Transcription of William Ford's Description of the Lakes, 1839

This transcription, and notes, are from A Description of Scenery of the Lake District, by William Ford, published by Charles Thurnham, Carlisle, Cumberland and R Groombridge, Paternoster Row, London, 3rd edn 1843. The copy used is in a private collection.

source type : Ford 1839

Transcription

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Title page:-

Image FD01T.jpg.

title page author publisher A DESCRIPTION OF SCENERY IN THE LAKE DISTRICT INTENDED AS A GUIDE TO STRANGERS.

BY THE REVEREND WILLIAM FORD, B.A. THIRD EDITION. CAREFULLY REVISED, AND ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS AND PLATES.

'After all, it is upon the mind which a traveller brings along with him, that his acquisitions, whether of pleasure or profit, must principally depend.'

CARLISLE:- PUBLISHED BY CHARLES THURNAM. / LONDON: R, GROOMBRIDGE, No.5, PATERNOSTER ROW. / SOLD ALSO BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. / 1843. / Price Four Shillings Plain, or Five Shillings with the Maps Coloured.

The book transcribed has uncoloured maps.

Reverse of title page:-

CARLISLE: PRINTED AT THE OFFICE OF CHARLES THURNAM.

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INTRODUCTION.

introduction location THE Lake district extends over a portion of the three counties of Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancashire, being bounded on the south and west by the sea, which combines beautifully from many elevated points with the inland scenery, and occupying an area of about thirty miles in diameter. It consists of large masses or clusters of mountains, generally terminating in one aspiring and pre-eminent point, with the intermediate valleys occupied either by lakes and their subsidiary tarns, or by winding rivers.

mountains The chief nuclei of these clusters are, Skiddaw and Blencathra, Helvellyn, Fairfield, Coniston Old Man, Blackcomb, Scafell, Gable, Red Pike, Grasmoor, Grisdale Pike, and the Langdale Pikes. Many noble and commanding mountains rise around these, rivalling them in height and grandeur, but still

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serving as large buttresses only. In the presentation of endlessly-diversified forms, these Mountains yield to none, however individually inferior they may be, owing to their being seldom seen in a detached point of view; although, on the other hand, they have thus the advantage of forming combinations at once grand and sublime, towering above each other, or rising in ridges, like the mighty billows of the ocean.

Their general covering is a rich green turf, affording excellent pasturage to large flocks of sheep. The brown of the dying fern, and the purple hue of the heather, add to the variety no less than the beauty of the tints. On some, rocks predominate; others have their fronts torn and ploughed up by bursts and speats of rain, exposing and laying bare the soil.

valleys The Valleys which lie between these masses, are not formed like those of Wales, by the sloping sides of the mountains meeting, so as to leave but little room for any thing but a terrace road and rugged bed of a river; but they wind amongst the hills with intricate and abrupt turnings, and in the level bottoms,

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either a lake quietly rests, or wooded howes and little knolls, on which the cottages are perched, rise out of green meadows and smiling corn-fields. It is a great recommendation also to these vales, that each has its peculiar character, no one, taken as a whole, bearing much resemblance to any other. There is, however, sometime a likeness in the mountains, but more in their parts, considered in detail, than in their whole composition, arising from the similarity of their geological construction. There is, moreover, in all the engulphed vales, somewhat of a melancholy solemnity, caused by the grandeur of the surrounding hills, and the scarcity of inhabitants.

lakes The forms of some of the Lakes have been objected to, as too much resembling those of rivers, especially when viewed from such a height as to embrace the whole lake at once. But this faulty appearance vanishes when they are seen from their shores, or from some moderate elevation sufficient to serve as a naturally appropriate foreground. Then their boundary lines, boldly

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indented with masses of rock, or gracefully varied by alluvial promontories, created by the little streams which flow into them - the steep shores crested with woods and lawns of verdant green, enamelled with clumps of trees, and gently sloping to the water - fill the eye and satiate the mind with the most exquisite feelings of delight.

islands The Islands are neither numerous, nor on the whole do they add much to their beauty; but the multitude of torrents and brooks, and the internal springs, render them truly vivi lacus.

tarns The Tarns form another peculiar feature of this country. Sometimes found in the vales, but more numerous among the mountains, they answer the useful purpose of reservoirs, arresting the torrents which would otherwise be precipitated in destructive floods upon the valleys beneath, and affording a constant supply of moisture against the overpowering heat of summer. Lying as they do in the solitary recesses of lofty mountains, at the foot of steep precipices, huge fragments of rock strewed on their shores, and

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heath-clad promontories dividing their black sullen waters, they excite in the mind feelings of melancholy and awful solemnity.

woods The Wood consists of oak, ash, and birch, elms, hazels, black and white thorns, hollies, alders, willows, and the black yew, which are scattered through the district. There are also many plantations of larches. Sycamores and Scotch firs are the usual and beautiful shelter of the cottages. The coppice-woods and intricate hedge-rows, give an idea of what the country once has been, though now bereft of its leafy covering. The minor shrubs and plants cannot escape the eye of the tourist, much less of the botanist. The bilberry in early spring, with its flowrets creeping under the shade of a tree - the broom with its golden blossoms - and the hardy juniper - and last, though least in size, yet inferior to none in beauty, the lichens and mosses - all contribute to the attraction of this favoured land.

Having glanced at the natural features of the country, we will now notice those which owe their existence to man.

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settlements The Cottages stand either clustered or scattered in groups, or singly up and down the valleys. Their forms and colours generally harmonise with their situations. The dwelling-houses, originally white, but stained and weather-beaten, present the grotesque appearance of such various additions as the necessities or caprices of successive owners have suggested. They may be seen placed on knolls, or up the hill-sides, beyond the reach of floods, and their doors protected from wintry blasts, by porches of slate. Above the rough slated roofs (the abode of lichens, mosses, and ferns) rise the low chimnies, consisting sometimes of four upright little pillars, with a slate at the top and a stone to keep it steady, sometimes of a square base, surmounted by a tall cylinder. The garden is near, with its flowers and pot-herbs and shed for bees; and not far off is the mountain rill, falling into a rude trough of slate, or trickling through a wooden spout.

bridges The numerous Bridges, once models of simple elegance in the structure of the arches, have many of them been swept away by the

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hand of improvement. In sequestered districts, they still form interesting features in the scenery.

weather clouds rain With regard to the Climate, this country being mountainous, and mountains being the natural resting-place of clouds, rain is frequent; it comes down, however, not in cold drizzling showers, but heartily, and is almost always succeeded by bright clear weather; then the streams,

'As at first creation, and in haste To exercise their untried faculties, Descending from the region of the clouds, And starting from the hollows of the earth, More multitudinous every moment, rend Their way before them.'

Days of unsettled weather, with partial showers, are frequent, which, as they fly along from hill to hill, alternately brighten or darken them, revealing the deep coves of the mountains, and again wrapping them in sombre gloom.

'- The clouds, The mist, the shadows, light of golden suns, Motions of moonlight, all come thither, touch, And have an answer - thither come, and shape A language not unwelcome to sick hearts And idle spirits.'

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antiquities Of antiquities, British or Roman, and historical associations, this country is rather barren. The mountains themselves, and the fastnesses which they afforded, were a sufficient barrier; and there was little in the frowning masses, or in the deep, intricate, and unexplored glens, which wound amongst them, to tempt invaders from the fertile vales and rich alluvial plains which lie around them and along the coast. A few Druidical circles are found here and there, and rare though distinct traces of Roman forts and camps are observable. The Norman conquerors, however, seem to have left this tract wholly to itself: all the remains of the castles being found on the outskirts, as Egremont, Cockermouth, Brougham, and Kendal. Even the religious enthusiasm of monachism scarcely advanced within the shadow of the mountains, much less penetrated into their secluded dales. Furness, Calder, St. Bees, and Holme Cultram abbeys, are all in the open country. For a long period, indeed, the population must either have been extremely small, or their religious interests neglect-

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[neglect]ed; perhaps both might be the case. As proof of this, we need only point to the large and extensive parishes of Kendal, Greystoke, Crosthwaite, Brigham, and Saint Bees, and the numerous dependent chapelries which have been erected within them since the time of the Reformation. These chapels present no architectural features worthy of notice, and the mother churches are for the most part extremely plain, partaking of the progressive alteration of style from Norman to early English.

time to visit With respect to the time of visiting the Lakes, it is difficult to speak, so as to unite the convenience and taste of tourists with the most advantageous season; however, we may say, that either early spring or autumn affords, on the whole, the greatest diversity in the colouring of the scenery. In summer, there is too general a green, and if the weather should not prove rainy, the misty and hazy state of the atmosphere prevents distant views. Perhaps the best time is, between the end of May and the middle of June; the days are long, the weather fine, many of the trees

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are in full leaf, the deciduous trees are breaking out, and the spring flowers still linger; then there is the early song of the birds, with the fascinating call of the cuckoo; and down in the intacks, the lambs are joyously skipping about and bleating, in all the enjoyment of a new existence.

As far as possible, the Lakes should be approached from their outlets; and their eastern sides should be traversed in the morning, in order to catch the sunbeams lighting up the opposite pinnacles, and creeping down their sides into the vales, thus gradually unfolding the scene, as it were, and throwing over the whole one mantle of rosy light. He, too, who is in search of the picturesque, will leave the beaten track, and travel along the rough side screens, and catch the beauties of the lake as they arise in smaller portions - its little bays and winding shores - its deep recesses and hanging promontories - its garnished rock and distant mountains.

accommodation To close these introductory remarks, it may be necessary to observe, that the principal towns and stations contain all that is

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requisite for the agreeable residence of individuals and families; by whom it should be remembered, that a transient visit would scarcely afford time to enjoy fully the effect of the scenery, and that many of the more remarkable spots deserve a repeated inspection. The man of science, also, and the artist, will find that by remaining a few days at each station successively, they will travel with more advantage and with greater pleasure to themselves, than by scouring over the country in hasty perambulation. The best order in which the tour of the country may be made, will perhaps be found to coincide with the arrangement adopted in this work, though it will in general be influenced by many adventitious circumstances.

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The Lakes A DESCRIPTION OF THE LAKES IN THE NORTH OF ENGLAND.

'O Nature, how in every charm supreme! Whose votaries feast on raptures ever new! O for the voice and fire of seraphim, To sing thy glories with devotion due!'

tours THE order in which the Lakes should be visited, if seen in any prescribed order at all, can be pointed out much more easily than satisfactorily. Lancaster and Kendal in the south, Carlisle and Penrith in the north, formerly offered the readiest facilities of access to this Northern Elysium; but since the improvement of steam navigation, Whitehaven and other ports have become equally suitable as starting places. One advantage, however, remains in favour of the old routes, that the direct lines are better, especially for carriages, although to the pedestrian this will not be a matter of any great importance.

Tour from Lancaster Since the greatest influx of tourists is from the south of England, and the Lancashire Lakes are best approached from that quarter, it may not be

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improper to commence our description, by entering into the district from Lancaster.

Lancaster LANCASTER

Will, without doubt, excite the curiosity and admiration of the tourist. The massive towers of the castle proudly overlooking the town - the church - the sessions-hall - and noble bridge crossing the Lune - will by turns engage the attention; and the beautiful prospects which embrace the town, the river, and the sea, will give him a rich foretaste of the enjoyment awaiting him amid the blue highlands which close in the distance.

Lancaster to Ulverston From Lancaster to Coniston, the more circuitous but safer road, is by Milnthorpe to Ulverstone, thence to Dalton and Furness Abbey. Bold and adventurous spirits may cross

Lancaster Sands THE SANDS

sands guide From Lancaster. Over these extensive and dangerous wastes, covered by every succeeding tide, travellers are conducted by guides appointed by government. The first guide, who is on foot, conducts parties over the Keer; the next guide, who is on horseback, and is familiarly styled 'the Carter,' leads them over the Kent. The Priory of Cartmel was formerly charged with the maintenance of this guide, and had Peter's-pence and synodals allowed towards their reimbursement. It

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is now held by the Duchy of Lancaster, by patent, and the Carter receives twenty pounds per annum, besides what trifling remuneration people choose to give towards the encouragement of welcome civility. The views in crossing are very extensive: the principal and most interesting feature is the Sands themselves, bounded by the low promontories and sloping shores that are enlivened by villages, backed in the distance by the Cumberland and Westmorland mountains. Mr. Stephenson proposes in his line of Railway, intended to connect Preston with Carlisle and Glasgow, to carry an embankment across these Sands, by which project an immense quantity of land would also be acquired.

Cartmel CARTMEL

Holy Well Is a small market-town, situated on the peninsula formed by the Kent and Leven rivers. The most interesting object, as is usually the case in all our small towns and villages, is the church, dedicated to St. Mary, an ancient and handsome structure, formerly a priory, and containing several fine monuments. The town is chiefly supported by its mineral spring, called Holy Well, three miles south of the town, celebrated as a remedy for stone, gout, and cutaneous complaints. The water flows from a projecting rock of limestone, called Humphrey Head, and its healing qualities cause a considerable influx of visitors from the neighbouring places.

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In the neighbourhood is Holker Hall, the seat of Lord G. Cavendish, in which there is a fine collection of paintings.

Leven Sands Between this place and Ulverstone, the Leven Sands must be crossed, which are very dangerous in consequence of their constant shifting, and are three miles in breadth.

Ulverston ULVERSTONE.

(Vulgarly Ooston,) though ancient as regards its foundation, is modern in its appearance. Neat and cheerful looking, from the houses being roughcast and whitewashed, it stands on uneven ground, at the foot of green and sloping eminences, and is the mart for the agricultural and mineral productions of Furness. The market-place is ornamented with a modern cross of cast-iron, erected in 1821; and there are four spacious streets, from which several small ones branch off. Being about a mile from the Leven, a canal, cut in 1795, enables vessels of small tonnage to come up to the town. Considerable quantities of iron-ore and wrought-iron are exported to different places. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, stands at a little distance from the town, under a hill; it was enlarged and nearly rebuilt in 1804, and consists of a nave , chancel, and aisles, adorned with several monuments of the Dodding and Braddyll families. The east window represents, in painted glass, the four Evangelists, and Christ risen from the sepulchre, after-

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Rubens; the altar-piece is the 'Taking down from the Cross' after Sir Joshua Reynolds: the lay rector, T. R. G. Braddyll, Esq. of Conishead Priory, generously defrayed the expense of both these pictorial embellishments. Instruction and amusement are supplied to the inhabitants by libraries, a theatre, and an assembly-room; and the economical habits of the poor are encouraged and upheld by a savings' bank.

Swarthmoor Hall A short distance out of the town is Swarth Moor Hall, embosomed in shady sycamores, once the seat of that Judge Fell, whose widow married George Fox. The Friends have a Meeting-house near it, with this inscription over the door, 'Ex dono, G. F. 1688.'

Conishead Priory On the site of the ancient priory, Mr. Braddyll has raised a magnificent edifice, in a style of English architecture, tastefully agreeable to its locality and name. The gardens are extensive and beautiful, and the walks through the park are finely shaded with trees, and command beautiful views of the bay and the mountains.

From Ulverstone, the tourist should proceed to Dalton and Furness Abbey.

Dalton-in-Furness DALTON

Is situated in a valley which stretches about four miles from it, in one large, sweeping and narrow curve, till it opens on a noble view of Cartmel bay. It is an ancient little town, and was once the capital

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of Furness - flourishing, from its neighbourhood to the rich and mitred Abbey of Saint Mary. The square tower of its castle overlooks the town, giving an air of dignity to the single street which forms its spacious market-place. The church, dedicated to our Lady, has since 1835 been nearly rebuilt. Dalton would, however, attract but few visitors, were it not from the same cause that formerly gave it opulence. The ruins of the once magnificent abbey still draw the pilgrim of taste - the lover of contemplation - and the artist is search of broken pillars and ivied walls.

Furness Abbey FURNESS ABBEY

Was first planted at Tulket, in Amouridness, in the year 1124; three years after which, on the 1st of July, 1127, it was translated and founded by Stephen, Earl of Bologne and Morton, (afterwards king of England,) in the vale of Beckansgill, or the Glen of Deadly Night shade. He brought monks from Savigny in Normandy, endowing them with the lordship of Furness and other extensive privileges. They, however, having fallen from their first estate of Benedictine simplicity and purity of manners, submitted after some hesitation to a reform in their discipline, and by taking the rules of St. Bernard became Cistercians, the rules of which order they observed until the general dissolution. It then shared the fate of its compeers, when its revenues were valued at

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£905 16s. according to Dugdale, or £966 7s. according to Speed.

Its ruins consist of the conventual church, the chapter-house, and school-house, which occupy a space of about sixty-five acres, secluded in a deep glen, which nevertheless opens out below into an expanse of fertile meadows, irrigated by a murmuring brook, and screened by a forests of stately timber. The style of its architecture is a mixture of Norman and early English. The nave is supported by fine massy clustered piers, from which spring circular arches of massy deep mouldings. The transept is distinguished by long elegant lancets, and the chancel has been a specimen of more decorated workmanship, having four beautiful sedilia on its southern side. The tower, low and square, has been supported by four magnificent arches, of which only one remains entire; they appear to have rested upon finely clustered piers. The chapter-house, a noble room of sixty feet by forty-five, had a vaulted roof formed of twelve ribbed arches, springing from six pillars in two rows, fourteen feet distant from each other. The roof has now fallen in.

The inside length of the church, from east to west, is two hundred and seventy-five feet; the length of the transept, from north to south, is one hundred and thirty feet; the width of the nave is sixty-five feet; whilst that of the choir is only twenty-eight feet.

The finest view of these interesting ruins is from

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the hill opposite to the east window, through which are seen, in lengthened perspective closed by woods, the choir and nave.

Ulverston to Coniston From Ulverstone, whither the tourist must return, there are to Coniston two roads, uniting at Lowick bridge. The road by Lowick village is along a narrow vale, with hanging enclosures and scattered farm-houses, from which there is a distant view of Coniston Water winding round the mountain foot in a north-eastern direction; a low sweep of dark rocks is seen over its surface, and the whole range of the fells above. The road by Pennybridge presents no distant prospects, but the village and bridge, the thick woods, and the Man-mountain, ten miles off, form an agreeable combination. The river connecting Coniston Water with the sea is the Crake, which joins the Leven a little to the south of Pennybridge.

Coniston Water CONISTON WATER

Is six miles in length, and about three quarters of a mile in breadth. The depth does not exceed thirty fathoms, and the waters abound with char and trout, the former being larger and finer than those found in any other lake. Its direction is from north to south, the head or northern part being engulphed in lofty mountains, whilst the extremity reaches into the vale below. The southern shores are beautifully indented by rocky promontories, stretching into the waters, which are mar-

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[mar]gined by meadows, intersected by hedge-rows. The views from the eastern side are the most interesting, excelling those from the opposite, by having as back-grounds the sublime mountains of Coniston.

Oxen Houses Waterhead An excellent carriage-road surrounds the water, often on its margin, scarcely ever a mile from it. Passing along the western side, from its foot to Oxen Houses, the mountains compose agreeably with the water, from a variety of stands. Several rocky eminences present themselves on the left, from which both ends of the lake are visible; at the head, the Coniston, Yewdale, and Tilberthwaite fells, rise up out of the water; the lofty mountains about Rydal and Grasmere are seen above them; and Fairfield and Helvellyn finish the prospect. In advancing, the mountains are occasionally shut out by pastures and meadows, their pretty white farm-houses and cottages glistening amid ashes, oaks, and sycamores. Coniston Hall, the ancient seat of the Flemings of Rydal, is on the right hand on the edge of the lake, and although very much spoiled by alterations, is a pleasing object with the trees, the water, and the fells of Yewdale. The road passes the slate depôt, through low but pleasant pasture and meadow grounds, to the inn at Waterhead.

The best time for traversing the eastern side is the morning. The Coniston fells from above Nibthwaite, are in full glory. Looking diagonally across the water in a north-west direction, the

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water here is embayed, Peel island stretches boldly to the western shore, beyond which, are green fields, scattered woods and rocks, fishermen's cottages and farm-steads, and the awful Man-mountain rising over them, and shutting in the scene. On this side, the middle portion of the road is the least interesting. Towards the head, Coniston Hall, with its aged sycamores and groves of trees, form a charming picture, amid the hedge-rows and dependent farm-steads. From Tent Lodge, once the residence of Miss Elizabeth Smith, (that excellent Hebrew scholar and poetess,) there is a beautiful view of the lake, with its church and village of Coniston on its opposite side, backed by an intermixture of the Coniston, Yewdale, and Tilberthwaite mountains.

Coniston Should the tourist adopt the plan recommended in the introduction, of occasionally prolonging his stay at places whose neighbourhood present objects worthy of such delay, Coniston Hall will at once detain him, since the following excursions cannot but give great satisfaction:-

Old Man of Coniston ASCENT OF THE OLD MAN.

This almost peerless mountain rises majestically on the west side of the lake, having, at its base, the sweet village of Coniston, its groves and green fields. On one side the ascent is gradual from the base to the summit; on the other, a secondary mountain rises steep and rugged, its point heaped

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into ridges and worn into furrows, forming a scene of wildness and grandeur. Between this and the Man-mountain, is a deep valley, from which the Old Man rises abruptly, and in some places perpendicularly. One half is covered with rocks and stones, the other with vegetation. The ascent is pleasant, safe, and comfortable. On the summit are three beacons of stone - the Old Man, his Wife, and Son. From it, there is a complete view of the fine bays and estuaries of the Lancashire, and part of the Cumberland coasts - the isles of Walney and Man - and in a very favourable state of the atmosphere, the Snowdonian range in Wales. The road may be traced from the top to Low Water, a tarn lying just beneath. Proceeding in a northerly direction under the summit of the Old Man, Levens Water is discovered, a tarn about a mile in circumference, open only towards the south, being enclosed in every other direction, and making a beautiful picture with part of Coniston Water, the hills about Nibthwaite, and beyond, a strip of sea reaching westward from the river Leven. The descent to Coniston, by the side of the stream flowing out of the tarn, is easy and picturesque.

Yewdale YEWDALE.

From the inn at Coniston, a leisurely traveller might have much pleasure in looking into Yewdale, with its venerable tree, which is tall and beautiful, though not umbrageous, like those of Patterdale

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Tilberthwaite and Lorton - and Tilberthwaite, with its hundred woody knolls - returning to the inn from the head of Yewdale, by a mountain tract, having the farm-house of Tarn Hows on the right. On this road, Coniston Water is resplendently exhibited in its whole length, with all its pretty bays and mazy windings.

Seathwaite SEATHWAITE

Walna Scar Seathwaite Tarn Is a vale deeply environed amongst mountains of great sublimity; it has no lake, but the copious stream of the 'silver-bright Duddon,' whose feeders flow precipitously from the Shire stones, winds amongst fields, rocks, and hills. The finest part of this valley, is from the chapel to Goldrill Crag. Untutored nature seems to hold absolute sway; the cottages are prettily situated, some being picturesquely adorned with trees. Its highest part, called Mosedale, is tame and unmeaning. This secluded valley may be approached, either by Broughton, or over Walna Scar, or it may be entered at its head over Wrynose and Cockley Beck. The Walna Scar road leaves Church Coniston, and proceeds by an easy path under the foot of Man-mountain, whence there is a steep craggy ascent to Goats Water, whose length is half a mile, and margin stony. The road to Seathwaite Tarn is over a pass, little inferior in height to the Man. This tarn contains on its northern side a rocky island, and Fairfield may be seen over its

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surface, between side screens formed of rocky precipices. By following the stream which issues out of this water, the descent into the valley cannot be mistaken, to Nettleslack Bridge, whence to the inn at Newfield, by the chapel, is only a short distance. The wonderful Walker officiated as clergyman for a long period in this vale. A mountain track from Goldrill Crag leads to

Eskdale ESKDALE,

Birker Force Barnscar (Vulgarly Eshdale,) and the first object of interest is Birker Force, perhaps the finest cascade in Cumberland; the rocky cheeks which contain the water are of the grandest dimensions. On the same side of the hill, but lower down in the valley, is Stanley Gill, which may be seen by application at Dalegarth Hall, the ancient mansion or house of the Austhwaite family, which became extinct in the time of Edward III, but now belonging to E. Stanley, of Ponsonby Hall, Esq., M.P. The stream of this vale passes under the woody steeps, on which stands Muncaster Castle, the handsome residence of the Penningtons, seated on the northern banks, amidst beautiful walks and gardens, with a spacious walk, whilst the neighbouring hills enrich the view with their covering of forest trees. On Birkby Fell, the antiquarian may find employment for his conjectural genius in researches among the ruins of the city of Barnscar, the site of which is an oblong of three hundred yards by

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one hundred yards. Silver coins have been found in the ruins.

Ravenglass Ravenglass, is a small market-town, at the confluence and embouchure of the Mite and Irt, contains nothing to detain the traveller, who may pursue his route to Westwater, or to

Bootle BOOTLE.

The scenery round this place is so varied and interesting, as to make it matter of surprise that it is not oftener visited, especially by those who have leisure. The church is a small structure dedicated to Saint Michael, having within a monumental brass plate, representing the effigy of Sir Hugh Askew, 'late of the seller of Edward VI,' who was knighted at the battle of Musselburgh, in 1547, and died in 1562. The font is remarkable, and is of black marble, of an octagonal shape, having shields, and an inscription in black letter characters.

Seaton Hall SETON NUN.

Whilst at Bootle, the antiquarian may visit the ruins of a priory of Benedictine nuns, called the Nunnery of Lakelay, near Seaton Hall, which was formerly the seat of Sir Henry Askew, to whom the priory was granted in 1542, being then valued at £12 12s. per annum. There are some remains of the conventical church, with lancet-shaped windows.

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Black Combe BLACKCOMBE,

Rightly so called from the gloomy heather on its surface, may be most eligibly ascended from this town, a very gentle ascent leading to its summit. The base being at the extremity of the mountain chain, on the sea-shore between Ravenglass and the estuary of the Duddon, the prospect is one of great variety. The sublime ocean forms one-half of the circumference, with Peel Castle and the Isle of Walney on the south; in the west, the Isle of Man is a conspicuous object; the fine indented coast, the bulwark of Cumberland, trends away to the north; the towns of Egremont and Ravenglass, Bootle and Broughton, give animation to the scene; the beauties of Duddon repose at the feet; and far in the east, a mighty assemblage of mountains rear their gigantic heads.

It will produce an agreeable variety to make the return to Broughton, and by Torver, back to Coniston Water-head.

Coniston to Hawkshead With feelings of mingled delight and regret, the tourist may now leave Coniston and proceed to Hawkshead, over a road wild and dreary, among heath-clad rocks, and past some picturesque cottages, beyond which is seen the town, its white houses, church, and lake, and Furness Fells, making a beautiful pastoral picture.

Hawkshead HAWKSHEAD

Stands in a warm sheltered valley, and the small

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round-topped verdant elevations, give a softness and beauty to this part of the lake scenery that can scarcely be excelled. The town is of great antiquity, and several of the houses are old, singular, artist-like subjects. The Old Hall of the abbots of Furness is now a farm-house. The market-place is pretty spacious, and has a neat town-house erected a few years ago. The church, dedicated to Saint Michael, appears to be of an early age, and stands upon an eminence commanding a prospect of the lake and valley. The Grammar-school, founded by Archbishop Sandys, has produced many eminent scholars.

Esthwaite Water ESTHWAITE WATER

Is about two miles in length, and half a mile across. It is encompassed by an excellent carriage road, and from its unequal figure and enclosures - its two peninsulas fringed with trees, shooting into the lake - form exceeding good scenery. Perch, pike, eels, and trout, are the fish taken in its waters. A small floating island also occasionally appears to astonish the beholder.

In passing round the lake, there are three remote but distinct distances, which add grandeur to the placid lake, and its surrounding open valley and gently swelling eminences - the Langdale Pikes, the Fells of Grasmere, Rydal, Ambleside, and Gunner's How.

Some think the most advantageous point of view in which this water appears, is to the traveller

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descending from the ferry over Windermere - in this, the lake, Hawkshead church, and Langdale Pikes, are prominent: others, again, that in which part of Esthwaite Hall is seen, lands with wood on each side of the lake, villages and groves of trees, and the lofty mountains of Grasmere, Rydal, &c. in the distance. The view which greets the eyes in descending the hill from Coniston, yields to neither in sweetness.

to Ambleside From Esthwaite the tourist may either go directly towards Ambleside, or through the village of Claife to the Ferry-inn on Windermere, and thence by Bowness to Ambleside.

Lancaster to Kendal It is a pleasant, although not direct road to Kendal by Kirkby Lonsdale, through the vale of Lune. The more usual route, however, is by Milnthorpe and Levens.

Milnthorpe MILNTHORPE

Is a small but well-built market-town, on the north side of the river Belo, near the estuary of the Kent. The place consists principally of one long street, at the east end of which are some elegant houses in open situations. Many improvements have been effected in it, the most conspicuous being an elegant chapel in the English style, consecrated by the present Bishop of Chester. It is in the parish of Heversham, a neat and pleasant village, about a mile further on. The church was built in 1601, on the site of the old one, destroyed by fire, and

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consists of a nave and aisles, and a square tower containing three bells. It was re-pewed in 1775, and its interior is now remarkably neat. There are several monuments to the Bellingham, Preston, and other families. At the grammar-school here, Bishop Watson was educated by his father, who was head master.

Levens Hall LEVENS HALL,

Levens gardens The beautiful seat of the Honourable Fulke Greville Howard, stands 'amidst its tall ancestral trees,' on the east side of the river Kent. The hall is a venerable mansion, deeply embosomed in wood. The interior possesses an endless variety of excellent carved work, the oak wainscoatings being enriched with figures, emblematical devices, and ornaments, which are profusely lavished on every part. The gardens were laid out in the old Dutch style, by Mr. Beaumont, gardener to James II, and they are still kept up in the same imposing style of heavy magnificence. The river enters the grounds by a cascade of foaming whiteness, and pursues its way amid lawns, sweetly diversified with trees, whilst herds of deer

'-- across their green-sward bound, Through shade and sunny gleam; And the swan glides past them, with the sound Of Kent's rejoicing stream.'

As an object for the attention of the antiquary, or the lovers of the picturesque, this hall is unrivalled in this part of the country. Levens chapel, a new

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building of English architecture, stands on Beathwaite Green, its tower and spire rendering it a conspicuous object. About two miles further on, near the high road is

Sizergh Castle SIZERGH HALL,

The ancient castellated seat of the Stricklands, in the midst of fertile grounds sprinkled with wood, which finely contrasts with the wildness and sterility of the hill above. Built in the days of feudal discord and border rapine, its strong towers give it a formidable appearance; the interior, however, is elegantly furnished, and the dining-room is ceiled and wainscoated with richly carved oak. The Queen's room is so called from Catherine Parr having once lodged in it.

Hence the tourist will speedily reach

Kendal KENDAL,

The largest town in Westmorland, seated on the west side of the river Kent, beneath a lofty scar, opposite to the ruins of the ancient castle. It is intersected by four principal streets, one of which runs north and south, forming a busy thoroughfare of one mile in length, and leading to the Lakes. The houses are built of limestone, capable of receiving a high polish, and covered with slate. The town, although very ancient, has now a modern appearance, nearly all the old houses having been

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rebuilt, and many new streets erected during late years. The whiteness of the houses is greatly enlivened by the number of poplars which grow about them, the long range of hanging gardens on the west, and the sloping meads and plantations on the east, where the Kent washes the skirts of the town, and is crossed by three good bridges. The completion of the canal to Lancaster, in 1819, gave a powerful impulse to the building spirit of the inhabitants, which still continues to extend the limits of the town, and to improve its general appearance and accommodations.

Kendal Castle Catharine Parr White Hall The chief objects of interest are the castle, of which four broken towers and part of the outer wall still remain. In 1813, the foundations were strengthened and skirted with a thriving plantation, enriching the view from the town. This fortress, the seat of the Barons of Kendal, and birth-place of Catherine Parr, stands on the east side of the Kent, upon a hill composed of rounded stones, embedded in a black sandy cement. It is well worth visiting, both from the beauty of its commanding situation, and from the interest always excited by the venerable relics of former days. Opposite the castle, on the west side of the town, is Castlehow-hill: on this eminence the inhabitants, in 1788, erected an obelisk to commemorate the glorious revolution of 1688. The White Hall, a large public edifice, with handsome stone fronts, looking into Lowther-street and High-gate, was built in 1825, from a design by the late Mr. Webster, architect,

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Holy Trinity, Kendal at the cost of £6000. It is one hundred and forty-eight feet long, and thirty-seven broad, having the principal entrance ornamented by a receding balcony, fronted with columns and pilasters of the Ionic order, supporting a pediment. A handsome circular lantern gives light to the billiard-room, besides which, are a library, news-room, and elegant ball-room. The church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, stands in the township of Kirkland; it is one hundred and eighty feet long, and ninety-nine feet broad, consisting of five aisles, divided by arches, which spring from eight pillars. The tower, seventy-two feet in height, is very strong, and contains a peel of ten bells. In the church are four chapels, three of which belonged to the Parrs, Stricklands, and Bellinghams; the other is the proper choir of the church, though called the Alderman's choir, because they were wont to sit there. The Stricklands of Sizergh Hall still use their chapel as a burial-place, and several of the family lie entombed there under a rich marble monument. This church was given by Ivo de Talebois to St. Mary's Abbey, York, and granted, after the dissolution, by Queen Mary, to Trinity College, Cambridge, to which the patronage, great tithes, tithes of wool and lamb, still belong. Saint George's chapel fronts the Market-place and Strickland-gate. Another chapel, in the lancet style, has been erected and consecrated also by the present bishop of the diocese.

Kendal was governed by a corporation formerly

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consisting of a mayor, recorder, alderman, and capital burgesses. By the recent Municipal act, it is divided into three wards, under the superintendence of a mayor, six aldermen, and eighteen councilmen. By the Reform bill, the town returns one member to Parliament. It was formerly noted for coarse woollen goods, called Kendal cottons, but goods of finer description are now more commonly manufactured. The river Kent affords plenty of water for its numerous mills and dye-houses. There are also very extensive marble works. As the country people for many miles around attend the markets and fairs, the town thus combines the character of a manufacturing place, with that of the centre of a rich agricultural district.

Kendal can also boast of being furnished with schools and charitable institutions, as numerously and liberally endowed as any town of equal population. Indeed, in this respect, the county of Westmorland exceeds all others, owing chiefly to the number of clever and eminent men who have distinguished themselves, and have sought to return back to their native county some portion of those benefits which they themselves derived from it.

Kendal to Windermere The road leaves Kendal by a steep ascent, having the workhouse and prison on either hand. The views northward, in the direction of Shap and Orton, are pretty, not unlike the vale of Derbyshire: southward, there is an opening through the marble jaws of Underbarrow, showing the varied

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Staveley Ings but pleasing localities of the country. Five miles from Kendal is Stavely, situated in a deep and picturesque part of the vale of Kent. Drunken Barnaby resided here in his latter days. The chapel has a handsome tower and three bells. From Stavely, the hills rise steeply to the north and east. The next village that presents itself, is Ings; the chapel, which is a neat edifice, was rebuilt in 1743, by Robert Bateman, a poor lad, who being furnished with a small subscription by the congregation to assist him on his pedestrian journey to London, rose from the lowest menial office in the house of a wealthy merchant, to be his master's partner. The Lake of Windermere shortly afterwards bursts upon the eye like a fairy vision - the islands - the mazy windings of the shores, clad with thick wood or skirted with verdant plains. The town of Bowness with its white houses, and the rocky mountains of Rydal at a considerable distance, rivet the gaze of the silently admiring tourist. A little further is Elleray, the seat of Professor Wilson, on a most desirable and commanding situation; hence, Calgarth appears over trees of rich and massy foliage, beyond which is the lake, and at its head Brathay and Clappersgate, with the Coniston, Eskdale, Wastdale, Langdale, Borrodale, Wythburn, Rydal, and Troutbeck mountains. Down the lake, the eye rests upon the Monarch Isle, lying amid its dependents - the Ferry House and Station on the west - Bowness on the east, shut out by Heathwaite and Drummer's Stile - whilst the summer-house of

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Storrs on its lengthened promontory, with Rawlinson's Nab - are conspicuous and beautiful objects. Both ends of the lake are visible at once. Rayrigg, standing in the recess of a quiet bay, on a delicate elevation above the lake, presents views over its whole length of extraordinary beauty.

Windermere WINDERMERE

Is the largest lake, being ten miles and a half long by water, and thirteen by land; its breadth varies, though the extreme does not extend two miles; the same may be said of its depth, which is from five to thirty-seven fathoms. Its circumference is about twenty-six miles, and its waters cover an area of from four to five thousand acres. The chief feeders are the streams of the Rothay and Brathay, which unite at the landing-place. The former, descending from the Raise Gap and from Easedale Tarn, passes through Grasmere and Rydal; the bicipitous sources of the latter, rising in Langdale Head and Wry Nose, mingle their streams in Elter Water, and after dashing over Skelwith Force, flow gently to the lake. A stream from Troutbeck enters the lake at Calgarth Park. The waters of this Mere preserve nearly the same level, there being scarcely any perceptible difference either in wet or dry weather; they discharge themselves by the river Leven, and enter the sea in the Bay of Morecambe. Trout, pike, perch, eels, and char, abound in them; and wild fowl of

plate:-

Image FD03.jpg. WINDERMERE Map and print, uncoloured engraving, Windermere, engraved by W H Lizars, published by Charles Thurnham, Carlisle, and by R Groombridge, 5 Paternoster Row, London, 1843.

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various kinds, as swans, geese, ducks, teal, and widgeons, resort to its islands and secluded bays. The islands are clustered together in the middle and narrowest part of the lake.

This lake should be seen both from the shores and surface. It unfolds so many beauties to the sailor, owing to the size, its islands, and its having two vales at the head, with the surrounding mountains of equal dignity, that they can only be seen at once from the bosom of the water. The islands may be explored at any time; but Mr. Wordsworth says, that one bright unruffled evening should be set apart for the splendour, stillness, and solemnity of the upper reach, and a peep into the river, which seems like a gentle overflow of the lake. The best land views are on the east side, three miles south of the head; but very rich views may be obtained from the following points:- First, the Langdale Pikes are seen between Waterhead and Bowness: Second, the islands looking down the lake, beginning north of Skelgill, and ending near Rayrigg: Third, the head of the lake, with the greater and lesser islands in the middle, and the Rydal mountains in the extreme distance, is seen from a hill between Bowness and Bellman Ground: Fourth, the view from the Station over the great island, having Rayrigg and Calgarth on the banks, with Applethwaite and Kentmere mountains in the distance: Fifth, the Rydal and Ambleside mountains, from between Bellegrange and High Wray: Sixth, the sunset view from Grathwaite, having Rawlinson's Nab

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and Storrs on the left and right, and the Troutbeck mountains in the background.

The road which encircles the lake, presents very noble views, but the neighbouring high grounds afford more extensive and splendid ones. Its grand characteristics are diffuseness, stately beauty, and magnificence.

islands, Windermere Of the numerous islands that crowd the narrow part of the Mere, we shall only mention two: Lingholm, which is two miles from the Ferry House, a small rocky island covered with wood, and presenting some fine views; and Curwen's Island, or Belle Isle, a very sequestered spot, belonging to H. C. Curwen, Esq. of Workington Hall. It contains about thirty-six acres, is nearly two miles in circumference, and there is a gravel walk round its margin, on which strangers are allowed to walk. Its figure is oblong, the shores irregular, with tiny creeks and retiring bays, in which the weeping willow droops its elegant branches. Great variety of forest trees and other wood adorn the island - the massy Scotch fir, the noble chestnut, and the embowering plane, with ancient thorns aud (sic) yews. The house is of a circular form, and was built by Mr. English, a former proprietor of the island. The views most worthy of notice are - First, Rayrigg, with the Lady and Hen Holm Island - the wooded enclosures up to Elleray, Applethwaite, and Kentmere - Hill Bell and High Street closing in the background: Second, the Ferry House and Station, with

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the hilly ground above Grathwaite: Third, northward up the lake to the Rydal mountains. Here Dove Nest is a pretty object, and the Pike of Wansfell is seen rising over Calgarth, which is on the banks of the water.

Windermere being so extensive, cannot be thoroughly examined from any one point; the Ferry Inn and Bowness, Low Wood Inn and Ambleside, are the most favourable resting-places, from whence its varied scenes of beauty, grandeur, and sublimity, may be contemplated. Newby Bridge, also, is a delightful situation at the foot, seated under a wooded hill of considerable elevation. The Leven is a noble stream, and higher up above the bridge, gradually widens in sportive curves and charming little bays. At Fellfoot, encompassed by majestic woods, the Coniston mountains peer above the lake. Hence the road skirts Gunner's How past Trover Wood, a little beyond which, Curwen's Island appears as united to both sides, and thus cutting the lake into two parts; beyond is Calgarth, and the distant mountains of Fairfield, Scandale, Coldale, and Hill Bell. Nearer the spectator, stands Storrs Hall, on a far stretching promontory; and on the opposite side the pretty projecting woodlands of the Ferry-Point and Berkshire Islands. The scenery from Bellman Ground exceeds that from any other place south of the island. Storrs Hall, the Rectory, the Ferry House, the Little Islands, Bowness and the elegant winding shores up to Ambleside, and the Rydal

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mountains shutting in the scene, engage the attention, and excite the admiration and mute astonishment of the traveller.

Bowness-on-Windermere BOWNESS - (Bullness)

Is a small market-town, charmingly placed on the east shore of Windermere. It is the chief port on the lake, possessing boats employed both in fishing and in the exportation of roofing slate. From its admirable position, it is much frequented by tourists, who find excellent accommodation, as well as in lodgings as in two inns, the White Lion and the Crown. Pleasure-boats and carriages for excursions, are also to be obtained at moderate prices. The church, dedicated to St. Martin, is a large white edifice, with a low square tower. It consists of a nave, separated from its aisles by pointed arches, springing from piers unadorned by capitals, and the roof

'-- Upheld By naked rafters intricately cross'd, Like leafless underboughs, 'mid some thick grove, All wither'd by the depth of shade above.'

The east window of the chancel is large, and filled with fine old painted glass, brought from Furness Abbey; by its present arrangement, however, the effect is very diminished. Among the monuments are some belonging to the Philipsons, the ancient possessors of Calgarth. By far the most interesting is that to Dr. Watson, late Bishop of Llandaff, who lies buried at the east end of the churchyard,

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with the following plain inscription:- 'Ricardi Watson, Episcopi Landavensis, cineribus sacrum; Obiit Julli 1, A.D. 1816: Aetatis 79.' The rectory is on the banks of the lake, along whose shore the glebe land extends to some length.

On the opposite promontory, almost hid amidst the leafy shade of sycamores, stands

Windermere Ferry THE FERRY HOUSE.

He who cannot delay to see Coniston, should cross to this spot. Hence are commanded three views, widely distinguished from each other, yet all noble: First, the prospect looking down the lake, by Berkshire Island and Storrs Hall to Rawlinson's Nab, is one of amenity and richness: Second, in a north-easterly direction over the great island, the eye rests upon Hill Bell; below, but beyond the two promontories stretching, one from the island, the other from the Rector's land, appears the water, a single island set like a gem in its crystal surface, and the green slopes of Rayrigg over it: Third, looking north from the place where the carriage boats are moored, Crow Holm rises out of the water on the right - Curwen's Island extends beyond it - opposite to which is Furness Fell - the island seen in the midst is one of the Lily of the Valley Islands - and the Pike of Wansfell, with Dove Nest below, is overtopped by Scandale Fell and the Rydal mountains.

The Station, Claife On a hill above the Ferry is the Station House;

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its windows are filled with glass, coloured so as to represent the landscape as it appears at the different seasons of the year. The lake is here seen at your feet, Curwen and all the islands studding its waters - the wooded parks and uplands of Troutbeck and Applethwaite - Hill Bell and High Street terminating the prospect. The view to the southward is a great contrast to this. Here the promontories of Rawlinson's Nab and Storrs Hall push boldly into the waste of waters, while the well-wooded but moderate heights of Gunner's How and Fell Foot close the distance.

Windermere to Ambleside The roads from Bowness and Kendal join a little beyond what is called Miller Ground, whence there is a view of Windermere and the Pikes of Langdale, which is one of the richest in nature. The lake is visible all the way from Bellegrange to its head, with its far winding bays and groves. Between the eye and the water lies Calgarth. On the opposite shores, High Wray and the buildings at Brathay give animation to the scenery. The Pikes of Langdale - the Eskdale, Wastdale, and Borrowdale mountains - finish this splendid exhibition. On the left is Calgarth Park, built by Bishop Watson, on the site of the ancient seat of the Philipsons. The greater part of the road to Ambleside, along the borders of the water, is shade by wood of fine growth, comprising oak, sycamore, beech, chestnut, and ash , and is rich in a diversity of grand and pleasing scenery. Should the pedestrian be tempted to step aside and ascend the emi-

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[emi]nences near the road, he will find every field to add a fresh charm, and amply repay his additional toil.

Low Wood Inn LOW WOOD INN

Is delightfully situated on a small bay, over which are beheld Brathay Park and the Pikes of Great Langdale, Loughrigg Fell, and Fairfield; while southward, the lake steals quietly away between sloping shores adorned with woodlands and farm-steads, till the view is stopped by Curwen's Island. By those who love retirement, this inn will be chosen as a place of temporary abode, more especially since the excursions generally made from Ambleside can be equally as well accomplished from hence. Beautiful views towards each extremity of the Mere may be enjoyed from the fields above the inn and the lane leading to Troutbeck, a mountain valley, distinguished by the Fells at its head - the picturesque remains of cottage architecture - and the fine foregrounds formed by the river at every step. This stream rises in High Street, flows over a very stony channel down to the park, whence it glides one while quietly, at another, chafing with foam, till it is lost in the silent depths of Windermere. The village is half a mile long, wildly scattered on the side of a steep hill, at the foot of which are the chapel and school. The views of Windermere are enchanting, and Calgarth on its shores appears to the greatest advantage.

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In visiting this valley, it is best to commence at Troutbeck Bridge and descend to Low Wood.

In proceeding from Low Wood Inn, the tourist leaves the shores of the lake at Waterhead, where the boats belonging to Ambleside are moored.

Ambleside and excursions AMBLESIDE,

A small market-town, romantically situated in the vale of Brathay, and half-encircled by a range of stately mountains. It is a mile north of the head of Windermere, and is built in pleasing irregularity on the side of a hill, commanding prospects of the vale, the parks of Rydal, Brathay, and Windermere, amongst which the various outlets and approaches wind interestingly, detaining the tourist at every step by new combinations and unexpected beauties. Excellent fare can be had at the Salutation, Commercial, and White Lion inns, and in lodgings. From its central station, the town is frequently made the head-quarters of tourists for a considerable time, as within the compass of seven miles are the following lakes;- Windermere, Esthwaite Water, Elter Water, Coniston, Rydal Water, Grasmere, and Ulles Water. It was formerly the site of a Roman station; ruined wall and traces of fortifications are discernible, and armour and coins have been found. Most of the houses have been rebuilt or altered; the old market-house, also, which was supported on pillars and galleried round, shared the same fate in 1796, so that the town now

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wears a modern appearance, and although deprived of many of those delightful studies which enamoured the artist Green, possesses more of internal comfort. The chapel, standing at the north end of the town, on an elevated station, was rebuilt in 1822, by a rate; it had been made parochial in 1675, by the Bishop of Chester. The town also reaps the benefit of a well-endowed grammar-school, founded by John Kelswick in 1721.

Such is the suitable position of Ambleside, that several short walks and excursions may be taken; and these again can be agreeably varied by others of greater distance, and requiring longer time.

Stockghyll Force STOCKGILL FORCE

Rises in the Screes on Scandale Fells, not far from Kirkstone, and divides the town of Ambleside. The finest part of the stream is between the Woollen Mill and the Force. In looking up the river from its bed, the Pike of Wansfell forms a fine apex. Proceeding along the edge of a chasm for a short distance, the Fall bursts upon the sight of the visitor, when standing on the brink of the precipice opposite to it, and at a point midway between the top and bottom. Its height is about one hundred and fifty feet, and it is divided at the summit by a huge crag into two streams, which again unite before they are finally precipitated into the basin below; from which the waters rush along a gill, luxuriantly adorned with rock and wood, and wind-

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[wind]ing through it for the space of a mile, to which the Langdale Pikes form a fine distance. On the bridge below stands a summer-house, the only relic of Ambleside Hall, now hid by other buildings from the eye of the stranger.

Scandale Beck, on the road to Keswick, presents some pretty cascades, especially if the walk be extended up from Scandale Bridge. The Nook Bridge and the Gale are equally inviting.

Wansfell Skelgill WANSFELL AND SKELGILL.

Mountain excursions of moderate elevation, and almost without fatigue, may be made to Skelgill and Wansfell Pike, whence the localities of Ambleside are displayed as on a map, and thus the stranger is enabled to form a better idea of his position with regard to the mighty masses around him. Windermere, also, is seen in a new point of view.

Fairfield FAIRFIELD.

The attainment of the top of this mountain presents a lengthened excursion, attended with more of enterprise and fatigue; it is two thousand nine hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, closing on the north the Rydal domain, whence it should be ascended, in a course directed on the left to Nab Scar. In a circular round from this point, Windermere, Blelham Tarn, Esthwaite Water, Coniston, Elter Water, Rydal Water, Grasmere,

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and Easedale Tarn, the river Rothay in all its windings, Morecambe Bay, Milnthorpe Sands, and the Yorkshire mountains; and, lastly, the mountains about Eskdale, Borrodale, Wastdale, and Ennerdale, are visible. From the highest point, Graysdale Tarn and Ulles Water, Penrith, and Crossfell, are discernible; and three is a grand rocky view into Deepdale and Hartshope successively.

Loughrigg Fell Loughrigg Tarn LOUGHRIGG FELL AND TARN.

No fell unfolds scenes so unequalled from such a moderate elevation, with so little fatigue, as Loughrigg, lying to the west of Ambleside. Leaving the Market-place, the pedestrian proceeds to Miller Bridge, from whence there is a fine retrospective view of the town, thence to Ivy Crag, and so to the top, which is one thousand and fifty feet above Windermere. A considerable part of the Queen of Lakes, as well as Rydal and Grasmere, may be seen by traversing its different points, together with portions of Coniston and Thirlmere, and the Tarns of Blelham and Elter Water. Loughrigg Tarn lies under the west end of the Fell, having a margin of firm green meadows, reeds, and lilies, adorning its tiny bays, which are bordered here and there with gravel, whilst a small stream issues out of it. A few cottages are reflected in its bosom, above which rise rocky and barren steeps, intermingled with wood; and the solemn

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Pikes of Langdale overlook the low, cultivated ridge of land, that forms the northern boundary of this small, quiet, and fertile spot.

The Langdales LANGDALE AND THE PIKES.

'We started - and he led towards the hills, Up through an ample vale, with higher hills Before us, mountains stern and desolate; But, in the majesty of distance now Set off, and to our view appearing fair Of aspect, with aerial softness clad. And beautified with morning's purple beams.'

The chief excursion, and one accomplished with most advantage from this station, is that to the two Langdales, and the Pikes. The best views are looking up the vale, that is, in a westward direction. You pass through Clappersgate, leaving Brathay Bridge on the left, the river flowing towards you, flanked on either side by the Tilberthwaite and Langdale mountains. Having proceeded two miles, the road divides, the one on the right to Great Langdale, the left, which you pursue, leading to Little Langdale by Skelwith Bridge. Here there is a superb view of Elter Water with Lingmire.

Skelwith Bridge Skelwith Force A little above the bridge is Skelwith Force, remarkable not so much for height as for the body of water which forms the spectacle. The river is here contracted between a chasm in the bed of rocks, forming a crooked trough, into whose abyss the waters are flung from a height of twenty feet; the Pikes again compose fine distances.

Colwith Force The next and perhaps finest of fall, is Colwith

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Force with Wedderlamb, forming a grand object as beheld from the bed of the river. A stupendous crag rises out of the river; the glen sinks belnw (sic) to the depth of a hundred feet, and the water rushes down in four leaps, the last being the deepest, sending

'From hollow clefts up to the clearer air A cloud of mist, that, smitten by the sun, Varies its rainbow hues.'

The neighbourhood is uncommonly grand and beautiful.

Little Langdale Little Langdale is parallel to Great Langdale, from which it is separated by Lingmire. It is of higher elevation, and is distinguished by mountain wildness and seclusion, the rugged hills being clad with heath and furze. The entrance into it is narrow and crooked, and through a profusion of birch and hazel, which conceal the river that issues out of the Tarn, having the Great and Little Carrs as its background. Further on to the left is Fell Foot, an ancient inn, on the Old Bell road which led from Kendal to Whitehaven over Hard Knot and Wry Nose.

Blea Tarn Blea Tarn, the next object, is on the heights between the Langdales, and is enriched by the Pikes, Bowfell being in direct prospect,

'A quiet, treeless nook, with two green fields, A liquid pool that glitter'd in the sun, And on bare dwelling, one abode, no more!'

At Wall End, you look down into a scene composed of extraordinary grandeur and sublimity; a circuitous and level bottom of rich enclosures

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and wood straggling up the sides of the mountains, amidst which meanders the mountain-born Brathay fed with the dews and storms of heaven. From Wall End the road passes across the valley to Mill Beck, whence is commenced the ascent of the Pikes.

Dungeon Ghyll Force In a fissure of the mountain, and enclosed by gloomy rocks, is Dungeon Gill, a considerable stream tumbling from a lofty precipice, between sides of impending and perpendicular rock, into a deep dark basin. From the summit a fragment of rock is suspended, forming a rude arch; the stranger will admire, but shudder, to pass this natural bridge.

Stickle Tarn Stickle Tarn is a circular piece of water in the bosom of the mountain, having soft turf on three fourths of its margin, and reflecting in its calm surface the dark and towering crags of Pavey Ark, which rise from its brink, and are perhaps the most magnificent range of rocks in the country: a good point to view them from is the outlet of the lake.

Langdale Pikes The summit of the mountain is crowned with three lofty pikes, all composed of perpendicular rocks, and seeming like pillars to support the heavens.

'-- There the sun himself, At the calm close of summer's longest day, Rests his substantial orb; between those heights, And on the top of either pinnacle, More keenly than elsewhere in night's blue vault, Sparkle the stars, as of their station proud.'

They appear to rise not far from each other, but it takes many a weary and toilsome step to travel

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from one to the other. The north-west pike is the lowest, but most regular and conical; the south, is more broken and rugged; and the east, which is the highest and most easy of ascent, overlooks the rest, and all these mountain regions, rising in masses, that are beheld with somewhat of terror. Langdale Head and Scafell Pikes are quite close. On the right are Great End in Borrowdale, Seatoller in Yewbarrow, Great Gable in Wastdale, Glaramara and Rosthwaite Cam, Grasmire, Grizedale and Causey Pikes, Lord's Seat, and the distant coasts of Cumberland and Scotland. In a northern direction are seen Skiddaw, and on the left of him Helvellyn, Fairfield, and Wansfell, Ambleside, with Windermere, Loughrigg Tarn, Elter Water, and Esthwaite Water.

Thrang Quarry After descending, the slate quarries at Thrang Crag are on many accounts worthy of inspection. The dependent chapel of Langdale, at the foot of Silver How, is small and neat, adapted to its congregation.

Elter Water Elter Water Tarn has low marshy shores, frequently inundated by its waters; seen in conjunction with Windermere, it, however, forms a beautiful picture. From the chapel, the tourist may return either by Loughrigg Tarn to Ambleside, or round Loughrigg Fell, along the terrace-road, of which there are sweet views of Grasmere and Rydal; both which waters should be seen from their western sides, although the carriage-road along their eastern banks is replete with beauty.

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The inspection of the western sides ought to form a separate journey, the return to Ambleside being by the east.

Ambleside to Keswick Bidding adieu to Ambleside, highly gratified with it and the neighbouring scenery, we shall now proceed on the direct route to Keswick.

Low Fall, Rydal High Fall, Rydal The road from Ambleside is adorned with beautiful trees, amongst which the Lord's Oak is conspicuous. On the right is Rydal Hall, the large mansion of Lady le Fleming, embosomed in a shady park, on a gently rising eminence at the junction of two vales; behind it, rise the steep and lofty Fairfield, and the ravine of Rydal Head. The Rydal Waterfalls are shown by a domestic; the stranger is introduced into a summer-house, from which he suddenly beholds the Lower Fall, forming an enchanting garden-scene. He is then conducted amidst groves of oaks, through whose opening glades peeps are obtained of the huge mountains above, and the sweet vale below, to the Upper Fall, which is fine in all seasons; the stream is much contracted, and precipitated down a perpendicular wall of rock into a dark basin. From the bed of the river at the top of the lower cascade, this Fall is a scene of considerable interest. The houses at Rydal are prettily covered with ivy and other creepers, and the old-fashioned picturesque chimneys are retained. It is now also ornamented by a tasteful little chapel, of the English style of architecture, and its hexagonal tower finished with pinnacles, is a beautiful object from various points.

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Rydal Mount William Wordsworth Above the hall is Rydal Mount, the residence of William Wordsworth, Esq. looking down the vale of Ambleside and Windermere on the one side, and of Rydal on the other; the house and gardens are in the best taste, the latter having been laid out by the poet himself. Ivy Cottage on the one side, is the beautiful creation of the sportive genius of Dr. Tilbrooke, formerly a Fellow of Peter House.

Rydal Water RYDAL WATER

Is a small lake, two miles from Ambleside, about one mile long, and half a mile broad, and surrounded closely on all sides by lofty fells. The shores are picturesque, having a rocky promontory here and there, and bays in which the reeds wave over the floating flowers of the lily. The wooded islets add to its beauty. Pike, perch, eel, and trout, are found in its waters, which have been at different times the graves of rash and thoughtless skaters.

At the White Moss Slate Quarry, the new and old roads to Grasmere separate. Pursuing the new road, which winds through a narrow defile, having the Rothay on the left hid amidst a profusion of underwood, a sudden bend introduces the traveller to the Dale and Lake of Grasmere, on whose shores the road lies for a small distance.

Grasmere GRASMERE.

This water is oval, and lies at the south end of an oval valley. Its dimensions are a mile one way,

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and half a mile the other. In its centre, a single island of verdant pasture, rising boldly from the water in a fine swelling form. Being completely encircled by mountains, a view of Grasmere from any direction is varied with bold and ennobling mountains, but those are the most awakening which include the Church. There are two inns in the dale, so that the tourist may stay here for a while, and examine the component features in detail.

The finest views are from the terrace-road under Loughrigg. Here the lake is at your feet, with the church and village scattered amid green enclosures at the base of Butterlip How. On the left are the beetling rocks and woods which ornament the front of Silver How; on the right, Fairfield and Seat Sandale; and in front, Helm Crag, with its rugged top, surnamed the Lion and Lamb; beyond which is seen the road stretching through bare enclosures up to the Raise Gap. The descent from Langdale gives very nearly the same features, and, if I am not mistaken, has been thus felicitously described by the master-hand of Wordsworth:

'- So we descend; and winding round a rock, Attain a point that showed the valley; stretch'd In length before us, and not distant far, Upon a rising ground, a grey church-tower, Whose battlements were screened by tufted trees. And, tow'rds a crystal mere, that lay beyond Among steep hills and woods embosomed, flow'd A copious stream with boldly-winding course; Here traceable, there hidden - there again To sight restor'd, and glittering in the sun. On the stream's bank, and every where, appear'd Fair dwellings, single or in social knots; Some scattered o'er the level, others perch'd On the hill-side, a cheerful quiet scene, Now in its morning purity array'd.'

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The approach from the old Ambleside road extends the prospect into Easedale. The views on the descent from the Raise Gap, which are in the opposite direction, were much admired and most charmingly described by the poet Gray. There is a most extensive view in the approach from Patterdale, in which this Lake forms the foreground, and Coniston Water and the Duddon Estuary gleam in the distance. The church and the rectory stand near it, nearly in the centre of the dale, the former being dedicated to Saint Oswald, and consisting of a nave, with aisles, south porch, and a chancel. The tower is square and embattled. The doors are ornamented with old iron scroll-work. The interior is dark and gloomy, occupied by oaken benches, and the floor strewed with rushes, which are renewed amid much rejoicing every summer, when a queen of the sports is appointed. The painter, Green - indefatigable and praise-worthy artist! - lies buried in this church-yard, towards which he seems to have had some kindly predisposition. 'The church-yard of Grasmere, shaded by aged pines and sycamores, is interesting to those who court silence and solitude. Some charitable stranger has lately added the mournful yew, a tree sacred to such situations.'

The Red Lion, which stands about one hundred yards from the church, is a good situation for those who wish to make tours into

Easedale EASEDALE.

Coldale Fell separates the Easedales. Passing

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over Butterlip How, a little rocky and wooded hill north of the inn, proceed to Goody Bridge. Here the road rises into this quiet dale, and affords a glorious panorama of the surrounding vale, embracing the lake, church, and neighbouring dwellings, with Loughrigg behind. Steel Bridge is an artist-like subject; and Sour Milk Gill and Coldale Fell, as backgrounds to a bridge, compose admirable objects for the pencil. This water runs out of Easedale Tarn, one of the largest of the elevated lakes; Coldale Fell shelters it from the north and west, and Blakerigg appears over the water's head, when viewed from its foot; whence also there is a pretty peep at Hollin Grove, backed by Nab Scar and Wansfell. It will be pleasanter to return the same way back, than to pass forward, as may be done by pedestrians, either into Borrodale or Wythburn Head.

Dunmail Raise The Swan inn stands on the high road, beyond the lake and house in which Mr. De Quincy took up his residence. From hence the road is a long and gradual ascent, mounting in mazy serpentines to the Raise Gap; the steepest part of the road is from Highbroad Rain, through the turnpike, to a long dreary pass, through which the wind sweeps in piercing blasts. On the left brawls along the Rothay or Raise Beck, over which towers the naked Helm Crag. On the right of the Raise Gap, is a stream that divides the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland, and in wet weather presents a number of fine falls.

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Dunmail Raise Stones DUNMAIL RAISE

Is a cairn or burrow of stones, marking the place where the last king of Cumbria was defeated by the Saxon Edmund, who put out the eyes of the son before the father's face, wasted his kingdom, and then gave it to Malcolm, king of Scotland, to hold in fealty. The wall dividing the counties is built over it, and the road is partly cut through it. This gap is seven hundred and twenty feet above the sea.

Wythburn On the left are Steel Fell, the green cove of Wythburn Head, and Nab Scar, and on the right are the bulwarks and buttresses of Helvellyn. Immediately before the spectators, are the chapel of Wythburn and inn, then the Lake, and Skiddaw closing the end of the valley, which, from the almost utter absence of wood, wears a cold and desolate aspect. The Horse Head inn is an excellent resting-place, and a guide, at a moderate charge, can be obtained here for the ascent of Helvellyn, which is most easily accomplished from this place. Whilst the luncheon is preparing, let the tourist take a look at the little chapel on the opposite side of the road; it is an advanced post of Crosthwaite Church, and is one of five similarly situated. The building does not claim much attention, being small, yet commodious; but unfortunately for the dalesmen, the chapel-yard is unconsecrated, and thus one source of useful and heart-softening reflections, arising from the sight of their relations' graves, is closed to them.

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Helvellyn At the very beginning of the ascent, there is a beautiful cascade on the stream, which is dashed down the steeps of Whelpside. The summit cannot be seen from the road, neither is the mountain itself seen anywhere to so much advantage as some others, from being crowded in on all sides by lofty compeers. Striding Edge and Swirrel stand on the east, Whelpside and Dolly Waggon Pike, with the Middle Tongue, on the west, embracing many noble eminences, beautiful villas, and sweet habitations, within their shadows. The ascent is long, but neither difficult nor dangerous. Arrived at the top, a vast tract of mountainous country is overlooked; the most prominent objects, and those seen with the greatest distinctness, are the lofty mountains as they point towards the sky. Behind these vast masses are hid many interesting scenes, while beneath and beyond are vistas of variously mingled landscapes, whose parts are indistinctly seen. Looking north, Skiddaw and Saddleback appear over Whiteside and Styx; at its foot are Keppel Cove Tarn and Red Tarn, on the edge of which Gough's remains, after having been watched over by his dog, 'through three months' space,' were accidentally found by a shepherd; the middle and lower reaches of Ulles Water and Place Fell on its borders; Angle Tarn and the Calcades (sic) falling towards Hartshope, which cannot itself be seen; and then the tops and ridges of St. Sunday Crag and Dolly Waggon Pike. Far away to the south,

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Windermere, Coniston, and Esthwaite, the Lancaster Sands, and Yorkshire mountains, fill the horizon; in the west, the Langdale Pikes and Wry Nose rise beyond Wythburn Head; the Scafell Pikes, with Great End and Lingmell, the Borrowdale mountains, Glaramara, and Great Gable, stand in bold relief against the sun's declining beams. The Derwent mountains complete the circle, the surface of Bassenthwaite glowing like burnished gold, and the lordly Criffel lifts his azure head over Solway's foaming tide. Helvellyn is three thousand and fifty-five feet above the level of the sea.

Thirlmere LEATHES WATER.

The inn is a mile from the head of the lake, which is known by the several names of Leathes Water, Thirlmere, Wythburn Water, and Brackmere. It is about three miles in length, though rarely exceeding a quarter of a mile in breadth; the depth is not above eighteen fathoms, and its waters, which are the most elevated of any, are not remarkable for clearness. Pike, trout, and perch, are the chief fish. It is nearly equally divided by two promontories, connected by a series of wooden bridges and stone causeways at a place where it is fordable. The lower half, containing a small island, presents the most beautiful views; the upper part being more remarkable for wildness and sublimity. Tourists are generally content with

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a sight of this lake from the high road, but the western side ought not on any account to be passed by without a perambulation. This mere is fed by two streams; the main one rising in Wythburn Head; the other, not much inferior, pours down a rocky gill, after issuing out of Harrop Tarn, a marshy water of considerable size, situated at the foot of a precipice, in a coom on the western side of the valley.

'There sometimes doth the leaping fish Send through the tarn a lonely cheer; The crag repeats the raven's croak, In symphony austere; Thither the rainbow comes - the cloud - And mists that spread the flying shroud.'

In order to see this vale from its western side, cross the meadows from the inn to a few white cottages, enlivened by the green leaves of the cheerful hollin tree, called the City, a corruption undoubtedly from some more homely epithet; thence the road, not suitable for modern carriages, leads under towering precipices and crags to an eminence or rather promontory jutting into the lake, from which Helvellyn appears to rise directly and perpendicularly out of the water. In front, is the upper lake and alpine bridges, separating it from the lower reach, with the wood-crested How and Naddle Fell on one hand, on the other, the black and storm-shattered fronts of Fisher and Raven Crags; and often between these rocky frames Blencathra hangs suspended in aerial blue. In a coom on the left, between Bull Crag and Fisher

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Crag, are the Deargarth Cascades. Armboth House is pleasantly situated on the top of a gentle eminence under the Fells, whence the ground falls in easy slopes all round to the water's edge: the views from the house are commanding, and the eye rests upon the huge surfaces of Helvellyn and the Great Dodd. Raven Crag is a mighty mass of dark, frowning crags, that have braved the fury of many a storm. From its foot, looking diagonally across the lake, Dalehead Hall, amid woods of a modern growth, and, for the first time, the summit of Helvellyn, form a magnificent picture. Hence to the outlet of the lake, where the river may be watched, forming still pools between low meadows of green pasture, and stealing quietly and rather sluggishly away to foam and chafe with the rocks and wilds of Legberthwaite, the traveller will shortly after join the direct road, from which he had diverged in the dreary moss of Shoolthwaite.

From the Horse Head inn, the carriage-road winds under Helvellyn by the margin of the lake, which it leaves by a very steep ascent. This side of the dale presents the sternest features, seen, too, most impressively -

' When the storm Rides high - when all the upper air is fill'd With roaring sound, that ceases not to flow Like smoke, along the level of the blast.'

From the top of this hill, is that admired and magnificent view of Legberthwaite, or, as it is frequently called, the Vale of St. John; here is neither

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Legburthwaite lake nor stream, the carriage-road is the only foreground - sweet enclosures repose in their freshness between Helvellyn and the Castle Rock, the How and Naddle, whilst the crags of Wanthwaite frown on a scene, which is closed by the southern front of Blencathra, torn into frightful ravines, and gullies, and precipices. There is an inn here, the King's Head, whence Legberthwaite and the grounds of Dalehead Hall can be more readily visited. A little beyond, cross St. John's Beck, the water of which flows out of Thirlmere, by Smalthwaite Bridge of one arch, which is a fine study for the artist, along with its accompaniments. Thence the road leads through Shoolthwaite Moss, a peat-bog lying between Naddle Fell and the Iron and Gait Crags. Rougha Bridge is another sketch with its neighbouring crags, that should grace the portfolio. A little in advance from this, is a station which displays to the traveller the three mountains of Skiddaw, Saddleback, and Helvellyn, visible to their summits. Blencathra perhaps appears most favourable to the eye, the middle-ground harmonising best with it. The stranger now arrives at Castle Rigg Brow, from whence a prospect, which the last few miles of dreary desolation had not led him to count upon, bursts upon his gladdened sight. The gleaming waters of Bassenthwaite shine amid the well-wooded and highly-cultivated valley, which extends from that lake to the town of Keswick. Crosthwaite church, with innumerable seats, villages, and cottages, lie interspersed

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throughout the rich and glowing plain. On the south and west, Bassenthwaite is bounded by the craggy tops stretching from Grizedale Pike to the cultivated lands beyond Wythop Woods, and the widely-extended vale is sheltered by Skiddaw on the north. The view expands as you descend to Brow Top, whence the eye takes in Derwent Water and the Borrowdale mountains at its head.

Keswick and excursions KESWICK

Is a neat market-town, consisting of one long street of good houses, situated near the foot of Derwent Water. The chief inns are the Royal Oak and Queen's Head; but there are several smaller inns, where parties may be accommodated, besides many neatly-furnished private lodgings. Post-chaises and ponies may be had at the inns, with intelligent guides for excursions by land, and neat pleasure-boats for the water. Here are two museums, exhibiting the geological history of the surrounding locality, and many foreign curiosities; one was established by the late Mr. Crosthwaite, and is now kept by his son. At both the museums, the various mineral productions of the district are exposed for sale. The Town-Hall was built in 1813, on the site of the old Court House; the bell on which the clock strikes was removed from the seat of the Radcliffes, on Lord's Island, and is inscribed 'H. O. R. O., 1001.' This building is used both for a court-room, and also for marketing

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Crosthwaite and other public purposes. The parish church of Crosthwaite stands almost in the centre of this finest of vales; the parish is very extensive, containing scenery not to be surpassed, whether you regard the varied beauties of Derwent Water, the stern majesty of Thirlmere, the lovely rural meads of Newlands, the sublime gorge of Borrowdale, or the lone grandeur of Watendlath. The church, dedicated to St. Kentigern, is a building of the age when the perpendicular style of architecture was becoming debased, and consists of a nave, with aisles and chancel. There is an interesting hexagonal font, having shields and figures carved on each of the fronts; and in one of the windows there is some stained glass. The church was anciently covered with lead, which was exchanged for a roof of slate in 1812. The vicarage is beautifully placed on an eminence half a mile from the church, and commands a rich extending prospect. Near the parish church-yard is the Grammar School, and the charitable institutions are very numerous and creditable to the inhabitants. A new church of the pointed style, having a tower and spire at the west end, has been built by the late William Marshall, Esq. the purchaser of the Greenwich property, situated here. This is a pleasing object in the approach from Penrith. At Keswick are manufactories of coarse woollen goods, edge-tools, and black-lead pencils. The great high-roads from Kendal and Penrith, to Cockermouth, Whitehaven, &c. unite here, rendering this place the grand rendez-

plate:-

Image FD04.jpg. DERWENT WATER AND VALE OF KESWICK. Map and print, uncoloured engraving, Derwent Water and Vale of Keswick, engraved by W H Lizars, published by Charles Thurnham, Carlisle, and by R Groombridge, 5 Paternoster Row, London, 1843.

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[rendez]vous of tourists whilst visiting the northern parts of the Lakes.

We shall now hasten to describe the lake, which is the chief object of attraction, and then the various walks and short tours which can be most conveniently undertaken from this point.

Derwent Water DERWENT WATER

Is of an oval shape, three miles long, and one mile and a half broad. Its waters abound with trout, pike, perch, and eels; and are separated from Bassenthwaite by low, flat, marshy, meadow lands. This lake is surrounded by magnificence. On the south, rise the fantastic mountains of Borrowdale; to the north, the solitary majesty of Skiddaw uprears his lordly head; on the east, the steeps of Wallow Crag, Lowdore, and the Gowdar Crag; and on the west, Cat Bells and the clustering mountains of Newlands. It has been said to partake of the majesty of Ulles Water, and the lovely scenery of Windermere. The near views of this lake are from Crow Park, Friar's Crag, Stable Field, and the Vicarage; the more distant are from Latrigg, Ormathwaite, Applethwaite, and along the foot of Skiddaw towards Bassenthwaite. Good bird's-eye views are presented from Castle Hill, Ashness, and Lowdore.

islands, Derwent Water The islands rather take from, than add to the attractions of the water. Their uniform roundness and thickness of foliage, with the manner of

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floating island their disposition, when viewed with any of the grander features about the lake, are deformities. Lord's Island, six acres in extent, once the residence of the unfortunate Radcliffes, is now entirely covered with wood: it is, along with Rampsholm, the property of W. Marshall, Esq. who purchased the Greenwich Hospital estates in this district. The Vicar's Island, in olden times pertaining to Fountain's Abbey, now belonging to General Peachy, is beautifully laid out in pleasure-grounds, and crowned with a neat mansion, nearly hid amidst the variety of trees, having a view to the south only. St. Herbert's Island, nearly in the middle of the lake, was the residence of the saint whose name it bears. In his life-time, he was an intimate with St. Cuthbert of Durham, and died, according to Bede, in 687. There is a small grotto near the remains of what are thought to be the hermit's cell. The island belongs to Sir Wilfrid Lawson, of Brayton Hall, Bart. There are some smaller islands, but not of such importance as to demand a separate description. Of the Floating Island, or rather rising and sinking Island, the account given by Mr. Otley is perhaps best and most plausible; as an object of interest, however, it is worth nothing to the tourist.

In riding round the lake, numberless are the views of beauty, magnificence, and sublimity, which will strike the traveller of taste and discernment. Leaving Keswick and proceeding southwards along the eastern side, you have the grandest side-screens

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Barrow Cascade Lodore Falls and foregrounds in Wallow Crag and the several precipices in that range, which sometimes come magnificently forward, sometimes retire and lean to the east, their grey fronts often enlivened by green woods, and combining with the water - the small meadowy promontories and tree-clad eminences - with Glaramara and his azure compeers in Borrowdale. The first we shall particularise is one of the lake, as seen over Lord's Island, Castle Head being on the left and Friar Crag on the right of that island, and beyond, Causey Pike with Newlands lying between Grizedale and Cat Bells. On Barrow Common may be observed that finely-wooded promontory, which boldly projects almost into the middle of the lake from the hall built by the late Joseph Pocklington, Esq. and commanding a fine view of Derwent Water and Skiddaw. The cascade, at the back of the house, may be seen by leave; there are two falls, but the upper one is artificial; fine trees, grassy banks, and rocks richly decked in many greened mosses, are the adornments of these falls, and their height is one hundred and twenty-two feet. After leaving Barrow, the far-famed Lowdore possesses irresistible claims on the notice of the wanderer. This Force, after incessant rains, is with its accompaniments sublime, but unfortunately, perhaps, for those who visit the Lakes, few have the opportunity of seeing it at such a time. The chasm through which the river passes is immense, and in dry seasons the stones or fragments of rock subdivide and obscure its waters. Gowdar

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Grange Portinscale Crag upon the left, broad, bold, and finely marked, rearing its aged head to an enormous height, overlooks the embattled projection of Shepherd's Crag on the right. These rocks, exhibiting surfaces of grandeur, are finely contrasted and beautifully enriched with oak, ash, and birch, of which some are large and stately, others picturesque and wild, fantastically expanding over, and impending from, and partially obscuring rocks where vegetation could scarcely be expected. There is a good inn where refreshment may be had at a moderate charge. Further on is a scene greatly and deservedly admired, we mean the bridge and village of Grange, planted on the west banks of the Derwent; the sweetly-wooded Holme Crag and other knolls swell above the houses, over which masses of rock and precipitous crags sublimely tower. The road here, without crossing the water, enters Borrowdale. Along the western side of the lake are two terrace-roads, the lower one of which is commonly used, and commands a succession of scenes replete with gratification. The retrospective views are into Borrowdale, but in front are the islands studding the glassy mirror of the lake, the finely-embayed coast about Water End and Brandelow, with the deeply-indented shores of the rich country beyond, and the town of Keswick overlooked by Lonscale Fell, Skiddaw, and Blencathra. Passing by Derwent Bank and Lodge with Foe Park, you come to Portinscale, a small village on the gentle swell of a hill, which rises from the lake and river. From

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the neighbouring grounds that are higher than the houses, may be viewed the lakes of Derwent Water and the Bassenthwaite, with all the finely-wooded and fertile country reaching from Swineside to Skiddaw, a scene which for extent, beauty, and sublimity, can rarely be equalled. Hence you cross the Long Bridge over the Derwent, and passing the church by the high-road or through the meadows of Howray, arrive again at Keswick.

The boating on the lake presents the same grand objects from a different surface and point of view. We should, therefore, recommend the excursion to be left to the discretion of the boatmen, who are also guides. If it could be made by moonlight, the gratification would be intense.

As might naturally be expected, Keswick is surrounded by delightful walks, and is the grand focus from whence rides, embracing every variety of lake and mountain scenery, radiate.

Crow Park CROW PARK,

Lying between the town and lake, and once covered with oaks, though now denuded of its leafy honours, is a gentle eminence presenting several beautiful views, which shall be pointed out by way of enumeration. The first view is towards the head of the lake, beyond which the Borrowdale mountains are observed clustering together above Castle Crag, the conical hill in the centre of the opening. Second, directly west over the lake, between Vicar's

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Island and the isthmus, are the Newlands mountains, and beyond them, Robinson and High Stile on the east and west sides of Buttermere respectively. Third, over the lower end of the lake is a scene of beauty and grandeur; villas and the village of Braithwaite, partially hidden by trees, are scattered over gentle eminences, Grizedale Pike towering over the whole. And fourth, a very narrow strip of Bassenthwaite may be observed over the meadows, and the easy swelling hills which in the remote distance grace the foot of the lake.

Friar's Crag FRIAR CRAG

Is the grand promenade, and the place to which all strangers are conducted on their arrival in Keswick. The latter part of this walk is through a grove of oaks and firs; and at the end there is a bench to rest on, whence may be seen nearly the whole circumference of the lake.

Cockshott Wood COCKSHOT

Presents a general view of the lake, and from its vicinity to the town, its ease of access, and its numerous charms, demands peculiar attention.

Castle Head Wallow Crag CASTLEHEAD AND WALLOW CRAG.

There is a beautiful and entertaining walk to the summit of these, which is gained by proceeding

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a short distance on the Borrowdale road, and then turning up the woods to the left. At the commencement is a superb view of Keswick, the church, and Bassenthwaite. On the top are benches, where you may rest, and look over the soft bosom of the lake full into the gorge of Borrowdale, which is the grandest aspect. To the north is Bassenthwaite Water and the stately Skiddaw.

River Greta THE GRETA.

There is not a more interesting walk than up this river, which presents splendid views of Blencathra as you follow the stream up its course. Downwards there is an attractive picture, the cotton-mill being in front, whilst over a bend of the stream, flanked by woods, are seen the distant mountains of Newlands.

Castlerigg Stone Circle THE DRUID'S CIRCLE.

'A few rude monuments of mountain stone Survive: all else is swept away.'

This religious monument is situated on the top of a lone hill, one mile and three quarters on the road from Keswick to Penrith, in the centre of the loftiest mountains in the district, away from the sight and sound of human life. It occupies a circular area three hundred and thirty-six feet in circumference, and one hundred and fourteen feet in diameter, surrounded by thirty-eight granite stones

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from three to eight feet high, having at the east end ten other stones, forming three sides of a square. From these stones is seen the whole encircling country; Skiddaw and Blencathra to the north present their deep-chasmed and precipitous fronts; the Dodds, Wanthwaite Pikes, with the savage dale of Naddle, shut up the scene to the south; and to the west, the fells beyond Keswick rear their majestic and undulating summits to the clouds; whilst on the east, the dreary waste of Hutton Moor is over-topped by the blue summit of Cross Fell. It was amidst such scenes as these that the Druid sage warmed into piety the hardy tempers of the Britons, and employed the solemnity of nature to aid the sanctity of religion: for

'There his temple rose! no fretted aisle, No vaulted roof adorn'd the simple pile, But clouds above them, and around the wood - Roofless and vast the circle columns stood! Such relics still the wondering shepherd sees Where ocean rocks the storm-clad Hebrides: Where Keswick's lake expands its glassy breast, Or Mona's cliffs conceal the eaglet's nest; Or where dim silence holds its spectral reign, O'er Scotia's heaths and Sarum's lonely plain. Times spares them still - to tell how short the span Assign'd to earth's uncertain wanderer - man; How long his works, like summer's twilight ray, Outlive the sunset of his own decay!'

Having described the neighbouring walks, such as may be made in an evening, or when the weather has perhaps for part of the day kept the tourist within, and he is at a loss to fill up the remainder

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profitably, an account of those which demand longer time shall follow.

Watendlath WATENDLATH.

Ashness Bridge The road pursues the eastern side of Derwent Water as far as Barrow Common, when it ascends the hill, having Barrow House on the right, Ashness Bridge crossing the stream which forms that cascade. There is a fine retrospective view of Derwent Water, with Skiddaw, Bassenthwaite, and the distant lands. The road then passes through a narrow valley, walled in on the right by steep precipices two or three hundred feet high; while the other side recedes upwards, so that its slopes admit of the plough. Through this defile flows the stream forming Lowdore, which on leaving the valley enters an abyss, rendered gloomy by beetling crags and shadowy trees. The hamlet is in a solitary valley three hundred yards above the surrounding vales: all the houses are richly coloured, and well combined with wood and back grounds. The bridge is worthy of notice, and crosses the stream at its outlet from the lake or tarn, which is large and circular, fringed with trees and guarded by rocky heights. The stream that enters it, flows from Blea Tarn, which is higher up, whence there is presented a most extensive mountain prospect. Leaving this upper story of society, we shall descend into Borrowdale, after passing

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'A dreary plain, With a tumultuous waste of huge hill-tops, A savage region.'

But from the top is opened out a magnificent scene of mountains, inclosing the Vale of Rosthwaite, Seathwaite, and Stonethwaite, and their wild boundaries. The return from Rosthwaite to Keswick is past the Bowder Stone, and along the banks of Derwent Water; or it may be by the top of Lowdore Fall, for the sake of the view of Derwent Water, Skiddaw, &c.

Thirlmere THE WEST SIDE OF LEATHES WATER.

Castle Rock From Keswick the tourist must proceed on the Ambleside road till he arrives at the end of Shoolthwaite Moss, where he will deviate to the right into a rugged cart-road. This leads to the foot of the lake, and thence along its western side, as before described, to Armboth. Cross the lake here, and pass through the park of Dale Head Hall as far as the main road, whence is the fine view of Legberthwaite, with Blencathra as its background. Pass through this rugged valley, affording room for little more than the road and river, to the rock of St. John's or Green Crag. The approach into the valley from Threlkeld displays this rock in the most poetical point of view, and under some states of atmosphere it requires no stretch of the imagination to transform its grey perpendicular masses into an impregnable castle, whose walls and turrets

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waving with ivy and other parasitical plants, form the prison of the immortal Merlin. Legberthwaite Mill at its foot was destroyed some seventy years ago by a water-spout, all the destructive traces of which the healing hand of time has effaced. On the right are the huge, sullen, and severe crags of Wanthwaite, which for terrific grandeur vie with any in the district. Immediately beneath them, on a gentle knoll, is the pleasant mansion of Lowthwaite, overlooking the agreeable vale of Threlkeld. The river, and bridges spanning its stream in different places, form fine foregrounds to various charming scenes. Towards the left, on Naddle Fell, stands the chapel of St. John, secluded from the cheering rays of the sun during a quarter of the year. The road continues till it meets the line from Penrith, and so again passing the Druid's Circle, you reach Keswick.

Skiddaw SKIDDAW

Is less difficult of ascent than the rest of the superior elevations, and the road from the town is so conducted as to render the way easy either on foot or on horseback. The views in the ascent are perhaps superior to those presented from the summit. One of the finest is where Ormathwaite appears splendidly surrounded by majestic trees, and all the populous and beautifully-embowered plain extending from lake to lake. A little further is an exquisite view of Keswick and the lake, with

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the Borrowdale, Langdale, and Wastdale mountains. On the steepest part of the road, Derwent Water gradually unfolds and extends itself in its whole encircling and beautifully-embayed coast, its islands, and its fertile shores and savage boundaries. Hence also the high mountains of Langdale, Coniston, Eskdale, Borrowdale, Wastdale, Buttermere, and Newlands, are observed in an arrangement superior to their appearance from any other point. There are seven distinct tops or heaps of stone, which should be visited in succession by the pedestrian: most of these present interesting and varying views, but the chief elevation is deficient in not allowing a sight of Derwent Water. The grand and extensive prospects embrace five different ranges of mountains: First, Grizedale, rising from the enclosures of Braithwaite. Second, succeeded by Barrow and Stile End. The third range rises from the fields of Newlands, and terminates in Causey Pikes and Grasmire. The fourth in this wild combination, includes Cat Bells, Hindscarth, Robinson, and Red Pike. The fifth and last, is that sublime chain extending from Coniston to Ennerdale. In the distant sea is observable the Isle of Man; the towns of Cockermouth and Workington on the Derwent; the Solway, with Maryport and Allonby; Ireby at the foot of Binsey; Wigton and Carlisle; High Hesket and Tarn Wadling; and Blencathra and Wanthwaite Crags.

The descent will appear to many more pleasing, both as it is easier, and as it is agreeable to see

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every thing resuming their original shapes and just proportions, which they lose when viewed from such an unusual elevation. The returning symptoms of life, the hum of bees, the song of birds, and the voice of busy people, restore tone to the spirits depressed by over much excitement.

Saddleback BLENCATHRA OR SADDLEBACK.

In order to reach the top of this mountain, it is best to go along the road towards Penrith as far as Scales, a hamlet six miles from Keswick; here a bye-road keeps close under the fell, which must be pursued till a shepherd's green path can be traced, winding up the hill-side. The first ridge this path reaches, gives a glimpse down into the vale, watered by the Glenderamaken; thence to the summit it is easy. From Linthwaite Pike, the highest point, the prospect is open to the north, east, and south. At the base of an enormous perpendicular crag, called Tarn Crag, depending from the top, is Scales Tarn, a beautiful circular piece of transparent water, with a well defined shore, covering an area of three acres and a half, and being eighteen feet deep. Here you are engulphed in a basin of steeps, having Tarn Crag on the north, the rocks falling from Sharp Edge on the east, and on the west the soft turf on which the descent has been made. From the summit of the mountain you may descend either directly upon Threlkeld, or by Lile Fell, Priestman, and Knott Crags, to the Glenderaterra, the stream

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that flows out of Skiddaw Forest; a bridge crosses the beck, and the path will conduct you through Brundholm by a pleasant walk to Keswick.

Keswick being the head-quarters for the Cumberland Lakes, there yet remain many animating excursions for the entertainment of the active traveller.

Borrowdale BORROWDALE.

Not the least interesting is that into this dale, at the entrance of which we were in the ride round Derwent Water. At a distance it seems as if all further progress were staid by a barrier of mountains, but upon approaching this wall, one mountain corner is found to be set a little past the other, so that a winding entrance is left; the gorge is straight, the whole width being occupied by the road and river.

Castle Crag Within the entrance is Castle Crag, on which tradition says that an ancient Roman fortification once stood, commanding the pass into Borrowdale. Its summit commands a view northward of the whole encircling shore of Derwent Water, with the village of Grange in the foreground, Manesty, Falcon, and Wallow Crags, being the immediate side screens; Crosthwaite Church and Flatts bound the lake, the woods of Foe Park rise in the west, Castle Rigg and Lat Rigg on the east, and Skiddaw shuts off the scene. To the south, the prospect is into the dale. The Bowder Stone and the wind-

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[wind]ing river are below, the village of Rosthwaite is in front at the junction of the vales of Stonethwaite and Seathwaite, while Eagle Crag and Glaramara tower above.

Bowder Stone The Bowder Stone next arrests the attention, standing on a high bank overlooking the river Derwent.

'Upon a semicirque of turf-clad ground, The hidden nook discover'd to our view A mass of rock, resembling, as it lay Right at the foot of that moist precipice, A stranded ship, with keel upturn'd, that rests Fearless of winds and waves.'

This is an immense fragment of rock, which may possibly at some very distant period have fallen from the mountains near, and have ever since remained in its present position. Its dimensions are as follows:- length, sixty-two feet; height, thirty-six feet; circumference, eighty-nine feet; mass, twenty-three thousand and ninety cubic feet; and estimated weight, one thousand nine hundred and seventy-one tons. The appearance of it is not improved by the ladder affixed to it to enable people to see from its top, what can be much better viewed from Castle Crag. A slate bench near it, present a pleasing view into Borrowdale. On the right are Randerson's Band Rocks; beneath meanders the Derwent, enriching with welcome fertility, the fields and meadows through which are scattered the dwellings of Borrowdale. These rich meadows stretch to the borders of the mountains, whose

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Rosthwaite bases and sloping sides are covered with wood almost to their aspiring tops. At Rosthwaite, the principal hamlet, is a small inn. The vales of which Borrowdale is composed diverge from this village, up which the tourist approaches from Keswick to the north; Seatoller leading to Buttermere to the west; Seathwaite and over the Stye Head to Wastdale in a southerly direction; and Stonethwaite to the south-east, which again separates into Langstreth, leading over the Stake into Great Langdale, and Greenup leading into Easedale, and thence to Grasmere.

A little up the road from the inn towards Stonethwaite is a splendid view, the river forming the foreground, and Eagle Crag the distance. The tourist should not fail to proceed to the point where the grains of Greenup and Langstreth separate, which he must do by crossing Stonethwaite Bridge. This makes a picturesque subject, the village composing the middle ground, and the Hay Stacks the distance; then ascend a little way up the wooded rocks on the left, by which means he will command a view of both at once, divided by the towering precipices of Eagle Crag, having Bull Crag directly in front. The mountains of this dale, clad with oaks and ash, yews and thorns, almost to their summits, are the loftiest and most beautiful in Borrowdale.

Keswick to Wasdale, Calder Abbey, etc Leaving Rosthwaite to proceed onwards to Wast Water, whither we shall pursue our journey, on the left is the neat small chapel belonging to this dale.

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It is situated at the foot of steep mountains, and was rebuilt in 1706, Joseph Harris being chapel-warden, as an inscription declares. Further on is a small bridge over the Seathwaite-arm of the Derwent. The road to the right leads by Seatoller to Buttermere, which we shall have occasion to notice afterwards. Seathwaite Bridge and village combine happily with Aaron End and Sprinkling, which cross the head of the valley, above which Great End swells sublimely, having on the left Keppel Cove and Hind Crag, and on the right Bays Brown. Hence may be visited the famous

black lead mine, Seathwaite pencils WAD MINE,

Which is in the south-east part of Giller Coom, flanked at its ends by Seatoller Fell and Bays Brown. It has been opened at different places, where the wad had probably appeared on the surface. This curious and valuable substance is met with in masses, often at a considerable distance from each other, and found with great difficulty in a rock of grey felspar porphyry. When the mine was first opened, has not been ascertained. Formerly it was wrought only at intervals, and in such a manner as to keep up the price of the article; but not being so rich in quantity, and inferior also in quality, it is now carried on regularly to meet the increased demand. A house is built over the mouth, where the workmen are examined every time they leave the mine; but owing to the great value of the

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wad, the greatest precaution has scarcely been able to keep the miners honest. The principal owner is H. Bankes, Esq. Its main use is for the manufactory of pencils, which the artist would now find it a great inconvenience to want.

Stockley Bridge Sty Head After leaving the mine and Seathwaite, keeping Taylor's Gill on the right, Stockley Bridge will tempt the artist to make a momento of it, and the rest will also prepare him for the ascent up Aaron, which leads in a zig-zag course, till it reaches the Stye Head, one thousand two hundred and fifty feet above the valley. The tarn under Great End Crag is a fine subject for the pencil. A mile from hence up a runner is Sprinkling Tarn, noted by all anglers for its trout. Hence

Sca Fell Scafell Pikes SCAFELL PIKES

May be most conveniently ascended. The South Pike, which is three thousand and ninety-two feet in height, is most accessible from Wastdale or Eskdale. This aspiring pinnacle presents a more sublime and not less elegantly-varied range of mountains, dales, and sea views, than either Helvellyn or Skiddaw; a considerable part of the Lancashire, Cumberland, and Scotch coasts, with the Isle of Man and Snowdon in Wales being visible. The Pike which is three thousand one hundred and sixty feet in height on the north peak of the fell, commands a view of Windermere and Derwent lakes; and, upon the whole, presents a more com-

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Mickledore [com]plete panorama than any other point. These, though only twelve hundred yards in a direct distance, are separated by a chasm called the Mickle Door, costing a distance of two miles' sever travelling to overcome. Very little or rather no vegetation is to be seen on this fell; rocks, and large blocks of stone piled one upon another, are the principal features, and the geographicus lychnicus appears in particular beauty. The distance of Scafell from any house of entertainment, the rugged ground, and the danger of being caught in mists, prevent this mountain from being visited by any but hardy pedestrians, neither would we recommend such even to venture without a guide.

Wasdale Head WASTDALE.

The road is cut in a serpentine manner down the side of Great Gable, having Great End and the Pikes on the left. Over Lingmell Crags, the ground-work of the Pikes, is seen the deep, confined, and fruitful valley of Wastdale Head, with its chapel and half-dozen houses scattered upon a plain of meadow and corn-ground, divided into chequers by stone walls. Beyond, within a bed of steep rocky mountains of pure, unmixed, impenetrable sterility, is the long, narrow, stern, and desolate lake of Wast Water, to the head of which from these houses it is two miles. Refreshment may be had at any of these very respectable statesmen, and the tourist will not offend them by offer-

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[offer]ing a sufficient remuneration for their civility and trouble. Near their dwelling is the humble Chapel of Ease, past which a mountain track leads under Scafell by Burnmoor Tarn into Eskdale.

Wast Water WAST WATER

Is three miles and a half long, and three quarters of a mile broad, the depth is from forty to fifty fathoms, and it is probably owing to this, in proportion to the extent of its surface, that it has never been known to freeze. Trout in great quantities, and a few char, frequent its waters. The chief feeders are Over Beck on the south of Yewbarrow, and Nether Beck on the north of Middle fell, issuing from tarns near the Haycocks, and running through Bowderdale. The waters are discharged by the Irt at Ravenglass.

Being a border lake, its end lying in the low country, whilst its head is nestled in mountains, it appears from the foot to the greatest advantage, and is under that aspect most distinguished for sublimity. The mountains are naked to their base, their sides and summits are uniform, shooting up into lofty points, and ending in pyramidical forms. Looking upwards, Yewbarrow forms a fine apex; Kirkfell pushes forward its front to the left; and at the head of the dale, the Gable appears conspicuous. On the right, Lingmell comes finely forward, over which the Pikes of Scafell reign supreme. Up the side vale of Bowderdale, is the Haycock; and the

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The Screes Nether Wasdale Pillar crowns the head of Mosedale. Middle Fell runs along the margin of the lake; and on the opposite side are the Screes, which seem going to decay, their foundation in the water, and their surface and soil being gone, while immense debris and torrents of rocks and stones cover their sides. This range of fell prevents a circumambulation of the lake. Proceeding onwards, a retrospective view of Yewbarrow, the Gable, and the Pikes, seen over Over Beck Bridge, is a fine picture. From Nether Beck Bridge the road passes over a rising ground, and from a field in front of Crookhead, where a beautiful cottage has been built by Stansfield Rawson, Esq. of Halifax, is one of the finest views of Wastdale Head and Water. At the Strands, at Netherwasdale, is a comfortable inn, where entertainment may be had, set off with civility, and enhanced by economical charges.

Gosforth Cross Calder Bridge On the road to Calder Abbey, the antiquarian must perforce stop at Gosforth, which has a remarkably neat church, and in the churchyard a tall cross of British or Danish origin, sculptured on its four faces with various figures and devices. From hence, it is a good and pleasant road to Calder Bridge, where, at either of the two excellent inns, the weary traveller may rest for the night.

Calder Abbey CALDER ABBEY.

On the north side of the river, about a mile above the bridge, stand the sequestered ruins of the

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Abbey; and on the opposite side of the stream are the vestiges of a Roman encampment. From the Bridge Inn there is a sweetly-wooded walk along the banks of the stream, which presents several glimpses of the solemn ruins, the tower rising magnificently out of the massy foliage of the forest trees, by which it is now enveloped. Ranulph, son of the first Ranulph de Meschiens, founded this Abbey for Cisterican (sic) monks in 1134; its revenues at the dissolution amounted only to £64 3s. 9. None of the conventual buildings remain; Mr. Irwin's house most probably stands upon their site. The church was of the usual cross form. The south side of the nave is gone. The west door is good Norman, but plain. The nave consists of five arches in length, pointed, and the mouldings flat: all this part is richly covered with ivy. The centre tower stands on four pointed arches, supported by lofty piers. The east end of the choir is gone; it has had no lateral lights, but the walls are adorned with long slender pillars and niches; and on the south side are four circular niches, foliated, one being pierced as a door. There are the remains of cloisters on the south side, sufficient to show them to have been beautiful specimens of early English. There are some old monuments with recumbent figures. The grounds are kept in excellent order; the greensward is beautiful; and no noxious weeds are allowed to disfigure the precincts of this once-hallowed shrine.

Ponsonby Hall A short distance west from the inns, is Ponsonby

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Hall, standing in a noble park on the opposite side of the road, built about 1786, and remarkable for the elegance and convenience of its apartments. The gardens and walks on the woody banks of the Calder are beautiful; and the view by sea and land is extensive. Among many curious pieces of antiquity brought from Dalegarth Hall, in Eskdale, is a carved bedstead made about 1345, having the arms of the Austhwaite family quartered with the Stanleys. The Church stands in the park, and is a pretty stone building, well paved, and containing some stained glass brought from Dalegarth.

Calder Bridge to Cockermouth and Keswick It is usual for tourists to proceed direct over Copeland forest to Ennerdale Bridge and village, and thence by Lamplugh to Lowes Water; but we shall endeavour to carry them a more interesting route.

On the right, on pursuing the road, is the white village of Hale; and before you lies, in a fine agreeable vale, fertilized by the Ehen,

Egremont EGREMONT,

Egremont Castle With its ruined castle crowning the northern banks. The heights above the town conceal beneath their surface a productive iron mine. The bridge over the river, and the castle above it, form a romantic scene; indeed, the town and castle, from many points on the Ehen, displays pleasing assemblages of the picturesque. The castle, situated upon a rising ground, flanked on the south by the Ehen, was pro-

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[pro]bably built by William de Meschiens, first lord of the barony of Copeland, to which he was presented by his brother Ranulph, who held Cumberland and Westmorland under William the Conqueror. Little of it remains at present. The principal part is the keep. The arch of the gate-way is the horse-shoe arch, and its groining is by plain cross-springers. The outward wall has, from its base upwards, ten courses of herring-boned work. The other arches which remain are three in number, pointed and covered with ivy. But within these few years, this building has suffered more from wanton spoliation than from the ravages of time. There is nothing worth notice in the town; it is small, neat, and clean; the houses adjoining the market-place have many of them rude colonnades of wood in front, under which the corn is exposed for sale during rainy weather. The church, dedicated to Saint Mary, has been much modernized; the east end is circular in its centre, with flat wings, each containing two pointed windows, ornamented by a single shaft. The name of Egremont signifies the 'Mount of sorrow:' but it must not be confounded with Wotobank, which is two miles from the castle.

St Bees From Egremont it is four miles to Saint Bees; which is a long village reaching down the side of a ridge into a deep, contracted vale, which embraces in a semi-circular sweep the bold bluff heads. It is chiefly celebrated for its grammar-school, and for its abbey.

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St Bees Abbey ABBEY OF SAINT BEES.

The Abbey owes its first foundation, according to tradition, to a holy woman called Bega, who came over from Ireland in the year 650. This house did not escape the barbarous ravages of the Danes, for we find William, brother of Ranulph de Meschiens, re-establishing it as a cell for a Prior and six Benedictine monks, dependent on St. Mary's in York. Another great benefactor was William de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle. Its revenues at the dissolution were £149 19s. 6d. It was granted to Sir Thomas Chaloner, of York, but now belongs to the Earl of Lonsdale. The Abbey Church consists of a nave with aisles, used as the parish church, transepts, and choir, which has had a south aisle, and is at present fitted up for the Clerical Institution. The general style is early English, but the west front has a Norman door of imposing appearance, which is a plain bold specimen of that style, though much delapidated, from the nature of the stone and exposure to the sea blasts. The piers, five in number, that support the arches of the nave, are round, hexagonal, and clustered: this part is spoiled by the introduction of modern sash windows, quite out of character. The transepts, from the way in which they are appropriated, cannot well be examined. The interior arrangement at the east end of the choir is singular; three beautiful lancets rise from a string, the centre one being higher and

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wider, as is usually the case, and between each are two tiers of niches, one above the other, having clustered shafts and ornamental capitals, and a common dripstone runs round the whole. The north side of the choir is lighted by a series of lancets, having single shafts set on the sides, the interior shafts being plain, whilst the exterior are filleted. The tower, which rises at the intersection of the nave and choir with the transepts, is only a square in height; it has a modern embattled parapet, and a turret at the north-east angle. The choir and north transept are used as lecture-rooms for the Clerical Institution, and they are so fitted up as to prevent you from seeing their correct proportions. The library belonging to this establishment is not large, but select, and contains a beautiful full-length portrait of Dr. Ainger, presented by the students. There are some pretty views of the Abbey and parsonage from the meadows on the south, and the heights in descending to the village; but the best display of its architectural features is from the door of the grammar-school of Archbishop Grindal. The inscription over the door is laconically appropriate,

E. 1587 G. INGREDERE UT PROFICIAS.

Four miles will carry you from the quiet, studious cloisters of Saint Bees, into the midst of the bustling and commercial activity of Whitehaven. The piers and coal-pits are the chief objects of

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notice here. The Earl of Lonsdale has also a large mansion, called the Castle. The tourist from Dublin, Liverpool, or Glasgow, may land here and penetrate into the Lakes by way of Egremont, Gosforth, Wast Water, over the Stye Head into Borrowdale, and thence to Keswick or Ambleside.

Ennerdale Bridge From Egremont, however, we hasten onwards to Ennerdale, passing through Cleator, chiefly inhabited by those engaged in working the iron mines. The Church at this village, owing to its delapidated condition, is to be rebuilt forthwith. On the right, the river Ehen flows the whole way, occasionally appearing and disappearing, as it glides through brakes and bushes of alders and willows in its course from the lake of Ennerdale.

Ennerdale Water LAKE OF ENNERDALE.

This water is about two miles and a half long; near its foot is half a mile across, but towards the head it grows much narrower. It is well stocked with trout and an inferior kind of char. It is much secluded, difficult of access, and, consequently, rarely seen. The shores are bold and somewhat savage. The best scenery is between its foot and the side of the hill to the north, in descending from Floutern Tarn. Tourists generally rest satisfied with what may be seen in passing the lower end, on their progress to Buttermere, few liking to extend their journey into the dale. Pedestrians anxious to explore the recesses of the mountains, may pass along

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the eastern side from Ennerdale village: the view from How Hall, or Castle How, anciently the seat of the Patricksons, now belonging to the Senhouses, embraces the lake between Herd House and Bowness Knott on the left, and Angling Stone and Anglebarrow on the right, with the Steeple and Pillar between them. On the Smithy Beck, beyond Bowness, are some beautiful cascades. A mile and a half from the water is the lonely farm of Gillerthwaite; whence you may pursue the Liza (once the channel of a dreadful water-spout) in a course of five miles to its source in Great Gable, which lies at the head of the valley.

'A mountain-valley in its blessed breast Receives the stream, which their (sic) delights to lie, Untroubled and at rest, Beneath the untainted sky, Where in a lovely lake it seems to sleep.'

Scarth Gap Black Sail Pass On the left, it is possible to pass over the Scarf Gap into Buttermere; on the right, over the Black Sale, between Kirkfell and the Pillar, into the head of Mosedale, and thence to Wastdale Head. This water may also be approached from Buttermere Inn by Scale Force and Floutern Tarn; or from Scale Hill, through Mosedale, to Floutern Tarn; or by High Nook near Lowes Water, over Blake Fell, past the west end of Gavel Fell, to the village of Crossdale. These paths are mentioned rather with a view of informing the pedestrian tourist what is practicable, than of recommending such to his notice for adoption.

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Ennerdale Bridge At Ennerdale Bridge are two public-houses. The chapel is a small fabric, which was re-pewed in 1786; the thorn hedge which enclosed the burial-ground was removed in 1825, and a stone wall built: being six miles distant from the mother church of Saint Bees, it enjoys parochial privileges.

Lamplugh The road from Ennerdale by Lamplugh keeps the fells at some distance on the right, skirting their bases as it leads onwards. The irregular swells and lofty eminences seen in the immediate neighbourhood, are Blake Fell and Knockmurton. On the right is Lamplugh Hall, an ancient edifice situated at the foot of a lofty green hill, with an extensive view north and north-west. The church is an antique structure, near the principal gate-way leading to the hall, the residence of the family of Lamplugh, of known valour in the service of their country, but who became extinct in T. Lamplugh, who died at Copgrove, in Yorkshire, February 18th, 1783. Four or five miles further, on the left, but out of the way, is Eaglesfield, which we notice because once possessed by a family of that name, one of whom, Robert, was confessor to Queen Philippa, consort of Edward III, and founder of Queen's College, in Oxford.

Cockermouth COCKERMOUTH.

This is an ancient borough and market-town at the confluence of the Derwent and Cocker, which after flowing through Buttermere and Crummock,

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and through the vale of Lorton, loses its name in the elder, brother-stream. It is divided by the Cocker, the market-place, castle, and church, being on its eastern side. The two principal streets are spacious. The bridge over the Derwent consists of two arches, and is two hundred and seventy feet in length; the Cocker is spanned by one noble arch, one hundred and sixty feet long. and was built in 1828 at the cost of £2600. Besides being well watered by these fine rivers, it is intersected by small rivulets, which is a great convenience to the manufacturers, who produce cotton checks, ginghams, and coarse woollen goods. The whole place is very prosperous; the markets and fairs are numerously attended and well supplied. The borough returns two members to Parliament, and is also the nomination place for the western division of the county under the Reform Act, and was anciently the place of election for the whole county.

The church or chapel of ease, is dedicated to All Saints, and stands on an eminence at the top of Kirkgate. It has no pretensions to architectural beauty, but being enlarged in 1825, presents ample accommodation. The tower contains six bells, and a set of pleasing chimes. The parsonage was built in 1814 at the cost of £1300, defrayed by the Governors of Queen Anne's Bounty and the Earl of Lonsdale. The grammar-school in the church-yard was founded in 1676, by Lord Wharton, Bishop Smith, and others; a library containing valuable books in divinity is attached to it. There are also

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alms-houses and charitable societies for different purposes; neither is that most useful of all wanting, a dispensary. The late Earl of Egremont, with his wonted munificence, presented the sum of £2000 to the inhabitants, to be disposed of for the benefit of the town. It has accordingly been applied in the erection of a convenient and handsome market-place.

Cockermouth Castle The castle stands on a bold elevation, strong by nature, between the Derwent and the Cocker, where it was built soon after the conquest, by Waldieve, first lord of Allerdale. It forms an irregular square, inclosed by strong walls, and defended at the entrance by a portcullis, drawbridge, and moat. On each side of the gate-way leading to the interior court is a deep dungeon. The south-west front, of which much still remains, stood on the brink of the precipice above the rivers, where appears to have been the state-room, and other apartments in the great tower. Under this tower is a vault thirty feet square, lighted by a small grated window, and approached by a descent of twelve steps, the roof upheld up by a single octagonal pillar, which branches out into ribs supporting the groining. This castle was kept in repair till the civil war, when it was reduced by the Parliamentarian forces and dismantled; since then it has lain in ruins, with the exception of the gate-house and the court-house at the east angle, which are kept in repair for the occasional residence of the lord of the manor. There is a bowling-green within

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the walls. The gate-way tower is ornamented with the arms of the Umfranvilles, Multons, Lucies, Percies, and Nevilles, for to all these families this fortress has by turns belonged; the main body is covered with ivy, and with the walls and other towers forms a good study. On the margin of the Derwent is a plain of considerable extent, in which is a public walk beautifully terminated by lofty cliffs, covered with trees - at the other by the ruins of the castle impending over the river, whose opposite banks are diversified by tillage. Indeed, the country round the town is pleasantly varied with hill and dale, wood and water. The Globe is the chief inn, and is most respectably conducted. The Sun and the Apple Tree inns may be mentioned.

Papcastle Before leaving this town, the village of Papcastle, crowning the ridge on the northern banks of the Derwent, should be visited. Many of the houses are genteel and commodious; but above the village is the site of a Roman Castrum, where a great variety of coins, urns, inscriptions, and remains of baths, have been found. It subsequently became the seat of the first lords of Allerdale, before they transferred themselves to the more advantageous position occupied by Cockermouth Castle.

Bridekirk font As Bridekirk is only two miles distant, the antiquarian tourist ought to spare time for the purpose of inspecting the rare and curious Font in the parish church.

The new road from Cockermouth to Bassen-

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[Bassen]thwaite lies through the cultivated vale of Embleton, stretching at a short distance in a direction parallel to that through which the Derwent flows. There is nothing very interesting for a few miles, till the traveller obtains a view of the lake, with the lordly Skiddaw looming over it, his head most probably graced with a tiara of clouds. After descending a hill, the road winds through a narrow dale, with moderate eminences on either side clothed with wood, till it reaches the water's edge: at this point there is spread out before the eyes a sweet view of Armathwaite Hall, the residence of Sir -- Vane, with its trees, single or in clumps, sprinkled over the sloping lawns, the rising grounds behind enrobed with forests, and the silvery lake filling the middle of the picture.

Bassenthwaite Lake BASSENTHWAITE WATER

Is four miles in length, and in some places almost one mile in breadth. Lying on the edge as it were of the mountain district, it is not viewed with the same interest as the others, being less in magnitude and inferior in beauty and grandeur. It has no islands. Its western side is bounded by the Wythop Woods and Lord's Seat, which approach close to the water's brink. Its eastern side is indented by several pretty bays and promontories, as Bradness and Scarness, which present excellent views, and rich cultivated grounds occupy the space between the margin of the lake and the lofty Skiddaw with

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his Dodd; on the south are the flats irrigated by the Derwent, its main feeder; and on the north are the beautiful park-grounds of Armathwaite Hall with Binsey behind. Pike and perch are its principal fish, and salmon pass through to deposit their spawn in the Derwent.

Wythop Woods Haws The road passing through the woods of Wythop, which are too thick and umbrageous, though affording here and there partial views of the lake and Skiddaw, we should recommend going round the foot of the lake, and passing by its eastern side to Keswick. The tourist must ascend the road as it rises up the hill, leading towards Ireby, and when immediately above the Haws village, he will have the whole vale below on the right hand, a scene of rich cultivation waving with the golden harvest, the lake stretching along, gleaming and flashing under the dark woods of Wythop; houses, hamlets, woods, and the far-spreading landscape, fading away in the blue mountains heaped together about the head of Derwent Water. This is a view for beauty, grandeur, and magnificence, which has not its superior. From the same point, looking westward, a different prospect is beheld, one almost entirely rural - the vale of Embleton divided from the vale of Derwent, and each swelling out into eminences scarcely aspiring to be hills, and adorned with joyful crops, laughing under the ripening beams of a glowing sun. The descent is rapid down to the Haws, a village watered by a stream called White Water Dash, and issuing from the north side of Skiddaw. The bridge is uncommonly pictu-

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Millbeck [pictu]resque, and indeed the artist may here enrich his portfolio with several choice studies. A chapel of ease is placed here, totally devoid of a single charm. Follow the higher road of the two, to Keswick, because its elevation gives a greater command over the details of the valley, and a peep of the lake. You come into the low road, where a branch leads off to the church, which is old and was built about 1471, on the margin of the lake, not far from the promontories of Bradness and Scarness. On the direct road to Keswick, on the right, is Mirehouse, the seat of J. Spedding, Esq. enveloped in woods. The upper end of Bassenthwaite has been said to bear some resemblance to the Lake of Como. It may be worth while to divert to Millbeck, which is situated on the left in one of those deep gullies in the front of Skiddaw. Derwent Water is seen from it to great advantage, with some pleasing foregrounds that are not always to be had, at least such as are suitable and appropriate. Hence to Keswick the return is through the open vale. From the stone stile leading over the fields, the church, with the Newlands mountains behind, is a pleasing object.

Keswick to Buttermere The next ramble we shall take is not so extensive, and is comprehended within the last, like a small circle in a larger, touching only at the common point at Keswick.

Passing over the same ground, then, till he reaches Rosthwaite, the observant tourist will discover many new objects to amuse that had escaped

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Seatoller his notice on the former occasion, even if the weather should produce no alteration in the aspect of the scenery. From this village, instead of proceeding on to Seathwaite, we shall turn sharp on the right up to Seatoller, a small hamlet seated on the mountain's side, in a recess, filled with oak, ash, birch, and larch. From a picturesque wooden bridge, appears in retrospect the mountains at the head of Watendlath and Wythburn, Rosthwaite, Camcoom Head, and Glaramara. The top of this road, which is not passable for carriages, is eight hundred and eighty feet above the Derwent.

Honister Pass Honister Crag On the right is Yew Crag Quarry: on the left that stupendous precipice, Honistar Crag, rises sheer out of the valley to the height of one thousand six hundred feet, on which are extensive blue-slate quarries. The river that runs through to the lake - 'in light and clouds it has its mortal birth' - is as wild as the valley itself, having no banks but such as are formed of fragments of rocks - no bed, but a channel composed of rocky strata, among which the water forces its course. Lower down is a view of Buttermere, with High Street and High Crag in the distance. The sheep farm-house and others called Gatesgarth, stand at the end of Honistar Crag, half a mile from the head of the lake, which is here seen under the Hay Stacks, High Stile, and Red Pike, with the wooden bridge between Buttermere and Crummock, and the inn. From this hamlet are several fine views of the Lakes. Hasness is on the banks of

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Buttermere, whence it is a mile to the inn, which is more closely and deeply entrenched in mountains than any other.

Buttermere BUTTERMERE

Is a mile and a quarter long, half a mile broad, and about fifteen fathoms in depth. It is situated in a valley of its own name, and is encompassed by superb rocky mountains. Buttermere Moss and Robinson bound it on the east; the Hay Stacks, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike, on the west; and the north end or outlet is separated from Crummock Water by a fertile plain of meadows.

The chapel of ease is a small ancient building, scarcely capable of holding more than two score souls. 'A man must be very insensible who would not be touched with pleasure at the site of this chapel, so strikingly expressing by its diminutive size, how small must be the congregation there assembled,as it were, like one family; and proclaiming at the same time to the passenger, in connection with the surrounding mountains, the depth of that seclusion in which the people live that has rendered necessary the building of a separate place of worship for so few. The edifice is scarcely larger than many of the single stones or fragments of rock which are scattered near it.'

Scale Force Scale Force is often visited from Buttermere. From the inn there is a foot-path, but over very swampy ground; it is, therefore, better to take a

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boat and row down Crummock Lake about a mile; on landing, a rugged path brings you to it.

'It springs at once, with sudden leap, Down from the immeasurable steep, From rock to rock, with shivering force rebounding, The mighty cataract rushes.'

This is the deepest fall, the water being hurled downwards in one clear leap of one hundred and fifty-six feet, next, in another forty-four feet. The chasm into which the waters sink, is from twelve to twenty feet in width, and is between two walls of sienite, beautifully covered with trees, which have fixed their roots in the interstices, whilst the sides are clad with a profusion of plants. The coolness and dampness are very great, and will soon warn the tourist from this stupendous scene.

Crummock Water CRUMMOCK LAKE

Is three miles in length, three quarters of a mile in breadth, and twenty-two fathoms in depth. This lake abounds in trout and char, and receives its main supply of water from Buttermere, from which it is parted by low flat meadows, that are little more than half a mile in breadth. Melbreak rises abruptly on the west side; Rannerdale Knott forms a bold promontory projecting from Buttermere Hawse, which advances up to Grasmire and Whiteside, that close it on the east. Its waters flow out by the Cocker under a pretty bridge. It has three small islands, one a rock, the other covered

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with wood, but being too near the shore, they add nothing to its beauty.

Buttermere Hause The best general views are from Buttermere Hawse on the east, and from the road between Scale Hill and Lowes Water. But the mountains of this vale, and those at the head of Newlands, are nowhere so impressive as from the bosom of this lake, some of the loftiest rising from its very margin. The middle part of the lake presents the utmost grandeur. In passing along the eastern side of this water to the inn of Scale Hill, after leaving the hamlet of Langthwaite Green, the tourist has a fine view of the rural and cultivated vale of Lorton, with the Cocker winding its way along a rocky channel, sparkling with numerous cascades, between banks fringed with wood. The vale is about three miles in length, bounded by lofty mountains, and is a parochial chapelry under Brigham.

Scale Hill Scale Hill is a commodious inn, where boats may be had, and from whence Lowes Water may be most conveniently visited.

Lowes Water LOWES WATER

Is a narrow lake, extending more than a mile in length, and from five to ten fathoms in depth. It is tame at its head, the water being bordered with little cultivated estates, the dwelling-houses in the centre, and the green enclosures lying around; but when viewed in the contrary direction, it presents a magnificent assemblage of mountains at its outlet,

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where its waters flow out, passing the Hamlet into Crummock Water. The mountains that lie around are high and rocky, rising abruptly from their bases, and assuming conical forms. The declivities are covered with brushwood and scattered trees, adding greatly to the romantic and diversified scenery of the country.

The stranger may proceed to Cockermouth through Lorton, or return by Whitehaven, or retracing his ground to Buttermere chapel, pass through Newlands.

Whinlatter Pass The road over Whinlatter presents some grand views of Bassenthwaite and Derwent Water, Grisdale Pike keeping you company on the right for some distance. On the top of the road, Thornthwaite village and Jenkin Hill, flanked right and left by Longside and Dodd, and Thornthwaite Fell, with Bassenthwaite Water overtopped by Binsey, is the first prospect that stops you. A little further on, Derwent Water, with Vicar's Island, Lord's Island, the Isthmus, and Keswick, are seen lying beneath Wallow Crag, Falcon Crag, and Bleabury Fell; over which rise Skiddaw, Saddleback, Mell Fell, Wanthwaite Crag, St. John's Dodd, Stybarrow Dodd, Styx, and Helvellyn. The road proceeds through Braithwaite to Keswick.

Newlands Valley NEWLANDS.

The road through Newlands leaves the chapel of Buttermere, and advances by a very steep and

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Newlands Hause long ascent between Robinson and Whiteless Hill. These mountains present nothing but endless grassy slopes, which is the characteristic of the scenery all the way till you get down to Keskadale, the first houses in Newlands. The views in this valley are chiefly of a rural description, adorned with all the beauties of luxuriant nature, and decorated with wood. The mountains are beautiful and picturesque in their forms, generally green to their summits, looking down upon comfortable houses, seated amid enclosures of emerald verdancy, irrigated and refreshed by gentle streams, now lost amidst the luxuriant growth of leafy trees, now betraying themselves by their bright sparkling. On the right, a fine branch of this vale extends to Dale Head, guarded on the south by Maiden Moor and High Crag, on the north by Goldscope and Hindsgarth. At Stony Croft Bridge the road turns on the left to Cockermouth; and at Stair Mill is the way to Newlands chapel, which is under Crossthwaite. A rude bridge here forms a picture with Causey Pike. The traveller will now get a pretty glimpse of Bassenthwaite, screened by Barrow and Swinside, with Caer Mot in the distance. Between Foe Park and Swinside is a retrospective view, beautiful and grand, of Newlands. Through Portinscale we shall again arrive at Keswick, of which we must now prepare ourselves to take leave.

Keswick to Carlisle Hence we shall proceed to Carlisle and its neighbourhood, returning through the vale of Eden to Penrith. The stranger, however, who has not

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time for this lengthened excursion may pass directly to Penrith. The little deviation on the left, avoiding the barren waste of Hutton Moor for the purpose of seeing Greystoke Castle and church, will amply repay him: it is the residence of H. Howard, Esq. to whom it was bequeathed by the late Duke of Norfolk.

Threlkeld Mungrisdale Four miles and a half from Keswick on the Penrith road, is Threlkeld, an irregular built village, on the south side of Blencathra, with a fine view up the vale of Wanthwaite; the chapel is dedicated to Saint Mary, and is in the parish of Greystoke. At Scales, the tourist must turn off under Souter Fell along the bye-road, not very passable for carriages, though it is formed on a terrace, and completely overlooks the valley, through which winds the Glenderamaken; a small stream trickling out of a dreary waste is seen joining it; its banks are fringed with wood and enclosures, chiefly corn-fields spotted with farm-steads, and spread a short distance on each side, overlooked by White Pike; and in the west, the mountains beyond Keswick rise in majestic array. Souter fell has acquired some notoriety as having been the scene of meteorological appearances, which were observed some considerable time back. In an opening between it and Bowscale Fell, through which the Glenderamaken flows from Scales Tarn, is Mungrisdale, where is a chapel of the usual oblong form, with a bell-gable and porch: this is a miserable situation, and seems to be exposed to all the winds of heaven, being placed exactly

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Bowscale Mosedale at the elbow of that mountain mass which comprehends Skiddaw and Blencathra as its summits, and the Dodd, Carrick and High Pike, Bowscale, and Souter Fell, as the buttresses. The water-mill, and the green-swelling conical fells behind, form a pretty enough picture. At Bowscale, in the gorge of another opening, the road crosses the Caldew, where it issues out from its birth-place in the wild and solitary regions of Skiddaw Forest, solitary in all but its abundance of grouse, which is strictly preserved by the Earl of Egremont, the lord of the manor. Mossdale, where there is a Quakers' meeting-house, at the foot of Carrick Fell, is not more pleasantly situated than Grisdale; indeed, the tourist now comes upon a portion of country wild and desolate in the extreme, yet interesting to the geologist. On the left is Carrick Fell, its front strewed with immense masses of rock and rivers of debris which encroach on the way below: on the right is a dismal swamp of peat-moss, bounded by the heavy uniform ridge of Greystoke Park on the east side. After toiling over the common for five miles, leaving this dreary scene, you descend for a mile through a lane bordered with fertile lands and hedge-rows planted with trees, amongst which the blue curling smoke betrays at intervals the low-roofed cottages and farm-steads. Almost at the end of this lane you pass another Friends' meeting-house and cemetery, placed in a scene of quiet and peaceful solitude. A wild brook washes across the road, and with the wooden bridge for foot-passen-

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[foot-passen]gers and the little cascade below, is a pleasing feature at the entrance of the neat little town of Hesket-New-Market, agreeably seated in the open vale. The Old Hall, much modernized, stands on the right as you leave the town for Caldbeck.

Caldbeck This is a large straggling village; the houses seem to have been dropped down without order or connexion over the wide rambling valley at the foot of High Pike and Carrick. The church, standing on the brink of the Caldbeck, is a very ancient structure, dedicated to Saint Kentigern, and bearing date 1ll2 (sic). On the stream which pours down from High Pike through this village, is that striking curiosity,

The Howk River Caldew THE HOWK,

Which is a deep waterfall in the bed of the river, over which is a natural bridge of limestone rock. Under this bridge the stream rushes with great impetuosity, and dashing along over rugged rocks, it empties itself into a basin boiling in whirling eddies, covered with foam. The intertwining branches of oak, ash, and hazel, intercepting the sun's rays, throw a dense gloom over the recess even at noon-day; whilst the long dark weeds and matted grass hang over the wave-worn rock in rich festoons, interlaced with bright green ferns. On one side is a deep excavation called the Fairy's Kettle, the receptacle in time of floods of another cascade that falls about twenty yards down perpendicular rocks:

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a little to the right of which is a cavern eighteen yards long, called the Fairy Kirk, in which the noise of the cataract has an imposing effect: this and the Kettle, which is then filled, are inaccessible at high floods. The finest approach to this interesting scene is, by permission, up the north side of the ravine, which is feathered with wood. The bridges over this water further down, the church, and the rectory, form some good pictures.

Warnell Fell The road hence leads over Warnell Fell, having on the right the Hall, once the seat of the Dentons, now belonging to Lord Lonsdale, built on a hill-side, profusely scattered over with wood, and its base laved by the Caldew. Welton on the top of the hill, enjoys an extensive prospect of what is generally allowed to be one of the pleasantest vales in the county, that of Sebergham.

Rose Castle ROSE CASTLE

The pedestrian, indeed, might pass down as far as Rose Castle by the banks of the river, a route that would greatly enhance his pleasure; but the tourist who possesses the accommodation of a carriage, must be content with a passing look of the vale as he proceeds along the heights, down which the road presently descends to Rose Castle, the episcopal seat of the Bishop of Carlisle. The Honourable and Right Reverend Hugh Percy has nearly re-edified the whole castle, which, from having been repaired at different times, according

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to the prevalent taste in architecture, had assumed an appearance incongruous with its original castellated style. The castle presents a fine mass of towers built on the north side of the vale, surrounded by hanging gardens that rise, terrace above terrace, up to the level lawn on which it stands. The keep, or Strickland's Tower, is a little detached, and partially covered with ivy. The entrance-hall between Bell's Tower, almost concealed by creepers, and Percy's Tower, which is quite modern, contains the grand staircase of carved English oak, the bannisters ornamented with roses and shields alternately, leading to the chapel and drawing-room. The chapel is lighted by a row of windows on its south front, and is most chastely fitted up with oaken stalls and wainscotting. The reading-desk and pulpit are of the same substantial materials; and across the west end extends a series of beautiful niches with elegant canopies, under one of which is the bishop's seat. The dining-room and library are on the ground floor; the latter is a fine apartment, elegantly and simply fitted up with oaken cases. The fire-places throughout are all of chiselled stone, richer or simpler in their designs according to the uses of the apartment. The new portions were designed by Mr. Rickman, under the immediate superintendence of the Right Reverend Bishop, to whose intimate acquaintance with architecture is owing the absence of every thing that could offend the most correct and fastidious taste. The square embattled towers rise magnifi-

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[magnifi]cently out of the noble forest trees, by which they are partly surrounded and sheltered. The approach is through an old archway covered with ivy. The oaks and Scotch firs are splendid, and with the meadows, the wooded hill, and the distant Fell of Carrick, unite with the castle in producing scenery rarely equalled for amenity and splendour.

Dalston Proceeding onwards, Holm Hill is on the right. Not far from it is Hawksdale Hall, once the residence of Nicholson the antiquarian, who, in conjunction with Chancellor Burn, wrote a History of Cumberland and Westmorland, which no subsequent publications have as yet superseded. At Oaks, the tourist cannot but admire the remaining lordly oak that, with another, gave name to the house. Here the vale of Dalston opens out to view, presenting a scene of mixed fertility and desolation, caused by the excessive rapidity and violence of the Caldew's swollen waters. This village, or rather knot of villages, is populous, being the seat of busy cotton manufactories. The church is a plain building, consisting of a nave, chancel, and south transept. The bell-gable is curious. The chancel has been lately repaired in the most tasteful manner by the Lord Bishop, who is patron and impropriator. The walk hence along the wooded banks of the river Caldew to Carlisle is charming.

Dalston Hall Following, however, the high road, the only object to be noticed is Dalston Hall, now used as a farm-house. It has a venerable look of olden times: the outline is varied with turrets and battlements.

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Just below the parapet is a cornice ornamented with stone cannon, in imitation of the early invented ones, formed of bars of iron welded together, or rings twisted. It has long passed from the family of that name. A fine avenue of trees leads up to it, and commands, from the rising ground, an extensive and beautiful prospect of Dalston, the vale, the woods of Rose, and the distant fells. The traces of a Roman encampment are observable in front. Hence the city of Carlisle is in sight the whole way, till you enter it by the suburbs of Shaddongate.

Carlisle CARLISLE.

The limits of this work will not allow of a large and minute description, but only of such particulars as shall appear to be most interesting to the lake tourist.

The city has lost many objects of antiquity, and wears as neat, clean, and stately an aspect, as any within the Borders. It stands on a gentle eminence in the midst of an extensive plain, watered by the Petteril and Caldew, which here unite with the Eden, and from their banks as foregrounds join in pleasing combinations with the distant city. Approach it as you may, it is seen to great advantage. From the south, after passing through the suburbs of Botchergate, adorned with the new edifice of Christ Church, the entrance is between the Court-houses, impressing the stranger with the not im-

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[im]probable idea that he is entering through the bastions of a fortified city. The entrance from the west is graced by Trinity Church of Gothic architecture, while admiration is excited by the Infirmary, a noble Doric building, and in front frown the ramparts and massy keep of the Castle. The road from Glasgow approaches the city from Stanwix Bank, where the east or Newcastle road joining it, they pass into the town over the substantial bridge crossing the Eden. From the Newcastle road is presented the most picturesque view: the meadows and woods of Rickerby, the bridges, and over them the castle and cathedral, are the most striking objects.

The city is well supplied with public walks lying around in various directions: these the tourist should by all means perambulate, particularly those on the northern banks of the river, along which passed the Roman Wall. From Etterby Scar, lying on this side of the river, a mile down the stream, is perhaps the most extensive and lovely. On the brink of the precipice the stranger takes his stand. At his feet roll the rapid waters of the Eden, which he sees forming a large semicircular sweep. Full in front over a beautiful level tract of meadow, intersected by the Caldew and partially divided by hedge-rows, lies the city, the long high roof and square tower of the cathedral crowning its highest ground. The castle, with its towers, and walls, and buttresses, occupies the whole centre. On the right are the suburbs of Caldewgate, the church, the canal basin,

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and shipping, with the Infirmary: and over all, far away, are seen the range of mountains, amongst which we have been so long roaming, Helvellyn just discernible, Blencathra peeping over the Stack between Carrick Fell and High Pike, beyond which towers the noble Skiddaw. On the left again of the cathedral, lies the densest part of the city, in whose serrated ridge may be distinguished Saint Cuthbert's Church, and the Town Hall, the round towers of the Court Houses, and the slender spire of Christ Church, in Botchergate. Over the lengthened bridge is a tract of rich land, sprinkled with farm-steads and seats; and beyond the woods of Corby, the eastern fells terminating in the distant but aspiring Crossfell. Nearer at hand, the high banks are enlivened with the ancient village of Stanwix and the hamlet of Etterby. By moving into the field behind, and looking in the contrary direction, the panorama is completed, from Criffel rising in azure over the long silvery tide of the Solway, which is visible, Burnswark, and the distant range of Scotch mountains, to the crags, bounding the wastes of Gilsland and Bewcastle.

Carlisle Castle The Castle is at the north-west corner of the city, on a bold eminence overlooking the river Eden. It was begun in the reign of William Rufus, since which it has undergone many changes, and been the scene of various historical occurrences. At present it consists of a large area, surrounded by strong walls, entered through an embattled gateway, in which the portcullis still frowns, and within

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are various buildings for infantry. An inner area was originally defended by a half-moon battery, now removed, though the gate-way remains, through which is the approach to the great keep, at present used as an armoury. The angular tower in which Mary of Scotland was imprisoned, has, after having been appropriated to barracks, lately been taken down. This fortress is now used as the depôt of an infantry regiment, and a small detachment of artillerymen are stationed to take care of the armoury. There is something very interesting in its appearance, and it is chiefly valuable as a massy feature, giving character to the distant appearance of the city.

Carlisle Cathedral The Cathedral is a noble building, deprived, indeed, of the greatest part of its nave. What remains is of ever-enduring Norman architecture, with low round pillars and circular arches; it is now very neatly fitted up as the parish church of St. Mary. The transepts are narrow, without aisles, and of the same style; from the south end the cloisters originally extended; the north transept is used as the consistory court. The choir is supported on clustered piers, with enriched capitals, from which spring eight pointed arches; above is an elegant triforium of three openings, and a clerestory, which once had a rich parapet, pierced with foliated circles, but wantonly destroyed. The tabernacle work or stalls is of very elegant carved oak, black with age. The pulpit and throne are modern, and not so rich in design. The roof is

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vaulted in stucco, with cross springers. The east window is by far the finest decorated window in the kingdom; it consists of nine lights, and the head is filled with the richest flowing tracery conceivable; it is, however, painful to add,that it is in a state of rapid decay. The north and south aisles of the choir are similar in character, and terminated by windows of two lights. Beneath the sill of the aisle windows a row of beautiful niches is continued all round. In the north aisle Dr. Paley lies buried - a fine mural monument simply recording his name and age. In the choir, Bishops Law and Smith are interred, both eminent in their generation. The prevailing style of the choir is early English, the east end being decorated. The entrance into the Abbey is under an ancient gate-way, having a circular arch, round which is an inscription purporting its having been built by Christopher Slee, Prior. Within the precincts are the deanery and prebendal houses, the fratry, and register office. The deanery contains, in its square tower built by Prior Senhouse, a fine apartment used as a drawing-room, whose ceiling is worthy of inspection: it is of oak, carved in square pannels, the intersecting knots being highly adorned, and the whole painted in different colours, with armorial bearings emblazoned on shields, and mottoes scattered about. The fratry or refectory of the ancient priory is now used as the chapter-room; the south front is lighted by a row of elegantly-proportioned windows of the Tudor style, the op-

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[op]posite wall is ornamented with three niches, whose crocketted canopies are delicately chiselled and supported by slender pillars. In this building is a curious stone chair, having an impanelled foliated ceiling, called the confessional. From the Abbey the Cathedral is seen in the best point of view; a low, square, and embattled tower rises over the intersection of the cross. The east end cannot be viewed but in pieces: its centre is filled by the magnificent window, on each side of which rise buttresses with crocketted pinnacles; the gable is adorned with crosses, and its blank space filled with a right angled spherical window. The design of this front is one of grandeur; the great size of the window, the boldness of the buttresses, and the richness of the crockets, crosses, and finials, unite in rendering it the admiration of all. The north side of the Cathedral forms a fine street-scene, with row of trees around its church-yard wall, which has lately been rebuilt and surmounted by cast-iron rails, the very elegant design for which was handsomely furnished by R. W. Billings, Esq.

The Church of St. Cuthbert is a plain modern building. Trinity Church, in Caldewgate, and Christ Church, are new, having been lately built by the aid of subscriptions from the inhabitants and from the Church Building Commissioners. The former is of the Tudor, the latter of early English architecture, and both have spires, rising from square towers, though in a different manner.

At the head of Castle-street, near the Market-

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[Market-]place stands that excellently-conducted inn and posting-house, the Crown and Mitre Hôtel and Coffee House, better known by its latter name. Opposite the Bush Inn, which is also well-known on the road as a superior posting-house and hôtel, stands the News-room and Library, built by private subscription, from the designs of Mr. Rickman, who was also architect for the churches. The County Gaol and Court-houses were designed by Smirke. One of the circular towers forms the Nisi Prius Court; the other, connected with the prison, the Crown Court. The prison is on the radiated plan, the governor's house being in the centre, and communicating by means of galleries with the different wards. The Infirmary, near the canal, will repay the walk, besides the fresh views of the town gained in this direction. It is built on a very convenient plan, and has a centre portico of four large Doric pillars, supporting a pediment. The merits of its situation have been a subject of much dispute; but what is still worse, owing to litigation between the contractor and the building committee, although finished in 1832, it was not opened for the reception of patients until nine years thereafter.

The city of Carlisle has a police establishment, is lighted with gas, and is under the municipal control of a corporation, composed of mayor, aldermen, and common councilmen. It returns two members to Parliament, and is now the nomination place for the eastern division of the county.

It is a place of great manufacturing bustle,

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chiefly in cotton, hats, and whips. The cotton trade gives employment to numbers of persons engaged in spinning and hand-loom weaving. The markets are well supplied with almost every thing that can gratify the palate of the gourmand, and rates so low as to render it, in these respects, a very desirable place of residence for persons of limited fortune, but accustomed to luxurious indulgences. The Grammar School, founded by Bishop Smith, affords an opportunity of obtaining an economical English and classical education. With regard to institutions for promoting the education of the poor, supplying their necessities, whether in food, or medicine, or medical attendance, the Infirmary, the Dispensary, and House of Recovery, the National School, the Lancastrian School, and others, fully attest that Carlisle is no whit behind the most favoured towns. It is also an excellent place whence conveyance may be obtained to all parts of the kingdom; mails daily leave the city for Portpatrick and Belfast, Glasgow, Edinburgh, and London by way of Leeds and Manchester; besides several other stage-coaches. The Newcastle and Carlisle Railway offers opportunities four times a-day of travelling between those places; and from the canal basin, a swift fly-boat conveys passengers to Bowness on the Solway, whence they can be comfortably and safely conveyed to Liverpool either by the Royal Victoria or Newcastle steam-packets, in a single tide.

East from Carlisle, and to Penrith We shall now proceed from Carlisle in an east-

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Crosby Hadrian's Wall Kingwater [east]erly direction by the military way leading to Brampton: this road runs parallel to the Roman Wall, which lies rather more to the north or left hand, along a higher ridge of land. The first village you pass through is Crosby, whose plain unpretending church stands by the way-side. Two miles further, at a cross-road, is a Roman Castrum, planted with fir-trees. Leaving the main road here, and passing down this lane, you will shortly open upon the circular, rural, and well-cultivated vale, of which Irthington and its church form pretty features. Round sandy knowes jut into the plain, watered by Irthing and Kirkcambeck streams, and the surrounding banks are planted with wood. The nave of the church, which has been originally larger, is separated from the chancel by a noble Norman aisle, sadly disfigured, however, by being wretchedly painted in imitation of blue marble. In this church-yard lies buried Richard Bowman, who lived to be one hundred and eighteen years old, retaining the use of his faculties to the last. Hence after crossing the water of Kirkcambeck, the tourist will pass in front of the elegant and modern residence of Walton House, belonging to William Ponsonby Johnson, Esq. built on the side of the Roman Casteads (sic). Several Roman remains dug up at this station are preserved here. A little further stands the village of Walton, on the line of the wall, as its name denominates. From hence the road descends to Kingwater, over which there is a long wooden bridge; this water rises in a dreary waste; its

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banks are fertile, but the ridges which bound it on the north, or separate it from the Irthing, parallel to which it flows for some distance, are naked, cold, and uninviting. A sudden turn down the hill, on top of which the traveller has been proceeding for a mile or two, presents the sweet smiling Holm of St. Mary. On the right, fine woods clothe the swelling ridges which die away in the meadows below, in the midst of which, rising from among majestic elms, are seen the venerable ruins of Lanercost Abbey, backed by the woods that slope down from the baronial castle of Naworth to the clear murmuring streams of the Irthing.

Lanercost Priory LANERCOST ABBEY.

The grey ruins of Lanercost, approached through the remains of a gateway covered with ivy, stand a little distance from the Irthing on its northern banks, in the green holms of St. Mary. This Monastery was founded in 1116, by Robert de Vallibus, for monks of the order of St. Augustine, chartered in the sixteenth year of Henry II, A.D. 1169, and dedicated by Bernard, Bishop of Carlisle, to Mary Magdalene.

The church consists of a nave with north aisle, transepts with aisles east of them, used as monumental chapels and choir. The western front is one of great beauty and simplicity; a magnificent door, pointed and of many mouldings, fills the lowest compartment; above it runs a string of

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elegant niches, then seven long tall lancets fill the whole length of the front, having the alternate ones only pierced for lights; in the gable is a niche containing a statute of the Virgin and Child, and on each side, shields charged with the armorial cognizances of the Abbey and the Dacres, and the top is crowned by the fragments of a beauteous cross. The nave is fitted up as the parish church, and is lighted by a row of eight clerestory windows; these have the toothed ornament, the only kind used, which, with the cornice that runs round the whole building, give a rich appearance to the general plan of the exterior. The low Norman tower rising about a square in height above the roof, is supported by massive angular piers. The transepts and choir are unroofed, and suffered to go to decay. The opposite sides of the choir are different in their architecture, and the transepts respectively partake of it. Tall circular piers, with only the clerestory windows above, is the disposition of the south side; whilst the north has low massive circular piers, and a triforium as well as clerestory. The east end is lighted by two tiers of lancet windows, three in each; this and the south side are now profusely covered with ivy and mountain ashes; wall-flowers wave over the other parts, and diffuse their fragrance in the air. There are several monuments in this part of the church belonging to the Dacres, to whom the Abbey lands fell at the dissolution, and to the Howards, their successors. Two of the monuments belonging to the Dacres are under ogee

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canopies, and ornamented with quatrefoils and shields of arms. The Howards are more gorgeously decorated with all the insignia of armorial blazonry. Unfortunately little care has been taken of these splendid tombs; the long dank grass, and weeds and moss, are fast defacing these proud memorials of the haughty barons, once lords of this beautiful domain.

The cloisters run parallel with the south side of the conventual church, and have been connected with it. The groining is early English, with cross springers diverging from a row of piers running up the middle, and from pilasters on the sides. The dormitory which was above, is now a garden, so that there is a constant dropping and dampness below. There are some Roman antiquities which have been found in the neighbourhood, preserved here. Of the remainder of the conventual buildings, we may observe a square tower, with square mullioned windows, three stories in height, which was erected, or at least considerably repaired, in the sixteenth century, by the bastard Dacre for his residence. Another tower, with the Tudor flower in the cornice, forms part of the residence of the present aged curate of Lanercost. In the church-yard is the recumbent effigy of a knight, having the hands clasped on the breast.

This Abbey forms fine pictures from the grounds of Naworth and the surrounding woods. The best near view is from the corner of the area in which it stands, under the wide-spreading elms; hence the

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west front, the north side, and north transept, are presented, conveying an idea of magnitude and grandeur to the beholder, which no other point of view gives. The east end with the north transept again, is another noble picture from amidst the numerous tombs of the church-yard.

There is a decent inn at the bridge, where refreshment may be procured. From the bridge, which crosses the river by two bold arches, a public carriage-road leads through the park to

Naworth Castle NAWORTH CASTLE.

Here, however, we should recommend the carriage to be sent up to the Castle, while the stranger pursues the banks of the Irthing by a footpath which leads to the right from the river up a deep ravine, whose steep sides wave with aged woods. The oaks are splendid, and the grey turrets and battlements of the Castle, seen in combination with them, impress the mind with feelings of solemn grandeur.

A short distance in front of the keep is a circular bastion or barbican. The keep stands a little in advance of the main body of the Castle, and over the archway are carved in bold relief the armorial bearings of the family. The Castle forms a complete quadrangle, the front being an extended curtain, battlemented, and connecting the two square and lofty towers at the angles. Having entered this through a small passage, you stand in the court-

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Belted Will [court]yard, and those who have visited Cambridge or Oxford will be struck with its resemblance to some of the college quadrangles. On one side a flight of steps leads to the long ancient hall, in which are a succession of portraits of the English kings, and some rude wooden armorial emblems brought from Kirkoswald Castle, besides figures clad in plate armour, one in that belonging to Lord William Howard. The chapel is in another angle; its ceiling is adorned with the genealogical tree of the Dacres and Howards. Both the hall and chapel are lighted with perpendicular windows, whose mullions are embattled. The state drawing-room and bed-room, with their tapestried walls and decaying furniture, show the poor comfort that the nobles of old times enjoyed, compared with what even poor people possess at present. The gallery is enriched with a few portraits, and several good specimens of ancient armour. But the chief objects of curiosity are the apartments of Lord William Howard, which are entered through a small door-way, strongly barred by a massy iron door, having the pannels filled with oak, and strengthened with a couple of bolts of corresponding dimensions. One person at a time only can enter; then the stair-case winds spirally up to the oratory and study, similarly protected, and thus rendering the access still more difficult. His bed is still preserved, but sadly tattered and torn by persons anxious to possess some memorial of Belted Will, the severe but salutary scourge of a race of bold, reckless, murderous

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border reivers moss-troopers. His books, at least some of them, remain to show what his studies were in those intervals, which his important and busy and watchful situation as Lord Warden of the Marches allowed for such peaceful, soul-soothing pursuits. The ceiling is of massy oak, in plain intersecting pannels. The dungeons below are arched and without light; the rings still remain to which men, whose fierce untamed nature could not otherwise be subdued, or taught that there was neither honour nor glory in such wild raids and burnings, were chained and treated as the wild beasts of the forests. And the tourist will happily think how blessed he is, that his line has been thrown upon quiet waters and in such peaceful times, and under a constitution that both wills and enables every man to sit under his own vine, and eat with thankfulness the labour of his own hands. There are other apartments which are kept for the Earl of Carlisle and his family, whenever they visit this part of their possessions. The Castle is situated on the tongue of a precipice, surrounded on all sides by deep glens, except the front, from which the park extends up a gradually-rising ground, so that to the spectator approaching from Brampton it appears very low.

Hence the tourist may pass to Gilsland Spa, which is further up the vale, between high banks and precipices, where the river Irthing, emerging from the desolate heath-clad moors in which it springs, turns westwards into the pleasant haughs

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of Denton and Lanercost. The antiquarian will prefer travelling from Lanercost to Gilsland, along the heights of the northern bank, as he will have an opportunity of examining the Roman Wall, more especially at Birdoswald, the Amblogana of the Romans, where the mass of the wall is visible, though its facings are gone.

Gilsland Spa GILSLAND SPA

Is a place of great resort, and in point of salubrity and natural beauty, it is far superior to many spas of modern celebrity in the northern part of the island.

From the Railway Station at Rose Hill, a good carriage-road leads up in a gradual ascending sweep, passing a beautiful mansion called the Orchard House, until it reaches the Shaws Hotel, which stands upon an eminence skirted with fine wood. This hotel has recently been thoroughly repaired, enlarged, and remodelled, and now presents good accommodation to family parties and visitors, whether for health or pleasure. From a terrace-garden in front there is an extensive view, embracing a considerable portion of the line of the Newcastle and Carlisle Railway, reaching from Greenhead down towards Naworth Castle.

Behind the hotel is a field with walks and seats, exhibiting various windings of the Irthing, in its course from the wild fells in the waste. This field covers the mass of rock strata, at the foot of which,

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and on the margin of the river, the celebrated spa issues into day. The strata below the surface mould are said to be disposed in the following order:- First, a course of stratified sandstone, then bituminous shale, which includes a stratum of aluminous schistus, and next porphyry slate, beneath which the sulphurated water issues through a leaden tube, enclosed in a small stone fountain, at the rate of two gallons and a half per minute. The whole height of the precipice is about 90 feet. The strata are intersected by two veins, one upon each side of the sulphurated water, which commencing at the surface, approximate pretty uniformly until they reach the river, at which place they are about 150 yards distant. These veins are composed of calcareous spar and iron pyrites, and contain the above-mentioned strata between them.

This water is remarkably transparent; when poured from one tumbler into another, it sparkles very briskly. To most palates the taste is very agreeable, being somewhat accidulous, and it has generally been found to sit lightly on the stomach. The smell is so strongly impregnated with sulphur as to extend to the distance of several yards. It was originally known by the name of the Holy Well, also by that of Wardrew Spa, the latter name being taken from the tenement and farm on the Northumberland side of the water, and which appears to have been, at one time, the only original place of entertainment. The present mansion was erected in 1752, and is a large and elegantly-

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[elegantly-]finished place, though now in a state of great delapidation.

These waters may be employed either externally or internally in a diversity of diseases, with great success. There are hot and cold baths fitted up in the immediate contiguity of the spring, and also at the hotel. In drinking the water no other precaution or preparation seems necessary than that of commencing with moderation. Time and experience have proved its virtues; and during the last century up to the present time, it has been used both externally and internally with amazing success.

The walk from the hotel down to the spa is short, dry in all weathers, and rather too steep, and will be found inconveniently so on the return by the invalid, although seats are placed at suitable distances, to render the fatigue as light as possible. At the bottom of the hill the path is continued along the water's brink, on a paved terrace to the spa. On the right, adjoining the river, are some plain buildings for the baths, and immediately across the water, a number of large stepping-stones enable you to visit the opposite banks, which are finely wooded, and offer several interesting views from various open points.

Gilsland is a very favourable station for persons engaged either in picturesque or antiquarian pursuits. The Roman Wall may be examined in its course, from the Crags in Northumberland to its entrance at Birdoswald in Cumberland. Thirlwall Castle, on the Tippal, is within a short walk:

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Bewcastle Blenkinsopp Castle may be looked at in a tour to Featherstone Castle, reposing amidst rich haughs ennobled with trees on the South Tyne. Naworth Castle and Lanercost Priory may also be examined; they lie down the river Irthing, along the banks of which is a very pleasant bridle road. And the tourist, who has time and curiosity enough, will reap no little satisfaction from a ride over the northern moors, passing Triermain Castle to Bewcastle, where are the ruins of an ancient castle, within a Roman encampment, and a very remarkable Runic pillar.

Brampton Capon Tree From Lanercost or Naworth it is two miles to Brampton, an irregular-built market-town. Hence to Low Gelt Bridge is two miles, past the Capon Tree, which has once been a magnificent oak, now venerable in its decay, and protected by a belt of beech-trees. The High Sheriff usually met the Judges of Assize here, where they partook of a luncheon under its then spreading branches. It deserves a place in any collection of remarkable forest-trees. To Carlisle the cavalcade proceeded at full gallop, owing to the insecurity of the roads, from their contiguity to the Borders. Up the river Gelt are the Written Rocks: the precipitous face of a stratum of red freestone has had a Roman inscription, showing that these quarries have been wrought by this people, and which is preserved by Horsley, for the antiquarian will in vain search for it. The walk up this glen, by the side of the river, through the quarries to Middle Gelt Bridge,

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is splendid; immense masses of rock beetle over the glen, whose sides are feathered with ash, and beech, and hazel, whilst the river winds its mazy way between, now in whirling eddies over deep pools, now in foaming water-breaks over moss-ground rocks. The Railway between Carlisle and Newcastle crosses the water and ravine by a grand bridge of three arches, about eighty feet in height, springing from rustic piers, which harmonise with the scenery in the most effective manner.

Through the very neat village of Hayton, it is about four miles further, along a good country road, to the village of Great Corby, near which is

Corby Castle CORBY CASTLE,

The seat of P. H. Howard, Esq. M.P. The building has been so much altered by the addition of two new fronts in Grecian style, as no longer to wear the appearance of a Castle. It stands upon the brink of a lofty precipice, overhanging the Eden, which is seen from the lawn in front flowing down with a divided stream, between two high banks profusely clothed with umbrageous woods, the village church and priory gateway of Wetheral crowning the western receding sides. The walks through the park carry the visitor for a mile along the edge of impending rocks, adorned with several noble specimens of oak, then turning down to the water's edge, bring him in a circuit back to the house. from a wooden seat about half-way in the

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Newcastle and Carlisle Railway return, there is a romantic peep across the water, through an opening in the trees, of the cells of St. Constantine, excavated in the front of the precipice, forty feet above the raving flood below, and overhung by steep towering crags, overshadowed with trees, amid which the gnarled branches and roots of aged oaks are seen fantastically twisting forward. From the Templetto, a small Grecian edifice, neatly fitted up, and the wall painted in fresco with Swiss scenery, is a rich view of the house at the extremity of a green vista, whose sward, shaven close and smooth, sweeps upward between ivy-clasped oaks, sycamores, noble pines, and majestic Scotch firs. Advancing by this mossy carpet, which stretches along the margin of the river, the magnificent bridge for the Railway greatly enriches the prospect, extending from cliff to cliff; the river rolls away under five lofty arches, eighty feet in span, and ninety feet above its surface. The walks that extend along the banks to the north of the Castle present superior views of Wetheral, but they are reserved for the private use of the family. The interior of the Castle is elegantly fitted up, and contains a collection of paintings. The grounds are open to strangers on Wednesdays only.

At the foot of the village of Corby, another noble bridge of seven arches crosses a narrow glen. The late Mr. Howard formed a new approach to his residence, which passes through beneath the centre arch of this viaduct.

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Wetheral WETHERAL

River Eden Is on the western banks of the river, and is a pleasant village with a charming green, at the distance of four miles from Carlisle. The church is a neat edifice of the perpendicular style, consisting of a nave with aisles and clerestory windows, and a chancel with north aisle, the burial-place of the Howards. A modern tower stands at the west end. In the chancel, on a table monument having its sides adorned with foliated circles in squares, lie the mutilated effigies of Sir Richard Salkeld, knight, and his lady, the ancient possessors of Corby, from whom that manor passed by purchase to the present proprietors. The monumental chapel of the Howards contains that masterpiece of Nollekins', his monument to the first lady of the late H. Howard, Esq. She was daughter of Lord Archer, and died in giving birth to her first child. She is represented as half-reclining on the tomb, the infant lying across her lap, and an angel in a stooping posture directing her upturned gaze to heaven. Further description is needless: tender minds will always feel themselves sensibly affected by the contemplation of a fate so melancholy, and that will be increased by the view of it, pourtrayed as it is here in so touching a manner.

The walks along the western banks are perhaps as fine as those on the Corby grounds. The woods are equally interesting, the rocks as precipi-

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[precipi]tous and more richly adorned with mosses, and the paths, if not so trim, are more in keeping, and lead by natural windings through copsewood and flowering broom, golden-blossomed whins, and tangled briers.

Wetheral Safeguards WETHERAL SAFEGUARDS.

The Caves of St. Constantine, or Wetheral Safeguards, may be explored. They are three in number, deeply excavated, and protected by a breastwork of masonry, in which is a fire-place and three small lights. There is now a wooden gallery, by which they are rendered accessible: formerly they were approached by a dangerous path from the bottom, and gained by a ladder, which was afterwards drawn up. Tradition says they were originally the retreat of an ascetic of the name of Constantine; but it is far more probable that they were formed by the monks of the priory, as places of safety in which to deposit their plate, vestments, and relics. Since then, they have undoubtedly been devoted to the same purposes by the inhabitants, as safeguards in the disturbed state of the Borders.

Further on is a summer-house, generally called the Folly, which presents a view of unrivalled magnificence. Far below, the Eden foams and thunders over its rocky channel, which here pursues a serpentine course; on either hand steep banks arise, hidden beneath the dense foliage of the Corby

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and Wetheral woods. In front stands Corby Castle, and far away the blue highlands of the Borders. Returning back along the summit of the woods, you come to the small and interesting remains of

Wetheral Priory WETHERAL PRIORY,

Which was founded by Ranulph de Meschiens in 1088, for eight monks, and dedicated to the Holy Trinity, St. Mary, and St. Constantine. It was a dependent under the abbey of St. Mary's in York; on its dissolution, it was granted to the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle. Nothing is now left but the gateway, a square embattled tower of English perpendicular architecture. Over the very obtuse arch of the gateway is a watch-room, having on each side a small arched cell with slit-holes, commanding the approach north and south. The rest of the site is occupied by farm-buildings.

The tourist may proceed up the river to Armathwaite on either side; we would, however, recommend him to cross the water again to Corby, and go from that village up the hill, passing the lodge of the Castle. On the summit of the hill, let him stop and take a farewell retrospective view. At the bottom of the hill is Corby, amongst its smiling gardens, and orchards, and noble woods; stretching across the glen are seen the majestic Roman arches of the Viaduct; the middle ground occupied by the rich holms that extend as far as Warwick Hall, its

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Warwick Bridge village and church crowning the left banks of the ground that descends with its hedge-rows down to the river, which, though invisible, skirts it the whole way. Below the ancient church of Warwick is the newly-built bridge, and more to the right is the busy manufacturing village. On the extreme right, where the fells decline into the plain, the white turrets of Edmond Castle and the tower of Hayton church are discernible. and that mass of smoke marks the locality of Brampton. In the front distance are scattered numerous seat-houses, marking the line of the military road from Carlisle to Newcastle; and beyond, the blue distance terminates in the uplands of Nichol Forest and the wild district of Bewcastle, backed by the heath-clad hills in the neighbourhood of Langholm.

River Eden The road leads through an extensive wood, and past the village of Cumwhitton, from about five miles. The Eden flows at a short distance through winding vistas, where water, wood, and rock, holms, and sloping banks, combine to produce scenes rarely equalled, never surpassed, but seldom seen by strangers, and therefore comparatively unknown. After a rather dull road, you are presented with it rolling down to you from Armathwaite past the pleasant mansion of Low House. The road as a foreground, the river skirting its rocky and wooden banks on the left, its meadows and haughs on the right, with the blue smoke curling upwards from Armathwaite, sheltered by the Cooms and Baron Wood, and

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through the opening the distant range of mountains, of which the highest point, Helvellyn, is visible, form altogether an exquisite landscape.

Armathwaite ARMATHWAITE

May also be reached by a direct and better carriage-road leading to it from Wetheral, along the west side of the river Eden. It lies on both sides of the river, which is crossed by a bridge of three bold and graceful arches. The Castle is a plain square tower, standing on the river's bank, fitted up so as to meet the wants and comforts of modern refinement. The chapel of ease is a rude picturesque edifice, in the patronage of the owners of the Castle, and incumbency of the Rev. W. Hudson. On the eastern side is the elegant rural retreat of J. de Whelpdale, Esq., of Bishopyards, Penrith, surrounded by lawns, and protected by some fine plantations. An interesting walk through an avenue of flourishing larches, leads for a mile along the margin of a rapid eddying stream to the salmon leaps, where the Eden pours over a rocky wear (sic), and forming part of the great whinstone dyke, which crosses the island, stretching across its whole breadth. Above, the water forms a deep, still, lake-like scene, rocks shoot up perpendicularly out of it, and the immense masses of the Cooms and Baron Wood cast over it a deep gloomy shade:

'Awful scenes, that calm the troubled breast, And woo the weary to profound repose.'

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Hence the road leads up a very long and steep hill, on the top of which is an extensive view of the neighbouring country: two reaches of the Eden form a bright silvery crescent, brilliantly contrasted with the almost endless woods around, backed by the dark heathy ridge of Blaze Fell. The road then descends more gradually, till it arrives at

Nunnery Walks NUNNERY,

River Croglin Where the Croglin, a mountain stream, joins the Eden. The grounds on this side of the stream belong to H. A. Aglionby, Esq. M.P. whose house is a heavy red pile of building. The walks on that side formerly belonged to L. Ross, Esq., of Staffold Hall, a neat cheerful-looking mansion immediately forward; but the property is now included in that of Mr. A. It may, we think, be safely asserted that the Croglin, in this last part of its course for the space of a mile, during which it pours along a deep ravine, has no equal. It first enters this savage dell by a fall of forty feet, forcing its way through a cleft into a deep caldron, scooped out of the rock, in which the water is agitated and whirled around in boiling eddies, till it finds an escape by a narrow opening in one corner, whence it rushes down several leaps, foaming over the large masses that hinder its impetuous progress. The rocks are piled on each other up to the height of one or two hundred feet, projecting their bold fronts forward over the river, 'here scorched with lightning, there with

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ivy green,' or grey with aged lichens and mosses. On the south side, the path is carried round the protruding masses of rock on rudely-framed galleries, supported by rough timbers, thus affording the best and most striking views, because the rocks and woods on the northern side, which are the grandest, are seen to the best advantage. At one time you are on the margin of the water, beneath overhanging crags, the brook before you rushing furiously over moss-coloured fragments and stones, forming cascades of exceeding beauty, whilst the trees waving in the breeze, reveal the shaggy rock that supplies their roots with scanty nourishment. At another, you are on the brink of the precipice, looking down into a dense mass of wood, out of which the twisted branches of the rift oak, stripped of their bark, 'toss their giant arms amid the skies,' contrasting with the deep green behind, while the water is betrayed by its sparkling sheen and softened roar.

The Eden also presents some magnificent views, but the Croglin must ever be considered the chief attraction. This sketch, though not adequately describing this most romantic of streams, may give the tourist a faint idea of what he has to expect; for the most glowing description would fall short of the original. It would be as difficult to transfer the clear distinguishable depth of its shadows, the sea-green colour of its transparent waters, and the flashing light playing upon its precipices and dense foliage, to the canvas. In a small building are

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some monumental remains of the Aglionby family. The site of the Nunnery is now marked by a pillar of masonry, standing on the hill above the present house.

Eden Bridge Beyond Staffold Hall, on the road-side, is a white farm-house, called Prospect Hill, from its commanding a view of Kirkoswald and the surrounding country. The Eden runs through a more open and expanded vale; fertile holms and rich corn-fields adorn the banks of the this clear-flowing stream, which is crossed by the bridge of Lazonby, a village straggling up the hill on the west side. Over Kirkoswald are the woods of Little Salkeld, with Cross Fell in the distance.

Kirkoswald KIRKOSWALD

Is an irregular-built market-town, crowning the ridge of a hill. The most interesting objects are the Church and Castle. The Church is an old building, consisting of a nave, aisles, and porches, north and south, and a chancel. It is built at a little distance from the town, under a hill-side, a noble avenue of sycamores leading to it. A copious spring of pure water issuing out in the Church, runs through the whole length, and emerges into day at the west end. The style is late Norman or very early English, with many modern alterations. The belfry, containing two bells, stands on the hill above; for, otherwise, their sound would be inaudible in the town. On the east side of the town,

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Kirkoswald Castle on high ground, stands the Castle; the ruins are very scanty; the angle of what was once apparently been a high tower, and the ground thrown together in irregular heaps, now grown over with grass, are all that remain. A branch of the Northumberland Fetherstonhaughs is seated at the College in this town.

About three miles further, after traversing a pleasant road between fine hedge-rows and noble trees, we arrive on a black moor, where our eyes are greeted with the sight of

Long Meg and Her Daughters LONG MEG AND HER DAUGHTERS.

'A weight of awe not easy to be borne, Fell suddenly upon my spirit, cast From the dread bosom of the unknown past, When first I saw that sisterhood forlorn: And her, whose strength and stature seem to scorn The power of years - pre-eminent, and placed Apart to overlook the circle vast.'

The road passes through the midst of the circle, as also does a wall, forming the boundary of the common, thus injuring the effect of this mighty monument of British superstition. The stones, sixty-six in number, are of various sizes, some lying hid amidst the herbage, others standing erect, and forming a circle three hundred and fifty paces in circumference. On the south side, without the circle, stands Long Meg, a large upright stone, about fifteen feet round, and eighteen feet high, of unhewn freestone, which seems to have been brought from Lazonby Moor, all the rest being a kind of

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whinstone. Within the circle, near Long Meg, four of them form a square; and towards the east, west, and north, two stones of greater magnitude are placed at a much wider distance than the rest. On the east the hills terminate in Cross Fell; on the west, Helvellyn, Mell Fell, and Blencathra, are visible above the near ground, which is composed of wild heathy commons.

Litte Salkeld The road leads down the common to the village of Little Salkeld, on the banks of the Eden, where Robert Hodgson, Esq., has his residence, seated amongst pleasantly-wooded grounds, interspersed with agreeable walks leading along the banks of the water, and in some places scooped into caves, affording cool retreats.

Langwathby At the village of Longwathby the tourist will cross the Eden by a good bridge of five arches, built in 1636. The church is parcel of the vicarage of Edenhall, which is a mile and a half further, and three miles and a half from Penrith.

Edenhall Edenhall is the beautiful mansion of the Musgraves, lately rebuilt of white stone in a style of classic elegance. The rounds around it slope gently towards the river, and are highly adorned with wood variously disposed. In the hall is preserved a very curious and beautifully painted drinking-glass, in an ornamented case: this is the 'Luck of Edenhall.' The church, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is a singular and beautiful fabric; it has a low tower with machicholated battlements, and contains several marble monuments of the Musgraves;

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the windows also have some good pieces of painted glass in them.

We shall now, leaving behind the sweet-flowing Eden, quickly reach the market-town of

Penrith and excursions PENRITH,

Vulgarly called Perith, an ancient, respectable, and well-built town, consisting chiefly of one long street, at the junction of the roads from London and Manchester to Glasgow. The houses, built of stone, are generally plastered and whitewashed. In 1807 the town was much improved by the removal of the market-cross, shambles, and moot-hall; and the south entrance from Appleby has lately been widened and carried by a gentle curve out of the town, instead of by a narrow, crooked, and dangerous road, as it formerly was. The markets and fairs are well attended, and rank high as marts for agricultural produce.

Giant's Grave The parish church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a large structure, rebuilt in 1722, by a rate and subscription: the tower, which contains a set of very sweet chimes, is ancient. In the churchyard is a curious relic of antiquity, called the Giant's Grave, consisting of two large pillars, ten feet in height, and distant fifteen feet from each other in the direction of east and west, having the space between them partly enclosed on each side by four large thin stones. Near them is another pillar named the Giant's Thumb, but it is six feet in height. The

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Penrith Castle ruins of the Castle are on the west side of the town: it is thought or have been built about the end of the fourteenth century, during the reign of Edward IV, and was once the residence of Richard of Glo'ster. It was dismantled in the civil wars. From the remaining parts of the walls, the Castle seems to have been a very strong and spacious fortress, with the usual accompaniments of dungeons. On the north side of the town is the excellent race-course, furnished with a grand-stand, built in 1814. Horse-races and stag-hunts are held in the autumn, and attract a large concourse of spectators. At the George inn is a spacious assembly-room, and at the Crown a news-room, which, with libraries, form a fund of amusement for the inhabitants.

Penrith Beacon Above the race-course, on the point of a wood-embowered hill, stands the Beacon, which the traveller may visit for the purpose of seeing from a moderate elevation the country lying around, and thus forming a correct idea of the relative situation of places of interest. To the north, Cross Fell is the most conspicuous object, nor can the Pikes of Dufton escape the eye, with the range of mountains reaching from east to west of Carlisle. Stainmore and the heights of Wildbore Fell, towards Kirkby Stephen, fill the east. On the south are Lowther and Brougham, with their teeming plains and luxuriant woods; and the circle on the west is enriched with the town of Penrith and the rural vale of Eamont, overtopped by Skiddaw.

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Many pleasant and picturesque walks are in this neighbourhood; and, within five miles, are Lowther Castle, Brougham Hall, Eden Hall, Dalemain, Greystoke Castle, Hutton Hall, and Ulles Water.

Eamont Bridge Arthur's Round Table Mayburgh Brougham Hall A pleasant road leads to Eamont Bridge, so picturesque an object that it ought to be transferred to the sketch-book of every artist. Turning immediately to the right is Arthur's Round Table, on the banks of the stream, an amphitheatre twenty-nine yards in diameter, surrounded by a ditch and mound. To the west of it, on the right of the road to Pooley, is Mayburgh's Mystic Round, a hill, on the summit of which is a circular enclosure, one hundred yards in diameter, formed by pebble stones, having in its centre a column of unhewn stone eleven feet high, and twenty-two feet in circumference. Antiquarians have hazarded several but unsatisfactory conjectures, as to the uses of these mysterious structures. They are evidently of British origin, and to be classed along with such as Long Meg and the Keswick Circle. Following the Shap road till you arrive at the Lowther, on a finely-wooded eminence, on which it is perched like a nest, is Brougham Hall, the seat of Lord Brougham and Vaux. It is a lofty and aged pile, having a long front to the west, with an embattled parapet, and a terrace extending north and south: the windows of the Hall are filled with stained glass. The shrubberies and pleasure-grounds are extensive, and laid out with taste. On the high road, a little

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Clifton further on, is Clifton: its old hall, now a farm-house, is a turreted building. The moor is famous as having been the scene of an engagement between the Highlanders and the Duke of Cumberland, to which allusion is made in Waverley. From this pleasant village extends the walk to the Countess' Pillar, a lofty and handsome stone obelisk, erected by the good Countess of Pembroke in 1656, to commemorate her parting with her mother, the countess dowager; it is adorned with dials and armorial quarterings. On the return is

Brougham castle BROUGHAM CASTLE,

On the site of the Roman Brovoniacum, at the confluence of the Eamont and Lowther, where many Roman remains have been found. The present Castle is Norman. The first Roger Lord Clifford built part, as appears from an inscription - 'This made Roger.' In 1651 the countess re-edified it, after it had lain in ruins from 1617. The entrance is by a machicolated gateway and tower, and a short covered way leads to an under gateway with iron-grated gates. The Dong&ccedila;on, a stately edifice of excellent masonry, rises from the midst of the area: within this is a vault, the groined roof of which is supported by a single octagonal pier. The outward and inner gateways are both vaulted with common arches, and have been defended by portcullises.

These ruins, standing on a tree-clad eminence

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at the junction of two pretty streams, wear a venerable and majestic appearance, and are, as a whole, a conspicuous and romantic object in every approach. The return is by the London road, which here crosses the Eamont by a new bridge, erected on the site of one washed down in the great floods of 1822.

Askham Lowther Castle and Hawes Water are most usually and conveniently visited from Penrith. The tourist must go on as far as Eamont Bridge, and then turn direct to the right towards Yanwath, the old hall of which wears a very castellated look, towering out of the old ancestral trees, and standing on the south bank of this beautiful stream. The guide-post will direct him to the left; and having traversed five miles, he will arrive at Askham, a good village in a pleasant situation, opposite to Lowther Park. The hall is an oblong turreted building, either rebuilt or greatly enlarged in 1574, as appears from a curious inscription over the door. It was in 1828 converted into the rectory for the parish. The church is a small edifice, dedicated to St. Peter, having a large chapel belonging to the hall. Cross the river to

Lowther Castle Lowther Park LOWTHER CASTLE AND PARK.

The Castle stands in a park of six hundred acres, on the east side of the delightful vale of Lowther. The building was begun in 1802, and its general form is pyramidal, the wings adorned with turrets

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and towers, rising up to an immense square tower occupying the centre. The north front is four hundred and twenty feet in length, having before it a rampart, forming a semi-polygon, flanked by circular bastions at the angles; below there is a large area enclosed by a parapet wall, with a covered way, and bastions at the corners. At the entrance is a porter's lodge, with a double gate and postern, and in the centre a large gateway, guarded by two strong octagonal towers. The south front forms a remarkable contrast to this, being built in the decorated style, with pointed windows enriched with tracery and niches; the cloisters also give additional interest and effect to this side. A lawn of velvet smoothness and emerald green, shut in by trees of the loftiest growth, stretches along this front. The interior of the Castle is fitted up with correspondent taste, oak being very plentifully used. The staircase, which ascends in the central tower, is magnificent. A beautiful flower-garden is separated from the park by a sunk fence, and from the south front several walks wind away to Lowther Terrace, through groves of forest trees. Below, the river Lowther pursues with gentle stream its devious course, through flowery meads and beneath the leafy foliage, sometimes betraying itself by its glittering stream, sometimes by its noisy babblings. The view from the great central tower is extensive, being shut in by Skiddaw, Helvellyn, St. Sunday Crag, and other distant mountains.

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The tourist who has complained of the deficiency of magnificent forest-wood, will here, at least, have found no reason to renew his complaints, and, indeed, scarcely during any of the latter part of the tour. The princely residences of the nobility are scarce in the north country - the halls of the gentry are not numerous - and the lands being in the hands of statesmen, who are in general mere agriculturalists, they look upon wood as exhausting the fertility of the land.

Bampton At Bampton, the Lowther is joined by the stream which issues out of Hawes Water. This is a village placed on both sides of the water. The church, vicarage, and grammar-school, are on the south side of the vale. The road through this valley is amidst green enclosures and pretty lanes, bordered by wild roses, and honeysuckles, and copse-woods, which beguile the way till you reach the lake.

At Bampton is a free-school, which has produced many great scholars, especially Edmund Gibson, Bishop of London, and the late Judge Wilson.

Hawes Water HAWES WATER,

Belonging to the Earl of Lonsdale, is a less Ulles Water, undefiled by bad taste. It is three miles in length, and generally half-a-mile in breadth, abounding in perch, trout, eels, and chubs. The eastern side is screened by pretty wooded rocks, and its western girt by a few cultivated fields, thinly

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studded with farm-houses, that are sheltered by groups of trees. A richly-wooded promontory, that stretches from the west side of the lake, appears to cut it into two: a little beyond is Fordingdale Beck, presenting some beautiful cascades, and the grand assemblage of mountains at the lake-head, in the noblest point of view. Branstree, Harter Fell, with its ridgy projection, Riggendale, High Street, Kidsty Pike, which has two points, and is low in the middle like Saddleback, and Whelter, stand around its head, and send down the trickling streams and silvery cascades to feed this interesting water. The views, indeed, in passing up, are a composition of magnificence and sublimity, as seen from the carriage-road in the most favourable manner; the scenes looking down the lake, form a striking contrast - all is rural beauty and sylvan sweetness.

Mardale About one mile further from the head of the lake stands Mardale Chapel, which is under Shap; it is a wild solitary region, surrounded by lofty mountains and fells. Near this, in former days, there stood 'a simple cottage among rocks, woods, and solitary mountains; it bore on its varied roofs and numerous gable-ends the marks of former centuries; its owners had lived there in succession for many generations. A few paces took them to Mardale Chapel, their place of worship, and when they died, their long home was on their own premises. They were surrounded by woody knolls, and these kmolls were surrounded by lofty moun-

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[moun]tains. Most of these remain, and will remain. I only regret that the ancient cottage, with its accompaniments, is superseded by the modern house with its five windows in front. I should have preferred at Mardale Hill the ancient cottage with its antiquated windows, its lowly roof fringed with moss, and its chimneys smoking through the trees, as the abode of quiet and the home of solitude.' The change here so eloquently lamented has, unfortunately, too often been the case in numerous other instances, which the stranger will have been obliged to notice.

The traveller may, by several ways, each exhibiting scenes worthy of admiration, pass out of this vale. One mountain path leads up Riggendale, over High Street, and down Troutbeck Hundreds, to Ambleside or Low Wood Inn,

Kentmere KENTMERE,

Nan Bield Pass Kentmere Hall Or he may follow the course of the stream flowing out of Small Water, over the pass of Nanbield, then down a steep descent into Kentmere, a narrow vale, watered by the Kent, which expands into a tarn one mile long, abounding with trout, perch, and wild ducks, and margined by swampy grounds. The houses are scattered throughout the dale. At Kentmere Hall, an ancient tower, that unwearied apostle of the north, and sincere confessor of the gospel, Bernard Gilpin, some time rector of Houghton-le-Spring, in Durham, was born. Near the

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Hall stands the chapel, in a burial-ground that was consecrated in 1701. Hence by Nether Stavely and Strickland Kettle, the road reaches Kendal.

Longsleddale LONG SLEDDALE.

Gatescarth Pass Another path leads upwards by a mountain stream from Chapel Hill, between Harter Fell and Shap Fells, then down by Sadgill into Long Sleddale, and thence to Kendal, from which place Hawes Water is frequently visited by this route. The valley is, on the average, half-a-mile in width, and is intersected by the Sprint rivulet, which runs parallel to the road. From the bottom, which is covered with a mixture of arable and meadow ground, hanging woods and rising pastures ascend the sloping sides, terminating in sheep walks on the mountains. It is divided into small estates, having the farm-steads at the foot of rising grounds almost every quarter of a mile. On an eminence, midway, stands the chapel, and near it the school. The most interesting mansion in the dale is Yewbarrow Hall, having an ancient tower, whose walls are several feet thick.

Branstree The last tract, at the traveller's choice, crosses over Branstree, and through the deep and narrow vale of Swindale, to

Sahp Abbey SHAP ABBEY,

Founded by Thomas, son of Gospatrick, who de-

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[de]dicated it to God and St. Mary Magdalene, endowing it for canons of the Premonstratensian order. Their revenues, at the dissolution, were £154 17s. 7d. The Abbey church appears to have been a large building. The great tower is the only part now standing, but extensive foundations of buildings were discovered in 1825, on the south side of the Abbey, near which the pillar of an ancient bridge is till to be seen in the midst of the river.

Karl Lofts Near the town of Shap is a stupendous monument, called Karl Lofts, composed of two lines of huge unhewn masses of granite, enclosing an area of half-a-mile in length, and from twenty to thirty yards in breadth, having at its south end a circle of similar stones, eighteen feet in diameter, and near the north end a square plot of stones, partly covered with earth, above which, on Skellaw Hill, is a small tumulus. The stones in each line are some of them three or four yards in diameter; but many of them have been blasted and carried away for the erection of buildings in the parish.

Shap The town of Shap, standing on the high road, has excellent inns; and not far from it, the Earl of Lonsdale has erected a commodious and elegant hotel, for the accommodation of visitors to the Wells, which have lately become a place of genteel resort. The high road, in return, passes through Thrimby and the pleasant village of Hackthorpe, to Penrith.

From Penrith the stranger can proceed by two

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roads to Ulles Water; one along the north, the other along the south side of the Eamont, both meeting near Pooley Bridge, a hamlet at the foot of the lake, where the river speeds its limpid way out of it.

Dalemain Dacre Dacre bears The northern road leads past Dalemain Hall, built in the style of architecture that marks the reign of William III, and seated on the Dacre, which, rising in the moorish country of Penruddock, flows down a soft sequestered valley, past the gloomy and monastic Hall of Hutton John and the castle of Dacre, joining the Eamont in the park. It forms, with Dacre Castle and Blencathra behind, a grand picture as viewed from this Hall. On the right, are Dacre Castle and Church. The Castle is now converted into a farm-house, the moat is filled up, and the outworks destroyed; but the main building remains in a perfect state, consisting of four towers of excellent masonry. The church is a neat stone fabric dedicated to St. Andrew; it contains several monuments of the Hasell family; and on the north side of the altar-table is the effigy of a knight in armour. In the churchyard are four remarkable monuments, being the figures of bears, about five feet in height, sitting on their haunches, and clasping a rude pillar.

Pooley Bridge The road by the south leads over Eamont Bridge, thence by Yanwath (that fine specimen of the old Westmorland hall) through Tirril, and past Barton church to Pooley Bridge, where there is a pretty good inn, affording accommodation,

plate:-

Image FD05.jpg. ULLES WATER. Map and print, uncoloured engraving, Ulles Water, engraved by W H Lizars, published by Charles Thurnham, Carlisle, and by R Groombridge, 5 Paternoster Row, London, 1843.

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saddle-horses, jaunting-cars, and pleasure-boats. On the opposite side of the water is Dunmallet, which the tourist cannot but notice, from its conical figure and its being covered with wood; it was anciently crowned by a Roman station.

Ullswater ULLES WATER

Is the largest lake, next to Windermere, in the district, being nine miles in length and one in breadth. Its average depth is from twenty to thirty-five fathoms; and its waters abound in excellent trout, and are crowded with shoals of skellies, a kind of fresh-water herring: a few char are also found in the lake, and great quantities of eels are taken in the Eamont, as they migrate from the lake in autumn. The principal feeders are Grisedale Beck, overflowing from a large tarn, high up between Seat-Sandal and Helvellyn, and Goldrill Beck, whose waters are the united streams that pour out of Blea and Angle Tarns. The water is of a zig-zag form, running as it were into the mountains, the hill-sides plentifully covered with wood, and rich meadows lying at its foot. It consists of three reaches: the first or lowest, three miles in length, has pretty sloping banks; the view up this has, in front, Hallin Fell, with Swarth Fell on the left, and on the right, the sweetly-situated villas of Rampsbeck, Beauthorn, Lemon Hall, and the white hamlet of Watermillock. The second reach is four miles long, having the huge Helvellyn

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rearing his crested form in front, with Hallsteads on the long low promontory, round which the lake doubles - the woods of Gowbarrow adorning the right - and on the left, Hallin, Birk, and Place Fells. The highest and last reach is two miles long, spotted with a few rocky islands of small importance. The steep and rugged front of Place Fell forms its left boundary, and the precipitous rocks of Stybarrow, oaken-crowned, start up out of the waters on the right, the crags of St. Sunday, Helvellyn, and Fairfield, forming the towering distance.

'Turn where we may, said I, we cannot err In this delicious region.- Cultured slopes, Wild tracts of forest-ground, and scattered groves, And mountains bare, or clothed with ancient woods, Surrounded us; and, as we held our way Along the level of the grassy flood, They ceased not to surround us; change of place, From kindred features diversely combined, Producing change of beauty ever new.'

On the whole, this water generally stands confessed the most beautiful and grandest of all, affording the greatest variety of views, in which, however, the sublime unquestionably preponderates.

How Town Old Church In advancing up Ulles Water, we should recommend the south or Westmorland side of the shore to be taken as far as How Town, where a boat should be in readiness to carry you across to Old Church, Watermillock, inasmuch as the views are incomparably finer, both with regard to the foregrounds and the combinations of the distance.

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Martindale This side cannot be pursued to Patterdale but by pedestrians, who after leaving How Town, penetrate into Martindale, a sequestered spot shut out from the lake; its one-arched bridge, a chapel with low roof and simple bell-gable, and a picturesque yew-tree, are romantic objects. At the head of this dale, where it divides into two grains, is a hunting-box of the Hasell's. The want of wood here gives interest to the few scattered houses which are embowered in sycamore. A green path leads to the top of the western ridge, whence there is a view of the last reach of Ulles Water, bordered by black steeps - the narrow grassy vale of Bordale immediately beneath - Penrith beyond - and Cross Fell in the extreme verge of the horizon. In passing down to Patterdale, several beautiful views are presented of that dale and of Brother Water, with the heights of Kirkstone.

Watermillock The carriage-road leads from Pooley Bridge, on the Cumberland side, along the first reach, which is comparatively speaking tame, having Soulby Fell, a smooth green hill, on the right. Near the pleasant village of Watermillock, stood the old church, in a very sequestered bay; the old church-yard yew-tree still survives. The new church is built further up the hill-side, and was consecrated by Osbaldistone, Bishop of Carlisle, on his way to crown Elizabeth. At the extremity of the church promontory stands Hallsteads, the modern residence of J. Marshall, Esq. Immediately after passing this, on the left, you enter

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Gowbarrow Park into the grounds of Gowbarrow Hall; and then the Park, in which is situated Lyulph's Tower, a rude hunting-seat of Henry Howard, Esq., that exhibits one of the finest views on the lake. The lover of nature may linger here for hours. A powerful brook dashes through rocks hung with a happy mixture of natural wood, beds of luxuriant fern, aged hawthorns, hollies, and honeysuckles; while fallow deer are seen glancing and bounding through the thickets and over the lawns. The attraction of the retired views, and the ever-varying fore-grounds, which heighten the beauties of the water, are not to be described.

'Ah! that such beauty, varying in the light Of living nature, cannot be pourtrayed By words, nor by the pencil's silent skill, But is the property of him alone Who hath beheld it, noted it with care, And, in his mind, recorded it with love.'

Aira Force The explorer of nature's hidden charms must here leave the road, and follow up the gill above named, till he arrives at Airey Force, where the stream falls eighty feet between two rugged cheeks of rock,

' ____ Sending From hollow clefts up to the clearer air A cloud of mist, that, smitten by the sun, Varies its rainbow hues.'

A wooden bridge crosses the top of the fall. After it has rested for a moment in the basin that receives it, making a bend, it rushes down a lower

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Stybarrow Crag steep, at the foot of which another romantic bridge is thrown over the agitated waters. Altogether the scene is incomparably grand. After reluctantly leaving the enclosed park, the scenery still continues most fascinating. The road that passes down the hill on the right, is the direct carriage-route from Keswick, through Matterdale, a wild and interesting valley. The horse-road from Keswick unites with this at Dockwray, through which hamlet, after springing out of Dowthwaite Head, runs the stream that, in its progress through Gowbarrow Park, forms the noble fall of Airey Force. On the hill-top there is a magnificent view of the two upper reaches of the lake, having on the left, Silvery Point and Place Fell, the steeps of Glenridding, with Stybarrow Crags and Patterdale Hall; and beyond, the mountains of Graysdale and Hartshope, Scandale Fell, and St. Sunday Crag. Proceeding onwards, on the right, lurking in a recess, is Glencoin, a farm-house belonging to Henry Howard, Esq., in a rich cultivated bottom, with high and splendidly-wooded mountains in the back-ground: the stream here divides the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland. Hence the road ascends, and is cut through the crags of Stybarrow, from which there is a Claude-like view towards the foot of the water. On a grassy promontory stands Glenridding, the seat of the Rev. H. Askew; the dale opening upwards to the right, is adorned with fertile fields, cottages, and natural groves, that agreeably unite with the view of Ulles Water. The

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pedestrian may follow up its stream, along bold water-breaks and falls, to a silent tarn in the recesses of Helvellyn,

'-- From the summit of whose craggy mound The perching eagle oft is heard to cry, Or on resounding wings to shoot athwart the sky.'

Patterdale Hall King of Patterdale On the right is Patterdale Hall, the former residence of the kings of Patterdale, but now belonging to W. Marshall, Esq., M.P. for Carlisle. The stream that rushes down across the road, flows out of Graysdale Tarn, through a moist green dale, with one single house embosomed in sycamores.

Patterdale chapel stands on one side of the road, with scarcely a single tombstone in its burial-ground, its noble tree, the solemn yew, adding dignity even to the hallowed ground.

'These dalesmen trust The lingering gleam of their departed lives To oral records and the silent heart - Depository faithful, and more kind Than fondest epitaphs; for, if that fail, What boots the sculptur'd tomb?'

A little further is the excellent inn, where every accommodation may be had for viewing this sublime nucleus of dales, and where a day or two should be spent for such a purpose. The water should be navigated, the recesses of the dales explored, and Helvellyn ascended. No one, not even the transitory visitor, should omit to walk to Blowick, which may be done while dinner is preparing. It has still

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its land-locked bays, and its rocky promontories, though deprived of all its wood - thus displaying all its charms at once, instead of unfolding them in delightful succession.

Leaving the inn, we shall proceed up the dale. On the right is Deepdale, which is terminated by a cove, a craggy and gloomy abyss, with precipitous sides, the receptacle of the snows of Fairfield. On the left, the road leads to Low Hartshope, a romantic village, through which flows the stream from Hawes Water.

Brothers Water BROTHER WATER.

At Cowbridge is the outlet of this pretty sheet of water, which is situated in a fertile vale, clothed with wood. On its western side, near the head, stands the ancient and lowly Hall of Hartshope. This water may be readily circumambulated, and the views around it are sublime. It is fed by Kirkstone Beck, and that which rises under Dove Crag, which issues from a cove richly decorated with native wood; from this recess there is a view backwards on the gleaming surface of Brother Water, and forwards to the precipitous sides and lofty ridges of Dove Crag.

Kirkstone Pass The tourist may proceed over the rocky pass of Kirkstone to Ambleside, or return to Penrith.

End of the tour This is the end of the descriptive section; page 150 is blank.

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AN

Itineraries of The Lakes ITINERARY OF THE LAKES,

CONTAINING

A CORRECT DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWNS, VILLAGES, SEATS, AND ALL OTHER OBJECTS WORTHY OF NOTICE TO THE TOURIST.

Miles. LANCASTER TO Miles. 4 Bolton-le-Sands 4 2 Carnforth 6 6½ Beetham 12½ 1¼ Milnthorpe 13¾ 1¼ Heversham 15 1½ Levens Bridge 16½ 1½ Sizergh 18 3¼ Kendal 21¼

Lancaster LANCASTER is an ancient town, and the capital of the county-palatine of Lancaster, beautifully situated on a hill above the river Lune, which falls into Morecambe Bay, at the distance of seven miles. On the summit of the hill is the Castle, an imposing structure, built by Roger de Poictou, in the 11th or 12th century, and enlarged by John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, in the 14th. The assizes are held in the Castle, and part of it is also used as a county prison. The principal public buildings, in and near the town, are the Town-hall, in the market-place, the Custom-house, the Assembly-room, the Theatre, and the county Lunatic Asylum, which is capable of accommodating 300 patients, is perfectly secure, and conducted on an excellent plan.

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The trade of Lancaster is very considerable, not only at Glasson Dock, where the larger ships generally unload but also at the Canal, which is one of very great extent, and connected with many of the principal towns in the manufacturing districts. Fairs for the sale of cheese are held here twice a-year, at which immense quantities are sold. Lancaster is incorporated under a mayor, aldermen, &c., and sends two members to Parliament. Population, 12,613; market-days, Wednesday and Saturday; inns, King's Arms and Royal Oak.

Bolton-le-Sands Bolton-le-Sands.- In the neighbourhood of this village, the mountains of Westmorland and Cumberland combine very beautifully with Morecambe Bay.

Carnforth Carnforth.- Two miles hence is the remarkable cave, called Dunald Millhole, into which a brook descends, and runs under ground, until it breaks forth again at this village.

Beetham Beetham is a neat village in the secluded vale of the Belo, on the new road from Lancaster to Ulverstone. The Hall, now a farm-house, was a large fortified mansion, standing within an area, enclosed by a wall pierced with loop-holes. The ruins of Hilslack and Arnside towers are not very distant; they seem to have been erected to guard the Bay of Morecambe.

Milnthorpe MILNTHORPE, a small but well-built market-town, is situated on the north side of the Belo, and is the only sea-port in Westmorland, enjoying a share of the coast trade to Liverpool, Glasgow, and the intermediate ports; it is in the parish of Hever-

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[Hever]sham. An elegant and beautiful chapel, in the lancet style, has lately been built and consecrated for the use of the inhabitants. Population, (with Heversham,) 1509; market-day, Friday; inn, Cross-Keys. Near Milnthorpe, on the left, is Dallam Tower, the residence of Colonel Wilson.

Heversham Heversham is a neat village, having a grammar-school, at which Bishop Watson received his early education under the immediate superintendence of his father, and a noble church, of which there is a very striking view in passing. Near this are three pleasant villas - Plumptree Bank,- Wilson, Esq.; Plumptree Hall,- Pedder, Esq.; and Deepthwaite,- Bindloss, Esq.

Levens Bridge Levens-Bridge spans the Kent. The roads to Bowness and Ulverstone, through the romantic vale of Witherslack, turn off here to the left. A beautiful foot-path through Levens-Park leads along the wooded banks of the Kent to Kendal, 5½ miles. Levens-Park, the seat of the Hon. Fulke G. Howard, is the admiration of every one.

Sizergh Castle Sizergh Hall on the left.- If the tourist has any penchant for fine old carved wainscotings, &c., and rooms exhibiting the massive and splendid style of ancient days, he should by all means turn aside to this remnant of feudal strength.

Kendal KENDAL is a flourishing town, being the largest in Westmorland, and is placed in a very agreeable valley, enlivened by the meanderings of the Kent. A full description of it will be found at page 19.

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Miles. LANCASTER TO Miles. 5 Caton 5 2 Claughton 7 2 Hornby 9 2 Melling 11 2 Tunstall 13 2 Burrow 15 2 Kirkby-Lonsdale 17 13 Kendal 30

Caton Caton.- Between this village and Lancaster there is a grand view, from a field by the side of the road, of the fertile vale of Lune, with the Yorkshire mountains towering high over it.

Claughton Claughton.- The ancient hall is now, as is commonly the case with these ancient relics of bye-gone days, occupied by a farmer.

Hornby Hornby.- On the right is Hornby Castle, the property and possession of the estates attached to which, have latterly been a source of lucrative emolument to the gentlemen of the long robe.

Kirkby Lonsdale Kirkby-Lonsdale.- A small market-town, agreeably placed on the west bank of the Lune, lying near the verge of Lancashire, and within a few miles of Yorkshire. The churchyard is celebrated for the fine views which it commands of the valley. The bridge over the Lune is an admirable and remarkable structure, narrow, however, and better suited to the times in which its three ribbed arches were first thrown across the angry and chafing stream below. The mills are singularly situated, and are used for different purposes. Although the town has not been much increased, it is still, in importance, the third town in Westmorland. Popu-

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[popu]lation, 1686; market-day, Thursday; inn, Rose and Crown, and The Dragon.

Kendal KENDAL.- (See page 19.)

Miles. LANCASTER TO Miles. 3½ Hest Bank 3½ ¼ Lancaster Sands 3¾ 9 Kent's Bank 12¾ 1 Allithwaite 13¾ 1¼ Flookborough 15 1 Leven Sands 16 5 Ulverston 21

Hest Bank Hest Bank.- A bathing-place on the edge of Morecam Bay.

Lancaster Sands Lancaster Sands.- From Hest Bank to Cartmel the Sands are about eleven miles in breadth, and guides are stationed on them to preserve travellers from devouring quicksands, deep channels, and the flowing tide, which twice a-day covers the whole sandy plain many feet deep in water. The Sands can only be crossed when the tide is out, and should never be attempted without the guides. The views here are very fine, embracing the whole coast of the Bay of Morecam, Peel Castle at its entrance, the Crags of Warton and Arnside on the right, Ingleborough and its buttresses to the east, and in front, the Westmorland and Cumberland mountains.

Allithwaite Allithwaite is a village in the parish of Cartmel.

Cartmel CARTMEL is a small market-town, having an ancient and handsome church. Three miles hence is a medicinal spring, called Holy Well, much fre-

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[fre]quented. Population, 347. Not far from this town is Holker Hall, the seat of the Burlingtons.

Flookborough Flookborough was anciently a market-town, by charter of Edward I.

Leven Sands Leven Sands are fordable at low water, and are about three miles in breadth. Splendid views are obtained in crossing them, as they are bounded by the woods of Holker Hall and Conishead Priory, and closed in by a nucleus of mountains, of which the Man Mountain is the most conspicuous.

Ulverston ULVERSTON is the capital of Furness, and a flourishing market-town and port. A new church has lately been erected, and there are several dissenting meeting-houses. The old church, dedicated to St. Mary, was enlarged in 1804, and is now one of the handsomest churches in Lancashire. There is a coach daily to and from Lancaster. Population, 5352; inns, Sun and Braddyll Arms. In this neighbourhood are Conishead Priory, the modern mansion of Colonel Braddyll, and Swarthmoor Hall, once the property of George Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends.

Miles. ULVERSTON TO Miles. 5 Dalton 5 1 Furness 6 Return by Urswick

Dalton-in-Furness DALTON, a small market-town, was anciently the capital of Furness. It consists of one street, ter-

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[ter]minated by a spacious market-place, where an old castle, consisting of a square tower, overlooks the town. In this castle are held the courts of the liberty and manor of Furness, of which the Duke of Buccleugh and Lord Beaulieu are lords. Romney, the portrait-painter, was born at a place called Beckside, in Dalton. Population, 3229; market-day, Saturday.

Furness Abbey FURNESS ABBEY.- For a detailed account of it, see page 6. [1]

In returning from Dalton, the tourist may take the Urswick road, over Birkrigg, the top of which commands an extensive prospect of the sea and the Isle of Man, with the surrounding mountains.

Miles. ULVERSTON TO Miles. 6 Lowick Bridge 6 2 Nibthwaite 8 8 Coniston Water Head 16 3 Hawkshead 19 4 Ferry House 23 1½ Bowness 24½

Lowick Bridge Lowick Bridge crosses the Crake, which issues out of Coniston Water. At the separation of the Broughton and Hawkshead roads, there is a very fine view of Coniston Water, and the mountains about its head.

We gladly refer the lake tourist and lover of antiquity to a newly-published work, entitled 'Furness and Furness Abbey.' The mass of information here contained, its pictorial and other embellishments, and the superior excellence of its typography, deserve for it an extensive circulation, and reflect the utmost credit on its publisher, Mr. D. ATKINSON, of Ulverston.

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Nibthwaite Nibthwaite is on the east side, near the foot of the lake, and is a station affording noble views of the lake.

Coniston Water CONISTON WATER.- (See page 8.)

Waterhead, Coniston CONISTON WATER HEAD.- There is here a good inn, situated at the head of the lake, and backed by some magnificent fir-trees. Here the tourist may stop for the purpose of making the following trips, which amply repay the delay they require - vix., (1.) The ascent of the Old Man, and the continuation thence as far as the Chapel in Seathwaite, returning by Torver; (2.) The walk into Yewdale and Tilberthwaite; and (3.) The ride or walk round the lake itself. These excursions will be found described in this work.

Hawkshead HAWKSHEAD is a neat small market-town, standing in a warm and sheltered valley, surrounded by the lofty fells of Furness, and is doubtless of great antiquity, although there is no authentic record of its origin. The Free Grammar School has been the nursing mother of many eminent scholars. The beautiful and pastoral lake, Esthwaite Water, may very conveniently be perambulated from this place, and comfortable quarters may be had at the Red Lion. Population, 749; market-day, Monday.

Windermere Ferry The Ferry House is a good inn, delightfully situated on the banks of Windermere. Horses and carriages pass over the lake by this Ferry. Above the inn is a pleasure-house, called the Station, whence some exquisite views are to be had.

Bowness-on-Windermere Bowness is sweetly situated near the centre of

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the eastern shore of Windermere; and from the happiness of its position, is a great rendezvous of tourists, who find good accommodations at the White Lion and The Crown. The islands on the lake may be most conveniently explored from this port.

Miles. KENDAL TO Miles. 4½ Staveley 4½ 4½ Kentmere Tarn 9 5 Small Water 14 3 Chapelhill 17 1 Hawes Water 18 4 Sadgill 22 2 Yewbarrow Hall 24 3½ Watch Gate 27½ 4½ Kendal 32

Staveley Staveley, a large flourishing village, situated in a deep and picturesque part of the vale of Kent, where the Gowel-beck falls into that river.

Kentmere Tarn Kentmere Tarn is in a narrow vale, about two miles in length. The Tarn is one mile long, and cannot be approached except at one point, owing to the swampiness of its margin. Near it stands the ancient Hall, a tower building.

Small Water Small Water is a tarn between High Street and Harter Fell. The tourist, by following the stream which issues out of it, will soon fall down to

Mardale Chapelhill.- Mardale Chapel of Ease, in a picturesque and fertile situation, surrounded by lofty fells, stands here; and Chapelhill is the property and residence of the Holmes', whose ancestor came into this country with the Conqueror.

Hawes Water Hawes Water.- The western side of this lake may be traversed by the tourist, as far as agreeable.

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Sadgill Sadgill.- The return from Chapelhill must be up the hill, having the stream from Small Water on the right, till a small stream is seen flowing down into Long Sleddale, which extends hence about six miles. The chapel stands near the centre of the dale, which is watered by the Sprint.

Ubarrow Hall Yewbarrow Hall is now occupied by a farmer.

Watchgate Watch Gate is on the high road from Kendal to Shap.

Miles. KENDAL TO Miles. 5 Staveley 5 1½ Ings Chapel 6½ 2 Orest Head 8½ 1½ Troutbeck Bridge 10 2 Low Wood Inn 12 1½ Ambleside 13½

Ings Ings Chapel is a neat edifice, rebuilt in 1743.

Orest Head Orest Head is ornamented by several villas, and commands very noble views of Windermere.

Troutbeck Bridge Troutbeck Bridge crosses a rivulet, issuing from the high grounds on the right, and flowing down the deep and picturesque vale of Troutbeck. The village, or rather string of hamlets, bears the names of Town-end, Town-head, High-green, Cragg, and Highfold, and is distant from three to four miles north by east of Bowness, and south-east of Ambleside. From the elevated parts of the road above Troutbeck Bridge, splendid views of Windermere are obtained. The valley of Troutbeck is well worth visiting, and pleasant walks may be contrived to it from Ambleside, Low Wood Inn, and Bowness.

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Low Wood Inn Low Wood Inn, distant from Bowness four and a half miles, is delightfully placed on the margin of a small bay, from which the head of Windermere unfolds itself with exceeding grandeur, the woods and lawns of Brathay Park bounding its receding waters, and backed by the fantastic outline of the Langdale Pikes, and their neighbouring mountain masses. The accommodation at this inn is excellent, and it is a good station for a few days' stay.

Ambleside AMBLESIDE is a small market-town in the vale of the Rothay, romantically built on the side of a hill, commanding prospects of the vale, the parks of Rydal and Brathay, and Windermere. Excellent quarters may be found at the Salutation, the Commercial, and White Lion inns; and from its central situation, the town is generally made the head-quarters of tourists for a considerable time, as many very interesting excursions may be made from it. Population, 1095; market-day, Wednesday.

Windermere WINDERMERE.- (See page 24.)

Ambleside excursions VIII. AMBLESIDE EXCURSIONS.

PLEASANT walks and excursions will serve to engage the tourist for several days at Ambleside.

Stockghyll Force Stockgill Force must not be overlooked. Scandale Beck and Sweden Bridge are delightful evening walks. Wansfell and Skelgill afford prospects from a moderate elevation, which may be accomplished without incurring much fatigue.

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Loughrigg Fell Loughrigg Tarn Loughrigg Fell and Tarn are not to be surpassed, the former in its command of Windermere, Rydal, and Grasmere waters - the latter for the quiet, pastoral character of the scenery, which it presents to the eye that delights in simple, unadorned nature.

The Langdales A more extended excursion generally performed from Ambleside, is that into Langdale, which may be made partly in carriages, although it is more usual to effect it in carts, which way will indeed be found the most convenient and suitable to the roads, as well as enabling the tourist to carry the necessary creature comforts for a mountain ramble. The traveller may proceed, first, to Skelwith Bridge, three miles, just above which is the wild waterfall, called Skelwith Force; then by a road commanding views of Elter Water and great Langdale, he may proceed to Colwith Force, five miles from Ambleside. Three miles up Little Langdale, over a slack on the right, is Blea Tarn, so faithfully depicted in Wordsworth's 'Excursion.' Descending the hill to the head of Great Langdale, the Langdale Pikes appear immediately in front, with Bowfell on the left. The conical pike is called Pike of Stickle, and the broad-headed pike, Harrison Stickle. Great Langdale is entered at the farm-house of Wall End, whence Bowfell may be ascended, or Borrodale penetrated, by passing over the Stake. The regular excursion, however, will bring the tourist down to Millbeck, where he may see the waterfall of Dungeon Gill. Still descending the valley, he may, when in view of Elter Water,

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turn to the left, and cross the hill by High Close, whence are interesting views of Windermere and Langdale, on one side, and the vale and lake of Grasmere, on the other. A road back by Langdale Chapel, will bring him again to Ambleside, after a circuit of nineteen miles, viz.:

Miles. Miles. 3 Skelwith Bridge 3 2 Colwith Force 5 2½ Blea Tarn 7½ 4 Dungeon Gill 11½ 4 Langdale Chapel 15½ 3½ Ambleside, by Rydal 19

Miles. AMBLESIDE TO Miles. 1½ Rydal 1½ 3½ Swan Inn 5 2 Raise Gap 7 1½ Wythburn Chapel 8½ 2¾ King's Head Inn 11¼ 4 Castle Rigg 15¼ 1 Keswick 16¼

Rydal Water Rydal Water is one of the smallest of the lakes, but very beautiful from its wooded islands and shores, which give it an air of great seclusion.- (See page 41.)

Rydal Hall Rydal Mount Rydal Hall has been converted into a large staring mansion, from the interesting and picturesque form of the old Westmorland hall. In the grounds are two beautiful cascades, extremely pretty as garden scenes. Rydal Mount is the residence of that contemplative, philosophic, and soul-subduing poet, William Wordsworth, Esq.

Grasmere GRASMERE is a mile beyond Rydal, and is surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains, from any elevated situations on which, and wherever

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chosen, romantic views may be obtained of this most lovely vale and its green-enamelled lake, with the fine old church and the white-washed houses shining out from amidst their wood-girt enclosures. The Swan Inn stands by the road-side, and a little distant on the left, near the church, is the Red Lion. Both these inns will afford sufficient accommodation for a tourist, disposed to journey into the hidden beauties of this and its auxiliary vale of Easedale. On the left, in passing up this valley, the traveller will observe a lofty conical hill; it is called Helm Crag. The summit is composed of vast rocks, in whose forms fancy has discovered the resemblance of a lion and a lamb.

Dunmail Raise DUNMAIL RAISE is a large cairn, now marking the boundary line between Westmorland and Cumberland: tradition ascribes it to the memory of a British king of that name, who was here defeated and slain in battle by Edmund I. of England. A little beyond this dreary and wind-swept pass, there is a view, forward, of the cold and forbidding vale and water of Wythburn, bounded by the sloping sides of Helvellyn and Seat Sandal on the right, and by the Borrodale fells on the left, with Skiddaw closing in the view to the north.

Wythburn Wythburn Chapel.- Opposite to this is the Horse Head Inn, the half-way house between Ambleside and Keswick. A guide may be obtained here for ascending Helvellyn, which is most accessible hence.

Thirlmere Wythburn Water, known also as Thirlmere or Leathes Water, is a narrow and deep lake, divided

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into two by a wooden bridge and piers. The lower end of this water ought to be visited, and a pleasant, agreeable tour may be made from Keswick, by approaching it along Shoolthwaite Moss, keeping up its western side, under Raven Crag, as far as Armboth House. Here crossing the lake, pass through Dalehead Park into the public road; thence through Legberthwaite, having the castle rock of St. John's on the right, to Threlkeld, and so to Keswick.

King's Head, Legburthwaite King's Head is a decent house of entertainment, situated in Legberthwaite, a vale which comprises as much pastoral beauty, enclosed in as much stern and wildly-magnificent scenery, as any in the district. A little beyond this, the picturesque bridge of Smalthwaite spans, with a single arch, St. John's Beck, in its progress to unite its streams with the Glenderamaken and the Glenderaterra, after which it is known as the Greta.

Castlerigg Castle Rigg.- Before arriving here, you pass through the dreary moss of Shoolthwaite, whence there is a retrospective view of Helvellyn from his base to his crown. The view from Castle Rigg must be left to speak for itself.

Keswick KESWICK, a small market-town between the foot of Skiddaw and Derwent Water. It may be considered as the capital of the Lakes, and is frequented by a great number of visitors during the season, who make excursions from it to the surrounding lakes, valleys, and mountains. It has manufactures of woollens, black lead pencils, spades, &c.

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There are two museums, containing many curiosities, and specimens of the mineralogy and geology of the district. Guides, horses, and boats, may be obtained for excursions, and all the accommodations for visitors are good. Population, 2159; market-day, Saturday; inns, Royal Oak and Queen's Head.

Miles. KESWICK TO Miles. 2 Barrow House 2 1 Lowdore Inn 3 1 Grange 4 1 Manesty 5 3½ Portinscale 8½ 1½ Keswick 10

Barrow House Barrow House is the residence of Joseph Pocklington Senhouse, Esq. Behind the house is a cascade, 122 feet in height, in two falls.

Lodore Falls Lowdore Inn.- Close to the inn, in the ravine betwixt Gowdar Crag and Shepherd's Crag, is the fall of Lowdore, so whimsically described by Southey. In dry weather, the water almost disappears amongst the jumbled pile of rocks, over which, when full, it rushes with tremendous impetuosity and force.

Grange Grange is a small village, at the entrance of the narrow pass which leads into Borrodale.

Manesty Manesty.- Near this place is a medicinal spring; and the retrospective view over its woods into Borrodale, is magnificent, especially if seen under the influence of a setting sun.

Portinscale Portinscale is a small village, near the foot of Derwent Water. Near it are situated the villas

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of Derwent Bay, Derwent Bank, and Derwent Lodge. From the neighbouring heights may be viewed the lakes of Derwent Water and Bassenthwaite, with all the finely-wooded and fertile country reaching from Swinside to Skiddaw.

Miles. KESWICK TO Miles. 3 Lodore Inn 3 2 Bowder Stone 5 1 Rossthwaite 6 2 Watendlath 8 3 Ashness 11 3 Keswick 14

Lodore Hotel Lodore Inn.- Proceeding forward, as in the last route, the tourist must keep the river on his right hand. The pass presents grand and savage scenery, the road in many places making such abrupt windings as to appear occasionally blocked up. The river runs in a deep channel, with rocky banks, considerably below the road, and the mountains rise on either hand in rugged and awful precipices. Castle Crag rises up into a bold cone, crested with wood, almost in the middle of the pass. The Romans, with military precision, fortified this eminence.

Bowder Stone BOWDER STONE is a rock of great dimensions, which has probably fallen at some far-distant period from the crags above. The stone is 62 feet long, and 36 feet high, its circumference is 89 feet, and it weighs 1971 tons. from this point a fine view of Borrodale is obtained. The village of Rossthwaite lies in front, overhung as it were by Glaramara and Eagle Crag.

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Rosthwaite Rossthwaite.- Near this village is the Chapel of Ease, standing at the point whence the three vales or grains of this extensive valley diverge. Whilst here, the tourist should extend his ramble into Stonethwaite, and return. Refreshment may be had here; and then let the visitor cross the river behind the inn, and strike right up the fell, immediately in front. In this ascent the most splendid and magnificent views open out, which bid defiance to the pen.

Watendlath Watendlath is a narrow upland glen, through which runs a mountain stream issuing out of Blea Tarn, lying high up on the lonely fells. A hamlet, consisting of two or three houses, is sweetly reflected in the small tarn, the surplus water of which escapes under an extremely rude but picturesque bridge at its foot.

Ashness Bridge Ashness.- The tourist must then proceed down the narrow valley till he comes into the high road round Derwent Water, by Ashness. Above the fall of Lodore, the view of the lake of Keswick, with the gleaming surface of Bassenthwaite in the distance, is particularly fine.

Miles. KESWICK TO Miles. 6 Rossthwaite 6 2 Seatoller 8 4 Gatesgarth 12 2 Buttermere 14 5 Newlands 19 4 Keswick 23

Seatoller Seatoller is a hamlet in the upper part of Borrodale. A carriage may proceed as far as this

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place; but here begins the ascent of Borrodale Hawse, and the road is so narrow, rugged, and steep, that cars pass with great difficulty. After reaching the summit, Honister Crag on the left, and Yew Crag on the right, come in view. Honister Crag is 1500 feet in height. Passing down a very rugged path, which crosses the water several times, it leads through a desolate valley to the hamlet of Gatesgarth, and the vale of Buttermere.

Buttermere BUTTERMERE is perhaps the most deeply embosomed in mountains, of all these fairy sheets of water. It is bordered on the east by woods and meadows, and on the west, by the steeps of High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike. (See page 89.)

Crummock Water CRUMMOCK WATER is separated from Buttermere by a small tract of flat meadow. The head of the lake is beautiful, the middle part grand, and the foot richly adorned with wood. On the west side of Crummock is Scale Force, situated in a deep chasm, and the water-falls, at a single leap, 156 feet. (See page 89.)

The road leads up from the inn by the humble little chapel, between Whiteless and Robinson, diversified by little of scenery, till the traveller approaches Keskadale, whence there is a prospect of the smiling vale of Newlands.

Newlands Valley NEWLANDS contains several scattered hamlets, and is intersected by a stream which flows to Bassenthwaite Water. The mountain called Hindscar pushes itself into the vale with much grandeur. The chapel of ease stands in the

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pleasantest part of the vale, near Little Town. (See page 92.)

Portinscale Portinscale. (See page 56.)

Keswick Keswick. (See page 51.)

Miles. KESWICK TO Miles. 9 Buttermere, by Newlands 9 4 Scalehill 13 2 Lowes Water 15 4 Lamplugh Cross 19 3 Ennerdale Bridge 22 7 Calder Bridge 29 Miles. KESWICK TO (sic) Miles. 3 Gosforth 3 4 Strands 7 6 Wastdale Head 13 2 Stye Head 15 3 Seathwaite 18 3 Rossthwaite 21 6 Keswick 27

Scale Hill Scalehill.- Here is an excellent inn, situated at the foot of the lake, at which the tourist may arrive, either by the vale of Newlands, or by the nearer route over Whinlatter, and by Lorton.

Lowes Water Lowes Water is surrounded by noble mountains, and pours its waters into Crummock Lake.

Lamplugh Cross Lamplugh Cross.- Near this is the old Hall of Lamplugh, situated at the foot of a green hill, commanding an extensive view to the north and north-west. The church is an antique building, near the gateway of the Hall.

Ennerdale Bridge Ennerdale Bridge.- Descending the hill to this place, is Stockhow Hall, whence there is a pretty view of the fertile vale of Ennerdale, and of the

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lake stretching up to the high mountains. There is a public-house here, where refreshment may be had.

Calder Bridge Calder Abbey Calder Bridge.- From Ennerdale the traveller must proceed over the bleak fells of Copeland Forest, significantly called Cold Fell, to Calder Bridge, where are two inns, at which accommodation for the night may be obtained. A beautiful walk up the river leads to Calder Abbey, a fine specimen of Norman and early English architecture. Close to the village, in a spacious park, stands Ponsonby Hall.

On the second day, the tourist must proceed to

Gosforth The Strands Gosforth, a large, irregularly-built village, where the antiquarian tourist will be gratified by the inspection of a tall and beautifully ornamented pillar, which stands in the churchyard, on the south side. From this village, two roads lead to Wast Water - one directly to the left, over rising grounds, which brings you immediately to the lake; the other is by the Strands. Here are two good inns, about a mile and a half below the foot of the lake. At Crookhead is a very picturesque cottage.

Wast Water WAST WATER.- The principal approach to this lake is that by which we have introduced the tourist to it, viz. by the foot. This lake is well worth the notice of the traveller who is not afraid of fatigue: no part of the country is more distinguished by sublimity.

Wasdale Head Wastdale Head contains only a few scattered houses; and its small chapel has only eight pews, and is without a burial-ground.

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Sty Head Stye Head.- From this hamlet, the tourist must ascend the road which winds along the side of Great Gable to the summit of the pass, having the Pikes of Scafell on the right.

Seathwaite Seathwaite.- Thence the road leads down into the pastoral vale of Borrodale, having on the left, near this village, the far-famed Wad Mine.

Hence the road has been described to Keswick.

Miles. KESWICK TO Miles. 1 Castle Rigg 1 3 Shoolthwaite Moss 4 2½ Raven Crag 6½ ½ Armboth House 7 1 Dalehead Hall 8 2 Legberthwaite Mill 10 2 Lowthwaite 12 2 Threlkeld 14 4 Keswick 18

This tour has already been noticed, and will be found a very pleasant one.

Miles. WHITEHAVEN TO Miles. 2 Moresby 2 2 Distington 4 2 Winscales 6 3 Little Clifton 9 5 Cockermouth 14 2½ Embleton 16½ 6½ Thornthwaite 23 4 Keswick 27

Whitehaven WHITEHAVEN is a well-built town. During the last century, it has risen into importance in consequence of its vicinity to the extensive coal-mines of the Earl of Lonsdale. The harbour is large and safe, being protected by an extensive pier, built after a design by Sir John Rennie. Upwards of 140,000 chaldrons of coals are annually exported.

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There are three churches in the town, a Scotch church, and several dissenting meeting-houses. Steam-packets ply between Dublin and Whitehaven regularly, as well as Liverpool, the Isle of Man, and Scotland. This town sends one member to Parliament. Population, 11,393; market-days, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday; inns, Black Lion, Golden Lion, and Globe.

Cockermouth COCKERMOUTH. (See page 81.)

Bassenthwaite Lake Bassenthwaite Water. (See page 85.)

Keswick Keswick. (See page 51.)

Miles. Workington to Cockermouth 8 Cockermouth to Keswick 13

Workington WORKINGTON, a sea-port of Cumberland, situated on the south bank of the Derwent, has a good harbour, and an extensive trade in coal, from the valuable collieries of Henry Curwen, Esq., and several other collieries, many of which are at a considerable distance. On the east side of the town is Workington Hall, the manor-house of the ancient family of Curwen, finely situated on an elevated position above the river. It is remarkable as having afforded an asylum to the unfortunate and persecuted Mary Queen of Scots, when she landed at Workington. Population, 6415; market-day, Wednesday; inns, Green Dragon, New Crown, and King's Arms.

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Miles. KESWICK TO Miles. 4 Threlkeld 4 7½ Penruddock 11½ 3½ Stainton 15 2½ Penrith 17½

Threlkeld Threlkeld.- On the right is seen the truly interesting valley of St. John, at the high end of which is a mass of rock, called the Castle Rock of St. John.

Penruddock Penruddock.- About three miles to the left, and visible from the high-road, is Greystoke Castle, the seat of Henry Howard, Esq., a fine and ancient structure, containing some splendid pictures, and many objects of curiosity.

Penrith Penrith. (See page 131.)

Miles. PENRITH TO Miles. 4½ Salkeld Great 4½ ½ Plumpton 5 4¼ High Hesket 9¼ 1½ Low Hesket 10¾ 4¾ Carleton 15½ 1 Harraby 16½ 1½ Carlisle 18

Plumpton Plumpton.- On the left are the ruins of Old Penrith, formerly a Roman station, traces of which still remain. It was 170 yards from south to north, and 110 from east to west. The station is about 200 yards from the river Petteril. The ramparts are still high, and the ditch very visible. Horsley supposes it to have been Bremetereracum.

High Hesket High Hesket, a large village, half-way between

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Carlisle and Penrith. Has an excellent inn, the White Ox, conducted by Mrs. Pearson. On the right is Tarn Wadling, a lake covering about one hundred acres of ground.

Carlisle CARLISLE. (See page 100.)

XIX. Tour from Carlisle SKETCH OF A TOUR FROM CARLISLE TO THE LAKES,

Comprising most interesting and beautiful Scenery.

'CARLISLE - Bush, Crown and Mitre, and Royal Hotels, excellent - Cathedral - Castle:- Corby Castle, the picturesque seat of Philip Henry Howard, Esq. M.P. - Castle and walks shown every Wednesday - will occupy a day, returning to Carlisle.

'Leaving Carlisle, at six miles on the London road, by the left, proceed to the village of Armathwaite; cross the river Eden, by the right, to Nunnery, the seat of H. A. Aglionby, Esq. M.P.- the walks on the Eden and Croglin rivers are magnificent, and shown daily; cross the river Croglin to Staffold Hall - the walks on the Eden and Croglin, equally splendid, are shown every day; through the market-town of Kirkoswald, on the left, and then on the right, through Glassonby; then on the right, in half a mile, on the right in a field, a slight deviation from the road, there is a druidical monument called 'Long Meg and her Daughters,' consisting of one very high

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stone, and about sixty others, forming a circle, the property of Colonel Lacy of Eden Lacy; through the village of Little Salkeld to Longwathby; cross the river Eden to Penrith - Crown Hotel and George Inn, excellent. The drive is about twenty-seven miles, and four horses in posting, &c. recommended.

'Lowther Castle, the seat of the Earl of Lonsdale - Castle and grounds shown daily; from Lowther, on the left, cross the river Lowther to Eusemere, at the foot of Ulleswater Lake; proceed to the head of the lake, Patterdale; returning down the lake, Lyulph's Tower, the property of Henry Howard, Esq. of Greystoke Castle - a cascade in the grounds - proceed down the lake, and by the banks of the river Eamont to Penrith.

'Leave Penrith for Keswick, Derwent Water, and Bassenthwaite Lakes, Borrodale, Barrow Cascade; from Keswick to Cockermouth, by Bassenthwaite Lake, Buttermere Lake, and Scale Force Cascade, Lowes Water Lake, Crummock Lake. Return to Keswick by the same road, or by Whinlatter Fell.

'Leave Keswick for Ambleside, Grasmere Lake, Rydal Cascade, Windermere Lake, Coniston Lake, &c. - Leave Ambleside for Kendal.'

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No. Names of Lakes. Height above sea in feet. Length in miles. Breadth in miles. Depth in fathoms. 1 Coniston Water 6 - - ¾ 27 - 30 2 Devoke Water ½ - 3 Wast Water 3 - 3½ ½ - ¾ 45 - 4 Ennerdale Water 2½ - ¾ - 13 - 5 Buttermere 1¼ - ½ - 15 - 6 Crummock Water 273 3 - ¾ - 22 - 7 Lowes Water ¾ - ½ - 10 - 8 Thirlmere 546 2½ - 2¾ ¾ - 18 - 9 Derwent Water 228 3 - 1½ - 14 - 10 Bassenthwaite Lake 210 4 - 3½ 1 - 12 - 11 Brothers Water ¾ - ½ - 12 - 12 Ulles Water 318 9 - 1 - 20 - 35 13 Hawes Water 714 3 - - ½ 50 - 14 Kentmere 15 Grasmere 180 1 - - ½ 12 - 16 Rydal Water 156 ½ - 1 ½ - 9 - 17 Elter Water ¾ - 18 Windermere 108 10 - 12 1 - 2 40 - 37 19 Esthwaite Water 198 2 - 1¾ ½ - 13 -

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No. Names of Mountains. Dalton. Otley. Trig. S. Jamieson 1 Sca Fell Pike 3160 3166 2 Sca Fell 3240 3100 3 Helvellyn 3210 3070 3313 4 Skiddaw 3180 3022 5 Bow Fell 3090 2911 6 Rydal Head 3090 7 Great Gable, Wastdale 2925 8 Fairfield 2950 9 Cross Fell, near Alston 2901 3383 10 Pillar 2893 11 Grasmoor 2865 2756 12 Red Pike, Buttermere 2850 13 Blencathra, Saddleback 2787 2789 2889 14 Kentmere, High Street 2736 2700 15 Grisedale Pike 2580 2680 16 Coniston Old Man 2580 2577 2576 17 Hill Bell 2436 18 Langdale Pikes 2400 19 Carrick, near Caldbeck 2232 2110 2290 2000 20 Calf Hill 2188 21 Nine Standards, Yorkshire, and Wastend 2136 22 High Pike, Caldbeck 2101 23 Causey Pike 2030 2040 24 Goat Scar, Hawes Water 1989 25 Black Combe 1919 26 Lord's Seat 1728 27 Wans Fell 1500 28 Cat Bell 1448 29 Latrigg 1160 30 Dent, near Whitehaven 1115 31 Penrith Beacon 1020 32 Kendal Fell 648 33 Scilly Bank, Whitehaven 500 34 Egremont 293 35 Kendal 138

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No. Name and Situation of Fall. Height. 1 Scale Force, near Buttermere 196 feet. 2 Colwith Force, five miles from Ambleside 152 ,, 3 Stockgill Force, near Ambleside 150 ,, 4 Barrow Cascade, two miles from Keswick 122 ,, 5 Lodore Fall, near Keswick 150 ,, 6 Dungeon Gill, Langdale 90 ,, 7 Sour Milk Force, near Buttermere 60 ,, 8 Airey Force, Gowbarrow Park 80 ,, 9 Rydal Fall, near Ambleside 70 ,, 10 Birker Force, Eskdale 65 ,, 11 Stanley Gill, near Eskdale 62 ,, 12 Nunnery Fall, one mile from Kirkoswald 60 ,, 13 Skelwith Force 20 ,, 14 Howk, Caldbeck 50 ,,

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CARLISLE TO LIVERPOOL. CARLISLE TO MANCHESTER. CARLISLE TO EDINBURGH. CARLISLE TO GLASGOW. CARLISLE TO NEWCASTLE. CARLISLE TO WHITEHAVEN. CARLISLE TO PORT PATRICK. Miles. Miles. Miles. Miles. Miles. Miles. Miles. Penrith 18 Penrith 18 Longtown 9 Gretna 10 Brampton 10 Wigton 11 Gretna 10 Shap 11 Shap 11 Langholm 12 Lockerbie 15 Haltwhistle 11 Allonby 11 Annan 7 Kendal 16 Kendal 16 Mosspaul 10 Beatock Bridge 14 Hexham 15 Maryport 5 Dumfries 16 Burton 11 Burton 11 Hawick 13 Crawford 16 Newcastle 20 Workington 7 Castle Douglas 16 Lancaster 11 Lancaster 11 Selkirk 12 Douglas Mill 12 Whitehaven 8 Gatehouse 14 Garstang 11 Garstang 11 Torsonce 14 Hamilton 18 Or, by the Railway. Newton Stewart 17 Preston 11 Preston 11 Fushie Bridge 14 Glasgow 11 Glenluce 17 Ormskirk 20 Chorley 9 Edinburgh 12 Stranraer 10 Liverpool 13 Bolton 11 Port Patrick 6 Manchester 12 *122 *121 96 96 56 42 113

* Or by Railway from Lancaster.

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Towns. Inns. Innkeepers. Miles. Penrith Crown Foster 18 Appleby King's Head Herd 14 Brough Castle Kilvington 8 Greta Bridge George Martin 19 Catterick Bridge George Fryer 14 Leeming Lane New Inn Couldwell 11 Borough Bridge Crown Cook 12 Wetherby Angel Clemishaw 12 Ferry Bridge Angel Atkinson 17 Doncaster Angel Brooks 15 Barnby Moor Bell Inett 14 Scarthing Moor Black Lion Sharpe 13 Newark Clinton Arms Lawton 11 Grantham George Burbidge 14 Witham Common Bull Hardy 10 Wansford Hay Cock Percival 17 Alconbury Hill Wheat Sheaf Warsop 16 Eaton Cock Walker 13 Biggleswade Lion Mitcheil 10 Stevenage Swan Cass 14 Hatfield Salisbury Arms Townsend 12 Barnet Green Man Newman 9 London 12 Total 305

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The index is arranged in two columns on the page; this layout is not preserved by this transcription. The occasional mistake in alphabetical order is not corrected. Pages 183-190:-

index INDEX.

Aaron End 69 Airey Force 146 Allithwaite 155 Allonby 64 Ambleside 17, 27, 32, 161 --- Fells 16 --- Hall 34 Anglebarrow 80 Angle Tarn 143 Angling Stone 80 Applethwaite 30, 53 Armathwaite 125 --- Castle 125 --- Hall 85 Armboth 49 Arnside 155 Ascent of the Old Man 10 Ashness 53, 61, 168 Arthur's Round Table 133 Askham 135 Bampton 137 Barnscar 13 Baron Wood 124 Barrow Cascade 55, 61, 166 --- Common 55 --- House 166 Barton 142 Bassenthwaite 85 --- Haws 86 Bays Brown 69 Beathwaite Green 19 Beauthorn 143 Beetham 152 Belle Grange 25, 30 --- Isle 26 Bellman Ground 25, 27 Belo River 17 Berkshire Island 27 Bewcastle 102 Binsey 64 Birdoswald 115 Birkby Fell 13 Birk Fell 144 Birker Force 13 Birkrigg 157 Blackcombe 15 Black Sale 80 Blake Fell 80 --- Rigg 44 Blea Tarn 37, 61, 143 Bleabury Fell 92 Blelham Tarn 34 Blencathra 50, 65 Blenkinsopp Castle 118 Blowick 148 Bolton-le-Sands 152 Bootle 14, 15 Bordale 145 Borrodale 56, 61, 66 --- Chapel 68 --- Hawse 169 Bowderdale 72 Bowder Stone 67, 167 Bowness 17, 23, 27, 28, 158 --- Church 28 --- Rectory 27, 29 --- Knott 80 Bowscale 95 Bradness 85 Braithwaite 58 Brampton 118 Brandelow 56 Branstree 138 Brathay 23, 24, 36, 38 --- Bridge 36 Brathay Park 31 Bridekirk 84 Brother Water 149 Brougham Castle 134 --- Hall 133 Broughton 12, 15 Brow Top 51 Brundholm 66 Bull Crag 48 Burnmoor Tarn 72 Butterlip How 42, 44 Buttermere 89, 169 --- Moss 89 --- Hawse 90 Caldbeck 96 Calder Abbey 73 --- Bridge 73 Caldew 97 Calgarth 23 --- Park 24, 27, 30 Camcoom Head 88 Capon Tree 118 Carleton 174 Carlisle 1, 100 --- Castle 102 --- Cathedral 103 --- Grammar School 107 --- Infirmary 106 --- & Liverpool Steamers 107 Carnforth 152 Carrick fell 95 Carrs, Great and Little 37 Cartmel 3, 155 --- Bay 5 --- Holy Well 3, 155 Castle Crag 50, 57, 66, 167 --- Head 58 --- Hill 53 --- How 80 --- Rigg 50, 165 Catbells 55, 64 Caton 154 Causey Pikes 64 Chapelhill 159 City 48 Claife 17 Clappersgate 23, 36 Claughton 154 Cleator 79 Clifton 134 Cocker 82, 83 Cockermouth 81 --- Church 82 --- Castle 83 Cockley Beck 12 Cockshot 58 Coldale Fell 43 Colwith Force 37, 162 Conishead Priory 5 Coniston Church 12 --- Fells 9 --- Hall 9, 10 --- Old Man 8, 10 --- Water 8, 12, 158 Cooms 124 Copeland Forest 75 Corby 119 Countess Pillar 134 Cowbridge 149 Crake 8 Criffel 102 Croglin 126, 127 Crosby 108 Crossdale 80 Cross Fell 60 Crossthwaite 52 --- Church 45, 152 Crow Holm 29 --- Park 53, 57 Crummock Water 90, 169 Cumwhitton 124 Curwen's or Belle Isle 26, 29 Dacre 142 Dalegarth Hall 13 Dalehead Hall 49, 50 --- Park 165 Dalemain 142 Dalston 99 --- Hall 99 Dalton 5, 156 Deargarth Cascades 49 Deepdale 149 Deepthwaite 153 Denton 115 Derwent River 56, 81 --- Vale 86 --- Water 53, 64, 86, 166 Dockwray 147 Dolly-Waggon Pike 46 Dowthwaite 147 Dove Crag 149 --- Nest 27 Druid's Circle 59 Drummer's Stile 23 Duddon 12, 15 Dufton Pikes 132 Dunald Millhole 152 Dungeon Gill 38 Dunmallet 143 Dunmail Raise 45, 164 Eagle Crag 68 Eaglesfield 81 Eamont 132, 134 --- Bridge 135 Easedale 43 --- Tarn 24, 44 Eden 124, 125 Edenhall 130 Edmond Castle 124 Egremont 75 Ehen 75, 79 Elevation of Mountains 178 Elleray 23 Elter Water 24, 39 Embleton 85 Ennerdale Bridge 81, 170 --- Water 79 Eskdale 13 Esthwaite Hall 17 --- Water 16, 158 Etterby Scar 101 Fairfield 9, 12, 34 Fairy's Kettle 96 Fairy Kirk 97 Falcon Crag 92 Featherstone Castle 118 Fell Foot 27, 37 Ferry House 29, 158 --- Inn 27 Fisher Crag 48 Floating Island 54 Flookboro' 156 Floutern tarn 80 Foe Park 56 Fordingdale Beck 138 Friar Crag 58 Furness Abbey 2, 6 --- Fells 15, 29 Gable 71, 72, 80 Gait Crags 50 Gale 34 Gatesgarth 88 Gavel Fell 80 Gelt Bridge, Low 118 --- Middle 118 Giant's Thumb 131 Giller Coom 69 Gillerthwaite 80 Gilsland Spa 115 Glaramara 55 Glencoin 147 Glenderamaken 65 Glenderaterra 65 Glenridding 147 Goat's Water 12 Goldrill Beck 143 --- Crag 12, 13 Goldscope 93 Goody Bridge 44 Gosforth 73, 171 Gowbarrow 144, 146 Gowdar Crag 56 Grange 56, 166 Grasmere 41, 163 --- Church & Rectory 43 --- Fells 9, 16 --- Red Lion 43 Grasmire 64 Grathwaite 25 Graysdale Tarn 148 Greystoke Castle 133, 174 --- Park 95 Great Dodd 49 Great End 70 Green Crag 62 Greenup 68 Greta 59, 165 Grisedale Beck 143 --- Pike 92 Grizedale 64 Gunner's How 16, 27, 30 Hackthorpe 141 Hale 75 Hallin Fell 143 Hallsteads 145 Hard Knot 37 Harrop Tarn 48 Harter Fell 138 Hartsope Low 149 --- Hall 149 Hasness 88 Hawes Water 137, 159 Hawksdale 99 Hawkshead 15, 158 --- Church 17 --- Old Hall 16 Haycocks 72 Haystacks 68 Hayton 119 --- Church 124 Heathwaite 23 Helm Crag 42, 164 Helvellyn 9, 45 Hen Holm Island 26 Herd House 80 Hest Bank 155 Hesket-New-Market 96 Heversham 17, 153 High Broad Rain 44 --- Crag 93 --- Hesket 174 --- Nook 80 --- Pike 95 --- Stile 88 --- Street 26, 31 --- Wray 25, 30 Hill Bell 26 Hindscarth 64 Hind Crag 69 Hindsgarth 93 Holker Hall 4, 156 Hollin Grove 44 Holm Hill 99 --- Crag 56 Honistar Crag 88, 169 Hornby Castle 154 Horse Head Inn, Wythburn 45 How Hall 80 --- Town 144 Howk 96 Howray 57 Humphrey Head 3 Hutton Moor 60 --- Hall 133 --- John 142 INTRODUCTION iii Ings 23, 160 Ingleborough 155 Ireby 64 Iron Crags 50 Irt 14, 72 Irthing 108 Irthington 108 Isthmus 92 Ivy Cottage 41 --- Crag 35 Jenkin Hill 92 Karl Lofts 141 Keer 2 Kendal 19, 153 --- Castle 20 --- Castlehow Hill 20 --- Church 21 --- St. George's 21 --- White Hall 20 Kent 18, 19, 20 --- Bank 3 --- Mere 139 --- Sands 3 Kentmere Tarn 159 --- Hall 139 Keppel Cove Tarn 46 Keskadale 93, 169 Keswick 51, 165 --- Church 52 Kidsty Pike 138 King Water 108 King's Head, Legberthwaite 50 Kirkby Lonsdale 17, 154 --- Stephen 132 Kirkcambeck 108 Kirkfell 72 Kirkoswald 128 --- Church and Castle 128 --- College 129 Kirkstone 145, 149 Knockmurton 81 Knott Crags 65 Lamplugh Cross 170 --- Church 81 Lancaster 2, 151 --- Sands 2, 155 Lanercost 109 Langdale Chapel 39 --- Great 36, 162 --- Head 24, 39 --- Little 37, 162 --- Pikes 25, 36, 162 Langstreth 68 Langthwaite Green 91 Latrigg 53, 66 Lazonby 128 Leathes Water 47 --- West Side of 62 Legberthwaite 49, 165 --- Mill 63 Lemon Hall 143 Length & Breadth of Lakes 177 Leven River 11, 24, 27 --- Sands 4, 156 Levens Bridge 153 --- Chapel 18 --- Hall 18 --- Water 11 Lile Fell 65 Lily of the Valley Islands 29 Lingholm 26 Lingmell Crags 71 Lingmire 36 Linthwaite Pike 65 Little Salkeld 128, 130 Liza 80 Long Bridge 57 --- Meg 129 Longwathby 130 Lonscale 56 Lord's Island 54, 92 --- Oak 40 --- Seat 85 Lorton 91 Loughrigg Fell 35, 162 --- Tarn 35, 162 Lodore 53, 55, 166 --- Inn 56, 66 Low House 124 Lowes Water 91, 170 Lowick 8 --- Bridge 8, 157 Lowther 135 Lowthwaite 63 Low Hesket 174 --- Water 11 --- Wood Inn 27, 31, 161 Lune 2 Lyulph's Tower 146 Man, Isle of 11, 15 Maiden Moor 93 Manesty 166 Mardale Chapel 138 Martindale 145 Maryport 64 Matterdale 147 Mayburgh 133 Melbreak 90 Mell Fell 92 Mickle Door 71 Middle Fell 72 --- Tongue 46 Mill Beck in Langdale 38 --- Bassenthwaite 87 Miller Bridge 35 --- Ground 30 Milnthorpe 2, 17, 152 Mirehouse 87 Mite 14 Monarch Isle 23 Morecam Bay 24, 155 Mosedale in Seathwaite 12 Mossdale 95 Muncaster Castle 13 Mungrisdale 94 Nab Scar 34 Naddle Fell 48, 60 Nanbield Pass 139 Naworth 112 Nether Beck 72 --- Bridge 73 --- Wasdale 73 Nettleslack Bridge 13 Newby Bridge 27 Newcastle & Carlisle Railw. 107 Newfield 13 Newlands 92, 169 Nibthwaite 9, 158 Nichol Forest 124 Nook Bridge 34 Nunnery 126 Oaks 99 Old Man 10 --- Penrith 174 Orchard House 115 Orest Head 160 Ormathwaite 53, 63 Orton 22 Over Beck 72 --- Bridge 73 Oxen Houses 9 Papcastle 84 Patterdale 148 Pavey Ark 38 Peel Castle 15 --- Island 10 Penny Bridge 8 Penrith 1, 131 --- Beacon 132 --- Castle 132 Penruddock 174 Petteril River 100 Pillar 73, 80 Place Fell 144 Plumpton 174 Plumptree Bank & Hall 153 Ponsonby Hall 74, 171 Pooley Bridge 142 Portinscale 56, 166 Posting & Coaching Routes 180 Priestman 65 Prospect Hill 128 Raise Beck 44 --- Gap 24, 43 Rampsbeck 143 Rampsholm 54 Randerson's Band 67 Rannerdale Knott 90 Raven Crag 48 Ravenglass 14 Rawlinson's Nab 24, 25 Rayrigg 24, 25 Red Lion, Grasmere 43 --- Pike 64, 88 --- Tarn 46 Rickerby 101 Riggendale 138 Robinson 64, 89 Rose Castle 97 --- Hill 115 Rosthwaite 67, 168 Rothay 24, 41, 44 Rougha Bridge 50 Route from Carlisle to Lond. 181 Rydal Falls 40 --- Fells 9, 16 --- Hall 40, 163 --- Mount 41, 163 --- Water 41, 163 Saddleback 65 Sadgill 140, 160 St. Bees 77 --- College 78 St. Cuthbert's, Carlisle 105 St. Herbert's Island 54 St. John's Beck 50 --- Chapel 63 --- Dodd 92 --- Rock 62, 174 --- Vale 49 St. Mary, Ulverston 4 St. Mary's Holme 109 St. Sunday Crag 46 Sca Fell 39, 70 Scale Force 89 --- Hill 91, 170 Scales 65 --- Tarn 65 Scandale Beck 34, 161 --- Bridge 34 --- Fell 29, 33 Scarf Gap 80 Scarness 85 Screes 73 Seathwaite 12, 172 --- Bridge 69 --- Chapel 13 --- Tarn 12 --- Village 68, 69 Seatoller 69, 168 Seton Nun 14 --- Hall 14 Seat Sandal 42 Sebergham 97 Shap Abbey 140 Shaws Hotel, Gilsland 115 Shepherd's Crag 56 Shire Stones 12 Shoolthwaite 49 Silver How, in Langdale 39 --- Grasmere 42 Sizergh Hall 19, 153 Skelgill 25, 34 Skelwith Force 24, 36 --- Bridge 162 Sketch of a Tour 175 Skiddaw 63 Sleddale, Long 140 Smalthwaite Bridge 50 Small Water 139, 159 Smithy Beck 80 Solway 64 Soulby Fell 145 Sour Milk Gill 44 Souter Fell 94 South Pike, Scafell 70 Sprinkling Tarn 70 Sprint River 140 Stable Field 53 Staffold Hall 126 Stainmore 132 Stair Mill 93 Stake 68 Stanley Gill 13 Stanwix 101 Station House 29 Staveley 23, 159 --- Nether 140 Steel Bridge 44 --- Fell 45 Stickle Tarn 38 Stockgill Force 33, 161 Stockley Bridge 70 Stonethwaite 68 Stoney Croft Bridge 93 Storrs Hall 24, 27 Strands 73 Strickland Kettle 140 Striding Edge 46 Stybarrow 144, 147 Stye Head 70, 172 Styx 46 Swan Inn, Grasmere 44 Swarth Fell 143 Swarthmoor Hall 5 Sweden Bridge 161 Swindale 140 Swinside 57 Swirrel Edge 46 Tarn Crag, Saddleback 65 --- Hows 12 Wadling 64, 175 Taylor's Gill 70 Tent Lodge 10 Thirlmere 47 Thirwall Castle 117 Thornthwaite 92 --- Fell 92 Thrang Crag 39 Threlkeld 94, 174 Thrimby 141 Tilberthwaite 9, 12 --- Fells 9 Tippal 117 Tirril 142 Torver 15 --- Wood 27 Triermain Castle 118 Troutbeck 24, 31 --- Bridge 32, 160 --- Hundreds 139 Ulles Water 46, 143 Ulverston 4, 156 Underbarrow 22 Vicar's Island 54, 92 Vicarage, Keswick 53 Wad Mine 69 Wall End 37 Wallow Crag 55, 58 Walna Scar 12 Walney Island 11, 15 Walton 108 --- House 108 Wansfell 34 Wanthwaite Crags 50, 63 Warnel Fell 97 --- Hall 97 Warton Crag 155 Warwick Bridge 124 --- Hall 123 Wast Water 72, 171 Wastdale 71, 171 Watch Gate 160 Watendlath 61, 168 Waterfalls 179 Water End 56 Water Head, Coniston 9, 155 --- Windermere 25, 32 Watermillock 143 --- Old Church 144 Wedderlamb 37 Welton 97 Wetheral 121 --- Priory 123 --- Safeguards 122 Whelpside 46 Whelter 138 Whinlatter 92 Whitehaven 1, 78, 172 Whiteless 93 White Moss Slate Quarry 41 White Pike 94 Whiteside 46 White Water Dash 86 Wigton 64 Wildbore Fell 132 Windermere 23, 24 --- Ferry 17 Workington 173 --- Hall 173 Wotobank 76 Wray 25 Wrynose 12, 24 Wythburn Chapel 45, 164 --- Head 45 --- Water 164 Wythop 86 Yanwath 135 Yewbarrow 72 --- Hall 140, 160 Yew Crag Quarry 88 Yewdale 11 --- Fells 9

At the foot of page 190:-

CARLISLE: PRINTED AT THE OFFICE OF CHARLES THURNHAM.