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Page 239:-
satisfied with self-approbation.- As the most amusing part of our
tour was in a country not much frequented by the curious and
speculative traveller, and never yet described to the public, an
account of the objects we met with may perhaps be not
unentertaining: it may also tend to excite the curiosity of
visiting those unfrequented, yet extraordinary parts of our own
native country, and to communicate that rational pleasure which a
benevolent mind wishes every one of the same sentiments to
partake of.
About six o'clock, one morning in June, we set off from Kendal,
and, after travelling about a dozen miles along a good
turnpike-road, over Endmoor and Crowbrow, we arrived at
Kirkby-Lonsdale soon after eight. About the mid-way we left the
little steep white mountain, Farlton-knot, on the right about a
mile. It is all composed of solid limestone, and is two or three
hundred yards in height. Those who have seen both, say, that on
the west side it is very like the rock of Gilbraltar. There were
several good mansion-houses by the road side, which, at the
beginning of last century, were inhabited by a substantial set of
yeomanry and country gentlemen, the most useful members of a
community: they are now, however, mostly let out to farmers: the
desire of improving their fortunes in trade, or the pleasure of
living in towns, have induced the owners to leave them - reverses
of fortune, or new attachments, have caused many to sell them,
after they had been continued many centuries in their families.
Kirkby-Lonsdale is a neat, well paved, clean town, ornamented
with several genteel houses, adjoining to some of which are
elegant gardens. The houses are covered with blue slate, which
has an agreeable effect on the eye of a stranger. A small brook
runs through the market-street, which is useful and commodious to
the inhabitants: afterwards it turns several mills, in its steep
descent to the river Lune. The church is a large and decent
structure; the roof is covered with lead, and supported by three
rows of pillars. The steeple is a square tower, containing six
bells, the music of which we were entertained with at nine
o'clock, they being played on by chimes every three hours.
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