhabitants 151.m -- Burn, 8, 9. 151.n -- Ib. 9, 10. 151.o -- Ib. 11. 151.p -- Ib. 12, 13. 151.1 -- G. 151.q -- Burn, 11, 12, 13. 151.r -- Ib. 14-20. 151.s -- Ib. 21. 151.t -- Ib. 22-26. 151.u -- Lel. VII. 62. about Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (152) about 7,000, chiefly engaged in manufacturing of linseys, worsted stockings woven and knit, and a coarse woollen cloth called cottons, sent to Glasgow and thence to Virginia for the use of the negroes. These manufactures employ great quantities of wool from Durham and Scotland [x]. As early as Richard II. and Henry IV. we find special laws enacted on purpose for the regulating of Kendale-clothes [y]. Kendal has a large weekly market. Elizabeth a. r. 18 erected it into a corporation by the name of aldermen and burgesses. Charles I. incorporated it with a mayor, 12 aldermen, and 20 burgesses [2]. This charter was surrendered to Charles II. who regranted it with a few alterations. Here was an hospital founded for lepers by Henry II. valued at £.6. per annum [z], and still called the Spittle, and here is a freeschool. The church is large, divided into five ailes, and has an altar-tomb with arms in a garter for sir William Parr, grandfather to the marquis of Northampton and queen Catherine, who was born here. The parish comprehends 24 townships or constablewicks, and was antiently larger. North of the church is Abbot hall, formerly belonging to the abbot of St. Mary's abbey, York, patron of the living. Here were also four chapels [a]. A chapel of ease was erected 1754, by the legacy of the most benevolent Dr. Stratford, commissary of the archdeaconry of Richmond, with the residue of whose property 58 small livings were augmented in this and adjoining counties, and other charities performed [b]. The ruins of the castle are on the top of a high hill west of the town [c], and opposite to it is a large exploratory mount called Castlehow hill [d]; whether Roman or not is uncertain: it is flat at top, surrounded by a ditch crossed by another. Round the base a deep foss and high dike strengthened by two bastions on the east side. Dr. Stukeley [e] calls it Saxon. Immediately below it is a spot called Battle place [f]. Charles Stuart 3d son of James duke of York after king James II. was created duke of Kendal 1664. Prince George of Denmark was created duke of Cumberland and earl of Kendal; and Melusina Erengart Schulenburg, who had before been created duchess of Munster in Ireland, was further honoured with the title of duchess of Kendal, countess of Glassenbury, and countess of Faversham [3]. Kendal gave birth to Dr. Barnaby Potter bishop of Chester, Dr. Christopher Potter, provost of Queen's college, Oxford, and Dr. Thomas Shaw the traveller and principal of Edmund hall. {marginal = Sisergh. / Sizergh Castle} In Helsington chapelry is Sisergh hall, the seat of the Stricklands from the time of king John, a venerable old building embattled, with a tower and guard-room. In it is a room called the Queen's with the royal arms, probably a retirement of Catherine Parr [g]. {marginal = CONCANGOIS / roman fort, Watercrook} CONCANGIOS is to be placed in Natland chapelry, below Kendal, at Watercrook, so called from a remarkable bend in the river; on the east side of which is a square fort, whose ramparts are very discernible, though the ditch has been levelled. It has been a large station, six chains from north to south and eight from east to west, and contains near five acres, the angles rounded [h]. Urns have been found in a bank laid open by the river, also coins and seals, a lamp, and the inscription below [i]: also an hypocaust, miscalled by Mr. Machel an oven [k]. The town seems to have stood between the fort and river, where they still plough up foundations of freestone and cement. Two or three tumuli are near the station, and the round artificial mount called Castle hill, on the west of Kendal is in sight. Dr. Gale [l] has no ground for placing Brovonacae here because one copy of the Itinerary spells it Broconaco [m]. Here was a numerus vigilum in the Notitia. In Mr. Guy's yard Dr. Stukeley saw a large altar with festoons and grapes on three sides [n], and the top of an altar in the stable: at the end of the house a headless statue, on whose head was formerly a crown, now lost [o]; a portable altar seven inches and an half high, defaced by being used as a whetstone; a Faustina large brass, an intaglio of Mercury in a gold ring, another triple headed, and a third. He was told of a large brass urn found with bones in it. Mr. Horsley has engraved a stone vase, most probably a font (No XI.) The latter antiquary gives this inscription built up in the end of a barn here: P. AEL. P. F. SERG. BAS' QD' LEG XX. W. VI. X'AN [ET ]. PRIVATVS LIBB. [ET]. HERC M. LEG. VI. VIC. FC. C. SIC SEPVLC. ALIVM. MORT ERIT. INFER. F. D. D. N. N. INS AI. I. S. VI. which he thus reads, Publius Aelius Publii filius Sergia [tribu] Bassus quaestor designatus legionibus vicesimae valentis victricis vixit annos ... et Publius Privatus liberti & Hero ... miles legionis sextae victricis faciundum curarunt. Siquis [in hoc] sepulcrum alium mort(uum intul)erit inferit fisco dominorum nostrorum ... Mr. Ward [p] reads the end of the 1st and beginning of the 2d line, Bassus praefectus equitum designatus; and the last word in l.3 heredes. Perhaps the last line expressed the fine [q]. Gale [r] read it Sergio Basso decurioni legionis [s] -- & privatus libertu & herm - miles emeritus &c si quis sepulcro, and in the last line only two or three strokes as for the sum. Before the entrance of the fort is a tumulus [t]: Above the station nearer Kendal a little below the bridge is a place very suitable for the purpose and still called the Watchfield [u]. About a mile and an half from this fort was the castrum exploratorum, now called Castle Steeds, 60 feet by 120, having two ditches on the south end and three on the north; the other sides steep. At the bottom of the hill a large spring [x]. 152.x -- Pennant, I. 259. Stuk. II. 42. 152.y -- 13 R.II. c.10. 9 H.IV. c.2. 152.2 -- G. 152.z -- Tan. 588 Burn, 75. 152.a -- Burn, 74, 75. 152.b -- Ib. 80. 152.c -- Pennant ubi sup. 152.d -- Horsl. 484. Burn, 81. 152.e -- II. 40. 152.f -- Penn. 261. 152.3 -- G. 152.g -- Burn, 103. West, 195. 152.h -- Stukeley, 14. Burn, 105. 152.i -- Stuk. II. 39, 40. 152.k -- Burn, I. 105. 152.l -- P. 40. 152.m -- Horsl. 484. Penn. 261. 152.n -- Horsl. Westm. ix. 152.o -- Ib. xii. Mr. Gale calls this a fine figure of a Cupid or Genius. MS. n. It is still here. West's Guide to the Lakes, p.191, calls it Silenus. 152.p -- MS. n. 152.q -- Horsl. 300. 152.r -- Ant. p.40. 152.s -- Quaestori ducenariorum or Duplariorum. Optioni decur. V. Pitisci Lex. v. Optio. Gale MS. penes me. 152.t -- Stuk. 41. 152.u -- Burn, I. 106. 152.x -- Stuk. II. 41-42. In Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (153) {marginal = Godmond hall. / Strickland Roger} In Strickland Roger another chapelry of Kendal remains at Godmond hall the tower in its original state. The walls are upwards of two yards thick and strongly cemented; the windows small and crossed with strong iron bars: the lowest floor is arched over; and the next above laid with massy boards or planks groined into each other to prevent assaults from above: for the predatory parties did not proceed by way of sap, but by compendious method strove to unroof the building and let themselves down by ropes and ladders [x]. {marginal = Kentmere. / Kentmere} At Kentmere was settled from the reign of John the antient family of Gilpin, from whom descended the pious Bernard, rector of Houghton le Spring, born here about 1517 [y]. Their antient hall still remains with a tower [z]. {marginal = Burton in Kendal / Burton in Kendal} In cleaning a field called The Quamps in Dalton hall demesne near Burton in Kendal 1774, were discovered foundations of large stones with door-ways in them, a copper pan, some small stone mortars, and a great number of stone hand mills. Within a mile of these ruins are two old halls. A quarter of a mile south-west of this spot was lately a small mound and trench; and at about an equal distance to the north were dug up at the same time foundations of a like inclosure near 40 yards square [a]. {marginal = Levens. / Levens} At Levens, the seat of the Redmans from John till Henry VII. is a fair stone bridge over the Kent, on the south side of which river are ruins of an antient building now called Kirkstead, said to have been a temple of Diana, and near it are ruins of another building, which seems to have belonged to the same place. In the park well stocked with fallow deer and almost equally divided by the river is a spring called the Dropping well, that petrifies moss, wood, leaves, &c [b]. In the river Betha is one of the two catadupae or waterfalls mentioned by Mr. Camden. The rock which crosses the bed of the river 66 feet in breadth is 16 feet perpendicular, down which the water falls with a mighty noise. But in the summer season the whole of the river is employed in carrying two corn mills [c]. {marginal = weather signs} The phaenomenon of Levens and Betham fall is thus to be explained. When that which is to the north sounds more loud and clear, the inhabitants look for sour weather; when that to the south, for rain; the south-west winds blowing from the sea bring the vapors with them, and from the north-east have the contrary effect [d]. {marginal = Witherslack. Betham. Milthorp. / Witherslack; Beetham; Milnthorpe} West from hence lies Witherslack, in which manor a fair parochial chapel was built and endowed by Dr. John Barwick dean of Durham and St. Paul's 1664, a native of the place, and consecrated 1671 by bishop Wilkins, and dedicated to St. Paul [e]. Betham, the parish church, is at a great distance. "By Bitham is a greate park, and a goodly place in it of the earle of Darby. By Bytham runneth Byth water, a pretty river [f]." Below at the mouth of the river Betham is Milthorp, the only seaport in the county, to which the commodities imported are brought from Grange in Lancashire [4]. Here are two paper mills, as there was one near a century ago [g]. Bytham hall, now in ruins, is thus described by the vicar of the place 1762. "By an easy ascent from the river we come to a gateway, being the grand entrance into the castle yard. Entering there we find ourselves in a fine open area, 70 yards long, by 44 in breadth. On the right appear to have been some buildings as low as the walls of the yard to the length of 98 feet, like barracks for soldiers. On the left we have a charming view of the castle standing at the south end of the area. The walls of the yard are three feet and an half thick, with loopholes for the archers at proper distances, 12 feet high below the parapet. The loopholes are about three feet from the ground, two feet and an half in height and breadth sloping outwards to two inches and an half. The front of the house is in length 87 feet, of which the east wing is 22, and the west 26; the remaining space of 39 feet makes the hall, which is in breadth 25 feet. The windows in the hall are high up in the wall, and small in proportion to the room, with much Gothic work about them. Indeed in all the old houses in the country the windows, for the sake of defence, have been small, and strongly secured with cross bars of iron. The doors of the rooms are all little, and one above another through each story. Up one pair of stairs there hath been a chapel with a back staircase to it, whereby the tenants and neighbours might come to the chapel without disturbing the family. Southward from the castle there is a fine descent, at the foot of which is a good spring that supplies two large ponds with water. Behind the house was the park, and in one of the walks there are the remains of a lodge, and near it a spring of good water, which Camden says had a petrifying quality, but there is little or no appearance of such quality at present [h]." {marginal = Helslack. Arnside / Arnside} Within this manor also is Helslack tower, now in ruins. Helslack mosses are remarkable for the ant or pismire. About the middle of August, when they take wing, 1000 sea maws may be seen here catching these insects. The neighbours call them the pismire fleet. In these mosses are found, as in many others, large trees lying in all directions at five feet depth. In this division likewise is Arnside tower, the walls thereof not yet much decayed. These towers seem to have been erected to guard the bay; as there are on the opposite side the vestiges of Broughton tower and Bazin tower, so there is Castle head upon the island in Lindal Pow, and higher up the moses of Methop, Ulva, and Foulsham were inaccessible. In the centre of the bay is Peel castle. {marginal = Haverbrack.} In Haverbrack park is a small hill, on the top of which was formerly a circular castle, whence it is still called Castle hill, and the side thereof Castle bank [i]. {marginal = Windermere water. / Windermere lake} The large lake called Windermere water is in Applethwaite division. The islands within it are all in Windermere parish. The rector hath for time immemorial had a pleasure boat upon it; and he hath a prescription of so much a boat, in lieu of all the tithe fish that are caught in the lake. This lake is from one to two miles broad, and extends with crooked banks for the space of about thirteen miles, but in a straight line drawn from one end to the other, perhaps not above eight or nine miles, being in some places of a wonderful [no footnotes found on my copy of the text] depth Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (154) {marginal = char} depth, and of a good clear pebbly bottom; breeding good store of fish, as eels, trouts (both common and grey), pikes, bass or perch, skellies, and particularly char, which is a fish generally about nine inches long, the rareness of which fish occasions many pots of it to be sent to London and other places yearly as presents. There are three sorts of chars; first, the male, being large, with a red belly, but the fish thereof somewhat white within, having a soft roe, these are called milting chars; secondly, the female, being also large, with not so red a belly, but the fish thereof very red within, having its belly full of hard roes or spawn, called roneing chars; thirdly, the female being not so large nor so red on the outside, but the reddest within, having no roes within its belly, and these are called gelt chars. Sir Daniel Fleming says, there are no chars to be found save only in this lake and Coningston Water. Some other waters (he says) pretend to have chars in them, as Buttermere in Cumberland, and Ulleswater, which is between Westmorland and Cumberland; but these are generally esteemed by knowing persons to be only case, a kind of fish somewhat like unto char, but not near so valuable; but the owners of the fishery in Ulleswater do not assent to this position. The fishery in the lake is farmed by several persons, who all together pay to the king's receiver for fishing 6l. a year, or for the fishing and ferry together £.6. 13s. 8d. and so it descends to their executors or administrators. The fishing is divided into three Cables as they call them: 1. The high cable, from the water head to the char bed, half a mile above Culgarth. 2. The middle cable, from thence to below the ferry. The low cable, from thence to Newby. And in each cable there are four fisheries. {marginal = Rothay, River; Brathay, River} Out of this lake there yearly passes up the river Routhey many very large trouts, and up the river Brathey great store of case, which are like char, but spawn at another season of the year. And although these two rivers do run a good way together in one channel before they disembogue into Windermere water, they are both very clear and bottomed alike, yet scarce ever any trouts are found in Brathey, or case in Rowthey. Some few salmon also, at the spawning season, come from the sea through the lake and up the river Rowthey, but none ever up the Brathey. Water fowl in great plenty resort to this lake, especially in winter; such as wild swans, wild geese, ducks, mallard, teal, widgeons, didappers, gravyes (which are larger than ducks, and build in hollow trees), and many others. {marginal = Belle Isle} In this lake are several islands; the largest of which is now called Long-holme, but antiently it was called Wynandermere island. Among the escheats in 21 Edward III. there is an order, that the wood in the island of Wynandermere called Brendwood (that is fire-wood, from the Saxon brennan, to burn), shall not be several but common to all the free tenants of Kirkby in Kendale, and of Strikland, Crosthwaite, Croke, and others, as well to depasture with all their cattle, as to take house-bote and key-bote at their will without the view of the foresters. Unto whom this island was first granted in fee by the crown we have not found. It belonged in after-times to the Philipsons of Crooke; and was sold by Frances daughter and sole heir of sir Christopher Philipson, son of Huddleston Philipson, to Mr. Thomas Brathwaite of Crooke, who sold the same to one Mr. Floyer, who sold to Mr. Thomas Barlow, whose brother and heir Mr. Robert Barlow sold the same to Thomas English, esq. {marginal = Civil War; Robin the Devil} This island contains about 30 acres of ground, most of it arable; and had an handsome neat house in the middle of it called the Holme-house; which in the civil wars was besieged by colonel Briggs for eight or ten days, until, the seige of Carlisle being raised, Mr. Huddleston Philipson of Crooke, to whom it belonged, hastened from Carlisle, and relieved his brother Robert in Holme-house. The next day being Sunday Mr. Robert Philipson, with three or four more, rode to Kendal to take revenge of some of the adverse party there, passed the watch, and rode into the church up one aile and down another, in expectation to find one particular person there whom they were very desirous to have met with. Our author, Mr. Machel, who was a royalist, out of delicacy, did not chuse to name him as he was then living, but probably it was colonel Briggs. But, not finding him, Robert was unhorsed by the guards in his return, and his girths broken; but his companions relieved him by a desperate charge; and, clapping his saddle on without any girth, he vaulted into the saddle, killed a centinel, and galloped away, and returned to the island by two of the clock. Upon the occasion of this and other like adventures he obtained the appellation of Robin the devil. He was killed at last in the Irish wars at the battle of Washford. Upon this island there is a remarkable echo; and, for hearing the same in perfection, Mr. Barlow provided two small cannon; on the explosion whereof towards the rock on the west side of the water, there is first a burst of the sound upon the rock, exactly similar to the first explosion by lightning, then, after an intermission of about three seconds, a sudden rattling of thunder to the left. And after another intermission, when one imagines all to be over, a sudden rumbling to the right, which passes along the rock, and dies away not distinguishable from distant thunder. St. Mary Holme, otherwise called Lady Holme, is another island in this lake, so denominated from a chapel built antiently therein, and dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. By an inquisition after the death of Joan de Coupland the jurors found, that she died seised of the advowson of the chapel of St. Mary Holme within Wynandermere, which was valued at nothing, because the land that had belonged to the same had in old time been seized into the lord's hand, and laid within the park of Calvgarth. Amongst the returns made by the commissioners to inquire of colleges, chapels, free chantries, and the like, in the reigns of Henry VIII. and Edward VI. there is the "free chapel of Holme and Winandermere." This island belonged to the Philipsons of Calgarth, and still goes along with the Calgarth estate. There are no ruins of the chapel remaining. It is a very small island. The chapel would cover near half of it. It is a rock with some few shrubs growing upon it in the middle of the lake, wonderfully adapted to contemplation and retirement. There is another island antiently called Roger Holme, Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (155) [Roger] Holme, which is of Lumley fee; whereof William de Thweng died seised in 14 Edward III. It was granted by Henry VIII. with the rest of the Lumley fee to Allan Bellingham, esq., and now belongs (with the other Bellingham estates in Westmorland) to the present Earl of Suffolk and Berkshire. {marginal = Ferry, Windermere; drowning} About the year 1634, there were 47 persons drowned in this lake in passing the ferry, coming homewards from Hawkshead market on a storm arising [k]. {marginal = roman fort, Waterhead} At the upper corner of Windermere water, not far from the present town of Ambleside, lies the carcase of an antient city with large ruins of walls, and without the walls the rubbish of old buildings in many places: adjoining to which and opening to the water has been a fort of an oblong figure 165 by 100 yards, fortified with a ditch and rampart. Pieces of bricks, little urns, glass phials, Roman coins, round stones like mill-stones, of which soldered together they were wont to make pillars (for hypocausts, and the paved ways leading to it, are undeniable testimonies of its being a work of the Romans. And to this place Mr. Horsley supposes the military ways to have gone which pass by Pap castle and through Graystock park [l]. This fort is guarded on the west by the conflux of the rivers Rowthey and Brathey, on the south by Windermere, a high rock at a small distance intercepted the north wind, and being fortified with a ditch and rampart it was only accessible from the south-east [m]. Mr. Ward supposed the name of this station DICTIS, and removed AMBOGLANA to Burdoswald [n], it being placed by the Notitia ad lineam valli. Among other pieces of antiquity discovered in this fort, were several Roman coins in all metals, which make part of the cabinet given by deed 1674 by Mr. Thomas Brathwate to the university of Oxford [5], many of them found in Barran's ring, a square fort in this lordship. The choir of the parish church of Windermere is adorned with a beautiful window, said to have been purchased by the parishioners from Furness abbey at the dissolution, representing in seven compartments the Crucifixion, St. George and St. Catharine, and two mitred abbots, with the arms of England t. Edward III. and of various benefactors [o]. At a place called Spying How in Troutbeck constabulary, was a heap of stones called the Raise, which, being removed to make fences, discovered a chest of four stones, one on each side, and one at each end, full of human bones. There is another very large heap called Woundale Raise [p]. {marginal = Ambleside. / Ambleside} Ambleside is a small town, whose inhabitants knit and spin for Kendal market [q]. It is in Windermere and Gresmere parish, and has a chapel augmented by queen Anne's bounty [r], and a school founded by Mr. John Kelwich 1723. {marginal = Ridal. / Rydal} A mile north of Ambleside, in Gresmere parish, is Ridal hall, a large antient seat of the Flemings, to whom this manor descended from the Lancasters t. Henry IV. The late sir Daniel Fleming communicated many particulars relating to this and the preceding county to bishop Gibson. The Flemings were originally of Furness in Lancashire, from a younger branch of whom the present family here descended. Sir Daniel was created a baronet about 4 Anne. His 5th son George was bishop of Carlisle, to whom the title descended, but is now enjoyed by his next brother's grandson sir Michael, whose father restored the original orthography of the name le Fleming. Rydal hall is a large old building, erected at different times, and intended to be rebuilt by the present owner. Here two beautiful cascades, Ridall water and Gresmere lake, to which the river Rothey serves as one common outlet, are objects of a traveller's curiosity. The country abounds in wood which is much used in the iron works [s]. Ridall head in this lordship is a very high mountain, from whence in a clear day may be seen Lancaster castle and much further [6]. {marginal = Dunmail Raise. / Dunmail Raise} On a high pass between the hills near Rydal is a large Carnedd called Dunmail Wray's stones, collected in memory of a defeat given 946 to a petty king of Cumberland by Edmund I. who gave his territory to Malcolm king of Scotland, on consideration he preserved the peace of the North of England [t]. The map makes it nine single stones. Dunmail Raise is a large mountain, great part whereof is in Gresmere parish, and is so called from a heap or raise of stones by the road side, which divides Cumberland from this county, thrown together either by Dunmail king of Cumberland as a mark of the utmost border of his kingdom, or by some other in memory of him [u]. In making a turnpike road from Ambleside to Keswic, about five or six years ago, they found an urn with bones and ashes in it, now in the possession of Humphrey Senhouse of Netherhall, esq. {marginal = Lonsdale.} Lonsdale gave title of viscount to sir John Lowther baron Lowther, who was succeeded by his sons Richard and Henry [7]. {marginal = Lune, River; Lonsdale} "About the borders of Westmorland and Lancastreshire be many dales, and in one of them a broke giving name to the dale [x]." Q. Lonesdale. {marginal = Lang gill. Brandreth stone.} The river Lune rising a little above Ravenstondale, or Rissendale, runs by Lang gill, where was born the learned Dr. Barlow bishop of Lincoln, distinguished by his great reading and his zeal against popery [8]. After receiving the Birckbeck it runs down by a field called Gallaber, where stands Brandreth stone, a red stone about an ell high with two crosses cut deep on one side. The tradition of the inhabitants makes it the mere stone between the English and the Scots, and it is worthy observation, that it is about the same distance from Scotland as Rere cross on Stanemore, of which see before in Richmondshire [9]. It may be the stone of which Leland VII. 63. says, "There is in Westmorland as it is said a famous stone as a limes of old time, inscribed." {marginal = Orton. / Orton} Orton, or Overton, is a vicarage belonging formerly to Conishead priory, Lancashire, after the dissolution to the crown, and by purchase from the latter settled in feoffees, who present, and the bishop of Carlisle institutes. The late Dr. Richard Burn, chancellor of the diocese of Carlisle, author of the Justice of Peace, and a system of ecclesiastical law, and joint editor of the History and Antiquities of this county and Cumberland in 2 vols. 4to. 1777, held it 155.k -- Burn, I. 184. A map of this lake by P. Crosthwaite 1783, is sold on the spot. 155.l -- Ib. 188. 155.m -- West's Furness, p.xlii. 155.n -- Horsl. 483. 155.5 -- G. Burn, I. 193, 194. 155.o -- West Ib. 95. Burn, I. 178. 155.p -- Burn, I. 188. 155.q -- Penn. 1769. 36. 155.r -- Burn, I. 189. 155.s -- Ib. 150-174. West's Guide to the Lakes, 79, 82. Mr. Gray's letters. 155.6 -- G. 155.t -- Penn. 37. West's Guide, 84. 155.u -- Burn, Ib. 149. 155.7 -- G. 155.z -- Lel. VII. 63. 155.8 -- G. 155.9 -- G. near Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (156) near 50 years to his death Nov. 20, 1785. Here is a market granted by Edward I. and confirmed by Oliver Cromwell 1655, who, 1678, granted two fairs. Behind Orton Scarr, which is famed for dotterels, on a large tract of naked rocks in a solitary place, is a place called Castle folds, strongly walled about, and containing about one acre and a half, to shelter cattle in case of inroads, and at the highest corner has been a fort for the keepers. Near Raisgill hill is a tumulus in a regular circle near 100 yards in circumference, about three high, composed of loose stones, and covering a large stone, supported by one other on each side, and under it a human skeleton, with the bones of several others round about [y]. A little above Rownthwait on the north side of Jeffery mount is a small spring called Gondsike, which continually casts up small silver like pieces of spangles [10]. In the mosses here abouts are dug up subterraneous trees. [11]. {marginal = Tebay. / Tebay} At Tebay is a freeschool, endowed 1672 by Mr. Robert Adamson, who was born at Rownthwait [z], and was likewise a benefactor to the church at Orton, and near it a mount called Castle how, with a trench thrown up to check the inroads of the Scots; as was another of the same name at Greenholm; both which mounts commanded the two great roads [a]. Green mount is the name of a fort in Lowth [b]. See also the Green lanes a Roman road in Lancashire and Middlesex. At Greenholm a school was founded by George Gibson, gent. 1733, who died in the same year [c]. {marginal = Eden r. / Eden, River} The river Eden rises in this county at Morvill Hugh-seat or Hugh Morvill's hill from one of that name lord of Westmorland [d]. This is a large round hill, where Anne countess of Pembroke erected a stone pillar, and on one of the stones is this inscription: A.P. 1664 [e]. {marginal = Pendragon castle. / Pendragon Castle; Clifford, Lady Anne} Pendragon castle belonged to the Cliffords from the beginning of Edward II. and now again reduced to bare walls, four yards thick and embattled, was rebuilt 1660 by Ann Clifford countess dowager of Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery, with three other antient seats of her ancestors in this county; in which she kept up the antient hospitality by removing from one to the other, and diffused her charity all over the county [f]. Over the entrance of the castle is this inscription: "This Pendragon castle was repaired by the lady Anne Clifford, countesse dowager of Pembroke, Dorsett, and Montgomerie, baronesse Clifford, Westmerland, and Vescie, high sheriffesse by inheritance of the county of Westmerland, and lady of the honour of Skepton in Craven in the year 1660; so as she came to lye in it herself for a little while in October 1661, after it had layen ruinus without timber or any covering, ever since the year 1541. Isiah, chap.lviii. ver.12." "God's name be praised." She built also the bridge over the Eden nigh the castle, and repaired the chapel 1663 after it had lain waste and ruinous some 50 or 60 years, endowing it with lands in Cawtley near Sedberg, to the yearly value of £.11. per annum for ever, and in 1714 it was augmented with queen Anne's bounty. The castle was demolished by Thomas earl of Thanet about 1685. It is washed on the east by the Eden, and on the other side are great trenches, as if its founder meant to draw the water round it. But tradition says the attempt failed; and, according to the old provincial rhyme, Let Pendragon do what he can, Eden will run where Eden ran [12]. {marginal = Wharton house. / Wharton Hall} Wharton house has been the seat of its family from the reign of Edward I.; and they have been lords of Croglin hall in Cumberland, and patrons of that rectory above 400 years [g]. Thomas was created a baron by Henry VIII. for his surprising conduct and success in the entire defeat of the Scots at Solom moss; which victory in all its circumstances was perhaps one of the most considerable the English ever gained over the forces of the neighbouring kingdom. Edward VI. in recompence of that eminent service granted this lord an augmentation of his paternal coat, a border engrailed O. charged with legs of lions in saltire G. armed Az. [h]. He died 1568, and was buried in the church of Kirkby Stephen, where is a monument to him and his two wives. He was succeeded by his son Thomas, who died 1572, had for successor his son Philip, who dying 1625, and was succeeded by his grandson Philip, son of sir Thomas, who died in his father's life-time [i]. Philip died and was succeeded by his son Thomas, who was advanced to the honour of viscount Winchedon and earl of Wharton, and afterwards marquis of Wharton, and died 1715. His only son and successor was created duke of Wharton, and died 1731 [13]. The village of Wharton was demolished long ago to make room for the park, and the hall is now desolate and in ruins [k]. {marginal = Kirkby Stephen. / Kirkby Stephen} Kirkby Stephen is a considerable market-town, where the stockings made in and near it are sold. Here is a freeschool, founded by Thomas first lord Wharton in the reign of Elizabeth [l]. {marginal = Musgrave. / Great Musgrave; Little Musgrave} The villages of Great and Little Musgrave may seem rather to derive their name from the family, their name being taken from their office Musgrave or Mosgreve equivalent to Warden of the Marches, which office they held, and not improbably the same with Markgrave [14]. They are as old here as Peter Musgrave in the reign of Stephen. Richard Musgrave his lineal descendant was created knight of the bath, and a baronet by James I. His son Philip distinguished himself on the king's side in the civil war, and defended the Isle of Man for the countess of Derby, and, at the Restoration, had a warrant for creating him baron Musgrave of Hartley castle, but never took out the patent. The present baronet Philip is the 5th in lineal descent from him. The family burial-place is at Eden-hall, repaired and beautified by sir Richard Musgrave the 1st baronet, who died and was buried at Naples 13 James I. [m] The late sir Christopher Musgrave in a great measure demolished the noble pile, and employed the materials on his seat at Eden-hall [n]. 156.y -- Burn, I. 481-492. 156.10 -- G. 156.11 -- G. 156.z -- Ib. 485. G. 156.a -- G. Burn, I. 491. 493. 156.b -- Wright, I. xxi. Se Green castle in this county, p.159. 156.c -- G. Burn, 485. 156.d -- G. See before, p.150. 156.e -- Burn, I. 561. 156.f -- See her portrait in Pennant's tour, 1772, p.358. pl.XLIV. See also before p.41. 156.12 -- G. 156.g -- Reg. Halton ep. Carl. p.154. 156.h -- See before, p.48. 156.i -- Dugd. II. 38. 156.13 -- G. 156.k -- Burn, I. 558-561. 156.l -- G. Burn, I. 542. Gent. Mag. XXIV. 230, 1754. 156.14 -- G. 156.m -- Burn, I. 590-599. 156.n -- Ib. 544-547. Winton Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (157) {marginal = Winton. / Winton} Winton in Kirkby Stephen parish gave birth to Dr. John Langhorn, well known by his various essays in verse and prose, and to Dr. Richard Burn before mentioned [o]. {marginal = Harcla castle. / Hartley Castle} Harcla castle was granted first to sir Thomas Musgrave on the attainder of Andrew de Harcla earl of Carlisle. It was enlarged. {marginal = VERTERAE. / Verterae} Verterae is no doubt rightly fixed at Brough. The course of the military way is absolutely certain; the remains are generally so grand, and it is so rarely interrupted, and then only for so short a space, that we have never the least difficulty about it [p]. Wart hill, a beacon hill [q]. {marginal = Brough. / Brough} The town is divided into two, upper or church Brough (or Western), where stands the church, which had very rich painted windows [r], and of which Robert Eglesfield founder of Queen's college, Oxford, was rector, and procured the appropriation thereof from king Edward III. to the said college. Here also stands the castle (a high square tower and not unlike Richmond castle), and the fort mentioned by Camden called Caesar's tower. The castle having been burnt to the ground 1521, was rebuilt 1661 by the countess of Pembroke before-mentioned, and was again reduced to a ruin by Thomas earl of Thanet 1695 [s]. Near the bridge is a medicinal water. The other part is called Lower or Market Brough, from the inconsiderable market held there every Thursday [15]. The chapel here is now a freeschool. {marginal = Appleby. / Appleby; Aballaba} "Appleby is the shire town, but it is now but a poor village having a ruinous castle wherein the prisoners are kept [t]." Mr. Horsley removes Aballaba to Water-cross on the Wall; the station being placed per lineam valli [u]. It occurs also on lord Hertford's Roman cup, under the name of Avallava, as it is also spelt in Ravennas [x]. Appleby being thus out of the wall, yet from the antiquities found there, and the Roman road a station, he [y] determines it to be GALACUM of the Itinerary, which ever since Mr. Camden's time has been placed at Kirby Thor or Whellop castle. It is now the best corn market in the county [16]. and has three fairs, makes a neat compact appearance at a distance; the principal street broad, with a good inn fronting the market-cross, which stands aukwardly in the middle of the street. The church is but small, but has a most delicate monumental figure of Margaret countess of Cumberland, mother to Anne Clifford before-mentioned, with these comprehensive lines under the epitaph: "Who, Faith, Love, Mercy, noble Constancy, To God, to Virtue, to Distress, to Right, Observ'd, express'd, shew'd, held religiously, Hath here this monument thou seest in sight, The cover of her earthly part: but, passenger, Know Heaven and Fame contain the best of her." {marginal = Clifford, Lady Anne} Also an altar-tomb for her daughter: over which is a tablet with the succession and arms of the lords and earls of Westmorland from Robert Vipont to herself. The entrance to the yard is by a handsome colonade built by Dr. Thomas Smith, bishop of Carlisle. This church and that of Bongate adjoining were repaired by the liberality of the aforesaid countess of Pembroke. On the north side of the street is an hospital founded for 12 poor women, and another by Anne countess of Pembroke 1653 [z]. The castle, now the seat of the earl of Thanet, is a square tower, surrounded by modern apartments, built by Thomas lord Clifford t. Henry IV. and repaired by the countess; in which are curious portraits, armour, and tapestry. The assizes are now held in the town-hall, and the gaol is at the end of the bridge [17]. At the school here established by queen Elizabeth were bred bishops Barlow, Bedel, and Smith, which last was a great benefactor. It has flourished to the present time, and furnished near half the foundation of Queen's college, Oxford, for the last 50 years [a]. The curious collection of inscriptions made here by Mr. Camden's friend Bainbridge were dispersed or stolen at the rebuilding of the school in this century, except those to be specified. So little consolation have collectors who labour for incurious or ungrateful posterity! {marginal = roman inscription} "Upon a front of a little building made of stone by Mr. Reginald Bainbrigg in 1602, he being then schoolmaster of the freeschool of Appleby, are placed divers stones having Roman inscriptions upon them; which he (being much affected to those antiquities) had got together from several parts of this county, and also out of Northumberland and Cumberland. They are placed in two ranks, twelve in one and eight in the other. There is one also above towards the roof; and another on a coyne-stone looking towards the south. There are two more also on the front of the school-house, viz. on each side of the doore one. "The letters upon some of these seeme to have been cut deeper, by direction of the sayd Mr. Bainbrigg, in respect they were all most worne out by time. "Of some of these Mr. Cambden hath printed copyes in his Britannia, which were communicated to him by this school-master, as he acknowledgeth. "There are three other stones, viz. one standing just ouer the doore of the sayd building, and the other adjoyning to it towards the south, whereon are these following inscriptions, cut by direction of the sayd Mr. Bainbrigg, viz. ABALLABA QUAM C.C. FLVIT ITVNIA STATIO FVIT RO: TEM M. AVR. AVREL. HANC VASTAVIT FF GVIL. R. SCOT 1176 HIC PESTIS SAEVIT 1598 OPP. DESERT. MERCAT' AS GILSHAVGHLIN F. DEVM TIME. D. O. M. D.L.L.M. REGINALDVS BAINBRIG QVI DOCVIT. HIC. ANN. XXII. AET. S. 57. 1602. H.M.S.V.P. 157.o -- Burn, I. 549, 550. 157.p -- Hors. 410. Burn, I. 577. 157.q -- Gale, MS. n. 157.r -- Burn, I. 572, 573. 157.s -- Ib. 579. 157.15 -- G. 157.t -- Lel. VII. 62. 157.u -- P. 108. 154. 157.x -- Ib. 330. 157.y -- P. 454. 157.16 -- G. 157.z -- Burn, 319. 157.17 -- G. 157.a -- Burn, [ ] [ROBERTO] Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (158) ROBERTO LANG TON ET MILLONI SPEIVCER QVI APLEBEIAE F. f. HANC SCOLAM H.M.OB.M.P.R.B.P. DE REPUBLICA BENE MERERE PVLCHRYM EST. C.C. in the 4th line in circumfluit, F.F. in the 4th funditus, and the last F. fuit. So that here we have its Roman antiquity, its devastation by war and pestilence, and the removal of the market to Gilshaughlin four or five miles north-west of the town in Cliburn parish. "The other stones which are placed on the front of this building, all except two, I take to be copies made by the said Reginald Bainbrig, from severall originals which he found in sundry places of this country and the parts adjacent; most of which are published by Mr. Camden, if not all [b]." Appleby has several evidences of its antient splendour. Henry I. gave it privileges equal to York, that city's charter being granted as is pretended in the forenoon and this in the afternoon of the same day. Henry II. granted them another charter of like immunities, as did Henry III. in whose time here was an Exchequer. These privileges were in all points like those of York, and confirmed by succeeding kings. When it was first governed by a mayor does not appear; but here was one in the reign of Edward I. with two provosts, who seem to have been formerly equal to sheriffs or bailiffs, and signed the public acts of the town with the mayor [c], though now they only attend him with halberds. Bromton mentions Aplebyschire, which seems to imply that it had then sheriffs of its own as most cities had, though now we call them bailiffs. For 2 Edward I. in a confirmation charter to Shap abbey we find this subscription: Teste Thoma filio Johannis tunc vicecomite de Apelby. The Scotch wars by degrees reduced this town. It was burnt 22 Henry II. and again 11 Richard II. when of 2200 burgages by due computation of the fee-farm rents, these remained not above 1/10th as appears by inquisitions in the town chest. Since that time it never recovered itself, but lay dismembered like so many separate villages which could not be known except by records to have belonged to the same body. For though Burgh gate is spoken of as the principal street, yet Bon gate, Battle burgh, Dongate, Scattergate, are all members of it, and that it was antiently of greater extent appears from the Burrals near a mile from it, which word being a corruption of Burrow walls may prove its having been walled about, because the town walls of Bath are called Burrals, and ruins of buildings have been dug up two or three miles from the present town [d]. The condition and misfortunes of this place are recited in the inscription before-mentioned in the school-house garden. The Viponts and Cliffords (ancestors on the mother's side to the earls of Thanet) have been lords of the country, and flourished at this place for above 400 years [e]. Here was a house of White Friars founded 1281, and near it an hospital of St. Nicholas [f]. {marginal = Buley castle. / Bewley Castle} Buley castle is said to have been erected at different times by several bishops, and there is remaining an account of several ordinations held there [18]. It is now a mean and ruinous building [g]. {marginal = Crackenthorp. / Crackenthorpe} From thence the Eden runs to Crackenthorp hall, a seat pleasantly situated on its east bank belonging to the Machels, a family of good note in this county from the Conquest to the present time. About it lie several considerable camps, and many antiquities found thereabouts and in other parts of the county were collected and preserved by Mr. Thomas Machel, brother to Hugh Machel, lord of the manor, and late minister of Kirkby Thor, who intended a history of this county [19]. {marginal = roman fort, Burwens; Bravoniacum} Nigh the way side between Crackenthorp and Kirkby Thore, on the side of the Roman road, is a large Roman camp, 300 yards by 150, having three entrances on each side and at each end, with bulwarks before them, and at about a bowshot distance further by the way side is a small fort called Maidenhold, which seems to have been a guard house or watch tower to the camp, and, by its name, may possibly have some relation to the Maidenway at Kirkby Thore and Maiden castle upon Stainmore [h]. At Machel's bank, about 10 yards from the Roman way, were discovered in ditching three urns with burnt bones and ashes contiguous to each other, in a triangular form, in the middle of a round pit of clay made for the purpose about a yard deep, compassed with burnt bones and black ashes to within a foot of the surface, the remainder being closed up with earth. About 40 or 50 yards distant from these was another similar pit full of ashes and burnt bones without any urns [i]. {marginal = BROVNAC[AE]. Kirby [Thor.]} Mr. Ward [k] places BROVONACAE at Kirby Thor, Brugh being ten miles from thence as Verterae is from Brovonacae. The altar mentioned by Mr. Camden is now worked up in the end of the old school house at Appleby, and under a modern inscription H. M. EST GALLAGI, Hoc monumentum est Gallagi, probably by Mr. Bainbridge before-mentioned. Mr. Machel in Phil. Trans. No.158, describes a patera found here inscribed ... TIAN IMP .... Coins, urns, and other antiquities have also been found here [l]. In 1753 was found in a stone wall of a field near the parsonage house the upper half of an altar, inscribed: IOVI SERAPI L[ ]ALE[ ]NVS [ ] FALF Another beginning ANTONIA. There are like wise other Roman letters and sculptures, upon several of the door lintels, in the same town, which Mr. Horsley has omitted [m]. {marginal = Whelp castle.} The manor house, as well as most of the town of Kirkby Thor, have been built out of the remains of Whelp castle, of which there are now scarce any remains. The main body of it stood in a place called the Burwens, on a rising ground at the bank of the rivulet called Troutbeck, not far from the river Eden. 158.b -- From a MS. paper in my possession signed H.T. probably Hugh Todd. 158.c -- E cartis Machellorum de Crackenthorp. 158.d -- Burn, I. 309. 158.e -- Tan. 588. 158.f -- Burn, ubi sup. 158.18 -- G. 158.g -- Burn, 456. 158.19 -- G. 158.h -- On the etymology of these names see Mr. Pegge in Gent. Mag. XXV. 273. 1755. 158.i -- Burn, I. 351, 352. 158.k -- Horsl. 510. 158.l -- Ib. 298. 158.m -- Gent. Mag. VIII. 417. 1738. XXIII. 270. 1753. The Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (159) The square inclosure, called the High Burwens, seems to have been the area of it, containing eight score yards in diameter, now ploughed and cultivated, and the outer buildings to have run along the said rivulet, at least as far as to the fulling mill, or further beyond the Roman way, and so up the west side of the high street, about 160 yards, and thence again in a strait line to the west angle of the said area. In all these places have been found conduits under ground, vaults, pavements, tiles, and slates with iron nails in them, foundations of walls both of brick and stone, coins, altars, urns, and other earthen vessels, Mr. Machel found 1687 among the foundations a wall made up of four others of hewn stone, each two foot four inches thick: in another part an altar inscribed FORTVNAE SERVATRICI: also some leaden pipes, and a drain through the wall above-mentioned, and divers arched vaults underground flagged with stone or paved with bricks about 10 inches square and two thick, and some a foot square, and two inches and an half thick. At the lower end of the town he found an antient well by the side of the Roman road from Appleby to Carlisle: in it were several urns and fine earthen vessels, the head of a spear, sandals of leather stuck full of nails [n]. A few years ago the horn of a moose deer was found about four feet under ground by the washing away of the bank near the conflux of the Troutbeck and Eden [o]. It is not worth mentioning that Dr. Gale in his notes on Nennius, p.133, fancied he found Whallop castle in the Catguoloph of an old fragment of that writer in the Cottonian library near Marchontiby, which Mr. Camden heard of, but which seems now equally unknown. Kirkby Thor has been supposed to retain the name of the God Thor, whose figure was thought to be found on a singular coin late in Mr. Thoresby's Museum. The characters on the reverse are Runic and were read by Dr. Hickes [p], Thor gut luntis, and explained by bishop Nicolson the face of the God Thor, but by Dr. Hickes Thor the national God, to whom also the moon and stars concurred to accompany them. But it was much more probably illustrated by the learned Keder, member of the college of antiquities at Stockholm, who published a critical essay on it at Leipsic, 1703, 4to. See also his "Runae in nummis vetustis [q]," shewing the head to be the figure of our Saviour, and the inscription, the place, and mint-master's names Thorgut Luntis, i.e. Thorgut London, whether of London in England or Lunden in Sweden uncertain. The cross at the head of the inscription and in the centre of the reverse are evidently Christian, and Keder produces other similar coins to this, which so much puzzled all preceding antiquaries, who, when they had once set up the idea of the god Thor, tortured every thing to their system as much as Leibnitz to his, that it was struck by or for Thurgot, a Danish admiral, who Dithmar says blocked up London 1016. {marginal = Temple Sowerby. / Temple Sowerby} In the parish of Kirkby Thor is Temple Sowerby, so called from having belonged to the Knights Templars, lately to the Dalstons [r]. {marginal = Howgill castle. / Howgill Castle} Howgill castle is the mansion of Milburne manor. Some of its walls are ten feet and an half thick, and under it are great arched vaults. In this manor near to a place called Green castle, a round fort with deep trenches about it on the south end of Dunfell, was found an altar inscribed DEO SILVANO [s]. Near Sandford field corner on the right hand of the road from Warcop towards Appleby, not far from the Roman road are three or four tumuli: the largest 91 paces in circumference, the second 86, the next about 40, the last a small one almost defaced. The largest was cut through 1766, and half a yard below the summit was found a small urn in a larger, containing a few white ashes: by it, a little deeper, lay a sword with a curious carved hilt two feet long and two inches and an half broad, the haft three inches and a quarter, and the heads of two spears; fragments of a helmet, and umbo of a shield three inches and three-quarters diameter. Below these a great heap of stones piled up pyramidally, in diameter six or seven yards, concealed a square place about four feet by two, containing rich black mould two inches deep, in which were many human bones which evidently appeared to have been burnt [t]. Near these tumuli is a small camp with a single trench, and at a small distance on another hill another of about the same dimensions [u]. {marginal = Burton. / Burton} At Burton in Warcop parish was born Christopher Bainbridge, dean of York, bishop of Durham, and archbishop of York, who was sent ambassador by Henry VIII. to the Pope who created him a cardinal: but happening to strike his steward, the revengeful Italian poisoned him, and he died and was buried at Rome 1511 [x]. {marginal = Maiden way. Market Brough. Warcop. Ormside hall. Hornby hall. / Maiden Way; Hart Horn Tree} The Roman road called the Maiden way passes through a large camp, where the stone of king Marius formerly stood, now succeeded by the Rere cross. Thence through Maiden castle, a small square fort, in which have been found Roman mortars, quite through Market Brough, over Brough fair hill, on which are some tumuli, and on which were found three celts in making the turnpike road. Leaving on the left Warcop, a pretty village (which gave name to a family so early as the reign of John, and was afterwards possessed by the Braithwaits [y]), it passes along Sandford moor, and down a horse course to Cowpland beck bridge, where on the right are the ruined foundations of a noble round tower 40 paces diameter, opposite to it the site of an hospital [z], and near it on the left Ormside hall, the seat of the antient family of its own name, and afterwards that of Hilton [a]. About 100 yards from the village was a castle, whose site is still called Castle hill [b]. Then by Appleby to the camp on Crackenthorp moor, through the end of Kirkby Thore downs, and through Temple Sowerby, a village of the Dalstons of Acorn bank. Then by the side of Whinfield forest to Hart-horn tree, which may seem to give name to Hornby hall, and to have borrowed its own from a stag which was coursed by a single greyhound to the Red Kirk in Scotland, and back again to this place, where both being spent, the stag leapt the pales, and died on the other side, and the hound, attempting to leap, fell and died on this side. Both their heads were 159.n -- Machel's letter to Dugdale, Phil. Trans. 1684. Horsl. p.289. Burn, I. 379, 380. 159.o -- Burn, I. 380. 159.p -- Diff, ad num. Sax. A. Fountaine, p.165. 159.q -- Lips. 1709. 159.r -- Burn, I. 381, 385. 159.s -- Ib. 388. 159.t -- Rev. Mr. Preston's letter to bishop Lyttelton in Ant. Soc. min. and Burn, I. 609, 610. 159.u -- Burn, I. 610. 159.x -- Ib. 614. 159.y -- Ib. 600-605. 159.z -- Ib. 610. 159.a -- Ib. 513. 517. 159.b -- Ib. 600. nailed Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (160) nailed on the tree, and the dog's name being Hercules, they made this rhyme on them inscribed on a brass plate: Hercules kill'd Hartagreese And Hartagreese kill'd Hercules. But this seems all vulgar tradition, and for Red kirk we should rather suppose Nine kirks at Brougham a neighbouring parish; and before this there was a place in the park called Harthorn sike, perhaps from some large horns [c]. {marginal = Three Brother Tree} In the middle of this park is the Three brother tree, so called from there having been three of them, whereof this the least was 42 feet circumference a good way from the top, still remaining 270 years old, the trunk hollow, and capable of admitting a man on horseback to turn in it [d]. From hence the road goes due west to the Countess pillar, erected by Anne countess of Pembroke, and adorned with arms, dials, &c. and a black obelisk on the top, and this inscription in brass: {marginal = Countess Pillar} This pillar was erected anno 1656, by the right honourable Anne, countess dowager of Pembroke, and sole heir to the right honourable George earl of Cumberland, &c. for a memorial of her last parting in this place with her good and pious mother the right honourable Margaret Countess Dowager of Cumberland, the second April, 1616, in memory whereof, she also left an annuity of four pounds to be distributed to the poor within this parish of Brougham every second day of April for ever upon the stone table hereby. Laus Deo. From hence the road carries us to Brougham castle, to Lowther bridge, and so over Emot into Cumberland [20]. {marginal = Crawdendale / Crowdundle} The inscriptions at Crawdendale were copied by Mr. Bainbridge on another stone as one single inscription, whereas in fact they are cut with a common pick on two pieces of rock that have fallen off from the grand one. Some liberties have been taken in the copy, and the words underneath are now almost effaced in the rock, where Mr. Camden places them distinct. Mr. Bainbridge added Q.S.S.S. AP. CRAWDUNDALE; quae suprascripta sunt apud Crawdundale. The C in the first line is now scarce legible: the word in the second is plainly ESSUS, perhaps Lessus; a name in Gruter 661. 10. The fourth line begins with TR for tribunus [e]. Castrametati sunt, or castrametatus est, as Horsley, are not probable. Mr. Machel discovered another inscription here on a rock, not noticed before [f], V LEG II. AVG XXVV CO and as the evanescent words CO are on this, it may probably be that on which Mr. Camden mentions CN. OCT. COSS. The stones dug up in the foundations at Kirby Thor seem to have come from these quarries; and similar inscriptions occur in others at Helbeck Scar, on the river Gelt, and at Lenge crag near Naworth castle in Gillesland, whence the stones for the Picts wall were taken [21], and at Shawk. {marginal = Brougham / Brougham Castle; Brougham} "Ther is an old castle on the ... side of Eden water called Burgh. About a dim from the castle is a village called Burgham, and there is a great pilgrimage to our lady. At Burgham is an old castle that the common people there say doth sink. About this Burgham ploughmen find in the fields many square stones tokens of old buildings. The castle is set in a strong place by reason of rivers enclosing the country thereabouts [g]." {marginal = BROCAVUM / roman fort, Brougham; Brocavum; roman inscription} It is agreed the BROUGHAM is the BROCAVUM of Antoninus' 5th Iter, not Brovoniacum, for there is no such name, but not the BRABONIACUM of the Notitia, which Gruter confounds with Brocavicum its Borcovicum. Antoninus's BROVONACAE, which Gale [h] places at Kendal, and makes the same with Brocavum [i], is by Ward [k] removed to Kirby Thor, or Whelp castle. Stukeley makes it Galava [l]. Brougham castle stands within the station, and there is a fragment of an altar inscribed, PRO SE ET SVIS. L. L. M. remarkable only for the form of the stops [m]. He says the Roman city lies on the east side of the Louther just by the castle, and is very easily traced. He saw many fragments of altars and inscriptions at the hall; and in the wall by the Roman road beyond the castle and near the countess of Pembroke's pillar a pretty busto part of a funeral monument, and further on another bas relievo much defaced. He imagined the high ground by this pillar, where most of the inscriptions were found, was the site of the city, rather perhaps of the pomaerium, or cemetery. Horsley [n] gives Mr. Camden's inscription here thus: .IMP. .C. VAL CONST ANTINO PIENT AVG: and refers it to Constantine the Great, but of a later date than that in his honor found in the wall. He doubts if it be the same which Mr. Camden saw. It is now at Appleby. Under it had been another inserted in the wall, whence the inscriptions at Appleby were taken, though now they are lying loose on the ground. The inscription on this other stone is modern, and perhaps by Mr. Bainbrigg: H. L. INVENT. E BROVONACI. i.e. Hic lapsis inventus est Brovonaci. To this same station must be referred another inscription whose original Mr. Horsley would gladly have recovered, but was told two or three inscribed stones had lately been destroyed by masons at Appleby, and this might be one. Burton and Gale give it DEABVS MATRIBVS TRAMAI. VEX. GERMA. P. V. R. D. PRO SALVTE RFVS. L. M. which is to be read: Deabus Matribus tramarinis vexillato Germa- 160.c -- Burn, I. 399. 160.d -- Ib. 398. 160.20 -- G. 160.e -- Horsl. p.299. Westmorl. IV. 160.f -- Horsl. Westm. V. 160.21 -- G. 160.g -- Lel. VII. 63. 160.h -- P. 40. 160.i -- P. 97. 160.k -- P. 410. 160.l -- II. 45. 160.m -- Horsl. Westm. I. 297. 160.n -- Horsl. Westm. II. 297. norum Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (161) norum quo salute republicae volum solvit libens merito [o]. In Brougham castle Francis; earl of Cumberland, entertained James I. on his return from his last progress into Scotland 1617. Having been desolated in the civil wars it was repaired by Anne countess of Pembroke 1615 and 1652, since which it has been suffered to go to decay [p]. {marginal = Shap. / Shap; Karl Lofts; Kemp Howe} Shap, antiently written Heppe, is a long village, with the ruins of the Premonstratensian priory transferred from Preston in this county t. Henry II. valued at £.154 [q], and its beautiful tower in a sequestered vale half a mile off. At the S. end of the village on a common near the road side is an area upwards of half a mile long and between 20 and 30 yards broad, of small stones, and parallel to the road begins a double row of immense granites three or four yards diameter and 8 10 or 12 yards asunder, crossed at the end by another row; all placed at some distance from each other. This alley extended within memory above a mile quite through the village, since removed to clear the ground. The space between the lines at the south-east is 80 feet, but near Shap only 59, so that they probably met at last in a point. At the upper end is a circle of the like stones 18 feet diameter [r]. The ebbing well is now lost, its effect being purely fortuitous, and common in rocky countries [22]. {marginal = Shap Wells} Opposite to Wasdale fort, but in the parish of Crosby Ravensworth, by the side of the river Birkbeck, was discovered some few years ago a spa, now known by the name of Shap well, to which in summer is a considerable resort. It is impregnated with sulphur and smells like rotten eggs, and has been found serviceable in scorbutic disorders [s]. {marginal = Bampton. / Bampton; Gibson, Edmund; Britannia} At High Knipe, in Bampton parish, was born Thomas Gibson, M.D. physician general to the army, and author of "a System of Anatomy," who married to his second wife a daughter of Richard Cromwell the protector. There also was born 1669 his nephew EDMUND GIBSON, D.D. bishop of Lincoln and London, who had the honor of publishing a new translation of Mr. Camden's BRITANNIA, with considerable additions and improvements in successive editions. He was educated at the freeschool founded at Bampton 1623 by Dr. Thomas Sutton, another native, under Mr. Jackson (who held it 44 years), and admitted 1686 of Queen's college, Oxford. He began his literary career with publishing 1691 in 4to. "Drummond's Polemo-Middiana," and James V. of Scotland's "Cantilena Rustica," and in 1692 the Saxon Chronical, and the Catalogue of the Tenison and Dugdale MSS. In 1693 a correct edition of Quintilian, and in 1694, when he proceeded M.A. Somner's Roman Ports and Forts in Kent, and his Portus Iccius illustratus. In 1695 he entered into orders, and published, with the assistance of his friends, a new translation of the BRITANNIA, with a dedication to Lord Somers, who offered him a living of £.200. a year in the isle of Tanet, which he declined on account of health. In 1696 he was admitted library keeper at Lambeth to archbishop Tenison, who took him into his family, and in 1697 he was appointed morning preacher at Lambeth, and prefixed to the "Catalogus Manuscriptorum in Anglia & Hibernia," a Latin life of Bodley, and history of his library. In 1698 he published "The posthumous works of sir Henry Spelman, with his life," and was lecturer of St. Martin's in the fields. He distinguished himself in defence of the archbishop's rights as president of the convocation, and had the degree of D.D. conferred on him by the archbishop 1702, was preferred to the rectory of Lambeth, to the precentorship and a residentiary place in the church of Chichester, and 1710 to the archdeaconry of Surry. In 1713 he published his "Codex juris Anglicani," and in 1716 was promoted to the see of Lincoln, and 1723 translated to London. His close application to study and business of various kinds brought on a decay which terminated his life at Bath Sept. 6, 1748, in the 79th year of his age, having lived to publish a second edition of Britannia, enlarged to two volumes 1722. He was interred at Fulham with no other inscription over him than "Edmund Gibson, lord bishop of London [t]." {marginal = Lowther. / Lowther} Olaus Wormius [u] consulted by Spelman finds Loder or Lother a common name among the antient kings of Denmark, and derives it from Loth and Er, q.d. fortunate honor. The name of Lothair is also frequent among the German emperors. Perhaps however both the name and seat of Lowther here, as Lauder in Scotland, are to be derived from the neighbouring river, which in British signifies clear water, Gladdwr. This river springs in Wet Sleddale in Shap parish, and runs along by that abbey, Rosgill hall, through Bampton, by Askham and Lowther halls, Clifton hall, Round table, and at Brougham castle falls into the Emot, where it loses its name, and is carried with that river into Eden [x]. The family have figured here for many generations from the time of Henry II. Sir John Lowther, who was keeper of the privy seal and one of the lords justices during the absence of William III. 1699, was advanced 1696 to the dignity of baron Lowther viscount Lonsdale, which became extinct in his grandson. The first viscount built here 1685 a handsome house (which was burnt down 1720), and rebuilt and furnished the church. Christopher, another branch of this family, was created a baronet 11 Charles I. which honour ended in his grandson James, who died immensely rich 1755, and in the title of baronet and the estate was succeeded by James Lowther, a descendant from one common ancestor, and created earl of Lonsdale 1784 [y]. {marginal = Arthur's Round Table} "Within a mile of Perith, but in Westmoreland, is a ruin, as some suppose of a castle, within a flite shot of Loder, and as much of Emot water, standing almost as a mediamnis between them. The ruine is of some called the Round table, and of some Arthur's castel. A mile lower meteth Loder and Emot at Burgham castle [z]." A little before the Loder joins the Emot, just beyound Yeoman's or Eamont bridge over the latter, it 161.o -- Horsl. 208. 161.p -- Burn, I. 358. 161.q -- Tan. 588. 161.r -- Pennant, 1769. 258. Stukeley, Abury. Burn, I. 477. West's Guide to the Lakes, p.181. West says 'the range leads to circles of small stones, and encreases the space between the rows as they approach the circles where the avenue is about 27 paces wide. 161.22 -- G. 161.s -- Burn, I. 481. West Ib. 182. 161.t -- Burn, I. 463, 464. 161.u -- Mon. Dan. p.192. 161.x -- Burn, I. 428. 161.y -- G. Baronet. II. 308. Burn, 428-440. 161.z -- Lel. VII. 63. passes Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (162) {marginal = Arthur's Round Table. Mayborough. / Arthur's Round Table; Mayburgh} passes by a large circular earthwork, single trenched, the ditch within 29 yards diameter, the two entrances opposite to each other north-west and south-east. This is called Arthur's Round Table. A small distance from this to the south is another such earthwork, consisting only of a low rampart, and called the Little Round Table. To the north of the first, on the summit of a small hill, is Mayborough, a vast circular dike of loose stones, the height and diameter at bottom stupendous; it slopes on both sides, and is formed of pebbles. The entrance is on the east, the area 88 yards diameter. Near the middle is an upright stone, nine feet eight inches high, and 17 in circumference in the thickest part. There have been three more placed so as to form a square with it. Four more stood at the corners of the entrance, but all these have been long removed. This may have been a druidical tribunal like Bryngwyn at Trew Drw in Anglesea [a]. Dr. Stukeley [b] supposed it a British cursus. Mr. West [c] derives its name from the British Mysirion,a place of study and contemplation. Almost opposite to Mayborough, on the Cumberland side of the Emot, is a vast cairn of round stones, called Ormsted hill, surrounded by large grit stones of different sizes, some a yard square, forming a circle 60 feet diameter [d]. {marginal = Emot r. Ulleswater. / Eamont, River} Emot may be called the Ticinus of the two counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland falling in a clear and rapid stream out of Ulleswater as the Tesin from Lago Maggiore. Upon its banks king Athelstan A.D. 926, concluded a treaty of peace and union with Constantine king of the Scots, Huval (Howel), king of the Western Britans or Stratcluid Welsh, and others who found themselves unable to make head against him. They met, according to Simeon Dunelm. [e] and Hoveden iv. Id. Jul. in a place called Eamotun, and entered into a league confirmed by oath [f]. Bishop Gibson has taken much pains to prove the above monuments, particularly Mayborough, memorials of this event, whereas they are plainly British and Druidical. They are both in Barton parish [g], as also is a considerable part of Ulleswater, a large mere seven or eight miles in length, of great depth, well stocked with fish [h]. {marginal = Barton.} Emot runs by Barton, a very large parish, reaching from the boundaries of Ridal and Ambleside south to the river Loder north. Here is a freeschool founded 1649 by the learned D. Gerard Langbaine, provost of Queen's college, Oxford, a native, as was also Dr. William Lancaster, another provost and benefactor to this school [23]. {marginal = Yanwath. / Yanwath Hall} About a mile from Yanwath hall at the end of the wood opposite Lowther hall is an antient round fortification called Castle steads [i]. {marginal = Isa parlis. Nine churches. / grotto, Penrith; St Ninian's Church} Isa parlis is also called Giant's cave, an odd rock [k], and consists of two caverns, one circular, hollowed in a rock, the roof supported by a central pillar of rough masonry [l]. Its iron gates are pretended to have been carried to Hornby hall [m]. Opposite to it in a peninsula is St. Ninians, vulgarly called Nine churches, the parish church of Brougham. The late rector of this and Clifton, Mr. Patten, was a correspondent of Dr. Stukeley and Mr. Gale, and gave them a particular account of the many antiquities in this neighbourhood. His daughter Mrs. Bockham, who 1771 kept a farm near Arthur's round table, told me, that, on her removal from Newcastle she burnt a great collection of these letters and drawings of seals, &c. {marginal = Clifton moor. / Battle of Clifton Moor} Clifton moor is memorable for a skirmish between the king's troops under the duke of Cumberland and the rebels 1745, in which about 15 were killed on both sides, and lieutenant colonel Honeywood of Howgill castle taken up for dead. Dr. Todd mentions a fountain in this parish near the banks of the Lowther of christalline limpid water, strongly impregnated with steel, and vitriol, of great benefit for scorbutic complaints [n]. {marginal = Crosby Ravensworth. / Crosby Ravensworth} In Crosby Ravensworth parish is a remarkable heap of stones called Penhurrock, probably a tumulus [o]. {marginal = Meburn. / Maulds Meaburn} At Meburn town head, in this parish, was born Lancelot Addison, who passed many years in travels over Europe and Africa, was rector of Milkston, c. Wilts, archdeacon of Coventry, and dean of Lichfield, and died 1703, being father of the celebrated Joseph, Gulston, governor of Fort St. George, and Lancelot, fellow of Magdalen college, Oxford, and three daughters [p]. {marginal = Rasate. / antiquities} At Rasate in Ravenstonedale parish, not far from Sunbiggin tarn, are two tumuli, in which have been found many skeletons laid round about the hills, with the heads all lying upwards towards the hill top, and the hands on the breasts. In the high street leading from Kirkby Stephen to Sedbergh near Rawthey bridge is a circle of large stones supposed a druidical monument. In 1774 was found in the peat pits near the town, two feet below the surface, a copper vessel, eight inches diameter at bottom, 14 at top, and 16 inches in the widest part just under the neck, depth 18 inches, containing about eight gallons and a half, made of three distinct plates, and much used in fire: being very slender it has six copper fillets at equal distances reaching up the sides two inches and a half, and turned over as much at bottom, which serve to support it, and it has within two ears with moveable rings, the whole of elegant workmanship [q]. {marginal = Kirkby Lonsdale. / Kirkby Lonsdale} Kirkby Lonsdale is a neat well-paved town, the largest in the county next to Kendal, beautifully situated, the houses covered with blue slate, the church a large and decent structure, and opposite to it Abbots hall, an old hall serving as an inn. The river Lune runs at the foot of the steep rock, 40 yards perpendicular, on which the town stands. Underlay, a mansion here about half a mile distant, commands a view of a rich and fertile vale, terminated by a range of lofty mountains, the nearest two or three miles off. Ingleborough with its head in the clouds farthest to the south. The bridge over the river is built of freestone of three ribbed arches, the centre arch is 12 yards from the water [r]. Sir Daniel Fleming says he found Humphrey de Bassingburne a knight of the earl of Westmorland before the Conquest [s]. 162.a -- Pennant, 256. See vol.II. 567. 162.b -- II. 43. 45. 162.c -- Guide to the Lakes, p.179. 162.d -- Pennant, 257. 162.e -- p.154. 162.f -- see hereafter in Cumberland. 162.g -- Burn, I. 414. 162.h -- Ib. 404. 162.23 -- G. 162.i -- Burn, 413. 162.k -- Stuk. II. 46. 162.l -- Hutchinson, 118. 162.m -- Gibson mentions it in Cumberland, II. 1021. 162.n -- Burn, I. 420. 162.o -- Ib. 501. 162.p -- Ib. 503, 504. 162.q -- Ib. 519. 162.r -- Walker's Tour to the Caves. See this bridge engraved in Gent. Mag. XXIII. p.355. Burn, I. 244. 247. 162.s -- Burn Ib. 26. The Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (163) {marginal = Earls of Westmorland. / Westmorland, Earl of} The title of earl of Westmoreland was revived by James I. 1624, in the person of Francis Fane, descended from the Nevilles by his mother, daughter and heir of Henry Neville, lord, Bergavenny. He died 1628 at Westmoreland house in Great St. Bartholomew, London, and was buried at Apthorp, c. Northampton. His son Mildmay succeeded, and dying 1665, was buried with his father, and succeeded by his son Charles [t], who died 1691, and was succeeded by his son Vere. He died 1692, and was succeeded by his son and namesake, who dying 1699, was succeeded by his brother Thomas, and he, 1736, by his brother John, who died 1762, aged above 80. The title devolved on Thomas a descendant from sir Francis Fane, 3d son of the first earl. He died 1771, and was succeeded by his son John, who died 1774, and is succeeded by his son John the 10th and present earl. 163.t -- Dugd. Bar. II. 450. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (164) {marginal = Westmorland, plant list / flowers; botany} Rare Plants found in Westmorland. Acrostichum septentrionale. Forked or Horned Fern; on the mountains on Ambleside. Actaea spicata. Herb Christopher, or Bane-berries; in woods. Adoxa Moschatellina. Tuberous Moschatel; in hedges. Alchemilla alpina. Cinquefoil Ladies Mantle; on the rocks on the side of Ullswater lake, on in Lonsdale. Allium arenarium. Broad-leaved Mountain Garlic; in Troutbeckholm, near Great Strickland. --- carinatum. Purple flowered Mountain Garlic; on rocks near Lonsdale. --- loeracium. Herbaceous Wild Garlic; in corn fields, everywhere. --- schoenoprasum. Chives; in meadows and pastures. Althaea vulgaris. Marsh Mallow; in marhses near the sea. Andromeda polifolia. Wild Rosemary, or Marsh Cistus; in turfy bogs. Aquilegia vulgaris. Columbine, Culverwort, Cocksfoot, or Sowdwort; in mountainous woods. Asarum Eoropaeum. Asarabacca; in woody plces. Arenaria laricifolia. Larch leaved Chickweed; on the mountains. --- verna. Mountain Chickweed; on the mountains above Kendal. Asperula Cynanchica. Squinancy-wort; on the limestone hills about Conzwic near Kendal. Asplenium Ceterach. Spleenwort; on the bridge at Troutbeck. --- Ruta maria. White Maidenhair, Wall Rue, or Tentwort; on walls and rocks. --- viride. Green Maidenhair; on walls and rocks. Athamanta Meum. Spignel, Meu, or Bawd-money; in mountainous meadows frequent. Atropa Belladonna. Deadly Nightshade, or Dwale; in hedges and on rubbish. Bartsia alpina. Mountain Eyebright Cowwheat; near a rivulet running by the way from Orton to Crosby. Bryum crudum. Spear-leaved Bryum; in woods about Rydal. Byffus saxatilis. Stone Byffus; on rocks. Campanula latifolia. Giant Throatwort, or Canterbury bells; in bushy places and hedges: at Kendal. --- rotundifolia γ. A variety of Round-leaved Bell-flower; on the high mountains. --- Trachelium. Great Throatwort, or Canterbury bells; near the footpath between Levens and Sizergh. Cardamine hirsuta. Hairy Ladies-smock; in meadows, pastures, and moist shady places: in Kendal. --- impatiens. Impatient Ladies-smock; in mountanous meadows and pastures, near rivulets, and in moist shady places: at Kendal. Carduus heleniodes. Melancholy Thistle; in mountainous pastures, everywhere. Carex distans. Loose Carex; on the mountains, and elsewhere. --- gracilis. Nova Species. Curtis Flora Londinensis Fasc. 4. Slender spiked Carex; on the borders of Conzwic Tarn, near Kendal. --- inflata. Lesser Bladder Carex; in marshes: everywhere. --- limosa. Brown Carex; in turfy bogs. Chara hispida. Prickle Chara; in ditches and ponds. --- tomentosa. Brittle Chara; in turfy ditches. Cineraria palustris. Marsh Fleabane; on Burton moss. Circaea alpina. Mountain Enchanters Nightshade; at the bottoms of mountains, about Dalham. Cistus Helianthemum. Dwarf Cistus, or Little Sunflower; in mountainous meadows and pastures, especially of a limestone soil: atCald-kail-scrogs, near Kendal. --- hirsutus. Hoary Dwarf Cistus; on Betham banks, near Scoot Style, near Kendal, and at Buckbarrow bank-scar, between Brigscar and Conzwic. Cochlearia officinalis γ. Groenlandica. Groenland Scurvy-grass; in Lonsdale, and at Buckbarrow well. Conserva fluviatilis. Horse-tail Conserva; in rivers. Convallaria majalis. Lily-convally, or May-lily; in woods at Kendal and Levens. --- majalis β. Narrow leaved Lily-convally; in woods and on heaths: by Waterfall bridge, and elsewhere. Cotyledon Umbilicus veneris. Navelwort, Wall Pennywort, or Kidneywort; on moist old walls and stoney places: about Troutbeck, and in Merslack, a shady lane, Winander meer. Cynosurus coeruleus. Small blue-eared Mountain Spike-grass; in mountainous meadows: at Helsfel Nab, Kendal. Cypripedium Calceolus. Ladies Slipper; in woods and among bushes. Draba incana. Wreathen podded Whittow-grass, or Wreathed Lunar Violet; in fissures of rocks, and in mountainous places everywhere. --- muralis. Wall Whitlow Grass; in fissures of rocks, and in mountainous pastures and stoney places, particularly of a limestone soil, everywhere. Drosera anglica. Great Sundew; in boggy places, everywhere. --- longifolia. Long leaved Sundew, or Rosa folis; on Brigstear moss. Epilobium Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (165) Epilobium alpinum. Mountain Willowherb; on the moist rocks about Buckbarrow well. Equisetum hyemale. Rough Horsetail, or Shave-grass; on the side of the rivulet between Shap and Anna well. --- limosum. Smooth Horsetail; in Lonsdale. Eriophorum vaginatum. Hare's-tail Rush, or Moss Crops; in mosses and boggy places frequent. Festuca ovena β vivipara. Grass upon Grass; on the mountains. --- rubra. Purple Fescue Grass; on mountainous heaths and pastures. Fontinalis pennata. Feathered Water Moss; on trunks of trees between Troutbeck and Ambleside. Fumaria claviculata. Climbing Fumitory; on the side of a ditch near Kendal castle. Galanthus nivalis. Snowdrop; in orchards. Galium boreale. Crosswort Madder; in mountainous meadows: near Kirkby Lonsdale above the bridge, Orton, Winander meer, and elsewhere. --- pusillum. Least Ladies Bedstraw; on mountains near Kendal. Gestiana campestris. Dwarf Vernal Gentian; in mountainous pastures: about Kendal. --- Pneumonanthe. Marsh Gentian, or Calathian Violet; in moist meadows near Milthorp, and at Foulshey. Geranium moschatum. Musked Crane's-bill, or Muscovy; in dry meadows and pastures everywhere. --- sanguineum. Bloudy Cranes-bill; on the side of the foot path leading from Kendal to Barrowfield. --- sylvaticum. Mountain Cranes-bill; in bushy places and mountainous pastures frequent, found with a variegated flower, in Old Deer park, near Thornthwaite. Geum rivale. (flore peno.) Water Avens, with a double flower, at Great Strickland. Gnaphalium dioicum. Mountain Cudweed, or Cat's-foot; in dry mountainous pastures: near Scoot Style, near Kendal. Hedysarum Onobrychis. Cockshead, or Saint Foin; in chalky meadows and pastures: at Sizergh and Old Hall. Hesperis inodorata. Unsavory Dame's Violet; on the banks of the rivers about Dalehead and Gresmere. Hieracium auricula. Narrow-leaved Hawkweed; on Dale head. --- dubium. Mouse-ear Hawkweed; on Fairfield hill, near Rydal. --- murorum. French or Golden Lungwort; in woods, and on walls and banks of fields: at Scoot Style, near Kendal. --- murorum γ. A variety of the last; about Bucklebarrow well in Lonsdale. --- murorum δ. Another variety; on the rocks by the rivulet between Shap and Annawell. --- paludosum. Succory leaved Hawkweed; at Bucklebarrow well. --- sabaudum. Broad leaved bushy Hawkweed; in woods and hedges: at Kendal. --- sabaudum β. A variety of the last; near Ulswater lake. Hippocrepis comosa. Tufted Horse-shoe Vetch; on the edge of the Scar near Kendal between Scoot Style and Honybee Yate. Hippuris vulgaris. Mare's-tail, or Female Horsetail; in the lakes on Brigstear moss, plentifully, and in Holme mill-dam, Burton. Hypericum Androsoemum. Tutsan, or Park leaves; in Lady Holm, Winander meer. Hypericum elodes. Marsh St. Peterswort; in rotten and spongy marshes: at Kendal. Hypnum pennatum. Nova Species. J. Dickson Fasciculus Plantarum Cryptogamicarum Britanniae: on trunks of trees in woods between Ttroutbeck and Ambleside. Impatiens Noli me tangere. Quick in the Hand, or Touch me not; on the banks of Winander meer, near Rydal hall, and elsewhere. Juncus filiformis. Least soft Rush; on turfy mountains: near Ambleside. Jungermannia cilaris. Fern Jungermannia; in woods and wet heaths, and near rivulets, everywhere. --- nemorosa. Wood Lichenastrum; in woods and shady places. Juniperis communis β. A variety of Common Juniper; on the tops of mountains. Inula Helenium. Elecampane; in moist meadows and pastures. Lathraea Squamaria. Toothwort; in a field below Scoot Style, near a footpath leading to Barrowfield, and in bushy places below Conzicscar, near Kendal. Lichen aphtosus. Thrush Lichen; in woody and stoney places; and on rocks. --- crassus. Thick Lichen; on rocks and mountainous heaths. --- furfuraceus. Branny Liverwort; on trunks of trees. --- fuscus. Brown Lichen; on rocks and great stones. --- herbaceus. Green Lichen; on stones and on trunks and about the roots of trees. --- islandicus δ. A variety of Eryngo-leaved Liverwort; on the tops of mountains. --- pubescens. Pubescent Lichen; on rocks and stoney places everywhere. Leonorus Cardiaca. Motherwort; on rubbish and in hedges; about Kendal. Linum perenne. Perennial Blue Flax; in meadows and pastures of a chalky soil: at Crosby Ravensworth, and between Shap and Threapland. Lobelia Dortmanna. Water Gladiole; in Ulswater and Winander meer, plentifully. Lycopodium alpinum. Mountain Club-moss; on mountainous heaths. --- Selago. First Club-moss; -ditto.- Lysimachia tenella. Purple Moneywort; on bogs. Marrubium vulgare. White Horehound; by highway sides on rubbish. Melica montana. Mountain Melic-grass; in mountainous groves, frequent. Menyanthes trifoliata. Buckbean, or Marsh Trefoil; in marshes and watery places. Myosotis scorpoides β. A variety of Mouse-ear Scorpion-grass; in dry meadows: at Buckbarrow scar. Narcissus Pseudo Narcissus. Wild English Daffodil; in woods and hedges: at Great Strickland. Narthecium Ossifragum. Lancashire Asphodel or Bastard Asphodel; in wet grounds. Oenanthe crocata. Hemlock Dropwort; in ditches at Kendal. Ophioglossum vulgatum. Adders-tongue; in moist meadows Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (166) [Ophioglossum vulgatum. Adders-tongue; in moist] meadows and pastures; at Helsfel Nab near Kendal. Ophrys cordata. Leafy Twayblade; on moist mountainous heaths, especially of a turfy soil everywhere. --- muscifera. Fly Orchis; in Barrowfield wood and in the marle close near Brigstear-moss. --- Nidus avis. Bird's-nest; on the side of a lane near Honeybee Yate near Kendal. Ornithogalum luteum. Yellow Star of Bethlehem; in meadows and pastures: near Kendal. Orhithopus perpusillus. Bird's-foot; among the tenters at Kendal. Osmunda crispa. Stone Fern; on rocks: frequent. --- Lunaria. Mooonwort; in mountainous meadows and pastures: frequent. --- Lunaria β. Cut-leaved Moonwort; at Great Strickland. --- regalis. Flowering Fern or Osmund Royal; on Brigstear-moss and Underbarrow-moss. Papaver cambricum. Yellow Welch Poppy; in mountainous places: about Kendal plentifully and in Kirkby Lonsdale. Parnassia palustris. Grass of Parnassus; in moist meadows, frequent. Pinguicula vulgaris. Butterwort or Yorkshire Sanicle; in swampy places. Poa pratensis β alpina. Alpine meadow Grass; on the mountains. Polemonium coeruleum. Greek Valerian or Jacob's Ladder; on the east side of the river Kent at Kendal between the Mill-race and Kirk-dub. Polygonum Bistorta. Great Bistort or Snakeweed; in moist meadows, frequent. --- viviparum. Small Bistort or Snakeweed; in mountainous meadows: at Crosby Ravensworth, and elsewhere. Polypodium Dryopteris. Branched Polypody; in dry stoney places, frequent. --- fragile. Brittle Polypody; on old stone walls and rocks, plentifully. --- fontanum. Rock Polypody; in stoney places near Wybourn. --- fragrans. Sweet Polypody; in moist chinks of rocks: near Keswick. --- phegopteris. Wood Polypody; in moist and shady chinks of rocks everywhere. --- rhaeticum. Stone Polypody; on stoney mountains everywhere. --- Thelypteris. Marsh Fern; in woody and boggy marshes and in hedges, everywhere. Patomogeton setaceum. Setaceous Pondweed; in the ditches on Brigstear-moss. Primula farinosa. Bird's-eye; in mountainous bogs. Prunus Padus. Bird's Cherry, Wild Cluster Cherry-tree, Hedge-berry-tree or Black Grape Cherry; among the mountains, common. --- Cerasus β. Least wild Cherry-tree or Merry-tree; in woods ands hedges: about Rosgill. Ranunculus acris. Upright meadow Crowfoot; this plant varies on the tops of the mountains with one or two flowers on a stalk and with a very hairy large calyx. --- flammula β. A variety of Lesser Spearwort; in the marle pits at Burton. Rhodiola Rosea. Rosewort; on the mountains, frequent. Ribes nigrum. Black Currants or Squinancy berries; in moist woods and on banks of rivers. Ribes rubrum. Commoon Currants; in woods. Rubus Chamoemorus. Cloud-berries, Knot-berries, or Dwarf Mulberries; in turfy bogs on the mountains. --- saxatilis. Stone Bramble or Raspis; among stones on the sides of mountains. Rumex digynus. Round-leaved Mountain Sorrel; on the mountains, frequemt. --- sanguineus. Bloodwort; in woods: at Old Hall, and elsewhere. Salix herbacea. Herbaceous Willow; on the mountains. --- pentandria. Bay-leaved Sweet Willow; -ditto- --- reticulata. Round-leaved Willow; -ditto- Samolus valerandi. Round-leaved Water Pimpernel: on Brigstear-moss. Satyrium viride β fuscum. Brown Satyrion; in Helsfel nab near Kendal. Saxifraga autumnalis. Yellow autumnal Saxifrage; in mountains. --- caespitosa. Small mountain Sengreen; on the mountains upon Ambleside. --- hypnoides. Ladies Cushion or Trifid Sengreen; on the mountainous places. --- stellaris. Hairy Saxifrage or Kidneywort; or (sic) Hardknot and Wrenose, by Buckbarrow-well. Scandix odorata. Sweet Cicely or Sweet fern; in hedges and orchards, frequent. Schoenus albus. White flowered Rush-grass; in marshes, plentifully. --- compressus. Compressed Bastard Cyperus or flat spiked Cyperus-rush; in boggy marshes. --- ferrugineus. Broad bastard Cyperus or Dwarf marsh Rush; in turfy bogs. --- mariscus. Long-rooted Bastard Cyperus; on the edge of Conzic Tarn near Kendal, plentifully. Sedum Anglicum. English Stonecrop; on rocks, Winander meer, and on a few rocks in Lonsdale and at Rydale. Serapias latifolia γ palustris. A variety of Broad-leaved Bastard Hellebore; in marshy places at Kendal. --- longifolia. White flowered Bastard Hellebore; in a wood near Askham hall. Siphthorpia europaea. Bastard Moneywort; in shady marshes and near springs and rivulets; about Lonsdale and Buckbarrow-well. Solidago cambrica. Welch Golden Rod; on the mountains. Sparganium simplex β natans. The least Bur-reed; in ponds, lakes, and gently-flowing rivers: everywhere. Splachnum vasculosum. Common Splachnum; mountainous and moist heaths everywhere. Statice Armeria. Common Thrift or Sea Gilly-flower; in mountainous meadows and on rocks and in meadows near the sea. Stellaria nemorum. Broad-leaved Stitchwort or Great mountain Chickweed; in moist woods and hedges and in banks of rivers everywhere. Stipa pennata. Feather-grass; on the limestone rocks hanging over Lonsdale. Sisymbrium Nasturtium β. A variety of Watercresse; in Helsington-Lath dales near Kendal. Taxus baccata. Eugh-tree; on the mountains. Thlaspi Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (167) Thlaspi alpestre. Perfoliate Bastard Cress; on the moist limestone pastures. Tragopogon caeruleum. Purple Goat's-beard; in meadows and pastures: at Old Hall. Tremella utriculata. Bladder Tremella; in mountainous rivulets. Trichomanes tunbrigense. Tunbridge Trichomanes; on Buzzardrough Crag near Wrenose among the moss on the mountains, frequent. Trientalis europaea. Chickweed Winter-green; in woods and on turfy heaths. Trifolium filiforme. Small Trefoil; in Kendal Fell. Trollius Europaeus. Globe-flower or Locker-gowlons; in moist lands. Vaccinium Oxycoccus. Cranberry; on the boggy mosses about Kendal. --- Vitis Idaea. Red Whorts or Whortle berries; in marshy heaths and mountainous places. --- uliginosum. Great Bilberry-bush; in Whinfield forest. Valeriana Locusta β. A variety of Lambs Lettice or Corn Sallet; in Helsington-Lath dales near Kendal. Veronica scutellata. Narrow-leaved Water Speedwell; on Brigstear-moss. Vicia sylvatica. Tufted Wood Vetch; about Kirby Lonsdale bridge, and by the side of Patton beck near Kendal. Viola grandiflora. Yellow Violet or Pansies; in the mountainous pastures. Viscum album. Misseltoe; on apple trees: in Brigstear and Lyth. Utricularia minor. Lesser-hooded Milfoil; in turfy bogs. --- vulgaris. Common-hooded Milfooil; on Brigstear-moss. Ulva pruniformis. Plumb Laver; in alpine lakes. CUMBER- Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (169) Cumberland Pages 169-210 are Cumberland. {marginal = Cumberland; CAMDEN} CUMBERLAND. {marginal = Cumberland, extent; placename, Cumberland} BEFORE Westmorland to the west lies Cumberland, the last county of England this way, being bounded on the north by Scotland, washed on the south and west by the Irish sea, and on the east joining to Northumberland above Westmorland. It takes its name from its inhabitants, who were true and genuine Britans, and in their own language called themselves Kumbri and Kambri. History informs us, that the Britans long resided here during the Saxon tyrany; and Marianus himself says the same thing, and calls this country Cumbrorum terra; not to mention the British names continually recurring as Caer-luel, Caer-dronoc, Pen-rith, Pen-rodoc &c. which plainly bespeak this, and are the strongest proof of my assertion. The country, though it may seem colder by reason of its northern situation and rough with mountains, affords an agreeable variety to travellers. For after the swelling rocks and thickest mountains pregnant with all kinds of wild-fowl succeed verdant hills of rich pasturage, covered with flocks, and below them extensive plains yielding plenty of corn. Besides all these the sea which beats against the coast maintains innumerable shoals of excellent fish, and seems to reproach the inhabitants for their inattention to fishery. {marginal = Copeland; Ravenglass; Irt, River; pearls / Copeland. Duden r. Millum. Ravenglass Esk r. Hardknott near Wrinose. Irt r.} The south part of this county is called Copeland and Coupland, because it rises in pointed mountains, which the British call Kopa, or as others think Copeland for Copperland, from its rich veins of copper. In this at the sandy mouth of the Duden, which separates it from Lancashire, is Millum, a castle of the antient family of the Hodlestons; whence the shore retiring to the north presents Ravenglass, a station where, I was told, were once two Roman inscriptions. It is conveniently environed by two rivers. Some will have it to have been called antiently Aven glass or the blue river, and tell many stories about king Eveling, who had a palace here. One of these rivers is named Esk, and rises at the foot of Hard knott, a very steep mountain, on whose summit were lately discovered huge stones and foundations of a castle, to the astonishment of the beholders, it being so steep as hardly to be ascended. Higher up the little river Irt runs into the sea, in which the shell-fish having by a kind of irregular motion [a] taken in the dew, which they are extremely fond of, are impregnated, and produce pearls, or, to use the poet's phrase, baccae concheae, shell-berries, which the inhabitants, when the tide is out, search for, and our jewellers buy of the poor for a trifle, and sell again at a very great price. Of these and the like Marbodeus [b] seems to speak in that line; Gignit & insignes antiqua Britannia baccas. Old Britain also famous berries yields. {marginal = St. Bees. Egremont c. Lords of Copeland. / St Bees Head; Egremont} The shore now advancing gradually to the west forms a little point, commonly called St. Bees for St. Bega's. This Bega was a devout and holy virgin of Ireland, who passed her life in solitude here, and to whose piety many miracles are ascribed, as taming a wild bull, and by her prayers covering with a great depth of snow the vallies and hill tops in the middle of summer. Scarce a mile from hence stands on a hill Egremont castle, the antient seat of William de Meschines, to whom Henry I. gave it "by the service of one knight's fee, that he should march at the king's command in the army against Wales and Scotland." He left a daughter married to William Fitz Duncan of the blood royal of Scotland, by whose daughter the estate came into the family of the Lucies. From them again by the Moltons and Fitz Walters the title of Egremont came to the Radcliffes earls of Sussex. It was however enjoyed for a considerable time by favour of Henry VI. by Thomas Percy, who had summons to parliament by the style of Thomas Percy of Egremont. {marginal = The shore fortified. Moresby. Picts holes. / Moresby; roman inscription} Here the shore goes on a little retreating, and it appears from the ruins of walls, that wherever the landing was easy it was fortified by the Romans. For it was the extreme boundary of the Roman empire, and this coast was particularly exposed to the Scots when they spread themselves like a deluge over this island from Ireland. Here is Moresby, a little village, where, from these fortifications, we may conclude was a station for ships. Here are many traces of antiquity in the vaults and foundations, many caverns called Picts holes, many fragments of inscriptions are here dug up, one of which has the name of LVCIVS SEVERINVS ORDINATVS; another COH. VIII. I saw there this altar, lately dug up, with a small horned statue of Silvanus: DEO SILVAN .. COH. II. LING CUI PRAEAES .. G. POMPEIVS M... SATVRNIN .. Deo Silvano Cohors 2da Lingonum Cui praeest G. Pompeius M. Saturninus. The following fragment was copied and transmitted to me by J. Fletcher lord of the place: ......... ......... OB PROSPE .. 169.a -- Oscitatione. 169. -- He wrote a Latin poem on jewels and precious stones, printed at Cologne 1539. Hoffm. Lex. RITA- Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (170) RITATEM CVLMINIS INSTITVTI. {continues last paragraph}{marginal = MORBIUM. Hay c.} But none has yet been found that determine it to have been MORBIUM, where the Equites Cataphractarii were stationed, which the name in some sort insinuates. Nor must I forget that in this neighbourhood I saw Hay Castle, respectable for its antiquity, which the people told me once belonged to the noble families of Moresby and Distinton. {marginal = Derwent r. Copper mines. Keswick. Skiddaw, an high mountain. Scruffell in Annandale. / Derwent, River; Borrowdale; copper mines; black lead mines; Derwent Water; Skiddaw; Keswick} Behind this the river Derwent hides itself in the sea. It rises in Borrodale, a valley surrounded with crooked hills, winds among the hills called Derwentfels, in which at Newlands and elsewhere were rich veins of copper with some little gold and silver, opened afresh in our time by Thomas Thurland and Daniel Hotchstetter, a German, being well known before as appears from the Close rolls of Henry III. n. 18. A remarkable suit about them was carried on between the late queen Elizabeth and Thomas Percy earl of Northumberland, on whose estate [c] the land was; but it was determined in favour of the queen, in regard of the royal prerogative and the veins of gold and silver in these mines. So far from truth is that observation of Cicero in his epistle to Atticus [d]: "This is certain, that there is not a grain of silver in the whole island of Britain." Nor would Caesar have said, that the Britans imported all the copper they used, had he known of these mines, these copper works not only being sufficient for all England, but great quantities of the copper exported every year. Here is also found in several places that metallic earth or hard glittering stone, which we call Black Lead, used by painters to draw lines and drawings in black and white [e]. Whether it be Dioscorides' Pnigitis [f], or Melanteria [g], or ochre burnt black by the heat of the earth, or totally unknown to the antients, I cannot determine, but shall leave it to others. The Derwent running among these hills spreads itself in a spacious lake, or as Bede [h] calls it a very large pool, in which are three islands: one of them has the seat of the knightly family of Ratcliffe, another was inhabited by German miners, and the third is supposed to have been that in which Bede [i] relates that St. Herbert led a solitary life. On the edges of this lake in very rich land, surrounded by dewy hills, and defended from the north winds by Skiddaw a very high mountain, lies Keswicke, a small market town, many years famous for the copper works [k] as appears from a charter of king Edward IV. and at present inhabited by miners [l]. Its market was obtained of Edward I. by Thomas de Derwentwater lord of the place, from whom it came by inheritance to the Ratcliffes. Skiddaw the mountain before-mentioned rears its double head so high among the clouds like Parnassus, and looks towards Scruffell, a mountain in Scotland, as if it meant to rival it; by the ascent or descent of the clouds from both which the inhabitants draw presages of the weather, and have this common proverb, --- If Skiddaw hath a cap Scruffell wots full well of that. And that other of the height of these and two other mountains in these parts, Skiddaw, Lawellin, and Casticand Are the highest hills in all England. {marginal = Cokar r. Cokarmouth. Pap castle. Guasmoric. St. Ambrose. A font. Bridkirk. / Cockermouth; Papcastle} From hence the Derwent sometimes in a narrow, sometimes in a broad channel proceeds with rapidity to the north to meet the Cokar. These two rivers at their confluence almost surround Cokarmouth, a plentiful market town and castle of the earls of Northumberland. The town is handsomely built, but stands low between two hills, on one of which is the church, and on the other overagainst it the strong castle, over whose gate are the arms of Molton, Humfranville, Lucy, and Percy. Opposite to this two miles on the other side the river lies the shell of an old castle called Pap castle, which several monuments prove to have been of Roman antiquity. Whether this was Guasmoric which Nennius says king Vortigern built near Luguballium, and the old Britans called Palmecastle, I do not presume to determine. Among other monuments of antiquity here was found a large vase of greenish stone, handsomely carved with small figures; whether designed for the purpose of washing, or as St. Ambrose calls it sacrarium regenerationis, that laver of regeneration, for which use it now serves at the neighbouring town of Bridkirk, q.d. St. Brigit's church, I shall not pronounce. We find fonts adorned with the figures of saints in order to set forth their example to the imitation of the persons baptized [m]. On this besides figures are these foreign characters: See Pl.VIII. fig.I. What they mean or to what nation they belong I do not take upon me to say. Let the learned determine. The first and eighth are not very unlike the character used by Christians after the time of Constantine for the name of Christ. The rest in form but not in power come nearest those which are to be seen on the tomb of Gormon king of Denmark, at Jelling in Denmark, as published by Petrus Lindenbrogius 1591. {marginal = Arms of the Lucies and Percies.} The towns last-mentioned, together with a 4th part of the barony of Egremont, Wigton, Leusewater, Aspatric, Uldal, &c. the fine estate of Maud Lucy (the heiress of Anthony Molton or de Lucy her brother [n]), were by her given to Henry Percy earl of Northumberland her husband; and though she had no children by him she left the Percy family her heirs, on condition they quartered with their own arms those of the Lucies, 3 fish called Lucies in a field G. or to borrow the words of the original deed, "on condition that they bore for their arms G. 3 Lucies quarterly with the arms of Percy O a lion Az. and the condition enforced by a fine." The Derwent, afterwards in one united 170.c -- at Derwent fells. 170.d -- IV. 16. 170.e -- monochromata. 170.f -- Lib. v. c.177. 170.g -- Lib. v. c.118. 170.h -- Eccl. Hist. IV. 29. 170.i -- Eccl. H. IV. c.29. Vit. Cuthb. c.28. 170.k -- aeraria sectura. 170.l -- Who have their smelting-house by Derwentside, which with his forcible stream and their ingenious inventions serveth them in notable stead for easy bellows works, hammer works, forge works, and sawing of boards, not without admiration of those that behold it. Holland. 170.m -- As saith Pontius Paulinus. For in the first plantation of Christianity among the Gentiles such only as were of full age after they were instructed in the principles of Christian religion were admitted to baptism, and that but twice a year at Easter and Whitsontide, except upon urgent necessity; at which time those who were to be baptised were attired in white garments, exorcised, and exsuffled with sundry ceremonies, which I leave to the learned in Christian antiquities. Id. 170.n -- Burn, II. 77. stream, Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (171) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = Wirkinton. Culwen, commonly Curwen. / Workington} stream, throws itself into the ocean at Wirkinton, famous for a salmon fishery. It is now the seat of the antient knightly family of the Curwens, who derive their descent from Gospatrick earl of Northumberland, and took their surname by agreement from Culwen, a family of Galloway, whose heir they married. They have here a noble mansion like a castle, and from them, if I may be allowed to mention it without imputation of vanity, I derive my descent by the mother's side. {marginal = roman wall} From hence some have supposed a wall was carried for near four miles at proper places to defend the coast, by Stilico, in the reign of Honorius and Arcadius, when the Scots from Ireland infested this shore. For thus Britain speaks of herself in Claudian [p]: Me quoque vicinis pereuntem gentibus, inquit, Munivit Stilico, totam cum Scotus Hibernem Movit, & infesto spumavit remige Thetis. Me Stilicho by neighbouring nations sore distrest, Defended well with time the Scotish rage Hibernè moved, while with their hostile war Old ocean foam'd. {marginal = Ehen r. Ireby. ARBEIA. / Ireby; Arbeia; roman inscription} There still remain ruins of walls at the mouth of the Elen or Elne, as it is now called, which, after a short course, has at its source Ierby, no inconsiderable market town. This I take to have been ARBEIA, where the Barcarii Tigriensis were stationed, and at its mouth Elenborough or the Burgh on the Elen, where was formerly quartered the cohors prima Dalmatarum with their officer [q]. It stood on a high hill commanding a distant view of the Irish sea; but corn now grows where the town was, and its traces plainly appear; the antient vaults are uncovered and many altars, inscriptions, and statues are dug up here. All which that worthy man J. Senhous, in whose grounds they are found, has carefully preserved and arranged in his house. In the middle of the yard is a most beautiful square altar, of a reddish stone, elegantly carved in the antient manner, about five feet high, and having an inscription in fair characters, a view of which and each of its sides I shall here insert from a drawing by sir R. Cotton, of Connington, knt. a great searcher into antiquity, when we travelled together over these parts to illustrate our native country with the highest entertainment in the year 1599. I cannot help expressing my gratitude to the worthy gentleman just mentioned for his hospitable treatment, and the great care which this learned admirer of antient literature takes to preserve these inscriptions, which are soon broken to pieces by the ignorant people here, and put to other uses to the great detriment of these studies. See Pl. VIII. fig. 2, 3. {marginal = Decuriones.} Every thing is perfectly plain on this inscription, except that in the last line but one ET and AEDES are expressed in abbreviations. The end is imperfect. Perhaps we are to restore it thus DECVRIONVM ORDINEM RESTITVIT, &c. The Decuriones were in the Municipia the same as the Senatores at Rome and in the colonies; so called because they discharged the offices of the Curia or Court, whence also they were styled Curiales, from their conducting civil affairs [*]. {marginal = VOLANTIUM. Pagan altars. Pl.VIII. F.4.} On the upper ledge of the back part of this altar we may observe these words VOLANTII VIVAS, which give me no small difficulty, nor can I make anything of them, unless they imply a wish of the Decuriones, knights, and commons, who constitued the Municipium, for G. Cornelius Peregrinus, who restored the house, temple, and Decuriones, that so beneficent a man might enjoy life at Volantium. Hence if I may be allowed to conjecture, I should suppose the antient name of this place to have been VOLANTIVM. Below are carved instruments of sacrifice, a hatchet, and a knife. On the left side a mallet and praefericulum. On the right a patera, a dish, and a pear, if I am right, or as others think a water-pot: for these were vessels for sacrificing purposes, and likewise others, as the Simpulum, Censer, Futile, sacerdotal bonet, &s. which we see on the sides of other altars in these parts. The 2d altar here annexed was dug up at Old Carlisle, and is now in the house of the Barhouses at Ilkirk, inscribed with letters of the complicated form, happily expressed by the engraver, which it should seem are to be read thus: {marginal = ; #x002A; sc. tribu. under Commodus A.D. 193.} Jovi Optimo Maximo, Ala Augusta ob virtutem appellata cui praest Publius AElius Publii filius Sergia [*] Magnus de Mursa ex Pannonia inferiore praefectus Aproniano (et) Bradua Consulibus. {marginal = Pl.VIII. f.5.} The 3d altar is inscribed to the topical deity Belatucadrus, and to be read thus: Belatucadro Julius Civilis Optio (i.e. commander of the watch) votum solvit libens merito. {marginal = Pl.VIII. f.6.} There is no difficulty with the 4th altar, which is to this effect: Dis Deabusque Publius Posthumius Acilianus praefectus cohortis primae Delmatarum. These kind of altars (to mention the antient rites which our most holy religion has long since abolished), as well as the victims and sacrificers used to be crowned with leaves, and offerings of incense and wine made at them, sacrifices offered, and the altars themselves anointed. Of their demolition as Christianity prevailed, Prudentius [r] thus sings: Exercere manum non poenitet, & lapis illic Si stetit antiquus quem cingere suerverat error Fasciolis aut galline pulmone rigare, Frangitur --- None grudge the helping hand, if chance a stone Of antient date stood there, whom wont to crown Was error once with garlands, or to stain With chicken's blood. They hurl it down amain. I also saw the following inscriptions here: {marginal = ; #x002A; Publius filius.} PRO SA ... ... ... ANTONINI AV. PII F ... P. AVLVS P. [*]F. PALATINA [sc. tribu] POSTHUMIVS ACILIANVS PRAEF. COH. I. DALMATAR. {marginal = ; #x002A; Diis manibus. ; #x002A; Faciendum curavit.} [*] D. M. INGENVI. AN. X IVL. SIMPLEX PATER [*] F. C. 171.* -- Ifid. IX. c.4. 171.p -- De laudib. Stilic. II. 250. 171.q -- The near resemblance of the name Elenburough with Olenacum, where the first Herculean wing lay in garrison in the time of Theodosius the younger, is some motive to think that this was that Olenacum; but yet I dare not affirm it. Holland. 171.r -- [blank] M. D. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (172) {continues last paragraph}D.M. MORI REGIS FILII HEREDES EIVS SVBSTITVE RVNT VIX A. LXX HIC EXSEGERE FATA ... ENVS SC GERMA ... ... S REGVIX. AN. ... S VIX AN ... ... IX ... D.M. LVCA VIX ANN IS XX D.M. IVLIA MARTIM A, VIX. AN. XII. IIID. XX H Here also is to be seen this stone, handsomely carved, on which two winged Genii support a wreath as below: See Pl.VIII. fig.7. The inscription is to be read, Victoriae Augustorum Dominorum nostrorum. {marginal = MORICAMBE. Home Cultrain. Michael Scotus. Waver r. Wiza r. Old Carlisle. CASTRA EXPLORATUM. ALA AUGUSTA. / Moricambe Bay; Holme Coultram Abbey; Old Carlisle; Olenacum; roman inscription} The shore proceeding strait from hence, presently forms such a bending winding bay, that it seems to be MORICAMBE, which Ptolemy places hereabouts. The situation and name of the place agree; for the aestuary bends in, and Moricambe signifies in British crooked sea. On this David I. king of Scotland founded Holme, or as it is commonly called Holme Cultrain abbey; and Vulstey castle was built by the abbots in the neighbourhood to secure their treasure, books, and records, from the sudden inroads of the Scots. In this castle are said to be concealed a prey to the moths the works of Michael Scotus, who professed a religious life here about the year 1290, so deeply immersed in mathematical studies and sciences, that he obtained the character of a magician with the vulgar, whose foolish credulity reported him to have wrought wonders. Below this monastery falls into the aestuary the little river Waver, after receiving the Wiza another little stream, at whose source the poor remains of an antient city stand as monuments that nothing in this world is exempt from the lot of mortality. This is now called by the inhabitants Old Carlisle: what was its antient name I know not, unless it was CASTRA EXPLORATUM [*], The distance in Antoninus (who does not take the shortest way, but recites the more considerable places), agrees both from Bulgium and Luguvallum. The situation was very convenient for discovering an enemy; for it stands on a hill of considerable height, affording a good view of the country all round. Certain it is, that the wing, which, for its valor, was called AUGUSTA and AUGUSTA GORDIANA was here in the time of Gordian, from the following inscriptions which I saw in the neighbourhood of this place at Ilkirk: {marginal = ; #x002A; Jovi Optimo Maximo; ; #x002A; VIRTVT.; ; #x002A; FI; ; #x002A; INGM LING. N.; Phil Trans. 357.} [*] I. O. M. ALA. AVG. OB [*] ... RTVT. APPEL. CVI PRAEEST. TIB. CL. TIB.F.P. [*] [*] IN ... G ... N JVSTINVS PRAEF. FVSCIANO II. SILANO II COS D. M. MABLI NIVS SEC VNDVS EQVIS ALE AVG STE STIP. {marginal = ; #x002A; [EX]RIAE[ ]; ; #x002A; TVSDRO} I.O.M. PRO SALVTE IMPERATORIS M. ANTONI GORDIANI. P. F. INVICTI AVG ET SABINAE TR [*] IAE TRANQVILE CONIVGI EIVS TO TAQVE DOMV DIVIN. EORVM A- LA AVG. GORDIA. OB VIRTVTEM APPELLATA POSVIT: CVI PRAEEST AEMILIVS CRISPINVS PRAEF. EQQ. NATVS IN PRO AFRICA DE [*] TVIDRO SVB CVR NONNII PH LIPPI LEG. AVG. PROPRETO ... ATTICO ET PRETEXTATO COSS [s] {marginal = Wigton. Thoresby.} From hence were brought the altars that stand by the road side at Wigton, having on their sides a simpulum, a futile [t], a mallet, a patera, and other instruments of sacrifice: but the letters are entirely worn out by time. Not far from hence was dug up by the military way a pillar of rough stone, now at Thoresby, with the inscription [u]: IMP CAES M. IVL. PHILIPPO PIO FELI CI AVG ET M. IVL. PHI LIPPO NOBILIS SIMO CAES TR. P. COS ... This was likewise copied for me by that most learned minister Oswald Dikes, now preserved in his brother T. Dike's house at Wardal. {marginal = ; #x002A; For Aram ex vota.} DEO SANCTO BELA TVCADRO AVRELIVS DIATOVA [*] ARAE X VOTO POSVIT LL.MM. [x] Another similar isncription in honour of a topical deity has also been found: DEO CEAIIO AVR MRTI ET MS ERVRACIO PRO SE ET SVIS. V. S. LL. M. besides great numbers of small images, statues on horses, eagles, lions, Ganimedes, and many other evidences of antiquity continually coming to light. A little higher up runs out a small cape, and below it lies a large aestuary, called by the Scots Solway 172.* -- Concerning the Areani see hereafter under the Picts wall. 172.s -- This votive altar also of a rude stone was erected for the happy health of the emperor Gordian the 3d and his wife Furia Sabina Tranquilla and their whole family, by the troops of horsemen surnamed Augusta Gordiana, when Aemilius Crispinus, a native of Africa, governed the same under Nonnius Philippus, lieutenant-general of Britain, in the year of Christ 243, as appeareth by the consuls therein specified. Holland. 172.t -- Not as Gibson reads Fusile, and translates it a melter. Futile he explained before an open pot. 172.u -- To the honour of Philip the emperor and his son who flourished about the year of our Lord 248. Holland. 172.x -- Another such inscription was found near Brougham castle in later times. (Gale MS.). frith, Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (173) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = BLATUM BULGIUM. Bulness. Beginning of the Wall. Subterraneous trees. / Blatum Bulgium; Bowness-on-Solway; Hadrian's Wall} frith, now dividing England and Scotland as formerly the Roman province and the Picts. On this little cape stands that antient town BLATUM BULGIUM (perhaps from the British word Bulch which signifies separation or division), from which Antoninus as from the furthest point and boundary of the province begins his Itinera through Britain. The inhabitants now call it Bulnesse, and it is a very mean village, though it has fortification, and as evidences of antiquity, besides traces of streets and ruined walls, a harbour filled up, and a road said to have run hence along the coast to Elenborrow. A mile beyond this, as may be seen by the foundations when the tide is out, begin those famous Roman works the Vallum and Wall, formerly the boundary of the Roman province, erected to keep out the barbarians, who, in these parts, were continually, as the writer says [y], barking at the Roman empire. I was at first surprised at their raising such great fortifications here, when there is so large an aestuary for near eight miles; but I find now, that when the tide is out the water is so low, that robbers and marauders might easily ford over. The roots of trees, covered with sand, at a little distance from the shore, and often uncovered by the wind at ebb tide, prove that the form of this coast has undergone an alteration. I know not whether it is worth while to mention here the stories of subterraneous trees without branches frequently dug up here, discovered by the dew, which is observed never to fall on the ground under which they lie. {marginal = Drumburgh c. Burgh on Sands. 1307. Morvilles called de Burgh upon Sands. Liber Inq. / Drumburgh; Burgh by Sands; Edward I Monument} Lower down on the same frith, more inland, is Drumbough castle, formerly belonging to the lords Dacre, and antiently a Roman station. Some, contrary to all distance, will have it to have been CASTRA EXPLORATORUM. There was also another Roman station, which has now changed its name to Burgh upon sands, whence the neighbouring country is called the Barony of Burgh, which Meschines lord of Cumberland gave to Robert de Trivers, and from him it came to the Morvilles, of whom the last Hugh left a daughter, who, by her second husband Thomas de Molton had Thomas Molton, lord of this place, whose son Thomas, by marriage with the heiress of Hubert de Vaulx, added Gillesland to his other estates, all which came at length to Ranulph de Dacre by marriage with Maud Molton. But nothing has rendered this little town so remarkable as the immature death of Edward I. who here ended his days after triumphing over all his enemies: a most renowned monarch, in whose gallant soul the spirit of God found an abode worthy of it to match the state of royalty not only with courage and wisdom, but with personal comeliness and dignity of body; and whom fortune in the prime of life exercised in many wars and most difficult events of state, while she was training him for the British sceptre, which, after he came to the crown, he so managed by the reduction of Wales and conquest of Scotland, that he may justly be accounted one of the glories of Britain. {marginal = Solway frith. ITUNA. Eiden r. / Solway Firth} Below this Burgh, in the frith itself, the inhabitants say the Scots and English fleets engaged, and, on the retreat of the tide [z] their cavalry, which seems as extraordinary as what Pliny [a] relates with astonishment of a similar place in Caramania. This frith is called Solway frith by both nations from Solway a Scotch town on it. But Ptolemy more properly calls it ITUNA. For the noble river Eiden, which waters Westmoreland and the inner parts of this county, pours the largest quantity of water into it, still mindful of the obstruction it met with from the heaps of Scottish bodies in 1216 drowned in it in their return from England loaded with spoil, when it whelmed that band of marauders in its stream [*]. {marginal = Eimot r. Ulsewater. Dacre c. Barons Dacre. / Eden, River; Dacre Castle} The river Ituna, or Eiden, in its way to this county, receives from the west the river Eimot from the lake Ulse before-mentioned, near whose bank, on the little river Dacor, stands Dacre castle, well known to us for giving name to the family of the barons Dacre [b], and mentioned by Bede [c] as having in his time a monastery, as also by Malmsbury [d], because Constantine, king of Scotland, and Eugenius, king of Cumberland, there put themselves and their kingdoms under the protection of Athelstan the Saxon. {marginal = Artur's table. Penrith. Old Penrith. PATRIANAE / Penrith; Old Penrith; roman inscription} Not much higher, and but a little way from the confluence of the Eimot and Loder, where is a round fortification called by the inhabitants Arthur's table [e], stands Penrith, q.d. if derived from the British language, Red Head, or Hill: for the soil and the stones of which it is built are of a red colour; but it is commonly called Perith. It is a small market town of some note, defended on the west by a royal castle, repaired t. Henry VI. with the ruins of the neighbouring Roman fort called Maburg, has a very handsome church, a spacious market place, with a wooden market house for the use of those who assemble there, adorned with bears and ragged staffs, the arms of the earls of Warwick. It belonged formerly to the bishops of Durham, but bishop Anthony Bec growing insolent through his excessive wealth, Edward I. as we read in the register of Durham "took from him Werk in Tividale, Perith, and the church of Simondburne." For the use, however, of the town, W. Stricland, bishop of Carlisle, of a famous family in these parts, cut, at his own expence, a chanel from Pete-rill, a rivulet, on whose bank is Plumpton park [f], a large park appropriated by the kings of England antiently for deer, but wisely disposed of by Henry VIII. for men's habitations, being almost on the borders of England and Scotland. Near this I saw the great remains of a ruined town, which they, from its neighbourhood, called Old Perith, and I should think PETRIANAE. That the Ala Petriana was here appears from a fragment of an old inscription erected by Ulpius Trajanus, a veteran of the Ala Petriana, which, together with others that I copied here, I have subjoined: {marginal = ; #x002A; annos.} D.M. AICETVOS MATER VIXIT A [*] XXXXV ET LATTIO FIL. VIX A XII. LIMISIVS CONIV. ET FILIAE PIENTISSIMIS POSVIT. 173.* -- Hist.Mailros. 173.y -- Ammianus Marcellinus 173.z -- reverso aestu, when the tide came in. G. which would make the battle a real wonder, whereas there was nothing extraordinary in their fighting on the sands at the ebb. H. reverso is into the sea. 173.a -- N.H. VI.26. 173.b -- See a more particular account of them in Hurstmoncaeux, c. Sussex, vol.I. 202. 173.c -- E.H. IV.22. Lel. Coll. II. 152. 173.d -- de gest. reg. Ang. II. 27.b. 173.e -- See before in Westmoreland, p.162. 173.f -- antiently called Haia de Plumpton or the Inclosure of Plumpton. ... ... Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (174) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = ; #x002A; faciendum procuravit.} ... ... ... GADVNO VLP. TRAI EM. AL. PET MARTIVS [*] F. P. C. {marginal = ; #x002A; cohorte.; #x002A; dum.} D. M. FL. MARTIO SEN. IN [*] C. CARVETIOR QUESTORIO VIXIT AN XXXXV MARTIOLA FILIA ET HERES PONEN [*] ... ... CVRAVIT {marginal = ; #x002A; fratri et filiae titulum posuit} D.M. CROTILO GERMANVS VIX ANIS XXVI GRECA VIX ANIS IIII VIND[ ]CIANVS [*] FRA. ET FIL. TIT. PO. {marginal = Great and Little Salkeld. Long Megg, and her daughters. / Long Meg and Her Daughters} The Eden, having now received the Eimot, runs by obscure villages and castles northward through both Salkelds. At the lesser stands a kind of circle of 77 stones, each ten feet high, and before them at the entrance a single one 15 feet high. The common people hereabouts call this Long Megg, and the rest her daughters, and within the circle are two heaps of stones, under which they say the bodies of the slain were buried. And indeed it is probable enough that this is a monument of some victory. {marginal = Kirk Oswald. Armanthwayte. Corby. Wetheral. VIROSIDUM. Warwic. Linstock. OLENACUM. Peterill and Caud rivers. Graystock. / Kirkoswald; Warwick; Virosidum; Olenacum; Greystoke} From hence the Eden runs by Kirk Oswald, dedicated to St. Oswald, formerly the property of that Hugh Morvill, who, with his accomplices, murdered Thomas archbishop of Canterbury, in memory of which fact the sword which he then used was long preserved here; thence by Armanthwayte, a castle of the Skeltons: Corby, a castle of the noble and antient family of the Salkelds, which received great addition of wealth by marriage with the heiress of Rosgill: Wetheral, formerly a small monastery cell to the abbey of St. Mary at York, where are certain cells cut out of a rock for places of retreat [f]. Thence by Warwic, which I take to be VIROSIDUM, where the 6th cohort of the Nervii was formerly stationed on the wall against the Picts and Scots, and in the last age a strong stone bridge was built at the expence of the Salkelds and Richmonds: Linstock, a castle of the bishops of Carlisle, in the barony of Crosby, which barony Waltheof, son of earl Gospatric and lord of Allerdale, gave to the church of Carlisle, and which I take to be called by contraction from OLENACUM. For that place seems to have been on the wall where the first Ala Herculea served against the barbarians. Eden, now ready to discharge itself into its frith, receives two rivers at once, the Peterill and the Caud, which run almost parallel to each other from the south. On the Peterill, besides PETRIANAE beforementioned, stands Greistocke, formerly a castle of the sometime illustrious family, which derive their descent from one Ranulph Fitz Walter, of whose descendants William de Graystock married Mary daughter and coheir of Roger de Merley, lord of Morpath, by whom she had a son John, who, having no issue, obtained leave of Edward I. to convey his estate to his aunt's son Ranulph de Granthorpe, son of William, whose posterity, after having been long very considerable, became extinct about the reign of Henry VII. and their estate passed by marriage to the barons Dacre: but the two heiresses general of the last baron Dacre were married to the sons of Thomas Howard, late duke of Norfolk. {marginal = Copper mines. Caudebec. Highyate. Rose c. CONGAVATA / Caldbeck; copper mines; Rose Castle; Congavata} On the Caude, besides the copper mines at Caudebeck, is Highyate, a castle of the Richmonds, and a neat castle of the bishops of Carlisle, called The Rose Castle, which also seems to have been CONGAVATA, where the second cohort of the Lergi kept guard; for Congavata signifies in British the valley on the Gavata, now contracted into Caude. But the precise situation of this place I cannot yet point out. {marginal = CARLISLE. LUGUVALLUM. Lugus or Lucus, its meaning among the Gauls and Britans. Lugdunum, Lucotecia, or Lutitia in France. / Carlisle; Luguvalium; placename, Carlisle} Between the confluence of these rivers in the best and by far the most pleaseant spot, stands the very antient city of Carlisle, defended on the north by the Eden, on the east by the Peterill, on the west by the Caude, and besides all these natural fortifications with strong stone walls, a castle, and a citadel, as it is called. It is of a somewhat oblong form running from west to east. On the west is the castle of considerable extent, which, by his arms, appears to have been repaired by Richard III. Almost in the centre of the city rises the cathedral church, whose upper part is of modern erection in a handsome style; but the lower part much older. On the east the citadel built and fortified by king Henry VIII. serves for a defence. The Romans and Britans called this place LUGU-VALLUM and LUGU-BALLIUM, or LUGU-BALLUM [g], the Saxons, according to Bede Luell [h]. Ptolomy, as some think LEUCOPIBIA, Nennius Caer Lualid, the silly prophecies of the Britons Duball's City, we Carlisle, and modern Latin writers Carleolum. For our historians all agree that Luguballia and Carleolum were the same. In tracing its etymology, what infinite pains have been taken by our countryman Leland [i], who at last was forced to believe that the Eden was called Lug, and that Ballum comes from vallis, thus making Lugu-vallum, the valley on the Lug. If I may be allowed to offer a conjecture, I should suppose Vallum, and Vallia derived from the well known Roman military Vallum, which runs be- (sic) the city, it being called by Antoninus LUGU-VALLUM AD VALLUM. This Picts wall afterwards erected on the Vallum of Severus is still visible at Stanwicks, a little village, a little beyond the river Eden, over which is now a wooden bridge, and crosses the river overagainst the castle, where in the bed of the river are still remains of it, huge stones. Pomponius Mela [k] tells us, that Lugus or Lucus signified a tower among the antient Celts, who spoke the same language with the Britans. What Antoninus calls LUGU AUGUSTI he names TURRIS AUGUSTI, so that Lugu-vallum is and signifies the tower or fort on the wall. If the French had derived from this source Lugdunum quasi the tower on the hill, and Lucotecia [†] (for so the antients called what we call Lutetia) quasi fair tower, as the words mean in British, they would have perhaps formed a better etymology than that which derives the latter from Lutum (clay), the former from Lugdus, a fabulous king. That this was a place of consequence under the Romans ap- 174.* -- E.H. IV. c.27. 174.† -- The old Itinerary lately published says, that Lugdunum signifies desideratus mons, a desirable mountain. 174.f -- In this dangerous country. H. 174.g -- Luguvallium Ant. Luguvalum Rav. Lagubami. Ib. Vat. Lugabalia. Malmsb. Legubalia. Flor. Wor. 174.h -- Vit. Cuthb. c.27. 174.i -- Com. in Cygn. Cantio v. Luguballia 174.k -- [blank] pears Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (175) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = roman inscription} [ap]pears plainly from the various evidences of antiquity frequently dug up, and its great renown at that time. Even after the ravages of the Picts and Scots it preserved some of its antient splendour and was accounted a city. For A.D. 619 Egfrid king of Northumberland, gave it to S. Cuthbert in the following words [l]: "I have given also the city called Luguballia with 15 miles around it." At which time it was also walled in. "The townspeople," says Bede [m], "brought Cuthbert to see the walls of the city, and a fountain in it built in an extraordinary manner by the Romans." That saint, according to the register of Durham, "settled there a congregation of nuns, and appointed an abbess, and founded schools there." It was afterwards greatly ruined by the Danes, and lay buried in its ashes near 200 years, till it began to recover itself under the favour of king William Rufus, who erected new buildings in it, built the castle, and settled a colony first of Flemings (whom he afterwards prudently removed into Wales) and then of the Southern English. "Then," as Malmesbury [n] writes, "was discovered a Roman Salon or Triclinium of stone, arched over, unhurt by time or fire, having in front this inscription: MARII VICTORIAE." Some have supposed this Marius to be Arviragus the Britan: others contend for his being that Marius who was elected emperor in opposition to Gallienus, and is reported by historians to have been so strong, that instead of veins in his fingers he had sinews [o]. I am told, however, that some copies instead of MARII VICTORIAE have MARTI VICTORI, which perhaps may be more approved by other critics and come nearer the truth. Luguballia being now grown populous, had, as we learn from our writers, its own earl or more properly lord, Radulphus Meschines or de Micenis, from whom descended the earls of Chester, and being at the same time advanced by Henry I. to an episcopal see had for its first bishop Athulpus. This the monks of Durham say was prejudicial to their church. "When Ranulphus, say they, bishop of Durham, was banished, and the church had no defender, certain bishops united Carleil and Tividale to their dioceses." How the Scots made themselves masters of this city in the reign of Stephen, and Henry II. recovered it, how Henry III. committed the castle of Carlisle, and the earldom to Robert de Vipont, how A.D. 1292, it was destroyed by fire, together with the cathedral and suburbs, how Robert Brus of Scotland A.D. 1315, beseiged it in vain, and many other particulars are related at large in our histories [p]. It may not, however, be amiss to add two inscriptions which I saw here; the first in the house of Thomas Aglionby near the citadel, but of the more barbarous age: {marginal = ; #x002A; Tumulum.; #x002A; Carrisima} DIIS MANIBV S MARCI TROIANI AVGVSTINIANI TVM[*] FA CIENDVM CVRAVIT A FEL. AMILLVSIMA CONIVX* KARISS Near which is also the figure of a horseman in armour with a spear. The other in a larger and fairer character is in the garden of Thomas Middleton: LEG. VI. VIC. P. F. G. P. R. F. which I read Legio Sexta, Victrix, Pia, Felix. The rest I leave to others to explain. {marginal = Andrew Harcla, earl of Carlisle. Tho. Avensbury.} The only earl of Carlisle was Andrew de Harcla, whom king Edward II. to borrow the words of the original record, "for his good and faithful service against Thomas earl of Lancaster and his adherents in subduing the king's enemies and subjects, and bringing them prisonors to the king, invested with the rank and title of earl of Carlisle by girding on his sword." He afterwards traiterously and basely broke his engagements to his country and sovereign, and, being taken, suffered the ignominy due to his treason, "being degraded by having his spurs chopt off with a hatchet, his belt ungirt, his boots and gloves pulled off, and being then drawn, hanged, beheaded and quartered." I shall now take my leave of Luguballia (which stands in 20° 31′ of longitude and 54° 55′ north latitude), with these lines of J. Johnston in praise of it. CARLEOLUM Romanis quondam statio tutissima signis, Ultimaque Ausonidum meta labosque ducum, E specula late vicinos prospicit agros, Hinc ciet & pugnas, arcet & inde metus. Gens acri ingenio, studiis asperrima belli, Doctaque bellaci figere tela manu. Scotorum reges quondam tenuere beati; Nunc iterum priscis additur imperiis. Quid, Romane putas extrema hic limina mundi? Mundum retro alium surgere nonne vides? Sit vidisse satis: docuit nam Scotica virtus Immensis animis hic posuisse modum. CARLISLE Of yore the Roman army's safe retreat, Bound of their conquests and their chieftain's toils, She views the extensive country from her height, Alarms, defends, and seizes on the spoils. Her active sons enur'd to martial feat, And skill'd to hurl the javelin at the foe, She once the Scottish happy monarchs' seat, Now to her former sov'reigns back must go. In vain the Roman boasts that erst he found Earth's limit here. See other worlds arise To mock his distant view. Ambition's bound By Scottish valour fixt unalter'd lies. {marginal = Rowcliffe. Netherby. / Rockcliffe; Esk, River; Kershope Burn} Crossing the Eden now one sees Rowcliff near the bank, a little castle, built by the lords Dacres not long since for the defence of their property. Above this the two rivers Esk and Leven fall with united streams with one common mouth as it were into Eden frith. The Esk comes from Scotland, but for some miles owns itself a subject of England, and receives the river Kirsop, where the English and Scots lately separated not so much by the river as their mutual fears gave ample proof of the great qualities of both nations. On this river where the little village of Netherby presents to view a few poor cottages are such extraordinary and considerable re- 175.l -- See in Sim. Dunelm. p.5. inter x Script. the donation at large. 175.m -- Vit. Cuthb. c.27. 175.n -- De gest. pont III. Ptol. 175.o -- Treb. Pollio in vit. ejus 175.p -- John de Eversden. He was a monk of St. Edmund's Bury, and sent as proxy for the abbot to the parliament at Carlisle 1307, and died 1336. His Chronicle remains in MS. among the Norfolk MSS. in the Heralds college. Tanner, Bib. Brit. 271. mains Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (176) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = AESICA. The Grahams. / Aesica; roman inscription} [re]mains of an antient city, that together with the name of the river which runs by it, lead one to suspect that here was AESICA, where the Tribune of the first cohort of Astures antiently kept guard against the barbarians. Here lives at present the head of the family of the Grayhams, distinguished by its valour among the borderers: and in the wall of the house may be read this inscription, erected in memory of the emperor Hadrian by the Legio II. Augusta: IMP. CAES. TRA. HADRIANO AVG LEG. II. AVVG. F. {marginal = Liddel castle and barony. Lidesdal.; 1 R. II. Sollom moss. Battle of Sollom moss 1542. Batable ground. Leven r. Beucastle. Baron Strivelin. / Liddel Strength; Solway Moss; Battle of Solway Moss; Debatable Land; Bew Castle; roman inscription} Where the river Lidd falls into the Esk was formerly, as I have been told, Liddel, a castle and barony of the Estotevilles, who "held lands in Cornage which earl Ranulph gave to Turgis Brundas," as we find in an antient inquisition; but from Estoteville it came by inheritance to the Wakes, and by them to the earls of Kent [q]; but John earl of Kent, gave it to king Edward III. and king Richard II. to John of Gaunt duke of Lancaster. Beyond this river Esk the country for some miles is accounted part of England, in which is Sollom-mosse, famous for the number of Scottish nobles taken prisoners A.D. 1543, when the Scots intending to attack Thomas Wharton, lord warden of the Marches, no sooner found the king had transferred his command to Oliver Sincler, in preference to them, than they resented this affront as they supposed it, to their own disgrace and ruin, breaking their ranks, and throwing the whole army into confusion. The English seeing this from higher ground immediately attacked and routed them, made many prisoners, who flung down their arms and surrendered themselves to the English and moss troopers on the borders with an inconsiderable loss of men on either side; which threw king James V. of Scotland into such despondency that he broke his heart. The country hereabouts is called Batable ground, because in debate between the English and Scots. The people on both sides, like borderers, are an active, crafty, and light sort of soldiery, and expert in skirmishing. The Leven and other river before-mentioned, rising in the very border of two kingdoms, passes by nothing remarkable except Beucastle, as it is commonly called, a royal castle in a waste tract with a garrison. In the public records it is written Bueth-castle, whence its name should seem to be derived from that Bueth, who about the time of Henry I. was a sort of absolute lord in these parts. Certain it is that in the reign of Edward III. it was the property of John baron de Strivelin [r], who married the daughter and coheiress of Adam de Swinborn. In the church almost ruined lies this old inscription, brought from some other place, and serving as a grave-stone: LEG. II. AVG. FECIT. {marginal = Bewcastle Cross} In the church-yard is a cross near 20 feet high, of one stone, neatly wrought, and having an inscription, but the letters too much consumed by time to be legible. But the cross itself being chequered like the arms of the family of Vaulx makes it probable that it was their work. {marginal = Gillesland barony. Stanwicks. Scalby. Askerton. Irthington. Castlesteeds. Brampton. BREMETURACUM. Cohors I. Tungrori. Armaturae. Castle steeds. / Gilsland; Brampton; Bremeteracum} More to the south and west inland lies the barony of Gillesland, a small tract, so full of rivulets, called Gilles, that I should suppose it to have taken its name from them, had I not read in the register of Lanercost church, that one Gill, son of Bueth, who in a charter of Henry II. is also called Gilbert, antiently held it, and probably left his name to it [s]. Through this the wall or rampart of Severus, that noblest monument in Britain, runs almost strait from Carlisle, east through the village of Stanwicks, Scalby, formerly a castle of the Tilliols, a family of renown in these parts, from whom it came to the Pickerings; and from thence the little river Cambec passes under the wall, on whose banks the barons Dacre built the little castle of Askerton, where the warden or land-sergeant of Gillesland has a garrison. Below the wall it falls into the river Irthing, where is Irthington, a capital manor as they call it of this barony of Gillesland, and here at Castle steed are to be seen great ruins. Near it is Brampton, a mean market-town, which I take for BREMETURACUM ad lineam valli, being scarce a mile from the wall, where antiently was stationed the 1st cohort of the Tungri from Germany, and in the decline of the Roman empire under the Dux Britanniarum a Cuneus Armaturarum. These were horse completely armed, but whether these Armaturae were duplares or simplares, Vegetius [t] leaves uncertain. The former, according to the style of that time, was so called from having a double, and other from having only single allowance of provision [u]. Nor must I omit that at Brampton is a high hill fortified at the top with a ditch and called The Mote, commanding an extensive prospect over the country below. Under this and at Castle steeds, q.d. Castle place, as also at Trederman were found these inscriptions, which the right hon. lord William Howard of Naworth, 3d son of the most noble Thomas duke of Norfolk, and an attentive and learned searcher into venerable antiquity, who possesses estates hereabouts in right of his wife, sister and coheir of the last baron Dacre, copied for me with his own hand: See Pl. VIII. fig.8 The following there also in an antient hypocaust, in which the name of the Legatus Augusti and Propraetor in Britain is unfortunately lost: See Pl. VIII. fig.9. {marginal = Gelt r. / Written Rock of Gelt; roman inscription} Near Brampton runs the little river Gelt, on whose bank on a rock called Helbeck is this imperfect inscription, cut by the Vexillato of the Legio II. Augusta probably an Optio placed under the Propraetor Agricola with others which time has robbed us of: See Pl. VIII. fig.10. On the same rock are these words in a later character: OFICIVM ROMANORVM. [x] {marginal = Naworth c. / Naworth Castle} Here the Gelt empties itself into the river Irthing which runs with rapidity and noise by Naworth castle, now belonging to William Howard before-mentioned, who is repairing it, lately the barons Dacre, the last of whom dying a few years ago under age, his uncle Leonard who chose rather to carry on a war with his sovereign than a suit about the estate with his nieces, seized this castle, and levied a body of rebels against his prince, which lord 176.q -- Of the royal blood. H. 176.r -- Sir John of Strivelin, a baron. Id. 176.s -- Of the owners of this see in Hurst Monceaux, v. I. 202. 176.t -- Veget. II. 7. 176.u -- annonas. 176.x -- Q. if not intended for opiscium Romanorum by some monk. Hunsdon Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (177) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = Lanercost ab. Burd Oswald. / Lanercost Priory; roman fort, Birdoswald; roman inscription} Hunsdon, the warden, with the garrison of Berwic, easily dispered with great slaughter and disorder, Leonard himself escaping by flight. This last circumstance proved the security of their chief. Nearer the wall is Lanercost, a priory founded by R. de Vaulx lord of Gillesland, and on the wall Burd Oswald. Below this last, where the Picts wall crosses the river Irthing on arches, was the station of the cohors prima AElia Dacorum, at a place now called Willoford, as appears from the Notitia, and from several altars dedicated to Jupiter Optimus Maximus by the said cohort, of which I shall subjoin the following though almost defaced by time: {marginal = Jovi Optimo Maximo. Horsl. XI.} I. O. M. COH. i. AEL. DAC. CVI ... PRAE ... IG ... ... ... ... ... ... I. O. M. OH i AEL. DA C... C.. A GETA IREL SAVRNES ... ... ... ... ... ... {marginal = Horsl. X.} I. O. M. CoH I. AEL DAC. C. P. STATV LON GINVS, TRIB. {marginal = ; #x002A; Fortissimo Caesari. Horsl. XVI.} PRO SALVTE D. N. MAXIMANO [*] FOR ... CAE VA ... ... ... ... ... ... OAED LEG. VI VIC. P. F. F. I. O. M. COHI. AEL. DAC. TETRICIANO RO ... C. P. P. LVTIC ... VS. DESIG NATVS TRIB. I. O. M. COH. I. AEL DAC. GORD. ANA. C P. EST. I. O. M. ... H. I. AEL. DAC. ... C. PRAEESI ... ... FLIVS FA ... S. TRIB ... ... PETUO ... ... COS ... ... {marginal = Lords of Gillesland from an old missal. / Gilsland} The first lord of Gillesland that I have met with is William [*] Meschines [y], brother of Radulphus lord of Cumberland (not that William who was brother of Ranulph earl of Chester, from whom descended Ranulph de Ruelent, but brother of Radulphus) who could not however wrest it from the Scots. For Gill son of Bueth held the greatest part of it by force of arms. After his death king Henry II. bestowed it on Hubert de Vaux, whose arms are chequè Arg. and G. His son Robert founded and endowed Lanercost priory. But after a few years the estate was transferred by marriage to the Moltons, and from them by a daughter to Ranulph lord Dacre, whose posterity have continued to flourish to the present time. {marginal = Maidenway. Whitley c. / Maiden Way; Whitley Castle (Northumberland); roman inscription} Having thus in a manner perlustrated the coast and interior parts of Cumberland, the east part though thin, hungry, and waste, remains to be visited. It affords only the sources of South Tine in a swampy soil, and a Roman way eight yards broad, paved with stones, and called the Maiden way, leading from Westmorland, and at the confluence of the little river Alon with the Tine before-mentioned on the gentle slope of a hill are traces of a very large old town, defended on the north by four ramparts, and on the west by two [z]. Whitley castle is the present name of this place, in proof of whose antiquity remains this imperfest inscription, in abreviated and complicated characters, by which we learn, that the 3d cohort of the Nervii erected there a palace to the emperor Antoninus son of Severus: IMP. CAES. Lucii Septimi Severi Ara- BICI. ADIABENICI PARTHICI, MAX. FIL. DIVI ANTONINI Pii Germanici SARMA. NEP. DIVI ANTONINI PII PRON. DIVI HADRIANI ABN. DIVI TRAIANI PARTH. ET DIVI NERVAE ADNEPOTI. M. AVRELIO ENTONINO PIO FEL. AVG. GERMANICO PONT. MAX. TR. POT.. X.. IMP. ... COS.IIII. P. P. ... PRO PIETATE AEDE ... VOTO ... COMMVNI CVRANTE ... ... ... ... ... LEGATO AVG. PR ... COH. III. NERVIO ... ... RVM ... G. R. POS. {marginal = ALONE. / Alone} As the 3rd cohort of the Nervii was stationed here, and by the Notitia is placed at ALIONE, and by Antoninus at ALONE, and the little river that runs by this place is called Alne, we may with great probability suppose this place to have been ALONE, though not with absolute certainty, since the ravages of time and war have almost obliterated all memory of it. {marginal = Kings of Cumberland. / Cumberland, King of} In the decline of the Roman empire in Britain, though this country was miserably harrassed by the Scots and Picts, it long preserved the original Britans for its inhabitants, and fell late into the power of the Saxons. But when the Saxon government was subverted by the Danish wars, it had princes of its own, styled kings of Cumberland, till the year 946, at which time as Matthew of Westminster informs us [a], "king Edmund, assisted by Lewellin king of Demetia, plundered Cumberland of all its wealth, and having put out the eyes of the two sons of Dunmail king of that province, gave the kingdom to Malcolm king of Scotland, to hold of him and to defend the north parts of England from the invasion of enemies by sea and land." From that time the eldest sons of the kings of Scotland were for a long while styled governors of Cum- 177.* -- R. Cooke, Clarenceux, calls him Ralph, as do the registers of Fountain and Holm abbies. 177.y -- But of him more in my Annals. H. 177.z -- sescuplo. H. G. Ainsworth, one and a half. 177.a -- P. 366. berland, Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (178) [Cum]berland, both under the Saxons and Danes. But when England submitted to the Normans, this part of it also came into their power, and fell to the share of Radulph de Meschines, whose eldest son Ranulph was lord of Cumberland, and in right of his mother and by favour of the king earl of Chester. King Stephen to gratify the Scots restored it to them to be holden of him and the kings of England. But his successor Henry II. finding this liberality of Stephen likely to prove prejudicial to himself and kingdom, demanded Northumberland, Cumberland, and Westmorland, of the Scots. "The Scottish king, as Neubrigensis [b] relates, wisely considering that the king of England had the advantage in this demand both by strength of arms and justice of claim, though he might have alledged the oath which he was said to have taken to his grandfather David when he received knighthood from him, honestly restored the borders aforesaid upon demand, and in return received from him the county of Huntingdon, to which he had an antient right." {marginal = Earls of Cumberland. / Cumberland, Earl of} Before the time of Henry VIII. there were no earls of Cumberland. He created [c] Henry Clifford, descended from the lords Vipont, first earl of Cumberland, who by Margaret daughter of Henry Percy earl of Northumberland, had Henry [d] 2d earl, who by his first wife daughter of Charles Brandon duke of Suffolk, had Margaret countess of Derby, by his 2d wife daughter of lord Dacre of Gillesland, two sons George and Francis. George, the 3d earl, distinguished himself in the sea-service, indefatigable and brave, and died 1605 [e], leaving an only daughter Anne [f]. He was succeeded by his brother Francis 4th earl, who discovers an ambition to equal the virtues of such ancestors [g]. This county contains 58 parish churches besides chapels. 178.b -- II. 4. 178.c -- 1523. 15 H.VIII. He died 34 H.VIII. buried at Appleby or Skipton. Dugd. Bar. I. 344. 178.d -- died 1569, 12 Eliz. buried at Skipton. Ib. 345. See before, p.41,42. 178.e -- buried at Skipton. Ib. 178.f -- now countess of Dorset. H. 178.g -- As for the Wardens of the West Marches against Scotland in this county, which were noblemen of special trust, I need to say nothing, when as by the Union of both kingdoms under one head that ofice is now determined. Id. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (179) {marginal = Cumberland; ADDITIONS} ADDITIONS {marginal = Cumberland, extent} THE county of Cumberland is in length from the Peel of Fouldry on the south to the north near Langford above 70 miles, and in breadth from Allenby on the west to Newbiggin bridge on the east 30 miles and upwards, 230 in circumference, contains about 1,040,000 acres, about 20,000 houses, and near 100,000 inhabitants. It is divided (as Westmorland, and for the same reason), into five wards, in which are eight market and two borough towns, and 58 parishes [a]. "The length of Cumberland by the shore is from a water called Dudden, the which devideth Furnesland from Cumbreland onto a lytle water or mere called Polt Rosse, the which devideth the county of Northumberland on the east side from Cumbreland. The bredeth of Cumbreland is from a water called Emot that divideth on the south side the one part Cumbreland from Westmorland until he enter into the river of Edon two miles from Pereth by east, and so on the east side of Edon unto a broke called ... the which divideth likewise Cumbreland from Westmerland unto the ryver of Eske in the north side, the which divideth Cumbreland from the batable ground until it come to the arm of the se which divideth England from Scotland [b]." {marginal = Copeland barony. Egremont. / Copeland} The great barony of Copeland lies between the rivers Darwent and Dudden and the sea, and was granted by Ranulph de Meschines to his brother William, who seated himself at Egremont castle, and caused the name of the barony to be changed from Copeland to Egremont, which it retains to this day [c]. {marginal = Millum. / Millom} Within this great barony and forest are divers manors and knights' fees, manors of themselves holden of this castle. Of these is Millum, q.d. Meol holme, being a plain ground running with a sharp point into the sea. It belonged to the Huddlestones from the reign of Henry III. and William, the last male heir of that family, at his death left two daughters, the elder of whereof married sir Hedworth Williamson, of Monkwearmouth in the county palatine of Durham, bart. and perpetual high-sheriff of that county under the bishop; and the younger daughter having only a legacy in money and no part of the estate, the same was sold to sir James Lowther, bart. (now earl of Lonsdale), but it was a considerable number of years before the purchase-money was fully paid [d]. "Between Eske and Doden is set Millum, a castel longing to sir John Hudestan, on the right of Dudden river or Dudden sands [e]." The first lords William and Henry, about the time of Henry II. took their name from it, but t. Henry III. the heiress of Adam de Millum transferred it by marriage to John Hudlestone [1]. {marginal = Swineshead. / Swinside stone circle} At Swineshead, a very high hill between Bow fell in this county and Broughton in Furness in Lancashire, four miles from the latter, is a druidical temple, which the country people call Sunken Kirk, i.e.a church sunk into the earth. It is nearly a circle of very large stones, pretty entire, only a few fallen, upon sloping ground in a swampy meadow. No situation could be more agreeable to the Druids than this; mountains almost encircle it, not a tree is to be seen in the neighbourhood, nor a house, except a shepherd's cot at the foot of a mountain surrounded by a few barren pastures. At the entrance there are four large stones, two placed on each side at the distance of six feet. The largest on the left hand side is five feet six inches in height, and 10 feet in circumference. Through this you enter into a circular area, 29 yards by 30. This entrance is nearly south-east. On the north or right hand side is a huge stone of a conical form, in height nearly 9 feet. Opposite the entrance is another large stone, which has once been erect, but is now fallen within the area; its length is eight feet. To the left hand or south-west is one, in height seven feet, in circumference 11 feet nine inches. The altar probably stood in the middle, as there are some stones still to be seen, though sunk deep in the earth. The circle is nearly complete, except on the western side some stones are wanting. The largest stones are about thirty-one or two in number. The outward part of the circle upon the sloping ground is surrounded with a buttress or rude pavement of smaller stones raised about half a yard from the surface of the earth. The situation and aspect of the druidical temple near Keswick, mentioned by Mr. Pennant in his tour [f], is in every respect similar to this, except the rectangular recess formed by 10 large stones, which is peculiar to that at Keswick; but, upon the whole, I think a preference will be given to this at Swinshead, as the stones in general appear much larger, and the circle more entire. This monument of antiquity, when viewed within the circle, strikes you with astonishment how the massy stones could be placed in such regular order either by human strength or mechanical power. {marginal = Ravenglas. / Ravenglass} Dr. Burn derives Ravenglas from renigh, fern, and glas, green. Here are in winter such plenty of woodcocks, that the tenants are bound to sell them to the lord for a pence a piece [g]. {marginal = Three Shire Stones} In Langdale in Westmorland are two high hills in the road from Cumberland to Gresmere called Hardknot and Wrynose; on the latter of which are placed the shire stones; three little stones, about a foot high and a foot asunder, set in a triangle [h]. 179.a -- Burn's Hist. of Cumberland. II. 2,3. 179.b -- Lel. VII. 71. 179.c -- Burn, II. 8. 179.d -- Ib. 9,10,13. 179.e -- Lel. VII. 59,71. 179.1 -- G. 179.f -- Engraved in Antiq. Repert. I. 239. 179.g -- Burn. II. 21. 179.h -- Ib. I. 176. The Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (180) {marginal = roman fort, Hardknott Pass} The foundations on Hardknot may have belonged to some chapel or cross, built there as an eminent place. The large tract of mountains on the east side of the county called Cross Fells, one of the highest mountains in the north [h], have the name given them on that account, being before called Brinds fell, Devils fell; and Dilston, a small town under them is contracted from Devilston [2]. {marginal = Irton. British Pearls / Irt, River; pearls} On the Irt stands the town of Irt or Irton; the manor of which belonged to an antient family of that name in the reign of Henry II. of whom was Ralph Irton prior of Gisburn and bishop of Carlisle 1280 [i]. Muscle pearls are found in this and other rivers hereabouts as also in Wales. A patent was granted to certain gentlemen for pearl fishing here, but they are not very plentiful, and may be had cheaper from the straits of Magellan, where sir John Narborough and sir Richard Hawkins tell us they abound in every muscle [k]. Tacitus [l] describes the British pearls as of bad colour, subfuscae ac liventes; but this is not their general character. Bede [m] gives a juster account of them when he says they are of all colours. Those that are not bright and shining , and such are met with in the Irt, &c. are usually called Sand pearl, which are as useful in physic as the finest. Dr. Lister says he has found sixteen of these in one muscle, but that they are all only senescentium musculorum vitia [n]. The poor people gather them at low water, and sell them to the jewellers, and it is said Mr. Patrickson of How in this county got as many as sold for 800l. [o] {marginal = St. Bees. / St Bees Abbey; St Bees School} "St. Beges in Coupland hard on the west side a celle longing to St. Mary's abbey at York [p]." Bega is said to have founded a nunnery here A.D. 650, which being destroyed by the Danes was refounded for Benedictine monks by Ranulphus de Meschines earl of Cumberland, and valued at £.143. [q] The conventual church, now parochial, has a west door adorned like that of Ifley c. Oxon. The chancel, which is ruined, has narrow lancet windows. In the church is a wooden figure of Anthony last lord Lucy of Egremont [r]. In the yard are two battered figures of knights. Archbishop Grindal, who was born here, founded a good grammar-school, to which belongs a library, and it was much improved by the bounty of Dr. Lamplugh archbishop of York, Dr. Smith bishop of Carlisle, sir James Lowther of Whitehaven, &c. The right of presenting a master is in the master and fellows of Queen's college, Oxford, to which its founder was also a benefactor [3]. The vicarage-house seems to have been built out of the ruins of the monastery, whose foundations extend to the south. A bridge leading to the village has the archbishop's initials 1588 [s]. {marginal = St Bees Head} The great cliff called Bamhead or Bees head abounds with plenty of sea fowl. {marginal = Egremont. / Egremont; Egremont Castle} "Egermont, south from Cokermouth, longith to the lord Fitzwalter, and standith by the market town of Egremont [t]." Egremont castle passed from the Meschines to the Lucys, of whom Maud, only sister and heir of Anthony lord Lucy before-mentioned, married Henry Percy first earl of Northumberland, in whose male line it continued till Elizabeth sole daughter and heiress of Joceline last earl of Northumberland of that line, married Charles duke of Somerset 1682, and transferred it to his family. Their son Algernon was created 1749 earl of Egremont with remainder to his nephew sir Charles Wyndham, who succeeded to the title on his decease 1750, and was succeeded 1763 by his son George, present and 2d earl of Egremont. The town of Egremont once sent members to Parliament [u]. {marginal = Whitehaven. / Whitehaven; shipping; coal mines} Below St. Bees and in its parish is Whitehaven a handsome regular town, so called from the white rocks and cliffs. It is chiefly beholden for its improvement to sir John Lowther, who took his title of distinction from it, and whose descendants have a considerable estate here [4]. It contains 1200 inhabitants, and has 190 great ships, mostly employed in the coal trade; three chapels, four meeting-houses, and a good artificial harbour with a long pier. The collieries lie at the foot of an hill 80 fathoms deep, by an easy descent bricked and vaulted. The town and collieries produced a revenue of 16,000 a year to the late sir James Lowther, who had here a magazine of oats, which he always sold to the colliers at 5s. per bushel Cumberland or three Winchester measure [x] Whitehaven in 1566 had but six houses and only one pickard of eight or nine tons; in 1582 twelve small ships. Sir Christopher, 2d son of sir John Lowther, purchased the lands of St. Bees priory here, and settled here and died 1644. The late sir James lived to see about 11000 inhabitants, and about 260 sail ships of near 30,000 tuns burthen. Thirty of them are employed in foreign trade and the rest in the coal trade, and export yearly above 20,000 tuns. He devised his estates here to sir William Lowther of Holker, bart. who dying the next year was succeeded in the said estates, reckoned 14,000£. a year, by the present sir James Lowther, created earl of Lonsdale 1780. The coal mines here are perhaps the most extraordinary in the world; sir John Lowther, father of the late sir James, first worked them for exportation, and he and his son in the course of half a century are supposed to have expended in one of them about half a million sterling. The mines are sunk to a depth of 130 fathom, and extended under the sea to places where there is over them a depth of water for ships of large burthen. Here are three strata of coal at a considerable distance, one above another, but not always regular, being interspersed by breaks of hard rock called dykes. Four fire-engines belong to this colliery, which, when all at work, discharge from it about 1228 gallons every minute at 13 strokes, and after the rate of 1,768,620 gallons in 24 hours. Three chapels have been erected by the Lowther family for the inhabitants, who now amount to about 2,200 families. Sir John Clerk, in a letter to Mr. Roger Gale 1739, gives this account of Whitehaven and its collieries: "The greatest curiosity at Whitehaven is sir James Lowther himself; whenever his death happens [y] it will be much felt by the people of this place, for when his money comes to be divided the coal will be set in farm and consequently brought to the verge of ruin. Amongst the extraordinary works of this place, I could not but admire those on the sea-coast to the westward. The sink goes down 180.h -- Burn, II. 364. 180.2 -- G. 180.i -- G. Burn, II. 22. 180.k -- Voy. p.7. Observations, 1622, p.88. 180.l -- Vit. Agric. c.12. 180.m -- I. 1. 180.n -- de Conchil. fluv. § 2. G. 180.o -- Burn, II. 24. 180.p -- Lel. VII. 71. 180.q -- Tan. 73. 180.r -- Burn, II. 41. 180.3 -- G. 180.s -- Grose. 180.t -- Lel. VII. 72. 180.u -- Burn, II. 31-34. 180.4 -- G. 180.x -- Pennant, 1772, p.47-50. 180.y -- He died 1755. perpendicularly Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (181) perpendicularly 80 fathom below the sea (I suppose low-water mark), and many underneath it. Sir James's riches in part swim over his head, for ships pass daily above the very ground where his colliers work. The coals are drawn up by an engine, worked by two horses, which go a full trot every eight hours, and three changes are employed in a day and a night. The quantity drawn up is about twenty corfs in an hour, each corf consisting of an oblong square 32 inches long, 18 broad, and 22 deep, which cost 7d.½ Thus I found the quantity of coal brought up in a year (Sunday excepted), amounted to about 4,200£. but out of this the colliers and other expences being paid, he cannot clear above 500 or 600£. a year, out of this his largest coalwork. He draws the water from his coal-seams by a fire-engine with four pumps and four lifts: one of the pumps goes down 80 fathoms, which brings up the water to a cistern at 60 fathoms deep; from thence another pump raises it to cistern of 40 fathoms deep from the surface on the top of the sink; a 3d brings it up to 20, and a 4th to the level of the sea at high water. The cylinder which gives life to this motion is of brass 42 inches diameter, fixed in a boiler of about 11 feet diameter. The coal, when brought up to the level of the sea, is put in ships, and conveyed to the cavity of a hill, whence it is drawn up by a second engine. There it is put on great carts with low wheels, which gently roll down to the harbour on oak boards. The method of shipping it is no less curious. The strata are five or six inches, the largest six feet thick, and sometimes seven or eight. The next is five feet. One is three, another two feet. Though the coal at Newcastle be much exhausted near the sea, the strata continue all the way to Corbirdge and Hexham, but at Whitehaven the strata are almost spent to the length of Workington, at least no great fields of coal remain. It is, however, certain, that some seams stretch towards Newcastle, and are the same though broken and interrupted, sometimes lying flat, sometimes on edge, sometimes three or four feet thick, sometimes scarce an inch; in which alteration I have sufficiently observed here and in Scotland. {marginal = copperas} "The copperas works at Whitehaven are a curiosity that deserves to be seen. The copperas is made by boiling the water into a salt which comes from the brassy particles in sir James's coals gathered from the rest of the coal when brought above ground, and sold at the same price. To this they add pieces of rusty iron without any other ingredient [a]." {marginal = MORBIUM. Moresby. / Moresby; Morbium; roman inscription} Mr. Ward [b] places MORBIUM at Templeburgh on the Don in Yorkshire [c], and ARBEIA at Moresby, where, in the Crofts, a field between the town and Barton, they continually plough up stones and cement, which have all the usual appearance of being Roman, though it seemed rather the site of the town than the station. Something like two sides of a fort appeared near the church: the rest may have been washed away by the sea. The three inscriptions given by Mr. Camden are not now to be found; but there is another and a relief at a style in a field called Ingclose, a little east of Moresby hall [d]. Mr. Camden had placed Arbeia at Iresby, but there are no remains, nor at Harbybrow or brough two or three miles off. Horsley gives this inscription, Cumb. LXXV. D. M. SMERT [C] MAC M Co H I H RAC [triangle]Q[triangle]STII X VICSIT XXX[triangle]QV Diis Manibus Smerius Tomacius miles cohortis primae Thracum qui stipendiorum decem vixit annos triginta quinque. Also a half figure in relief holding a scroll, Cumb. LXXVI. Moresby came from the Fletchers to the Broughams, and so to the earl of Lonsdale [e]. {marginal = Hayes c.} Hayes castle is the capital messuage belonging to Distington manor. It belonged to the Moresbys, and is now the property of Mr. Hartley, merchant in Whitehaven [f]. {marginal = Loweswater. / Loweswater} Loweswater, a chapelry in St. Bee's parish, has its name from a lake in a deep vale surrounded by mountains two miles broad abounding with pike, perch, and, as some say, char [g]. {marginal = Newlands. / Goldscope Mine} The rich copper mine at Newlands are said to have served all England and divers places beyond sea; but the works being destroyed and the miners killed in the civil war, they have never since been worked to any account [h]. {marginal = Caldre. / Calder Abbey} In St. Bride's parish on the north side of the Calder stood Caldre abbey, founded for Cistercians by Ranulphus son of the first Ranulphus de Meschines 1134, valued at £.54 9s. [i] or as Burn [k] £.13. 10s. now the property of John Senhouse, esq. "Caldher abbay of whyte monkes yn Copeland, not very far from St. Beges and nere to Egremont castle [l]." {marginal = Silla park. / Sella Park} A mile lower on the rill to the sea lies Silla park, a cell and park of this house. {marginal = Derwentwater. / Derwentwater Family} The Derwentwater family took their name from the place where they were seated from the reign of Edward I. Sir Nicholas Radcliffe of Dilston c. Northumberland, knt. married the heiress of the family in the reign of Henry VI. and his descendant Francis was created by James II. baron of Dilston, viscount Langley and Radcliff, and earl of Derwentwater; all which titles were forfeited with his estate and life by his son James, beheaded on Tower-hill 1716 for engaging in the rebellion. The estate amounted to £.20,000. a year, including the mines, was vested in trustees for the support of Greenwich hospital, but restored on the reversal of the attainder 177[ ]. [m] {marginal = Brackmere. Castlerigg. / Thirlmere} At the foot of Wythburn fells is Brackmere, a large lake, a mile by one and an half, well stocked with pike, perch, and eels. Castlerigg was the antient seat of the Derwentwater family, but after the marriage with the Radcliffs went to ruin, and with the materials the Radcliffs built a pleasure-house in one of the islands in Derwentwater. The large and stately oaks were felled by the trustees of Greenwich hospital, who lately replaced them by some small plantations. In the neighbourhood of this place, on the right hand of the road from Keswic to Penrith, is a collection of stones of unequal size 181.a -- Reliq. Galeanae, p.326-328. 181.b -- Horsley, p.482,483. 181.c -- See before, p.31. 181.d -- Horsley, 285. Cumb. lxxv-vi. Burn, II. 47. 181.e -- Burn, II. 49. 181.f -- Ib. 50. 181.g -- Ib. 60. 181.h -- Ib. 69. 181.i -- Tan. 75. 181.k -- Ib. 29. 181.l -- Lel. VII. 71. 181.m -- G. Pennant, 41. Burn, II. 77-79. and Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (182) {marginal = Castlerigg stone circle} and shape, about 39 yards diameter, and on the east side within the circle or area two or more rows of like stones, including a space about eight yards by four [n]. Stukely desribes it as very intire, 100 feet diameter, consisting of 40 stones, some very large. At the east end a grave, made of such other stones, in the very east point of the circle, and within it not a stone wanting, though some are removed out of their original situation. They call it the Carles, and corruptly Castle rigg. There seemed to be another lower in the next pasture towards the town [o]. On the north side of Castlerigg, on the river Bure, were lead and copper works, ruined in the civil war [p]. {marginal = Black lead. / black lead mines} The Black lead is found in Seatallor fell in Keswic parish. It is essentially different from the Melanteria and Pnigitis of Dioscorides; the former being expressly said to be found at the mouth of copper mines, and the latter more like the black chalk mentioned by Dr. Plot [q]. It is used by the neighbourhood medically against colics, gravel, stone, and strangury, operating by urine, sweat, and vomitting. It also enables crucibles to stand the hottest fire, and being rubbed on iron and steel arms preserves them from rust; and it is used by cloth-dyers to make their blues stand unalterable. This mundic ore having little of sulphur in its composition will not flow without a violent heat. It produces a white regulus shining like silver [r]. The old level was first re-opened 1710. It belongs to a number of gentlemen, who, lest the market should be over-stocked, open the mine but once in seven years [s]. It sells from 8 to 12s. a pound [t]. It lies intermixed with a hard greenish rock, in the midst of which it appeared of a full round vein or body of above three feet diameter. It is called here Kellow or Wadf (sic); the former name is supposed to be derived from the Irish, the latter from the Saxon woad. It is said there is a mine of it in the West Indies; but there is no need to import any, as much being found here in one year will serve all Europe for several years. It is rather to be classed with earths than with metals or minerals: and as Ruddle is an earth strongly impregnated with the steams of iron, so is this with those of lead, as appears by its weight, colour, &c. Dr. Merret [u] gives it the name Nigrica fabrilis, adding that it wanted a true one till he gave it this at Keswick, and that it is the peculiar produce of New and Old England [5]; but sir R. Sibbald assures us, it is found in Aberdeenshire [x]. {marginal = St Herbert} The friendship between St. Cuthbert and St. Herbert, who died on the same day and minute at Carlisle and Lindisfarne, are largely recited by Bede, all which is repeated in an instrument whereby Thomas de Apulby, bishop of Carlisle 1374, requires the vicar of Crosthwait to say a yearly mass in St. Herbert's isle April 13th, in commemoration of that saint, and grants 40 days indulgence to such of his parishioners as shall devouly attend the service [y]. {marginal = Keswick. / Keswick; Castlerigg stone circle} "On the east side of the isle where as the water of Darguent risith is a little poor market town called Keswike, and yt is a mile from St. Herebertes isle, that Bede spekith of. Divers springs cometh out of Borodale, and so make a great lough that we call a pool, and therein be three isles. In the one is the head places of the M. Radclyf, another is called St. Hereberts isle, where is a chapel, the 3d is Vicar isle full of trees like a wilderness [z]." Keswic is placed in a narrow bottom under vast mountains full of mines. There is carried on a manufactory of flannels, linseys, and yarn. It has a school. Its vale a circle between land and water of about 20 miles is the Elysium of the north. The form of the lake is irregular, extending about three miles and an half from north to south and about one mile and an half broad; its greatest depth 20 feet. The river Derwent passes through and gives name to it. The southern extremity is a composition of all that is horrible. An immense chasm opens up in the midst, whose entrance is divided by a rude conic hill, once topt by a castle, beyond a chain of craggs, patched with snow, and containing various minerals, overshading the dark winding deeps of Borrowdale. The north view is a beautiful contrast. {marginal = Skiddaw. / Skiddaw} Skiddaw shews its vast base, and bounding all that part of the vale rises gently 1100 yards perpendicular from the broadwater with two heads [a], with a smooth verdant front, on whose top is Skiddaw maen, a blue slate stone, a beacon or kistvaen. Cranberries grow on it. Each boundary of the lake partakes of the extremities. The southern varies in rocks of different forms from the tremendous precipices of the Lady's leap and broken front of the Falcon's nest, and the more distant concave curve of Lowdore [b], a length of precipices intermixed with trees and cataracts. On the north side is a salt spring, once belonging to the monks of Furness, sheep-pastures on the sides of the lofty hills, and woods running down to the water's edge: But most of the antient woods have been cut down by the commissioners for Greenwich hospital. The three islands on this circular lake are finely disposed. The principal is the Lord's island about five acres, where St. Herbert's hermitage was. The late sir Wilfrid Lawson 1761 cut down the old wood and planted new [c]. The water is subject to violent agitation, and, in the calmest weather, the waves will run high and the vessels be tost by what is called a bottom wind [d]. About a mile and an half from Keswic on a high hill in a field called the Castle, is a druidical circle of stones, tending to an oval 35 yards diameter from north to south and near 30 from east to west. These stones are at present 40, but many fallen. At the north end are two five feet high; two more of nearly the same height at the south end, and one at the east near seven feet. On this side is the Kistvaen of great stones [e]. {marginal = Crosthwaite. / St Kentigern, Great Crosthwaite} In Crossthwaite church is a brass for sir John Radcliff and his lady 1327, &c. [f]. Sir John Banks, bart. Attorney-General and Chief-Justice of the Common Pleas t. Charles I. gave a considerable benefaction for erecting a manufacturing house and maintaining the poor of Keswick, his native place, which charity is still well managed [g]. 182.n -- Burn, 80. 182.o -- It. Cur. II. 48. 182.p -- Burn, II. 80. 182.q -- Oxf. 56,57. 182.r -- Robinson's Nat. hist. of Westm. and Cumb. 182.s -- Pennant, 1772, p.42. 182.t -- Burn, II. 80-83. 182.u -- Pinax, p.218. 182.5 -- G. 182.x -- Prod. IV. p.42. 182.y -- Regist. Apulb. p.261. Smith's Bede, p.783. G. 182.z -- Lel. VII. 71. 182.a -- Burn, II. 86. 182.b -- See Antiq. Repert. I. 97. 182.c -- Burn, II. 86. 182.d -- Pennant, 1772, 59-61. 182.e -- Ib. 58. Ant. Repert. I. 248. Stukeley, It. Cur. I. 47. 182.f -- Pennant, 41. 182.g -- G. See Hutchin's Dorset, II. 87. "Cokermuth, Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (183) {marginal = Cockermuth. / Cockermouth} "Cokermuth, a market town, standing on the west side of Darwent, four or five miles from the se shore and 20 from Carluel [h]." It is a large borough town with broad streets, washed by the Derwent, and divided by the Cocker, at whose mouth it stands; the inhabitants amount to 3 or 4000; the manufactory is shalloons, worsted stockings and hats. The castle, built by Waltheof first lord of Allendale, and son of Gospatrick earl of Northumberland t. Conq. or by William de Meschines lord of the honor of Cockermouth, stands on an artificial hill, is square, and has several towers. On each side the second gate two spacious dungeons. It was burnt in the civil war [i]. The town gives title of viscount to the earl of Egremont, to whom the castle came by the Percies as to them from the Lucies and Pipards [k]. {marginal = Pap castle. / roman fort, Papcastle} Pap castle, perhaps contracted from Pipard its owner, is said to have been demolished, and the materials employed to build Cockermouth castle [l]. It is in Bridekirk parish, which is a large one. Mr. Routh thus describes the ruins discovered at Pap castle, Jan. 16, 174½ (sic) [m]. "I made particular enquiry of the man in whose grounds they were discovered and of some of the neighbours present at the discovery. The close in which they lay is a little to the south of the fort, on the declivity of the hill to the river, and bounded on the west by a narrow lane, probably the Via militaris continued, and is usually shewn to strangers as the most remarkable here for finding Roman coins. "These are the largest ruins ever known to be discovered in these parts: for they met with three walls besides the pavement; the first lay east and west and was covered with earth near a foot high: parallel to it at seven yards they found a second, and between these two about two yards deep (the height of the walls, which were six yards broad and strongly cemented), they came to a pavement curiously laid with large flags three-quarters of a yard square and two or three inches thick, as I measured them: but imagining there must be money under it, they covered it up till night, and then tore it all up. It was composed of flags of different thickness: under the thinner was a coarse strong cement which caused them to be broken in taking up, but the thicker are pretty entire. Part of the wall stood on the floor, and the edge was secured by a fine red cement two inches thick, supposed to be intended to keep the floor dry. They imagined themselves at the corner of the building, the third wall standing at right angles with the first, and the second parallel to the stoney lane, on which was an old hedge. On the floor they found a stone trough or rather base of a pillar about a foot high, and the hollowed part square and two inches deep. "They likewise found a small earthen patera, which I procured, of the fine red clay, beautifully smooth, with letter impressed on the bottom, but so defaced as not to be intelligible. Some years ago, the man's father who found these ruins dug up a conduit. The owner had no coins nor knew of any. One of his neighbours shewed me a large brass one defaced." Mr. Routh in another letter to Mr. Gale [n] April 13, 1743, describes a fibula, a coin of Trajan, ... IANO AVG. ... P. M. Rev. the emperor seated on a pile of arms, a trophy before him, S.P.Q.R. OPTI ... S. C. and two oaken pieces of the adjoining timber of a house which appeared to have been burnt, in the garden of Jerom Tully, esq; of Carlisle. The earth as far as they dug was artificial, and antiquities are only found at a considerable depth. Dr. Stukeley [o] says the Roman castrum lies on the top of the hill above the village, and he traced its whole circumference, a bit of the Roman wall by the river side going to Wigton, and there the ditch is plainly visible, though half filled up with the rubbish of the wall. A subterraneous vault, floored with large slabs of freestone, was found in the pasture of the south-east angle. The name of Boroughs includes both closes where it stood, and they find stones and slates with iron pins in them, coins, &c. on the whole spot below it towards the water side. It was a beautiful and well-chosen plan, on the south-west side of a hill, a noble river running under, and pretty good country about it. Coins of Claudius, Adrian, and a silver Geta, PONT. rev. PRINCEPS IVVENTVTIS. He supposes its antient name DERVENTIO derived from the Derwent. {marginal = Eglesfield. / Eaglesfield} Eglesfield gave name to the antient family, lords of the manor, of whom was Robert Eglesfield, rector of Brough c. Westmorland, and founder of Queen's college, Oxford [p]. {marginal = Bridekirk. / Bridekirk, font} The font at Bridekirk was copied for the late bishop Lyttelton, and engraved in Archaeol. II. p.131. It exhibits in rude relief the expulsion of Adam and Eve out of Paradise, and the baptism of Christ, over which may perhaps be the serpent with the forbidden fruit. The other two sides are charged with grotesques and foliage, and on the south is the inscription in Runic characters on a scroll. Bishop Nicolson in a long and learned letter to sir William Dugdale 1685, reads it Er Ekard men egroten & to dis men red wer Taner men brogten; which he explains, Here Ekard was converted, and to this man's example were the Danes brought. He considers the characters a mixture of Runic and Saxon, and the language made up of Danish and Saxon. Bishop Lyttelton imagines the font older than the event here commemorated, and the inscription added at the time it happened, though he justly doubted its being found at Pap castle, as it could have no connection with that station. Ekard might give the font after his conversion. Wormius gave a very different explanation in a letter to Spelman 1634. Haraldus cumulum fecit & lapides erexit in memoriam matris amp; Mabroki; which gives the letters from Camden's copy so different from bishop Nicolson that one would doubt if they had ever been truly copied. Camden's letters are certainly incorrect to a degree, and Wormius had no other copy; whereas bishop Nicolson professes to have exactly written them out from the stone. Dr, Hickes in a letter to bishop Nicolson says, the letters seem to be Dano-Saxonic, consequently neither good Danish nor good Saxon. On comparing the three copies of Camden, Wormius, and Nicolson, it appears that Camden gives 36, Nicolson 34 (omitting the 30th and 31st, which in the Archaeologia copy by Mr. Ainsley 183.h -- Lel. VII. 71. 183.i -- Pennant, 41. Grose. 183.k -- Grose. Buck. Stukeley, II. 48. Burn, II. 65. 183.l -- Pennant. 183.m -- Letter to Mr. Gale. Reliq. Gal. p.445. 183.n -- Ib. p.446. 183.o -- It. II. 51. 183.p -- Burn, II. 60. are Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (184) {marginal = Pl. IX. f.1.} are supplied like Camden's), and Wormius 37, near half of which bear no resemblance to the others. Mr. Hutchinson's drawing of this font 1775 is the last, and bears no resemblance to the others, nor probably to the rudeness of the original, and the inscription is still less faithful. The copy of the letters here given from Mr. Bell, the rector, to Dr. Burn, may be presumed to be the most exact: he sent the drawings &c. to bishop Lyttelton as engraved [q]. The father of sir Joseph Williamson, secretary of state to Charles II. and one of the plenipotentiaries at the treaty of Cologne 1674, and a great benefactor to Queen's college, Oxford, where he was educated, was rector of Bridekirk. {marginal = Workington. / Workington} "On the west side of Darwent is a pretty creke, whereas shyppes come to where ys a pretty litle fisher town called Wyrkenton, and there is the chief house of sir Thomas Curwyn [r]." It subsists by the coal trade, and has near 100 vessels. The castle is the seat of Henry Curwen, esq. It has a large desmene, and has always been remarkable for fine cattle of all sorts. Here are salt-pans and a good colliery; a large salmon fishery, and much sea fish [s]. The Curwen family is a very antient and respectable one. Their principal residence has long been at Workington hall in the county of Cumberland, where they had large possessions in landed property and coal mines. The last gentleman of that name and family was Henry Curwen, esq.; late member for the county. It was chiefly by his interest that sir James Lowther, now earl of Lonsdale, lost his parliamentary interest in the famous contested election for Cumberland in the year 1768, when Henry Fletcher, esq; now a baronet, first obtained a seat in the House of Commons in conjunction with Mr. Curwen, who sat in the preceding parliament for the city of Carlisle. He left an only daughter, heiress to all his large possessions, who was married about three years ago, very young, to her paternal first cousin John Christian, esq; of Unerigg hall in the same county. It is remarkable of this lady, that she was the last and only living child of a great number, her mother, the late Mrs. Curwen, formerly Miss Gale, of Whitehaven, having had fifteen or more children, previous to the present lady, all either still born or that died within a few minutes after their birth. On a pillar at the south-east end of the minster at Lincoln is fixed a small square marble slab with this inscription: "Here lieth Anne Curwen, daughter of sir Nicholas Curwen, of Workington in the county of Cumberland, knt. who died the XIII of April 1606, aet. 21." Arms in a lozenge, Arg. Frettè G a chief Az. Crest on a torse a horse passant. The mansion-house is a large quadrangular building, which still bears marks of great antiquity, notwithstanding various alterations and improvements, which have been made duting the last thirty years. The walls are so remarkably thick, that they were able, a few years since, in making some improvements to excavate a passage sufficiently wide lengthways through one of the walls, leaving a proper thickness on each side of the passage to answer every purpose of strength. {marginal = Mary Queen of Scots} It was within a very short distance of this house where the river Darwent empties itself into the sea that the unhappy Mary queen of Scots landed in 1568, after her escape from the castle of Dunbar, and subsequent defeat. She took refuge at this house, and was hospitably entertained by sir Henry Curwen, till the pleasure of Elizabeth was known; when she was removed first to Cockermouth castle and then to Carlisle. The chamber in which she slept at Workington hall is still called the Queen's chamber. We have before seen that Horsley [t] removes ARBEIA to Moresby, which others had placed at Workington on no better authority than the Burrough walls, about a mile from the town, which are still standing, though no more than one of those old towers so common in the north, and sometimes called Burgh or Brugh; but it has no other evidences of its having been a Roman station. The rectory of Workington, worth 400£. per ann. is held by Mr. William Thomas Addison, who married a sister of Mr. Curwen, his patron, and has a son in the East-Indies. {marginal = Seaton. / Seaton Priory} At Seaton alias Lekely on the opposite side of the Coker, was a Benedictine nunnery, valued at £.12 12s. per ann. [u] {marginal = Ireby. / Ireby} We have already seen how little pretension Ireby has to Roman antiquity. {marginal = Elenborough. / roman fort, Ellenborough; Virosidum; roman inscription} There is perhaps no one station in Britain where so many inscriptions have been found as at Elenborough. The originals are yet preserved at the hall, the seat of Humphry Senhouse, esq; descendant of John Senhouse, esq; whose politeness he possesses in the fullest degree. The first of the altars, described by Mr. Camden, is the finest and most curious ever discovered in Britain. It was found in this station, and removed from Elenborough house to Flat hall the seat of sir James Lowther, near Whitehaven, where it is carefully preserved. Though the altar is fine the inscription is coarse, and, towards the end, nearly effaced [x], by which I understand that more is effaced than was in Mr. Camden's time. Peregrinus was tribune of a cohort from Mauritania Caesariensis, and repaired the houses and apartments of the decuriones [y]. Wishes for the health of a person equivalent to Volanti vivas are not uncommon. We have in Gruter MCII. 8. Cureti vivas on a Sicilian inscription [z]. Petrei Bibas [a] for vivas on a tessera in Montfaucon. They inscribed their ardent wishes for the health of their friends on the altars, as most effectual to secure the divine protection for them [b]. Mr. Camden takes Volanti for Volantum, the name of this station, which Mr. Horsley makes Virosedum. What Mr. Camden calls a disc is a wheel, the symbol of fortune; his pear is a leaf or pine-apple, as on the fascia of the altar; and what he puts between the two suns at the top Stukeley makes a bust and Horsley a wheat-sheaf [c]. The next altar is now in the end wall of a stable at Drumburgh, formerly the seat of the Dacres, now of lord Lonsdale, to which it was removed from Ilkirk by John Aglionby, esq. It is broken through the middle by a tool which has damaged the 5th line [d]. Apronianus and Bradua were consuls A.D. 191, under Commodus. 184.q -- Burn, 101. 103. 184.r -- Lel. VII. 71. 184.s -- Burn, II. 55. 184.t -- Horsl. 483. 184.u -- Tan. 7. Burn, II. 17. 184.x -- Horsl. 281. Cumb. lxviii. 184.y -- Gale MS. n. supplies it Decuriae rest. Gruter, cvii. 5. gives it Decor. 184.z -- Gale MS. n. 184.a -- Gruter, MCX. 184.b -- Stuk. II. 4. 184.c -- Cumb. LXVIII. 184.d -- Ib. LVII. p.277. The Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (185) The next inscribed to Belatucader is lost. An optio was a deputy to a Centurion or other officer [e]. We have this deity again in Horsley, Cumb. XXXI. Westm. III. and Archaeol. I. 308. III. 101. The 4th inscription is in the hall wall [f]. Horsely takes the figure on the right side to represent Hercules leaning on his club and holding the Hesperian apples, which Gordon makes a patera. Stukeley changes the club into an altar and a patera held in the right hand of a figure much more delicate than Hercules. On the left side is Mars with his spear in his right hand, in his left his shield [g]. The next inscription is Horsley's Cumb. LXIV. Gordon's XLIV. Horsley inclines to refer it to Caracalla or Commodus, rather than to Antoninus Pius as Gordon. The four next are now lost. The word substituerunt in the seond seems to mean that the monument being erected by Morus Rex in his life-time and decaying was replaced by his heirs [h]. {marginal = Pl.IX. fig.2} The monument of Julia Martina, drawn by Gordon [i], exhibits her bust rudely cut over the inscription, which is also rude [k]. The next with the wreath supported by two Victories, is by Horsley referred to the emperors Dioclesian and Maximian [l]. {marginal = Pl.IX. fig.3} Since Mr. Camden's time the following have been found here. Horsley's LXI. an altar given to Mr. Kirkby of Ashleck, Lancashire, and by his son presented to me. {marginal = Pl.IX. fig.3 Pl.IX. fig.4 Pl.IX. fig.5 Pl.IX. fig.6,7,8} Another, LXII. supporting a sun-dial in Elenboro' garden. Another, LXIII. given to the bishop of Man's library in that island, whence the Society of Antiquaries had a copy of it in 1782. Another LXVI was over a door at Elenfoot. Another LXVII. LXIX. an altar to the local goddess Setlocenia or Seticenia in the garden wall [m]. A fragment of an epitaph [n]. IL SER QUI ANAT CALAPIADO BVIT CAIA XIT ANN MORII VI DESIDE RISINT NONVA. LXII. a relief of a female with an urn [o]. Mr. Pennant takes it for the goddess Setlocenia. LXXIII. a relief of a woman in a bath [p]. LXXIV. a relief of an equestrian figure [q]. Here have been since found a fragment of stone with a rude boar and ORD, perhaps part of the name of Gordian; an altar uninscribed, but having on one side an ax and knife: another unfinished found in a quarry with a knife and patera on two sides, probably waiting for a purchaser to inscribe and dedicate it; a relief of a figure in a sagum, holding in one hand a handled vessel like a bucket under a pediment, engraved by Mr. Pennant, pl.III. p.53.56. but the habit or attribute not easy to make out, nor why a Gaul [r]; a large wooden pin with a curious polygonal head [s], a brazen spout, and some thin gold plates. Near the house in Hall close is an intrenchment 45 yards by 35, perhaps the site of a mansion-house. Mr. Senhouse clearing the station 1766, found the pavements of the streets, foundations of houses, some of them covered with a pink coloured plaister, several vaults, one with freestone steps much used; fire hearths with circular backs with remains both of wood and coal, bones and teeth of animals, stag's horns, many of them sawed, oyster and other shells; fragments of earthen vessels, and a handle inscribed AEL; fragments of glass vessels and mirrors, and two pieces of a painted glass cup [t]. In the vault before-mentioned, supposed to be within the length of the praetorium, 12 feet by 10½, which had been opened before and the pavement taken up, were found a thin piece of beaten gold, a brass ring, stag's horns, a rude relief of three female figures sitting in three niches about a foot high; a piece of stone with a few letters; another with a wheel of six spokes, six inches diameter. This might have been a temple of the Deae Matres, represented in relief. They found among the foundations slates with holes and iron nails in them [u]. The camp is formed on th edge of a high bank overhanging the sea: and about 63 paces south-west from it is a tumulus 250 in circumference, 42 feet slope, and 14 feet perpendicular, called the King's burying place. Mr. Senhouse opened it 1763, but found under different strata of soil (not of stones, as Mr. Gordon), only some bones of an ox [x]. Mr. Horlsey [y] and Mr. Gordon place OLENACVM here on the river Elen; elsewhere [z] the former had placed it at Virosidum. Mr. Camden has little authority for calling it Volantium. {marginal = Pl.IX fig.4.6.8.} Horlsey's LXII. LXVI. LXVII. are now in a summer-house. A gold coin of Nero was found at Elenborough about two years ago, on the sea shore within flood mark. NERO CAESAR AVGVSTVS Rev. an emperor and empress, AVGVSTVS AVGVSTA [a]. {marginal = Dereham. / Dearham} The church of Dereham was given by Alice de Romely, widow, to Giseburn abbey. In one of the windows is an inscription, communicated by Mr. G. Smith to the Gentleman's Magazine, XXI. 112, where it was explained by Mr. Pegge, 255, to mean Has fenestras Galfridus Gudng reparavit Anno Domini MCL [b]. {marginal = Elne r.} Near the head of the river Elne Randulp de Engaine chief forester of Englewood permitted the prior of Carlisle to build an hospital for relief of distressed travellers who might happen to be troubled by thieves or prejudiced by snow and storms in winter. After the hospital was built a church was erected [c]. {marginal = Moricambe.} Of Moricambe see before in Lancashire, where it is settled at Cartmel, the aestuary in the north part of that county into which the rivers from Kendal and Ambleside empty themselves [d]. {marginal = Holme Cultrain. / Holme Coultram Abbey} "Holme Cultrayne abbay of white monkes [e]," or Cistercians, founded by David, king of Scots, or his son Henry, valued at £.427 [f]." Though not a 185.e -- Horsl. 268. 283. 185.f -- Horsl. Cumb. LXV. 280. Stuk. II. 48. Pl.73. Gruter CXIV. 1. Gordon XLIV. 185.g -- not as Mr. Pennant, p.53, a high pile and a wheel, probably denoting the having succeeded in opening some great road. 185.h -- Ward in Horsley, 284,285. 185.i -- XLV. 2. p.99. 185.k -- Horsl. 284. Cumb. lxxi. 185.l -- Cumb. lxx. 283. Stuk. 185.m -- Stuk. II. pl.73. 185.n -- Gord. xlv. 3. p.99. Horsl. 284. 185.o -- Gord. p.100. Stuk. Ib. Horsl. lxxii. Pennant, p.53,54. 185.p -- Stuk. Ib. 185.q -- Stuk. II. 49. Horsl. 285. Pen. 53,54. 185.r -- The supposed Gaul may be parallelled with two reliefs of Roman soldiers in Horsley's Scotland, XI, and Yorkshire, VIII. p.169. and 308. 185.s -- See such an one at Chesterton, Huntingdonshire, Vol.II. p.163. 185.t -- Pennant, ib. 185.u -- Archaeol. II. 58. 185.x -- Archaeol. II. 54. Mr. Burn II. 112. says the late Humphry Senhouse, esq; opened it 1742. 185.y -- P.481. 185.z -- P.113. 185.a -- Reliq. Gal. p.447. See Occo, p.89, where such a coin is given in silver, 185.b -- Burn, II. 111.113 185.c -- Ib. II. 134. 185.d -- Horsl. 372. 185.e2 -- Lel. VII. 71. 185.f2 -- Tan. 76. mitred Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (186) {marginal = Wulsty c. / Wulsty Castle} mitred abbey the abbot had summons to parliament in the reigns of Edward I. and II. [g] The steeple fell down Jan. 1. 1600, and beat down great part of the chancel, which was rebuilt 1603, and afterwards burnt down with the church except the vaulted south aisle. The chancel was rebuilt by the vicar Edward Mandeville, and the church repaired by the parishioners [h]. The west porch was built by Robert Chambers, abbot t. Henry VII. and VIII. his rebus being on it, and his gravestone robbed of its brasses is shewn in the ruined choir. Only the nave now remains [i]. The manor belongs to the heir of Governor Stephenson. Within the parish and lordship stood Wulstey castle, formerly as it is said a very strong building moated round, and according to tradition erected by the religious for the safe keeping of their charters and records [k]. {marginal = Michael Scot / Scot, Michael} Michael Scot was a Durham man, who applied himself to the abstruse Aristotelian philosophy, which he pretended to translate from Avicenna, and dedicated to Frederic II. emperor of Germany, whose astrologer he was. Some of his philological and astrological works have been printed, and Dempster says some remained in his time in Scotland, which his countrymen would not dare to open for fear of the devilish pranks that might be played by them [l]. {marginal = Old Carlisle. Pl.IX. fig.9. Pl.X. fig.1. / roman fort, Old Carlisle; Olenacum; roman inscription} The Ala Augusta continued at Old Carlisle, as we learn from inscriptions from A.D. 188 to A.D. 242. [m] The Notitia at Olenacum seems to call it Ala Herculea [n]. A military way has gone from the wall southward from Old Carlisle to Elenborough [o]. The ruins of the Roman town and station are very grand and conspicuous on a large and visible military way leading directly to Carlisle and the wall, and there is no other station on the wall between it and Carlisle. There seems to have been a double rampart round it. The river Wiza runs about half a mile from the south and west side, and from the west is a fine prospect to the sea [p]. The first of Mr. Camden;'s inscriptions is now in the west wall of the garden at Drumburgh. Mr. Gale in Phil. Trans. No.357, reads the first word of the 5th line LING. N. quasi Lingonensis for the name of the province or place whence Tiberius or Justinus came [q]. Another found here belonging to the same ala has been mentioned at Elenborough, and is Horsley's lvii. The next may have been on a defaced altar in the hayloft at Drumburgh [r]. The third [s] was brought away by sir Robert Cotton to Connington, and is now at Trinity college Cambridge [t]. The letters rude and uneven. The Ala is here called Gordiana, the date A.D. 242, under the reign of Gordian III. [v] The altars at Wigton are probably gone. The milliary was in Horsley's time at Naworth castle [x], now at Rookby. The other two are now lost [y], but the second of them may be a dedication to Ocean, as Ward, or to Mars, and Mercury, and the next two may be effaced from two altars now at Drumburgh [z]. The other articles mentioned by Mr. Camden I take to be Lares. Another inscription on an altar by the ala Augusta found here 1756 is copied from Gent. Mag. Sept. 1756, and is to be thus read: {marginal = Pl.X. fig.[ ]} Jovi optimo maximo pro salute Imperatoris Lucii Septimi Severi Augusti nostri Equites alae Augustae curante Egnatio Vere- cundo prae- secto posuerunt. {marginal = Pl.X. fig.[ ] Pl.XI. fig.[ ]} Two more inscriptions found here are copied from Gent. Mag. May 1757. XXVII. p.220 [a]. Old Carlisle is in the parish of Westward [b]. {marginal = Wigton. / Wigton} At Wigton, a market town, is an hospital founded 1725 by John Thomlinson, M.A. rector of Rothbury, c. Northumberland, for six poor widows of clergymen of the diocese of Carlisle, or of that part of Cumberland which is in the diocese of Chester, incorporated by the name of the governess and sisters of the college of matrons, or hospital of Christ, in Wigton, c. Cumberland, and endowed with £.54. per annum. A school was also established by the procurement of the said founder and his brother [c]. Here was antiently an hospital, or free chapel dedicated to St. Leonard [d], to which Mr. Pegge is of opinion belongs a seal found in Pickering castle, c. York, and given me 1785 by Mr. Simpson surveyor there. It is of wood, which is an unusual material, not unlike a butter pat, and has the representation of the deity with the crucifix, circumscribed SEGILLVM WIGHTON. Dr. Burn says the parish church is a very old building, which seems never to have been rebuilt since the time of Odaard de Loriz its antient lord,who in the Chronicon Cumbriae is said to have built it [e]. {marginal = BLATUM BULGIUM. / Blatum Bulgium; Bowness-on-Solway; roman inscription} Horsley takes BLATUM BULGIUM and Castra Exploratorum to have been on the north of the wall [f], neither of them being ranked in the Notitia among the stations ad lineam valli, nor does the distance agree from Old Carlisle. He therefore reads it with Dr. Gale agreeable to a MS. and printed copy [g], Ab lato bulgio, i.e. ab lato aestuario, Solway frith, and places it at Middleby [h], or Burnswork in England: the one might be the castra aestiva, the other the station[i]. At Bulness he places the Tunnocelum of the Notitia, where the cohors AElia classica, or of marines was stationed [k]. The village now stands as the fort did on a rock or promontory on the edge of the Solway frith. The remains of the wall are considerable not far from hence on the east, but not at all on the west. What Mr. Camden took for its foundations in the water a mile beyond Boulness was rather a small fort [l]. There was at Appleby part of an inscription said to have been found here: IMP. M. AVRE TRIVMPHAI PERSAR. under which Mr. Bainbridge added as a comment: MARC AVREL PHILO BLATI BVLGII. [m] 186.g -- Burn, II. 176. 186.h -- Ib. 179. ex reg. paroch. 186.i -- Ib. 181, 182. 186.k -- Ib. 183, 188. 186.l -- Tan. Bibl. Brit. 525. 186.m -- Horsl. 92, 93. 186.n -- Ib. 95. 186.o -- Ib. 110. 186.p -- Ib. 112. 186.q -- Horsl. 276. Cumb. lvi. 186.r -- Horsl. 279. 186.s -- Horlsl. lv. 276. Grut. MVI. 8. 186.t -- This is copied from Mr. Lamborne's plate of inscriptions at Trinity college. 186.u -- Horsl. 276. 186.x -- Ib. 277. lviii. 186.y -- Ib. 278. 186.z -- Ib. 277, 278. 186.a -- They were incorrectly engraved there, vol.XXV. p.360. 186.b -- Burn, II. 144. 147. 186.c -- Ib. 195. 197. 186.d -- MS. valor abp. Sancroft. Willis, Mit. Ab. II. 56. Tan. Not. Mon. 78. 186.e -- Burn, II. 191. 186.f -- Horsl. 67. 186.g -- Ib. 34. 186.h -- Ib. 114. Bwlch, a passage, Bulch Gvortigern. Hist. of Alchester, 698. Bulge (Cumbric) an inscription scil. of the sea. Gale MS. [2]. 186.i -- P. 409. 186.k -- P. 92. 103. 109. 186.l -- P. 157-8. 186.m -- P. 267. Here Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (187) Here also was found a small bronze Mercury, or Victory, which came into the hands of John Aglionby, esq; a curious preserver of such things [11]. Dr. Gale [n] make Blatum Bulgium and Castra Exploratorum the same, and adds in an MS. note on his Itinerary, that when he was at Carlisle 1725 he was told by Mr. Goodman, who had seen them, that there were beyond Boulness ad occasum aestivum the ruins of three castra exploratoria, which commanded all Solway frith. Mr. Horsley puts GABROSENTUM at Drumburgh [o], where is a fort about five chains square, the ramparts large, and the ditch very deep. Abundance of stones have been taken out of it, and it is probable the house and garden walls were built of them, whence, and not from its form, it has the name of castle. the inscriptions here are already recited p.186 [p]. It belonged in bishop Gibson's time to Mr. Aglionby before-mentioned. {marginal = Boulness. / Hadrian's Wall} "Bolnes is at the poynt or playne of the river of Edon, where is a little poor steple as a fortelet for a brunt, and it is on the higher side of the river of Edon, about a eight miles from Cair Luel. About this Bolnesse is part of the Pict wal evidently remaining, and it may be supposed that it is called Bolnes, as who should say the Wal Yee, or poynt, or end [q]." Mr. Routh in a letter to Mr. Gale, dated Nov. 1, 1741, says, "the altar at Boulness was found about two years and a half ago in some adjacent grounds belonging to one Mr. Lawson, who placed it over a barn door fronting the street where it now remains. There seems to be an oblique stroke under the P. in posuit, which has occasioned all the copies I have seen to give it PROSUIT, but the late marks of masons' tools on it will account for that. The H in COH is scarce legible, nor could I perceive the least signs of numerals after it, though there is room enough. The altar may be about 18 inches high, and 12 broad: the letters much worn, but of the Lower Empire cut." The following copy of it was taken 1739 for sir John Clerk by the schoolmaster of the place on a ladder 16 feet high, it being then built up in a new chapel belonging to Mr. Lawson. I. O. M. PRO SALVTE D. D. N. N. GALLI ET VOLVSIANI AVGG SVLICIVS SECVNDINVS US. TRIB CO R. POSVIT. Sir John adds 1739 in his letter to Mr. Gale; "The station has been a large square, fortified with ditches faced with square stones, but only an old square vault remains. Several walls are here very visible for a mile or two, in some places levelled, in others eight, nine, and ten feet high. The facing square stones, of which 1000 cart loads remain that have not been used for houses or hedges. These were probably brought from the Caledonian side, where the county abounds for several miles with it and limestone. The inside is generally irregular, and sometimes in the herring bone fashion: the cement a mixture of lime and small gravel, with some shells beat together, and poured in with water from the top till the interstices were filled up. I have followed this method, which effectually keeps out air. I cannot think this Tunnocelum, but Blatum Bulgium, which has the greatest affinity with Boulness, nor that the Roman wall, very conspicuous near this place, run further into the sea, but rather ended there, the sea having in the Roman time run higher by several feet than now, for even at Cramond, four miles above Leith, was a Roman harbour, where the sea sometimes washes [r]." Mr. Gilpin gave the Society of Antiquaries, 1740, an account of this altar then built up in Mr. Lawson's barn at Carlisle. {marginal = Drumburgh. / Drumburgh} "At Drumburgh the lord Dakers father builded upon old ruines a prety pile for defens of the country. It is almost in the middle way betwixt Bolnes and Burgh. The stones of the Pict wall were pulled down to build it, for the wall is very nigh it [s]." {marginal = Burgh on Sands. / roman fort, Burgh by Sands; Axelodunum; roman inscription} Burgh on Sands is supposed by Horsley [t] to be Axelodunum. The station has been a little east of the church near what is called the Old Castle, where are manifest remains of its west rampart, six chains long, and Severus' wall seems to have formed the northernmost. Stones with lime are frequently plowed up there, and urns. Here is an illegible insciption [u], two plain altars, and a large stone chest in the church-yard, and a coffin. About a quarter of a mile west in Watchfull field has been a castellum, where quantities of stones have been dug up, and a pavement struck upon near the wall [x]. An altar inscribed, DEO BELA TVCA was dug up in the vicar's garden [y]; the 5th to that deity in England. Another inscription published in Gent. Mag. Aug. 1749, p.367, runs thus: ALA TVN P. PO. S: CENSORVVS SALVTE SVA ES [ET] POS. On the spot where Edward I died, the memory of which event was preserved by some great stones rolled on it, is erected a handsome square pillar nine yards and an half high with this inscription in Roman capitals on the west side: Memoriae aeternae Edvardi I. regis Angliae longe clarissimi, qui in belli apparatu contra Scotos occupatus hic in castris obiit 7 Julii A.O. 1307. On the south, Nobilissimus princeps Henricus Howard dux Norfolciae comes mareshall. Angliae, comes Arund. &c. ... ... ab Edvardo I. rege Angliae oriundus. P. 1685. On the north, Johannes Aglionby J.C.F.C. i.e. juris consultus fieri curavit. "Burgh yn the sand standeth a mile off from the hither bank of Edon. It is a village by the which remain the ruins of a great place, now clene desolated, where king Edward the first died. Burgh 187.11 -- G. 187.n -- P. 34,35. 187.o -- P. 109. 157. 187.p -- Burn, II. 214. Cumb. lvi. lvii. 187.q -- Lel. VII. 69. Burn, II. 242. 187.r -- Baron Clerk's Letter in Reliq. Galeanae, p.329,330. 187.s -- Lel. VII. 69. Burn, II. 212. 187.t -- P. 109. 187.u -- Horsl. Cumb. xiii. 187.x -- Ib. p.156. 266. 187.y -- Archaeol. I. 308. "stondith Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (188) {continues last paragraph}"stondith from Bolnes three miles and from Cair Luel four or five, and longid sometime to the Morvilles. Here was 15 years ago the lord Maxwell sore woundid, many slain and drowned in Edon [z]." This relates to the battle of Sollom moss 1524. Burgh belonged to the Lucys and Multons, and passed by the heiress of the latter to the Dacres of Dacre castle, to the coheiress of a younger branch of whom this barony was allotted, and her descendant in the 4th generation Henry Howard, duke of Norfolk, sold it about 1689 to sir John Lowther, bart. ancestor of the present possessor [a]. {marginal = Dacre. / Dacre Castle} At Dacre is the shell of a magnificent castle, once the seat of the Dacre family, who took their name from Acres in the Holy Land; but here are no remains of the monastery, nor does it appear to have subsisted since the Conquest [b]. Mr. Gale derives the name from the Cohors Dacorum stationed here. Here are two rivers Glan, whence Labbé on the Notitia writes it Ambo Glanna [c]. The family of Dacre ended in George lord Dacre 1569, whose great great uncle's daughter marrying sir Richard Fynes, chamberlain to Edward IV. he was created lord Dacre of the South, and his descendants still enjoy the title [d]. {marginal = Delamayn. / Dalemain} Near Dacre is Delamayn, the mansion-house of the Hassels, held of the barony of Greystock in cornage [e]. The church is said to have been erected by the Dacres, instead of a mean one half a mile distant, which probably belonged to the monastery. In the chancel is a cross-legged knight in stone, and the windows are full of the arms of Dacre, single and quartering Vipont and Clifford [f]. {marginal = Arthuret. Solom or Solway moss. / Solway Moss; flows} In Arthuret parish was born and buried Archibald Armstrong, jester to James and Charles I. who was banished from court for speaking too freely of archbishop Laud's violent measure, which had exasperated the Scots by forcing the liturgy on them. Dr. Hugh Todd was rector of this parish. Within it lies a noted morass, commonly called Solom moss, from a small village of that name on the Scotch side. It is famous in history for the defeat of the Scots in Henry VIII's time by sir Thomas Wharton, of which see before, p.51. 156. The few Scotch runaways of 1524 perished in this moss, and some peat diggers are said to have found in it a few years ago the skeleton of a trooper and his horse in complete armour [g]. Solom or Solway Moss consists of 1600 acres, raised a little above the cultivated tract, a mass of thin peaty mud, with a crust too weak in the driest summer to bear a man's weight. In December 1769 it burst its banks by the excessive winter rains of three days continuance preceeding, and the too near approaches of the peat diggers, which had weakened the crust at a gap about 50 yards wide. About 300 acres of moss discharged themselves in a black stream charged with large masses of peat, which surrounded the cottages, and covered 400 acres of cultivated land. Many cattle were drowned, but not one human life lost. It filled the whole valley, leaving behind it great heaps of turf from 3 to 15 and 30 feet, memorials of its height, and at last reached and fell into the Esk. The surface of the moss was reduced near 25 feet sunk into a hollow form [h]. {marginal = Solway moss.} In that part called Solway Flow, in the year 1771, was a memorable out-burst of water, moss, gravel, sand, and stones, which spread over and destroyed about 600 acres of fine level fertile ground, and totally altered the face of that part of the country. The moss had been observed to have risen imperceptibly for a long time before. It began to move in the night of November 16, [i] and continued in movement for three days slowly forward, so that the inhabitants generally had time to get off their cattle and other moveables before their houses were burried or rendered inaccessible. The mouth of the breach was about 20 yards wide, and when it began to flow was in depth between five and six yards. By this eruption 28 families were driven from their habitations, and their grounds rendered totally useless and seemed irrecoverable by reason of the depth of covering of the morass and other rubbish to the depth of at least 15 feet. but by means of hushing upwards of 100 acres have been cleared; and, by the indefatigable industry of the owner, it is thought the whole will be recovered, though it will be attended with great expence. Out of the aforesaid moss, Dr. Todd says, have frequently been dug human bones, silver coins of the later ages, earthen pots, iron, and brass weapons, with oak and fir trees of unusual magnitude [k]. Near the place called Chapel Flash, stood antiently a small oratory, in which in 1345, a league between the Scots and English about fixing the limits of both kingdoms, was, in a solemn and religious manner, sworn to and confirmed by commissioners appointed for that purpose. At present nothing remains of the chapel but the name. [l]. Pelling moss near Garstang in Lancashire had made such an irruption in the present century, and Chately moss between Manchester and Warrington in Leland's time [m], with this difference, that the latter so entirely changed its place as to leave a fair plain valley in return for the ground it covered. {marginal = Penrith. / Penrith; Giant's Grave; St Andrew, Penrith; Penrith Beacon; plague} "Pereth, a market town by S. 61 miles from Carluel, where is a strong castle of the king's, and stondeth on a litle water by force cut out of Peterel. But Pereth standith not half a mile from the river of Emot and a mile from the town or castel of Burgham, that longeth to the earls of Cumberland. In Perith is one parish church and a grey friary [n]." A castel of the kinges by the town [o]." Penrith lies in a bottom, the beacon standing on a high hill as you enter the road above which is the course. A fine valley opens to the west as you descend from the Carlisle road into a very long suburb neatly paved. The town is considerable and handsome, having a very large market. The church was rebuilt of brick 1720, except the steeple. Here is a freeschool. On the north side in the church-yard are two square obelisks, of a single stone each, 11 or 12 feet high, about 12 inches diameter, and 12 by 8 at the sides, the highest about 18 inches diameter, with something like a transverse piece to each, and mortified into a round base. They are 14 feet asunder, and between them is a grave inclosed between four semicircular stones of unequal lengths of five, six, and four and an half, and two feet high, having on the outsides rude carving and the tops 188.z -- Lel. VII. 69. 188.a -- Burn, II. 218,219. 188.b -- Ib. 378. G. Tan. 73. 188.c -- Gale MS. n. 188.d -- Dugd. II. 23. 188.e -- G. Burn, II. 383. 188.f -- Ib. 382. 188.g -- Pennant's Voy. to the Hebrides, p.67. 188.h -- Ib. 188.i -- Walker's letter to the earl of Bute in Phil. Trans. LXII. p.123, says December 16. See Gent. Mag. XLI. 568. XLIX. 65. 188.k -- Burn, II. 473. See also Gent. Mag. XLIX. p.65, with a plan of the eruption, and XLI. 567. 188.l -- Burn, 474. 188.m -- Lel. VII. 56. See before, p.136. 188.n -- Lel. VII. 71. 188.o -- Ib. 72. notched Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (189) notched. This is called the Giant's Grave, and ascribed to sir Ewan Caesarius, who is said to have been as tall as one of the columns, and capable of stretching his arms from one to the other to have destroyed robbers and wild boars in Englewood forest, and to have had an hermitage hereabouts called sir Hugh's parlour [p]. From the latter part of this tradition Dr. Todd describes the four stones as cut in the form of boars, which, unless he saw them less sunk in the ground than at present, can only mean that they were cut round, and perhaps rough on the edge like the back of those animals. The Doctor supposes these pillars were intended to place corpses on at the north or Death's door of the church; but their height contradicts this, and the name of Grave, given to it by uniform tradition, assigns it as the burying-place of some considerable person, whose eminence is expressed by the distance of the stones asunder [q]. Mr. Sandford says the place was opened in his time, and the great long hand-bones of a man, and a broad sword were found [r]. A little to the west of these is a stone called the Giant's Thumb, six feet high, 14 inches at the base contracted to 10, which is no more than a rude cross, such as is at Langtown in this county and elsewhere: the circle of the cross 18 inches diameter [s]. On the north wall of the vestry without is this inscription A.D. 1598, ex gravi peste quae regionibus hisce incubuit obierunt apud Penrith 2260, Kendal 2500, Richmond 2200, Carlisle 1160. Posteri avortite vos & vivite. The parish register says the plague broke out at Carlisle October 3, 1597, and raged here from September 22, 1597, to January 5, 1598, and that only 680 persons were buried here: so that Penrith must have been put for the centre of some district. At the little village of Eden hall the register says 42 person died in this year. The plague raged at Penrith 1380, when the Scots breaking in at the time of a fair, carried it home to their own country, where it made dreadful havoc. The wooden market-house is now gone. The castle is a large square building, on high ground to the west, single trenched, and is as old as Henry III. [t] Here was an house of Grey friars, founded t. Edward II. or before [u]. This town was burnt by the Scots 19 Edward III. and 8 Richard II. Richard III. when duke of Gloucester, lodged in the castle, to check the Scots, and enlarged the works with stones as it is said from Mayboro' before-mentioned [x]. Dr. Todd derives the name of Penrith from Petriana three miles north of it, out of which, he says, it rose [y]. At the Conquest the manor of Penrith and the forest of Englewood, in which it is situate, were in the possession of the Scots, who were soon after dispossessed, but kept up their claim to the three counties of Cumberland, Westmorland, and Northumberland, to which king John seems to have consented on payment of 15,000 marks by William king of Scotland, and an intermarriage of John with one of his daughters; but these claims were renounced by king Alexander to Henry III. on the latter's granting him 200 librates of land in this county or Northumberland, in any town where there is no castle, or in places in the said counties. Alexander's son and successor married Henry's daughter, and had the said land confirmed to him, and a bond of 5000 marks of silver for her marriage portion. Hence these lands had the name of the queen's haims or desmenes. They were Penrith, with the hamlets of Langwathby, Scotby, Great Salkeld, and Carleton. Baliol held them till Edward I. quarreling with him seized them, and granted them to Anthony Bek, bishop of Durham, from whom the parliament took them, and they remained in the crown. Richard II. gave them to John duke of Bretaign and Richmond, and shortly after to Ralph Neville of Westmorland, whose heir Richard of Warwick, being slain at Barnet 11 Edward IV. the whole estate for want of heirs male reverted to the crown, and continued as part of the royal desmene till William III. gave the honour of Penrith and all its dependances with the appurtenances within the forest of Englewood, whose boundaries may be seen in Burn, III. 522. to William Bentink, afterwards created earl of Portland, and they are still held by his great grandson William Henry duke of Portland [z]. A silver fibula of coarse workmanship and uncommon magnitude and weight was found April 1784, at Huskew pike, an eminence about three miles from Penrith on the Keswick road. The diameter of the circle is seven inches and an half, the length of the tongue 20 inches and ¾, the weight of the whole 25 ounces: the studs or buttons are hollow, and fitted on without solder. It has never been burnished, as appears by the hammer marks remaining [a]. {marginal = Englewood forest. / Inglewood Forest} "Yn the forest of Ynglewood, vi myls from Caerluel, appere ruins of a castel, called Castle Luen [b]." Englewood forest was disforested by Henry VIII. who allowed the inhabitants greater liberty and freer use of it. Hutton and Edenhall were parishes in it t. Henry I. who gave them to Carlisle church, and Wedderhall, Warwick, Lazonby, Skelton, Sowerby, St. Mary's, St. Cuthbert's, Carlisle, and Dalston, were all included in it, or bordering on it, as early as the Conquest. It was 16 miles long from Penrith to Carlisle; and Edward I. hunting in it is said to have killed 200 bucks in one day [c]. It is now a dreary moor with high distant hills on both sides, and a few stone farm houses and cottages on the road side. The rev. Mr. Robert Patten of Carlisle or Penrith, who had been in Denmark and at Tunis, writes thus to Mr. Horsley, Jan. 30, 1730/1: {marginal = roman road, Old Penrith} "I measured the Roman causeway which goes close by Old Penrith in several places, and find it answer 21 feet. The old castle, as the country people call it, is 130 yards in front, a visible entry exactly in the middle, with a large foss on all sides, the breadth 80 yards [d]. This is what Camden calls Petriana, from the small river Peterel that runs under it. I find the Roman way runs over Penrith fields to Brougham, where has been a station; and, at two places near the road I observed two tumuli, one of them with two circles of stones, the other on a raised square piece of ground. We have several tumuli which I believe Danish, having seen in Den- 189.p -- Burn, II. 410. 189.q -- G. Archaeol. II. 48. Pennant, 1769, 253, 410. 189.r -- Burn, Ib. 410. 189.s -- Ib. 189.t -- Pennant, ib. G. 189.u -- Tan. p.77. 189.x -- Burn, Ib. 404. 189.y -- Burn, Ib. 395. 189.z -- Ib. 395-402. 189.a -- Gent. Mag. LV. 1785, p.347. and plate. 189.b -- Lel. VII.72. 189.c -- Chron. Lanercost. G. 189.d -- Compare Horsley, p.111. mark Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (190) [Den]mark some of the same fashion, and 24 stones set in circles: and very near my house is a large one called Harnesly hill, but in writings Harold's hill. "I have this account of Dr. Todd's history of Cumberland from one that perused it, that there are several good remarks and observations in it on Roman remains in Cumberland and Westmorland, but he has intermixed the affairs of the country families and antiquities of churches with the Scotch incursions, in order to engage the gentry and clergy here to come into subscription [e]." {marginal = VOREDA. Old Penrith. / Old Penrith; Voreda; Plumpton Wall; roman inscription} Horsley places VOREDA, Ant. Bremetenracum Not. Berida of Ravennas, at Old Penrith, and removes PETRIANA to Cambeck fort or Castle steeds [f]. The remains of the outbuildings and station are very considerable; the fort above six chains (132 yards) long, and five broad, containing about three acres. Plumton wall is the village near it, and the house nearest the station the Lough. The station, now called Castle steeds, lies about 200 yards east from the Peterel, the ramparts high, and the ditch pretty perfect; the entrances all visible in the middle of the sides, the praetorium appears near the north rampart, and great ruins of a town are on the west side next the river. The east and west ramparts of the station measure 140 yards, and the north and south 120. A military way goes hence towards Keswic, and part of another between this place and Carlisle is found above foundations of the houses [g]. All the inscriptions which Mr. Camden saw here are lost [h]. Gadenius on the first has been reckoned among our northern tutelar deities by Mr. Burton, but Mr. Horsley thinks it the name of a deceased person, for whom Ulpius Trajanus Martius erected this monument. If the Gadeni were here, might he not be a Gadenian? The 3d may be read, Dis manibus, Flavio Martio senatori (or seniori) in colonia or civitate (or cohorti) Carvetiorum quaestori taking the o after this word for a stop) vixit annos 45, &c. TIT. in the 4th is titulus, a word that occurs in Gruter frequently for a monumental stone. In the 2d AICCETUOS and LATTIE are nominative cases of the names of a mother and daughter. Gruter [i] has L. Atilio incorrectly [k]. Woodford's MS. gives one like the conclusion of this C. LIMISIVS CHARISSIMAE CONIVGI ET PIEN TISS. FILIAE ... ... POSVIT VXOR VIXIT ANNOS XXXX FILIA XX, [l] {marginal = Pl.X. f.5. Pl.X. f.6. fig.7.} Since Mr. Camden's time the inscription in Pl.X. fig.4 has been found at Lough, and placed in the garden of Dr. Fleming, dean of Carlisle, at Great Salkeld, broken in three pieces and part lost [m]. It is the second among us in honour of Alexander Severus and his mother Mammaea here called Mater Castrorum, as other empresses on other inscriptions and the whole imperial family. An altar to Jupiter [n]. Another [o] to Mogon, the local deity of the Gadeni, and a similar altar, but plain, and two other carved stones [p]. An inscription to Jupiter and the emperors of the name of Philips [q]. {marginal = Plumpton.} At Plumpton, the antient Voreda or Petriana, near Penrith, was found an altar, inscribed, Deo Sancto Belatuca aram in the possession of capt. Dalston [r]. Browne Willis communicated to the Society of Antiquaries 1747, a stone with a bust and this inscription: D. M. GEMELLI. C. A FL. HLARO. S. H. F. C. found at Castle Steeds near the great fort Petriana. Mr. Ward, reads it D. M. Gemelli Caius Aurelius Flavius Hilario sepulcrum hoc fieri curavit. Gemellus occurs at Binchester, Horsl. Durh. xxix. and Hilario in Gruter, and the head he supposes Pluto. Libert being before Hilario in Gruter, he thinks this may be Flavius libertus. Plumpton park is held by the Lowthers under the crown [s]. {marginal = Long Meg. Addingham. / Long Meg and Her Daughters; Addingham} Long Meg and her daughters , in Addingham parish, q.d. Ald Hengham, a town at the old hanging stones, is a druidical circle, 300 feet diameter [t], of 100 stones [u], of which 67 are now standing. At the south side 15 paces south-west at the distance of 70 feet or 40 yards is an upright squarish stone near 15 feet in girth, and 12 high, and near two yards square at bottom and hollow at top like a Roman altar, one of its angles turned to the circle, and each angle answering to a cardinal point, and near it next the circle four large stones, or as Stukeley three, forming an altar or sacellum, and two towards the east, west, and north [x]. In the middle of the circle are two round plots of ground, of a different colour from the rest, and more stony and barren. Towards Glasenby is a fine spring, and another surrounded by a large but shallow foss and vallum. South-west from this work in the next inclosure is a smaller circle of 20 stones, 50 feet diameter, and at some distance above it another single stone, regarding it as Meg does her circle [y]. {marginal = Kirk Oswald. / Kirkoswald Castle} "Kirk Oswald castle south south-east 12 miles from Cairluel, and south from Naward, standeth almost on Eden [z]." It was much improved by sir Hugh Morbill, who got the town a market t. John [a], and finished, and moated by Thomas Dacre, who married the heiress of Greystock; but it is now ruined [b]. "Northward from Ousby on the river Eden standeth the capital grand castle Kirk Oswald, and a very fine church there and quondam college: now the noble mansion-house of the late sir Timothy Fetherstonhaugh, colonel of the king's side, taken at Wigan when the late lord Witherington was slain. Sir Timothy was taken prisoner and excuted by beheading at Chester, by the command of the unworthy col. Mitton, after the said knight had quarter given him. This great castle of Kirk Oswald was once the fairest fabrick that ever eyes looked upon. The hall I have seen 100 yards long, and the great pourtraiture of king Brute, lying in the end of the roof of this hall, and of all his succeeding successors, kings of England, portraieted to the waist, their visages, hats, feathers, garbs, and habits, in the roof of this hall; now translated to Naward 190.e -- MS. mong Mr. Gale's correspondence in Mr. Allan's hands. 190.f -- P. 107. 190.g -- P. 111, 112. Burn, II. 420-423. 190.h -- Horsl. 273-4. 190.i -- DCLIII. 190.k -- Horsl. 273,274. 190.l -- Ib. 190.m -- Horsl. Cumb. li. 190.n -- Ib. lii. 190.o -- Ib. liii. 190.p -- Ib. liv. 190.q -- Ib. liia. pref.xx. 190.r -- Archaeol III. 104. 190.s -- Burn, II. 420. 190.t -- 80 yards, Todd. 190.u -- 72, Todd. 190.x -- Hutchinson, 103. Gent. Mag. 1752. 311. Stuk. I. 47. Burn, II. 448. 190.y -- Stuk. ib. 190.z -- Lel. VII. 72. 190.a -- Burn, II. 424. 190.b -- Mag. Brit. I. 380. Buck. castle Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (191) castle, where they are placed in the roof of the hall, and at the head thereof, where many of them still remain. This castle was the antient palace of the lord Multon marrying the lord Vaux's heir lord of Naward of Gilsland; and afterward of the late lord Dacre, and now came by lineal descent to the noble earl of Sussex with the lands adjoining, and many brave parks and villages belonging thereto [c]." The Fetherstonhaughs were a Northumberland family, whose antient seat was at a place of that name. Their house, it is said, was formerly on a hill (where are two stones called Fether stones), and was moated about for defence against the Scots. But, upon the ruin of this, the house was afterwards built in the holme or valley under the hill, which they there call haugh, and the family writ their names de Fetherston, and sometimes de Fetherstonhaugh. They first came to Kirk Oswald in the beginning of the last century, where they yet continue [d]. {marginal = College, Kirkoswald} The church of Kirk Oswald was turned into a college of 12 secular priests 1523: and, at the dissolution of great tithes, passed with it into lay hands; but the vicarage has been augmented by queen Anne's bounty. The choir is so disproportionate to the body, that bishop Nicolson supposed it was rebuilt by some of the lords Dacre when the church was made collegiate, as their arms and those of the Cliffords are painted in most of the windows. The belfrey is placed without the church on the top of a hill to the east [e]. {marginal = Great Salkled. / Great Salkeld} The church of Great Salkeld seems to have been built at a different time from the steeple, and the latter seems of later erection, and intended for a secure hold or retreat for the rector: so the iron door below and the good cellar with several chimnies within persuade us to believe. Bishop Nicolson supposes it the work of archdeacon Close, brother of bishop Close, in the middle of the 5th century who lies buried under a blue stone robbed of its brass in the choir. The bridge was rebuilt 1360 [f]. {marginal = Little Salkeld. / Little Salkeld} Little Salkeld is a manor in Addingham parish [g]. {marginal = Ullswater} Of Ulleswater see in Westmorland, p.162. {marginal = Armathwaite. / Armathaite Place} Armathwaite castle belongs to William Milborne, esq., by inheritance of Robert Sanderson, who bought it of Richard Shelton, esq., 1712, whose grandfather rebuilt and endowed the chapel here. In the castle was preserved in Mr. Machel's time a broad sword with a basket hilt; on one side of the blade EDWARDUS, on the other PRINS ANGLIE. It was probably left there in Edward I's time, and the prince might lodge here when his father's headquarters were at Lanercost [h]. Here was a small Benedictine nunnery, founded by Rufus, valued at £.18. 18s. [i]. {marginal = Linstock. / Linstock Castle} Linstock was granted with Carleton by Henry I. to Walter his chaplain, who took upon him a religious habit in St. Mary's priory, Carlisle, and with the king's consent gave both manors to that in frank almoyne for ever, and became prior there. For some time the bishop and convent held all their lands in common: but when the first partition was made by Gualo the pope's legate this barony fell to the bishop, and this castle was his seat so late as 1293 [k]. {marginal = Graystock. / Greystoke Castle} The barony of Graystock was granted by Ranulph de Meschines to Liulf, and Henry I. confirmed it to his son, whose posterity took name from it, and his great grandson was Fitz Walter, mentioned by Mr. Camden, and died 12 John. William lord Graystock, who married Merlay, was his great great grandson. It is now in Charles duke of Norfolk [l]. "Graystok castel of the lord Dacre [m]." Greystock church was collegiate for a provost and six secular canons, founded by Ralph lord of Greystock 1382, valued at £.40. per ann. [n] {marginal = Hutton John / Hutton John} Hutton John in this parish was the seat of the Huddlestons from the reign of Mary, of which was John, the popish priest who assisted Charles II. in his escape after the battle of Worcester, and administered the sacrament to him on his death-bed, and dying 1704, aged 96, was buried in the body of the chapel at Somerset-house, where it may be doubted if he rests in peace. His elder brother Andrew was one of the first in this county who declared for the Revolution, and seized a ship loaded with ammunition for James II. His grandson now owns the estate [o]. {marginal = Nunnery. / Armathwaite Nunnery} Nunnery in Ainstable parish was a small house of Benedictine nuns, founded by William Rufus a.r. 2. At the dissolution here were only a prioress and three nuns, and their ample revenues were reduced to £.18. 18s. per annum. [p] It was granted to William Graham, and passed by exchange to the Aglionbys present owners. On the head of a bed called the Nun's bed, is the rude inscription [q]. Pl.X. fig.8. {marginal = Corby. Pl.X fig.9. / Corby Castle} Corby in Wetheral parish, is now a modern mansion, seated on the brink of a stupendous cliff over-hanging the river Eden, and surrounded by well wooded hills, altogether forming a beautiful scene [r]. It belonged once to Harcla earl of Carlisle, on whose attainder Edward II. granted it to sir Richard de Salkeld, knt. who sold it to the heirs of the Howards of Naworth [s]. In one of the walls is the altar [t] which Mr. Camden describes at Willoford or Burdoswald [u]. {marginal = Wetheral. / Wetheral Priory; St Constantine's Cells} "Wetherhaul, a celle of St. Mary abbay, three miles south-east above Cairluel, on the same side of the river Edon [x]." Wetherel, a Benedictine priory, was given to St. Mary's abbey at York by Ranulph de Meschines earl of Cumberland, t. Rufus or Henry I. valued at £.117. and granted at the dissolution to the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle [y]. The gate with a fine elliptic arch remains. A little farther in the midst of a vast precipice environed with woods are cut with much labour in the live rock three deep unroofed cells, divided by partitions of the same four feet thick, the front and entrance of fine cut stone; in front three windows and a fire-place. The cells, intended for security or retirement, are each 12 feet 8 inches deep, and about 9 feet 6 inches wide; below, before them, from the door to the end is a kind of gallery, 23 feet and an half long, bounded by the front, which overhangs the river Eden, above whose level they are 40 feet. There are marks of bolts and bars 191.c -- Sandford's MS. Hist. of Cumb. Burn, II. 424. 191.d -- Burn, II. 424. 191.e -- Ib. 428. 191.f -- Ib. 414,415. 191.g -- Ib. 449. 191.h -- Ib. 340-343. 191.i -- Tan. 75. 191.k -- Burn, II. 453. 191.l -- Ib. 348-366. 191.m -- Lel. VII. 72. 191.n -- Tan. 77. 191.o -- Burn, II. 366-370. 191.p -- Tan. 75. 191.q -- Burn, II. 429. 431. 191.r -- Ib. 335. Hutchinson, 250. 191.s -- Pennant. 191.t -- Cumb. xvi. p.256. 191.u -- Gord. xliii. p.96. Horsl. xvi. 256. Pennat 72. 191.x -- Lel. VII. 71. 191.y -- Tan. 75. to Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (192) to the windows, and of doors. The wall that forms the gallery founded on a ledge of rocks eight feet below the floor of the cells is ruined a little above their top, and was once joined to them by a roof. They are called Constantine's cells, the priory being dedicated to him, but more commonly the Safeguard, being probably intended as such for the neighbouring monks against the Scots, the door being approachable only by a ladder, and the whole only by a perpendicular ascent of seven feet from a long narrow path. On the same rock a little higher up the river and about 10 or 12 feet from the level of the water is this inscription: MAXIMVS SCRIPSIT LE XXVV COND CAS[ ]CIVS, and a rude figure of a deer. The two lines are a yard assunder: the 2d may mean the Leg. XX. Valens Victrix condidit (or Condate) Cassius or Centurio Cassius, the centurial mark misplaced [z]. {marginal = VIROSIDUM. Warwick. / Warwick; Virosidum} Horsley places VIROSIDUM at Elenboro' or Old Carlisle [a]. The church of Warwick is remarkable for its round east end with round narrow niches on the outside 10 feet 8 inches high and 17 inches wide, reaching almost to the ground, and in two or three a small window. The whole church is built of hewn stone 70 feet long, but formerly reached further west, there being at that end a good round arch filled up. In the grant to St. Mary's abbey it is called a chapel [b]. The manor was held by a farm of the name from the time of Richard I. to the present time, as was that of Aglionby in the same parish by that family from the Conquest to the present time [c]. {marginal = Great and Little Blencowe. / Little Blencow; Great Blencow} Below Greystock on the Peterel lies Geat Blencowe, belonging to an antient family of that name, whose ruined tower is still to be seen at Little Blencowe. Here is a very good grammar-school, founded and endowed 19 Elizabeth by Thomas Burbank, who was born in the town, and had been a schoolmaster [d]. {marginal = Highhead. / High Head Castle} "Hyghhed castel six or seven miles from Cairluel by south on the beck on Ivebek [e]." The inquisitions of the reign of Edward III. call it Pela de Highhead, and on the attainder of Andrew de Harcla it was granted to the Dacres. It was bought by the Richmonds t. Henry VIII. and still belongs to them [f]. {marginal = Hutton hall. / Hutton-in-the-Forest} From Highyate the river runs to Hutton hall the seat of a family of the same name, of whom it was purchased in the reign of James I. by the Fletchers, who, particularly sir George Fletcher, bart. who lived at it, and with whom the baronetage ended, so much improved it by buildings and plantations, that it is now one of the pleasantest seats in the county. The estate is within the Haia de Plumpton, and held of the king by the service of holding the king's stirrup when he mounts his horse in his castle of Carlisle [g]. {marginal = CONGAVATA. Stanwicks. / Stanwix; Congavata} Mr. Horsley fixes CONGAVATA at Stanwicks, on such proofs as cannot be controverted [h]. Here is a plain area of a station and a gentle descent to the south, and the rising for the outbuildings, which the abundance of stones dug up prove to have stood here. Some of the stones answered to the description of an aqueduct. The ruins of the wall are very visible to the brink of the precipice [i]. {marginal = Rose castle. / Rose Castle} "Rose, a castle of the bishops of Cairluel. Bishop Kight made it very fresh [k]." Edward I. lodged in Rose castle during his Scotch expedition; and several of his writs for calling a parliament are dated apud la Rose. From its being embattled by leave of Edward III. it had the name of a castle, and has been the principal mansion-house of the bishops of Carlisle from the first grant of the manor to their see. Bishop Smith added a new tower (as Bishop Bell had done between 1478 and 1496), and by great expence in altering and beautifying made it a very convenient house [l]. It suffered much from the Scots, and was as often repaired, and continued a comfortable habitation till its total demolition in the reign of Charles I. It was burnt in the civil wars by order of col. Heveringham; before which time it consisted of a compleat quadrangle with a fountain in the middle with five, towers besides lesser turrets, and encompassed with a mantle wall with little turrets. The north side contained the constable's tower, the chapel, Bell's tower built by bishop Bell, the bishop's and council-chamber, and a chamber under the latter called Great Paradise, and Strickland's tower, built by bishop Strickland. The east side contained the great dining room, hall and buttery and kitchen: the south side a long gallery leading to the hall and the offices, and the west side Pettinger's tower and offices. Here was another built by bishop Kite. Its ruins were repaired at the Restoration by bishop Sterne, and his successor bishop Rainbow put the house into better condition, and built the chapel. When bishop Rainbow came to the see, no part was habitable except from the chapel south to the end of the old kitchen; all which was supposed to have been built by bishop Kite. Rainbow built the two parlours, chapel, and great staircase. Bishop Sterne had rebuilt the chapel, but bishop Rainbow was obliged to rebuild it. Bishop Fleming wainscoted and floored these and other rooms. Bishop Osbaldiston bullied his executors out of 200£. which he had allowed his lessee of Buley castle c. Westmorland for his interest in the wood sold there, and for damages and springing it again; and cut down wood and timber on the demesne to the amount of many hundred pounds, and made reprisals to the amount of about 350£.; and after this benefit was glad to compound with his successor bishop Lyttelton for 250£. delapidations, which his said successor chose to accept to avoid a long suit. Bishop Lyttelton built a very fine new kitchen, laundry, and brew-house, repaired Strickland tower, and greatly improved the whole house; and besides leaving a minute account in his register, compiled a particular history of it. Notwithstanding the poverty of the see, the bishops lived here antiently in great splendour. In bishop White's rental 1627 the constant houshold was 35 or 36 besides workfolk and strangers [m]. Rhôs signifies in British a moist dale or valley [n]. {marginal = Dalston. / Dalston; Dalston stone circle} In Dalston parish in a field about a mile from the church called Chapel Flat, foundations are dug up as of the hermitage and chapel of St. Wynemius the bishop, mentioned here 1343. A circle of rude stones three feet diameter, and 30 yards in circumference, was here many years ago, and within it to the east four stones as of a kistvaen. Not far from it is a tumulus eight yards diameter at bottom, and two at top, and about three yards high. On opening it were found near the top two freestones, about three 192.z -- G. Archaeol. I. 86. Pennant, 1772, p.61, and plate V. Hutchinson, p.256. Burn, II. 335. 192.a -- P. 109. 478. 481. 192.b -- Pennant, 60. 192.c -- Burn, II. 327-328. 192.d -- G. Burn, II. 373. 384. 192.e -- Lel. VII. 72. 192.f -- Burn, II. 319,320. 192.g -- Esc. 5 Hen. VII. G. Burn, II. 388. 192.h -- P. 105. 192.i -- P. 155. 192.k -- Lel. VII. 72. 192.l -- Buck. G. 192.m -- Burn, II. 313-316. 192.n -- Ib. feet Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (193) {marginal = roman fort, Dalston} feet long, one broad, and six inches thick, which had a sort of circle very rudely cut or marked near the top, but nothing under them. About half a mile south south-west from hence was a small Roman camp about 30 yards diameter, and much about the same distance north north-west another Roman camp of like dimensions. A third about a mile south east much larger. None of these camps are above a mile, and the first not a quarter of the distance from Rose, where Mr. Camden places Congavata, which Mr. Horsley, on much better grounds, fixes at Stanwix. The two smaller camps are now arable land, and have been frequently plowed, but no coins or inscriptions found. The other is on an uncultivated moor, and has never been searched or tried: but small hand mill-stones and other things have been dug up, sufficient to evince them to be Roman [o]. Though Dalston is no market town, it has a very large cross, which seems to have been built at the expence of the neighbouring gentry, as their arms on it shew. The three kites heads, the arms of bishop Kite 1520-1537, refer the erecting of it to his time [p]. {marginal = Shalk beck. / Upper or Lower Green Quarries; roman inscription} About a mile or more from Rose castle westward is Shalk beck, where are large and fair quarries of freestone, whence it is suppposed was taken great part of the stone that built the Roman wall from Carlisle to Bowness. From the appearance of the place it is certain that immense quantities have been carried away from thence, and lately on removing a vast heap of rubbish from before the rock in one part, in order to carry the works further back, was found on the face of the rock this inscription: LEG. II AVG. MILITES PEIV COH III COH IIII. The last line inclosed in a kind of parallel frame of strokes and hatches, which bishop Lyttelton supposed modern, like the other scrawls about the inscription. Perhaps they have been notes for loads or tons of stone hewn or delivered. The whole is on a protuberant eminence of rock, of very difficult access, seven or eight yards above the stream, in an uncultivated desart, and being sheltered from the east wind covers the workmen from weather. It is the 6th Roman inscription on a rock among us: one at Helbeck scar in this county, three at Crawdundalewathe near Kirkby Thor c. Westmorland, and that on Leage cragg near Naworth, which Mr. Horsley found to be utterly defaced [q]. {marginal = CARLISLE. / Carlisle} "The City of Cairluell is in compass scant a mile, and is walled with a right fair strong wall ex lapide quadrato subrufo. In the wall be three gates Bocher or S. Calden or W. and Richard or N. The castle being within the town is in some part as a closer of the whole. The Irishmen call Bale a town, and so peradventure did the old Scots. Thus might be said that Lugubalia soundeth Luel's town. In the cite be two paroch churches, of which the one is in the body of the cathedral church, in the which be canons regulars else be in no cathedral church in England. The other is of St. Cuthbert. There is in the town a chapel of St. Alban, and also two other houses of freres black and grey. In digging to make new buildings in the town often times hath bene and now a late found divers foundations of the old city, as pavements of streets, old arches of doors, coyne, stones squarid, painted pots, money hid in pots so old and muldid that when it was strongly touched it went almost to moulder. The whole site of the town is sore changed, for whereas the streets were the great edifices now be vacant and garden plotts. The cite standeth in the forest of Ynglewood. The body of the cathedral church is of an older building than the choir. In the fields about Cairluel in plowing hath been found divers Cornelines and other stones, well entailed for seals, and in other places of Cumberland hath been found brickes containing the prints of antique works [r]." {marginal = Carlisle Castle; Carlisle Cathedral} CARLISLE is very pleasantly situated; the walls in bad repair, and the walks on them ill kept. The castle, though antient, makes a good appearance at a distance, and commands an extensive view of pleasant meads, insulated by the two branches of the Eden. Richard III. made some additions to the castle, and Henry VIII. built the citadel, an oblong with three bastions on the west side of the town, now neglected. The old portcullis remains in the inner gate of the castle, and they shew the apartments where Mary queen of Scots was lodged after her landing at Workington. It is now deserted, and the garrison withdrawn. The city has three gates, the French, English, and Scotch; the principal street very spacious has a guard house built by Cromwell. The cathedral begun by Walter, a Norman priest, under William Rufus, governor of the city, who founded a monastery here, which Henry I. endowed for Austin canons, and afterwards made a bishopric (the only one of the order in England), is imperfect, the west part being pulled down by Cromwell 1649, to build batteries and a citadel in the market place, so that it has lost near 100 feet of its whole length, being only 219 feet, and the nave used as a parish church only. Part was built in the Saxon style with round arches and massy pillars 15 feet high, and 17 feet and an half in circumference; the rest is ascribed to Edward III. The steeple and tabernacle work by bishop Strickland. The choir [s] by bishop Welton, finished by his successors Appleby and Strickland. It has handsome stalls, supposed by Robert Eglefield founder of Queen's college, Oxford, and the history of St. Cuthbert and St. Austin painted in compartments with couplets at the west end at the back of the stalls much defaced. Bishop Lyttleton contributed largely to wainscot the choir and the sides of the altar, from a design of his nephew Thomas Pitt, esq; now lord Camelford, who also gave a design for a bishop's throne. The door near the bishop's throne was the work of prior Haythwaite about 1480, and the opposite door of prior Senhouse about 1500. The revenues of the priory were valued at £.418. of the bishopric at £.531. Henry VIII. founded here a dean, four prebendaries, 8 minor canons, a subdean, four singing-men, a grammar-master, six choristers and a master, six almsmen, &c. [t] The cloisters and buildings were destroyed in the civil war [u], except the refectory, now the chapter house. Here are monuments for bishops Barrow 1429, Bell 1496, Robinson 1616, Milborn 1623, Fleming 1747, and some ascribed to Appleby, Wil- 193.o -- Burn, II. 323, 324. 193.p -- Ib. II. 325. 193.q -- Archaeol. I. 227. Mr. Smith's MS. letter to R. Gale 1741-2. Burn, II. 324. 193.r -- Lel. VII. 70. 193.s -- Bishop Gibson says that the upper part of the cathedral, a curious piece of workmanship, was built by Henry VIII; mistaking it for the citadel. 193.t -- Tan. 73. 193.u -- Pen. 58. ton, Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (194) {continues last paragraph}[Wil]ton, and Strickland 1419. Here were an house of Grey and another of Black friars [x]. and an hospital of St. Nicholas, of royal foundation, for 13 lepers before 22 Edward I. [y] and here is now another mean parish church, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, with an altar-monment of the Dentons of the 15th century. {marginal = placename, Carlisle} The first half of Caerleol signifying a city, the other may have some resemblance to Luguvallium, softened into Luol, Leol, and then into Leel, mistaken for the French termination L'isle [z]. Dr. Gale [a] derives it from Lle an army, and Gual the wall, as Lugdunum from Llu and dun a hill., for Tacitus [b] says that the Lyonnois call themselves a Roman colony and part of the army. Lugo Augusti in Mela is Turris Agusti [c]. As to Ptolemy's Λενκοπιξια it is Whithern in Galloway. The Saxon Chronicle [d] says that Rufus, after placing a garrison here, returned into the south, and sent hither [myccle maenige Eyrhrcen folces mid thisane & othre thaerto thunigene that land to thane - Anglo Saxon = sent many men and their women and livestock there to settle and till the land?], which bishop Gibson in his edition of the Chonicle, had translated a great multitude of English, but in his Camden proposes reading [Lyrhrcen - Anglo Saxon], q.d. Husbandmen, as better agreeing with the tillage there mentioned, and all the records ascribe the first improvement of the country to this colony. {marginal = Pl.XI. fig.1.; Pl.XI. fig.2.} The first inscription given here by Mr. Camden is now built up in the back wall of the house at Drawdikes, and was originally brought from Stanwicks. Horsley's copy [e] is most correct, and reads in the 3d line Augustiani a name frequent in Gruter, and in the 5th Aelia Ammilla Lusima. It appears to be of the lower empire, though k for l is common on inscriptions older than any in Britain [f]. The armed horseman is not now on the stone. The other fine and beautiful inscription is in the garden at Naworth [g]. The copper crescent P.XI. fig.3, 4. was found 1728 in digging a cellar over against the Bush inn in this city, and communicated to Mr. Horsley by Mr. Richard Goodman of that place, who supposed it an ornament or symbol of Isis or a fibula. Mr. Gale explained it to be a part of horse trappings hung at the horse's breast by the ring, and a pendant fixed to it from the hole in the shank [h]. Andrew de Harcla created earl of Carlisle 15 Edward II. being intoxicated with his sudden elevation, and, out of pique to the Spensers, caballing with the Scots, was executed next year [i]. The title was revived 1362 in the person of Charles great grandson of lord William Howard 3d son of Thomas duke of Norfolk, who by marriage with the heiress of Dacre became possessed of Naworth castle [k]. He died 1686, and was buried at Graystock. He was succeeded by his son Edward, buried at Wickham; he 1692 by his son Charles; he 1738 by his son Henry, and he by his only son Frederick 5th and present earl. The two last earls are buried at Castle Howard in Yorkshire, where Charles the 3d built a noble house and mausoleum, of which see before, p.84. Carlisle was burned by the Scots in the reign of Henry III. and twice by accident in that of Edward I. A parliament met here 31 Edward I. and what great things they did in opposing the papal extortions, furthering the expedition against Scotland, concluding the marriage of prince Edward with a daughter of France, and other public transactions, our historians abundantly inform us. Edward I. continued here from January to June, when he set out on his expedition against Scotland, and died at Burgh on Sands. Robert Bruce burned this city 9 Edward II. and its earl Andrew de Harcla joining with Bruce was arrested in the castle, and hanged here. It was miserably harrassed in the civil wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, and in vain beseiged by the insurgents under Aske in the reign of Henry VIII. That king is said to have built the citadel, which was repaired by Elizabeth. In 1597 here died of the plague 1196 persons. The city was surrendered to Lesley and the parliament forces after a severe seige, during which 3s. pieces were coined out of the plate of the inhabitants. In 1745 its weak garrison and defenceless state occasioned it to be surrendered to the rebels, by whom it was soon after given up. Great and ample privileges have been granted to this city by our several princes. It is now governed by a mayor, eleven aldermen, two bailiffs, two coroners, 24 common-council, and a recorder. It sends two members to parliament, and the assizes for the county are held here by statute 14 Henry VI. The see was founded by Henry I. a.r. 23. as the priory by him soon after his accession. Philip and Mary granted to the bishop the advowson and collation of all the four prebends. Here are two parish churches, St. Cuthbert's and St. Mary's. When the steeple of the former was rebuilt in the reign of Elizabeth there was found a large parcel of small silver coins to the quantity of near a Winchester bushel, called St. Cuthbert's pence, and supposed to have been an oblation at the first building. The latter church is the cathedral. Henry endowed the church with the tithes of all lands broken up for cultivation within Inglewood forest, by giving it an ivory horn. This horn, as it is called, is two teeth of an elephant, now remaining in the cathedral [l]. Bishop Halton petitioned Edward II. for a piece of ground to build an house for himself and successors within the precincts of the castle and within the city walls. The Pope, on the king's application, appropriated the church of Horncastle c. Lincoln, to the bishop's own use, for a retreat and provision against the Scotch inroads [m]. {marginal = Carlisle, Bishop of} Among the 51 bishops of the see, two are particularly intitled to a place in this work for their distinguished application and eminent proficiency in the subjects of it. Bishop Nicolson, son of Joseph Nicolson, rector of Plumland in this county, whose various writings are enumerated in Dr. Burn's History of Cumberland [n], for which he left such ample materials in three volumes folio, and one in octavo; the former bequeathed by him to the dean and chapter, the latter to his nephew Joseph Nicolson of Hawksdale, esq; Dr. Burn's coadjutor in his publication: Bishop Lyttelton, whose attention to the interests of antiquarian science while he was president of the Society of Antiquities found so faith- 194.x -- Tan. 78. 194.y -- Ib. 77. 194.z -- Horsl. 409. 194.a -- Anton. p.37. MS. n. 194.b -- Hist. I. 194.c -- See Simler's Antoninus, p.281. 194.d -- P. 108. 194.e -- Cumb. xxxix. 194.f -- Horsl. 265. 194.g -- Cumb. xxiv. Horsl. 258. Dr. Gale saw it at general Stanwic's. MS. Ant. 194.h -- MS. letter among Mr. Allan's. 194.i -- Dugd. Bar. II. 97. 194.k -- Dugd. Bar. II. 281. 194.l -- Archaeol. I. 168. 194.m -- Burn, II. 228-310. 194.n -- Burn, I. 120. ful Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (195) [faith]ful a panegyrist in his intimate friend and successor. It is remarkable that Orton in Cumberland gave birth to Dr. Nicolson, and Orton in Westmorland to Dr. Burn. {marginal = Rockcliff. / Rockcliffe} "Rockclif, a pretty pile or castle of the lord Daker's over Edon on the farther ripe, about three miles from Caerluell [o]," It was sold by the duke of Norfolk 1682, and now belongs to Mr. Strong of Peterborough [p]. {marginal = Stanwick. / Stanwix} Over the river Eden is Stanwick, where Horsley [q] places Congavata, on incontestible evidence. The Roman wall is very visible here [12]. The ditch distinct on the west of the village between it and the Eden, seems to have been Severus's, whose wall forms the north rampart of the station. The ruins of the wall are visible on the brink of the precipice. Henry I. gave the appropriation of the church to the church of Carlisle [13]. {marginal = Drawdikes. / Drawdykes Castle; roman inscription} At Drawdikes, a seat of the Aglionbys, near the former inscription is another [r], {marginal = Pl.XI. fig.5.} COH IIII PR. POS. [ ]I VK. VI TAKIS Bishop Gibson gives the following also here: I. O. M. ALA AVG. O .. B. VRI APPIA IVL. PVB PS. T. TB. CETBERI. .. which Dr. Gale [s] corrects Jovi Optimo Maximo Ala Augusta ob virtutem appellata Julius Publius & Tiberius Claud. Tiberii filius. {marginal = Pl.XI. fig.6.} as in Horsley's Cumb. No LVI. [t] But Mr. Horsley could hear of no such altar, and inclined to suspect it to have been mistaken for one of those yet remaining at Drumburgh. He gives a 4th (XL.) which he thinks belongs here, and two more XLI. XLII. [u] The inscription in Camden is also now at Drawdikes, but the horseman armed with a lance which he mentions is gone, and never seems to have been part of this. {marginal = Netherby. / roman fort, Netherby; roman inscription} "Netherby is seven miles north from Cairluel and Eske river runneth on the north side of it. There hath been mervelus buildings as appeer by ruinus walls, and men alive have seen rynges and staples in the walls, as it had been stayes or holds for ships. On the one side of it is the batable ground, so that it is a limes Angliae & Scotiae. The ruins be now three miles at least from the flowing water of Sulway sands. The grass groweth now on the ruins of the walls [x]." The antient border house at Kirk Andrews, opposite to Netherby, is a square tower of three stones, the windows small, the door of iron: the cattle lodged below, the owners above [y]. {marginal = Pl.XII.} There is a gradual descent from the principal and oblong fort on the north-west angle towards the Esk, in which several streets are very visible. In one running north and south, on the west side towards the river, by digging among the ruins for stones, were discovered two rooms parallel to the street. The southernmost is plainly a cold bath, marked F in the plan, from the cement and large thin flags laid at the bottom, and an earthen pipe at the north-west corner descending from a small watercourse that runs under the other room, and a partition wall, and so below the door into the street, where may have been a common sewer. The outward room has an entrance from the street as above: the door cheeks are two large flags about seven feet high, and 20 inches broad, with holes for fastening the door, which opened into the street. In this room, marked G in the plan, was found in the beginning of October, 1732, an altar with this inscription, removed into the castle. DEAE SANCTAE FORTVNAE CONSERVATRICI MARCVS. AVREL. SALVIVS TRIBVN US COH. I. AEL HISPANORVM ∞ EQ. V. S. L. M. They continued to work, and Mr. Goodman sent the above account to Mr. Gale Nov. 9, 1732. Mr. Cay, in a letter to Mr. Gale, Dec. 12, 1732, observes that "inscriptions of the Coh. I. Hisp. have been found at Airdoch and Elenborough, but in only one of them it is styled equestris, and the commander praefectus. In the Notitia is the tribunus cohortis I. Hisp. Axeloduno, which is now fixed at no great distance from Netherby or Elenborough. We have no former instances of Aelia given to this cohort. Horsley, p.95, conjectures that it might be part of the Ala Herculea, but had he seen this inscription he would have thought otherwise. He observes, p.95, that the Notitia does not often give Cohors Equitumbut, as in many places, it seems to point out the officer's residence. I know not whther we are always to suppose the whole body under his command was in the same place. I am the more surprized we have not met with trib. coh. Equit. Among the stations per lineam valli there is none said to be commanded by a praefectus alae, which appears to have been much larger than some of those where tribunes of cohorts are placed. I therefore suppose that an equestrian cohort consisted of two alae, though it might not be common to mention them as cohorts, and perhaps the Ala I Herculea and Ala Vettonum might compose this cohort. I cannot think it improbable that some of the forces that are not mentioned in the Notitia, but in inscriptions, might be removed to the borders of Wales, where that book seems deficient. I do not determine whether Scot. xxxi. and Cumb. lxii. lxiii. relate to this equestrian cohort." Mr. Gale replies, Dec. 28, that "Mr. Horsley's reasons about the Ala Herculea and Coh. I. Hisp. are not conclusive. The cohort was frequently moved, and if the letters EQ. are not on the Ardoch and two of the Elenborough inscriptions, they are on a third at the last place. A cohort of the Ala Herculea might be at Netherby within distance of Old Carlisle, or the Ala itself might have been quartered more north; for the Netherby inscription appears of older and better letter than those at Elenborough. All these circumstances make it doubtful whether this cohort was part of that Ala. By its name and country it probably came over with Hadrian, and continued here till the Romans quitted the island, frequently changing its place. It might have come with the Legio VI. Victrix, and been part of one of its Alae, as that seems to have been always employed in the north and in headquarters at York. If the legionary Alae, consisting of several cohorts of foreign auxiliaries, were equal in 195.o -- Lel.VII. 69. 195.p -- Burn, II. 223. 195.q -- P. 108. 155. See hereafter, p.227 195.12 -- G. 195.13 -- G. 195.r -- Horsl. 265. Cumb. xxxviii. 195.s -- Ant. 38. MS. n. 195.t -- Horsl. 266. 195.u -- Burn, II. 452. 195.x -- Lel. VII. 69. 195.y -- Pennant, 68. number Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (196) number of men to the Legion, it is probable both the Alae contained 10 cohorts. The Ala Herculea seems to have been the Ala of a Legion, and consequently composed of several cohorts, and perhaps was the same as the Ala Gordiana, and may have changed its name under Maximian, of whom Victor says that he gave his new name to the troops. The Ala Gordiana also lay at Old Carlisle, as appears from inscriptions found there. "Legio VI. Victrix was in Britain when the Notitia was written, as were all these Alae. It is not improbable that the Ala I. Herculea, and the Ala Sabiniana, the one called from Maximianus Herculeus, the other from Adrian's wife Sabina, or Gordian's wife Sabinia, were the wings properly belonging to it. "When the Notitia was written, the Legio II. Aug. was withdrawn from Caerleon to Richborough, and its auxliaries probably garrisoned the east coast. The principal stress of defence about and before the time when the Romans quitted the island was ad lineam valli and the littus Saxonicum. I account for the want of inscriptions in these east and south stations, when they abound so much in the north, from the long residence and quiet of the Romans in the north. The Notitia gives the state of the Roman government and forces in Britain, not as they really were at the end of Theodosius II's reign A.D. 445, but 401 or 2, when the aforesaid legions were still in Britain, for it is evident they had been recalled before that time. When the Legio II. Aug. left us is not so plain, but I think we may fix the departure of the other to Stilico's drawing off all the forces of the empire to his aid, as described by Claudian: Venit ab extremis, &c. So that the Notitia seems to copy from an account taken at a time when the Romans had a flourishing civil power and a good army residing here, and not at the end of the reign of Theodosius II, when every thing was in confusion. "Both the commanders of legions and alae were styled Praefecti, and the latter was more profitable as well as more honourable, and sooner attained by successive rising. But the commander of the cohort is always styled Tribunus in the Notita, though sometimes in inscriptions Praefectus, a term of greater dignity, and a compliment to the officer. Cohors was properly a company of foot, Turma a troop of horse, and the commander of the latter a Decurio, and frequently Praefectus like the commander of a cohort. Vegetius, a late writer, who lived but a little before the Notitia, says the first cohort of a legion was styled Milliaria, and consisted of 1103 foot soldiers, and 132 horse, and others had only 555 foot, and 66 horse. The commander of the first cohort was styled Tribunus, the others tribuni or praepositi, as the emperor pleased. I never met with a praepositus cohortis in any other book or inscription; perhaps it might be a modern distinction. However, in imitation of the first legionary cohort, the first auxiliary one might consist of above 1000 men, and the rest of more than 500 (the 4th and 7th it is said were above 600), whence they are called Quingenaria, as the first was Milliaria, the rest by the note ∞ on this inscription, whose last words are to be read milliariae equitatae, not equestris or equitum, as in Pliny and other polite writers. Equitata is the camp term and used by Hyginus, who wrote expressly on that subject, and in the military style. "That this cohors I. Hisp. equitatae was sent by Adrian into Britain, appears from an inscription in Reinesius, Cl. 6 cxxiix, and in Gudius." Sir J. Clerk's description of the Netherby bath in a letter to Mr. Gale, Sept. 23, 1734: "This edifice consists of two rooms, which, I believe, have always been under ground; for, at this time, there are marks of steps to go down to them. The door is finished by three large stones, one at top and two on the sides, each about six feet long, with marks of bolts and hinges. Each room is about nine or ten feet square, divided from each other by a thin partition of stone, and both under the same arched roof, which the workmen broke down. The outermost served for a little temple of Fortune, and in it the altar was found with heaps of heads of different animals, particularly oxen and sheep. The inner room was a bath, and, in my opinion, rather for bathing vessels to stand in than to be filled with water: for though there is a certain cement, composed of lime and beaten bricks, which covers both the floors and walls, and is indeed very hard; I have no notion it could ever hold water. The floors of both rooms are covered with large flat stones, and under them is an aqueduct or large empty space or canal, reaching from one end of the building to the other. These floors are covered with the cement about an inch and an half thick, which, I suppose, was because the stones were too cold to stand on. I believe it might be worth our while to imitate this cement in floors underground; for it seems the beaten brick, which is not very small, served to dry up the moisture of the lime and made it bind immediately. "The Spanish horse of the inscription could not be the northern exploratores, consequently this place could not be the Castra Exploratorum, as Mr. Horsley took it to be. I make no doubt but the true Castra Exploratorum was at Midleby and Burnswark hill in Scotland, 10 mils from Netherby; for there are three Roman camps to defend these grounds, and from the top of the hill a prospect of at least 40 miles round, as I noticed to you once before, and as was likewise observed by Mr. Gordon. I believe if poor Mr. Horsley had lived to see this altar, he would have changed his opinion about the place. I don't know why it might not have been Luguvallium rather than Carlisle. If the etymology could be admitted to be Longa Vallis, it would exactly fit the country about Netherby, which is part of what we call Eskdale or Escae Vallis. I own the next station of the Itinerary would create some difficulty, but that would be only in the distances, about which we can have but little certainty. "From the heads of animals found in the Fanum Fortunae, we may guess the priest had picked them before they came there, otherwise the place had been a meer slaughter-house. The altar, no doubt, served for libations, or, according to the priest-craft of those times, for a small part of the viscera, while those holy men feasted on the rest themselves. "I observed on the pavement scattered about several fragments of fine earthen pots adorned with figures. These, no doubt, have served for oils, or paterae and prefericula. "About 30 ells in a strait line from this fabric is a spring, which, no doubt, you noticed. This has supplied the bath, and issued by the aqueduct. I shall only add, that Netherby is much the same kind of station as Midleby: for there are considerable vestiges of stone buildings in both. I believe if Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (197) {continues last paragraph}if lord Preston was spoken to he would order some of these ruins to be digged up. I myself have bespoke some workmen at Midleby." Another letter of sir J. Clerk's relating to the same, Oct. 29, 1734: "Sir, I cannot but be satisfied with your reading of the inscription on the Netherby altar, but I still state to you my reasons for what I sent you: I know very well that the first cohort of a legion used sometimes to be called Mliliaria, for so Rosinus and Vegetius, and before them Modestus had taught me. I know it consisted both of horse and foot, but I thought it a tautology to add after Ima cohors, the letters ∞ EQ. wherefore I imagined it was intended to signify that the whole cohort consisted of horse in number 1000, and that there belonged to the cohort 1000 horse, who were quartered at Netherby. But what was of greater weight with me, I believed that in the latter times of the Roman empire there were cohorts intirely of horse." The inscriptions found here both make mention of Marcus Aurelius Salvius, tribune of the cohors I. AElia Hispanorum milliaria equitata. The first moreover points out the particular emperor M. Aurelius Severus Alexander, in whose reign it was engraved, and almost directs us to the very year also, which must have been either the 226th or 229th of the Christian aera, for in those years was that emperor consul. The title of Dominus is here also given to this emperor, notwithstanding his averseness to it mentioned by his historian Lampridius [y]. This stone served to cover a drain of no considerable age, and is about five feet seven inches by four feet four inches and an half. The altar was found in a room belonging to a large building, not long before discovered, but since pulled to pieces for the sake of the materials, where there appears to have been an hypocaust, and possibly the Basilica mentioned in the other inscription was thereabouts. Basilica here signifies a portico or colonnade for exercising horses or a riding school; Basilica equestris exercitatoria. The cohors I. Hispanorum is mentioned in many inscriptions found hereabouts, but only on these two called AElia. The monogram stands for milliaria, and the term equitata signifies that the auxiliaries exercised on foot, some of the regiments being lined or flanked with horse, and therfore called equitatae, not, as Mr. Horsley and others understood it, promoted from the foot service to the horse. This inscription gives a new legate and propraetor Valerianus, as the copper inscription before-mentioned in Yorkshire [z] affords another, and that a very remarkable personage under the emperor Hadrian and one much known in the Roman history. IMP CAES M AVRELIO SEVERO ALEXANDRO PIO FEL AVG PONT MAXIMO TRIB POT COS PP COH I AEL HISPANORVM ∞ EQ DEVOTA NVMINI MAIESTATIQVE EIVS BASELICAM EQVESTREM EXERCITATORIAM IAMPRIDEM A SOLO COEPTAM AEDIFICAVIT CONSVMMAVTIQVE SVB CVRA MARI VALERIANI LEG AVG PR PR INSTANTE M AVRELIO SALVIO TRIB COH IMP D N SEVERO ALEXANDRO PIO FEL AVG COS Imperatori Caesari Marco Aurelio Severo Alexandro Pio Felici Augusto Pontifici Maximo Tribunitiae Potestatis Consuli Patri Patrie Cohors Prima AElia Hispanorum Miliaria Equitatata devota Numini Majestatique ejus Basilicam Equestrem exercitatoriam Jampridem a solo coeptam AEdificavit consummavitque Sub cura Marii Valeriani Legati Augusti Propraetoris instante Marco Aurelio Salvio Tribuno Cohortis Imperatore Domino Nostro Severo Alexandro Pio Felici Auguste Consule [a]. At Netherby has been found every thing that denotes it a fixed Roman station. A fine hypocaust was discovered 1745, contiguous to the old bath opened 1732, and the present shrubbery was the burial place, in which some gardeners found the statue in Pl.XII. The hypocaust was supported by 54 pillars of solid stone, marked in the plane E E E, 36 of which were covered with flags and cement as shown at I. The communication between the two divisions of this hypocaust was maintained by three hollow tiles or pipes through the wall marked D D D. West of these was another hypocaust supported by 20 pillars of square tiles laid on each other with a little cement between marked B B, and west of these were four pillars of similar construction. Through the room B B passed a conduit or air pipe marked C, as did another through an adjoining room H H, full of tiles both hollow and plain. The antiquities discovered here, with others from different parts of the county, collected and arranged by sir Richard Graham, bart. grandfather of the late lord viscount Preston [14], are preserved in the greenhouse [b]. The inscription given by Mr. Camden is missing, probably lost when part of the house was taken down, as are the two in the additions, which do not seem very faithfully copied. IMP. COMM. COS. ET DEO MARTI BELATVCADRO RO. VR. RP. CAII ORVSII. M. {marginal = P.XI. fig.7, 8, 9.} The conclusion of the last may be Gallorum V.S.L.L.M. and it may be a fragment Deo Belatucadro. Horsley found only one inscription here to the god Mogon [c], and some sculpture [d]. Mr. Pennant saw here that about the Basilica, and the altar to Fortune. An altar three feet high, inscribed: Deo sancto Cocidio Paternus Maternus Tribunus Coh. I. Nervane ex evocato palatino V.S.L.M. probably to a local deity as on that at Scaleby [e], The altar to Astarte found at Corbridge with the Greek inscription, which it was reserved for Mr. Tyrwhitt to explain most happily [f]. A small altar DEO VETERI SANCTO --- V.S.L.M. A fragment DEO BELATUCA. The inscription found at Cambeck [g], a figure of Nehalennia, a groupe of Deae Matres, another of three hooded figures like Genii, some delicate bronze figures, terms and rondeaux 197.y -- c. 3. 197.z -- P. 28. 197.a -- Dr. Taylor in Phil. Trans. vol.LIII. p.134. Mr. Smith in Gent. Mag. X. 1740, p.171. and XX. 1750, p.27. Pennant, p.70. 197.14 -- G. 197.b -- Penn. 70. 197.c -- Cumb. xlvii. Gord. xliv. p.98, 197.d -- Cumb. xlviii. xlix. l. p.71. Pennant, 272. 197.e -- Horsley Cumb. xvii. 197.f -- Archaeol. II. 98. III. 324. 197.g -- Horsl. Cumb. xxxiv. p.262. with Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (198) {continues last paragraph}with reliefs [h], urns, copper vessels, trinkets, and snakestones [i], the relief of the Victory VIC. AVG. and the Capricorn and Pegasus [k]. {marginal = Castra Exploratorum} Horsley puts here CASTRA EXPLORATORUM [l]. The rev. Mr. Graham's house stands on the site of the station, on a rising ground washed by the Esk; and the country round him is a creation of his own. From a barren wild it became as rich as the rest which environed it. By the irruption of Solway moss, 1769, a tract worth £.400. a year was reduced to a bog. This estate passed from the Stutevilles to the Wakes, and was granted as debateable land by James I. to Francis Clifford, earl of Cumberland, who sold it to Nicholas Graham, master of the horse to the duke of Buckingham, and of the prince's party in his Spanish journey. He was left for dead at the battle of Edgehill, but survived to 1653. His grandson George was created by Charles II. viscount Preston in the kingdom of Scotland, and being convicted of treason for attempting to escape to James II. in France, was pardoned, and died 1695 at Nunnington, his estate in Yorkshire, where he was succeeded by his grandson Charles; who dying without issue 1739, was succeeded by his two aunts, coheirs of William. Catherine surviving was married to William lord Widdrington, and dying 1757 without issue, devised the estate to the rev. Robert Graham, M.A. second son of her uncle William Graham, dean of Carlisle and of Wells, owner 1775 of this vast tract of country, and rector of the two churches of Asthurst and Kirkandrews upon Esk [m]. He died, and was succeeded by his son sir James Graham. A writer in the Gent. Mag. LV. 844. observes that by draining, manuring, and planting, this worthy gentleman improved his estate in 16 years from £.2000. per annum, to £.10,000. and even £.13,000 per annum, so that if his son pursues his plan it will amount to £.20,000 per annum clear. He first drained and improved 1000 acres, then erected villages of eight or ten houses, with a number of acres to each, and let them to his industrious married neighbours rent free for one or two years or more till they could pay, besides erecting churches and inns, and a very handsome commodious house for himself, where the most liberal hospitality presided. {marginal = Esk. r. / Esk, River} "Eske defluit in Eskam at Letheldale." {marginal = Lidel. / Liddel Strength} "Lithel was a moted place of a gentleman called Sir Walter Seleby, the which was killed there, and the place destroyed in king Edward III's time, when the Scotts went to Durham [n]." Liddel's Strength, or the Mote, a strong entrenchment, with a double ditch two miles south-west (sic) of Netherby, small, or rather circular, on a steep and lofty clay cliff above the river Liddel, commanding a vast extent of view, has at one end a very high mount, in the middle the foundation of a square building, perhaps the praetorium. It is defended by a sort of half moon, with a vast foss and dike [o]. It was stormed by David II. king of Scotland. Sir Walter would have compounded for his ransom, but the Conqueror, after causing his two sons to be strangled before his face, ordered his head to be struck off [p]. {marginal = Border service. / Border Service; Lords Warden of the Marches; Border Laws} "The Border service against the Scots as distinct from the military service throughout the kingdom is as antient as the distribution of the several seignories and manors among the Norman adventurers by William the Conqueror, or his grantee Ranulph de Meschines. And the tenants of the several manors were obliged, on firing of beacons, or other warning, to attend their lord in the service of the borders at their own expence, which attendance might be prolonged to 40 days. According to the value of their respective tenures, some were obliged to serve on horseback, and others on foot, with the proper accoutrements. Hence there were nag tenements and foot tenements, the owners whereof were obliged to furnish their stipulated number respectively, on pain of forfeiting the estate to the lord. Within the manor of Bew castle they seem to have been all nag tenements; for in the reservation of a heriot there is a reservation for the riding horse kept by the tenant for the lord's service according to antient custom." "But the regulation of the borders by distinct laws under the rule of lords wardens of the marches seems to have commenced in the reign of Edward I. when he affected the sovereignty of Scotland. Hostilities then became inveterate. The Scots ill brooked a claim frivolous in itself, and supported the violence. Happy indeed had it been for both kingdoms if Edward, bad as his cause was, had finally prevailed. It would have spared much blood, treasure, misery, and desolation, which ensued, and, as experience has at length instructed, instead of two jealous, wrangling, contentious neighbours, distiguished by no natural boundary, would have made us many ages sooner one grreat, opulent, and flourishing kingdom." "The first lord warden of the marches of whom we have any authentic account was Robert de Clifford, lord of Westmoreland, and hereditary sheriff of the same, who was made the king's captain and keeper of the Marches in the north towards Scotland, 1296, being then about 23 years of age. The laws of the march or border laws 1246, given by bishop Nicolson [q], are an evident forgery. The power of the lord warden was varied as according to circumstances, but was in general very great. He was to punish all offences against the truces between England and Scotland, take cognizance of all hostile acts, hold warden courts and sessions in the West Marches, as well within liberties as without, levy fines for breaches of the truce, inquire after all who should practice with the enemey, hear, discuss, and determine all plaints, pleas, and debates, according to the law and custom of the parts of the Marches and dominions aforesaid, and at the cost of the subjects set and appoint watchmen to give notice against the incursions of the Scots, muster all fencible men between the age of 16 and 60 for the defence of Carlisle and Berwick, and agree to abstinences of war between both nations for weeks or months. He had under him two deputies, or substitutes, two warden serjeants, and other officers. His appointment was 600 marks per ann. for himself, and his two deputies, i.e. for them £.10. per ann. and the warden serjeants each 40s. per ann. [r] He had a council, who were to enquire 198.h -- Ib. pl.vi. and iii. Pennant's Voyage to the Hebrides, p.73. Pl.vi. and P.xviii. of the Tour of 1769. 198.i -- Ib. pl.viii. p.74. His first is Horsley's l. his second Horsley's xlix. 198.k -- Horsl. 260. Cumb. xxxii. 198.l -- P. 409. 198.m -- Burn, II. 464-9. 198.n -- Lel. VII 69. 198.o -- Q. if Stothara at Isurium be like this. See p.60. 198.p -- Burn, II. 471. Pennant, 74. 198.q -- Border laws, p.1. 198.r -- Q. Elizabeth's commission to Herny lord Scroope of Bolton, a.r.5. into Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (199) {continues last paragraph}into murders, maimings, fireraising, violent thefts, deadly feuds, cutting down trees, sowing corn in the opposite realm, depasturing cattle, hunting in the opposite realm, following stolen goods into the opposite realm, pursuit of hot trod [s] with hound and horn, hue and cry, reception of fugitives, loiterers, safe conduct, observance of truce, fouling and swearing of bills, baughling and reproving, perjury, over-swearing, offender rescuing himself, retaliation, &c. These several articles of the border laws, together with the several terms of procedure in the courts, may be seen at large in the introduction to Dr. Burns's history of Westmoreland, c.2, 3. and the state of the borders from the reign of Edward I. to that of James I. c. 4-9. What kind of achievements were performed in this peculiar kind of warfare may be learnt from the account of a forray from July 2d to November 17, 1544, wherein 192 towns, towers, stedes, barnekyns [t], parish churches, bastel houses [u], were cast down or burned. 403 Scots slain. 816 prisoners taken. 10386 nolt or horned cattle taken. 12492 sheep. 1296 nags and geldings. 200 goats. 890 bolls of corn. Insight (i.e. household furniture) not reckoned. In the next year's forray by the earl of Hertford between the 8th and 23d of September; Monasteries and friar houses burnt and destroyed 7 Castles, towers, and piles, 16 Market towns, 5 Villages, 243 Milns, 13 Hospitals, 3 [q] The order of the watches on the West marshes made by lord Wharton 6 Edward VI. in Burn, I. lxxxiv. will shew the different stations where such watches were disposed from October to March. During the reign of Charles I. the borders were little attended to. Several acts of parliament passed after the Restoration for assessing the county of Cumberland and Northumberland, the former at not above £.200. the latter at not above £.500. a year for the safeguard of their inhabitants against the Moss troopers by the justices of the peace, who were to raise 30 men in Northumberland, and 12 in Cumberland, under a commander to apprehend such malefactors [x]. The accession of James I. to the crown of England, and both kingdoms thus devolving on one sovereign, was an event fruitful of blessing to each nation. The borders, which for many ages had been almost a constant scene of rapine and desolation, enjoyed a quiet and order which they had never before known. The king, in pursuance of his favourite purpose of extinguishing all memory of past hostilities between his kingdoms, and, if possible, of the places that had been the principal scenes of their hostilities, prohibited the name of borders any longer to be used, substituting in its stead that of middle marches. He ordered all the places of strength in these parts to be demolished except the habitations of nobles and barons, and broke the garrisons of Berwick and Carlisle. Natural prejudices and a mutual resentment owing to a series of wars between the two kingdoms carried on for centuries still however subsisted. From the same source arose frequent disputes and feuds upon the marches, which, by the attention of the sovereign, were soon easily composed. But it required almost 100 years, though England and Scotland were governed all the time by a succession of the same princes, to wear off the jealousies and prepossessions of the formerly hostile nations, and to work such a change in their tempers and views as to admit of an incorporating and effectual union[y]. {marginal = Act of Union 1707} From the Union of 5 Anne hostilities have, by degrees, subsided; and as the then generation, which had been brought up in rapine and misrule, died away, their posterity, on both sides, have become humanized, the arts of peace and civil policy have been cultivated, and every man lives safe in his own possessions; felonies and other criminal offences are as seldom committed in these parts as in most other places of the united kingdoms; and their country, from having been the outskirt and litigated boundary of both kingdoms, is now become the centre of his Majesty's British dominions! Nevertheless the old wounds have left some scars behind. Much common and waste ground remains, which will require a length of time to cultivate and improve. The chuches near the Borders are many of them in a ruinous condition, and very meanly endowed. In many of the parishes there is not so much as an house for the incumbent to live in, and in some parishes no church. And some defects there are in the civil state, which nothing but the legislature can supply. Whilst the laws of the marche subsisted, criminal offences were speadily redressed by the power of the lords wardens or their deputies; and after the abolition of the laws of marche, the said offences were redressed by special commissioners appointed for the Borders, and matters of property of any considerable consequence were commonly determined at the court at York for the northern parts. The judges in their circuit came only once in the year, and sometimes much seldomer. They still come only once in the year to the bordering counties, which causes determinations of civil rights to be dilatory, and confines criminals (or perhaps innocent persons) in prison sometimes near 12 months before they can come to their trial [z]." {marginal = Debateable ground. / Debatable Land} The Debateable ground was a tract of land claimed by both kingdoms, which was the occasion of infinite troubles and vexations. The boundary of it in an old roll is thus described: "Beginning at the foot of the White Scyrke running into the sea, and so up the said water of Scyrke till it come to a place called Pyngilburne foot running into the said water of Scyrke and up the Pyngilburne till it come to Pyngilburne Know, from thence to the Righeads, from the Righeads to the Monke Rilande Burne, and from thence down to Har- 199.s -- Hot trod was a pursuit flagrante delicto, with red hand, as the Scots term it, by dogs called slough dogs, from their pursuing offenders called Moss troopers through the sloughs, mosses, and bogs, that were not passable but by those that were acquainted with the various and intricate byepaths and turnings. They were commonly named blood hounds, and were kept in use till within the memory of many of our forefathers. By a warrant 2 James I. it appears that nine of these dogs were provided and kept by the charge of the inhabitants of the different parishes. Burn, I. cxxx. 199.t -- The outer ward of a castle, containing the barns, stables, &c. 199.u -- supposed monasteries or hospitals. 199.x -- Haine's State Papers, p.51-54. 199.y -- Ridpath's Hist. of the Borders, p.706, in which may be seen an excellent detail of the transactions on the borders from the Conquest to the Union. 199.z -- Burn, cxxxiii. cxxxiv. "venburne Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (200) {continues last paragraph}"[Har]venburne till it fall in Eske and through Eske to the foot of Terras, and go up Terras to the foot of Reygill and up the Reygill to the Tophous and so to the standing stone and to the Mearburne head, and down Mearburne to it fall in Lyddal at the Rutterford, and down Lyddal to it fall in Eske and down Eske to it fall into the sea." It was in length eight computed miles of the country and in breadth four miles. The subjects of both kingdoms commonly depastured their cattle on it in the day time, but were to remove them before the sunset, on the peril that should ensue [a]. {marginal = Beaucastle. / Bew Castle} "Bowecastle longing to the king, 10 mile east from Carluel on Kirkebek. Near about it be found Briton brikes with entayled work and portraitures in the old foundations [b]." {marginal = APIATORIUM. / Apiatorum; roman inscription} Here was probably the Roman station APIATORIUM [c] mentioned in an inscription found in Northumberland and now in the library at Durham, Pl.VII. fig.8. the Maiden way leading to it [d]. The inscription which Mr. Camden saw in the church seems to be at Naworth [e]. There is another serving also as a head-stone to a grave, at the bottom of which it was found. See Pl.XI. fig.10. ... CAES TA ... ... ... ... ... G II AVG ET XXV ... ... II CNC IR ... ... V ... PR PR Perhaps, Imp. Caes. Trajan. Hadriano Aug. Leg. II. Aug. et XX V. V. Sub Licinio Prisco Leg. Aug. Pr. Pr. or the last two lines, Ob. Vic. No. Pr. Lic. ML. Aug. PR. PR. erected by the Legio 2da Aug. in honour of Adrian, whose wall while building they might cover [f]. Mr. Horsley was told of another, which had the word Templum distinct, but was broken and lost [g]. Both the church and castle are surrounded by a dike and foss. The place has its name from Bueth its owner at the Conquest. The castle was demolished 1641. {marginal = Bewcastle Cross} No correct drawing has yet been made of the curious cross, whose inscription is in Runic characters. George Vertue shewed four to the Society of Antiquaries 1746, which I have not been able to recover. It is one entire square freestone about 15 feet high, washed over with a white oily cement: each side two feet broad at bottom tapering up. On the west side is a figure of a man with a hawk on his arm, and over him a long inscription, of which bishop Nicolson could find but six or seven lines, and only five letters visible; but Mr. Smith [h] found nine lines with many well known Runic letters, and many characters not so intelligible, but equall perfect. On another side a figure of a saint or apostle with a nimbus, and above him the Virgin and child, both their heads in nimbi. On the north side is the chequer work, alluded to by Mr. Camden, and common on early crosses [i], and under it the fair characters engraved Pl.XIII. fig.1. Bishop Nicolson read this Rynburn, and explained it of the magical Runae or Ramruner, which Wormius and Arngrim Jonas say differed totally from the common Runic letters, and were much used as spells and charms, producing either good or ill effects according to the will of the parties who used them. Such charms appear to have obtained among the borderers so late as the close of the last century; a neighbouring gentleman having shewed the bishop a book of them taken out of the pocket of a moss trooper, containing, among other things, a certain remedy for the ague, by applying certain barbarous charms to the body. His lordship offers another explanation, making the 3d and 4th letter [ - runes] instead of [ - runes] which will make the reading Ryceburn in the old Danish, Coemiterium or Cadaverum sepulchrum. For though the true old Runic word for Cadaver be usually written [ - runes] Hrae, the H may be easily omitted, and then the difference of spelling the word here and on the monuments in Denmark will not be material. As to what he says of the "chequer work being a notable emblem of the tumuli or burying-places of the antients," it is not easy to understand him, and such an inscription on a cross in a church-yard would be superfluous. On the east are only flower-work, foliage, grapes and birds. On the south, flourishes and the inscription in Pl.XIII. fig.2. out of which, imperfect as it is, the bishop makes Gag Ubbo Erlat i.e. Latrones Ubbo vicit, confessing at the same time how little affinity this sense has with the foregoing, however agreeable to the manners of the people hereabouts both before and in his time. On the south side was also the inscription in Pl.XIII. fig.3. An inscription from this cross has been sent by Spelman from lord William Howard to Wormius, who published it in his Mon. Dan. p.162-168; see Pl.XIII. fig.4. which he reads thus, q.d. Reno satu Runa stiuod. i.e. Rino lapides hos Runicos fecit; but as he says, these were in epistylio crucis. When bishop Nicolson was here again on his visitation 1703, he tried to make out this on the west side; but though it promised fair at a distance he could not make out even this inscription. I take them to be those given on the head of the cross 1615 [k], part of it now a grave-stone, though bishop Nicolson considers them as part of the ruins of the inscription over the head of the figure on the west side, plainly confounding the transverse piece of the cross with the upright of the cross itself [l]. These make the 3d line fig.4 being copied from a slip of paper inserted in Mr. Camden's copy of his Britannia, ed.1607, in the Bodleian library before referred to, accompanied with the following note: "The imitation of the Pictishe stone taken out by impression or printing the paper within the very letters of the stoane. I receaved this morning a ston from my lord of Arundell, sent him from my lord William. It was the head of a cross at Bewcastle: all the letters legable ar ther on on line. And I have sett to them such as I can gather out of my alphabetts: that like an A I can find in non. But whither this may be only lettres or words I somewhat doubt." See the third line Pl.Xiii. fig.4. 200.a -- Burn, p.xvi. 200.b -- Lel. VII. 72. 200.c -- Horsl. 354. 233. Northumb. lxxvii. 200.d -- Ib. 151. 200.e -- Ib. 271. Cumb. xlv. 200.f -- Cumb. xlvi. p.270. 200.g -- P. 270, 271. 200.h -- Gent. Mag. XII. 1742, 132. 318. 529. 200.i -- See Cornwall, Wales, and Scotland. 200.k -- Cott. Lib. Dom. xviii. 7. 200.l -- Nicolson's letter to Mr. Walker. G. Armstrong in Lond. Magaz. Aug. 1775. Burn, II. 478. Gillesland Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (201) {marginal = Gillesland. / Gilsland} Gillesland might also take its name from Hubert de Vallibus or Vaux, since de Vallibus and Gills mean the same, or from the river Gelt which runs through the middle of it. The bottom wherein the brook runs is the Gill [15]. Its boundary may be seen in Burn, II. p.479. The barony of Gillesland which before the Conquest belonged to Bueth, was granted by Ranulphus de Meschines in the time of the Conqueror to one Hubert a Norman, who took his name from it. Gill in this country dialect signifies a dale or valley, and hence he was styled Hubert Vaux or de Vallibus. His son Robert is said to have basely murdered Gills Bueth, the son of Bueth the antient possessor, in atonement for which he founded Lanercost abbey; but see hereafter. The heiress of Vaux married Thomas de Multon, and brought the barony into his family t. Henry III. and their great great grand daughter conveyed it in the same manner t. Edward II. to Ranulphus de Dacre of Dacre castle. In this family it continued till the death of the last male heir George lord Dacre of Gillesland, Graystock, and Wemm, who left three sisters coheiresses. In the partition of the estate this fell to the share of Elizabeth married to lord William Howard, third son of Thomas Howard duke of Norfolk, in whose posterity it still continues [m]. {marginal = Brampton. / Brampton} The chief residence of the lords of this great barony (ever since the building of Naworth castle at least) was in Brampton parish [n]. Here was an hospital founded by the late earl of Carlisle, Edward Howard, or his countess 1692, and subsisting in Dr. Todd's time, for six poor men and as many women, but dropped by the late earl or his father. The chapel however remains in use, the parish church being desolate and ruinous [o]. Near the town is a large round hill called the moat, 50 yards high, gently and gradually tapering from the base to the summit with a trench or ditch round it at the top [p]. {marginal = Scaleby castle. [Pl.]XIII. [fig.]5. [Fig.]6. [Fig.]7. / Scaleby Castle; roman inscription} Scalebycastle was sold by sir Christopher Pickering's daughter's son by sir Francis Weston to the Musgraves, who rebuilt it 1696, and sold it to the Gilpins, who left it to the Stephensons [q]. Here are preserved five altars. The first, a yellowish stone, found not far from the castle in the river Irthing. Mr. Gilpin refers it with the rest to Cambeck fort, near which that river runs [r]. This is one of the six British altars dedicated to Belatucader, who is either Mars, Apollo, or some other local deity worshipped by the Romanised Britans in these parts [s]. The second, dug up at Cambeck, to be read Soli invicto Sextus Severius Salavator praef. votum solvit lubens merito [t]. The third is inscribed DEO COCIDI COH. I. AEL ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... A ... VS Cocis is some local deity; the last letters may mean praef. votum solvit [u]. {marginal = [Fig.]8.} The 4th to Mithras, DEO SOLI MITR ... ... VIS ... ... COR ... ... ... [x] {marginal = Fig. 9.} The 5th from Cambeck fort has I ... ... COH. IIII. GALLORVM C P VOLCA. IUS HOSPEIS PR ... FEQ. i.e. Jovi Optimo Maximo cohors 4 [x] Gallorum cui praest Volcatius Hospes praefectus equitum [y]. {marginal = Castlesteeds. / roman fort, Castlesteads; roman inscription} The fort of Castlesteeds is almost opposite to Brampton, and stands on the south-east of Cambeck on a rising ground about a mile from and within the wall. It is an oblong square: from the south-east front the ground declines to the river Irthing; on which ground are visible foundations of walls and streets, but removed for the sake of buildings and tillage. On the other side is a steep bank, under which the Cammock beck or Cambeck runs coming from the wall. The outwalls are for the most part erased, probably to build a large dwelling-house, which from it takes the name of Castlesteed, and it still yields good stone of all sizes for building, most of them black as if the whole building had been burnt, and great numbers of iron nails, pieces of iron and brass run into lumps though now mouldering have been found; also square tiles about an inch thick with a ledge on one edge to hang them on roofs about 10 inches by 9, and of a yellow close earth, many earthen vessels of different shapes and colours broken in digging. The longest sides of the fort are about four Gunter's chains, and the shortest about two and an half. There are several foundations of houses still standing there pretty high but hard to come at for the bushes. A small cornelian seal was found some years ago, and several inscriptions, of which Mr. Goodman of Carlisle sent copies to Mr. Gale [z]. Mr. Goodman had two pieces of cast brass, each 36lb. weight, found in a peat moss two feet deep adjoining to the Roman road in Cumberland, supposed heads of a catapulta. Sir Joseph Aylosse shewed them to the Society of Antiquaries 1736, and a model was made for them in wood [a]. At Cambeck fort or Castlesteeds in Irthington parish (the only place to which the name of Castlesteeds has been given, it being the general name given to all the military castella), Mr. Horsley places VOREDA or PETRIANA of the Notitia [b]. It is all grown over with wood, yet the boundaries may be traced. It seems to have been about six chains square, and is detached from the wall to the south about 12 chains [c]. To this belong the the ten following inscriptions: 1. COH VIIII. found in the wall near a cottage called Randylands, more than half way from hence to Burdoswald; the letters well cut [d]. 201.15 -- G. 201.m -- Burn, II. 486-488. 201.n -- Burn, II. 486. 201.o -- Ib. 493. 201.p -- Ib. 493. 201.q -- Ib. 457-459. 201.r -- Horsl. Cumb. xxxi. p.260. 201.s -- Archaeol. I. 308-10. III. 101. 201.t -- Horsl. Cumb. xxviii. 258. Gordon, xlvii. p.81. 201.u -- Horsl. Cumb. xvii. 256. 201.x -- Horsl. Cumb. xxix. 259. 201.y -- Horsl. Cumb. xxx. p.260. 201.z -- R. Goodman's letter to R. Gale 1727. Reliq. Gal. p.144. 201.a -- A.S.minutes 201.b -- Horsl. 107. 201.c -- Ib. 154. 201.d -- Horsl. 258. Cumb. xxvi. 2. CIVI. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (202) {marginal = Pl.XIII. fig.10.} 2. CIVITATECAT VVELLBB;VN ORUM. TOIS EDIO. E civitate Catuvellaunorum Titus Oisedio posuit. This is in the fore wall of a house at Howgill about half a mile farther west than Randylands. It commemorates the people called by (Dio LX.20.) Κα[τ ]ελλανοι, and by Ptolemy incorrectly Κα[τ]ινενχλανοι, by producing the transverse stroke of the first λ. Oisedio was a Britan with a Roman praenomen [e]. 3. Two reliefs, now at Netherby, before-mentioned [f]. 4. LEG. VI. V ... ... F found in the east part of the station near the gate [g]. {marginal = Pl.XIII. fig.11.} 5. An altar removed to Kirklinton, and now at Netherby, found with the face downward near Brampton near the east entry as if in the south jamb of the gate with several pieces of pots or urns, &c. [h]. The inscription is to be read, ... omnium gentium templum olim vetus tate conlab sum Gaius Julius Pitanus provinciae praeses restituit. Over the first lines are traces of BVS, whence Mr. Gale and Mr. Ward conjecture VICTORIBVS as on the coins of Constantine, Constantius, Chlorus, and Maximian, VICTOR OMNIVM GENTIVM. {marginal = Pl.XIII. fig.12.} 6. DEO SANG M ARTI VENVSTIN VS LVPVS VSLM. Discovered by Mr. Gordon [i] who gave it to lord Hertford [k]. Four more before-mentioned at Scaleby castle. Here have been also found several curious stones cut with cross lines lattice fashion, like that at Harlow hill, Northumberland, Horsl. XXXI. [l] A small bronze figure, bearded, with curled hair, was found here 1766 [m]. An altar, having on one side a kind of double trident, on another a patera, and on a 3d the inscription, Pl.XIII. fig.13. It was dug up here about 60 years before and buried again in lord Carlisle's wear, with two or three more inscribed stones, as some old men related. On repairing the wear 1741, it was sought for, and carried by Mrs. Appleby's order to the court of her house there. The inscription is thus read by professor Ward [n]: {marginal = ; #x002A; rather Claudius.} Jovi optimo maximo et numini domini nostri cohors secunda Tun- grorum Gordiana millenaria equitum centum quinquaginta cui prae- est Silius * Clau- dianus prae- fectus instante Aelio Martiano Principe decimo kal. J. imperatore domino nostro Gordiano Augusto tertium Po- mpeiano consulibus. We have numini domini nostri in Horlsey's Northumberland, LXXX. Instante is equivalent to curante on some other inscription [o]. But the most considerable doubt which occurs in the inscription is that it makes the emperor Gordian colleague with Pompeianus in his 3d consulate, which the Fasti consulares ascribe to his 2d. Nor is any mention made of this 3d consulate anywhere but here and in another inscription given to us by Gruter, p.MLXXV. 10. which Mr. Ward concludes, therefore, must be a mistake, especially since in several of Gruter's inscriptions Pompeianus is joined with him in his 2d consulate agreeably to the Fasti [p]. The two fragments of the glass bowl with the name AKTAIΩN on one and a dog's head on the other, cut, as supposed, with an adamant, are very curious. Mr. Gale observes, that the cohors mentioned here, though inferior in number, seem to have had the preference in dignity, being also honoured with the name Gordiana after the emperor. It must also have been the first cohort of the legion it belonged to; for Vegetius tells us, that the first cohort of the legion was called Milliaria, and consisted of 1105 foot and 132 horse; and as the several cohorts of a legion and their auxiliaries bore the same proportion to each other, so the first auxiliary cohort must have contained as many in number as the first legionary cohort, and though this might have been the 2d of the Tungri as perhaps levied after the first, it might be the first of the wing to which it belonged, and dignified with these honourable titles for some peculiar merit. Neither is it improbable that it might belong to the Ala Aug. Gordiana ob virtutem appellata quartered in this country. Mr. Gale was further of opinion, that CL must be numeral, for though the true number of horse in a cohort is said to be no more than 132, as that was not always certain, especially in the lower empire, this cohort of Tungri might chance to have a few more in it than usual, and that might be a very good reason to express it on this stone, it being of some consideration to be more numerous than the others. Instante may occur in the very imperfect inscription given by Horsley, Scotland, 7. XXXIX. INS. So we have --- instans operi regnisque futuris, AEn. I. 504. and instans operibus, Plin. Paneg. c.18. Princ for Principe in the ninth line is the proper name of a man, and occurs often in Gruter. There being no cross stroke in the N of MARTIN it is to be read Martino not Martiano. X KALI is decimo kal. Januarii, Junii, or Julii. IMP DNG AVG III. he believed must be read Imperatore Domino nostro Gordinano Augusto tertio, and what follows, Pompeiano consulibus, and that it is no mistake of the emperor being the 3d time consul instead of the 2d, for in Gruter he is mentioned as consul the 2d time with 202.e -- Horsl. Cumb. xxvii. p.258. 202.f -- Pennant, 263. Horsl. 262. Cumb. xxxii. 202.g -- Horsl. 262. Cumb. xxxii. 202.h -- Horsl. 262. Cumb. xxxiv. Pennant, Voy. to the Hebrides, p.71. 202.i -- It. Sept. p.81. 202.k -- Horsl. 263. Cumb. xxxv. 202.l -- Horsl. 263. 202.m -- Ant. Soc. min.X. p.190. 202.n -- Gent. Mag. XI. 1741. 650. XII. 1742, 30. 202.o -- Horsl. Durh. xi. xii. 202.p -- Yet it seems to be confirmed by the other fragments here. Pompeianus, Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (203) {continues last paragraph}Pompeianus, and as it was in the 4th year of his reign that he was consul with him, these numerals cannot refer to a 3d consulate which he never took, but must relate to his being the 3d emperor of that name. If it be objected that it was not usual for the Roman emperors to style themselves I. II. III. Mr. Gale answers that there never were three of the same name thus nearly preceding each other as the three Gordians, if at any time: however, the inscription in Gruter, p.MLXXXV. must include a mistake where it represents this Gordianus P.M. TRIB. POT. COS. III. P .P. the III. immediately followed COS, and so cannot be applied to any other word, but is a palpable mistake of the stone-cutter. In the wood where the fort has been Mr. Appleby found a Roman hypocaust, a regular clay floor with above 100 pillars on it about two feet high, and between every two of them a hollow parallelopipedon of burnt clay, 16 inches long and six wide, with a hole through the opposite side serving as flues. It was five yards by nine within the walls: and on the pillars was another floor of white stone, about an inch thick, curiously cemented for the bath. There was also found the bottom and sides of an iron grate, and some pieces of charcoal were lying scattered up and down on the floor. Adjoining to the south wall where the grate stood were two rooms, supported in the same manner with pillars and flues, and the floors paved as the baths with the addition of a curious cemented composition of lime, brick, dust, and pebbles, at least four inches thick, spread over the stone, of a wonderful hardness. Many other curious floors were found among the ruins and some coal-ashes: but these were supposed of later date, as well as several other articles found here. There was also a cold bath found near the place, and not far from it something like a cistern about five yards by 1½, composed of thick slate stones, very large and set edgewise, well cemented together [q]. The two inscriptions, mentioned by Mr. Camden, as discovered at Castlesteeds and Trederman hard by, Mr. Horsley could no where find. Trederman is much nearer Burdoswald than Cambeck, and there is nothing of Roman antiquity in that castle or about it: nor are they at Naworth, where is half an altar standing in a gate, which Mr. Horsley could not think had any relation to them. There is also a large altar built up in the jamb of a chimney at Whitefield, about a mile west from this fort, which the old people said was brought from hence or a part of the wall very near it. But it is so defaced that not a letter is visible on it [r]. No decisive conjectures can therefore be offered on these two inscriptions. In Holland's edition is the following inscription given as lately found on a fair votive altar erected to the goddess Nymphe of the Brigantes for the health of the empress Plautilla wife to M. Aurelius Antoninus Severus, and the whole imperial family by Cocceius Nigrinus, a treasurer to the emperor, when Laetus was 2d time consul: DEAE NYMPHAE BRIG QVOD VOVERAT PRO SALVTE PLAVTILLAE CO. INVICTAE DOM. NOSTRI INVICTI IMP. M. AVRELII SEVERI ANTONII PII FEL. CAES. AVG. TOTIVSQVE DO MVS DIVINAE EJVS M. COCCEIVS NIGRINVS Q. AVG. N. DEVOTVS LIBENS SVSCEPTVM S LAETO II ... which intricate connexion of letters the Doctor read, Deae Nymphae Brigantum Quod voverat pro Salute Plautillae conjugis invictae Domini nostri invicti Imperatoris Marci Aurelii Severi Antonii pii felicis Caesaris Augusti totiusque do mus divinae ejus M. Cocceius Nigrinus Quaestor Augusti numini devotus Libens susceptum solvit Laeto II ... It is not in the additions to the edition of 1722, nor could Mr. Horsley find it [s], but he was of opinion it should be referred to some part near Cambeck or Brampton. {marginal = Old wall} At Old wall about two miles west from Cambeck fort are two inscriptions of the centurial kind [t]: LEG. II. AVG. [V] IVLI. TE RTVLLIA. and [V] COISIL NCINI. Mr. Horsley [u] supposed them to belong to the station at Watch cross or somewhere by Scaleby castle. In the field called the House steeds near Watch cross, one of the altars now at Scaleby castle was ploughed up, but had no inscription on it. Another of the altars in the same castle, had been neglected till Mr. Gilpin took it into his garden. This had probably belonged to the same station [x]. {marginal = BREMETURACUM. Brampton. / Bremeturacum} Horsley [y] places BREMETURACUM or BREMETEURACUM at Old Penrith, as we have already seen. Afterwards he changed his opinion for Brampton [z], which is a little market town under lofty hills, having two fairs for cattle and sheep. The moat is a considerable fortification, probably Danish, near 360 feet perpendicular, about 40 feet perpendicular from the crown, a ditch near 20 feet deep and 300 paces in circumference, the top a level plain 40 paces diameter [a]. {marginal = Pl.XIV. 1. Geltr. / Written Rock of Gelt} The Inscription on a rock overhanging the river Gelt about half a mile above Gelt bridge, Gordon or Gale in him, and Horsley Cumb. XLIV. copied differently and more full. Agricola is supposed to have been some optio or deputy to the centurion commanding the party that worked in this quarry, now known by the name of the Old Quarry. The numerals IX. X. added above express the 9th and 10th cohorts of the Legio II. Aug. employed here. The consuls mentioned in one of the five lines left dotted by Mr. Camden held their office A.D. 207, under Severus, who, Cassiodorus says, that year made war 203.q -- Gent. Mag. 1741, p.30. 76. 135. 203.r -- Horsl. 263, 264. 203.s -- P. 269. 203.t -- Cumb. xxxvi. xxxvii. p.264. 203.u -- P. 264. 203.x -- Ib. 265. 203.y -- P. 111. 203.z -- P. 481. 203.a -- Hutchinson, 261. upon Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (204) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = Castle Crag.} upon the Britans, and drew the wall 132 miles from sea to sea. Officina Mercati means the company of workmen under Mercatius, whose name with the addition of Fermius is repeated. The more modern words Officium Romanorum are now effaced [b]. Q. if not intended for opisicium Romanorum by some monk. Mr. Hutchinson [c] copied the whole very differently. On an eminence about two miles hence is Castle Carrock or Crag, a square vallum of loose stones, each side 120 paces wide [d]. {marginal = Cumrew. Dunwalloght castle. / Dunwalloght Castle} In the parish of Cumrew adjoining to that of Castle Carrock about a quarter of a mile south-east from the church are ruins of a large castle or building, situate on a rising ground very near the bottom of Cumrew fell. This seems to be Dunwalloght castle mentioned in Dugdale's Baronage, II. 22. as situate on the marches towards Scotland and belonging to the Dacres [e]. {marginal = Naworth. / Naworth Castle; roman inscription} Naworth, "a fair castle called the lord Davers [f]," is still intire and inhabited, though not by the earl of Carlisle, whose property it is. It is large, and built round a square court, overhanging the river Irthing at a great height, with towers at each corner. Over the south gate and door are the arms of the Dacres and Howards. The rooms are numerous, ascended to by 16 staircases, the great hall 25 paces long by nine and a half, with a gallery at one end. The top and upper end painted on wood in squares with Saxon kings and heroes brought from Kirk Oswald castle, when it was demolished [g]. Within this is another room hung with tapestry, with portraits of Anne of Cleves and the family. Lord William Howard's bed-room has his arms and motto over the chimney. His library is a small room in a very secret place high up in one of the towers well secured by doors and narrow staircases; not a book added since his time. In it is a vast case, three feet high, opening into three leaves, on which are pasted in six great pages an account of the foundation of Glastonbury abbey by Joseph of Arimathea, and a long history of saints with their indulgences. The roof is coarsely carved, the windows high, ascended by three stone steps. It is said lord William was very studious, and wrote much; and that once when he was thus employed, a servant announced the arrival of a prisoner, and asking what was to be done with him, his master, vexed at the interruption, peevishly bid him hang him, which order he wished to have recalled when he found it was executed. He constantly kept a garrison of 140 men here, and his severity was of great importance in this lawless tract. his dungeon consists of three dark apartments below, and one above up a long staircase all well secured. In the upper a ring to which criminals were chained, and the marks of many more. The gallery is 150 feet long. Close by the library is an antient oratory well secured, the cieling richly ornamented with coats of arms and carving painted and gilt. On one side a good painting on wood of the style of Lucas van Leyden, of the Scourging, Crucifixion, and Resurrection of Christ; also various sculptures in white marble. Here his lordship enjoyed his religion in privacy. The chapel is below stairs, the top and part of the sides painted in pannels like the hall, and with the crests and arms of the family to 1623 and 1644. On the ceiling a man with a genealogical tree, and under him Pictor MCXII. In the east window a knight and lady, with three escallops and chequè on their mantles [h]. This castle is first mentioned 18 Richard II. It continued in the Dacres till the death of lord George 1569, whose sister married lord William Howard. It was again repaired by Charles Howard earl of Carlisle, who left the library in good order. The MSS. were enumerated in the Cat. Manuscriptorum Ang. & Hib. tom.II. p.14. chiefly relating to heraldry and English history, but not above one or two are now here. In the garden walls was fixed a collection of Roman inscriptions from the neighbourhood (this being the greatest receptacle in this county except that at Elenborough hall [i]), which, when Dr. Stukeley was here, were neglected, and some even cut up to make gateposts [k]. The remainder were given by the late earl to sir Thomas Robinson, and are now neglected and abused in the museum at Rookby, the seat of Bacon Morrit, esq. Among these are Horsley's Cumb. viii. ix. x. lviii. Others first published by Horsley, and not traceable since his time, when they were all much neglected, are Cumb. xii. xiii. xiv. xv. p.255. and an altar cut through the middle for a gate post, which never had an inscription. Bishop Gibson has copied Horsley's viii. ix. at Naworth, though Camden had given it at Burdoswald. Horsley takes no notice of the other two which he gives. We have copied from Horsley those in Pl.XIV. fig.2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. The following was found April 1744 in a wall of George Wright's house at Naworth on rebuilding it: not unlike Horsley's Cumb. xxiv. Pl.XIV, 6. LEG. VI. VIC. PIA. FID. F. ... Legio sexta Victrix Pia fidelis fecit. [l] Mr. Smith communicated also another in the south-east wall of Naworth garden unpublished: PED C. L. B[TR]T. which he read Peditum centum quinquaginta Britanorum [m]. {marginal = Lanercost. / Lanercost Priory} "Lenercost, an abbay of black canons, eight miles from Cairleul, on the notth (sic) side of the river Yrthing [n]," founded by Robert de Vallibus 1189, as an atonement for murdering Gill, son of Bueth, at an arbitration about Gillesland, and valued at £.77. [o] It stands in a romantic valley, the monastic offices converted into a farm house, and the hall is a farm. In the ruined choir, whose arches are round and the pillars circular or polygonal, are many elegant but damaged tombs of the Dacre family. One of the tombs is dated 1445. Several bodies have been found intire in the vault which is open, one with a long white beard [p]. The nave rests on pointed arches; the west front has long lancet windows, as were the east, and over them is a good figure of the patroness Mary Magdalen. The church-yard gate has a handsome round arch. Sir Thomas Dacre resided here 1559, and repaired the nave, which is commemorated by some lines in the east window. Near this place, at Shaws, a medicinal spring called Holywell issues out of a rock impregnated with sulphur, nitre, and vitriol, and good for the spleen, stone, and 204.b -- Horsl. 267-269. 204.c -- P. 163. 204.d -- Ib. 204.e -- Burn, II. 511. 204.f -- Lel. VI. 72. 204.g -- See before, p. 204.h -- Pennant 1772, p.73*. Hutchinson, 276. Grose. 204.i -- Horsl. 154. 204.k -- It. Cur. II. 58. 204.l -- Gent. Mag. 1744. 340. 204.m -- Ib. 1746. 537. 204.n -- Lel. VI. 71. 204.o -- Tan. 77. 204.p -- Grose. Hutchinson, 267-277. Pennant Ib. 77*. cutaneous Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (205) {continues last paragraph}cutaneous disorders, and much resorted to both by the English and Scotch [q]. The tradition of this abbey being founded in atonement for a murder seems to have little or no grounds from the foundation charter, wherein the founder Robert does not even enjoin the monks to pray for the soul of Giles Bueth. At the dissolution it was granted to Thomas Dacre of Lanercost, afterwards knighted, and commonly called Bastard Dacre, being an illegitimate son of Thomas lord Dacre of the North, whence the family bear in their arms the bar of difference. He repaired the mansion house 1559, and put up in the dining room window these lines, now in the east window of the church: Mille & quingentos ad quinquaginta novemque Adjice, & hoc anno condidit istud opus Thomas Dacre eques, sedem qui primus in istam Venerat, extincta relligione loci. Haec Edoardus ei dederat, devoverat ante Henricus longae praemia militiae. Upon failure of the male heirs of his body it reverted to the crown, and is now in lease to Frederic earl of Carlisle [r]. {marginal = Burdoswald.; Pl.XIV. 9.; Pl.XIV. 10.; Pl.XIV. 11. / roman fort, Birdoswald; roman inscription} Burdoswald, in Lanercost parish, a very large and remarkable fort, at which more inscriptions have been found than at any other Roman station, was the AMBOGLANA of the Notitia, the station of the cohors I Elia Dacorum. Many of the stones found here having been brought over the river to Willoford, that place has without reason been supposed a station; for there are no such appearances [s]. Ford and Worth are often confounded. Volurtium Raven. is on the altar Volantium [t]. Of the inscriptions given by Mr. Camden the 3d, 7th, and 8th, are at Rookby, from Naworth [u], the first was at Naworth, Horsley's Cumb. xi. the 2d, if it was not a large low altar now in a corner of a house at Willoford, is lost [x]; the 4th seems to be on an altar at Corby castle [y], Horsley's Cumb. xvi. and to be read Pro salute D N Maximi ac fortissimi Marii Aurelii Maximiani ... aedificavit. The focus is very particular [z]. The 5th is Horsley's Cumb. xxiv. p.259 at Naworth. The 6th was built up in the front of a house within the fort at Burdoswald [a]. At Willoford were the altars [b], fig12, 13. Pl.XIV. with other stones that have the centurial mark, or are uninscribed [c]. At Underhaugh, a house between Burdoswald and the Irthing, was fig.14. Pl.XIV. [d] and within the fort [c], fig.15. and fig.11. Fig.1 Pl.XV. was in a garden or yard wall on the south side of the fort [f]: fig.2. is Horsley's XIII. fig.3 his XII. fig.4 his XIV. Fig.6 Pl.XV. was on the front wall of the principal house at Murray, a village a quarter of a mile east from Burdoswald [g]. The stone inscribed DADA is in a house in the fort [h]: two others [i]. Some centurial stones COH. viiii. [k] were at Lanerton, a mile west from Burdoswald [l]. Above 100 yards without the fort eastward in a kind of ruin were dug up two more altars, with inscriptions, communicated by Mr. George Smith to Gent. Mag. 1746, 538. engraved Pl.XV. fig.7, 8. They recite the Cohors I Elia Dacorum Postumiana. {marginal = ALIONE. / Whitley Castle (Northumberland); roman inscription} Whitley castle in Northumberland is the antient ALIONE [m]. The inscription given by Mr. Camden is probably lost, for that now at Appleby is but a copy. It belongs to Caracalla, whose relationship to the several emperors here enumerated is explained by Mr. Ward [n]. Mr. Horsley saw in the hands of Mr. Henry Wallace, of Whitley, proprietor of the site of the station this inscription [o]: VEX. LEG. XX VV RE FEC and in a house called Castle-nook, at the south entry of the station another [p] likewise to Caracalla. At Kirkhaugh adjoining in the church-yard is this inscription on an altar: DEAE ME NERVAE ET HERCVLI VICTOR. i.e. Deae Minervae & Herculi Victori [q]. {marginal = Earls of Cumberland. / Cumberland, Earl of} According to Dugdale [r] William de Meschines was brother to Ranulph, earl of Chester, and had Coupland bestowed on him by the Conqueror, or Henry I. and his son Ranulph died in his life time. But, p.525. he says Ranulph de Meschines had the whole county of Cumberland bestowed on him by Henry I. and granted Gillesland to Hubert de Vaux, as before, p.201. The chronicle of Cumberland [s] makes Ranulph earl of Cumberland, his brother Geoffrey earl of Chester, and his brother William lord of Coupland. Dugdale [t] makes Ranulph, earl of Chester, to have been earl of Cumberland, and to have died 1129, 29 Henry I. and his brother William lord of Coupland, and Geoffrey of Gillesland. From this Ranulph the present earl of Carlisle, lord Gillesland, is descended by the female line. Francis Clifford, earl of Cumberland, died 1641, and was succeeded by his only son Francis, who died at York 1643, leaving an only daughter Elizabeth, married to Richard Boyle viscount Dungannon, created 20 Charles I. lord Clifford, of Lonsborough, and 16 Charles II. earl of Burlington [u]. The title of duke of Cumberland was conferred on prince George of Denmark, who was also created earl of Kendal, and baron Ockingham [16]. It was revived 1726 in the person of William Augustus, second son of his late Majesty, after whose death, 1765, it was conferred by his present Majesty, 1766, on his youngest brother Henry Frederic, who at present enjoys it. 205.q -- G. Short. Burn, II. 505. 205.r -- Burn, II. 501. 504. 205.s -- Horsl. 107. 205.t -- Gale MS. n. 205.u -- Horsl. Cumb. viii. ix. x. 205.x -- Horsl. 252. 205.y -- Gordon, xliii. 96. 205.z -- Cumb. vii. 253. 205.a -- Ib. vii. 253. 205.b -- Horsl. Cumb. i. ii. 252. 205.c -- Horsl. 253. 205.d -- Horsl. Cumb. iv. 253. 205.e -- Cumb. v. vii. 205.f -- Horsl. Cumb. vi. 253. Gord. pl.XLV. fig.4. 205.g -- Horsl. Cumb. xviii. 205.h -- Ib. xix. 205.i -- Ib. xx. xxi. xxii. xxiii. 205.k -- Ib. xxvi. 205.l -- Ib. xxv. 258. 205.m -- Horsl. 85. 89. 110, 111. 205.n -- Horsl. 51. Northumb. cxiii. 205.o -- Northumb. cxi. 205.p -- Northumb. cxii. 205.q -- Ib. cxiv. p.252. 205.r -- Bar. I. 89. 205.s -- Mon. Ang. I. 400. 205.t -- Mon. Ang. I. 397. Bar. I. 38. 205.u -- Dugd. II. 346. 205.16 -- G. Rare Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (206) {marginal = Cumberland, plant list / flowers; botany} Rare Plants found in Cumberland. Alchemilla alpina. Cinque-foil Ladies Mantle; on rocks near the lake called Ullswater, not far from Penrith. Allium vineale. Crow-garlic; in meadows and pastures. --- ursinum. Ramsons; in woods and hedges. Althaea officinalis. Marsh Mallow; in sea marshes. Andromeda polifolia. Marsh Cistus, or Wild Rosemary; in turfy bogs. Anthyllis vulneraria. Kidney-vetch or Ladies Finger; in meadows and pastures in chalky and lime stone soil. Artemesia maritima. Sea Wormwood; on sea shores. Arundo arenaria. Sea Reed-Grass; on sandy sea shores. Asplenium adiantum nigrum. Black Maiden-hair; in shady places and on old walls. --- marinum. Sea Maiden-hair or Fern; on sea rocks. --- Ruta muraria. White Maiden-hair or Wall Rue; in damp chinks of rocks and on old walls. --- Trichomanes. Common Maiden-hair; on old walls. Aster Tripolium. Sea Starwort; on the sea shore in a clay soil. Athamanta meum. Common Spignel; in mountainous meadows. Atrope Belladonna. Deadly Nightshade or Dwale; in hedges and amongst rubbish. Beta vulgaris. Sea Beet; on sea shores. Brassica monensis. Procumbent Cabbage, or Rocket; on sandy sea shores. Butomus umbellatus. Flowering Rush, or Water Gladiole; on the banks of rivers and ponds. Carduus helenoides. Melancholy Thistle; in mountainous pastures. --- marianus. Milk Thistle; on ditch banks and on rubbish. Campanula latifolia. Giant Throat-wort; amongst bushes and hedges. --- Trachelium. Great Throat-wort, or Canterbury Bells; in woods and hedges. --- glomerata. Lesser Throat-wort, or Canterbury Bells; in hilly and chalky pastures. Chelidonium Glaucium. Yellow horned Poppy; on sandy sea shores. Chrithmum maritimum. Sampire; on sea shores. Chrysosplenium oppositifolium. Common Golden Saxifrage; in damp shady places. Circaea lutetiana. Enchanters Nightshade; in damp shady placs and hedges. Cynosurus caeruleus. Blue Dog-tail Grass; in hilly meadows. Crambe maritima. Sea Cole-wort; on sandy sea shores. Conserva fluviatilis. Horse-tail Conserva; in rivers. DroseraAnglica. Great Sundew; in boggy places. Empetrum nigrum. Black-berried Heath, Crow or Crake Berries; on mountainous heaths. Erica multiflora Fir-leaved Heath; on heaths. Eriophoron polystachion. Cotton Grass; in damp meadows and bogs. --- vaginatum. Hair's tail Rush; in turfy bogs on mountains. Eryngium maritimum. Sea Holly or Eryngo; on sea shores. Fucus esculentus. Esculent Fucus; on submarine rocks and stones. --- linearis. Narrow-leaved Fucus or Sea Thongs; on submarine rocks and stones. --- vesiculosus. Common Fucus or Sea Oak; on sea rocks and stones. Galanthus nivalis. Snow-drop; in meadows and hedges. Geranium cicutarium. Hemlock-leaved Cranesbill; on rubbish and walls. --- moschatum. Musked Cranesbill; in dry meadows. --- nodosum. Knotty Cranesbill; in mountainous places. --- sylvaticum. Mountain Cranesbill; in mountainous pastures and bushy places. Galeobdolon luteum. Yellow Nettle-Hemp; in hedges and shady places. Gentiana Centaurium. Lesser Centaury; in dry and barren pastures. Geum rivale. Water Avens; in moist hilly pastures. Glaux maritima. Sea Milk-wort, or Black Salt-wort; in sea marshes. Isatis tinctoria. Woad; in cornfields. Jungermannia ciliaris. Fern Jungermania; in woods, on damp heaths, and by rivers. Leonurus Cardiaca. Motherwort; on rubbish and in hedges. Lichen furfuraceus. Branny Liver-wort; on trunks of trees. --- geographicus. Map Liver-wort; on rocks. Lycopodium Alpinum. Mountain Club-moss; on hilly heaths. --- clavatum. Common Club-moss; on mountains and heaths. --- inundatum. Marsh Club-moss; on damp heaths. --- Selago. Fir Club-moss; on hilly heaths. Lysimachia nemorum. Yellow Pimpernel of the Woods; in shady and damp woods. Lobelia Dortmanna. Water Gladiole; in the lake called Ulswater. Malva Alcea. Vervain Mallow; in hedges and at the sides of fields. Marrubium vulgare. White Horehound; on rubbish and by way sides. Melampyrum Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (207) Melampyrum sylvaticum. Yellow Cow-wheat; in woods and woody places. Menyanthes trifoliata. Marsh Trefoil, or Buck-bean; in marshy and watry places. Narthecium ossifragum. Lancashire Asphodel; in trufy bogs. Nepeta cataria. Nep, or Cat-mint; in meadows and hedges, in a limestone soil. Nymphaea lutea. Yellow Water Lily; in rivers, ponds, and ditches. --- alba. White Water Lily; in rivers and ponds. Ophioglossum vulgatum. Adder's-tongue; in damp meadows and pastures. Origanum vulgare. Wild Margoram; in bushy places and hedges in a limestone soil. Orobus sylvaticus. English Wood-Vetch; at Gamlesby. Osmunda regalis. Osmund Royal, or Flowering Fern; in marshy and watery places. Parietara officinalis. Pellitory of the wall; amongst rubbish, and on walls. Parnassia palustris. Grass of Parnassus; in damp meaows. Phalaris arenaria. Sea Canary grass; in sandy places by the sea. --- arundinacea. Reed Canary Grass; on the banks of rivers and lakes. Pinguicula vulgaris. Butterwort, or Yorkshire Sanicle; in boggy places. Plantago coronopus. Buckshorn Plantain; in sandy places. --- maritima. Narrow-leaved Plantain; on sea shores. --- media. Hoary Plantain; in meadows and pastures in a limestone soil. Polygonum Bistorta. The greater Bistort, or Snake-weed; in dampish meadows. Poa pratensis β alpinum. Alpine Meadow-grass; on the mountains. Polypodium fragrans. Sweet Polypody; in damp chinks of stones. Prenanthes muralis. Ivy-leaved Wild Lettuce; on walls and in shady woods. Primula farinosa. Bird's-eye; in bogs on mountains. Pulmonaria maritima. Sea Bugloss; on the sea shore near Whitehaven, plentifully. Prunus Padus. Wild Cluster-Cherry, or Bird-Cherry; in woods and hedges. Rhodiola Rosea. Rose-wort; on the mountains. Ribes nigrum. Black Currants, or Squinancy Berries; in damp woods, and on banks of rivers. Rubus Chamaemorus. Cloud Berries, or Knot Berries; in turfy bogs, on the mountains. --- saxatilis. Stone Bramble; among stones at the sides of the mountains. Rumex digynus. Round-leaved Mountain Sorrel; on the mountains. Salicornia Europaea. Marsh Sampire; on sea shores. Salix hermaphroditica. Shining Willow; in damp hedges: about Ashton. Sambucus Ebulus. Dwarf Elder, or Dane Wort; in hedges, and by way sides. Sanicula Europaea. Sanicle; in woods and woody places. Sedum Telephium. Orpine, or Live-long; on walls, also in hedges. Silene Amoena. Sea Campion; on sandy sea shores. Solidago virgaurea. Golden Rod; in woods and hedges, also on heaths. Statice armeria. Thrift, or sea Gilly-flower; in meadows, and on rocks near the sea. Stratiotis Aloides. Water Aloe, Fresh Water Soldier; in marsh ditches. Taxus baccata. Eugh Tree; on mountains. Thlaspi alpestre. Perfoliate Bastard Cress; in the moist pastures in a limestone soil. Thalictrum flavum. Meadow Rue; in damp meadows and pastures, and on the banks of rivers. Tragopogon porrifolium. Purple Goat's-beard; in the felds about Carlisle and Rose castle. Tremella utriculata. Bladder Tremella; in rivulets on the mountains. Trientalis Europaea. Winter-green; in woods, and on turfy heaths. Triglochin palustre. Arrow-headed Grass; in wet meadows and pastures. --- maritimum. Sea Spiked Grass; in sea meadows. Triticum junceum. Sea Wheat-grass; on sea shores. Trollius europaeus. The Globe-flower; or Locker Gowlons; on the sides of mountains, and in hilly meadows. Turritis hirsuta. Hairy Tower Mustard; on rocks, walls, and in stony places. Vaccinium Myrtillus. Black Whorts, Whortle-berries, or Bill-berries; in woods, and on heaths. --- oxycoccus. Cranberries, or Moss-berries; in turfy marshes. --- uliginosum. The greater Bill-berry Bush; on mountains between Hexam and Penrith. Viola hirta. Hairy Violet; in woody places and in hedges on a limestone soil. Utricularia minor. Lesser Hooded Millfoil; in turfy bogs and ditches. An Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (209) {marginal = Division of Cumberland} An Account of the Division of Cumberland by William the Conqueror amongst his Followers [a]; taken out of two antient Latin Manuscripts in the Library of the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle; carefully collated by the Rev. Dr. Hugh Todd (who communicated it to Bishop Gibson.) KING William, sirnamed the Bastard, duke of Normandy, Conqueror of England, gave all the lands of the county of Cumberland to Ranulphus de Meschines: and to Galfridus, brother to the said Ranulph, he gave the whole county of Chestre: and to William another brother he gave all the land of Coupland between Duden and Darwent. Ranulphus de Meschines infeoffed Hubertus de Waux [b] in the barony of Gillesland; and Ranulphus his brother in Sowerby, Carlaton, and Hubbrightby. And Robert the third brother in the barony of Dalston. He infoeffed also Robert Destrivers in the barony of Burgh, and Richerus de Boyvile in the barony of Levington, and Odardus de Logis in the barony of Staynton. He infeoffed also Waldevus, son of Gospatricus earl of Dunbar in Scotland, in all the barony of Allerdale between Wathenpole and Darwent. The aforesaid William de Meschines lord of Coupland, infeoffed Waldevus, son of Gospatricus, in all the land that lies between Cocar and Darwent, and also in these townships Brigham, Eglysfeld, Dene, Brainthwaite, and Grisothen: and the two Cliftons and Staneburne. He infeoffed also Odardus le Clerk in the fourth part of Crostwaite, pro custodia asturcorum suorum [c], i.e. for keeping his goshawkes. Galfridus de Meschines earl of Chester, died without issue; and thereupon Ranulphus de Meschines became earl of Chestre; and surrendered to the king all the county of Cumberland, on this condition, that all those that held lands of him in fee should hold of the king in capite. It is called Distributio Cumbriae ad Conquestum Angliae inter gentes. Sir William Dugdale calls it Chronicon Cumbriae; and so the lord William Howard has styled it one of the MSS. but it is a mistake; for that piece of antiquity, if it be extant, was of another nature, and written by Everardus abbot of Holme Cultram t. Hen. II. It was said to be in the library of sir Thomas Gower, bart. but upon search it could not be found. G. Everardus was the first abbot of Holm Cultram 1175, and died 1192, having written the lives of several northern saints. Dempster, v.479. Tanner, Bib. Brit. 271. The foresaid Waldevus, son of earl Gospatricus, infeoffed Odardus de Logis in the barony of Wygton, Dondryt, Waverton, Blancogo, and Kirkbride: which Odardus de Logis founded the church of Wygton; and gave to Odardus, son of Liolfe, Tulentyre and Castlerige, with the forest between Caltre and Greta: and to the prior and convent of Gisburne he gave Appleton and Bricekirk, with the advowson of the church there. He gave also to Adam son of Liolfe, Uldendale and Gilcruce: and to Gemellus son of Brun, Bothill; and to Waldevus son of Gileminius, with Ethreda his sister, he gave Brogham, Ribton and Little Brogham , and Donwaldese and Bowaldese ad unam legiam, for a lodge or house for a ranger. He gave also to Ormus son of Ketellus Seton, Camberton, Flemingbi, Craiksothen, in marriage with Gurwelda his sister: and to Dolfinus son of Abwaldus with Matilda another sister he gave Appletwhaite and Little Crosby, Langrige and Brigham, with the advowson of the church there. He gave also to Melbeth his physician the town of Bromefeld; saving to himself the advowson of the church there. Alanus, son and heir of the said Waldevus, gave to Ranulphus Lyndsey Blenerhasset and Ukmanby, with Ethereda his sister. To Uthrdeus, son of Fergus lord of Galloway, in marriage with Gurnelda [d] his own sister, he gave Torpenhow, with the advowson of the church there. He gave also to Catellus de Spenser [e] Threpeland, He gave also to Herbert the manor of Thuresby, for the third part of a township. He gave also to Gospatricus, son of Ormus, High Ireby, for the third part of a township. He gave also to Gamellus le Brun [f] Rughtwaite, for a third part of a township. He gave also to Radulphus Engaine Issael with the appurtenances; and Blencrake with the service of Newton. And the same Alanus had one bastard brother named Gospatricus, to whom he gave Boulton, Bastinthwaite and Esterholme. And to Odardus he gave Newton, with the appurtenances. And to his three huntsmen Sleth [g] and to his companions Hayton. To Uctredus he gave one carrucat of land in Aspatrike, on condition that he should be his summoner (summonitor) in Allerdale. He gave also to Delfinus six bovates or oxgangs of land in High Crosby, that he should be serviens d. regis, the king's serjeant in Allerdale. And to Simon de Shestelyngs he gave one moiety of Deram. And to Dilfinus, son of Gospatricus, the other mooiety. He gave also to Waldevus, son of Dolfinus, Brakanthwaite. And to the priory of St. Bega he gave Stainburne. And to the priory of Carliol he gave the body of Walddevus his son, with the holy cross, which they have yet in possession; and Crosby, with the advowson of the church there, with the service that Uctredus owed him; and also the advowson of the church of Aspatrike, with the service of Alanus de Brayton. He gave them also the advowson of the church of Ireby, with the suit and service of Waldevus de Langthwaite. The same Alanus, son of Waldevus, gave to king Henry [h] the fields of the forest of Allerdale, with liberty to hunt whenever he should lodge at Holme Cultrane. To this Alanus succeeded William, son 209.a -- 209.b -- Vaux, MS. B. 209.c -- Austurcorum, MS. B. 209.d -- Gunilda, MS. B. 209.e -- Le Despenser, MS. B. 209.f -- Isal and Rugh, MS. B. 209.g -- Selif, MS. B. 209.h -- D.H. regi seniori, MS. B. of Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (210) {continues last paragraph}of Duncane earl of Murrayse, nephew and heir to the said Alanus as being son to Ethreda sister to his father Waldevus. The foresaid William, son of Duncanus, espoused Alicia, daughter of Robert de Rumeney, lord of Skipton in Craven; which Robert had married a daughter of Meschines [i] lord of Coupland. This William had by this Alicia his wife, a son called Willliam de Egremond (who died under age), and three daughters. The eldest named Cicilia [k], being a ward, was married by king Henry to William le Gross earl of Albemarle, with the honour of Skipton for her dower. The second, named Amabilla, was married to Reginald de Luce, with the honour of Egremond by the same king Henry. And the third, named Alicia de Romelic, was married to Gilbert Pipard, with Aspatrike, and the barony of Allerdaleand the liberty of Cokermouth, by the said king Henry: and afterwards by the queen to Robert de Courteny; but she died without heirs of her body. William le Gross earl of Albemarle, had by his wife Cicilia, Harwisia [l]; to whom succeeded William de Fortibus earle of Albemarle: to whom succeeded another William de Fortibus; to whom succeeded Avelina, who was espoused to lord Edmond brother to king Edward, and died without heirs, &c. Reginald de Luce by Amabilla his wife had Alicia [m]. To Amabilla succeeded Lambert de Multon: To him succeeded Thomas Multon de Egremond. And to Alicia succeeded Thomas de Luce [n], to whom succeeded Thomas his son, who was succeeded by Anthony his brother. 210.i -- Willielmi de Meschins, MS. B. 210.k -- Seff. MS. B. and Silitia. 210.l -- Hatewisia. 210.m -- Richardum de Lucy, Amabillum and Aliciam. 210.n -- Quae sequuntur desunt MS. B. THE Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (211) The Wall Pages 211-230 are The Wall THE VALLUM, OR PICTS WALL. {marginal = Fortifications on the boundaries of the provinces / The Wall, CAMDEN / The Picts Wall} THE upper edge of Cumberland is crossed by the famous wall, the boundary of the Roman province, called by the antient writers the Vallum Barbaricum, the Praetentura, and Clusura *, by Dio[a], Δια[ ]ειχισμα, by Herodian [b] χωμα, by Antoninus [c], Cassiodorus [d], and others, Vallum, by Bede [e] Murus, by the Britans Gual Sever, Gal Sever, and Mur Sever, by the Scots Scottinwaith, by the English and the neighbourhood the Picts Wall, or Pehits Wall, the Keepe Wall, and, by way of eminence, The Wall. {marginal = Limits or bounds of the empire / boundary, Roman Empire} When by their valour under Providence the ambition of the Romans crowned with a train of unexpected successes had so extended their empire on every side that they began almost to be jealous of their own greatness, the emperors thought it adviseable to set some bounds to it, considering it as a piece of good policy, "to set some bounds to their greatness, as the Heavens have their proper extent and the sea its limits [f]." These bounds were, according to circumstances of places, either natural as the sea, large rivers, mountains, desarts; or artificial, as lines, viz. ditches, castles, towers, barricadoes of trees, ramparts of earth and walls, along which garrisons were stationed against the barbarians. Hence in the Novellae of Theodosius [g] we read, "Our ancestors contrived the wall on the border to defend against the inroads of the barbarians all the territory comprehended under the Roman allegiance." On these borders soldiers called borderers were quartered in border castles and towns in time of peace: but when there was reason to fear an invasion of the neighbourhood, part of them were staioned in the lands in the country of the barbarians to defend the lands, and part made inroads into the enemy's frontier to watch their motions, and attack them when opportunity offered †. {marginal = Praetentura 1. / roman wall no.1; Agricola's Wall} The Romans in this island seeing the remote parts of Britain, where the soil and air were less favourable, were inhabited by the barbarious Caledonian Britans, the reduction of whom would cost much trouble, and be attended with little advantage, established at various times various Praetenturae to bound and defend the province. The first seems to have been fixed by Julius Agricola when he garrisoned the narrow tract of ground between ‡ Bodotria and Glotta, which was presently after fortified. {marginal = Praetentura 2.; Rota Temporum / roman wall no.2; Hadrian's Wall} Hadrian, to whom the God Terminus gave way when he, either through envy of Trajan's glory, who had extended the empire to the utmost, or through fear, retired above 80 miles in this island, formed the second Praetentura. He, says Spartianus [h], drew a wall for 80 miles to separate the "Romans and Barbarians." From the following words of this author we may collect that this wall was built "of great piles driven deep into the ground, and bound together like a mural § fence [i]." this the wall now under consideration, which runs 80 miles, having on it PONS AELIA, CLASSIS AELIA, COHORS AELIA, ALA SABINIANA, so called after AElius Adrianus and Sabina his wife. The Scotish historian also, who wrote the Rota Temporum, says "Hadrian was the first who drew a rampart of prodgious bulk of sods pared off the ground as high as a mountain, with a very deep ditch in front from the mouth of Tine to the river Esc, from the German ocean to the Irish sea." Hector Boethius [k] expresses it in the same words. {marginal = Praetentura 3. / roman wall no.3; Antonine Wall} Lollius Urbicus, lieutenant of Britain, under Antoninus Pius, by his success in war advanced the frontier again to that first Praetentura established by Agricola, and there raised a third Praetentura on the wall. He, says, Capitolinus [l], "defeated the Britans, and drew another wall of earth to keep off the barbarians," that is different from that of Hadrian. The glory of ending this war in Britain Fronto, as the Panegyrist relates [m], "ascribed to the emperor Antoninus, and though that prince sitting in his palace at Rome committed the conduct of it to him, he gave to him, as to one at the helm of a vessel of war, all the glory of the expedition and voyage." But I shall shew hereafter that this wall of Antoninus Pius and his lieutenant Lollius Urbicus was in Scotland. {marginal = Praetentura 4. / roman wall no.4; Severus's Wall} When the Caledonian Britans in the reign of Commodus had broken through this, Severus, slighting that immense country beyond it, drew a fortification across the island from Eden mouth, or Solway frith, to Tine mouth, in the same place, if I mistake not, where Hadrian made his wall of piles, and with me agrees Hector Boetius [n]. "Severus, says he, commanded Hadrian's wall to be repaired, stone battlements [o] to be added, and towers at such intervals that the sound of a trumpet might be heard from one to the other, even though the wind was contrary;" and in another place [p], "Our chronicles relate that the wall began by Adrian was 211.* -- The frontiers of provinces were called Clusurae from excluding the enemy, and Praetenturae because praetended or drawn before the enemy. See Pichaeus in Adversar. I. c.14. 211.† -- Hence stationes agrariae in Vegetius. 211.‡ -- Edenborrow Frith and Dunbritten frith. 211.z -- Some for muralis read militaris. What is said of the stakes is to be understood with limitation, there being no traces of wood in this work. Horsley, 117. 211.a -- LXXVI. c.12. p.866, 211.b -- III. c.48. 211.c -- Itin. p.464. 466. Edit. Wesseling. 211.d -- Chronicon. 211.e -- H.E. I. 12. 211.f -- [blank] 211.g -- Tit. 43. 211.h -- Hadrian, c.11. p.51. 211.i -- Ib. c.12. p.57. 211.k -- V. fol. lxxviii. 211.l -- v. Art. Pii c.6. p.132. 211.m -- Eumenius Paneg. Constantio c.14. 211.n -- B. VI. fol. lxxxviii. 211.o -- propugnacula. 211.p -- B. VI. fol. lxxix. "completed Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (212) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = MURUS; amp; VALLUM. / turf wall; ditch; stone wall; The Wall, length} "completed by Severus." The very learned Hieronymus Surita of Spain also writes that [q] "Hadrian's fortification was continued further by Severus with vast works by the name of Vallum." Guido Pancirollus is of the same opinion, though he says that Severus only repaired Hadrian's wall, which was ruined. This prince, says Spartian [r], which is the greatest glory of his reign, foritfied Britain with a "wall run across the island, and terminating both ways at the sea, whence also he had the name of BRITANNICUS. He fortified with a wall, says Aurelius Victor [s], as much of Britain as was necessary, after having repulsed the barbarians, &c. " to the same effect as Spartianus. Eutropius [t] says "for the more perfect security of the provinces which he had recovered, he drew a wall 35 miles" (read 80 miles) "from sea to sea." Orosius [u] writes "he thought proper to distinguish that part of the island which he had recovered from the other unconquered nations by a wall. Accordingly he dug a great ditch and raised a very strong wall fortified with a great number of towers for 122 miles from sea to sea." With him agrees Bede, who is very unwilling to own that Severus built the wall, because he will have it that Wall implies stone work, and Vallum a fortification of stakes called Valli and sods; whereas Wall and Vallum are used indistinctly. Spartianus, however, calls it a wall, and insinuates in the following passage that Severus built both a wall and rampart: Post murum apud Vallum in Britannia missum [x]. After the Wall the Vallum in Britain was finished. We learn, however, from Bede, that this Vallum was nothing more than a wall of sods, and nobody can, properly speaking, say that Severus's wall was of stone. But, take Bede's own words. "Severus' having got the better of civil commotions, which had been very considerable, was called into Britain by an almost general revolt of his allies. After many great and severe battles, having recovered part of the island, he thought proper to separate it from the rest of the nations that remained unsubdued, not by a wall, as some think, but by a rampart [y]. For a wall is built of stone; but a rampart, such as camps are fortified with against an enemy, is formed of sods cut out of the ground, and raised like a high wall upon the level of the ground, the ditch from whence the sods were taken remaining in front, above which are driven stakes of the strongest wood. Severus, therefore, drew a great ditch and stout rampart fotified with a great number of towers erected on it from sea to sea [z]." Nor has it any other name than Vallum in Antoninus and the Notitia, and it is called in British Guall Sever. In confirmation of this let us hear Ethelwerd [a] the oldest writer after Bede, speaking of Severus. "He drew a ditch in the island aforementioned crossways from sea to sea, and built within it a wall with towers and battlements." He afterwards [b] calls it Fossa Severia, Severus' ditch, as do the antient Saxon Annals [c], [Severus Brytenland mid dic forgyrd fram sea oth sea], q.d. Severus inclosed Britain with a dike from sea to sea; and others of later date, [Severus on Brytene gethorht theal of turfum fram sea to sea.] Severus in Britain made a wall of turf from sea to sea. Malmesbury [d] also calls it "the famous and well-known ditch." In which place, near 200 years after, was built a wall of stone, of which hereafter. {marginal = Lands, why granted to the commanders along the borders.; Original of feudal tenures. / land tenure; feudal tenure} When Eutropius makes the length of this wall 35 miles, Victor 32, and other writers 132 [e], I suspect some error has crept into the numbers. For the island is not so broad hereabouts, even allowing all the winding ascents and descents of the wall. But if we reduce these to Italian miles, we shall find them a little more than 80, as rightly given by Spartianus. This fortification seems in a few years to have been neglected. But when the emperor Alexander Severus, as we read in Lampridius [f], "divided among the officers and soldiers on the borders only, the lands taken from the enemy to be theirs in perpetuity provided their heirs continued in the service, and never to become the property of private persons, supposing they would be more attentive to their duty if the lands they defended were their own:" this passage [g] deserves observation, as from hence we may derive the feudal tenure or a species of fiefs: the Romans then advancing beyond the wall, and erecting and fortifying stations in the enemy's country, carried the bounds of the empire again to Bodotria, till driven back presently after to Severus's wall by the barbarians, who were continually raising one disturbance after another. Dioclesian took particular care to maintain these bourns, and when under him the command in Britain ws granted to Carausius, as a fitter person to act against the warlike nations, he repaired the Praetentura between Glota and Bodotria, as will be mentioned in its place. Constantine the Great is charged with having first neglected this frontier. For thus Zosimus [h]: "The Roman empire being by the care of Dioclesian well fortified in all its frontiers with cities, castles, and towns, and all the forces quartered in them, it was impossible for the barbarians to pass them, soldiers being ready to oppose them everywhere. These garrisons Constantine suppressed, and placed the greatest part of the troops which he removed from the frontier in towns that wanted no garrisons; leaving the frontiers to be harrassed by the barbarians without defence, burdening with the plague of soldiers towns that were quiet and orderly, by which many are depopulated, and the soldiery themselves enervated by theatrical amusements and pleasure. In short, to say the whole in one word, he laid the foundation and seeds of the present decline of the state [i]." {marginal = About A.D. 367. / Theodosius} This tract between the Clusurae or Praetenturae Theodosius, father of the emperor Theodosius, so entirely recovered, that he rebuilt the cities, garrisoned the castle, secured the frontier with troops and lines, and restored it so much to its original state, 212.q -- Not. in Ant. Itin. p.621. 212.r -- V. Sev. c.18. p.354. 212.s -- P. c.21. 212.t -- VIII. c.19. 32 Horsl. 61, 62. owing to its being written LXXXII or V. and the L. omitted, or a C. added. Ib. 212.u -- VII. 17. 212.x -- c.22. p.263. Salmasius copies it Post murum aut vallum, but Horsley, p.62. prefers the original reading, implying that the stone wall was built near the turf one, but not on the same foundation. Gale reads murum apud Walton. MS. n. 212.y -- He separated and secured it [mid dice & mid eofth thealle], with a ditch and an earth wall, says Alfred. So also, c.12. 212.z -- H.E. I. 5. 212.a -- I. p.474. Ed. Franc. 212.b -- Ubi sup. 212.c -- A.D.189. So Wheeloc's copy, but the Cambrdge MS. and Gibson's edition, p.7. from the Cotton. [Severus gethorhte theall of turfum & breden theal than on ufon fram sae to sae.]] 212.d -- De gestis reg. I. c.1. 212.e -- See before. 212.f -- v. Alex. Sev. c.58. nec unquam ad privatos pertinerent. 212.g -- See Casaubon's note on the passage. 212.h -- B. 2. 212.i -- Ammina. Marcellin. xxxviii. that Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (213) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = VALENTIA.; Praetentura 5.; The wall between Edenborough frith and Dunbritton frith.; About A.D. 410.; Soldiers stationed along the wall.; A stone wall.; Praetentura 6. / Valentia; roman wall no.5; roman wall no.6} that it had a regular governor, and was afterwards called VALENTIA, in honour of the emperor Valentinian *. Theodosius, the son, when by his valour he had obtained the empire, took due care of the frontier, appointing that the magister officiorum should give an account yearly to the emperor of the condition of the soldiery, castles, and lines. But when the Roman affairs began to be evidently on the decline, the Picts and Scots breaking through the turf wall at Bodotria, ravaged this country in a dreadful manner; a Roman legion under Gallio of Ravenna, was sent to their relief †, who, after repulsing the barbarians, being recalled to defend Gaul, advised the Britans (to borrow the words of Gildas [k] and Bede [l]), "to erect a wall cross the island between the two seas for a defence to keep out the enemy, and so returned home in great triumph. The islanders setting about this wall as they were ordered, did not employ stone so much as sods, having no person fit for the work, by which means they made a wall of no use." "For being," as Gildas observes, "raised by the common people without a leader, of sods instead of stones, it did no good." Of the place where this was erected Bede proceeds thus [m]: "They made it between two straits or bays of the sea for some thousand miles, that where the water ceased to be a defence there the wall might secure the frontier from the inroads of the enemy." Such a wall Marcellinus tells us [n] carried on a for a great length, defended Assyria from foreign invasion; and, at this day, the Chinese, according to Osorius [o], defend their vallies and plains against the Tattars by walls. "Of this work then raised, i.e. a very broad a high wall, evident traces still remain. For it begins about two miles from the monastery Abercurvinig to the east in a place called in the Pictish language Penvahel, but in English Penveltun, and running west ends at the city Alcluith. But their antient enemies no sooner saw the Roman soldiers gone, but they came in ships, broke down the frontier, destroyed all that came in their way,cutting down and trampling on all they met with like ripe corn, and overrun the whole country. Embassadors upon this were again sent to Rome to implore assistance in moving strains, that their wretched country might not be utterly ruined, and the name of a Roman province, which had so long done them honour, be lost and rendered contemptible by the barbarity of foreign nations. Again a legion was sent, which coming unexpectedly in Autumn made a great slaughter of the enemy, drove beyond the arms of the sea all that could escape, who before used every year to carry off their booty beyond these arms without any troops to oppose them." The Romans now retired to Severus's wall, and per lineam valli (as it is expressed in the Notitia ‡, written about the end of the reign of Theodosius the younger), i.e. along the length of the wall on both sides within and without, planted in proper stations five troops of horse with their praefects, fifteen cohorts with their tribunes, one Numerus and one Cuneus: all which have been or will be pointed out in their proper places. Bede [p] proceeds to give this account of the times that followed. "The Romans then told the Britans that they could no longer encumber themselves with such troublesome expeditions for their defence, but advised them to take up arms themselves, and risk encounters with the enemy, who might possibly have the advantage over them merely through their own inactivity. The Romans further thinking it a piece of service to their allies, whom they were going to abandon, drew a wall of strong stone strait from sea to sea, between the cities erected there for fear of the enemy, where Severus had formerly raised his wall." I shall here subjoin the words of Gildas [q], from whom Bede borrowed the above. "The Romans immediately run a wall, not like the former, at public and private expence, by the assistance of the wretched natives, in their usual style of building, strait from sea to sea between the cities erected there for fear of the enemy." Now hear Bede again [r]: "This wall, so famous and visible to this day, they built at public and private expence, assisted by the Britans, eight feet broad and twelve high, in a strait line from east to west [s], as may be seen to this day." From which words of Bede we see a certain ingenious writer [t] shut his own eyes when he charged two others with being blind, and so warmly contends against Boetius and other Scotish writers, that Severus's wall was in Scotland. For does not Bede after speaking of the wall at Abercurving in Scotland expressly say, that the wall was built of strong stone where Severus built his wall, and where was that stone wall unless on this spot between Tinemouth and the frith of Eden? Where then was Severus's wall? Here are still such strong traces of the wall that one may follow its track, and, in the wastes as they are called, I myself have seen large pieces of it running a great way, wanting only the battlements. {marginal = Castle steeds.; Chesters.; Areani Exploratrores. / Castlesteads; mile castles; roman forts} I have seen its track running in high hills in an extraordinary manner, and then coming down to levels, where the country is more open, having a broad deep ditch in front without, now filled up in many places, and within an agger or military way, but greatly interrupted. It had a number of towers or castles, a mile asunder, called Castle steeds, and within small fortified towns, now called Chesters, whose foundations are visible, of a square form, and towers between them, in which the soldiers were stationed to awe the barbarians, and the Areani had their posts till displaced by Theodosius before-mentioned for their treachery. "These kind of men were of antient institution, their business being (according to Amm. Marcellinus [u]) to scout about for a considerable distance on both sides, and give notice to our commanders of any disturbances among the neighbouring nations." So that those who established them seem to have followed the advice of that person [x] who addressed a treatise of the art of war to Theodosius and his sons. "Among the advantages to the state must be reckoned a care for frontiers on every side, whose security is best provided for by a number of castles. So that they should be erected at the distance of every 213.* -- Blondus. 213.† -- Codex Theodosii. 213.‡ -- Alciat calls it Theodosii Breviarium. 213.k -- § 14. p.13. 213.l -- I. 12. 213.m -- Ib. 213.n -- XXIII. 6. 213.p -- Ubi sup. 213.q -- Ubi sup. 213.r -- Ib. 213.s -- Lineasque & turres per intervalla collocant, ut hodie est, &c. Fordun ex Beda. Gale MS. n. 213.t -- Buchannan. See also Smith's Bede, p.50, note 1. 213.u -- XXVIII. c.3. See Introd. p.lix. note B. 213.x -- [blank] "mile Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (214) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = A pipe to convey the alarm.; Cornage. / alarm pipes; horns} "mile with a strong wall and stout towers, which fortifications the attention and care of the owners of the adjoining lands will erect without charge to the public, keeping watch and ward of country people [y] in them, that the repose of the provinces may remain secure within this circuit as it were of garrisons." The inhabitants say a brass pipe articially set in the the wall run all along between each tower and castle (of which they have occasionally found pieces), that whatever was spoken through it at one tower was conveyed immediately to the next, to the third, and so on to all without interruption, to give notice where the enemy's attack was to be apprehended. Such a wondeful story Xiphilin [z] tells from Dio in the life of Severus about the towers of Byzantium. But the wall being now ruined and no brass pipe left, many persons hold lands and estates hereabouts of our kings by Cornage [a] as out lawyers speak, viz. to give an alarm of invasion to the neighbourhood by sounding a horn, which some suppose derived from the antient Roman practice. "For they were bound to march on the king's order with an army against Scotland," as the records express it, "in the advance guard in going and in the reregarde in returning." {marginal = The track of the wall. / The Wall, line} But to follow the track of the wall more exactly. It begins at BLATUM BULGIUM or Bulness on the Irish sea, and proceeds along Eden frith by Burgh upon sands to LUGUVALLUM or Carlisle, where it crosses the Ituna or Eden. Thence it runs on above the river Irthing, crossing the little meandering river Cambecke where are great remains of a fort. After crossing the rivers Irthing and Poltrosse it enters Northumberland, and continuing among the chains of mountains along the river called South Tine (except where the river North Tine makes an interruption in it, where was antiently a bridge), advances quite to the German ocean, at (sic) will be shown when we come to Northumberland. {marginal = invasion; Scots; Picts} This wonderful structure could not, however, keep off the enemy. But upon the Romans quitting Britain, the Picts and Scots suddenly assaulting the wall, pulled the garrisons out with hooks, broke down the fortifications, and carried their ravages far and wide over Britain, then torn to pieces by intestine broils, and harrassed by a dreadful famine. But let Gildas the Britan, who lived not long after, describe to the reader the calamaties and miseries of those deplora- times. "No sooner were the Romans returned, but there rose up in curraughs [b], which conveyed them across the Stitican [c] vale, black swarms of vermine, cursed troops of Scots and Picts, different in manners, but agreeing in the same thirst of blood, &c. as if the warm sunshine and fine weather invited them out of their narrow holes: and being informed of the departure of our benefactors, and emboldened by their refusal to return, they made themselves masters of all the northern extremity of the country quite up to the wall. On this last was stationed an idle army unfit for fighting, disabled by their fears, and never stirring out of their places by night or day. Weapons armed with hooks were incessantly employed to drag the msierable townspeople off the wall, and dash them against the ground. In this respect this sudden death was an advantage to them, that by such an exit they escaped the approaching miserable ends of their brethren and families. In short, the cities and the high wall were abandoned, and they betook themselves to flight and retreat, dispersed up and down in a more desperate condition than ever. The enemy followed them close with ravages, slaughter, and aggravated cruelties; and the wretched natives were torn to pieces by their enemies as lambs by butchers; their residence in the country was like that of so many wild beasts. For they did not keep their pillaging hands off the small stock of provision that would have supported the miserable inhabitants for a short time, and the calamaties from abroad were increased by discontents at home, so that by these ravages the whole country was deprived of the support of life, except the resource of hunting." {marginal = The prudent contrivance of the wall by the Romans.; Medicinal plants. / medicinal plants} It is worthy observation, that as the Romans prudently raised this wall in such a manner that it had within it like a second defence two large rivers the Tine and the Irthing, which are but a very little way asunder; so the cunning of the barbarians first opened their principle inlet between these two rivers, where they had free entrance into this province without the obstruction of any river, as will be presently shewn in Northumberland. I purposely omit the vulgar reports about this wall, but cannot conceal from the reader this circumstance, which I had from persons of credit. A fixed tradition remains in the neighbours, that the Roman garrisons on the borders planted here up and down for their own use, many plants good for curing wounds. Hence some pretenders to surgery [d] in Scotland resort here every summer to collect plants, whose virtues they have learned by some practice, and extoll them as of sovereign efficacy. 214.y -- vigiliae & agrariae. 214.z -- lxxiv. fin. Reimar understood it of an echo in these particular seven towers. 214.a -- Drenge, Sax. a pipe. Hence Drenges and Drengagium. Indices speculatores. Lib. Rub. Scaccar. Gale MS. n. but the idea of Cornage here misleads him; for the [Dreng - Saxon script] is miles, Lye; see also Spelm. in v. See before, p.151. 214.b -- The highland Scots still call their boats caroches. 214.c -- The Paris edition has Scythicam, by which probably is meant the Scottish sea. See Mr. Pegge's happy restoration of this passage in Archaeologia, V. P.272. 214.d -- Empirici chirurgi. Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (215) {marginal = The Wall, ADDITIONS} ADDITIONS. Quanta Caledonis attollet gloria campos Cum tibi longaevus referet trucis incola terrae Hic suetus dare jura parens: hoc cespite turmas Affari; Nitidas speculas castellaque longe Aspicis? Ille dedit, cinxitque haec moenia fossa, Belligeris hic dona deis, haec tela dicavit. Cernis adhuc titulos: hunc ipse vacantibus armis Induit, hunc regi tapuit thoraca Britanno. Statius v Sylvar. {marginal = roman wall no.1; Agricola's Wall} Dio calls the wall sometimes barely Τειχος, and defines it Τειχοσ το διοιζον τας Βιρεγαννου χαι τα των Ρωμαιων σραγοπεδα [a]. All that Herodian says of it is, that Severus's army crossed the forts and earth-works (ρευμαγα, (l. ρυμαγα or ερευμαγα), και χωμαγα τησ Ρωμαιων αρχης), that formed the frontier of the Roman empire here. What Mr. Camden calls the first Praetentura, and supposes to have been made by Agricola, was only a chain of forts formed and garrisoned by him in his third expedition [b]. Praetenturae & stationes agrariae are mentioned by Ammianus Marcellinus xxxi. 8. [c] Sir John Clerk writing to R. Gale about this wall, concludes with these words: "After all, I cannot but take notice of two things with regard to this wall that have given me great matter of speculation. The first is, why it was made at all, for it could never be a proper defence, and perhaps at Boulnesse less than at any other place, since our barbarian forefathers on the north side could pass over at low water, or if the sea was then higher or deeper than it is now, could make their attacks from the north-east side by land. The second is, why the Scots historians, vain enough by nature, have not taken more pains to describe this wall, a performance which did their ancestors more honour than all the trifling stories put together, which they have transmitted to us. 'Tis true, the Romans walled out humanity from them; but 'tis as certain they thought the Caledonians a very formidable people whem they at so much labour and cost built this wall as before they had made a vallum between Forth and Clyde [d]." {marginal = The Wall, structure; aggers; ditches; military ways} Hadrian's vallum consists of a principal vallum or agger on the brink of the ditch; the ditch on the north side of the vallum, another agger on the south side of the vallum and about five paces from it, which I call the fourth agger; and a large agger on the north side of the ditch called the north agger. This I suppose was the military way to the antient praetentura of stations, and it must have served for a military way to this work also, or it is plain there was none attending it. The fourth agger I suppose has been either made for an inner defence in case the enemy might beat them from any part of the principal vallum, or to protect the soldiers from any sudden attack from the provincial Britans. It is in general somewhat smaller than the principal vallum, though in some places as large. These four works keep all the way a constant regular parallelism one to another [e]. {marginal = Severus's Wall} Severus's wall is called both murus and vallum in the Latin historians, but it is nowhere said or implied that it was only of earth, as it is of the other two; so that the stone wall, of which so much is still remaining, has been undeniably the wall of Severus, built near Hadrian's turf one, but not on the same foundation, which is certain matter of fact and worth the historian's remark. This may be one reason why some have supposed that Severus only repaired Hadrian's vallum, concluding from the nearness of the two works that they must have been done by the same hand and at the same time. It was finished before Severus was returned to York, consequently soon after the peace was concluded. Its date may be fixed to the year 208 from the inscription on the rock over the river Gelt [f], which agrees with Cassiodorus' Chronicon [g]. To this work belongs a paved military way, which has every where attended it on the south side, though not always parallel to it. It sometimes coincides with Hadrian's north agger, but whenever this has been too ruinous or otherwise inconvenient, the new way always accompanied Severus's wall, and came up near to every castellum on it, and has therefore no doubt been made at the same time and directly for its service. Someting like a lesser military way near the wall for the convenience of small particular passages from turret to turret appeared in one or two places. There is also belonging to this work a large ditch on the north side of the wall, but nothing that can be considered as a sufficient proof of a north agger, though sometimes the rubbish thrown out of the ditch may raise the round near it a little and form somewhat like a glacis [h]. {marginal = roman forts; mile castles} In order to form a general idea of the wall and its original state, it will necessary to have a knowledge of the castles. All of them, except one near Harlow hill, which I suppose to have been built before the wall, are 66 feet square, the wall itself forming their north side. The intervals between them are not always the same, but, except two or three at the east end of the wall, always less than half a mile, i.e. from six furlongs and an half to seven. They are constantly called Castle steeds by the country-people, and the castra stativa or aestiva usually Chesters. These Castella seem to have stood closest where the stations are widest, and are by some modern authors called mile castles or milliary castella. In the last edition of Camden's Britannia they are by mistake said to be of a very different shape and size: perhaps the remains of two or three castle steeds they do not join to the wall, and of one that does may have oc- 215.a -- lxxii. c.8. p.820. Horsl. 116. 215.b -- Horsl. 40. 98. Tac. v. Agr. c.23. 215.c -- MS. Gale. 215.d -- Ap. 19. 1739. Reliq. Galean. p.332. 215.e -- Horsl. 117. 215.f -- See p.203. 215.g -- Horsl. 61-67. 215.h -- Ib. 118. casioned Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (216) {marginal = The Wall, dimensions} [oc]casioned this error. There may have been also some exploratory castles belonging to Hadrian's work, though there be little appearance of such at present., unless the small remains at Chappel houses near Newburn, and those near Heddon on the wall, which we call Castle steeds, be of this sort. The smaller turrets have been more generally and intirely ruined than the castella, so that it is hard to find any three of them together with any certainty. But there were probably four of them between every two castella, and they were about four feet square. This short distance makes the alarm-pipe as unecessary as it it is fanciful and fictitious. There have also been 18 larger forts or stations on or near the wall, at about four miles asunder. The wall generally runs on the top or ridge of the higher ground, keeping a descent on the north or enemy's side, and thereby has a greater strength and better prospect. Hadrian's vallum differs in this respect, but both seem to have been carried on pretty much in a strait line from station to station. Where Watling-street passes the wall there is a visible track of a square gate, and the ditch belonging to the wall manifestly goes about the other half of it, the inner half being so visible. This gate seems to be of much the same size with the castles 60 feet square, only these are wholly within the wall but the gate within and without. The other two military ways seem to have crossed at the station of Caernarvon and Stanwicks. The thickness of the wall is from seven feet to seven feet four inches at the foundation, probably a Roman pace and an half near Boulness on the Solway frith, where the tides come up to it it measures nine feet. The military way measured constantly about 17 feet, perhaps three and an half Roman paces. The ditch of Hadrian's vallum is near nine feet deep and eleven over and the sides sloping. That of Severus was wider and deeper. Hadrian's wall is of earth sometimes mixed with stone. Severus's of free stone, sometimes formed on oak piles, the inner filling of stones pretty large, broad, and thin, set on edge obliquely in mortar [i]. Severus's wall reaches at each end beyond Hadrian's [k]. If we divide the wall into four equal parts, the one and three quarters from the east end seem to have been built by the Leg. II. Aug. and the two and last by the Leg. VI. Victrix. Hadrian's ended east at Newcastle, and Severus's at Cousin's house, and at Boulness west [l]. It had on it eighteen castella or stations. {marginal = Mr Horsley's account of The Wall} The following account of the present state of Hadrian's vallum, and the wall of Severus is taken from Mr. Horsley's Britannia Romana: c.9. p.135. {marginal = The Wall, state of preservation} "I shall reduce these remains to four degrees of appearance: As to Hadrian's vallum, I would call it the highest or fourth degree, if in any part the present state could be supposed to be nearly equal to what it originally was, but this I think never is the case; the first and lowest degree is, when there are any certain visible remains or vestiges, though not very large; and the second and third are the intertmediate degrees, as they approach nearer to the highest or lowest. But in the stone wall I call that the fourth degree, where any of the original regular courses are remaining, and usually name the number of courses. Where the original stones remain upon the spot, though not in their regular order, I call it the third degree; where the rubbish is high and distinct, though covered with earth, or grown over with grass, I call it the second; and the first is where there are any remaining vestiges of the wall though faint and obscure. {marginal = I. SEGDUNUM. / Segedunum} "Severus's wall has manifestly terminated in a square fort or station, above a furlong to the east of the mansion called COUSIN'S HOUSE. The ruins of a Roman station and town at this place are still very discernible; though it has all been plowed, and is now a very rich meadow. The stones and rubbish of the buildings are levelled, and covered with earth and grass; but the ramparts of the fort may be distinctly traced out, both they and the ditch being visible at least in one degree almost quite round. There are very evident remains of two turrets at the western and eastern entries to the station, and of another at the south-west corner. The west entry has been close to the wall, and the eastern one directly opposite to it. The fort has been about 140 yards, or perhaps six chains, square, and so the contents of it above three acres and an half. About sixty yards of the western and eastern sides lie without, or to the north of the line of the wall, and 80 within it; so that the wall falls upon the sides of the station, not far from the middle of them. The south rampart of this fort is about three quarters of a furlong from the river side, and runs along the brow of the hill, or at the head of a considerable descent from thence to the river. There have been ruins of buildings on this part, and to the south-west of the fort; but they are now so levelled and covered, that little evidence appears above ground; yet the stones and remains of rubbish are easily discovered when the surface is anywhere removed: and some of these inequalties in the surface, which usually arise from ruins, yet remain, and may easily be perceived to be hillocks of stones or rubbish. Mr. Gordon supposes that the wall itself forms almost a right angle, and then is continued down to the side of the river [m]. But it is the western rampart of the station which makes that angle with the wall. Nor does this rampart reach to the river, though 'tis likely the town, or buildings without the fort, may have extended so far. On the north side of the station there are some crooked risings and settlings of the ground, which at first view appeared to me not unlike a round fort or tower, projecting from the station with a triple rampart and ditch. The two closes in which the Roman town and station have stood, are called Well-lawes, perhaps it had been Wall-lawes; there being other instances wherein the names well and wall have been changed one for the other. If the name lawes be owing to the rising ground only, the termination lawes or lowes, which signifies hills, so far correspond to the Roman name Segdunum: but as there are yet two distinct tumuli remaining near the Beehouses, and not far from these closes: I rather think that from these and a supposition that the ruins of the station and buildings about it were of the same nature, these closes may have borrowed this name; a lawe or lowe being one of those names by which such tumuli are frequently expressed [n]. There is one remarkable ruinous heap in the south-west corner of the western close, which is supposed to have been an antient building, perhaps a temple; though it might be mistaken for a tumulus. There are some inscriptions 216.i -- Horsley, p.118, 119, 120, 121, 122, 123. 216.k -- Ib. 127. 216.l -- Ib. 130. 134. 216.m -- Itin. Septent. p.70. 216.n -- The field, in which the station at South Shields has stood, is called the Lawe. Formerly it went by the name of the Burrough meadow. and Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (217) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = roman inscriptions; roman altars} and other roman stones with an altar now at Cousin's house, which must have belonged to this station, or to this end of the wall {marginal = The Wall, line of} "The wall having left the station passes on to a stile in the hedge which incloses the more westerly Well-lawe; and is for this space (near an hundred and fifty yards) in the second degree, the ditch only in the first. At the stile it makes a very small turn, still keeping in the main towards the west, though inclining a little to the south. It passes through the outer court of Cousin's house, and on the north side of the mansion itself; the wall at this part being only in the first degree, though the ditch be in the second. The wall and ditch in the same state pass close by the Beehouses on the north side. {marginal = Milecastle 1; Walker; Byker hill} "A little west of these Beehouses has been a castellum, the foundation and remains of which are very visible. It is 22 yards or 66 foot square, which appears to have been the stated measure of all these castella. This, which is the first of them on the east side, is about three furlongs distant from the end of the wall; and has been, like all the rest, built on or close to the wall; but wholly within it, or on the south side. From hence the wall passes by Walker or Wall-kier to Byker hill, both it and the ditch being for this space in the second degree, and keeping all the way within the inclosures. Walker, no doubt, has its name from the wall, and perhaps from the word kier, which in the present highland tongue (as I remember) signifies a town, as caer does in the British. {marginal = Milecastle 2; Ewsburn} "Between Walker and Byker hill, upon an easy ascent, are the visible remains of another castellum, of the common stated dimensions. The distance between this and the last is about an English measured mile and half a furlong, which is somewhat more than the usual distance. From Byker hill the wall descends towards Ewsburn, being in the first, and the ditch mostly in the second degree. As the wall goes down this descent, it keeps within the fence on the south side of the highway, which seems sometimes to have been repaired with the stones of it. {marginal = Milecastle 3} "At the head of Ewsburn [o] bank, that is the bank on the east side of the village, is the visible foundation of another castellum, conveniently situated for prospect as well as the last. And the distance between these two is exactly the same as before. There are also in this part of the track of the wall (I mean from the end of it to Ewsburn) some ruinous heaps, which may probably have been remains of some of the smaller exploratory turrets, that have been placed all the way upon the wall. But these ruins are scarce distinct enough to be relied on. {marginal = Redbarns} "From Ewsburn to the Red-barns the wall is scarce to be discerned; it passes through the inclosure, close by the hedge on the south side of the highway. The stony part of the highway itself between the mill and the Red-barns can't have been the wall; because this is on the north of the ditch, which is visible in one degree or more. These stones may have been taken from the wall to repair the road. The wall seems to have passed through the mansion house of the Red-barns, between the court and the garden. The ditch is visible in the first degree or second to the west of the Red-barns, not far from the walls of Newcastle, bearing full upon the castle there, and Pandon-gate in the way to it. But this is the last appearance of any part of the work on the east side of this town. "I could no where from the end of the wall to Newcastle discern any certain vestiges of the military way. Nor the Red-barns, and upon the descent from Byker hill to Ewsburn, I saw the track along which I believed it had gone; but the appearance is so very faint and obscure, that I lay no great stress upon my conjecture; nor should I have observed it, had I not known before, that it must have been thereabouts. "As for Hadrian's vallum, I could no where in all this space discern the least trace of it or anything belonging to it; nor did I ever hear of any traditionary account of its having been here. {marginal = Newcastle upon Tyne} "The distance from the station at the end of the wall to St. Nicholas's church in Newcastle is exactly three measured miles and five furlongs. And in this space there are three castella, all visible; that which should have been next in course, is lost in the station at NEWCASTLE. {marginal = 2. PONS AELII. / Pons Aelii; Benwell Hill; Benwell} "No appearance of either of the walls can be expected, as far as the buildings of this great town extend; but as soon as they are well ended, some faint vestiges of both, or of what has belonged to them, begin to shew themselves. For just at the end of the houses without Westgate, and on the south side of the street or highway, what I take to be Hadrian's ditch is for a short space pretty visible; and I believe the raised foot-way there has been upon the north agger. For a little space again every thing relating to Hadrian's vallum does quite disappear, till near the quarry house some faint marks of the ditch, and north agger, begin to appear, but chiefly of the latter. And this state of the vallum extends to Benwel fort. {marginal = Quarry House} "As to Severus's wall, little or nothing relating to it can be discovered between the town and the quarrry house. There seemed to me, at first sight, to be some visible remains both of the wall and ditch, in a small field near the quarry house, between it and the town, and on the north side of the highway which comes from Westgate. But upon examining them more narrowly, they appeared not so distinct as I imagined. A quarry, which has been wrought hereabouts, and from whence the house has its name, does very much perplex this affair. Yet I still saw reason to believe, that the wall had passed through this field. {marginal = castellum; Elswick Windmill} "I thought there were some visible remains of a castellum just behind the quarry house, and the line of the wall appeared to go through the midst of the house. And, as I think the walls converged a very little before, so Severus's wall has made a very small turn hereabout, in order to come up to the north rampart of the station at Newcastle, and to get to a sufficient distance from Hadrian's vallum. The castellum at the quarry house is conveniently placed for prospect, and is the only one that is visible between Newcastle and the next station. By the distance there should have been another, but it is quite demolished. From the quarry house to Elswick windmill, Severus's wall is but in the first degree; but from hence to the fort on Benwel hill, the appearance of the ditch is frequently very distinct, and the track of the wall (which keeps much upon the high road) pretty certain. "From the station at Newcastle to Benwel hill is 217.o -- This is a rivulet so called, the true name of which is perhaps Ouse-bourne. nearly Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (218) {continues last paragraph}nearly two miles and a furlong, and no inscriptions have been discovered in this space; at least none now remain, nor even the remembrance of any. {marginal = 3. CONDERCUM. / Condercum; Benwell Hill; Rudchester; Denton Hall; Milecastle 8?} "Upon BENWEL hill are the plain remains of a Roman station. And I make not doubt but that to the south of it there have been, as usual, some outbuildings, though now demolished and leveled by the plough. The situation of it is high, and the prospect considerable. The ramparts are large and distinct in the second degree, but the ditch scarce to be discerned. Hadrian's vallum seems to have fallen in with the south side of it, and Severus's wall strikes upon the east and west sides, so as to leave three chains to the north and six to the south. But there is no appearance of the wall and its ditch being continued through the fort, though Mr. Gordon has so represented it [p]. And at Rutchester, the next fort to this, where the wall also strikes upon the side of the fort, both the wall and ditch are plainly discontinued. There are stones in the road that now crosses this fort, but these seem only to have been taken out of the ruins to repair the highway. The inscriptions found here will be mentioned in their proper place. Severus's wall and ditch in going down from hence to Denton continue much in the same state as before. But Hadrian's work on this side begin to appear more conspicuous. Both the walls pass to the north of the hall and village of Benwel, which is not improbably thought to have its name from the northern word ben, signifying within, and wel for wall, as being seated within, or on the south side of the wall. From Denton to the Chapel houses both the walls and their ditches are almost all the way visible and distinct, generally in the second degree. Over against west Denton hall there seemed to be the visible remains of a castellum; and somewhat like the ruins of a turret, not very far from it. {marginal = Chapel Houses; Milecastle 9} "Near the Chapel houses about a furlong south from Severus's wall, and less from Hadrian's, are somewhat like the ruins of a rampart. It is called the Castle-steeds, the name usually given to those castella that are regularly placed along Severus's wall. But this (besides its being at some distance from the wall which the other never are) appears to have been of a quite different form and dimensions. For it is about four chains long, with an interval in the middle, that looks like a gate, and so makes it appear very like the south rampart of a small fort. But if there have been ramparts on the other sides, no traces of them appear at present. The prospect here, especially to the south, is very considerable. Perhaps it has been an exploratory tower belonging to Hadrian's work, and prior to Severus's; and so neglected in his time. The usual castellum belonging to Severus's wall is about a furlong west from the Chapel houses, and visible there; so that the other can neither be one of these, nor intended to supply the place of one. From the name Chapel houses one would expect to find some ruinous chapel there: and I should have suspected these ruins to have been somewhat of that nature, if the name Castle-steeds had not determined against it. {marginal = Walbottle; Milecastle 10} "From Chapel houses to Walbottle [q] both walls and ditches are pretty visible, generally in the second degree, and continue so to Newburn deen. But on the descent from the Chapel houses to Walbottle, Hadrian's north agger becomes visible in the second or third degree, and holds so for the most part to Newburn-deen. Between Walbottle and this deen is a castellum still very visible. And from the deen to Throcklow, Hadrians' vallum and ditch are discernible, but not very large, in the first degree or more, and Severus's wall and ditch in the second or more. {marginal = Throcklow; Milecastle 11} Over against Throcklow, in a convenient high place, there seems to be the ruins of another castellum; but near the village the vallum is very obscure. From Throcklow to Heddon on the wall, Severus's wall and ditch are very conspicuous, each of them mostly in the third degree, and Hadrian's vallum and ditch in the second. The north agger is also discernible for part of the way, and near Heddon it is very considerable, being in the second or third degree. {marginal = Milecastle 12} "Before we come to Heddon, there is on the north side of the wall another place of the same nature with that at Chapel houses, and called likewise Castle-steeds. The remains are very confused, and as it is altogether on the north of the walll, and detached a little from it, I believe it has been somewhat of a castellum prior to the wall, and neglected after the building of it. The prospect of this place is very good, which makes it the more likely to have been of the exploratory kind. However there seems to have been an usual castellum in Severus's wall, very near to these ruins; which is farther proof that the other has not been used after the wall was erected. It seems to have been twice as large as one of Severus's castella, and yet not large enough for a station. Three sides, the north, east, and west, may be traced out, but the other is entirely leveled. {marginal = Heddon on the wall; Milecastle 13; Villa ad Murum} "Near Heddon on the wall somewhat appeared like Severus's military way, pretty near to his wall. But I think it rather the stones and ruins of the wall, and that the military ways have here coincided, because the north agger is so large, though in a ploughed field. Not far from this place, there have been some remarkable tumuli. The village Heddon lawes, which stands upon a hill, has no doubt had its name from such tumuli. There is yet remaining one very great heap of stones, besides other tumuli, and a remarkable one farther to the east called Dewly lawe, with a smaller one near it. The whole hill is like the ruins of a quarry, but curious and worth the seeing. If regard be had to the distance of 12 miles from the sea, Heddon on the wall would seem to be Bede's villa ad murum, and not either Wall's-end or Wall-town [r]. From Heddon to Rutchester both the wall and their ditches are distinct, mostly in the second or third degree. And a little before we come to Rutchester, Hadrian's north agger is distinct in about the second degree. Here is another castellum, the remains of which are very visible, and an oval fort (though I think not Roman) near it. "In this space there are six visible castella in a series without interruption, and the constant exact measure between them is six furlongs and three quarters; and the whole distance between the two stations, six measured miles and three quarters. The two castella that have been next to the fort at Benwel hill, have no visible remains. {marginal = 4. VINDOBALA. / Vindobala; Rudchester} "At the fort at RUTCHESTER, Severus's wall runs 218.p -- Itin. Sept. p.71. 218.q -- If botle be a Saxon termination, signifying the same as by, ham, ton, &c. 'tis evident that Walbottle near Newburn is no more than Walltown, and that the story about the battle there, supposed to occasion the name, is pure imagination. 218.r -- Camden, p.1055, Gibson's Edit. and the Survey of Newcastle, p.8. upon Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (219) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = Rudchester} upon the middle of the east rampart, but is not continued through the station; whereas Hadrian's seems to have gone a chain or two to the south of it. This fort has been very considerable, as the ruins of it at present are very remarkable. On the north side there have been six turrets, one at each corner, one on of each side the gate, and one between each corner, and those adjoining to the gate. On the east and west sides there is also a tower between the gate and the angle, in that part of the fort that is on the north of the wall; but 'tis doubtful whether there has been the same number of towers in that part that lies within the wall. At present, however, they are not so distinct. The ramparts of this fort are still very visible, being in the second degree or more on every side. The ditch is but faint, and scarce discernible on the east side, being leveled in the highway. On the other three sides it is visible. The ruins within the fort plainly appear, and the entries into it may be distinguished. If there has been a town without, which there can scarce be any doubt of; it has been as usual on the south, where the village of Rutchester now stands, and covers its ruins. "For all this space from the very beginning both the walls have kept much upon the high grounds, so as there is generally a large prospect, but oftener towards the south than the north, especially with respect to Hadrian's vallum, where one would imagine the southern prospect has been chiefly consulted. Hadrian's vallum often leaves a rising ground to the north, which Severus's wall has all along guarded against; no doubt to prevent the enemies having any advantage from thence, in case of an assault. Accordingly I observe here, that whilst Hadrian's vallum goes on for a great way in nearly a streight line, Severus's wall winds and turns a little to fetch in the eminences at High-seat and Harlow hill, which will be best understood by inspecting the map. {marginal = Milecastle 14; Milecastle 15; Harlow Hill} "From Rutchester to Harlow hill Hadrian's vallum and ditch are for the most part obscure; though both these, and the north agger too, are visible in the second degree for some part of this space. Severus's wall and ditch almost all the way are in the second and third degree, and sometimes the fourth. Between Rutchester and Harlow hill two of the square castella are very visible. "The breaks in the north agger, which are remarkable both here and in several other parts, deserve to be considered. They look like gaps made for carriages; but whether they are really for this purpose, or whether stones have been wrought out of it for paving Severus's military way, or whether they are only accidental, I shall not pretend to determine. They are oft very numerous, continued for a good space, and within thirty of forty yards (sometimes more, sometimes less) one of another. {marginal = Whitchester} "To the north-west of Rutchester is a place called Whitchester, sometimes Outchester; in Camden it is called old Winchester or Vindolana; and there are said to be some remains of a fort here, but all this seems to be a mistake. There is somewhat like the remains of an earthen rampart on one side, which added to the name make it probable, that here have been the castra aestiva of the garrison at Vindolana or Rutchester; for perhaps it has been called the Outer Chesters. It lies without or on the north side of the wall. Between Whitchester and Harlow hill is a round hill with a trench about it, which seems to have been exploratory; and by the situation one would judge it to have been antient and Roman. "The foundation of Severus's wall and breadth of it are very distinct a little to the east of Harlow hill, and measures about seven foot and four inches. I thought I saw hereabouts the ruins of two turrets; which, according to the scheme I have laid down, must have been the first and third east from the castellum at Harlow hill. Here also the military way was lately very visible (before the ground was ploughed up) pointing directly to the castellum. Hadrian's vallum just at Harlow hill is not to be discerned in any part of it, and Severus's wall too is in a great measure lost in the village. But 'tis curious here to observe the passage of Hadrian's ditch through a limestone quarry; where though nothing is to be discerned in the surface, yet below it the exact dimensions of the ditch may be taken; because that part of the quarry through which the ditch has been carried on, is now filled up with earth only, so that the shape and measure here are very plain. It is made sloping, the depth between eight and nine foot, and about 11 foot broad. At this place too I was told of a castellum, and was shewed the place where it had stood, and the foundation seems yet to appear. It has had a high situation and a large prospect. {marginal = military way} "A little west of Harlow hill Severus's miltary way begins to appear very plain, and seemed to measure about 13 foot, being distant form the wall about three chains. And this is the first undoubted appearance of this military way, which now continues for a great length very conspicuous, mostly in the second or third degree. There is no doubt but it has gone up to the castellum at Harlow hill; and where it first appears, which is but a little distance from that, it seems to have come in a streight line from it. {marginal = Milecastle 16?; Milecastle 17? Halton Sheels} "From Harlow hill, or a little west of it, to Halton-sheels, all is for the most part very conspicuous. At the usual distance from Harlow hill a castellum is visible, and about a furlong west from this the walls approach very near to each other, being not above a chain distant. Again at the usual distance another castellum appears, but somewhat obscure, and of an uncommon shape; two of the sides being about double the usual length, namely those which lie east and west; and the south side of it reaches very near the north agger. Here Severus's military way seems to cross the north agger, or rather runs upon it, there not being sufficient room for it between this and the castellum. I believe this has been one of Hadrian's exploratory castella; but the north side of it falling in exactly with the line of Severus's wall, it has been used also as a castellum by him. Here Hadrian's vallum, ditch, and north agger continue in the second and third degrees; and Severus's works mostly in three degrees, the wall sometimes in four, some of the original regular courses appearing. Hadrian's north agger is visible also some part of this way and afterwards very conspicuous; so that I wonder Mr. Gordon should imitate, that it did not appear till beyond Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (220) {continues last paragraph}beyond Walwick or between that and Carrawbrugh [s]. {marginal = Wall Houses} "Severus's military way keeps upon the north agger for a while; afterwards it passes on the side of it without running upon the top. A little after it has passed by the Wall-houses, it runs almost parallel both to the wall and the north agger, and within a few yards of the north agger; it passes also near the entries into the castella, but does not go up close to them. There seemed to be somewhat like a pavement from the entry to the way; and 'tis highly probable that there has been one, though the distance between them is but about ten yards, and sometimes less. The military way here is low, but the pavement regular. The north agger is high by intervals, but has great breaks in it, and is in the main ruinous; so that probably it required more pains and expence to level and prepare it for a pavement, than to lay a pavement quite new where they have done it. From hence every thing continues for the most part in the same state, till we come to Halton chesters; only Hadrian's north and south aggers become obscure for a small space east of this station. {marginal = Shildon} "Before we come to Halton chesters, somewhat appears that is pretty remarkable. Hadrian's vallum running full upon a little hill, turns at once round about the skirt of it, leaving the hill on the north, and thereby, one would think, rendering the vallum itself a weak defence at that part. The north agger goes close to the south side of this hill; so that they were also obliged to carry the vallum round the hill, in order to preserve the parallelism. If the north agger was the old military way, and prior to the vallum, there was nothing improper in carrying it on the south skirt of the hill; and then when the vallum came afterwards to be built (for a defence or place of retreat) they were under a kind of necessity to form it after this manner. Nor do I know how to account for this piece of management upon any other scheme than what I have already advanced. And if my supposition accounts for this conduct, this appearance does not a little confirm my scheme. Severus's military way keeps here also on the south side of the hill, and close to the north agger; but his wall passes over the north side of the hill, near the top of it; and the ditch is continued also on the north side of the hill, and appears very deep. Above a mile south-east from Halton-sheels is Shildon hill, where there is a large entrenchment of an oval figure. This, if Roman, may have served for exploration, or be castra aestiva for the station at Halton chesters. It is upon the top of the hill, the shape of which may have occasioned the oval figure of the encampment. From Rutchester to Halton chesters is a little more than seven measured miles. There are nine castella between these two stations, and all of them visible, the interval between every two of them being near upon six furlongs and a half. And it is remarkable, that as the interval between these two stations is the greatest of any upon the whole line of the wall; so the intervals between the castella are rather the least of any, excepting one single instance, for which there will be a particular reason given afterwards. {marginal = 5. HUNNUM. / Onnum; Halton Chesters; aqueduct; Watling Street Gate; Milecastle 14-21; Portgate} "At HALTON CHESTERS (as I call it from its nearness to Halton) are the remains of a station very distinct; though all our antiquaries have hitherto overlooked them. Perhaps the reason has been the irregularity of the figure; for the ruins both within and without are very considerable, and as apparent as most of the stations upon the wall. The broader part lies within the wall, and the less or narrower without it. The former they call the Chesters or Silver hill, the other the Chester close; so that both retain the name, which is a pretty sure mark of a station. And no doubt the name of Silver hill has been given to it upon account of the Roman coins found there, of which some have been found very lately. Perhaps the reason why that part without the line of the wall was not made so broad as that within, was, because there is a descent or hollow ground joining to the west side of this part, so that the work could not be carried on any farther that way without much trouble and expence; though it must be owned the Romans don't usually seemed to have valued either the one or the other. Dr. Hunter, Mr. Smith, and others, take notice of some remains at Portgate or near it. And in the new edition of Camden it is observed, that "There is at Portgate a square old tower still standing, and great ruins of old buildings [t]." But this tower has nothing in it that is Roman, being of the same form with a multitude of others that are in the north and of a much later date. And the ruins are not (that I know of) at Portgate, but at Halton, which is more than half a mile to the east of it. Hadrian's vallum seems to have fallen in with the south rampart of this fort, and Severus's wall with the north line of the inner part; but both it and the ditch are discontinued for the breadth of the narrower and outer part of the fort. There seems to have been an aqueduct to convey water to this station, from a spring on the higher ground near Watling street gate. When I rode that way, I was shewn part of it by a country-man, who said it was what the speaking trumpet was lodged in; of which fiction some account has been given in the preceding chapter. The remaining ruins of the out-buildings are to the south, and the south-east of the fort. The rampart round the fort is in the second degree, and the ditch in the first, though in some parts scarce discernible. Near Watling street gate (that is about a furlong to the east of it) is a visible castellum. And at Watling street gate there has been a square castellum half within the wall and half without, in which respect it differs from the other castella. And the part without is more visible and distinct than that which is within. "From Halton to Watling street gate, and beyond it as far as Portgate, Severus's wall and ditch are in the third degree. But Hadrian's, passing through ploughed ground, can scarce be discerned, only the ditch is visible in the first degree at the least. "After the walls have passed by Portgate (which is to the south of them) the military way becomes again very visible, [passing near Hadrian's north agger, and going to another castellum, which is also very visible; and after it has left this, it approaches again to Hadrian's north agger, and then coincides with it; after which the two continue united, till they come near the next castellum, and then Severus's military way leaves the other, and bends its course gradually towards the castellum. After it has passed this castellum, it inclines again to the north agger of Hadrian's work, and at the distance of about a furlong from the castellum falls in again with it, and so continues united with it, till it comes nigh the following 220.s -- Itin. Septent. p.74. 220.t -- P. 1054. castellum, Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (221) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = St Oswald} castellum, which is near St. Oswald. Here I suppose they have parted again for a little space. But the military way is lost in the village and inclosures from St. Oswald to Walwick. Severus's military way appears very distinct for the small spaces where it is separated from the north agger; regularly paved, but not much raised above the level of the ground. When the two are united they make a military way, very beautiful and magnificent, almost all the way in the fourth degree. And the rest both of Severus's and Hadrian's works are ample and conspicuous all this way. As for the course of Severus's military way, and its coincidiing with Hadrian's north agger, and going off from it again at every castellum; it seems very curious, and I wonder it has not been more observed. I shall have farther occasion to take notice of the same appearance again a little after. {marginal = North Tyne River} "From St. Oswald to the river of North Tine some parts or appurtenances of the walls become more faint and obscure, and some not visible at all. But yet Severus's wall is in the second degree, and the ditch in the third most of the way; and Hadrian's vallum and ditch in the second. {marginal = bridge, North Tyne} "After the wall has crossed the Tine, it comes up to another station, which I have called Walwick chesters. The distance between this and Halton chesters is near five measured miles and a quarter, and in this interval there are five visible castella, beside one that must have stood near the river Tine, but is now entirely lost. The constant distance between these castella seems to have been seven furlongs. {marginal = 6. CILURNUM / Cilurnum; Chesters} "At WALWICK CHESTERS Severus's wall falls upon the middle of the fort, and Hadrian's vallum, as usual, falls in with the south side of it. Severus's wall and ditch, being never continued through a station, are here, as in all like cases, supplied by the north rampart and ditch of the fort. The ramparts of this fort are in two degrees, and the ditch in one. The ruins of the out-buildings shew themselves between the fort and the river. There has been a considerable bridge over the river just at the fort, the foundations of which are yet visible. There are large ruins within the fort, the shape and whole dimensions of which may be seen in the draught. This fort is usually called East Chesters; though I rather chuse to call it Walwick Chesters, from the neighbouring place. Camden says it was sometimes called Silchester, or at least that Silchester was not far from it [x]. But I could not learn that either the fort itself, or any place near it, went by this name. I have been told that Ricchester in Riddesdale is sometimes called so; and I know there is a place near that station which they call the Sills, and a rivulet which they call the Sil-burn; but this is at too great a distance. In the last edition of Camden [y] both Great Chesters and Little Chesters are mentioned as being hereabouts; whereas they are both of them several miles farther west. {marginal = military way, to Carvoran} "From this station a military way has gone directly to Carrvoran. It is very visible for the greatest part of the way. The course of it will be best known by inspecting the maps. I take it to have terminated eastward at this station; for the bridge over the river has been here, and the military way is very visible as far as Newburgh, pointing towards the river and this station. I observed what I took to be some remains of it near Walwick grange; and Dr. Hunter of Durham told me, that he had made the same observations some years ago. The sepulchral stones now at Walwick grange, which were found between that place and the Chesters, seem to be a farther confirmation of this; for such monuments were often erected near their military ways. I also think the same way, or another beginning at Cambeck, was continued to Stanwicks. This military way is like a string to a bow, when the soldiers were to march directly from the station of Walwick Chesters, or from the bridge beside it, to Little Chesters, Great Chesters, Carrvoran, or any of the stations more westerly than these. If their marches were per lineam valli, this way was by much a shorter rout, than to follow the course of the military way which attends Severus's wall. And if the north agger was the antient military way from station to station, and not ruined before this was laid; yet this is still the shorter and better, if the march was not immediately from station to station, but from the bridge to any of the stations more westerly than House-steeds. Besides that it is within, or on the south side of Hadarian's vallum, and consequently when they marched along this way, they might be better secured from a northern enemy before the wall of Severus was built. And 'tis curious to observe, how in time of leisure and peace the soldiers were employed, and what works they performed, in order to facilitate their march when they should be called out against the enemy. A little advantage by making the marching rout easier or shorter, upon such an occasion, was procured at the expence of great labour, when they were disengaged from other affairs. And 'twas both a benefit to them, and a piece of good discipline to keep them employed in such works. And it was their custom, where the way was longer than needed, to lay another shorter and streighter, Dr. Plot has observed from Galen [z]. And 'tis plain that this way was designed for the use of the wall, and the stations upon it; for it leads to no other military way, but that which belongs to the walls: so that the stations upon this way, or between it and the wall, are rightly placed among the stations per lineam valli. {marginal = military way, from Watling Street} "There seems also a branch of a military way to have come from Watling street, south of Raisingham, to this station, or to the bridge beside it; of which there are some visible remains, as well as of two or three tumuli, that are on the west side of it. "From Walwick Chesters to the village of Walwick, Severus's wall and ditch are visible in the second and third degree. But Hadrian's vallum with what belongs to it is more obscure. At the top of the ascent, just after the village, there seems to be the foundation of a castellum, and it is both a proper situation, and at the usual distance. {marginal = Carrawburgh} "From hence all the way to Carrawbrugh both the walls and their ditches are very conspicuous, and most part of the way several regular courses of the original facing stones are visible on Severus's wall. The two walls still keep pretty close together, and nearly parallel one to the other. Taking all the works together, they are no where in the whole track more conspicuous and magnificent than they are here, at least for so long a space. "I am much of opinion, that the military way of Severus, and the north agger of Hadrian, have oft coincided, where neither of them are now to be seen. And this probably has been the case in ascending the 221.x -- P. 1081. 221.y -- P. 1054. 221.z -- Nat. Hist. Oxfordshire, p.328. § 26. hill Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (222) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = military way} hill to Walwick. However Severus's military way which seems plainly to have come off from the castellum at Walwick, inclines a little to Hadrian's north agger, and thus converging gradually for a little space, they again coincide and continue united for a long way very noble and grand, except where Severus's way goes a little off to reach the castella. A remarkable instance of this appears at a considerable turn the wall makes between Towertay and Carrawbrugh. This suprized me at first, till I plainly discovered the reason of it; that Severus's military way goes dirctly off to the castellum , and coming out from thence again with a gentle curvature, bends its course towards the north agger, and within six or seven chains runs upon it again. After this re-union it becomes larger and broader, and in every respect more grand and magnificent. This is a strong proof both that Hadrian's work and the north agger was prior to that of Severus's; and that the north agger was really a military way leading from station to station. But this will be best understood by a particular draught of this part of the wall, which I have added for that purpose. The walls keep near to one another for a long way, and the military way, separated or united, is within a chain or two of the wall. {marginal = Tower Tye; Milecastle 30?} "Near Towertay there are five or six regular courses of the facing stones of the wall. And a little west from thence are large remains of a castellum, detached about a yard from the wall, the reason of which is not very obvious. "Hereabouts also there are for a small space heaps of rubbish lying on the north side of Hadrian's ditch, at a place where the ditch passes through some rocks; which looks as if stones had been wrought there for the use of the wall. There are also in this part of the north agger several breaks, as if they had been made for the passage of carriages, which I also observed in other parts. I remember not to have seen any such in those places, where the military ways are united. And here both the rubbish upon the north agger, and the breaches in it, are where Severus's military way leaves it to go off to a castellum. "The distance between Walwick chesters and Carrawbrugh fort is almost three measured miles and a quarter. And in this space there are three visible castella. The fourth has either been very near the station at Carrawbrugh, or just fallen in with it. The intervals between these castella are seven furlongs. {marginal = 7. PROCOLITIA. / Brocolitia; Carrawbrugh; Newburgh} "Hadrian's vallum seems to fall upon the middle of the fort at CARRAWBRUGH a little obliquely. And Severus's military way, which hitherto continues united with the north agger, appears to enter the east gate of the fort, and go out at the west. This I suppose must be what Mr. Gordon means, when he says [a], "that Hadrian's ditch passes through the middle of the area of this fort." 'Tis an agreeable sight to see how intire a great part of the ramparts of this fort still continue, especially on the east side. And Severus's wall, which forms the north rampart, is in the third degree at the fort. The ditch is most visible on the west, being in the second degree; but on the other sides it is not so much. Here too may plainly be seen, that the corners of the forts were not strictly angular, but turned off in a curve; excepting where Severus's wall makes the north rampart, for at those angles the sides of the fort seem to be rectilineal. The buildings without this fort have been chiefly on the west side, where a year ago they discovered a well. It is a good spring, and the receptacle for the water is about seven foot square within, and built on all sides with hewn stone; and the depth could not be known when I saw it, because it was almost filled up with rubbish. There had also been a wall about it, or an house built over it, and some of the great stones belonging to it were yet lying there. The people called it a cold bath, and rightly judged it to be Roman. Carrawbrugh has its name from Carraw the neighbouring village, and brugh or burgh, which like chesters makes part of the name of such places. Newbrugh seems to be so called in contradistinction to this place, and perhaps the stones with which Newburgh has at first been built, may have been brought from hence; for I see no appearance of its being Roman. {marginal = Broom Dikes} "From this fort to the village of Carraw, Hadrian's vallum and ditch are not very conspicuous. But Severus's wall is in the second degree or more, though the ditch is very obscure. About half a miles south-west from Carraw, upon a high ground, is a square fort now called Broom-dikes. It is as large as the fort at Carawbrugh, and probably has been for exploration, or for the aestiva of this fort. About half way between Carraw and Threep-fell-house there seemed to be some vestiges of the smaller military way, supposed to have gone close by Severus's wall from turret to turret. {marginal = military way, measured} "Here I measured the breadth of the united military way, and found it to be eight yards, though the limits were somewhat uncertain. The height was about four foot; in some places it is much higher, and farther to the west nine foot or more. It was about eight yards distant from the side of Hadrian's ditch. There was about five yards distance between the south agger and the vallum, the earth being much scattered; the vallum was about seven yards broad, and five foot high, and the south agger about two foot high and four yards broad. But as they are now fallen and spread, it is impossible to form an exact judgement from these measures concerning the original height and breadth. And in some places the south agger is much higher, broader, and larger than the vallum itself. {marginal = Milecastle 34; Sewingshields; Milecastle 35} "For about a mile the walls keep near to each other, and for that space are themselves and all their appurtenances very large and conspicuous. Several courses of the regular stones appear in Severus's wall, and the united military way is very pompous and grand. But after this the walls part, and take different courses; though the military ways continue united for some space after the walls begin to diverge. But near a castellum Severus's military way quits the other, and bends its course towards the castellum in an inclosed woody field about a quarter of a mile east from the castellum which is next on the east to Shewen-sheel houses. After the parting of the military ways, and near half a mile east of Shewen-sheels, is a square entrenchment between two walls about 60 yards square. This I think must also have belonged to Hadrian's vallum, and become useless when Severus's wall was built. The north agger continues after the separation large and high, though neither so large or so broad as when the two were united. It is mixed with stones, and no regular pavement appears; whereas Severus's military way after this parting appears little raised, but regularly paved. Both of them have the manifest appearance of a military way 222.a -- Itin. Septent. p.74. after Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (223) {continues last paragraph}after they are parted. The continued separation of these two ways is owing to the great distance of the walls from one to another. For Hadrian's vallum keeps the low ground all the way, and for a good space is in a narrow ground between two hills, whilst Severus's runs along the very brink of the precipices, which in some places seem to have been made steeper by art, in order to render them more inaccessible. For this reason Severus's wall is for this space very crooked, whilst Hadrian's in the main is pretty streight. They have made no ditch to Severus's work when they had the advantage of a precipice, nor was there the least occasion for it. But in the hollow intervals between the rocks they have often drawn a ditch, and in these places usually erected their castella. {marginal = precipices; Buisy Gap Sewingshields; Hunnum; moss troopers; Haltwhistle Burn} "After their separation Severus's military way accompanies the wall pretty closely, and is generally, for the whole space that the walls continue so far parted, visible and distinct. Yet the way does not follow every smaller winding of the wall upon the tops of the precipices; but generally takes a shorter course, and passes along the slope of the hill from castelllum to castellum in the shortest and most convenient line that it can. This is very remarkable at the first great turn of the wall, after it enters upon the precipices; for which reason I have in the map represented the military way at that turn, as it passes from one castellum to another. The wall itself is almost all the way visible in the second or third degree, and sometimes in the fourth, as near Buisy-gap; which is an aperture or pass between the hills so called, where there is an opportunity of crossing the wall on horseback. Thus it passes by Shewen-sheel houses, leaving Shewen-sheel castle to the north. This, or something else near it, is called a square Roman castle in the new edition of Camden [b]; and Camden himself thought this was the station of Hunnum. But I saw nothing that was Roman about it. The castle itself (now in ruins) and the motes beside it are undoubtedly of a much later date. And I observed several trenches thereabouts; particularly a large and long one, which reaches from Buisy-gap cross the passes between the mountains. But these are all on the north side of the wall, and must certainly have been made in later times for securing the neighbouring passes. Probably they are no older than the times of our famous Moss troopers, who might conveniently shelter themselves among these hideous mountains and mosses. I took the height of one of the rocks hereabouts, and found it to be about 40 yards perpendicular. But in other parts they are considerably higher. As such steep rocks are a sufficient fence for themselves, I am inclined to think the wall has not in these parts had either strength or thickness equal to what it has had in other parts. For the remains here are not so considerable, though it seems very improbable that any of the stones, especially in some places, could have been removed. in the hollows between the rocks, besides the addition of the ditch and a castellum here and there, the wall itself seems to have been stronger and thicker. Where there is a small break of the precipice inward, the wall forms an internal angle fetching a compass. In other cases it passes directly from one rock to another, and then is usually continued down the side of the one and up the side of the other, except where the descent is almost perpendicular, in which case it is only carried close to the side of the rock, beginning again at the top, which is all that was needful or practicable. Of this we have an instance just at Haltwhistle-burn. In its passage from one set of rocks to another, in the part I have been hitherto speaking of, it forms the north rampart of the celebrated station at House-steeds. {marginal = The Kennel} "As for Hadrian's vallum and its appurtenances, they continue very fair and distinct almost all the way, both the aggers, vallum, and ditch, being mostly in three degrees till they come near this station, where they are somewhat obscure. It makes a remarkable angle pointing southward near a single house called the Kennel, which is about a furlong south from the vallum. And here the distance between the walls is very considerable, being five furlongs or thereabouts. "The distance between Carrawbrugh and House-steeds is somewhat more than four miles and five furlongs. All the castella between these two stations are very visible, being five in number, but their distances are a little unequal. The two first intervals are just seven furlongs, but the next is only six, and the last no more in a right line, but if the compass the wall fetches be taken into the computation it will be seven. There is a turret near Buisy-gap, the distance of which from the nearest castellum is, I find, just one fifth of the whole interval between the castella. This falls in exactly with my scheme about the situation and distances of these turrets. It is also remerkable, that Severus's military way, coming off from the castellum next to this station on the east side of it, takes the low ground, and goes the nearest way to the east entry of the fort. {marginal = 8. BORCOVICUM. / Vercovicium; Housesteads} "I cannot say, that Hadrian's vallum has made the south rampart of this station at HOUSE-STEEDS, but I think it had passed it not much to the south, and seems to have made a small turn just at the the brook in order to come near if not up to it. The southern boundary of this station is uncertain, though the other limits are distinct. The ditch about the station is also flat and obscure. Severus's wall makes the north rampart. From south to north it is about five chains, and from east to west about seven. The ramparts on three sides are in two or three degrees, but are lost on the other. The area of the most northerly part of the station is nearly plain; but the south part is more upon a descent than any other station that I remember. I think the praetorium is visible, and the ruins of a temple near it. The vast ruins of the Roman station and town are truly wonderful, and a great number of inscriptions and sculptures have been found, and many yet remian, at this place. The town or out-buildings have stood upon a gentle declivity to the south and south-east of the station, where there are streets or somewhat that look like terrasses. The best view of the walls, and the greatest variety, is between Walwick and House-steeds. {marginal = military way, to Carrvoran} "From this station there seems to have gone a military way to Little Chesters, some faint vestiges of which I thought I observed but can't be certain. As such a military way might be a service for marching forces from one of these stations to the other; so it might also be farther useful for a more convenient passage from House-steeds to Carrvoran, or to any other stations along the wall more westerly. Near to this way, and to that part of House-steeds where a temple is supposed to have stood, are some old wrought 223.b -- P. 1054. quarries, Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (224) {continues last paragraph}quarries, now grown over with grass. But I scarce think they are old enough for the Romans to have got their stones from them. {marginal = Peel; Steel Rigg; Haltwhistle Burn} "From House-steeds Severus's wall runs immediatley upon the precipices, and the military way attending it is very conspicuous, particularly near the Peel and Steel-rigg, and so they continue almost all the way to Haltwhistle-burn, not far from Great chesters. But as for Hadrian's vallum, as it keeps the low ground upon the skirt of the hill, and is at a good distance from Severus's wall; so for about a mile west of House-steeds all belonging to it is very obscure as far as Bradley, from whence to High-sheel the vallum is in the second or third degree, and all the rest in the first or second. {marginal = Milecastle 37-38} "The distance between House-steeds and Little Chesters is about a mile and three quarters. And the distance between House-steeds amd (sic) that part of the wall which is directly opposite to Little Chesters, is about a mile and three furlongs. And in this space there are two visible castella, the interval between which seems to be just about six furlongs. This is the least interval between any two castella upon the whole track of the wall. The reason of which may be the distance of the station at Little Chesters from the wall. {marginal = 9. VINDOLANA. / Vindolanda; Chesterholme; roman bath; hypocaust} "LITTLE CHESTERS is south from both the walls, but stands just by the military way, which I have already described, tha passes directly from Walwick chesters to Carrvoran, which is very visible for a considerable space from this station. So that this station must be reckoned among those which belong to the wall, it being in this rout, and the only military way which belongs to it, coming from the wall and returning to it. There are two or three forts more, as Carrvoran and Cambeck fort detached to the south of the wall though none so far as this; yet this is not above half a mile from Hadrian's vallum. The people there call this station Chesters or the Bowers; but by others it is called Little Chesters, to distinguish it from the next station, that goes by the name of Great Chesters; and it is in reality not only less than Great Chesters, but than most of the other forts on the wall. It is only seven chains long from north to south, and four broad from east to west, and so does not contain three acres of ground. The ramparts are visible quite round and very large, being in the third degree; but the ditch only in the first. The town or out-buildings here have been chiefly to the west and south-west of the fort; there being a small brook to the south-east, and a descent from the station to it. The praetorium may be distinguished; and there seems to have been some towers at the corners of the fort, and perhaps too in the sides of the ramparts. The ruins of one of these towers are still very visible. What Dr. Hunter has told us in the Philosophical Transactions [c] deserves notice. In the last edition of Camden's Britannia, this passage is quoted from him, but through mistake referred to House-steeds instead of Little Chesters. The doctor's words are as follow: "Some years ago, on the west side of this place, about 50 yards from the walls thereof, there was discovered under a heap of rubbish a square room strongly vaulted above, and paved with large square stones set in lime; and under this a lower room, whose roof was supported by rows of square pillars of about half a yard high. The upper room had two nitches (and perhaps in the nature of) chimneys on each side of every corner or square, which in all made the number sixteen: the pavement of this room, as also its roof, were tinged with smoke. The stones used in vaulting the upper room have been marked as joiners do the deals for chambers; those I saw were numbered thus, x. xi. xiii." This I take to be the place which they shewed me, but it was then filled up. It looks very like a balneum, with the hypocaustum below it. And somewhat of this nature I saw at Lanchester and Risingham; at this latter place it was not far from the praetorium. "Severus's wall, which keeps upon the precipices all the way, is almost at a mile's distance from this station. And if this station was prior to both the walls, there is an obvious reason why neither of the walls could come near it. For Severus's could not reach it without quitting the precipices entirely; and Hadrian's could not come up to it without crossing some hills, which it always avoids, and quitting the plain low ground and the streight way, which it always endeavours to keep. "From that part which is over-against Little Chesters, all the way to Haltwhistle-burn, Hadrian's vallum, ditch, and all its appurtenances, are pretty conspicuous, especially the ditch and north agger. And it is remarkable, that the vallum, to avoid a morass or peet-moss, keeps the high ground south of the moss, so as that the flat mossy ground lies between the two hills, on the brow or edge of which stands the walls. But from Haltwhistle-burn to Great Chesters it goes through some softer ground, tilled and enclosed, and is not quite so large as before. Between the Steel-rigg and the Peel there is a very remarkable turn in the military way attending Severus's wall, which seems to have been designed to carry it upon a slope, from one castellum to another. The way forms nearly a right angle pointing from the wall. {marginal = Haltwhistle Burn} "Severus's wall descends at Haltwhistle-burn from the precipices for a small space, or rather the precipices fail here, and for above half a mile are not considerable. {marginal = Great Chesters} "From this place to Great Chesters Severus's ditch is very large in the third degreee, and near the station there are four of five courses of stones in the wall. One thing which here desrves to be remarked, is the considerable turn made by the wall, as it crosses the rivulet, which has been manifestly formed with a design to bring up the wall to the fort of Great Chesters, so as to fall in with the north rampart. For if the intent had only been to gain some advantage of the ground, or to bring it up again to the precipices beyond Great Chesters, it would not have needed to turn either so sharp or so soon. {marginal = Four Lawes} "There are several lawes, barrows, or tumuli, near the military way, or the branches of it, which goes from Walwick chesters to Carrvoran, particularly near House-steeds and the two Chesters. There are four of these near the branch of the military way that goes off to Great Chesters, and within sight of the station, which they call the four lawes. "The distance between Little Chesters and Great Chesters is about three miles and three quarters, and here again all the castella are visible, being four in number, besides one more, which seems to have fallen in with the station at Great Chesters. The interval 224.c -- No 278. here Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (225) {continues last paragraph}here again between the castella is seven furlongs. {marginal = 10. AESICA / Aesica; Great Chesters} "The fort at GREAT CHESTERS must be reckoned among the number of those that have been well preserved. The ramparts about it are in the third or fourth degree. Some part of the original stone wall is standing at a good height. The ditch is also pretty visible on all sides but towards the east, where it is somewhat flat. And on the west side there is a double agger and ditch. The ruins of the rampart on this side are very high. Several regular courses of stone are to be seen in the middle of this side-rampart, where the ruins have been cleared out. The praetorium is very visible being 50 yards from east to west, and 40 from north to south. To this is joined another parallelogram at the east end, of the same breadth with the praetorium, and 25 yards from east to west. This I take to be the quaestorium. On the north side of the praetorium are large ruins of some considerable building, which probably has been a temple. On the south side of the fort has been a regular entry. Part of the jambs and some other stones are remaining entire; which may shew for what purpose such stones must have been, which are found in other Roman forts. A stone which looks like the threshold is lying near the gate. Some pieces of an iron gate and hinges have been found in the ruins not long ago. From this gate there goes a paved military way to Hadrian's vallum, which is distant about 15 chains from this entry; which way is also continued, till it joins the other military way, which I have often spoke of. The out-buildings are most considerable on the south side, though there are also some on the east. I was told of a cross, standing in a meadow south from this fort; but when I came to it I saw it to be a Roman stone, and the remains of a large altar. There are vast ruins of buildings in this field, which, as usual, has a gentle descent, and is open to the south. It seems to be called Great Chesters to distinguish it from the last station, which bears the name of Little Chesters; though it is not among the number of the largest forts, nor much greater than Little Chesters. "Before I take my leave of this station, I would remark the good contrivance and usefulness of this branch of a military way, that comes from the other principal one to this fort. I sought for such a branch at Carrawbrugh, but could not discover any, and it is plain that it could have been of no servcie; for the shortest way from Walwick Chesters to Carrawbrugh, or even to House-steeds, is by the military way attending the wall. But if the march was to Great Chesters, the other military way is plainer and shorter, and then the branch which comes off from thence to this station stands in good stead. {marginal = Cockmount Hill} "A lttle to the west of Great Chesters, near a house called Cock-mount-hill, the wall begins again to ascend the rocks. From Great Chesters to this place the ditch is but faint, except for two or three chains, where it is distinct. {marginal = Walltown} "The wall running along the tops of the rocks passes byWaltown, where there is a well and a Roman stone or two lying by it. They have a traditionary story concerning this well, and the first Christian king's being baptized there; which is too long to be inserted in this place, but may be read in Camden [d]. "A little to the west of Waltown, and between that and Carrvoran, there is a part of the wall, which is in the greatest perfection of any now remaining in the whole track. It is about three yards high, has about 14 regular courses, and at one part 16, of the facing stones entire. The reason of its being so well preserved at this part is, that the wall is here backed up with the earth and rocks on the south or inner side; so that though it be three yards high on the north or outward side, yet within it is not much above the level of the ground. For a considerable space the wall seems to have been faced up against the ground or rocks, and only to have been raised so far above the inner ground as to serve for a parapet; though even here it appears to have been of the usual thickness. I make no doubt but this is the place referred to in Camden [e], where we are told, that "within two furlongs of Carrvoran, on a pretty high hill, the wall is still standing 15 foot in height, and nine in breadth." Both these measures are certainly too large, and must have been taken by guess. And I am apt to think the height has been guessed at by the number of the facing stones that are still standing intire; which probably being reckoned 15 in number, a foot has been allowed to each course. Soon after this the wall reaches the end of the long ridge of rocks, which it had followed from beside Shewen-sheels, and passes by the station at Carrvoran. {marginal = Low Town} "As for Hadrian's vallum, it is visible all the way from where we last left it, till it comes near Carrvoran. It passes near Low-town, just to the south of it, and particularly the vallum or rampart on the south brink of the ditch is here very visible. I was told there were ruins of some Roman works at Low-town; but upon viewing them, nothing like it appeared. They look somewhat like the houses of moss-troopers; which seems confirmed by what Camden says, "that he durst venture no farther this way, for fear of them [f]." He mentions Carrvoran on the one side, and Carraw on the other; so that the two Chesters and the House-steeds must have been the stations that he was afraid to visit. "The distance between Great Chesters and Carrvoran is almost two miles and a quarter. In this space there are three castella, and all of them visible, the intervals in a right line being six furlongs; but if the turns of the wall be taken into the computation, they will then be about six and a half. {marginal = 11. MAGNA. / Banna; Carvoran} "The fort at CARRVORAN is placed about 12 or 13 chains to the south of both the walls (which are here very near to each other) and have a peat-moss before it. This may both be the reason of the modern name, and why the walls approach no nearer to it. The ramparts round this fort are very conspicuous, and also the ditch, both being in two or three degrees. And the buildings without the fort have been on the south and west sides, on the descent towards the river Tippal. This (as I hinted before) is one of the forts that is intirely within Hadrian's vallum; Little Chesters, the fort at Cambeck water in Cumberland and Watch-cross, are the others. {marginal = Maiden Way} "The military way, called Maiden way, passes through this place, and, as is said, goes to Beaucastle, which is about six miles from it. And the other military way, which comes from Walwick Chesters, passes a little to the south of this fort, or enters and terminates in the Roman town here. It is very visible upon the moor south-east, and not far from Carrvoran. 225.d -- P. 1054. 225.e -- P. 1070. 225.f -- Ibid. "From Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (226) {marginal = Tipalt Burn; Chapel House; Pow Charney Burn; Foul Town} "From Carrvoran or the head of the hill just over against it, down to Tippal water, both the walls and ditches are very conspicuous. They leave Thirlwel castle to the north. Here, according to tradition, the Scots and Picts broke through the wall. But the castle might be so called from the passage of the river through the wall. Just beyond Tippal water and this castle Hadrian's vallum makes a little turn, whereby the walls begin to diverge, and Hadrian's vallum becomes more obscure. Farther west, at a house called the Chapel, which stands within a castellum, the walls are about five chains distant from one another. For about a quarter of a mile before, Hadrian's vallum and ditch, the south and north agger, are all in the second or third degree. But at the Chapel all of them again begin to be obscure. For the space between the two rivers Tippal and Poucherling, Hadrian's work is mostly in the second degree, and from thence, except a little here and there, continues obscure to Burdoswald. But near the chapel Severus's ditch is very large, being in the third or fourth degree, and the wall itself in the second. The military way is also visible in the first or second degree. At Foultown the way is lost, but the wall and ditch continue in the second degree. And Hadrian's north agger is here and there pretty large. {marginal = Gap; River Irthing; Milecastle 48; Poltross Burn; Mumps Hall} "Near the Gap the distance between the walls is about six chains. And not far from this, there is for a good space somewhat like a vast agger on the north brink of Severus's ditch, but whether natural or artificial I know not. Just on the west side of Poltross water a castellum is visible; and about two furlongs west from this castellum the walls are within a chain of each other, and continue so almost all the way till they cross Irthing water near Burdoswold. On the west side of the rivulet called Poltross, and near Mumps hall, Severus's ditch appears large and distinct, being detached about eight yards from the wall. I measured it about 30 foot wide at the top and 15 at the bottom, and its depth about ten. {marginal = Willowford} "At the Willoford on the east side of the river the military way seemed to be south of both walls, and at the head of the bank on the west side near Burdoswold there seemed to be a military way on the north of them both, which was pretty visible. If the appearance be not mistaken, this is the only instance of Severus's military way running out from between the two walls in their whole track. I saw no remains of a bridge, either at Poltross or Irthing. The bank of the river Irthing on the west side, to which the wall points, is very steep and high, but it seems to have become more so of late years from the falling away of the sandy bank. But the declivity on each side of the water must probably have been always considerable; because the military way here fetches a compass and goes sloping down the one side and up the other. "From Carrvoran to Burdoswald is just two miles and three quarters. And in this space are three visible castella, the intervals equal, and just six furlongs and a half. {marginal = 12. AMBOGLANNA. / Voreda; Birdoswald} "The fort of BURDOSWALD stands upon a large plain, at the head of a steep descent towards the river, having the out-buildings chiefly on the south-east. Severus's wall (which before it reaches the fort is in the third degree, though the ditch be only in the second at the most) forms the north rampart of this station; and Hadrian's vallum, which is lost near the fort, must have fallen in with the southern. The foundations of the houses within this fort are very visible. I measured the thickness of their walls, and found them to be about 28 inches, and the distance or breadth of the passage between the rows of houses or barracks to be no more than 32 inches. The ramparts about the fort are in the third degree, and the ditch in the second, excepting on the north side, where it is not so much. The foundation of the west rampart is distinct, and measured about five foot. There are regular entries visible on the north and south sides, opposite one to another, as also faint appearances of entries on the east and west. In the northern part of the station there seem to be the remains of a temple. The turrets in the south rampart on each side the gate are still very visible; and over-against the entry are the ruins of the praetorium, on which a house or two stand at present. {marginal = Midgholme Foot; High House; Wall Bowers; Banks} "From this fort westward for about a mile, Severus's wall shews itself between two and three degrees; but Hadrian's vallum is obscure at first, though afterwards, at a distance, both it and the ditch appear in the second degree. Over against a house called Midgham foot, the walls are about ten chains distant. From High-house to Walbours they are very large and conspicuous; Severus's wall in the third or fourth degree, and the ditch in the second, and the military way very visible in the second or third degree at the least. The vallum looks like a military way, though this seems to be occasioned by its being the publick road at present; for 'tis very broad, but low. There is a visible castellum here, to which Severus's military way (as usual) goes up; and perhaps this has led Mr. Gordon to say, that the "walls touch one another [g]." From hence to a place called the Banks the walls are distant about three or four chains, Severus's continuing in three or four degrees. At a house belonging to one Mr. Bell we discovered the foundation of a castellum. {marginal = Hare Hill; Milecastle 53; Birch Shaw; Garthside; Randylands; Howgill} "A little west of the brook called Banks-burn, at a house called Hare-hill, is the highest part of the wall that is any where now to be met with; but the facing stones are removed. We measured three yards and an half from the ground, and no doubt half a yard more is covered at the bottom by the rubbish; so that probably it stands here at its full original height. Here has been a castellum, the prospect from hence being very good. The foundations of the castellum may be discerned, though there has been an house within it, the end of which has stood against the wall, and probably been the occasion of its being preserved at such a height. The walls here are about five chains distant, diverging so as farther west to run to a considerable distance from one another. And here Severus's wall and ditch are in the third degree; but Hadrian's vallum and ditch are almost flat, though the north agger for a good space is in the third degree. And near Birch-shaw the walls are distant about eight chains from each other. Hadrian's vallum avoids the hill, whilst Severus's wall fetches a compass, and passes over the top of it. Near a place called Garth side, about a quarter of a mile west of Randylands, the walls come within two or three chains of each other. And for this space, Severus's wall and ditch are in the second and third degree. Hadrian's ditch is in the second degree, but the rest of the work is not very visible, the ground being ploughed and inclosed. From Howgill westward Hadrian's vallum is in the second degree, the north agger and ditch in the first; 226.g -- Itin. Septent. p.80. but Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (227) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = King Water; Walton; Sandysike} but a little after they become very obscure. And from the same place Severus's wall and ditch are in about two degrees.The distance between the walls near Howgill is about three chains, diverging a little. At the water of King they are about fine (sic) chains distant, from whence to the village of Waltown Severus's wall is a little obscure. At Waltown all relating to both walls is obscure. But at this place there seems to have been some fortification or encampment. One side of the square is yet very visible, and the ramparts pretty large about 80 yards long. Somewhat also like a smaller rampart may be seen in the middle of the ditch, and something like a covered way beyond it, resembling the double or triple ditch and rampart with which some forts are encompassed, but less than usual. There seems to have been nothing of stone about it, nor any ruins of stone buildings within. It is pretty high ground and dry. Perhaps it has been a summer encampment or exploratory fort for the garrison at Cambeck, if it be a Roman work, of which I can't be certain. The wall after this passes by a few houses called Sandy sykes, and so on to Cambeck fort. And from Sandy-sykes to this fort Severus's wall is in two degrees, the ditch not being so much; but Hadrian's can scarcely be discerned. "The distance between the forts of Burdoswold and Cambeck is about six miles and a quarter. And in this space there have been seven castella, which are all yet to be discerned. The intervals between these seven castella are equal, and just seven furlongs each. {marginal = 13. PETRIANA. / Camboglanna; Castlesteads} "CAMBECK fort, usually called Castle-steeds, is all grown over with wood, yet the boundaries of it may be traced out. It seems to have been about six chains square. It is detached to the south about 12 chains from the wall. {marginal = Newtown, Irthington; Cumrenton; Oldwall} "From this fort for about a mile Hadrian's vallum is scarce any where to be distinctly observed. And a little to the east of Cambeck hill Severus's wall is obscure, being in plowed ground, though just before it was pretty visible. And from Cambeck hill to Irthing new town the wall and ditch are in about the second degree; and continue so to the part over against Comeranton. Hadrians's vallum is here distant about three chains, and both it and the ditch appear in the second degree. But from hence to Old wall it is almost quite lost (though Severus's wall be for this space in the second degree and the ditch in the third) being all grown over with hazle and thorn. At Old wall the distance between the walls about 10 chains. At which place and beyond it Hadrian's work is pretty visible, especially the ditch and north agger. From Old wall to Bleatern the wall and ditch of Severus are both very conspicuous, the former in the second degree, the latter in the third. Here also the wall is covered with bushes of hazle and thorn. And between Old wall and Bleatern is a place called the House steeds, where, about seven years ago, was found an altar, that is now at Scaleby, but has no visible inscription upon it. "The distance between Cambeck fort and Watchcrossis about three miles, and has three visible castella in it, besides one more which was discernible some years ago, but is now quite ruined. The intervals are just seven furlongs. {marginal = 14. ABBALABBA / Watchcross; Stanegate; Bleatarn} "A little detached from the walls to the south is a Roman fort about four chains and a half square, called WATCHCROSS, and, as I was assured by the country people, and have had it since farther confirmed, a military way has gone near it, or between it and the military way belonging to the wall; for they often plow up paving stones here, and think part of the highway to Brampton to be upon it. This is the least station in the line of the wall, and is as much plundered of its stones as that at Brugh or Drumbrugh. However the ramparts and ditches are very fair and visible. It is about half a mile from Bleatern. The military way, which I just now mentioned, has gone from Cambeck or Carrvoran to Stanwicks, like a string to a bow. And so Watchcross stands here in much the same manner as Little Chesters does in Northumberland. Near Bleatern the walls runs through mossy ground, and the foundation here has been made with piles of wood. Hadrian's vallum goes round this bad ground, and runs at ten chains distance from Severus's wall. {marginal = Wallhead; Walby; Henmoss Brow; Drawdykes Castle; Wall Knowe} "From Bleatern to Wall head Severus's wall and ditch continue visible in about the second degree at least. But from thence to Walby the wall is very obscure, though the ditch continues visible. The most westerly houses at Wall-head stand upon a piece of ground called Hen-moss-brow; and about thirty years ago was found here a remarkable stone, which by the accounts of it seems to have been a Roman threshold. The stone was removed from the place to Crossby, but I know not what is now become of it. Walby stands just upon the wall, which is lost in the village. Some have thought there was the appearance of a station on the north side of this village. The country people say they several times turn up lime and stones with the plough. But the ground is wet, and not very fit for a station; and the lime and stones, which are plowed up, may have belonged to the wall itself, or a castellum, which probably has been at this place. From hence to Drawdikes all is obscure, though some appearance of the ditch may still be discovered. For about ten chains not far from Bruntstick-mills, the track of the walls is more plain and distinct, and there is a faint appearance of the ditch. But for about ten chains or a furlong near to Tarraby, either the wall or ditch or both are visible in the second or third degree. From Tarraby to Wall-knowe both the wall and ditch may be traced out, especially the ditch, but neither are for any space very large or distinct; and they are less so from Wall-knowe to Stanwicks, being there in arable grounds. "From Watchcross to Stanwicks is more than five miles, and but two castella are visible in all this space, the one of which does not immediately succeed the other; for it certain by the distance, that there must have been three more between these two, which are the first and last in this space. {marginal = 15. CONGAVATA. / Stanwix; Uxelodunum} "STANWICKS, according to some, signifies the same as Stane wegges, that is, a place upon the stones, or a stoney way [h]. Here the person where I lodged told me that the wall had passed through his garden; and that they hit upon it, and got stones from thence when they dug and enclosed his garden. The ditch, therefore, which appears so distinctly to the west of the village, between it and the river Eden, and which seems to lie pretty much in a line with this garden and the track of the wall, must, I think, be Severus's. And then it is highly probable that Severus's wall has formed the north rampart of the 227.h -- Camden, p.1026, 1027. Perhaps the last part of the name may be derived from wick, a town. See before, p.192. 194. station Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (228) {continues last paragraph}{marginal = River Eden; River Caldew} station here, as it has generally done with respect to the other stations upon the wall. This situation will suit exactly well with those rules which the Romans observed in building these stations. For here is a plain area for the station, and a gentle descent to the south, and towards the river, for the out-buildings. And by all accounts, and the usual evidences, it is upon this descent, and chiefly to the south-east, that the Roman buildings have stood. Abundance of stones have been lately dug up in this part. I was told of some, which by the description of them resembled the stones of an aqueduct. The ruins of the wall are very visible to the brink of the precipice, over which it seems to have passed in going down to the river, just as at Burdoswold. But doubtless both these precipices have been made more steep, since the building of the wall, by the falling away of the bank. It is not unlikely (as some have thought) that the river Eden has formerly run near the north side of Carlisle castle, and joined the river Caudey near the north-west corner. However, I think it evident, that there must have been some alteration in the course of the river since the time of the Romans. And I believe the wall has been carried forward pretty directly from the height on one side of the river to the opposite height on the other. We are told in Camden, "that the wall passed the river over-against the castle, where in the very channel the remains of it (namely the great stones) appear to this day [i]." {marginal = Grinsdale; Newton Arlosh; Kirkandrews upon Eden; Beaumont} "On the west side of Eden the walls are mostly obscure. At a part between Grinsdale on the one side and Newton on the other, Severus's wall is very visible, and Hadrian's may be discovered about a furlong to the south of it. And a little to the east of Kirkanders the vestiges are clear. Between Wormanby and Brugh the track of the walls is also visible, and they come within a chain or two of each other. But excepting the ditch at the west end of Brugh, Hadrian's vallum appears no more after this with plainness and certainty. And Severus's wall in the general is for several miles very obscure, and much levelled. The people hereabouts have no stone quarries for building, so that they spare no pains in digging for stones, wherever they have any prospect of finding them, upon which account the wall and stations have been sufficiently plundered. The ditches are here the most visible part of the works, and are very discernible in going up to Beaumont. At the entrance into Wormanby I apprehended I saw something like a military way, that seemed to be continued to Brugh on the south side of the wall, but I am doubtful of this. "The distance between Stanwicks and Brugh is about four measured miles and a half, and in all this space we have not one visible castellum; but allowing the usual interval between them, there must have been five; for by carrying on the computation thus, the next visible castellum comes just in the proper place. {marginal = 15. AXELODUNUM. / Burgh by Sands; Aballava; Watch Hill; Longburgh} "The name of BRUGH leads one to think of a station there. And when I was upon the spot I saw and heard such evidences as leave no room for doubt. The station has been a little to the east of the church, near what they called the old castle, where there are the manifest remains of its ramparts. On the west side these remains are most distinct, being about six chains in length. And Severus's wall seems to have formed the north rampart of the station. I was assured by the person to whom the field belonged, that stones were often plowed up in it, and lime with the stones. Urns have also frequently been found here. I saw, besides an imperfect inscription, two Roman altars lying a door in the town, but neither sculptures nor inscriptions are now visible upon them. I saw also a large stone coffin standing in the church yard, which has been dug up hereabouts not long ago. If, besides all this, we consider the distance from the last station at Stanwicks, I think it can admit of no doubt but there must have been a station here, though most of its ramparts are now leveled, the field having been in tillage many years. I shall only farther add, that it was very proper to have a station at each end of the marsh, which, if the water flowed as high as some believe, would at that time make a kind of bay; and then the station here, and the next at Drumbrugh castle, would be the more necessary. The walls are lost near the village, which is a mile in length; yet by pretty certain accounts it appears, that Severus's wall has passed on the north side of the town. I take it, that about a quarter of a mile west from this town there has been a castellum; for, at this place, they have dug up a larger quantity of stones, than the bare thickness of the wall could well have afforded. They call the field the Watch-hill, and a remarkable tree in it called the Watch-tree; and the tradition runs, that in antient times there was a watch tower on this spot. I was also told that they sometimes struck upon a pavement hereabouts, not far from the track of the wall, and that the stones they found there, were such as they now use in paving. This, I think, must be the military way, especially since it seems to have been between the two walls. For, as Severus's wall seems to have run nearly parallel to the highway from Brugh westward, and to the north of this way; so from Brugh to Dikesfield there is a ditch very visible to the south of Severus's wall, at first five chains, and at the end of the village Long-brugh about ten from it, which therefore must have belonged to Hadrian's vallum. "Whether Hadrian's work has been continued any farther than this marsh, or to the water side beyond Drumbrugh, is doubtful. But I am pretty confident that it was not carried on so far as the wall of Severus at this end, any more than at the other. And I can by no means yield to Mr. Gordon's sentiments, that the one for a good space at each end was built upon the foundation of the other. However it is certain, that from the side of the marsh to the west end of the wall there is no appearance of Hadrian's work, or any thing belonging to it. {marginal = Boustead Hill; Easton} "From hence to Drumbrugh castle no vestige of the wall is to be seen; though I think it certain, that the wall did not pass through the marsh, but by Bow-steed hill and Easton: for both tradition and matter of fact favour this course of it. The country people often strike upon the wall, and could tell exactly several places through which, by this means, they knew it had passed, and always by the side of the marsh. Besides, it is no way reasonable to suppose, that the Romans would build their wall within tide-mark; and it is evident, that the water has formerly overflowed all this marsh. The Solway frith has reached much higher, both southward and northward, than it does now; and in very high tides it 228.i -- See before, p.174. has Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (229) {continues last paragraph}has been known even within memory to come a great way. {marginal = Milecastle 72-76} "Between Brugh and Drumbrugh is somewhat more than four measured miles. It is not to be expected that any castellum should be visible here, considering the ruinous state of the wall; but computing after the same manner as before, there must have been five castella between these two stations, the last of which is pretty near to the station at Drumbrugh. {marginal = 17. GABROSENTUM. / Drumburgh; Concavata} "At DRUMBRUGH is a fort about five chains square, whose ramparts are large, and the ditch very deep. Out of this fort abundance of stones have been taken. It is very probable, that the house and garden walls have been built with the stones of the wall and station, and that it has the name of castle (as Whitley castle) from the old Roman fort; for the seat is not built in the form of a castle. There seemed to be somewhat like a ditch to the south of the house, which I suspected might have been Hadrian's; but this I dare not depend on. I am much of opinion, that Severus's wall may here too have fallen in with the north side of the station. As for the altars and inscriptions that are here, it is generally said that they were all brought from another place. And it is certain from Camden [c], that the two curious inscriptions [d] which yet remain at this place, and are legible, did not originally belong to it. Whether any other altars which are here, and whose inscriptions are effaced, may have at first been found here, I can not determine. "A little beyond Drumbrugh castle, Severus's wall begins again to appear plain in the second degree, and the ditch is also to be discerned, and continues nearly in this state all the way to Boulness. About half a mile on the east of Boulness the wall measured ten foot in height, though the facing stones are removed. As for Hadrian's vallum, I have said before, that the track of it is entirely lost. And yet I am rather of opinion, that it has gone beyond Drumbrugh, and down to the Solway frith; and that this may have been one reason why Severus's wall has formed in such an angle in its way to Boulness. {marginal = Milecastle 78} "The distance between Drumbrugh and Boulness is near three miles and an half; one castellum is visible, which falls in the proper place, when the computation is carried on, and just seven furlongs allowed for the distance between castella. This castellum is fourteen furlongs from Boulness; so that there has been another between this and the station, which has supplied the place of the last. If the wall was begun at Boulness, then the castellum has been built just at a proper distance. {marginal = 18. TUNNOCELUM. / Maia; Bowness-on-Solway; Solway Firth} "At BOULNESS, besides coins and other antiquities found there, as also an inscription, a copy whereof is yet at Appleby, there are still the visible remains of a station. The vilage now stands, and the fort has stood, upon a rock or promontory, on the edge of Solway frith; and it is not to be doubted but the church, and what other stone buildings are in the village, have been raised out of its ruins. "The station must have supplied them sufficiently with what stones they have used in their houses, most of which are made of clay; so that they have not gone to any distance to fetch stones from the wall, the remains of which are considerable not far from this place on the east, but there is no appearance of it to the west. Camden [e] supposes that the wall begun a mile beyond Boulness, from the foundations that appear at low water; but, upon enquiry into this matter, I could not find any thing about it which could be relied on, and therefore am of opinion that it has been the foundation of one of the small forts, which were placed along the shore of the frith, that led him into this mistake. When the tide is out, the river is fordable here. I rode it the evening I was there, but was told it could not be forded below; so that it is probable the wall has terminated in this station." For the better representing the present appearance of the ruins of the wall, we have copied Mr. Horsley's general map of the whole wall, which will be found to comprehend all the castella on it expressed in his particular maps of the parts of it upon a larger scale, as well as to represent the course of Hadrian's vallum and its parallellism with that of Severus. The former is marked by the fainter line accompanying the latter expressed by the blacker line. {marginal = map, The Wall} Severus's wall has manifestly terminated in a square fort above a furlong to the east of a mansion called Cousin's house, where are ruins of a Roman station and town still very discernble, though the site has been plowed, and is now a rich meadow. The site is called Well lawes, q.d. Wall hills, corresponding with Segedunum (a station). Hence it passes a stile, where it makes a little turn. through the outer court of Cousin's house, by the Beehouses, Walker, or Wall kier, Byker hill; descends to Ewsburn, the Red burns, and Pandon gate at New castle (a station). After passing through that town it appears again out at the west gate at the Quarry house. Thence proceeds to Elswick mill, Benwel (a station), Denton, Chapel houses, Walbottle, Newburn deen, Throcklow, Heddon (a station), Rutchester (a station), Harlow hill, Halton sheels, Wall houses, Halton Chester (a station), Watling street gate, Portgate, St. Oswald, North Tine river, Walwick or East Chesters (a station), Walwick, Towerstay, Carrawburgh (a station), Shewen sheels, Buisy gap, House steeds (a station), Haltwistle burn, Little Chester (a station), Great Chesters (a station), Cockmount hill, Waltown, Wintergap cross, Carrvoran (a station), Tippal river to Thirwall castle, Stonegap, Willoford, Burdoswald (a station), Midgham foot, Wallbours, the Banks, Hare-hill (where Mr. Horsley measured the wall three feet and a half high, probably within half a yard of its original height), Birchshaw, Randilands, Waltown, Cambeck, or Castlesteeds (a station), Irthing, New town, Comeranton, Old wall, Wall head, Wallby, Tarraby, Stanwick (a station), cross the Eden, on the north side of which both walls are mostly obscure, but the ditch visible at Beaumont. They both run to Brugh (a station). Whether Hadrian's wall was continued beyond Drumburgh (a station) is uncertain, but Severus's may be traced to Boulness (a station). 229.c -- P. 1015. 229.d -- Cumberland, No. lvi, lvii. 229.e -- P. 1017. The Camden's Britannia, edn 1789 (230) {marginal = Notitia Dignitatum} The stations per lineam valli, 23 in number, enumerated in the Notitia, were as follows: / SEGEDUNUM / near Cousin's house. PONS AELII / Newcastle. CONDERCUM / Benwell. VINDOBALA / Rutchester. HUNNUM / Halton Chesters. CILURNUM / Walwick Chesters. PROCOLITA / Carrawburgh. BORCOVICUS / Housesteeds. VINDOLANA / Little Chesters. AESICA / Great Chester. MAGNA / Caervorran. AMBOGLANNA / Burdoswald. PETRIANAE / Cambeck, or Castlesteeds. ABALLABA / Scaleby, or Watchcross. CONGAVATA / Stanwicks. AXELODUNUM / Burgh. GABROSENTUM / Drumburgh. TUNNOCELUM / Boulness. / GLANNIBANTA / Lanchester. ALIONE / Whitley Castle. BREMETENRACUM / Old Penrith, or Plumpton Wall. OLENACUM / Old Carlisle. VIROSIDUM / Elenborough. The five last form a line of secondary stations to the south of the wall [f]. 230.f -- Horsley, p.113. OTTADINI.