{title- Transcription of William Ford's Description of the Lakes, 1839}
{series- Lakes Guides}
{author- Norgate, Martin & MN: 1.6.2008}
{version- last edit: 1.6.2008}
{abstract- Transcription of A Description of Scenery of the Lake District,
by William Ford, published by Charles Thurnham, Carlisle, Cumberland and R
Groombridge, Paternoster Row, London, 3rd edn 1843.}
{page = intro 1}
{header- Transcription of William Ford's Description of the Lakes, 1839}
{text- This transcription, and notes, are from A Description of Scenery of
the Lake District, by William Ford, published by Charles Thurnham,
Carlisle, Cumberland and R Groombridge, Paternoster Row, London, 3rd edn
1843. The copy used is in a private collection.}
{text- source type: LakesSrc & Ford 1839 (3rd edn 1843)}
{header- Transcription}
{text- Deciding how to arrange a transcription in 'records' which are
destined to become html pages is not easy. The transcript here is made page
by page, ignoring the problem that a sentence might be split across page
breaks; excepting footnotes, which may go on from page to page, and which
are gathered together on the page on which they start. The original markers
for footnotes are star or asterisk, section sign, etc, which are replaced
in the transcript by a serial number within each page.}
{text- Somewhen, the text, at present in MODES records, will migrate to
xml. At this change the Text Encoding Initiative (TEI) should be
considered, though at first sight that methodology seems very biased
towards academic study of 'Literature' rather than everyday text. TEI would
mark up the whole of the text as one document, the particular arrangement
into pages for an edition treated as a subsidiary feature. Here the book is
regarded as a specific object being recorded and pagination is maintained.}
{text- Some features of the exact typesetting has been ignored. Italics are
recognised; hyphenation across lines has been removed, judging as well as I
am able to retain the hyphen where it likely belongs. A word split across
pages is left that way, but the beginning part of the word is added as
inferred data to its continuation on the following page.}
{text- Peculiarities of spelling and grammar are preserved, some are
perhaps just typesetter's errors; they are perhaps confirmed by '(sic)'.}
{text- Notice that there is potential for interesting problems if the
transcription is checked by machine for consistency of punctuation. It
happens that there are more open quotes than close quotes; and it is
possible that quotes remain unclosed at the end of a page of text ...}
{index terms = transcription; footnotes; Ford 1839; italic; hyphenation;
spelling; grammar; Text Encoding Initiative; TEI}
{page = intro 2}
{header- Text Indexing}
{text- Keywords for indexing the text have been recorded, as well as I am
able: using today's placenames as well as the text's versions; recognising
unnamed places if possible; using locality type terms if nothing else is
possible; indexing objects and topics only if useful. Thus, I have tried to
interpret and understand the text to make the indexing helful and
comprehensible in today's world; a basic rule is 'would you want this page
if you were searching with this keyword?' Where the text's version of a
name differs from the received name today two index entries are made:- }
{inset- text version (received version)}
{inset- received version}
{text- For example}
{inset- Leathes Water (Thirlmere)}
{inset- Thirlmere}
{text- This pattern is fairly strictly adhered to, even when the difference
in spelling is trivial.}
{index terms = keywords; indexing; placename}
{header- Marginal Comments}
{text- Marginal comments have been added by the present editor to make it
possible to give a synopisis of the whole.}
{index terms = marginal notes}
{header- Map Indexing}
{text- The book's map is indexed maps by cutting it up into 'squares',
using the national grid so that this map conforms to the indexing used for
other maps. Places are indexed using both map and received versions of the
placename.}
{header- Gazetteer Extracts}
{text- Chunks of text relevant to each place are extracted and gathered
together, and loaded into the record for the place in the Old Cumbria
Gazetteer. The gazetteer holds extracts from other text sources and maps as
well as illustration in old prints and modern photographs.}
{index terms = indexing; keywords; gazetteer; map squares; pages}
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = i}
{text- Title page:-}
{image = FD01T.jpg}
{marginal = title page / author; publisher}
A DESCRIPTION OF SCENERY IN THE LAKE DISTRICT INTENDED AS A GUIDE TO
STRANGERS.
BY THE REVEREND WILLIAM FORD, B.A. THIRD EDITION. CAREFULLY REVISED, AND
ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS AND PLATES.
'After all, it is upon the mind which a traveller brings along with him,
that his acquisitions, whether of pleasure or profit, must principally
depend.'
CARLISLE:- PUBLISHED BY CHARLES THURNAM. / LONDON: R, GROOMBRIDGE, No.5,
PATERNOSTER ROW. / SOLD ALSO BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. / 1843. / Price Four
Shillings Plain, or Five Shillings with the Maps Coloured.
{text- The book transcribed has uncoloured maps.}
{page = ii}
{text- Reverse of title page:-}
CARLISLE: PRINTED AT THE OFFICE OF CHARLES THURNAM.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = iii}
INTRODUCTION.
{marginal = introduction / location}
THE Lake district extends over a portion of the three counties of
Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancashire, being bounded on the south and
west by the sea, which combines beautifully from many elevated points with
the inland scenery, and occupying an area of about thirty miles in
diameter. It consists of large masses or clusters of mountains, generally
terminating in one aspiring and pre-eminent point, with the intermediate
valleys occupied either by lakes and their subsidiary tarns, or by winding
rivers.
{marginal = mountains}
The chief nuclei of these clusters are, Skiddaw and Blencathra,
Helvellyn, Fairfield, Coniston Old Man, Blackcomb, Scafell, Gable, Red
Pike, Grasmoor, Grisdale Pike, and the Langdale Pikes. Many noble and
commanding mountains rise around these, rivalling them in height and
grandeur, but still
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
serving as large buttresses only. In the presentation of
endlessly-diversified forms, these Mountains yield to none, however
individually inferior they may be, owing to their being seldom seen in a
detached point of view; although, on the other hand, they have thus the
advantage of forming combinations at once grand and sublime, towering above
each other, or rising in ridges, like the mighty billows of the ocean.
Their general covering is a rich green turf, affording excellent pasturage
to large flocks of sheep. The brown of the dying fern, and the purple hue
of the heather, add to the variety no less than the beauty of the tints. On
some, rocks predominate; others have their fronts torn and ploughed up by
bursts and speats of rain, exposing and laying bare the soil.
{marginal = valleys}
The Valleys which lie between these masses, are not formed like those of
Wales, by the sloping sides of the mountains meeting, so as to leave but
little room for any thing but a terrace road and rugged bed of a river; but
they wind amongst the hills with intricate and abrupt turnings, and in the
level bottoms,
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
either a lake quietly rests, or wooded howes and little knolls, on which
the cottages are perched, rise out of green meadows and smiling
corn-fields. It is a great recommendation also to these vales, that each
has its peculiar character, no one, taken as a whole, bearing much
resemblance to any other. There is, however, sometime a likeness in the
mountains, but more in their parts, considered in detail, than in their
whole composition, arising from the similarity of their geological
construction. There is, moreover, in all the engulphed vales, somewhat of a
melancholy solemnity, caused by the grandeur of the surrounding hills, and
the scarcity of inhabitants.
{marginal = lakes}
The forms of some of the Lakes have been objected to, as too much
resembling those of rivers, especially when viewed from such a height as to
embrace the whole lake at once. But this faulty appearance vanishes when
they are seen from their shores, or from some moderate elevation sufficient
to serve as a naturally appropriate foreground. Then their boundary lines,
boldly
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
indented with masses of rock, or gracefully varied by alluvial
promontories, created by the little streams which flow into them - the
steep shores crested with woods and lawns of verdant green, enamelled with
clumps of trees, and gently sloping to the water - fill the eye and satiate
the mind with the most exquisite feelings of delight.
{marginal = islands}
The Islands are neither numerous, nor on the whole do they add much to
their beauty; but the multitude of torrents and brooks, and the internal
springs, render them truly vivi lacus.
{marginal = tarns}
The Tarns form another peculiar feature of this country. Sometimes found in
the vales, but more numerous among the mountains, they answer the useful
purpose of reservoirs, arresting the torrents which would otherwise be
precipitated in destructive floods upon the valleys beneath, and affording
a constant supply of moisture against the overpowering heat of summer.
Lying as they do in the solitary recesses of lofty mountains, at the foot
of steep precipices, huge fragments of rock strewed on their shores, and
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
heath-clad promontories dividing their black sullen waters, they excite in
the mind feelings of melancholy and awful solemnity.
{marginal = woods}
The Wood consists of oak, ash, and birch, elms, hazels, black and white
thorns, hollies, alders, willows, and the black yew, which are scattered
through the district. There are also many plantations of larches. Sycamores
and Scotch firs are the usual and beautiful shelter of the cottages. The
coppice-woods and intricate hedge-rows, give an idea of what the country
once has been, though now bereft of its leafy covering. The minor shrubs
and plants cannot escape the eye of the tourist, much less of the botanist.
The bilberry in early spring, with its flowrets creeping under the shade of
a tree - the broom with its golden blossoms - and the hardy juniper - and
last, though least in size, yet inferior to none in beauty, the lichens and
mosses - all contribute to the attraction of this favoured land.
Having glanced at the natural features of the country, we will now notice
those which owe their existence to man.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = viii}
{marginal = settlements}
The Cottages stand either clustered or scattered in groups, or singly up
and down the valleys. Their forms and colours generally harmonise with
their situations. The dwelling-houses, originally white, but stained and
weather-beaten, present the grotesque appearance of such various additions
as the necessities or caprices of successive owners have suggested. They
may be seen placed on knolls, or up the hill-sides, beyond the reach of
floods, and their doors protected from wintry blasts, by porches of slate.
Above the rough slated roofs (the abode of lichens, mosses, and ferns) rise
the low chimnies, consisting sometimes of four upright little pillars, with
a slate at the top and a stone to keep it steady, sometimes of a square
base, surmounted by a tall cylinder. The garden is near, with its flowers
and pot-herbs and shed for bees; and not far off is the mountain rill,
falling into a rude trough of slate, or trickling through a wooden spout.
{marginal = bridges}
The numerous Bridges, once models of simple elegance in the structure of
the arches, have many of them been swept away by the
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
hand of improvement. In sequestered districts, they still form interesting
features in the scenery.
{marginal = weather; clouds; rain}
With regard to the Climate, this country being mountainous, and mountains
being the natural resting-place of clouds, rain is frequent; it comes down,
however, not in cold drizzling showers, but heartily, and is almost always
succeeded by bright clear weather; then the streams,
'As at first creation, and in haste
To exercise their untried faculties,
Descending from the region of the clouds,
And starting from the hollows of the earth,
More multitudinous every moment, rend
Their way before them.'
Days of unsettled weather, with partial showers, are frequent, which, as
they fly along from hill to hill, alternately brighten or darken them,
revealing the deep coves of the mountains, and again wrapping them in
sombre gloom.
'- The clouds,
The mist, the shadows, light of golden suns,
Motions of moonlight, all come thither, touch,
And have an answer - thither come, and shape
A language not unwelcome to sick hearts
And idle spirits.'
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = x}
{marginal = antiquities}
Of antiquities, British or Roman, and historical associations, this country
is rather barren. The mountains themselves, and the fastnesses which they
afforded, were a sufficient barrier; and there was little in the frowning
masses, or in the deep, intricate, and unexplored glens, which wound
amongst them, to tempt invaders from the fertile vales and rich alluvial
plains which lie around them and along the coast. A few Druidical circles
are found here and there, and rare though distinct traces of Roman forts
and camps are observable. The Norman conquerors, however, seem to have left
this tract wholly to itself: all the remains of the castles being found on
the outskirts, as Egremont, Cockermouth, Brougham, and Kendal. Even the
religious enthusiasm of monachism scarcely advanced within the shadow of
the mountains, much less penetrated into their secluded dales. Furness,
Calder, St. Bees, and Holme Cultram abbeys, are all in the open country.
For a long period, indeed, the population must either have been extremely
small, or their religious interests neglect-
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
[neglect]ed; perhaps both might be the case. As proof of this, we need only
point to the large and extensive parishes of Kendal, Greystoke,
Crosthwaite, Brigham, and Saint Bees, and the numerous dependent chapelries
which have been erected within them since the time of the Reformation.
These chapels present no architectural features worthy of notice, and the
mother churches are for the most part extremely plain, partaking of the
progressive alteration of style from Norman to early English.
{marginal = time to visit}
With respect to the time of visiting the Lakes, it is difficult to speak,
so as to unite the convenience and taste of tourists with the most
advantageous season; however, we may say, that either early spring or
autumn affords, on the whole, the greatest diversity in the colouring of
the scenery. In summer, there is too general a green, and if the weather
should not prove rainy, the misty and hazy state of the atmosphere prevents
distant views. Perhaps the best time is, between the end of May and the
middle of June; the days are long, the weather fine, many of the trees
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
are in full leaf, the deciduous trees are breaking out, and the spring
flowers still linger; then there is the early song of the birds, with the
fascinating call of the cuckoo; and down in the intacks, the lambs
are joyously skipping about and bleating, in all the enjoyment of a new
existence.
As far as possible, the Lakes should be approached from their outlets; and
their eastern sides should be traversed in the morning, in order to catch
the sunbeams lighting up the opposite pinnacles, and creeping down their
sides into the vales, thus gradually unfolding the scene, as it were, and
throwing over the whole one mantle of rosy light. He, too, who is in search
of the picturesque, will leave the beaten track, and travel along the rough
side screens, and catch the beauties of the lake as they arise in smaller
portions - its little bays and winding shores - its deep recesses and
hanging promontories - its garnished rock and distant mountains.
{marginal = accommodation}
To close these introductory remarks, it may be necessary to observe, that
the principal towns and stations contain all that is
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
requisite for the agreeable residence of individuals and families; by whom
it should be remembered, that a transient visit would scarcely afford time
to enjoy fully the effect of the scenery, and that many of the more
remarkable spots deserve a repeated inspection. The man of science, also,
and the artist, will find that by remaining a few days at each station
successively, they will travel with more advantage and with greater
pleasure to themselves, than by scouring over the country in hasty
perambulation. The best order in which the tour of the country may be made,
will perhaps be found to coincide with the arrangement adopted in this
work, though it will in general be influenced by many adventitious
circumstances.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 1}
{marginal = The Lakes}
A DESCRIPTION OF THE LAKES IN THE NORTH OF ENGLAND.
'O Nature, how in every charm supreme!
Whose votaries feast on raptures ever new!
O for the voice and fire of seraphim,
To sing thy glories with devotion due!'
{marginal = tours}
THE order in which the Lakes should be visited, if seen in any prescribed
order at all, can be pointed out much more easily than satisfactorily.
Lancaster and Kendal in the south, Carlisle and Penrith in the north,
formerly offered the readiest facilities of access to this Northern
Elysium; but since the improvement of steam navigation, Whitehaven and
other ports have become equally suitable as starting places. One advantage,
however, remains in favour of the old routes, that the direct lines are
better, especially for carriages, although to the pedestrian this will not
be a matter of any great importance.
{marginal = Tour from Lancaster}
Since the greatest influx of tourists is from the south of England, and the
Lancashire Lakes are best approached from that quarter, it may not be
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 2}
{continues last paragraph}
improper to commence our description, by entering into the district from
Lancaster.
{marginal = Lancaster}
LANCASTER
Will, without doubt, excite the curiosity and admiration of the tourist.
The massive towers of the castle proudly overlooking the town - the church
- the sessions-hall - and noble bridge crossing the Lune - will by turns
engage the attention; and the beautiful prospects which embrace the town,
the river, and the sea, will give him a rich foretaste of the enjoyment
awaiting him amid the blue highlands which close in the distance.
{marginal = Lancaster to Ulverston}
From Lancaster to Coniston, the more circuitous but safer road, is by
Milnthorpe to Ulverstone, thence to Dalton and Furness Abbey. Bold and
adventurous spirits may cross
{marginal = Lancaster Sands}
THE SANDS
{marginal = sands guide}
From Lancaster. Over these extensive and dangerous wastes, covered by every
succeeding tide, travellers are conducted by guides appointed by
government. The first guide, who is on foot, conducts parties over the
Keer; the next guide, who is on horseback, and is familiarly styled 'the
Carter,' leads them over the Kent. The Priory of Cartmel was formerly
charged with the maintenance of this guide, and had Peter's-pence and
synodals allowed towards their reimbursement. It
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
is now held by the Duchy of Lancaster, by patent, and the Carter receives
twenty pounds per annum, besides what trifling remuneration people choose
to give towards the encouragement of welcome civility. The views in
crossing are very extensive: the principal and most interesting feature is
the Sands themselves, bounded by the low promontories and sloping shores
that are enlivened by villages, backed in the distance by the Cumberland
and Westmorland mountains. Mr. Stephenson proposes in his line of Railway,
intended to connect Preston with Carlisle and Glasgow, to carry an
embankment across these Sands, by which project an immense quantity of land
would also be acquired.
{marginal = Cartmel}
CARTMEL
{marginal = Holy Well}
Is a small market-town, situated on the peninsula formed by the Kent and
Leven rivers. The most interesting object, as is usually the case in all
our small towns and villages, is the church, dedicated to St. Mary, an
ancient and handsome structure, formerly a priory, and containing several
fine monuments. The town is chiefly supported by its mineral spring, called
Holy Well, three miles south of the town, celebrated as a remedy for stone,
gout, and cutaneous complaints. The water flows from a projecting rock of
limestone, called Humphrey Head, and its healing qualities cause a
considerable influx of visitors from the neighbouring places.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
In the neighbourhood is Holker Hall, the seat of Lord G. Cavendish, in
which there is a fine collection of paintings.
{marginal = Leven Sands}
Between this place and Ulverstone, the Leven Sands must be crossed, which
are very dangerous in consequence of their constant shifting, and are three
miles in breadth.
{marginal = Ulverston}
ULVERSTONE.
(Vulgarly Ooston,) though ancient as regards its foundation, is modern in
its appearance. Neat and cheerful looking, from the houses being roughcast
and whitewashed, it stands on uneven ground, at the foot of green and
sloping eminences, and is the mart for the agricultural and mineral
productions of Furness. The market-place is ornamented with a modern cross
of cast-iron, erected in 1821; and there are four spacious streets, from
which several small ones branch off. Being about a mile from the Leven, a
canal, cut in 1795, enables vessels of small tonnage to come up to the
town. Considerable quantities of iron-ore and wrought-iron are exported to
different places. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, stands at a little
distance from the town, under a hill; it was enlarged and nearly rebuilt in
1804, and consists of a nave , chancel, and aisles, adorned with several
monuments of the Dodding and Braddyll families. The east window represents,
in painted glass, the four Evangelists, and Christ risen from the
sepulchre, after-
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
Rubens; the altar-piece is the 'Taking down from the Cross' after Sir
Joshua Reynolds: the lay rector, T. R. G. Braddyll, Esq. of Conishead
Priory, generously defrayed the expense of both these pictorial
embellishments. Instruction and amusement are supplied to the inhabitants
by libraries, a theatre, and an assembly-room; and the economical habits of
the poor are encouraged and upheld by a savings' bank.
{marginal = Swarthmoor Hall}
A short distance out of the town is Swarth Moor Hall, embosomed in shady
sycamores, once the seat of that Judge Fell, whose widow married George
Fox. The Friends have a Meeting-house near it, with this inscription over
the door, 'Ex dono, G. F. 1688.'
{marginal = Conishead Priory}
On the site of the ancient priory, Mr. Braddyll has raised a magnificent
edifice, in a style of English architecture, tastefully agreeable to its
locality and name. The gardens are extensive and beautiful, and the walks
through the park are finely shaded with trees, and command beautiful views
of the bay and the mountains.
From Ulverstone, the tourist should proceed to Dalton and Furness Abbey.
{marginal = Dalton-in-Furness}
DALTON
Is situated in a valley which stretches about four miles from it, in one
large, sweeping and narrow curve, till it opens on a noble view of Cartmel
bay. It is an ancient little town, and was once the capital
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 6}
{continues last paragraph}
of Furness - flourishing, from its neighbourhood to the rich and mitred
Abbey of Saint Mary. The square tower of its castle overlooks the town,
giving an air of dignity to the single street which forms its spacious
market-place. The church, dedicated to our Lady, has since 1835 been nearly
rebuilt. Dalton would, however, attract but few visitors, were it not from
the same cause that formerly gave it opulence. The ruins of the once
magnificent abbey still draw the pilgrim of taste - the lover of
contemplation - and the artist is search of broken pillars and ivied walls.
{marginal = Furness Abbey}
FURNESS ABBEY
Was first planted at Tulket, in Amouridness, in the year 1124; three years
after which, on the 1st of July, 1127, it was translated and founded by
Stephen, Earl of Bologne and Morton, (afterwards king of England,) in the
vale of Beckansgill, or the Glen of Deadly Night shade. He brought monks
from Savigny in Normandy, endowing them with the lordship of Furness and
other extensive privileges. They, however, having fallen from their first
estate of Benedictine simplicity and purity of manners, submitted after
some hesitation to a reform in their discipline, and by taking the rules of
St. Bernard became Cistercians, the rules of which order they observed
until the general dissolution. It then shared the fate of its compeers,
when its revenues were valued at
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
£905 16s. according to Dugdale, or £966 7s. according to Speed.
Its ruins consist of the conventual church, the chapter-house, and
school-house, which occupy a space of about sixty-five acres, secluded in a
deep glen, which nevertheless opens out below into an expanse of fertile
meadows, irrigated by a murmuring brook, and screened by a forests of
stately timber. The style of its architecture is a mixture of Norman and
early English. The nave is supported by fine massy clustered piers, from
which spring circular arches of massy deep mouldings. The transept is
distinguished by long elegant lancets, and the chancel has been a specimen
of more decorated workmanship, having four beautiful sedilia on its
southern side. The tower, low and square, has been supported by four
magnificent arches, of which only one remains entire; they appear to have
rested upon finely clustered piers. The chapter-house, a noble room of
sixty feet by forty-five, had a vaulted roof formed of twelve ribbed
arches, springing from six pillars in two rows, fourteen feet distant from
each other. The roof has now fallen in.
The inside length of the church, from east to west, is two hundred and
seventy-five feet; the length of the transept, from north to south, is one
hundred and thirty feet; the width of the nave is sixty-five feet; whilst
that of the choir is only twenty-eight feet.
The finest view of these interesting ruins is from
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
the hill opposite to the east window, through which are seen, in lengthened
perspective closed by woods, the choir and nave.
{marginal = Ulverston to Coniston}
From Ulverstone, whither the tourist must return, there are to Coniston two
roads, uniting at Lowick bridge. The road by Lowick village is along a
narrow vale, with hanging enclosures and scattered farm-houses, from which
there is a distant view of Coniston Water winding round the mountain foot
in a north-eastern direction; a low sweep of dark rocks is seen over its
surface, and the whole range of the fells above. The road by Pennybridge
presents no distant prospects, but the village and bridge, the thick woods,
and the Man-mountain, ten miles off, form an agreeable combination. The
river connecting Coniston Water with the sea is the Crake, which joins the
Leven a little to the south of Pennybridge.
{marginal = Coniston Water}
CONISTON WATER
Is six miles in length, and about three quarters of a mile in breadth. The
depth does not exceed thirty fathoms, and the waters abound with char and
trout, the former being larger and finer than those found in any other
lake. Its direction is from north to south, the head or northern part being
engulphed in lofty mountains, whilst the extremity reaches into the vale
below. The southern shores are beautifully indented by rocky promontories,
stretching into the waters, which are mar-
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
[mar]gined by meadows, intersected by hedge-rows. The views from the
eastern side are the most interesting, excelling those from the opposite,
by having as back-grounds the sublime mountains of Coniston.
{marginal = Oxen Houses; Waterhead}
An excellent carriage-road surrounds the water, often on its margin,
scarcely ever a mile from it. Passing along the western side, from its foot
to Oxen Houses, the mountains compose agreeably with the water, from a
variety of stands. Several rocky eminences present themselves on the left,
from which both ends of the lake are visible; at the head, the Coniston,
Yewdale, and Tilberthwaite fells, rise up out of the water; the lofty
mountains about Rydal and Grasmere are seen above them; and Fairfield and
Helvellyn finish the prospect. In advancing, the mountains are occasionally
shut out by pastures and meadows, their pretty white farm-houses and
cottages glistening amid ashes, oaks, and sycamores. Coniston Hall, the
ancient seat of the Flemings of Rydal, is on the right hand on the edge of
the lake, and although very much spoiled by alterations, is a pleasing
object with the trees, the water, and the fells of Yewdale. The road passes
the slate depôumflex;t, through low but pleasant pasture and meadow
grounds, to the inn at Waterhead.
The best time for traversing the eastern side is the morning. The Coniston
fells from above Nibthwaite, are in full glory. Looking diagonally across
the water in a north-west direction, the
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water here is embayed, Peel island stretches boldly to the western shore,
beyond which, are green fields, scattered woods and rocks, fishermen's
cottages and farm-steads, and the awful Man-mountain rising over them, and
shutting in the scene. On this side, the middle portion of the road is the
least interesting. Towards the head, Coniston Hall, with its aged sycamores
and groves of trees, form a charming picture, amid the hedge-rows and
dependent farm-steads. From Tent Lodge, once the residence of Miss
Elizabeth Smith, (that excellent Hebrew scholar and poetess,) there is a
beautiful view of the lake, with its church and village of Coniston on its
opposite side, backed by an intermixture of the Coniston, Yewdale, and
Tilberthwaite mountains.
{marginal = Coniston}
Should the tourist adopt the plan recommended in the introduction, of
occasionally prolonging his stay at places whose neighbourhood present
objects worthy of such delay, Coniston Hall will at once detain him, since
the following excursions cannot but give great satisfaction:-
{marginal = Old Man of Coniston}
ASCENT OF THE OLD MAN.
This almost peerless mountain rises majestically on the west side of the
lake, having, at its base, the sweet village of Coniston, its groves and
green fields. On one side the ascent is gradual from the base to the
summit; on the other, a secondary mountain rises steep and rugged, its
point heaped
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into ridges and worn into furrows, forming a scene of wildness and
grandeur. Between this and the Man-mountain, is a deep valley, from which
the Old Man rises abruptly, and in some places perpendicularly. One half is
covered with rocks and stones, the other with vegetation. The ascent is
pleasant, safe, and comfortable. On the summit are three beacons of stone -
the Old Man, his Wife, and Son. From it, there is a complete view of the
fine bays and estuaries of the Lancashire, and part of the Cumberland
coasts - the isles of Walney and Man - and in a very favourable state of
the atmosphere, the Snowdonian range in Wales. The road may be traced from
the top to Low Water, a tarn lying just beneath. Proceeding in a northerly
direction under the summit of the Old Man, Levens Water is discovered, a
tarn about a mile in circumference, open only towards the south, being
enclosed in every other direction, and making a beautiful picture with part
of Coniston Water, the hills about Nibthwaite, and beyond, a strip of sea
reaching westward from the river Leven. The descent to Coniston, by the
side of the stream flowing out of the tarn, is easy and picturesque.
{marginal = Yewdale}
YEWDALE.
From the inn at Coniston, a leisurely traveller might have much pleasure in
looking into Yewdale, with its venerable tree, which is tall and beautiful,
though not umbrageous, like those of Patterdale
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{marginal = Tilberthwaite}
and Lorton - and Tilberthwaite, with its hundred woody knolls - returning
to the inn from the head of Yewdale, by a mountain tract, having the
farm-house of Tarn Hows on the right. On this road, Coniston Water is
resplendently exhibited in its whole length, with all its pretty bays and
mazy windings.
{marginal = Seathwaite}
SEATHWAITE
{marginal = Walna Scar; Seathwaite Tarn}
Is a vale deeply environed amongst mountains of great sublimity; it has no
lake, but the copious stream of the 'silver-bright Duddon,' whose feeders
flow precipitously from the Shire stones, winds amongst fields, rocks, and
hills. The finest part of this valley, is from the chapel to Goldrill Crag.
Untutored nature seems to hold absolute sway; the cottages are prettily
situated, some being picturesquely adorned with trees. Its highest part,
called Mosedale, is tame and unmeaning. This secluded valley may be
approached, either by Broughton, or over Walna Scar, or it may be entered
at its head over Wrynose and Cockley Beck. The Walna Scar road leaves
Church Coniston, and proceeds by an easy path under the foot of
Man-mountain, whence there is a steep craggy ascent to Goats Water, whose
length is half a mile, and margin stony. The road to Seathwaite Tarn is
over a pass, little inferior in height to the Man. This tarn contains on
its northern side a rocky island, and Fairfield may be seen over its
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surface, between side screens formed of rocky precipices. By following the
stream which issues out of this water, the descent into the valley cannot
be mistaken, to Nettleslack Bridge, whence to the inn at Newfield, by the
chapel, is only a short distance. The wonderful Walker officiated as
clergyman for a long period in this vale. A mountain track from Goldrill
Crag leads to
{marginal = Eskdale}
ESKDALE,
{marginal = Birker Force; Barnscar}
(Vulgarly Eshdale,) and the first object of interest is Birker Force,
perhaps the finest cascade in Cumberland; the rocky cheeks which contain
the water are of the grandest dimensions. On the same side of the hill, but
lower down in the valley, is Stanley Gill, which may be seen by application
at Dalegarth Hall, the ancient mansion or house of the Austhwaite family,
which became extinct in the time of Edward III, but now belonging to E.
Stanley, of Ponsonby Hall, Esq., M.P. The stream of this vale passes under
the woody steeps, on which stands Muncaster Castle, the handsome residence
of the Penningtons, seated on the northern banks, amidst beautiful walks
and gardens, with a spacious walk, whilst the neighbouring hills enrich the
view with their covering of forest trees. On Birkby Fell, the antiquarian
may find employment for his conjectural genius in researches among the
ruins of the city of Barnscar, the site of which is an oblong of three
hundred yards by
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one hundred yards. Silver coins have been found in the ruins.
{marginal = Ravenglass}
Ravenglass, is a small market-town, at the confluence and embouchure of the
Mite and Irt, contains nothing to detain the traveller, who may pursue his
route to Westwater, or to
{marginal = Bootle}
BOOTLE.
The scenery round this place is so varied and interesting, as to make it
matter of surprise that it is not oftener visited, especially by those who
have leisure. The church is a small structure dedicated to Saint Michael,
having within a monumental brass plate, representing the effigy of Sir Hugh
Askew, 'late of the seller of Edward VI,' who was knighted at the battle of
Musselburgh, in 1547, and died in 1562. The font is remarkable, and is of
black marble, of an octagonal shape, having shields, and an inscription in
black letter characters.
{marginal = Seaton Hall}
SETON NUN.
Whilst at Bootle, the antiquarian may visit the ruins of a priory of
Benedictine nuns, called the Nunnery of Lakelay, near Seaton Hall, which
was formerly the seat of Sir Henry Askew, to whom the priory was granted in
1542, being then valued at £12 12s. per annum. There are some remains
of the conventical church, with lancet-shaped windows.
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{marginal = Black Combe}
BLACKCOMBE,
Rightly so called from the gloomy heather on its surface, may be most
eligibly ascended from this town, a very gentle ascent leading to its
summit. The base being at the extremity of the mountain chain, on the
sea-shore between Ravenglass and the estuary of the Duddon, the prospect is
one of great variety. The sublime ocean forms one-half of the
circumference, with Peel Castle and the Isle of Walney on the south; in the
west, the Isle of Man is a conspicuous object; the fine indented coast, the
bulwark of Cumberland, trends away to the north; the towns of Egremont and
Ravenglass, Bootle and Broughton, give animation to the scene; the beauties
of Duddon repose at the feet; and far in the east, a mighty assemblage of
mountains rear their gigantic heads.
It will produce an agreeable variety to make the return to Broughton, and
by Torver, back to Coniston Water-head.
{marginal = Coniston to Hawkshead}
With feelings of mingled delight and regret, the tourist may now leave
Coniston and proceed to Hawkshead, over a road wild and dreary, among
heath-clad rocks, and past some picturesque cottages, beyond which is seen
the town, its white houses, church, and lake, and Furness Fells, making a
beautiful pastoral picture.
{marginal = Hawkshead}
HAWKSHEAD
Stands in a warm sheltered valley, and the small
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round-topped verdant elevations, give a softness and beauty to this part of
the lake scenery that can scarcely be excelled. The town is of great
antiquity, and several of the houses are old, singular, artist-like
subjects. The Old Hall of the abbots of Furness is now a farm-house. The
market-place is pretty spacious, and has a neat town-house erected a few
years ago. The church, dedicated to Saint Michael, appears to be of an
early age, and stands upon an eminence commanding a prospect of the lake
and valley. The Grammar-school, founded by Archbishop Sandys, has produced
many eminent scholars.
{marginal = Esthwaite Water}
ESTHWAITE WATER
Is about two miles in length, and half a mile across. It is encompassed by
an excellent carriage road, and from its unequal figure and enclosures -
its two peninsulas fringed with trees, shooting into the lake - form
exceeding good scenery. Perch, pike, eels, and trout, are the fish taken in
its waters. A small floating island also occasionally appears to astonish
the beholder.
In passing round the lake, there are three remote but distinct distances,
which add grandeur to the placid lake, and its surrounding open valley and
gently swelling eminences - the Langdale Pikes, the Fells of Grasmere,
Rydal, Ambleside, and Gunner's How.
Some think the most advantageous point of view in which this water appears,
is to the traveller
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descending from the ferry over Windermere - in this, the lake, Hawkshead
church, and Langdale Pikes, are prominent: others, again, that in which
part of Esthwaite Hall is seen, lands with wood on each side of the lake,
villages and groves of trees, and the lofty mountains of Grasmere, Rydal,
&c. in the distance. The view which greets the eyes in descending the
hill from Coniston, yields to neither in sweetness.
{marginal = to Ambleside}
From Esthwaite the tourist may either go directly towards Ambleside, or
through the village of Claife to the Ferry-inn on Windermere, and thence by
Bowness to Ambleside.
{marginal = Lancaster to Kendal}
It is a pleasant, although not direct road to Kendal by Kirkby Lonsdale,
through the vale of Lune. The more usual route, however, is by Milnthorpe
and Levens.
{marginal = Milnthorpe}
MILNTHORPE
Is a small but well-built market-town, on the north side of the river Belo,
near the estuary of the Kent. The place consists principally of one long
street, at the east end of which are some elegant houses in open
situations. Many improvements have been effected in it, the most
conspicuous being an elegant chapel in the English style, consecrated by
the present Bishop of Chester. It is in the parish of Heversham, a neat and
pleasant village, about a mile further on. The church was built in 1601, on
the site of the old one, destroyed by fire, and
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consists of a nave and aisles, and a square tower containing three bells.
It was re-pewed in 1775, and its interior is now remarkably neat. There are
several monuments to the Bellingham, Preston, and other families. At the
grammar-school here, Bishop Watson was educated by his father, who was head
master.
{marginal = Levens Hall}
LEVENS HALL,
{marginal = Levens gardens}
The beautiful seat of the Honourable Fulke Greville Howard, stands 'amidst
its tall ancestral trees,' on the east side of the river Kent. The hall is
a venerable mansion, deeply embosomed in wood. The interior possesses an
endless variety of excellent carved work, the oak wainscoatings being
enriched with figures, emblematical devices, and ornaments, which are
profusely lavished on every part. The gardens were laid out in the old
Dutch style, by Mr. Beaumont, gardener to James II, and they are still kept
up in the same imposing style of heavy magnificence. The river enters the
grounds by a cascade of foaming whiteness, and pursues its way amid lawns,
sweetly diversified with trees, whilst herds of deer
'-- across their green-sward bound,
Through shade and sunny gleam;
And the swan glides past them, with the sound
Of Kent's rejoicing stream.'
As an object for the attention of the antiquary, or the lovers of the
picturesque, this hall is unrivalled in this part of the country. Levens
chapel, a new
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building of English architecture, stands on Beathwaite Green, its tower and
spire rendering it a conspicuous object. About two miles further on, near
the high road is
{marginal = Sizergh Castle}
SIZERGH HALL,
The ancient castellated seat of the Stricklands, in the midst of fertile
grounds sprinkled with wood, which finely contrasts with the wildness and
sterility of the hill above. Built in the days of feudal discord and border
rapine, its strong towers give it a formidable appearance; the interior,
however, is elegantly furnished, and the dining-room is ceiled and
wainscoated with richly carved oak. The Queen's room is so called from
Catherine Parr having once lodged in it.
Hence the tourist will speedily reach
{marginal = Kendal}
KENDAL,
The largest town in Westmorland, seated on the west side of the river Kent,
beneath a lofty scar, opposite to the ruins of the ancient castle. It is
intersected by four principal streets, one of which runs north and south,
forming a busy thoroughfare of one mile in length, and leading to the
Lakes. The houses are built of limestone, capable of receiving a high
polish, and covered with slate. The town, although very ancient, has now a
modern appearance, nearly all the old houses having been
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rebuilt, and many new streets erected during late years. The whiteness of
the houses is greatly enlivened by the number of poplars which grow about
them, the long range of hanging gardens on the west, and the sloping meads
and plantations on the east, where the Kent washes the skirts of the town,
and is crossed by three good bridges. The completion of the canal to
Lancaster, in 1819, gave a powerful impulse to the building spirit of the
inhabitants, which still continues to extend the limits of the town, and to
improve its general appearance and accommodations.
{marginal = Kendal Castle; Catharine Parr; White Hall}
The chief objects of interest are the castle, of which four broken towers
and part of the outer wall still remain. In 1813, the foundations were
strengthened and skirted with a thriving plantation, enriching the view
from the town. This fortress, the seat of the Barons of Kendal, and
birth-place of Catherine Parr, stands on the east side of the Kent, upon a
hill composed of rounded stones, embedded in a black sandy cement. It is
well worth visiting, both from the beauty of its commanding situation, and
from the interest always excited by the venerable relics of former days.
Opposite the castle, on the west side of the town, is Castlehow-hill: on
this eminence the inhabitants, in 1788, erected an obelisk to commemorate
the glorious revolution of 1688. The White Hall, a large public edifice,
with handsome stone fronts, looking into Lowther-street and High-gate, was
built in 1825, from a design by the late Mr. Webster, architect,
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{marginal = Holy Trinity, Kendal}
at the cost of £6000. It is one hundred and forty-eight feet long,
and thirty-seven broad, having the principal entrance ornamented by a
receding balcony, fronted with columns and pilasters of the Ionic order,
supporting a pediment. A handsome circular lantern gives light to the
billiard-room, besides which, are a library, news-room, and elegant
ball-room. The church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, stands in the
township of Kirkland; it is one hundred and eighty feet long, and
ninety-nine feet broad, consisting of five aisles, divided by arches, which
spring from eight pillars. The tower, seventy-two feet in height, is very
strong, and contains a peel of ten bells. In the church are four chapels,
three of which belonged to the Parrs, Stricklands, and Bellinghams; the
other is the proper choir of the church, though called the Alderman's
choir, because they were wont to sit there. The Stricklands of Sizergh Hall
still use their chapel as a burial-place, and several of the family lie
entombed there under a rich marble monument. This church was given by Ivo
de Talebois to St. Mary's Abbey, York, and granted, after the dissolution,
by Queen Mary, to Trinity College, Cambridge, to which the patronage, great
tithes, tithes of wool and lamb, still belong. Saint George's chapel fronts
the Market-place and Strickland-gate. Another chapel, in the lancet style,
has been erected and consecrated also by the present bishop of the diocese.
Kendal was governed by a corporation formerly
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consisting of a mayor, recorder, alderman, and capital burgesses. By the
recent Municipal act, it is divided into three wards, under the
superintendence of a mayor, six aldermen, and eighteen councilmen. By the
Reform bill, the town returns one member to Parliament. It was formerly
noted for coarse woollen goods, called Kendal cottons, but goods of finer
description are now more commonly manufactured. The river Kent affords
plenty of water for its numerous mills and dye-houses. There are also very
extensive marble works. As the country people for many miles around attend
the markets and fairs, the town thus combines the character of a
manufacturing place, with that of the centre of a rich agricultural
district.
Kendal can also boast of being furnished with schools and charitable
institutions, as numerously and liberally endowed as any town of equal
population. Indeed, in this respect, the county of Westmorland exceeds all
others, owing chiefly to the number of clever and eminent men who have
distinguished themselves, and have sought to return back to their native
county some portion of those benefits which they themselves derived from
it.
{marginal = Kendal to Windermere}
The road leaves Kendal by a steep ascent, having the workhouse and prison
on either hand. The views northward, in the direction of Shap and Orton,
are pretty, not unlike the vale of Derbyshire: southward, there is an
opening through the marble jaws of Underbarrow, showing the varied
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{marginal = Staveley; Ings}
but pleasing localities of the country. Five miles from Kendal is Stavely,
situated in a deep and picturesque part of the vale of Kent. Drunken
Barnaby resided here in his latter days. The chapel has a handsome tower
and three bells. From Stavely, the hills rise steeply to the north and
east. The next village that presents itself, is Ings; the chapel, which is
a neat edifice, was rebuilt in 1743, by Robert Bateman, a poor lad, who
being furnished with a small subscription by the congregation to assist him
on his pedestrian journey to London, rose from the lowest menial office in
the house of a wealthy merchant, to be his master's partner. The Lake of
Windermere shortly afterwards bursts upon the eye like a fairy vision - the
islands - the mazy windings of the shores, clad with thick wood or skirted
with verdant plains. The town of Bowness with its white houses, and the
rocky mountains of Rydal at a considerable distance, rivet the gaze of the
silently admiring tourist. A little further is Elleray, the seat of
Professor Wilson, on a most desirable and commanding situation; hence,
Calgarth appears over trees of rich and massy foliage, beyond which is the
lake, and at its head Brathay and Clappersgate, with the Coniston, Eskdale,
Wastdale, Langdale, Borrodale, Wythburn, Rydal, and Troutbeck mountains.
Down the lake, the eye rests upon the Monarch Isle, lying amid its
dependents - the Ferry House and Station on the west - Bowness on the east,
shut out by Heathwaite and Drummer's Stile - whilst the summer-house of
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Storrs on its lengthened promontory, with Rawlinson's Nab - are conspicuous
and beautiful objects. Both ends of the lake are visible at once. Rayrigg,
standing in the recess of a quiet bay, on a delicate elevation above the
lake, presents views over its whole length of extraordinary beauty.
{marginal = Windermere}
WINDERMERE
Is the largest lake, being ten miles and a half long by water, and thirteen
by land; its breadth varies, though the extreme does not extend two miles;
the same may be said of its depth, which is from five to thirty-seven
fathoms. Its circumference is about twenty-six miles, and its waters cover
an area of from four to five thousand acres. The chief feeders are the
streams of the Rothay and Brathay, which unite at the landing-place. The
former, descending from the Raise Gap and from Easedale Tarn, passes
through Grasmere and Rydal; the bicipitous sources of the latter, rising in
Langdale Head and Wry Nose, mingle their streams in Elter Water, and after
dashing over Skelwith Force, flow gently to the lake. A stream from
Troutbeck enters the lake at Calgarth Park. The waters of this Mere
preserve nearly the same level, there being scarcely any perceptible
difference either in wet or dry weather; they discharge themselves by the
river Leven, and enter the sea in the Bay of Morecambe. Trout, pike, perch,
eels, and char, abound in them; and wild fowl of
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 24a}
{text- plate:-}
{image = FD03.jpg}
{inscription- WINDERMERE}
{caption- Map and print, uncoloured engraving, Windermere, engraved by W H
Lizars, published by Charles Thurnham, Carlisle, and by R Groombridge, 5
Paternoster Row, London, 1843.}
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{page = 25}
{continues last paragraph}
various kinds, as swans, geese, ducks, teal, and widgeons, resort to its
islands and secluded bays. The islands are clustered together in the middle
and narrowest part of the lake.
This lake should be seen both from the shores and surface. It unfolds so
many beauties to the sailor, owing to the size, its islands, and its having
two vales at the head, with the surrounding mountains of equal dignity,
that they can only be seen at once from the bosom of the water. The islands
may be explored at any time; but Mr. Wordsworth says, that one bright
unruffled evening should be set apart for the splendour, stillness, and
solemnity of the upper reach, and a peep into the river, which seems like a
gentle overflow of the lake. The best land views are on the east side,
three miles south of the head; but very rich views may be obtained from the
following points:- First, the Langdale Pikes are seen between Waterhead and
Bowness: Second, the islands looking down the lake, beginning north of
Skelgill, and ending near Rayrigg: Third, the head of the lake, with the
greater and lesser islands in the middle, and the Rydal mountains in the
extreme distance, is seen from a hill between Bowness and Bellman Ground:
Fourth, the view from the Station over the great island, having Rayrigg and
Calgarth on the banks, with Applethwaite and Kentmere mountains in the
distance: Fifth, the Rydal and Ambleside mountains, from between
Bellegrange and High Wray: Sixth, the sunset view from Grathwaite, having
Rawlinson's Nab
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and Storrs on the left and right, and the Troutbeck mountains in the
background.
The road which encircles the lake, presents very noble views, but the
neighbouring high grounds afford more extensive and splendid ones. Its
grand characteristics are diffuseness, stately beauty, and magnificence.
{marginal = islands, Windermere}
Of the numerous islands that crowd the narrow part of the Mere, we shall
only mention two: Lingholm, which is two miles from the Ferry House, a
small rocky island covered with wood, and presenting some fine views; and
Curwen's Island, or Belle Isle, a very sequestered spot, belonging to H. C.
Curwen, Esq. of Workington Hall. It contains about thirty-six acres, is
nearly two miles in circumference, and there is a gravel walk round its
margin, on which strangers are allowed to walk. Its figure is oblong, the
shores irregular, with tiny creeks and retiring bays, in which the weeping
willow droops its elegant branches. Great variety of forest trees and other
wood adorn the island - the massy Scotch fir, the noble chestnut, and the
embowering plane, with ancient thorns aud (sic) yews. The house is of a
circular form, and was built by Mr. English, a former proprietor of the
island. The views most worthy of notice are - First, Rayrigg, with the Lady
and Hen Holm Island - the wooded enclosures up to Elleray, Applethwaite,
and Kentmere - Hill Bell and High Street closing in the background: Second,
the Ferry House and Station, with
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the hilly ground above Grathwaite: Third, northward up the lake to the
Rydal mountains. Here Dove Nest is a pretty object, and the Pike of
Wansfell is seen rising over Calgarth, which is on the banks of the water.
Windermere being so extensive, cannot be thoroughly examined from any one
point; the Ferry Inn and Bowness, Low Wood Inn and Ambleside, are the most
favourable resting-places, from whence its varied scenes of beauty,
grandeur, and sublimity, may be contemplated. Newby Bridge, also, is a
delightful situation at the foot, seated under a wooded hill of
considerable elevation. The Leven is a noble stream, and higher up above
the bridge, gradually widens in sportive curves and charming little bays.
At Fellfoot, encompassed by majestic woods, the Coniston mountains peer
above the lake. Hence the road skirts Gunner's How past Trover Wood, a
little beyond which, Curwen's Island appears as united to both sides, and
thus cutting the lake into two parts; beyond is Calgarth, and the distant
mountains of Fairfield, Scandale, Coldale, and Hill Bell. Nearer the
spectator, stands Storrs Hall, on a far stretching promontory; and on the
opposite side the pretty projecting woodlands of the Ferry-Point and
Berkshire Islands. The scenery from Bellman Ground exceeds that from any
other place south of the island. Storrs Hall, the Rectory, the Ferry House,
the Little Islands, Bowness and the elegant winding shores up to Ambleside,
and the Rydal
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mountains shutting in the scene, engage the attention, and excite the
admiration and mute astonishment of the traveller.
{marginal = Bowness-on-Windermere}
BOWNESS - (Bullness)
Is a small market-town, charmingly placed on the east shore of Windermere.
It is the chief port on the lake, possessing boats employed both in fishing
and in the exportation of roofing slate. From its admirable position, it is
much frequented by tourists, who find excellent accommodation, as well as
in lodgings as in two inns, the White Lion and the Crown. Pleasure-boats
and carriages for excursions, are also to be obtained at moderate prices.
The church, dedicated to St. Martin, is a large white edifice, with a low
square tower. It consists of a nave, separated from its aisles by pointed
arches, springing from piers unadorned by capitals, and the roof
'-- Upheld
By naked rafters intricately cross'd,
Like leafless underboughs, 'mid some thick grove,
All wither'd by the depth of shade above.'
The east window of the chancel is large, and filled with fine old painted
glass, brought from Furness Abbey; by its present arrangement, however, the
effect is very diminished. Among the monuments are some belonging to the
Philipsons, the ancient possessors of Calgarth. By far the most interesting
is that to Dr. Watson, late Bishop of Llandaff, who lies buried at the east
end of the churchyard,
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 29}
{continues last paragraph}
with the following plain inscription:- 'Ricardi Watson, Episcopi
Landavensis, cineribus sacrum; Obiit Julli 1, A.D. 1816: Aetatis 79.'
The rectory is on the banks of the lake, along whose shore the glebe land
extends to some length.
On the opposite promontory, almost hid amidst the leafy shade of sycamores,
stands
{marginal = Windermere Ferry}
THE FERRY HOUSE.
He who cannot delay to see Coniston, should cross to this spot. Hence are
commanded three views, widely distinguished from each other, yet all noble:
First, the prospect looking down the lake, by Berkshire Island and Storrs
Hall to Rawlinson's Nab, is one of amenity and richness: Second, in a
north-easterly direction over the great island, the eye rests upon Hill
Bell; below, but beyond the two promontories stretching, one from the
island, the other from the Rector's land, appears the water, a single
island set like a gem in its crystal surface, and the green slopes of
Rayrigg over it: Third, looking north from the place where the carriage
boats are moored, Crow Holm rises out of the water on the right - Curwen's
Island extends beyond it - opposite to which is Furness Fell - the island
seen in the midst is one of the Lily of the Valley Islands - and the Pike
of Wansfell, with Dove Nest below, is overtopped by Scandale Fell and the
Rydal mountains.
{marginal = The Station, Claife}
On a hill above the Ferry is the Station House;
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
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{continues last paragraph}
its windows are filled with glass, coloured so as to represent the
landscape as it appears at the different seasons of the year. The lake is
here seen at your feet, Curwen and all the islands studding its waters -
the wooded parks and uplands of Troutbeck and Applethwaite - Hill Bell and
High Street terminating the prospect. The view to the southward is a great
contrast to this. Here the promontories of Rawlinson's Nab and Storrs Hall
push boldly into the waste of waters, while the well-wooded but moderate
heights of Gunner's How and Fell Foot close the distance.
{marginal = Windermere to Ambleside}
The roads from Bowness and Kendal join a little beyond what is called
Miller Ground, whence there is a view of Windermere and the Pikes of
Langdale, which is one of the richest in nature. The lake is visible all
the way from Bellegrange to its head, with its far winding bays and groves.
Between the eye and the water lies Calgarth. On the opposite shores, High
Wray and the buildings at Brathay give animation to the scenery. The Pikes
of Langdale - the Eskdale, Wastdale, and Borrowdale mountains - finish this
splendid exhibition. On the left is Calgarth Park, built by Bishop Watson,
on the site of the ancient seat of the Philipsons. The greater part of the
road to Ambleside, along the borders of the water, is shade by wood of fine
growth, comprising oak, sycamore, beech, chestnut, and ash , and is rich in
a diversity of grand and pleasing scenery. Should the pedestrian be tempted
to step aside and ascend the emi-
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{page = 31}
{continues last paragraph}
[emi]nences near the road, he will find every field to add a fresh charm,
and amply repay his additional toil.
{marginal = Low Wood Inn}
LOW WOOD INN
Is delightfully situated on a small bay, over which are beheld Brathay Park
and the Pikes of Great Langdale, Loughrigg Fell, and Fairfield; while
southward, the lake steals quietly away between sloping shores adorned with
woodlands and farm-steads, till the view is stopped by Curwen's Island. By
those who love retirement, this inn will be chosen as a place of temporary
abode, more especially since the excursions generally made from Ambleside
can be equally as well accomplished from hence. Beautiful views towards
each extremity of the Mere may be enjoyed from the fields above the inn and
the lane leading to Troutbeck, a mountain valley, distinguished by the
Fells at its head - the picturesque remains of cottage architecture - and
the fine foregrounds formed by the river at every step. This stream rises
in High Street, flows over a very stony channel down to the park, whence it
glides one while quietly, at another, chafing with foam, till it is lost in
the silent depths of Windermere. The village is half a mile long, wildly
scattered on the side of a steep hill, at the foot of which are the chapel
and school. The views of Windermere are enchanting, and Calgarth on its
shores appears to the greatest advantage.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 32}
{continues last paragraph}
In visiting this valley, it is best to commence at Troutbeck Bridge and
descend to Low Wood.
In proceeding from Low Wood Inn, the tourist leaves the shores of the lake
at Waterhead, where the boats belonging to Ambleside are moored.
{marginal = Ambleside and excursions}
AMBLESIDE,
A small market-town, romantically situated in the vale of Brathay, and
half-encircled by a range of stately mountains. It is a mile north of the
head of Windermere, and is built in pleasing irregularity on the side of a
hill, commanding prospects of the vale, the parks of Rydal, Brathay, and
Windermere, amongst which the various outlets and approaches wind
interestingly, detaining the tourist at every step by new combinations and
unexpected beauties. Excellent fare can be had at the Salutation,
Commercial, and White Lion inns, and in lodgings. From its central station,
the town is frequently made the head-quarters of tourists for a
considerable time, as within the compass of seven miles are the following
lakes;- Windermere, Esthwaite Water, Elter Water, Coniston, Rydal Water,
Grasmere, and Ulles Water. It was formerly the site of a Roman station;
ruined wall and traces of fortifications are discernible, and armour and
coins have been found. Most of the houses have been rebuilt or altered; the
old market-house, also, which was supported on pillars and galleried round,
shared the same fate in 1796, so that the town now
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{page = 33}
{continues last paragraph}
wears a modern appearance, and although deprived of many of those
delightful studies which enamoured the artist Green, possesses more of
internal comfort. The chapel, standing at the north end of the town, on an
elevated station, was rebuilt in 1822, by a rate; it had been made
parochial in 1675, by the Bishop of Chester. The town also reaps the
benefit of a well-endowed grammar-school, founded by John Kelswick in 1721.
Such is the suitable position of Ambleside, that several short walks and
excursions may be taken; and these again can be agreeably varied by others
of greater distance, and requiring longer time.
{marginal = Stockghyll Force}
STOCKGILL FORCE
Rises in the Screes on Scandale Fells, not far from Kirkstone, and divides
the town of Ambleside. The finest part of the stream is between the Woollen
Mill and the Force. In looking up the river from its bed, the Pike of
Wansfell forms a fine apex. Proceeding along the edge of a chasm for a
short distance, the Fall bursts upon the sight of the visitor, when
standing on the brink of the precipice opposite to it, and at a point
midway between the top and bottom. Its height is about one hundred and
fifty feet, and it is divided at the summit by a huge crag into two
streams, which again unite before they are finally precipitated into the
basin below; from which the waters rush along a gill, luxuriantly adorned
with rock and wood, and wind-
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 34}
{continues last paragraph}
[wind]ing through it for the space of a mile, to which the Langdale Pikes
form a fine distance. On the bridge below stands a summer-house, the only
relic of Ambleside Hall, now hid by other buildings from the eye of the
stranger.
Scandale Beck, on the road to Keswick, presents some pretty cascades,
especially if the walk be extended up from Scandale Bridge. The Nook Bridge
and the Gale are equally inviting.
{marginal = Wansfell; Skelgill}
WANSFELL AND SKELGILL.
Mountain excursions of moderate elevation, and almost without fatigue, may
be made to Skelgill and Wansfell Pike, whence the localities of Ambleside
are displayed as on a map, and thus the stranger is enabled to form a
better idea of his position with regard to the mighty masses around him.
Windermere, also, is seen in a new point of view.
{marginal = Fairfield}
FAIRFIELD.
The attainment of the top of this mountain presents a lengthened excursion,
attended with more of enterprise and fatigue; it is two thousand nine
hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, closing on the north the
Rydal domain, whence it should be ascended, in a course directed on the
left to Nab Scar. In a circular round from this point, Windermere, Blelham
Tarn, Esthwaite Water, Coniston, Elter Water, Rydal Water, Grasmere,
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 35}
and Easedale Tarn, the river Rothay in all its windings, Morecambe Bay,
Milnthorpe Sands, and the Yorkshire mountains; and, lastly, the mountains
about Eskdale, Borrodale, Wastdale, and Ennerdale, are visible. From the
highest point, Graysdale Tarn and Ulles Water, Penrith, and Crossfell, are
discernible; and three is a grand rocky view into Deepdale and Hartshope
successively.
{marginal = Loughrigg Fell; Loughrigg Tarn}
LOUGHRIGG FELL AND TARN.
{continues last paragraph}
No fell unfolds scenes so unequalled from such a moderate elevation, with
so little fatigue, as Loughrigg, lying to the west of Ambleside. Leaving
the Market-place, the pedestrian proceeds to Miller Bridge, from whence
there is a fine retrospective view of the town, thence to Ivy Crag, and so
to the top, which is one thousand and fifty feet above Windermere. A
considerable part of the Queen of Lakes, as well as Rydal and Grasmere, may
be seen by traversing its different points, together with portions of
Coniston and Thirlmere, and the Tarns of Blelham and Elter Water. Loughrigg
Tarn lies under the west end of the Fell, having a margin of firm green
meadows, reeds, and lilies, adorning its tiny bays, which are bordered here
and there with gravel, whilst a small stream issues out of it. A few
cottages are reflected in its bosom, above which rise rocky and barren
steeps, intermingled with wood; and the solemn
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{continues last paragraph}
Pikes of Langdale overlook the low, cultivated ridge of land, that forms
the northern boundary of this small, quiet, and fertile spot.
{marginal = The Langdales}
LANGDALE AND THE PIKES.
'We started - and he led towards the hills,
Up through an ample vale, with higher hills
Before us, mountains stern and desolate;
But, in the majesty of distance now
Set off, and to our view appearing fair
Of aspect, with aerial softness clad.
And beautified with morning's purple beams.'
The chief excursion, and one accomplished with most advantage from this
station, is that to the two Langdales, and the Pikes. The best views are
looking up the vale, that is, in a westward direction. You pass through
Clappersgate, leaving Brathay Bridge on the left, the river flowing towards
you, flanked on either side by the Tilberthwaite and Langdale mountains.
Having proceeded two miles, the road divides, the one on the right to Great
Langdale, the left, which you pursue, leading to Little Langdale by
Skelwith Bridge. Here there is a superb view of Elter Water with Lingmire.
{marginal = Skelwith Bridge; Skelwith Force}
A little above the bridge is Skelwith Force, remarkable not so much for
height as for the body of water which forms the spectacle. The river is
here contracted between a chasm in the bed of rocks, forming a crooked
trough, into whose abyss the waters are flung from a height of twenty feet;
the Pikes again compose fine distances.
{marginal = Colwith Force}
The next and perhaps finest of fall, is Colwith
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Force with Wedderlamb, forming a grand object as beheld from the bed of the
river. A stupendous crag rises out of the river; the glen sinks belnw (sic)
to the depth of a hundred feet, and the water rushes down in four leaps,
the last being the deepest, sending
'From hollow clefts up to the clearer air
A cloud of mist, that, smitten by the sun,
Varies its rainbow hues.'
The neighbourhood is uncommonly grand and beautiful.
{marginal = Little Langdale}
Little Langdale is parallel to Great Langdale, from which it is separated
by Lingmire. It is of higher elevation, and is distinguished by mountain
wildness and seclusion, the rugged hills being clad with heath and furze.
The entrance into it is narrow and crooked, and through a profusion of
birch and hazel, which conceal the river that issues out of the Tarn,
having the Great and Little Carrs as its background. Further on to the left
is Fell Foot, an ancient inn, on the Old Bell road which led from Kendal to
Whitehaven over Hard Knot and Wry Nose.
{marginal = Blea Tarn}
Blea Tarn, the next object, is on the heights between the Langdales, and is
enriched by the Pikes, Bowfell being in direct prospect,
'A quiet, treeless nook, with two green fields,
A liquid pool that glitter'd in the sun,
And on bare dwelling, one abode, no more!'
At Wall End, you look down into a scene composed of extraordinary grandeur
and sublimity; a circuitous and level bottom of rich enclosures
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{page = 38}
{continues last paragraph}
and wood straggling up the sides of the mountains, amidst which meanders
the mountain-born Brathay fed with the dews and storms of heaven. From Wall
End the road passes across the valley to Mill Beck, whence is commenced the
ascent of the Pikes.
{marginal = Dungeon Ghyll Force}
In a fissure of the mountain, and enclosed by gloomy rocks, is Dungeon
Gill, a considerable stream tumbling from a lofty precipice, between sides
of impending and perpendicular rock, into a deep dark basin. From the
summit a fragment of rock is suspended, forming a rude arch; the stranger
will admire, but shudder, to pass this natural bridge.
{marginal = Stickle Tarn}
Stickle Tarn is a circular piece of water in the bosom of the mountain,
having soft turf on three fourths of its margin, and reflecting in its calm
surface the dark and towering crags of Pavey Ark, which rise from its
brink, and are perhaps the most magnificent range of rocks in the country:
a good point to view them from is the outlet of the lake.
{marginal = Langdale Pikes}
The summit of the mountain is crowned with three lofty pikes, all composed
of perpendicular rocks, and seeming like pillars to support the heavens.
'-- There the sun himself,
At the calm close of summer's longest day,
Rests his substantial orb; between those heights,
And on the top of either pinnacle,
More keenly than elsewhere in night's blue vault,
Sparkle the stars, as of their station proud.'
They appear to rise not far from each other, but it takes many a weary and
toilsome step to travel
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{page = 39}
{continues last paragraph}
from one to the other. The north-west pike is the lowest, but most regular
and conical; the south, is more broken and rugged; and the east, which is
the highest and most easy of ascent, overlooks the rest, and all these
mountain regions, rising in masses, that are beheld with somewhat of
terror. Langdale Head and Scafell Pikes are quite close. On the right are
Great End in Borrowdale, Seatoller in Yewbarrow, Great Gable in Wastdale,
Glaramara and Rosthwaite Cam, Grasmire, Grizedale and Causey Pikes, Lord's
Seat, and the distant coasts of Cumberland and Scotland. In a northern
direction are seen Skiddaw, and on the left of him Helvellyn, Fairfield,
and Wansfell, Ambleside, with Windermere, Loughrigg Tarn, Elter Water, and
Esthwaite Water.
{marginal = Thrang Quarry}
After descending, the slate quarries at Thrang Crag are on many accounts
worthy of inspection. The dependent chapel of Langdale, at the foot of
Silver How, is small and neat, adapted to its congregation.
{marginal = Elter Water}
Elter Water Tarn has low marshy shores, frequently inundated by its waters;
seen in conjunction with Windermere, it, however, forms a beautiful
picture. From the chapel, the tourist may return either by Loughrigg Tarn
to Ambleside, or round Loughrigg Fell, along the terrace-road, of which
there are sweet views of Grasmere and Rydal; both which waters should be
seen from their western sides, although the carriage-road along their
eastern banks is replete with beauty.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 40}
{continues last paragraph}
The inspection of the western sides ought to form a separate journey, the
return to Ambleside being by the east.
{marginal = Ambleside to Keswick}
Bidding adieu to Ambleside, highly gratified with it and the neighbouring
scenery, we shall now proceed on the direct route to Keswick.
{marginal = Low Fall, Rydal; High Fall, Rydal}
The road from Ambleside is adorned with beautiful trees, amongst which the
Lord's Oak is conspicuous. On the right is Rydal Hall, the large mansion of
Lady le Fleming, embosomed in a shady park, on a gently rising eminence at
the junction of two vales; behind it, rise the steep and lofty Fairfield,
and the ravine of Rydal Head. The Rydal Waterfalls are shown by a domestic;
the stranger is introduced into a summer-house, from which he suddenly
beholds the Lower Fall, forming an enchanting garden-scene. He is then
conducted amidst groves of oaks, through whose opening glades peeps are
obtained of the huge mountains above, and the sweet vale below, to the
Upper Fall, which is fine in all seasons; the stream is much contracted,
and precipitated down a perpendicular wall of rock into a dark basin. From
the bed of the river at the top of the lower cascade, this Fall is a scene
of considerable interest. The houses at Rydal are prettily covered with ivy
and other creepers, and the old-fashioned picturesque chimneys are
retained. It is now also ornamented by a tasteful little chapel, of the
English style of architecture, and its hexagonal tower finished with
pinnacles, is a beautiful object from various points.
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{page = 41}
{continues last paragraph}
{marginal = Rydal Mount; William Wordsworth}
Above the hall is Rydal Mount, the residence of William Wordsworth, Esq.
looking down the vale of Ambleside and Windermere on the one side, and of
Rydal on the other; the house and gardens are in the best taste, the latter
having been laid out by the poet himself. Ivy Cottage on the one side, is
the beautiful creation of the sportive genius of Dr. Tilbrooke, formerly a
Fellow of Peter House.
{marginal = Rydal Water}
RYDAL WATER
Is a small lake, two miles from Ambleside, about one mile long, and half a
mile broad, and surrounded closely on all sides by lofty fells. The shores
are picturesque, having a rocky promontory here and there, and bays in
which the reeds wave over the floating flowers of the lily. The wooded
islets add to its beauty. Pike, perch, eel, and trout, are found in its
waters, which have been at different times the graves of rash and
thoughtless skaters.
At the White Moss Slate Quarry, the new and old roads to Grasmere separate.
Pursuing the new road, which winds through a narrow defile, having the
Rothay on the left hid amidst a profusion of underwood, a sudden bend
introduces the traveller to the Dale and Lake of Grasmere, on whose shores
the road lies for a small distance.
{marginal = Grasmere}
GRASMERE.
This water is oval, and lies at the south end of an oval valley. Its
dimensions are a mile one way,
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{continues last paragraph}
and half a mile the other. In its centre, a single island of verdant
pasture, rising boldly from the water in a fine swelling form. Being
completely encircled by mountains, a view of Grasmere from any direction is
varied with bold and ennobling mountains, but those are the most awakening
which include the Church. There are two inns in the dale, so that the
tourist may stay here for a while, and examine the component features in
detail.
The finest views are from the terrace-road under Loughrigg. Here the lake
is at your feet, with the church and village scattered amid green
enclosures at the base of Butterlip How. On the left are the beetling rocks
and woods which ornament the front of Silver How; on the right, Fairfield
and Seat Sandale; and in front, Helm Crag, with its rugged top, surnamed
the Lion and Lamb; beyond which is seen the road stretching through bare
enclosures up to the Raise Gap. The descent from Langdale gives very nearly
the same features, and, if I am not mistaken, has been thus felicitously
described by the master-hand of Wordsworth:
'- So we descend; and winding round a rock,
Attain a point that showed the valley; stretch'd
In length before us, and not distant far,
Upon a rising ground, a grey church-tower,
Whose battlements were screened by tufted trees.
And, tow'rds a crystal mere, that lay beyond
Among steep hills and woods embosomed, flow'd
A copious stream with boldly-winding course;
Here traceable, there hidden - there again
To sight restor'd, and glittering in the sun.
On the stream's bank, and every where, appear'd
Fair dwellings, single or in social knots;
Some scattered o'er the level, others perch'd
On the hill-side, a cheerful quiet scene,
Now in its morning purity array'd.'
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 43}
The approach from the old Ambleside road extends the prospect into
Easedale. The views on the descent from the Raise Gap, which are in the
opposite direction, were much admired and most charmingly described by the
poet Gray. There is a most extensive view in the approach from Patterdale,
in which this Lake forms the foreground, and Coniston Water and the Duddon
Estuary gleam in the distance. The church and the rectory stand near it,
nearly in the centre of the dale, the former being dedicated to Saint
Oswald, and consisting of a nave, with aisles, south porch, and a chancel.
The tower is square and embattled. The doors are ornamented with old iron
scroll-work. The interior is dark and gloomy, occupied by oaken benches,
and the floor strewed with rushes, which are renewed amid much rejoicing
every summer, when a queen of the sports is appointed. The painter, Green -
indefatigable and praise-worthy artist! - lies buried in this church-yard,
towards which he seems to have had some kindly predisposition. 'The
church-yard of Grasmere, shaded by aged pines and sycamores, is interesting
to those who court silence and solitude. Some charitable stranger has
lately added the mournful yew, a tree sacred to such situations.'
The Red Lion, which stands about one hundred yards from the church, is a
good situation for those who wish to make tours into
{marginal = Easedale}
EASEDALE.
Coldale Fell separates the Easedales. Passing
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over Butterlip How, a little rocky and wooded hill north of the inn,
proceed to Goody Bridge. Here the road rises into this quiet dale, and
affords a glorious panorama of the surrounding vale, embracing the lake,
church, and neighbouring dwellings, with Loughrigg behind. Steel Bridge is
an artist-like subject; and Sour Milk Gill and Coldale Fell, as backgrounds
to a bridge, compose admirable objects for the pencil. This water runs out
of Easedale Tarn, one of the largest of the elevated lakes; Coldale Fell
shelters it from the north and west, and Blakerigg appears over the water's
head, when viewed from its foot; whence also there is a pretty peep at
Hollin Grove, backed by Nab Scar and Wansfell. It will be pleasanter to
return the same way back, than to pass forward, as may be done by
pedestrians, either into Borrodale or Wythburn Head.
{marginal = Dunmail Raise}
The Swan inn stands on the high road, beyond the lake and house in which
Mr. De Quincy took up his residence. From hence the road is a long and
gradual ascent, mounting in mazy serpentines to the Raise Gap; the steepest
part of the road is from Highbroad Rain, through the turnpike, to a long
dreary pass, through which the wind sweeps in piercing blasts. On the left
brawls along the Rothay or Raise Beck, over which towers the naked Helm
Crag. On the right of the Raise Gap, is a stream that divides the counties
of Cumberland and Westmorland, and in wet weather presents a number of fine
falls.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 45}
{marginal = Dunmail Raise Stones}
DUNMAIL RAISE
Is a cairn or burrow of stones, marking the place where the last king of
Cumbria was defeated by the Saxon Edmund, who put out the eyes of the son
before the father's face, wasted his kingdom, and then gave it to Malcolm,
king of Scotland, to hold in fealty. The wall dividing the counties is
built over it, and the road is partly cut through it. This gap is seven
hundred and twenty feet above the sea.
{marginal = Wythburn}
On the left are Steel Fell, the green cove of Wythburn Head, and Nab Scar,
and on the right are the bulwarks and buttresses of Helvellyn. Immediately
before the spectators, are the chapel of Wythburn and inn, then the Lake,
and Skiddaw closing the end of the valley, which, from the almost utter
absence of wood, wears a cold and desolate aspect. The Horse Head inn is an
excellent resting-place, and a guide, at a moderate charge, can be obtained
here for the ascent of Helvellyn, which is most easily accomplished from
this place. Whilst the luncheon is preparing, let the tourist take a look
at the little chapel on the opposite side of the road; it is an advanced
post of Crosthwaite Church, and is one of five similarly situated. The
building does not claim much attention, being small, yet commodious; but
unfortunately for the dalesmen, the chapel-yard is unconsecrated, and thus
one source of useful and heart-softening reflections, arising from the
sight of their relations' graves, is closed to them.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 46}
{marginal = Helvellyn}
At the very beginning of the ascent, there is a beautiful cascade on the
stream, which is dashed down the steeps of Whelpside. The summit cannot be
seen from the road, neither is the mountain itself seen anywhere to so much
advantage as some others, from being crowded in on all sides by lofty
compeers. Striding Edge and Swirrel stand on the east, Whelpside and Dolly
Waggon Pike, with the Middle Tongue, on the west, embracing many noble
eminences, beautiful villas, and sweet habitations, within their shadows.
The ascent is long, but neither difficult nor dangerous. Arrived at the
top, a vast tract of mountainous country is overlooked; the most prominent
objects, and those seen with the greatest distinctness, are the lofty
mountains as they point towards the sky. Behind these vast masses are hid
many interesting scenes, while beneath and beyond are vistas of variously
mingled landscapes, whose parts are indistinctly seen. Looking north,
Skiddaw and Saddleback appear over Whiteside and Styx; at its foot are
Keppel Cove Tarn and Red Tarn, on the edge of which Gough's remains, after
having been watched over by his dog, 'through three months' space,' were
accidentally found by a shepherd; the middle and lower reaches of Ulles
Water and Place Fell on its borders; Angle Tarn and the Calcades (sic)
falling towards Hartshope, which cannot itself be seen; and then the tops
and ridges of St. Sunday Crag and Dolly Waggon Pike. Far away to the south,
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 47}
{continues last paragraph}
Windermere, Coniston, and Esthwaite, the Lancaster Sands, and Yorkshire
mountains, fill the horizon; in the west, the Langdale Pikes and Wry Nose
rise beyond Wythburn Head; the Scafell Pikes, with Great End and Lingmell,
the Borrowdale mountains, Glaramara, and Great Gable, stand in bold relief
against the sun's declining beams. The Derwent mountains complete the
circle, the surface of Bassenthwaite glowing like burnished gold, and the
lordly Criffel lifts his azure head over Solway's foaming tide. Helvellyn
is three thousand and fifty-five feet above the level of the sea.
{marginal = Thirlmere}
LEATHES WATER.
The inn is a mile from the head of the lake, which is known by the several
names of Leathes Water, Thirlmere, Wythburn Water, and Brackmere. It is
about three miles in length, though rarely exceeding a quarter of a mile in
breadth; the depth is not above eighteen fathoms, and its waters, which are
the most elevated of any, are not remarkable for clearness. Pike, trout,
and perch, are the chief fish. It is nearly equally divided by two
promontories, connected by a series of wooden bridges and stone causeways
at a place where it is fordable. The lower half, containing a small island,
presents the most beautiful views; the upper part being more remarkable for
wildness and sublimity. Tourists are generally content with
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{page = 48}
{continues last paragraph}
a sight of this lake from the high road, but the western side ought not on
any account to be passed by without a perambulation. This mere is fed by
two streams; the main one rising in Wythburn Head; the other, not much
inferior, pours down a rocky gill, after issuing out of Harrop Tarn, a
marshy water of considerable size, situated at the foot of a precipice, in
a coom on the western side of the valley.
'There sometimes doth the leaping fish
Send through the tarn a lonely cheer;
The crag repeats the raven's croak,
In symphony austere;
Thither the rainbow comes - the cloud -
And mists that spread the flying shroud.'
In order to see this vale from its western side, cross the meadows from the
inn to a few white cottages, enlivened by the green leaves of the cheerful
hollin tree, called the City, a corruption undoubtedly from some more
homely epithet; thence the road, not suitable for modern carriages, leads
under towering precipices and crags to an eminence or rather promontory
jutting into the lake, from which Helvellyn appears to rise directly and
perpendicularly out of the water. In front, is the upper lake and alpine
bridges, separating it from the lower reach, with the wood-crested How and
Naddle Fell on one hand, on the other, the black and storm-shattered fronts
of Fisher and Raven Crags; and often between these rocky frames Blencathra
hangs suspended in aerial blue. In a coom on the left, between Bull Crag
and Fisher
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{page = 49}
{continues last paragraph}
Crag, are the Deargarth Cascades. Armboth House is pleasantly situated on
the top of a gentle eminence under the Fells, whence the ground falls in
easy slopes all round to the water's edge: the views from the house are
commanding, and the eye rests upon the huge surfaces of Helvellyn and the
Great Dodd. Raven Crag is a mighty mass of dark, frowning crags, that have
braved the fury of many a storm. From its foot, looking diagonally across
the lake, Dalehead Hall, amid woods of a modern growth, and, for the first
time, the summit of Helvellyn, form a magnificent picture. Hence to the
outlet of the lake, where the river may be watched, forming still pools
between low meadows of green pasture, and stealing quietly and rather
sluggishly away to foam and chafe with the rocks and wilds of
Legberthwaite, the traveller will shortly after join the direct road, from
which he had diverged in the dreary moss of Shoolthwaite.
From the Horse Head inn, the carriage-road winds under Helvellyn by the
margin of the lake, which it leaves by a very steep ascent. This side of
the dale presents the sternest features, seen, too, most impressively -
' When the storm
Rides high - when all the upper air is fill'd
With roaring sound, that ceases not to flow
Like smoke, along the level of the blast.'
From the top of this hill, is that admired and magnificent view of
Legberthwaite, or, as it is frequently called, the Vale of St. John; here
is neither
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{page = 50}
{continues last paragraph}
{marginal = Legburthwaite}
lake nor stream, the carriage-road is the only foreground - sweet
enclosures repose in their freshness between Helvellyn and the Castle Rock,
the How and Naddle, whilst the crags of Wanthwaite frown on a scene, which
is closed by the southern front of Blencathra, torn into frightful ravines,
and gullies, and precipices. There is an inn here, the King's Head, whence
Legberthwaite and the grounds of Dalehead Hall can be more readily visited.
A little beyond, cross St. John's Beck, the water of which flows out of
Thirlmere, by Smalthwaite Bridge of one arch, which is a fine study for the
artist, along with its accompaniments. Thence the road leads through
Shoolthwaite Moss, a peat-bog lying between Naddle Fell and the Iron and
Gait Crags. Rougha Bridge is another sketch with its neighbouring crags,
that should grace the portfolio. A little in advance from this, is a
station which displays to the traveller the three mountains of Skiddaw,
Saddleback, and Helvellyn, visible to their summits. Blencathra perhaps
appears most favourable to the eye, the middle-ground harmonising best with
it. The stranger now arrives at Castle Rigg Brow, from whence a prospect,
which the last few miles of dreary desolation had not led him to count
upon, bursts upon his gladdened sight. The gleaming waters of Bassenthwaite
shine amid the well-wooded and highly-cultivated valley, which extends from
that lake to the town of Keswick. Crosthwaite church, with innumerable
seats, villages, and cottages, lie interspersed
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{page = 51}
{continues last paragraph}
throughout the rich and glowing plain. On the south and west, Bassenthwaite
is bounded by the craggy tops stretching from Grizedale Pike to the
cultivated lands beyond Wythop Woods, and the widely-extended vale is
sheltered by Skiddaw on the north. The view expands as you descend to Brow
Top, whence the eye takes in Derwent Water and the Borrowdale mountains at
its head.
{marginal = Keswick and excursions}
KESWICK
Is a neat market-town, consisting of one long street of good houses,
situated near the foot of Derwent Water. The chief inns are the Royal Oak
and Queen's Head; but there are several smaller inns, where parties may be
accommodated, besides many neatly-furnished private lodgings. Post-chaises
and ponies may be had at the inns, with intelligent guides for excursions
by land, and neat pleasure-boats for the water. Here are two museums,
exhibiting the geological history of the surrounding locality, and many
foreign curiosities; one was established by the late Mr. Crosthwaite, and
is now kept by his son. At both the museums, the various mineral
productions of the district are exposed for sale. The Town-Hall was built
in 1813, on the site of the old Court House; the bell on which the clock
strikes was removed from the seat of the Radcliffes, on Lord's Island, and
is inscribed 'H. O. R. O., 1001.' This building is used both for a
court-room, and also for marketing
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 52}
{continues last paragraph}
{marginal = Crosthwaite}
and other public purposes. The parish church of Crosthwaite stands almost
in the centre of this finest of vales; the parish is very extensive,
containing scenery not to be surpassed, whether you regard the varied
beauties of Derwent Water, the stern majesty of Thirlmere, the lovely rural
meads of Newlands, the sublime gorge of Borrowdale, or the lone grandeur of
Watendlath. The church, dedicated to St. Kentigern, is a building of the
age when the perpendicular style of architecture was becoming debased, and
consists of a nave, with aisles and chancel. There is an interesting
hexagonal font, having shields and figures carved on each of the fronts;
and in one of the windows there is some stained glass. The church was
anciently covered with lead, which was exchanged for a roof of slate in
1812. The vicarage is beautifully placed on an eminence half a mile from
the church, and commands a rich extending prospect. Near the parish
church-yard is the Grammar School, and the charitable institutions are very
numerous and creditable to the inhabitants. A new church of the pointed
style, having a tower and spire at the west end, has been built by the late
William Marshall, Esq. the purchaser of the Greenwich property, situated
here. This is a pleasing object in the approach from Penrith. At Keswick
are manufactories of coarse woollen goods, edge-tools, and black-lead
pencils. The great high-roads from Kendal and Penrith, to Cockermouth,
Whitehaven, &c. unite here, rendering this place the grand rendez-
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 52a}
{text- plate:-}
{image = FD04.jpg}
{inscription- DERWENT WATER AND VALE OF KESWICK.}
{caption- Map and print, uncoloured engraving, Derwent Water and Vale of
Keswick, engraved by W H Lizars, published by Charles Thurnham, Carlisle,
and by R Groombridge, 5 Paternoster Row, London, 1843.}
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 53}
{continues last paragraph}
[rendez]vous of tourists whilst visiting the northern parts of the Lakes.
We shall now hasten to describe the lake, which is the chief object of
attraction, and then the various walks and short tours which can be most
conveniently undertaken from this point.
{marginal = Derwent Water}
DERWENT WATER
Is of an oval shape, three miles long, and one mile and a half broad. Its
waters abound with trout, pike, perch, and eels; and are separated from
Bassenthwaite by low, flat, marshy, meadow lands. This lake is surrounded
by magnificence. On the south, rise the fantastic mountains of Borrowdale;
to the north, the solitary majesty of Skiddaw uprears his lordly head; on
the east, the steeps of Wallow Crag, Lowdore, and the Gowdar Crag; and on
the west, Cat Bells and the clustering mountains of Newlands. It has been
said to partake of the majesty of Ulles Water, and the lovely scenery of
Windermere. The near views of this lake are from Crow Park, Friar's Crag,
Stable Field, and the Vicarage; the more distant are from Latrigg,
Ormathwaite, Applethwaite, and along the foot of Skiddaw towards
Bassenthwaite. Good bird's-eye views are presented from Castle Hill,
Ashness, and Lowdore.
{marginal = islands, Derwent Water}
The islands rather take from, than add to the attractions of the water.
Their uniform roundness and thickness of foliage, with the manner of
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{continues last paragraph}
{marginal = floating island}
their disposition, when viewed with any of the grander features about the
lake, are deformities. Lord's Island, six acres in extent, once the
residence of the unfortunate Radcliffes, is now entirely covered with wood:
it is, along with Rampsholm, the property of W. Marshall, Esq. who
purchased the Greenwich Hospital estates in this district. The Vicar's
Island, in olden times pertaining to Fountain's Abbey, now belonging to
General Peachy, is beautifully laid out in pleasure-grounds, and crowned
with a neat mansion, nearly hid amidst the variety of trees, having a view
to the south only. St. Herbert's Island, nearly in the middle of the lake,
was the residence of the saint whose name it bears. In his life-time, he
was an intimate with St. Cuthbert of Durham, and died, according to Bede,
in 687. There is a small grotto near the remains of what are thought to be
the hermit's cell. The island belongs to Sir Wilfrid Lawson, of Brayton
Hall, Bart. There are some smaller islands, but not of such importance as
to demand a separate description. Of the Floating Island, or rather rising
and sinking Island, the account given by Mr. Otley is perhaps best and most
plausible; as an object of interest, however, it is worth nothing to the
tourist.
In riding round the lake, numberless are the views of beauty, magnificence,
and sublimity, which will strike the traveller of taste and discernment.
Leaving Keswick and proceeding southwards along the eastern side, you have
the grandest side-screens
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{continues last paragraph}
{marginal = Barrow Cascade; Lodore Falls}
and foregrounds in Wallow Crag and the several precipices in that range,
which sometimes come magnificently forward, sometimes retire and lean to
the east, their grey fronts often enlivened by green woods, and combining
with the water - the small meadowy promontories and tree-clad eminences -
with Glaramara and his azure compeers in Borrowdale. The first we shall
particularise is one of the lake, as seen over Lord's Island, Castle Head
being on the left and Friar Crag on the right of that island, and beyond,
Causey Pike with Newlands lying between Grizedale and Cat Bells. On Barrow
Common may be observed that finely-wooded promontory, which boldly projects
almost into the middle of the lake from the hall built by the late Joseph
Pocklington, Esq. and commanding a fine view of Derwent Water and Skiddaw.
The cascade, at the back of the house, may be seen by leave; there are two
falls, but the upper one is artificial; fine trees, grassy banks, and rocks
richly decked in many greened mosses, are the adornments of these falls,
and their height is one hundred and twenty-two feet. After leaving Barrow,
the far-famed Lowdore possesses irresistible claims on the notice of the
wanderer. This Force, after incessant rains, is with its accompaniments
sublime, but unfortunately, perhaps, for those who visit the Lakes, few
have the opportunity of seeing it at such a time. The chasm through which
the river passes is immense, and in dry seasons the stones or fragments of
rock subdivide and obscure its waters. Gowdar
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{continues last paragraph}
{marginal = Grange; Portinscale}
Crag upon the left, broad, bold, and finely marked, rearing its aged head
to an enormous height, overlooks the embattled projection of Shepherd's
Crag on the right. These rocks, exhibiting surfaces of grandeur, are finely
contrasted and beautifully enriched with oak, ash, and birch, of which some
are large and stately, others picturesque and wild, fantastically expanding
over, and impending from, and partially obscuring rocks where vegetation
could scarcely be expected. There is a good inn where refreshment may be
had at a moderate charge. Further on is a scene greatly and deservedly
admired, we mean the bridge and village of Grange, planted on the west
banks of the Derwent; the sweetly-wooded Holme Crag and other knolls swell
above the houses, over which masses of rock and precipitous crags sublimely
tower. The road here, without crossing the water, enters Borrowdale. Along
the western side of the lake are two terrace-roads, the lower one of which
is commonly used, and commands a succession of scenes replete with
gratification. The retrospective views are into Borrowdale, but in front
are the islands studding the glassy mirror of the lake, the finely-embayed
coast about Water End and Brandelow, with the deeply-indented shores of the
rich country beyond, and the town of Keswick overlooked by Lonscale Fell,
Skiddaw, and Blencathra. Passing by Derwent Bank and Lodge with Foe Park,
you come to Portinscale, a small village on the gentle swell of a hill,
which rises from the lake and river. From
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the neighbouring grounds that are higher than the houses, may be viewed the
lakes of Derwent Water and the Bassenthwaite, with all the finely-wooded
and fertile country reaching from Swineside to Skiddaw, a scene which for
extent, beauty, and sublimity, can rarely be equalled. Hence you cross the
Long Bridge over the Derwent, and passing the church by the high-road or
through the meadows of Howray, arrive again at Keswick.
The boating on the lake presents the same grand objects from a different
surface and point of view. We should, therefore, recommend the excursion to
be left to the discretion of the boatmen, who are also guides. If it could
be made by moonlight, the gratification would be intense.
As might naturally be expected, Keswick is surrounded by delightful walks,
and is the grand focus from whence rides, embracing every variety of lake
and mountain scenery, radiate.
{marginal = Crow Park}
CROW PARK,
Lying between the town and lake, and once covered with oaks, though now
denuded of its leafy honours, is a gentle eminence presenting several
beautiful views, which shall be pointed out by way of enumeration. The
first view is towards the head of the lake, beyond which the Borrowdale
mountains are observed clustering together above Castle Crag, the conical
hill in the centre of the opening. Second, directly west over the lake,
between Vicar's
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Island and the isthmus, are the Newlands mountains, and beyond them,
Robinson and High Stile on the east and west sides of Buttermere
respectively. Third, over the lower end of the lake is a scene of beauty
and grandeur; villas and the village of Braithwaite, partially hidden by
trees, are scattered over gentle eminences, Grizedale Pike towering over
the whole. And fourth, a very narrow strip of Bassenthwaite may be observed
over the meadows, and the easy swelling hills which in the remote distance
grace the foot of the lake.
{marginal = Friar's Crag}
FRIAR CRAG
Is the grand promenade, and the place to which all strangers are conducted
on their arrival in Keswick. The latter part of this walk is through a
grove of oaks and firs; and at the end there is a bench to rest on, whence
may be seen nearly the whole circumference of the lake.
{marginal = Cockshott Wood}
COCKSHOT
Presents a general view of the lake, and from its vicinity to the town, its
ease of access, and its numerous charms, demands peculiar attention.
{marginal = Castle Head; Wallow Crag}
CASTLEHEAD AND WALLOW CRAG.
There is a beautiful and entertaining walk to the summit of these, which is
gained by proceeding
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a short distance on the Borrowdale road, and then turning up the woods to
the left. At the commencement is a superb view of Keswick, the church, and
Bassenthwaite. On the top are benches, where you may rest, and look over
the soft bosom of the lake full into the gorge of Borrowdale, which is the
grandest aspect. To the north is Bassenthwaite Water and the stately
Skiddaw.
{marginal = River Greta}
THE GRETA.
There is not a more interesting walk than up this river, which presents
splendid views of Blencathra as you follow the stream up its course.
Downwards there is an attractive picture, the cotton-mill being in front,
whilst over a bend of the stream, flanked by woods, are seen the distant
mountains of Newlands.
{marginal = Castlerigg Stone Circle}
THE DRUID'S CIRCLE.
'A few rude monuments of mountain stone
Survive: all else is swept away.'
This religious monument is situated on the top of a lone hill, one mile and
three quarters on the road from Keswick to Penrith, in the centre of the
loftiest mountains in the district, away from the sight and sound of human
life. It occupies a circular area three hundred and thirty-six feet in
circumference, and one hundred and fourteen feet in diameter, surrounded by
thirty-eight granite stones
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{page = 60}
from three to eight feet high, having at the east end ten other stones,
forming three sides of a square. From these stones is seen the whole
encircling country; Skiddaw and Blencathra to the north present their
deep-chasmed and precipitous fronts; the Dodds, Wanthwaite Pikes, with the
savage dale of Naddle, shut up the scene to the south; and to the west, the
fells beyond Keswick rear their majestic and undulating summits to the
clouds; whilst on the east, the dreary waste of Hutton Moor is over-topped
by the blue summit of Cross Fell. It was amidst such scenes as these that
the Druid sage warmed into piety the hardy tempers of the Britons, and
employed the solemnity of nature to aid the sanctity of religion: for
'There his temple rose! no fretted aisle,
No vaulted roof adorn'd the simple pile,
But clouds above them, and around the wood -
Roofless and vast the circle columns stood!
Such relics still the wondering shepherd sees
Where ocean rocks the storm-clad Hebrides:
Where Keswick's lake expands its glassy breast,
Or Mona's cliffs conceal the eaglet's nest;
Or where dim silence holds its spectral reign,
O'er Scotia's heaths and Sarum's lonely plain.
Times spares them still - to tell how short the span
Assign'd to earth's uncertain wanderer - man;
How long his works, like summer's twilight ray,
Outlive the sunset of his own decay!'
{continues last paragraph}
Having described the neighbouring walks, such as may be made in an evening,
or when the weather has perhaps for part of the day kept the tourist
within, and he is at a loss to fill up the remainder
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{continues last paragraph}
profitably, an account of those which demand longer time shall follow.
{marginal = Watendlath}
WATENDLATH.
{marginal = Ashness Bridge}
The road pursues the eastern side of Derwent Water as far as Barrow Common,
when it ascends the hill, having Barrow House on the right, Ashness Bridge
crossing the stream which forms that cascade. There is a fine retrospective
view of Derwent Water, with Skiddaw, Bassenthwaite, and the distant lands.
The road then passes through a narrow valley, walled in on the right by
steep precipices two or three hundred feet high; while the other side
recedes upwards, so that its slopes admit of the plough. Through this
defile flows the stream forming Lowdore, which on leaving the valley enters
an abyss, rendered gloomy by beetling crags and shadowy trees. The hamlet
is in a solitary valley three hundred yards above the surrounding vales:
all the houses are richly coloured, and well combined with wood and back
grounds. The bridge is worthy of notice, and crosses the stream at its
outlet from the lake or tarn, which is large and circular, fringed with
trees and guarded by rocky heights. The stream that enters it, flows from
Blea Tarn, which is higher up, whence there is presented a most extensive
mountain prospect. Leaving this upper story of society, we shall descend
into Borrowdale, after passing
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{page = 62}
'A dreary plain,
With a tumultuous waste of huge hill-tops,
A savage region.'
But from the top is opened out a magnificent scene of mountains, inclosing
the Vale of Rosthwaite, Seathwaite, and Stonethwaite, and their wild
boundaries. The return from Rosthwaite to Keswick is past the Bowder Stone,
and along the banks of Derwent Water; or it may be by the top of Lowdore
Fall, for the sake of the view of Derwent Water, Skiddaw, &c.
{marginal = Thirlmere}
THE WEST SIDE OF LEATHES WATER.
{marginal = Castle Rock}
From Keswick the tourist must proceed on the Ambleside road till he arrives
at the end of Shoolthwaite Moss, where he will deviate to the right into a
rugged cart-road. This leads to the foot of the lake, and thence along its
western side, as before described, to Armboth. Cross the lake here, and
pass through the park of Dale Head Hall as far as the main road, whence is
the fine view of Legberthwaite, with Blencathra as its background. Pass
through this rugged valley, affording room for little more than the road
and river, to the rock of St. John's or Green Crag. The approach into the
valley from Threlkeld displays this rock in the most poetical point of
view, and under some states of atmosphere it requires no stretch of the
imagination to transform its grey perpendicular masses into an impregnable
castle, whose walls and turrets
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{continues last paragraph}
waving with ivy and other parasitical plants, form the prison of the
immortal Merlin. Legberthwaite Mill at its foot was destroyed some seventy
years ago by a water-spout, all the destructive traces of which the healing
hand of time has effaced. On the right are the huge, sullen, and severe
crags of Wanthwaite, which for terrific grandeur vie with any in the
district. Immediately beneath them, on a gentle knoll, is the pleasant
mansion of Lowthwaite, overlooking the agreeable vale of Threlkeld. The
river, and bridges spanning its stream in different places, form fine
foregrounds to various charming scenes. Towards the left, on Naddle Fell,
stands the chapel of St. John, secluded from the cheering rays of the sun
during a quarter of the year. The road continues till it meets the line
from Penrith, and so again passing the Druid's Circle, you reach Keswick.
{marginal = Skiddaw}
SKIDDAW
Is less difficult of ascent than the rest of the superior elevations, and
the road from the town is so conducted as to render the way easy either on
foot or on horseback. The views in the ascent are perhaps superior to those
presented from the summit. One of the finest is where Ormathwaite appears
splendidly surrounded by majestic trees, and all the populous and
beautifully-embowered plain extending from lake to lake. A little further
is an exquisite view of Keswick and the lake, with
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{continues last paragraph}
the Borrowdale, Langdale, and Wastdale mountains. On the steepest part of
the road, Derwent Water gradually unfolds and extends itself in its whole
encircling and beautifully-embayed coast, its islands, and its fertile
shores and savage boundaries. Hence also the high mountains of Langdale,
Coniston, Eskdale, Borrowdale, Wastdale, Buttermere, and Newlands, are
observed in an arrangement superior to their appearance from any other
point. There are seven distinct tops or heaps of stone, which should be
visited in succession by the pedestrian: most of these present interesting
and varying views, but the chief elevation is deficient in not allowing a
sight of Derwent Water. The grand and extensive prospects embrace five
different ranges of mountains: First, Grizedale, rising from the enclosures
of Braithwaite. Second, succeeded by Barrow and Stile End. The third range
rises from the fields of Newlands, and terminates in Causey Pikes and
Grasmire. The fourth in this wild combination, includes Cat Bells,
Hindscarth, Robinson, and Red Pike. The fifth and last, is that sublime
chain extending from Coniston to Ennerdale. In the distant sea is
observable the Isle of Man; the towns of Cockermouth and Workington on the
Derwent; the Solway, with Maryport and Allonby; Ireby at the foot of
Binsey; Wigton and Carlisle; High Hesket and Tarn Wadling; and Blencathra
and Wanthwaite Crags.
The descent will appear to many more pleasing, both as it is easier, and as
it is agreeable to see
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{page = 65}
{continues last paragraph}
every thing resuming their original shapes and just proportions, which they
lose when viewed from such an unusual elevation. The returning symptoms of
life, the hum of bees, the song of birds, and the voice of busy people,
restore tone to the spirits depressed by over much excitement.
{marginal = Saddleback}
BLENCATHRA OR SADDLEBACK.
In order to reach the top of this mountain, it is best to go along the road
towards Penrith as far as Scales, a hamlet six miles from Keswick; here a
bye-road keeps close under the fell, which must be pursued till a
shepherd's green path can be traced, winding up the hill-side. The first
ridge this path reaches, gives a glimpse down into the vale, watered by the
Glenderamaken; thence to the summit it is easy. From Linthwaite Pike, the
highest point, the prospect is open to the north, east, and south. At the
base of an enormous perpendicular crag, called Tarn Crag, depending from
the top, is Scales Tarn, a beautiful circular piece of transparent water,
with a well defined shore, covering an area of three acres and a half, and
being eighteen feet deep. Here you are engulphed in a basin of steeps,
having Tarn Crag on the north, the rocks falling from Sharp Edge on the
east, and on the west the soft turf on which the descent has been made.
From the summit of the mountain you may descend either directly upon
Threlkeld, or by Lile Fell, Priestman, and Knott Crags, to the
Glenderaterra, the stream
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{continues last paragraph}
that flows out of Skiddaw Forest; a bridge crosses the beck, and the path
will conduct you through Brundholm by a pleasant walk to Keswick.
Keswick being the head-quarters for the Cumberland Lakes, there yet remain
many animating excursions for the entertainment of the active traveller.
{marginal = Borrowdale}
BORROWDALE.
Not the least interesting is that into this dale, at the entrance of which
we were in the ride round Derwent Water. At a distance it seems as if all
further progress were staid by a barrier of mountains, but upon approaching
this wall, one mountain corner is found to be set a little past the other,
so that a winding entrance is left; the gorge is straight, the whole width
being occupied by the road and river.
{marginal = Castle Crag}
Within the entrance is Castle Crag, on which tradition says that an ancient
Roman fortification once stood, commanding the pass into Borrowdale. Its
summit commands a view northward of the whole encircling shore of Derwent
Water, with the village of Grange in the foreground, Manesty, Falcon, and
Wallow Crags, being the immediate side screens; Crosthwaite Church and
Flatts bound the lake, the woods of Foe Park rise in the west, Castle Rigg
and Lat Rigg on the east, and Skiddaw shuts off the scene. To the south,
the prospect is into the dale. The Bowder Stone and the wind-
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[wind]ing river are below, the village of Rosthwaite is in front at the
junction of the vales of Stonethwaite and Seathwaite, while Eagle Crag and
Glaramara tower above.
{marginal = Bowder Stone}
The Bowder Stone next arrests the attention, standing on a high bank
overlooking the river Derwent.
'Upon a semicirque of turf-clad ground,
The hidden nook discover'd to our view
A mass of rock, resembling, as it lay
Right at the foot of that moist precipice,
A stranded ship, with keel upturn'd, that rests
Fearless of winds and waves.'
This is an immense fragment of rock, which may possibly at some very
distant period have fallen from the mountains near, and have ever since
remained in its present position. Its dimensions are as follows:- length,
sixty-two feet; height, thirty-six feet; circumference, eighty-nine feet;
mass, twenty-three thousand and ninety cubic feet; and estimated weight,
one thousand nine hundred and seventy-one tons. The appearance of it is not
improved by the ladder affixed to it to enable people to see from its top,
what can be much better viewed from Castle Crag. A slate bench near it,
present a pleasing view into Borrowdale. On the right are Randerson's Band
Rocks; beneath meanders the Derwent, enriching with welcome fertility, the
fields and meadows through which are scattered the dwellings of Borrowdale.
These rich meadows stretch to the borders of the mountains, whose
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{marginal = Rosthwaite}
bases and sloping sides are covered with wood almost to their aspiring
tops. At Rosthwaite, the principal hamlet, is a small inn. The vales of
which Borrowdale is composed diverge from this village, up which the
tourist approaches from Keswick to the north; Seatoller leading to
Buttermere to the west; Seathwaite and over the Stye Head to Wastdale in a
southerly direction; and Stonethwaite to the south-east, which again
separates into Langstreth, leading over the Stake into Great Langdale, and
Greenup leading into Easedale, and thence to Grasmere.
A little up the road from the inn towards Stonethwaite is a splendid view,
the river forming the foreground, and Eagle Crag the distance. The tourist
should not fail to proceed to the point where the grains of Greenup and
Langstreth separate, which he must do by crossing Stonethwaite Bridge. This
makes a picturesque subject, the village composing the middle ground, and
the Hay Stacks the distance; then ascend a little way up the wooded rocks
on the left, by which means he will command a view of both at once, divided
by the towering precipices of Eagle Crag, having Bull Crag directly in
front. The mountains of this dale, clad with oaks and ash, yews and thorns,
almost to their summits, are the loftiest and most beautiful in Borrowdale.
{marginal = Keswick to Wasdale, Calder Abbey, etc}
Leaving Rosthwaite to proceed onwards to Wast Water, whither we shall
pursue our journey, on the left is the neat small chapel belonging to this
dale.
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It is situated at the foot of steep mountains, and was rebuilt in 1706,
Joseph Harris being chapel-warden, as an inscription declares. Further on
is a small bridge over the Seathwaite-arm of the Derwent. The road to the
right leads by Seatoller to Buttermere, which we shall have occasion to
notice afterwards. Seathwaite Bridge and village combine happily with Aaron
End and Sprinkling, which cross the head of the valley, above which Great
End swells sublimely, having on the left Keppel Cove and Hind Crag, and on
the right Bays Brown. Hence may be visited the famous
{marginal = black lead mine, Seathwaite; pencils}
WAD MINE,
Which is in the south-east part of Giller Coom, flanked at its ends by
Seatoller Fell and Bays Brown. It has been opened at different places,
where the wad had probably appeared on the surface. This curious and
valuable substance is met with in masses, often at a considerable distance
from each other, and found with great difficulty in a rock of grey felspar
porphyry. When the mine was first opened, has not been ascertained.
Formerly it was wrought only at intervals, and in such a manner as to keep
up the price of the article; but not being so rich in quantity, and
inferior also in quality, it is now carried on regularly to meet the
increased demand. A house is built over the mouth, where the workmen are
examined every time they leave the mine; but owing to the great value of
the
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wad, the greatest precaution has scarcely been able to keep the miners
honest. The principal owner is H. Bankes, Esq. Its main use is for the
manufactory of pencils, which the artist would now find it a great
inconvenience to want.
{marginal = Stockley Bridge; Sty Head}
After leaving the mine and Seathwaite, keeping Taylor's Gill on the right,
Stockley Bridge will tempt the artist to make a momento of it, and the rest
will also prepare him for the ascent up Aaron, which leads in a zig-zag
course, till it reaches the Stye Head, one thousand two hundred and fifty
feet above the valley. The tarn under Great End Crag is a fine subject for
the pencil. A mile from hence up a runner is Sprinkling Tarn, noted by all
anglers for its trout. Hence
{marginal = Sca Fell; Scafell Pikes}
SCAFELL PIKES
May be most conveniently ascended. The South Pike, which is three thousand
and ninety-two feet in height, is most accessible from Wastdale or Eskdale.
This aspiring pinnacle presents a more sublime and not less
elegantly-varied range of mountains, dales, and sea views, than either
Helvellyn or Skiddaw; a considerable part of the Lancashire, Cumberland,
and Scotch coasts, with the Isle of Man and Snowdon in Wales being visible.
The Pike which is three thousand one hundred and sixty feet in height on
the north peak of the fell, commands a view of Windermere and Derwent
lakes; and, upon the whole, presents a more com-
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{marginal = Mickledore}
[com]plete panorama than any other point. These, though only twelve hundred
yards in a direct distance, are separated by a chasm called the Mickle
Door, costing a distance of two miles' sever travelling to overcome. Very
little or rather no vegetation is to be seen on this fell; rocks, and large
blocks of stone piled one upon another, are the principal features, and the
geographicus lychnicus appears in particular beauty. The distance of
Scafell from any house of entertainment, the rugged ground, and the danger
of being caught in mists, prevent this mountain from being visited by any
but hardy pedestrians, neither would we recommend such even to venture
without a guide.
{marginal = Wasdale Head}
WASTDALE.
The road is cut in a serpentine manner down the side of Great Gable, having
Great End and the Pikes on the left. Over Lingmell Crags, the ground-work
of the Pikes, is seen the deep, confined, and fruitful valley of Wastdale
Head, with its chapel and half-dozen houses scattered upon a plain of
meadow and corn-ground, divided into chequers by stone walls. Beyond,
within a bed of steep rocky mountains of pure, unmixed, impenetrable
sterility, is the long, narrow, stern, and desolate lake of Wast Water, to
the head of which from these houses it is two miles. Refreshment may be had
at any of these very respectable statesmen, and the tourist will not offend
them by offer-
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[offer]ing a sufficient remuneration for their civility and trouble. Near
their dwelling is the humble Chapel of Ease, past which a mountain track
leads under Scafell by Burnmoor Tarn into Eskdale.
{marginal = Wast Water}
WAST WATER
Is three miles and a half long, and three quarters of a mile broad, the
depth is from forty to fifty fathoms, and it is probably owing to this, in
proportion to the extent of its surface, that it has never been known to
freeze. Trout in great quantities, and a few char, frequent its waters. The
chief feeders are Over Beck on the south of Yewbarrow, and Nether Beck on
the north of Middle fell, issuing from tarns near the Haycocks, and running
through Bowderdale. The waters are discharged by the Irt at Ravenglass.
Being a border lake, its end lying in the low country, whilst its head is
nestled in mountains, it appears from the foot to the greatest advantage,
and is under that aspect most distinguished for sublimity. The mountains
are naked to their base, their sides and summits are uniform, shooting up
into lofty points, and ending in pyramidical forms. Looking upwards,
Yewbarrow forms a fine apex; Kirkfell pushes forward its front to the left;
and at the head of the dale, the Gable appears conspicuous. On the right,
Lingmell comes finely forward, over which the Pikes of Scafell reign
supreme. Up the side vale of Bowderdale, is the Haycock; and the
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{marginal = The Screes; Nether Wasdale}
Pillar crowns the head of Mosedale. Middle Fell runs along the margin of
the lake; and on the opposite side are the Screes, which seem going to
decay, their foundation in the water, and their surface and soil being
gone, while immense debris and torrents of rocks and stones cover their
sides. This range of fell prevents a circumambulation of the lake.
Proceeding onwards, a retrospective view of Yewbarrow, the Gable, and the
Pikes, seen over Over Beck Bridge, is a fine picture. From Nether Beck
Bridge the road passes over a rising ground, and from a field in front of
Crookhead, where a beautiful cottage has been built by Stansfield Rawson,
Esq. of Halifax, is one of the finest views of Wastdale Head and Water. At
the Strands, at Netherwasdale, is a comfortable inn, where entertainment
may be had, set off with civility, and enhanced by economical charges.
{marginal = Gosforth Cross; Calder Bridge}
On the road to Calder Abbey, the antiquarian must perforce stop at
Gosforth, which has a remarkably neat church, and in the churchyard a tall
cross of British or Danish origin, sculptured on its four faces with
various figures and devices. From hence, it is a good and pleasant road to
Calder Bridge, where, at either of the two excellent inns, the weary
traveller may rest for the night.
{marginal = Calder Abbey}
CALDER ABBEY.
On the north side of the river, about a mile above the bridge, stand the
sequestered ruins of the
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Abbey; and on the opposite side of the stream are the vestiges of a Roman
encampment. From the Bridge Inn there is a sweetly-wooded walk along the
banks of the stream, which presents several glimpses of the solemn ruins,
the tower rising magnificently out of the massy foliage of the forest
trees, by which it is now enveloped. Ranulph, son of the first Ranulph de
Meschiens, founded this Abbey for Cisterican (sic) monks in 1134; its
revenues at the dissolution amounted only to £64 3s. 9. None of the
conventual buildings remain; Mr. Irwin's house most probably stands upon
their site. The church was of the usual cross form. The south side of the
nave is gone. The west door is good Norman, but plain. The nave consists of
five arches in length, pointed, and the mouldings flat: all this part is
richly covered with ivy. The centre tower stands on four pointed arches,
supported by lofty piers. The east end of the choir is gone; it has had no
lateral lights, but the walls are adorned with long slender pillars and
niches; and on the south side are four circular niches, foliated, one being
pierced as a door. There are the remains of cloisters on the south side,
sufficient to show them to have been beautiful specimens of early English.
There are some old monuments with recumbent figures. The grounds are kept
in excellent order; the greensward is beautiful; and no noxious weeds are
allowed to disfigure the precincts of this once-hallowed shrine.
{marginal = Ponsonby Hall}
A short distance west from the inns, is Ponsonby
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Hall, standing in a noble park on the opposite side of the road, built
about 1786, and remarkable for the elegance and convenience of its
apartments. The gardens and walks on the woody banks of the Calder are
beautiful; and the view by sea and land is extensive. Among many curious
pieces of antiquity brought from Dalegarth Hall, in Eskdale, is a carved
bedstead made about 1345, having the arms of the Austhwaite family
quartered with the Stanleys. The Church stands in the park, and is a pretty
stone building, well paved, and containing some stained glass brought from
Dalegarth.
{marginal = Calder Bridge to Cockermouth and Keswick}
It is usual for tourists to proceed direct over Copeland forest to
Ennerdale Bridge and village, and thence by Lamplugh to Lowes Water; but we
shall endeavour to carry them a more interesting route.
On the right, on pursuing the road, is the white village of Hale; and
before you lies, in a fine agreeable vale, fertilized by the Ehen,
{marginal = Egremont}
EGREMONT,
{marginal = Egremont Castle}
With its ruined castle crowning the northern banks. The heights above the
town conceal beneath their surface a productive iron mine. The bridge over
the river, and the castle above it, form a romantic scene; indeed, the town
and castle, from many points on the Ehen, displays pleasing assemblages of
the picturesque. The castle, situated upon a rising ground, flanked on the
south by the Ehen, was pro-
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[pro]bably built by William de Meschiens, first lord of the barony of
Copeland, to which he was presented by his brother Ranulph, who held
Cumberland and Westmorland under William the Conqueror. Little of it
remains at present. The principal part is the keep. The arch of the
gate-way is the horse-shoe arch, and its groining is by plain
cross-springers. The outward wall has, from its base upwards, ten courses
of herring-boned work. The other arches which remain are three in number,
pointed and covered with ivy. But within these few years, this building has
suffered more from wanton spoliation than from the ravages of time. There
is nothing worth notice in the town; it is small, neat, and clean; the
houses adjoining the market-place have many of them rude colonnades of wood
in front, under which the corn is exposed for sale during rainy weather.
The church, dedicated to Saint Mary, has been much modernized; the east end
is circular in its centre, with flat wings, each containing two pointed
windows, ornamented by a single shaft. The name of Egremont signifies the
'Mount of sorrow:' but it must not be confounded with Wotobank, which is
two miles from the castle.
{marginal = St Bees}
From Egremont it is four miles to Saint Bees; which is a long village
reaching down the side of a ridge into a deep, contracted vale, which
embraces in a semi-circular sweep the bold bluff heads. It is chiefly
celebrated for its grammar-school, and for its abbey.
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{marginal = St Bees Abbey}
ABBEY OF SAINT BEES.
The Abbey owes its first foundation, according to tradition, to a holy
woman called Bega, who came over from Ireland in the year 650. This house
did not escape the barbarous ravages of the Danes, for we find William,
brother of Ranulph de Meschiens, re-establishing it as a cell for a Prior
and six Benedictine monks, dependent on St. Mary's in York. Another great
benefactor was William de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle. Its revenues at the
dissolution were £149 19s. 6d. It was granted to Sir Thomas Chaloner,
of York, but now belongs to the Earl of Lonsdale. The Abbey Church consists
of a nave with aisles, used as the parish church, transepts, and choir,
which has had a south aisle, and is at present fitted up for the Clerical
Institution. The general style is early English, but the west front has a
Norman door of imposing appearance, which is a plain bold specimen of that
style, though much delapidated, from the nature of the stone and exposure
to the sea blasts. The piers, five in number, that support the arches of
the nave, are round, hexagonal, and clustered: this part is spoiled by the
introduction of modern sash windows, quite out of character. The transepts,
from the way in which they are appropriated, cannot well be examined. The
interior arrangement at the east end of the choir is singular; three
beautiful lancets rise from a string, the centre one being higher and
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wider, as is usually the case, and between each are two tiers of niches,
one above the other, having clustered shafts and ornamental capitals, and a
common dripstone runs round the whole. The north side of the choir is
lighted by a series of lancets, having single shafts set on the sides, the
interior shafts being plain, whilst the exterior are filleted. The tower,
which rises at the intersection of the nave and choir with the transepts,
is only a square in height; it has a modern embattled parapet, and a turret
at the north-east angle. The choir and north transept are used as
lecture-rooms for the Clerical Institution, and they are so fitted up as to
prevent you from seeing their correct proportions. The library belonging to
this establishment is not large, but select, and contains a beautiful
full-length portrait of Dr. Ainger, presented by the students. There are
some pretty views of the Abbey and parsonage from the meadows on the south,
and the heights in descending to the village; but the best display of its
architectural features is from the door of the grammar-school of Archbishop
Grindal. The inscription over the door is laconically appropriate,
E. 1587 G.
INGREDERE UT PROFICIAS.
Four miles will carry you from the quiet, studious cloisters of Saint Bees,
into the midst of the bustling and commercial activity of Whitehaven. The
piers and coal-pits are the chief objects of
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notice here. The Earl of Lonsdale has also a large mansion, called the
Castle. The tourist from Dublin, Liverpool, or Glasgow, may land here and
penetrate into the Lakes by way of Egremont, Gosforth, Wast Water, over the
Stye Head into Borrowdale, and thence to Keswick or Ambleside.
{marginal = Ennerdale Bridge}
From Egremont, however, we hasten onwards to Ennerdale, passing through
Cleator, chiefly inhabited by those engaged in working the iron mines. The
Church at this village, owing to its delapidated condition, is to be
rebuilt forthwith. On the right, the river Ehen flows the whole way,
occasionally appearing and disappearing, as it glides through brakes and
bushes of alders and willows in its course from the lake of Ennerdale.
{marginal = Ennerdale Water}
LAKE OF ENNERDALE.
This water is about two miles and a half long; near its foot is half a mile
across, but towards the head it grows much narrower. It is well stocked
with trout and an inferior kind of char. It is much secluded, difficult of
access, and, consequently, rarely seen. The shores are bold and somewhat
savage. The best scenery is between its foot and the side of the hill to
the north, in descending from Floutern Tarn. Tourists generally rest
satisfied with what may be seen in passing the lower end, on their progress
to Buttermere, few liking to extend their journey into the dale.
Pedestrians anxious to explore the recesses of the mountains, may pass
along
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the eastern side from Ennerdale village: the view from How Hall, or Castle
How, anciently the seat of the Patricksons, now belonging to the Senhouses,
embraces the lake between Herd House and Bowness Knott on the left, and
Angling Stone and Anglebarrow on the right, with the Steeple and Pillar
between them. On the Smithy Beck, beyond Bowness, are some beautiful
cascades. A mile and a half from the water is the lonely farm of
Gillerthwaite; whence you may pursue the Liza (once the channel of a
dreadful water-spout) in a course of five miles to its source in Great
Gable, which lies at the head of the valley.
'A mountain-valley in its blessed breast
Receives the stream, which their (sic) delights to lie,
Untroubled and at rest,
Beneath the untainted sky,
Where in a lovely lake it seems to sleep.'
{marginal = Scarth Gap; Black Sail Pass}
On the left, it is possible to pass over the Scarf Gap into Buttermere; on
the right, over the Black Sale, between Kirkfell and the Pillar, into the
head of Mosedale, and thence to Wastdale Head. This water may also be
approached from Buttermere Inn by Scale Force and Floutern Tarn; or from
Scale Hill, through Mosedale, to Floutern Tarn; or by High Nook near Lowes
Water, over Blake Fell, past the west end of Gavel Fell, to the village of
Crossdale. These paths are mentioned rather with a view of informing the
pedestrian tourist what is practicable, than of recommending such to his
notice for adoption.
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{marginal = Ennerdale Bridge}
At Ennerdale Bridge are two public-houses. The chapel is a small fabric,
which was re-pewed in 1786; the thorn hedge which enclosed the
burial-ground was removed in 1825, and a stone wall built: being six miles
distant from the mother church of Saint Bees, it enjoys parochial
privileges.
{marginal = Lamplugh}
The road from Ennerdale by Lamplugh keeps the fells at some distance on the
right, skirting their bases as it leads onwards. The irregular swells and
lofty eminences seen in the immediate neighbourhood, are Blake Fell and
Knockmurton. On the right is Lamplugh Hall, an ancient edifice situated at
the foot of a lofty green hill, with an extensive view north and
north-west. The church is an antique structure, near the principal gate-way
leading to the hall, the residence of the family of Lamplugh, of known
valour in the service of their country, but who became extinct in T.
Lamplugh, who died at Copgrove, in Yorkshire, February 18th, 1783. Four or
five miles further, on the left, but out of the way, is Eaglesfield, which
we notice because once possessed by a family of that name, one of whom,
Robert, was confessor to Queen Philippa, consort of Edward III, and founder
of Queen's College, in Oxford.
{marginal = Cockermouth}
COCKERMOUTH.
This is an ancient borough and market-town at the confluence of the Derwent
and Cocker, which after flowing through Buttermere and Crummock,
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and through the vale of Lorton, loses its name in the elder,
brother-stream. It is divided by the Cocker, the market-place, castle, and
church, being on its eastern side. The two principal streets are spacious.
The bridge over the Derwent consists of two arches, and is two hundred and
seventy feet in length; the Cocker is spanned by one noble arch, one
hundred and sixty feet long. and was built in 1828 at the cost of
£2600. Besides being well watered by these fine rivers, it is
intersected by small rivulets, which is a great convenience to the
manufacturers, who produce cotton checks, ginghams, and coarse woollen
goods. The whole place is very prosperous; the markets and fairs are
numerously attended and well supplied. The borough returns two members to
Parliament, and is also the nomination place for the western division of
the county under the Reform Act, and was anciently the place of election
for the whole county.
The church or chapel of ease, is dedicated to All Saints, and stands on an
eminence at the top of Kirkgate. It has no pretensions to architectural
beauty, but being enlarged in 1825, presents ample accommodation. The tower
contains six bells, and a set of pleasing chimes. The parsonage was built
in 1814 at the cost of £1300, defrayed by the Governors of Queen
Anne's Bounty and the Earl of Lonsdale. The grammar-school in the
church-yard was founded in 1676, by Lord Wharton, Bishop Smith, and others;
a library containing valuable books in divinity is attached to it. There
are also
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alms-houses and charitable societies for different purposes; neither is
that most useful of all wanting, a dispensary. The late Earl of Egremont,
with his wonted munificence, presented the sum of £2000 to the
inhabitants, to be disposed of for the benefit of the town. It has
accordingly been applied in the erection of a convenient and handsome
market-place.
{marginal = Cockermouth Castle}
The castle stands on a bold elevation, strong by nature, between the
Derwent and the Cocker, where it was built soon after the conquest, by
Waldieve, first lord of Allerdale. It forms an irregular square, inclosed
by strong walls, and defended at the entrance by a portcullis, drawbridge,
and moat. On each side of the gate-way leading to the interior court is a
deep dungeon. The south-west front, of which much still remains, stood on
the brink of the precipice above the rivers, where appears to have been the
state-room, and other apartments in the great tower. Under this tower is a
vault thirty feet square, lighted by a small grated window, and approached
by a descent of twelve steps, the roof upheld up by a single octagonal
pillar, which branches out into ribs supporting the groining. This castle
was kept in repair till the civil war, when it was reduced by the
Parliamentarian forces and dismantled; since then it has lain in ruins,
with the exception of the gate-house and the court-house at the east angle,
which are kept in repair for the occasional residence of the lord of the
manor. There is a bowling-green within
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the walls. The gate-way tower is ornamented with the arms of the
Umfranvilles, Multons, Lucies, Percies, and Nevilles, for to all these
families this fortress has by turns belonged; the main body is covered with
ivy, and with the walls and other towers forms a good study. On the margin
of the Derwent is a plain of considerable extent, in which is a public walk
beautifully terminated by lofty cliffs, covered with trees - at the other
by the ruins of the castle impending over the river, whose opposite banks
are diversified by tillage. Indeed, the country round the town is
pleasantly varied with hill and dale, wood and water. The Globe is the
chief inn, and is most respectably conducted. The Sun and the Apple Tree
inns may be mentioned.
{marginal = Papcastle}
Before leaving this town, the village of Papcastle, crowning the ridge on
the northern banks of the Derwent, should be visited. Many of the houses
are genteel and commodious; but above the village is the site of a Roman
Castrum, where a great variety of coins, urns, inscriptions, and remains of
baths, have been found. It subsequently became the seat of the first lords
of Allerdale, before they transferred themselves to the more advantageous
position occupied by Cockermouth Castle.
{marginal = Bridekirk font}
As Bridekirk is only two miles distant, the antiquarian tourist ought to
spare time for the purpose of inspecting the rare and curious Font in the
parish church.
The new road from Cockermouth to Bassen-
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[Bassen]thwaite lies through the cultivated vale of Embleton, stretching at
a short distance in a direction parallel to that through which the Derwent
flows. There is nothing very interesting for a few miles, till the
traveller obtains a view of the lake, with the lordly Skiddaw looming over
it, his head most probably graced with a tiara of clouds. After descending
a hill, the road winds through a narrow dale, with moderate eminences on
either side clothed with wood, till it reaches the water's edge: at this
point there is spread out before the eyes a sweet view of Armathwaite Hall,
the residence of Sir -- Vane, with its trees, single or in clumps,
sprinkled over the sloping lawns, the rising grounds behind enrobed with
forests, and the silvery lake filling the middle of the picture.
{marginal = Bassenthwaite Lake}
BASSENTHWAITE WATER
Is four miles in length, and in some places almost one mile in breadth.
Lying on the edge as it were of the mountain district, it is not viewed
with the same interest as the others, being less in magnitude and inferior
in beauty and grandeur. It has no islands. Its western side is bounded by
the Wythop Woods and Lord's Seat, which approach close to the water's
brink. Its eastern side is indented by several pretty bays and
promontories, as Bradness and Scarness, which present excellent views, and
rich cultivated grounds occupy the space between the margin of the lake and
the lofty Skiddaw with
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his Dodd; on the south are the flats irrigated by the Derwent, its main
feeder; and on the north are the beautiful park-grounds of Armathwaite Hall
with Binsey behind. Pike and perch are its principal fish, and salmon pass
through to deposit their spawn in the Derwent.
{marginal = Wythop Woods; Haws}
The road passing through the woods of Wythop, which are too thick and
umbrageous, though affording here and there partial views of the lake and
Skiddaw, we should recommend going round the foot of the lake, and passing
by its eastern side to Keswick. The tourist must ascend the road as it
rises up the hill, leading towards Ireby, and when immediately above the
Haws village, he will have the whole vale below on the right hand, a scene
of rich cultivation waving with the golden harvest, the lake stretching
along, gleaming and flashing under the dark woods of Wythop; houses,
hamlets, woods, and the far-spreading landscape, fading away in the blue
mountains heaped together about the head of Derwent Water. This is a view
for beauty, grandeur, and magnificence, which has not its superior. From
the same point, looking westward, a different prospect is beheld, one
almost entirely rural - the vale of Embleton divided from the vale of
Derwent, and each swelling out into eminences scarcely aspiring to be
hills, and adorned with joyful crops, laughing under the ripening beams of
a glowing sun. The descent is rapid down to the Haws, a village watered by
a stream called White Water Dash, and issuing from the north side of
Skiddaw. The bridge is uncommonly pictu-
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{marginal = Millbeck}
[pictu]resque, and indeed the artist may here enrich his portfolio with
several choice studies. A chapel of ease is placed here, totally devoid of
a single charm. Follow the higher road of the two, to Keswick, because its
elevation gives a greater command over the details of the valley, and a
peep of the lake. You come into the low road, where a branch leads off to
the church, which is old and was built about 1471, on the margin of the
lake, not far from the promontories of Bradness and Scarness. On the direct
road to Keswick, on the right, is Mirehouse, the seat of J. Spedding, Esq.
enveloped in woods. The upper end of Bassenthwaite has been said to bear
some resemblance to the Lake of Como. It may be worth while to divert to
Millbeck, which is situated on the left in one of those deep gullies in the
front of Skiddaw. Derwent Water is seen from it to great advantage, with
some pleasing foregrounds that are not always to be had, at least such as
are suitable and appropriate. Hence to Keswick the return is through the
open vale. From the stone stile leading over the fields, the church, with
the Newlands mountains behind, is a pleasing object.
{marginal = Keswick to Buttermere}
The next ramble we shall take is not so extensive, and is comprehended
within the last, like a small circle in a larger, touching only at the
common point at Keswick.
Passing over the same ground, then, till he reaches Rosthwaite, the
observant tourist will discover many new objects to amuse that had escaped
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{marginal = Seatoller}
his notice on the former occasion, even if the weather should produce no
alteration in the aspect of the scenery. From this village, instead of
proceeding on to Seathwaite, we shall turn sharp on the right up to
Seatoller, a small hamlet seated on the mountain's side, in a recess,
filled with oak, ash, birch, and larch. From a picturesque wooden bridge,
appears in retrospect the mountains at the head of Watendlath and Wythburn,
Rosthwaite, Camcoom Head, and Glaramara. The top of this road, which is not
passable for carriages, is eight hundred and eighty feet above the Derwent.
{marginal = Honister Pass; Honister Crag}
On the right is Yew Crag Quarry: on the left that stupendous precipice,
Honistar Crag, rises sheer out of the valley to the height of one thousand
six hundred feet, on which are extensive blue-slate quarries. The river
that runs through to the lake - 'in light and clouds it has its mortal
birth' - is as wild as the valley itself, having no banks but such as are
formed of fragments of rocks - no bed, but a channel composed of rocky
strata, among which the water forces its course. Lower down is a view of
Buttermere, with High Street and High Crag in the distance. The sheep
farm-house and others called Gatesgarth, stand at the end of Honistar Crag,
half a mile from the head of the lake, which is here seen under the Hay
Stacks, High Stile, and Red Pike, with the wooden bridge between Buttermere
and Crummock, and the inn. From this hamlet are several fine views of the
Lakes. Hasness is on the banks of
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Buttermere, whence it is a mile to the inn, which is more closely and
deeply entrenched in mountains than any other.
{marginal = Buttermere}
BUTTERMERE
Is a mile and a quarter long, half a mile broad, and about fifteen fathoms
in depth. It is situated in a valley of its own name, and is encompassed by
superb rocky mountains. Buttermere Moss and Robinson bound it on the east;
the Hay Stacks, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike, on the west; and the
north end or outlet is separated from Crummock Water by a fertile plain of
meadows.
The chapel of ease is a small ancient building, scarcely capable of holding
more than two score souls. 'A man must be very insensible who would not be
touched with pleasure at the site of this chapel, so strikingly expressing
by its diminutive size, how small must be the congregation there
assembled,as it were, like one family; and proclaiming at the same time to
the passenger, in connection with the surrounding mountains, the depth of
that seclusion in which the people live that has rendered necessary the
building of a separate place of worship for so few. The edifice is scarcely
larger than many of the single stones or fragments of rock which are
scattered near it.'
{marginal = Scale Force}
Scale Force is often visited from Buttermere. From the inn there is a
foot-path, but over very swampy ground; it is, therefore, better to take a
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boat and row down Crummock Lake about a mile; on landing, a rugged path
brings you to it.
'It springs at once, with sudden leap,
Down from the immeasurable steep,
From rock to rock, with shivering force rebounding,
The mighty cataract rushes.'
This is the deepest fall, the water being hurled downwards in one clear
leap of one hundred and fifty-six feet, next, in another forty-four feet.
The chasm into which the waters sink, is from twelve to twenty feet in
width, and is between two walls of sienite, beautifully covered with trees,
which have fixed their roots in the interstices, whilst the sides are clad
with a profusion of plants. The coolness and dampness are very great, and
will soon warn the tourist from this stupendous scene.
{marginal = Crummock Water}
CRUMMOCK LAKE
Is three miles in length, three quarters of a mile in breadth, and
twenty-two fathoms in depth. This lake abounds in trout and char, and
receives its main supply of water from Buttermere, from which it is parted
by low flat meadows, that are little more than half a mile in breadth.
Melbreak rises abruptly on the west side; Rannerdale Knott forms a bold
promontory projecting from Buttermere Hawse, which advances up to Grasmire
and Whiteside, that close it on the east. Its waters flow out by the Cocker
under a pretty bridge. It has three small islands, one a rock, the other
covered
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with wood, but being too near the shore, they add nothing to its beauty.
{marginal = Buttermere Hause}
The best general views are from Buttermere Hawse on the east, and from the
road between Scale Hill and Lowes Water. But the mountains of this vale,
and those at the head of Newlands, are nowhere so impressive as from the
bosom of this lake, some of the loftiest rising from its very margin. The
middle part of the lake presents the utmost grandeur. In passing along the
eastern side of this water to the inn of Scale Hill, after leaving the
hamlet of Langthwaite Green, the tourist has a fine view of the rural and
cultivated vale of Lorton, with the Cocker winding its way along a rocky
channel, sparkling with numerous cascades, between banks fringed with wood.
The vale is about three miles in length, bounded by lofty mountains, and is
a parochial chapelry under Brigham.
{marginal = Scale Hill}
Scale Hill is a commodious inn, where boats may be had, and from whence
Lowes Water may be most conveniently visited.
{marginal = Lowes Water}
LOWES WATER
Is a narrow lake, extending more than a mile in length, and from five to
ten fathoms in depth. It is tame at its head, the water being bordered with
little cultivated estates, the dwelling-houses in the centre, and the green
enclosures lying around; but when viewed in the contrary direction, it
presents a magnificent assemblage of mountains at its outlet,
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where its waters flow out, passing the Hamlet into Crummock Water. The
mountains that lie around are high and rocky, rising abruptly from their
bases, and assuming conical forms. The declivities are covered with
brushwood and scattered trees, adding greatly to the romantic and
diversified scenery of the country.
The stranger may proceed to Cockermouth through Lorton, or return by
Whitehaven, or retracing his ground to Buttermere chapel, pass through
Newlands.
{marginal = Whinlatter Pass}
The road over Whinlatter presents some grand views of Bassenthwaite and
Derwent Water, Grisdale Pike keeping you company on the right for some
distance. On the top of the road, Thornthwaite village and Jenkin Hill,
flanked right and left by Longside and Dodd, and Thornthwaite Fell, with
Bassenthwaite Water overtopped by Binsey, is the first prospect that stops
you. A little further on, Derwent Water, with Vicar's Island, Lord's
Island, the Isthmus, and Keswick, are seen lying beneath Wallow Crag,
Falcon Crag, and Bleabury Fell; over which rise Skiddaw, Saddleback, Mell
Fell, Wanthwaite Crag, St. John's Dodd, Stybarrow Dodd, Styx, and
Helvellyn. The road proceeds through Braithwaite to Keswick.
{marginal = Newlands Valley}
NEWLANDS.
The road through Newlands leaves the chapel of Buttermere, and advances by
a very steep and
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{marginal = Newlands Hause}
long ascent between Robinson and Whiteless Hill. These mountains present
nothing but endless grassy slopes, which is the characteristic of the
scenery all the way till you get down to Keskadale, the first houses in
Newlands. The views in this valley are chiefly of a rural description,
adorned with all the beauties of luxuriant nature, and decorated with wood.
The mountains are beautiful and picturesque in their forms, generally green
to their summits, looking down upon comfortable houses, seated amid
enclosures of emerald verdancy, irrigated and refreshed by gentle streams,
now lost amidst the luxuriant growth of leafy trees, now betraying
themselves by their bright sparkling. On the right, a fine branch of this
vale extends to Dale Head, guarded on the south by Maiden Moor and High
Crag, on the north by Goldscope and Hindsgarth. At Stony Croft Bridge the
road turns on the left to Cockermouth; and at Stair Mill is the way to
Newlands chapel, which is under Crossthwaite. A rude bridge here forms a
picture with Causey Pike. The traveller will now get a pretty glimpse of
Bassenthwaite, screened by Barrow and Swinside, with Caer Mot in the
distance. Between Foe Park and Swinside is a retrospective view, beautiful
and grand, of Newlands. Through Portinscale we shall again arrive at
Keswick, of which we must now prepare ourselves to take leave.
{marginal = Keswick to Carlisle}
Hence we shall proceed to Carlisle and its neighbourhood, returning through
the vale of Eden to Penrith. The stranger, however, who has not
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time for this lengthened excursion may pass directly to Penrith. The little
deviation on the left, avoiding the barren waste of Hutton Moor for the
purpose of seeing Greystoke Castle and church, will amply repay him: it is
the residence of H. Howard, Esq. to whom it was bequeathed by the late Duke
of Norfolk.
{marginal = Threlkeld; Mungrisdale}
Four miles and a half from Keswick on the Penrith road, is Threlkeld, an
irregular built village, on the south side of Blencathra, with a fine view
up the vale of Wanthwaite; the chapel is dedicated to Saint Mary, and is in
the parish of Greystoke. At Scales, the tourist must turn off under Souter
Fell along the bye-road, not very passable for carriages, though it is
formed on a terrace, and completely overlooks the valley, through which
winds the Glenderamaken; a small stream trickling out of a dreary waste is
seen joining it; its banks are fringed with wood and enclosures, chiefly
corn-fields spotted with farm-steads, and spread a short distance on each
side, overlooked by White Pike; and in the west, the mountains beyond
Keswick rise in majestic array. Souter fell has acquired some notoriety as
having been the scene of meteorological appearances, which were observed
some considerable time back. In an opening between it and Bowscale Fell,
through which the Glenderamaken flows from Scales Tarn, is Mungrisdale,
where is a chapel of the usual oblong form, with a bell-gable and porch:
this is a miserable situation, and seems to be exposed to all the winds of
heaven, being placed exactly
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{marginal = Bowscale; Mosedale}
at the elbow of that mountain mass which comprehends Skiddaw and Blencathra
as its summits, and the Dodd, Carrick and High Pike, Bowscale, and Souter
Fell, as the buttresses. The water-mill, and the green-swelling conical
fells behind, form a pretty enough picture. At Bowscale, in the gorge of
another opening, the road crosses the Caldew, where it issues out from its
birth-place in the wild and solitary regions of Skiddaw Forest, solitary in
all but its abundance of grouse, which is strictly preserved by the Earl of
Egremont, the lord of the manor. Mossdale, where there is a Quakers'
meeting-house, at the foot of Carrick Fell, is not more pleasantly situated
than Grisdale; indeed, the tourist now comes upon a portion of country wild
and desolate in the extreme, yet interesting to the geologist. On the left
is Carrick Fell, its front strewed with immense masses of rock and rivers
of debris which encroach on the way below: on the right is a dismal swamp
of peat-moss, bounded by the heavy uniform ridge of Greystoke Park on the
east side. After toiling over the common for five miles, leaving this
dreary scene, you descend for a mile through a lane bordered with fertile
lands and hedge-rows planted with trees, amongst which the blue curling
smoke betrays at intervals the low-roofed cottages and farm-steads. Almost
at the end of this lane you pass another Friends' meeting-house and
cemetery, placed in a scene of quiet and peaceful solitude. A wild brook
washes across the road, and with the wooden bridge for foot-passen-
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[foot-passen]gers and the little cascade below, is a pleasing feature at
the entrance of the neat little town of Hesket-New-Market, agreeably seated
in the open vale. The Old Hall, much modernized, stands on the right as you
leave the town for Caldbeck.
{marginal = Caldbeck}
This is a large straggling village; the houses seem to have been dropped
down without order or connexion over the wide rambling valley at the foot
of High Pike and Carrick. The church, standing on the brink of the
Caldbeck, is a very ancient structure, dedicated to Saint Kentigern, and
bearing date 1ll2 (sic). On the stream which pours down from High Pike
through this village, is that striking curiosity,
{marginal = The Howk; River Caldew}
THE HOWK,
Which is a deep waterfall in the bed of the river, over which is a natural
bridge of limestone rock. Under this bridge the stream rushes with great
impetuosity, and dashing along over rugged rocks, it empties itself into a
basin boiling in whirling eddies, covered with foam. The intertwining
branches of oak, ash, and hazel, intercepting the sun's rays, throw a dense
gloom over the recess even at noon-day; whilst the long dark weeds and
matted grass hang over the wave-worn rock in rich festoons, interlaced with
bright green ferns. On one side is a deep excavation called the Fairy's
Kettle, the receptacle in time of floods of another cascade that falls
about twenty yards down perpendicular rocks:
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a little to the right of which is a cavern eighteen yards long, called the
Fairy Kirk, in which the noise of the cataract has an imposing effect: this
and the Kettle, which is then filled, are inaccessible at high floods. The
finest approach to this interesting scene is, by permission, up the north
side of the ravine, which is feathered with wood. The bridges over this
water further down, the church, and the rectory, form some good pictures.
{marginal = Warnell Fell}
The road hence leads over Warnell Fell, having on the right the Hall, once
the seat of the Dentons, now belonging to Lord Lonsdale, built on a
hill-side, profusely scattered over with wood, and its base laved by the
Caldew. Welton on the top of the hill, enjoys an extensive prospect of what
is generally allowed to be one of the pleasantest vales in the county, that
of Sebergham.
{marginal = Rose Castle}
ROSE CASTLE
The pedestrian, indeed, might pass down as far as Rose Castle by the banks
of the river, a route that would greatly enhance his pleasure; but the
tourist who possesses the accommodation of a carriage, must be content with
a passing look of the vale as he proceeds along the heights, down which the
road presently descends to Rose Castle, the episcopal seat of the Bishop of
Carlisle. The Honourable and Right Reverend Hugh Percy has nearly
re-edified the whole castle, which, from having been repaired at different
times, according
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to the prevalent taste in architecture, had assumed an appearance
incongruous with its original castellated style. The castle presents a fine
mass of towers built on the north side of the vale, surrounded by hanging
gardens that rise, terrace above terrace, up to the level lawn on which it
stands. The keep, or Strickland's Tower, is a little detached, and
partially covered with ivy. The entrance-hall between Bell's Tower, almost
concealed by creepers, and Percy's Tower, which is quite modern, contains
the grand staircase of carved English oak, the bannisters ornamented with
roses and shields alternately, leading to the chapel and drawing-room. The
chapel is lighted by a row of windows on its south front, and is most
chastely fitted up with oaken stalls and wainscotting. The reading-desk and
pulpit are of the same substantial materials; and across the west end
extends a series of beautiful niches with elegant canopies, under one of
which is the bishop's seat. The dining-room and library are on the ground
floor; the latter is a fine apartment, elegantly and simply fitted up with
oaken cases. The fire-places throughout are all of chiselled stone, richer
or simpler in their designs according to the uses of the apartment. The new
portions were designed by Mr. Rickman, under the immediate superintendence
of the Right Reverend Bishop, to whose intimate acquaintance with
architecture is owing the absence of every thing that could offend the most
correct and fastidious taste. The square embattled towers rise magnifi-
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[magnifi]cently out of the noble forest trees, by which they are partly
surrounded and sheltered. The approach is through an old archway covered
with ivy. The oaks and Scotch firs are splendid, and with the meadows, the
wooded hill, and the distant Fell of Carrick, unite with the castle in
producing scenery rarely equalled for amenity and splendour.
{marginal = Dalston}
Proceeding onwards, Holm Hill is on the right. Not far from it is Hawksdale
Hall, once the residence of Nicholson the antiquarian, who, in conjunction
with Chancellor Burn, wrote a History of Cumberland and Westmorland, which
no subsequent publications have as yet superseded. At Oaks, the tourist
cannot but admire the remaining lordly oak that, with another, gave name to
the house. Here the vale of Dalston opens out to view, presenting a scene
of mixed fertility and desolation, caused by the excessive rapidity and
violence of the Caldew's swollen waters. This village, or rather knot of
villages, is populous, being the seat of busy cotton manufactories. The
church is a plain building, consisting of a nave, chancel, and south
transept. The bell-gable is curious. The chancel has been lately repaired
in the most tasteful manner by the Lord Bishop, who is patron and
impropriator. The walk hence along the wooded banks of the river Caldew to
Carlisle is charming.
{marginal = Dalston Hall}
Following, however, the high road, the only object to be noticed is Dalston
Hall, now used as a farm-house. It has a venerable look of olden times: the
outline is varied with turrets and battlements.
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Just below the parapet is a cornice ornamented with stone cannon, in
imitation of the early invented ones, formed of bars of iron welded
together, or rings twisted. It has long passed from the family of that
name. A fine avenue of trees leads up to it, and commands, from the rising
ground, an extensive and beautiful prospect of Dalston, the vale, the woods
of Rose, and the distant fells. The traces of a Roman encampment are
observable in front. Hence the city of Carlisle is in sight the whole way,
till you enter it by the suburbs of Shaddongate.
{marginal = Carlisle}
CARLISLE.
The limits of this work will not allow of a large and minute description,
but only of such particulars as shall appear to be most interesting to the
lake tourist.
The city has lost many objects of antiquity, and wears as neat, clean, and
stately an aspect, as any within the Borders. It stands on a gentle
eminence in the midst of an extensive plain, watered by the Petteril and
Caldew, which here unite with the Eden, and from their banks as foregrounds
join in pleasing combinations with the distant city. Approach it as you
may, it is seen to great advantage. From the south, after passing through
the suburbs of Botchergate, adorned with the new edifice of Christ Church,
the entrance is between the Court-houses, impressing the stranger with the
not im-
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[im]probable idea that he is entering through the bastions of a fortified
city. The entrance from the west is graced by Trinity Church of Gothic
architecture, while admiration is excited by the Infirmary, a noble Doric
building, and in front frown the ramparts and massy keep of the Castle. The
road from Glasgow approaches the city from Stanwix Bank, where the east or
Newcastle road joining it, they pass into the town over the substantial
bridge crossing the Eden. From the Newcastle road is presented the most
picturesque view: the meadows and woods of Rickerby, the bridges, and over
them the castle and cathedral, are the most striking objects.
The city is well supplied with public walks lying around in various
directions: these the tourist should by all means perambulate, particularly
those on the northern banks of the river, along which passed the Roman
Wall. From Etterby Scar, lying on this side of the river, a mile down the
stream, is perhaps the most extensive and lovely. On the brink of the
precipice the stranger takes his stand. At his feet roll the rapid waters
of the Eden, which he sees forming a large semicircular sweep. Full in
front over a beautiful level tract of meadow, intersected by the Caldew and
partially divided by hedge-rows, lies the city, the long high roof and
square tower of the cathedral crowning its highest ground. The castle, with
its towers, and walls, and buttresses, occupies the whole centre. On the
right are the suburbs of Caldewgate, the church, the canal basin,
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and shipping, with the Infirmary: and over all, far away, are seen the
range of mountains, amongst which we have been so long roaming, Helvellyn
just discernible, Blencathra peeping over the Stack between Carrick Fell
and High Pike, beyond which towers the noble Skiddaw. On the left again of
the cathedral, lies the densest part of the city, in whose serrated ridge
may be distinguished Saint Cuthbert's Church, and the Town Hall, the round
towers of the Court Houses, and the slender spire of Christ Church, in
Botchergate. Over the lengthened bridge is a tract of rich land, sprinkled
with farm-steads and seats; and beyond the woods of Corby, the eastern
fells terminating in the distant but aspiring Crossfell. Nearer at hand,
the high banks are enlivened with the ancient village of Stanwix and the
hamlet of Etterby. By moving into the field behind, and looking in the
contrary direction, the panorama is completed, from Criffel rising in azure
over the long silvery tide of the Solway, which is visible, Burnswark, and
the distant range of Scotch mountains, to the crags, bounding the wastes of
Gilsland and Bewcastle.
{marginal = Carlisle Castle}
The Castle is at the north-west corner of the city, on a bold eminence
overlooking the river Eden. It was begun in the reign of William Rufus,
since which it has undergone many changes, and been the scene of various
historical occurrences. At present it consists of a large area, surrounded
by strong walls, entered through an embattled gateway, in which the
portcullis still frowns, and within
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are various buildings for infantry. An inner area was originally defended
by a half-moon battery, now removed, though the gate-way remains, through
which is the approach to the great keep, at present used as an armoury. The
angular tower in which Mary of Scotland was imprisoned, has, after having
been appropriated to barracks, lately been taken down. This fortress is now
used as the depôt of an infantry regiment, and a small detachment of
artillerymen are stationed to take care of the armoury. There is something
very interesting in its appearance, and it is chiefly valuable as a massy
feature, giving character to the distant appearance of the city.
{marginal = Carlisle Cathedral}
The Cathedral is a noble building, deprived, indeed, of the greatest part
of its nave. What remains is of ever-enduring Norman architecture, with low
round pillars and circular arches; it is now very neatly fitted up as the
parish church of St. Mary. The transepts are narrow, without aisles, and of
the same style; from the south end the cloisters originally extended; the
north transept is used as the consistory court. The choir is supported on
clustered piers, with enriched capitals, from which spring eight pointed
arches; above is an elegant triforium of three openings, and a clerestory,
which once had a rich parapet, pierced with foliated circles, but wantonly
destroyed. The tabernacle work or stalls is of very elegant carved oak,
black with age. The pulpit and throne are modern, and not so rich in
design. The roof is
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vaulted in stucco, with cross springers. The east window is by far the
finest decorated window in the kingdom; it consists of nine lights, and the
head is filled with the richest flowing tracery conceivable; it is,
however, painful to add,that it is in a state of rapid decay. The north and
south aisles of the choir are similar in character, and terminated by
windows of two lights. Beneath the sill of the aisle windows a row of
beautiful niches is continued all round. In the north aisle Dr. Paley lies
buried - a fine mural monument simply recording his name and age. In the
choir, Bishops Law and Smith are interred, both eminent in their
generation. The prevailing style of the choir is early English, the east
end being decorated. The entrance into the Abbey is under an ancient
gate-way, having a circular arch, round which is an inscription purporting
its having been built by Christopher Slee, Prior. Within the precincts are
the deanery and prebendal houses, the fratry, and register office. The
deanery contains, in its square tower built by Prior Senhouse, a fine
apartment used as a drawing-room, whose ceiling is worthy of inspection: it
is of oak, carved in square pannels, the intersecting knots being highly
adorned, and the whole painted in different colours, with armorial bearings
emblazoned on shields, and mottoes scattered about. The fratry or refectory
of the ancient priory is now used as the chapter-room; the south front is
lighted by a row of elegantly-proportioned windows of the Tudor style, the
op-
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[op]posite wall is ornamented with three niches, whose crocketted canopies
are delicately chiselled and supported by slender pillars. In this building
is a curious stone chair, having an impanelled foliated ceiling, called the
confessional. From the Abbey the Cathedral is seen in the best point of
view; a low, square, and embattled tower rises over the intersection of the
cross. The east end cannot be viewed but in pieces: its centre is filled by
the magnificent window, on each side of which rise buttresses with
crocketted pinnacles; the gable is adorned with crosses, and its blank
space filled with a right angled spherical window. The design of this front
is one of grandeur; the great size of the window, the boldness of the
buttresses, and the richness of the crockets, crosses, and finials, unite
in rendering it the admiration of all. The north side of the Cathedral
forms a fine street-scene, with row of trees around its church-yard wall,
which has lately been rebuilt and surmounted by cast-iron rails, the very
elegant design for which was handsomely furnished by R. W. Billings, Esq.
The Church of St. Cuthbert is a plain modern building. Trinity Church, in
Caldewgate, and Christ Church, are new, having been lately built by the aid
of subscriptions from the inhabitants and from the Church Building
Commissioners. The former is of the Tudor, the latter of early English
architecture, and both have spires, rising from square towers, though in a
different manner.
At the head of Castle-street, near the Market-
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[Market-]place stands that excellently-conducted inn and posting-house, the
Crown and Mitre Hôtel and Coffee House, better known by its latter
name. Opposite the Bush Inn, which is also well-known on the road as a
superior posting-house and hôtel, stands the News-room and Library,
built by private subscription, from the designs of Mr. Rickman, who was
also architect for the churches. The County Gaol and Court-houses were
designed by Smirke. One of the circular towers forms the Nisi Prius Court;
the other, connected with the prison, the Crown Court. The prison is on the
radiated plan, the governor's house being in the centre, and communicating
by means of galleries with the different wards. The Infirmary, near the
canal, will repay the walk, besides the fresh views of the town gained in
this direction. It is built on a very convenient plan, and has a centre
portico of four large Doric pillars, supporting a pediment. The merits of
its situation have been a subject of much dispute; but what is still worse,
owing to litigation between the contractor and the building committee,
although finished in 1832, it was not opened for the reception of patients
until nine years thereafter.
The city of Carlisle has a police establishment, is lighted with gas, and
is under the municipal control of a corporation, composed of mayor,
aldermen, and common councilmen. It returns two members to Parliament, and
is now the nomination place for the eastern division of the county.
It is a place of great manufacturing bustle,
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chiefly in cotton, hats, and whips. The cotton trade gives employment to
numbers of persons engaged in spinning and hand-loom weaving. The markets
are well supplied with almost every thing that can gratify the palate of
the gourmand, and rates so low as to render it, in these respects, a very
desirable place of residence for persons of limited fortune, but accustomed
to luxurious indulgences. The Grammar School, founded by Bishop Smith,
affords an opportunity of obtaining an economical English and classical
education. With regard to institutions for promoting the education of the
poor, supplying their necessities, whether in food, or medicine, or medical
attendance, the Infirmary, the Dispensary, and House of Recovery, the
National School, the Lancastrian School, and others, fully attest that
Carlisle is no whit behind the most favoured towns. It is also an excellent
place whence conveyance may be obtained to all parts of the kingdom; mails
daily leave the city for Portpatrick and Belfast, Glasgow, Edinburgh, and
London by way of Leeds and Manchester; besides several other stage-coaches.
The Newcastle and Carlisle Railway offers opportunities four times a-day of
travelling between those places; and from the canal basin, a swift fly-boat
conveys passengers to Bowness on the Solway, whence they can be comfortably
and safely conveyed to Liverpool either by the Royal Victoria or Newcastle
steam-packets, in a single tide.
{marginal = East from Carlisle, and to Penrith}
We shall now proceed from Carlisle in an east-
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{marginal = Crosby; Hadrian's Wall; Kingwater}
[east]erly direction by the military way leading to Brampton: this road
runs parallel to the Roman Wall, which lies rather more to the north or
left hand, along a higher ridge of land. The first village you pass through
is Crosby, whose plain unpretending church stands by the way-side. Two
miles further, at a cross-road, is a Roman Castrum, planted with fir-trees.
Leaving the main road here, and passing down this lane, you will shortly
open upon the circular, rural, and well-cultivated vale, of which
Irthington and its church form pretty features. Round sandy knowes jut into
the plain, watered by Irthing and Kirkcambeck streams, and the surrounding
banks are planted with wood. The nave of the church, which has been
originally larger, is separated from the chancel by a noble Norman aisle,
sadly disfigured, however, by being wretchedly painted in imitation of blue
marble. In this church-yard lies buried Richard Bowman, who lived to be one
hundred and eighteen years old, retaining the use of his faculties to the
last. Hence after crossing the water of Kirkcambeck, the tourist will pass
in front of the elegant and modern residence of Walton House, belonging to
William Ponsonby Johnson, Esq. built on the side of the Roman Casteads
(sic). Several Roman remains dug up at this station are preserved here. A
little further stands the village of Walton, on the line of the wall, as
its name denominates. From hence the road descends to Kingwater, over which
there is a long wooden bridge; this water rises in a dreary waste; its
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banks are fertile, but the ridges which bound it on the north, or separate
it from the Irthing, parallel to which it flows for some distance, are
naked, cold, and uninviting. A sudden turn down the hill, on top of which
the traveller has been proceeding for a mile or two, presents the sweet
smiling Holm of St. Mary. On the right, fine woods clothe the swelling
ridges which die away in the meadows below, in the midst of which, rising
from among majestic elms, are seen the venerable ruins of Lanercost Abbey,
backed by the woods that slope down from the baronial castle of Naworth to
the clear murmuring streams of the Irthing.
{marginal = Lanercost Priory}
LANERCOST ABBEY.
The grey ruins of Lanercost, approached through the remains of a gateway
covered with ivy, stand a little distance from the Irthing on its northern
banks, in the green holms of St. Mary. This Monastery was founded in 1116,
by Robert de Vallibus, for monks of the order of St. Augustine, chartered
in the sixteenth year of Henry II, A.D. 1169, and dedicated by Bernard,
Bishop of Carlisle, to Mary Magdalene.
The church consists of a nave with north aisle, transepts with aisles east
of them, used as monumental chapels and choir. The western front is one of
great beauty and simplicity; a magnificent door, pointed and of many
mouldings, fills the lowest compartment; above it runs a string of
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elegant niches, then seven long tall lancets fill the whole length of the
front, having the alternate ones only pierced for lights; in the gable is a
niche containing a statute of the Virgin and Child, and on each side,
shields charged with the armorial cognizances of the Abbey and the Dacres,
and the top is crowned by the fragments of a beauteous cross. The nave is
fitted up as the parish church, and is lighted by a row of eight clerestory
windows; these have the toothed ornament, the only kind used, which, with
the cornice that runs round the whole building, give a rich appearance to
the general plan of the exterior. The low Norman tower rising about a
square in height above the roof, is supported by massive angular piers. The
transepts and choir are unroofed, and suffered to go to decay. The opposite
sides of the choir are different in their architecture, and the transepts
respectively partake of it. Tall circular piers, with only the clerestory
windows above, is the disposition of the south side; whilst the north has
low massive circular piers, and a triforium as well as clerestory. The east
end is lighted by two tiers of lancet windows, three in each; this and the
south side are now profusely covered with ivy and mountain ashes;
wall-flowers wave over the other parts, and diffuse their fragrance in the
air. There are several monuments in this part of the church belonging to
the Dacres, to whom the Abbey lands fell at the dissolution, and to the
Howards, their successors. Two of the monuments belonging to the Dacres are
under ogee
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canopies, and ornamented with quatrefoils and shields of arms. The Howards
are more gorgeously decorated with all the insignia of armorial blazonry.
Unfortunately little care has been taken of these splendid tombs; the long
dank grass, and weeds and moss, are fast defacing these proud memorials of
the haughty barons, once lords of this beautiful domain.
The cloisters run parallel with the south side of the conventual church,
and have been connected with it. The groining is early English, with cross
springers diverging from a row of piers running up the middle, and from
pilasters on the sides. The dormitory which was above, is now a garden, so
that there is a constant dropping and dampness below. There are some Roman
antiquities which have been found in the neighbourhood, preserved here. Of
the remainder of the conventual buildings, we may observe a square tower,
with square mullioned windows, three stories in height, which was erected,
or at least considerably repaired, in the sixteenth century, by the bastard
Dacre for his residence. Another tower, with the Tudor flower in the
cornice, forms part of the residence of the present aged curate of
Lanercost. In the church-yard is the recumbent effigy of a knight, having
the hands clasped on the breast.
This Abbey forms fine pictures from the grounds of Naworth and the
surrounding woods. The best near view is from the corner of the area in
which it stands, under the wide-spreading elms; hence the
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west front, the north side, and north transept, are presented, conveying an
idea of magnitude and grandeur to the beholder, which no other point of
view gives. The east end with the north transept again, is another noble
picture from amidst the numerous tombs of the church-yard.
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There is a decent inn at the bridge, where refreshment may be procured.
From the bridge, which crosses the river by two bold arches, a public
carriage-road leads through the park to
{marginal = Naworth Castle}
NAWORTH CASTLE.
Here, however, we should recommend the carriage to be sent up to the
Castle, while the stranger pursues the banks of the Irthing by a footpath
which leads to the right from the river up a deep ravine, whose steep sides
wave with aged woods. The oaks are splendid, and the grey turrets and
battlements of the Castle, seen in combination with them, impress the mind
with feelings of solemn grandeur.
A short distance in front of the keep is a circular bastion or barbican.
The keep stands a little in advance of the main body of the Castle, and
over the archway are carved in bold relief the armorial bearings of the
family. The Castle forms a complete quadrangle, the front being an extended
curtain, battlemented, and connecting the two square and lofty towers at
the angles. Having entered this through a small passage, you stand in the
court-
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{marginal = Belted Will}
[court]yard, and those who have visited Cambridge or Oxford will be struck
with its resemblance to some of the college quadrangles. On one side a
flight of steps leads to the long ancient hall, in which are a succession
of portraits of the English kings, and some rude wooden armorial emblems
brought from Kirkoswald Castle, besides figures clad in plate armour, one
in that belonging to Lord William Howard. The chapel is in another angle;
its ceiling is adorned with the genealogical tree of the Dacres and
Howards. Both the hall and chapel are lighted with perpendicular windows,
whose mullions are embattled. The state drawing-room and bed-room, with
their tapestried walls and decaying furniture, show the poor comfort that
the nobles of old times enjoyed, compared with what even poor people
possess at present. The gallery is enriched with a few portraits, and
several good specimens of ancient armour. But the chief objects of
curiosity are the apartments of Lord William Howard, which are entered
through a small door-way, strongly barred by a massy iron door, having the
pannels filled with oak, and strengthened with a couple of bolts of
corresponding dimensions. One person at a time only can enter; then the
stair-case winds spirally up to the oratory and study, similarly protected,
and thus rendering the access still more difficult. His bed is still
preserved, but sadly tattered and torn by persons anxious to possess some
memorial of Belted Will, the severe but salutary scourge of a race of bold,
reckless, murderous
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{marginal = border reivers}
moss-troopers. His books, at least some of them, remain to show what his
studies were in those intervals, which his important and busy and watchful
situation as Lord Warden of the Marches allowed for such peaceful,
soul-soothing pursuits. The ceiling is of massy oak, in plain intersecting
pannels. The dungeons below are arched and without light; the rings still
remain to which men, whose fierce untamed nature could not otherwise be
subdued, or taught that there was neither honour nor glory in such wild
raids and burnings, were chained and treated as the wild beasts of the
forests. And the tourist will happily think how blessed he is, that his
line has been thrown upon quiet waters and in such peaceful times, and
under a constitution that both wills and enables every man to sit under his
own vine, and eat with thankfulness the labour of his own hands. There are
other apartments which are kept for the Earl of Carlisle and his family,
whenever they visit this part of their possessions. The Castle is situated
on the tongue of a precipice, surrounded on all sides by deep glens, except
the front, from which the park extends up a gradually-rising ground, so
that to the spectator approaching from Brampton it appears very low.
Hence the tourist may pass to Gilsland Spa, which is further up the vale,
between high banks and precipices, where the river Irthing, emerging from
the desolate heath-clad moors in which it springs, turns westwards into the
pleasant haughs
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of Denton and Lanercost. The antiquarian will prefer travelling from
Lanercost to Gilsland, along the heights of the northern bank, as he will
have an opportunity of examining the Roman Wall, more especially at
Birdoswald, the Amblogana of the Romans, where the mass of the wall is
visible, though its facings are gone.
{marginal = Gilsland Spa}
GILSLAND SPA
Is a place of great resort, and in point of salubrity and natural beauty,
it is far superior to many spas of modern celebrity in the northern part of
the island.
From the Railway Station at Rose Hill, a good carriage-road leads up in a
gradual ascending sweep, passing a beautiful mansion called the Orchard
House, until it reaches the Shaws Hotel, which stands upon an eminence
skirted with fine wood. This hotel has recently been thoroughly repaired,
enlarged, and remodelled, and now presents good accommodation to family
parties and visitors, whether for health or pleasure. From a terrace-garden
in front there is an extensive view, embracing a considerable portion of
the line of the Newcastle and Carlisle Railway, reaching from Greenhead
down towards Naworth Castle.
Behind the hotel is a field with walks and seats, exhibiting various
windings of the Irthing, in its course from the wild fells in the waste.
This field covers the mass of rock strata, at the foot of which,
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and on the margin of the river, the celebrated spa issues into day. The
strata below the surface mould are said to be disposed in the following
order:- First, a course of stratified sandstone, then bituminous shale,
which includes a stratum of aluminous schistus, and next porphyry slate,
beneath which the sulphurated water issues through a leaden tube, enclosed
in a small stone fountain, at the rate of two gallons and a half per
minute. The whole height of the precipice is about 90 feet. The strata are
intersected by two veins, one upon each side of the sulphurated water,
which commencing at the surface, approximate pretty uniformly until they
reach the river, at which place they are about 150 yards distant. These
veins are composed of calcareous spar and iron pyrites, and contain the
above-mentioned strata between them.
This water is remarkably transparent; when poured from one tumbler into
another, it sparkles very briskly. To most palates the taste is very
agreeable, being somewhat accidulous, and it has generally been found to
sit lightly on the stomach. The smell is so strongly impregnated with
sulphur as to extend to the distance of several yards. It was originally
known by the name of the Holy Well, also by that of Wardrew Spa, the latter
name being taken from the tenement and farm on the Northumberland side of
the water, and which appears to have been, at one time, the only original
place of entertainment. The present mansion was erected in 1752, and is a
large and elegantly-
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[elegantly-]finished place, though now in a state of great delapidation.
These waters may be employed either externally or internally in a diversity
of diseases, with great success. There are hot and cold baths fitted up in
the immediate contiguity of the spring, and also at the hotel. In drinking
the water no other precaution or preparation seems necessary than that of
commencing with moderation. Time and experience have proved its virtues;
and during the last century up to the present time, it has been used both
externally and internally with amazing success.
The walk from the hotel down to the spa is short, dry in all weathers, and
rather too steep, and will be found inconveniently so on the return by the
invalid, although seats are placed at suitable distances, to render the
fatigue as light as possible. At the bottom of the hill the path is
continued along the water's brink, on a paved terrace to the spa. On the
right, adjoining the river, are some plain buildings for the baths, and
immediately across the water, a number of large stepping-stones enable you
to visit the opposite banks, which are finely wooded, and offer several
interesting views from various open points.
Gilsland is a very favourable station for persons engaged either in
picturesque or antiquarian pursuits. The Roman Wall may be examined in its
course, from the Crags in Northumberland to its entrance at Birdoswald in
Cumberland. Thirlwall Castle, on the Tippal, is within a short walk:
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{marginal = Bewcastle}
Blenkinsopp Castle may be looked at in a tour to Featherstone Castle,
reposing amidst rich haughs ennobled with trees on the South Tyne. Naworth
Castle and Lanercost Priory may also be examined; they lie down the river
Irthing, along the banks of which is a very pleasant bridle road. And the
tourist, who has time and curiosity enough, will reap no little
satisfaction from a ride over the northern moors, passing Triermain Castle
to Bewcastle, where are the ruins of an ancient castle, within a Roman
encampment, and a very remarkable Runic pillar.
{marginal = Brampton; Capon Tree}
From Lanercost or Naworth it is two miles to Brampton, an irregular-built
market-town. Hence to Low Gelt Bridge is two miles, past the Capon Tree,
which has once been a magnificent oak, now venerable in its decay, and
protected by a belt of beech-trees. The High Sheriff usually met the Judges
of Assize here, where they partook of a luncheon under its then spreading
branches. It deserves a place in any collection of remarkable forest-trees.
To Carlisle the cavalcade proceeded at full gallop, owing to the insecurity
of the roads, from their contiguity to the Borders. Up the river Gelt are
the Written Rocks: the precipitous face of a stratum of red freestone has
had a Roman inscription, showing that these quarries have been wrought by
this people, and which is preserved by Horsley, for the antiquarian will in
vain search for it. The walk up this glen, by the side of the river,
through the quarries to Middle Gelt Bridge,
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is splendid; immense masses of rock beetle over the glen, whose sides are
feathered with ash, and beech, and hazel, whilst the river winds its mazy
way between, now in whirling eddies over deep pools, now in foaming
water-breaks over moss-ground rocks. The Railway between Carlisle and
Newcastle crosses the water and ravine by a grand bridge of three arches,
about eighty feet in height, springing from rustic piers, which harmonise
with the scenery in the most effective manner.
Through the very neat village of Hayton, it is about four miles further,
along a good country road, to the village of Great Corby, near which is
{marginal = Corby Castle}
CORBY CASTLE,
The seat of P. H. Howard, Esq. M.P. The building has been so much altered
by the addition of two new fronts in Grecian style, as no longer to wear
the appearance of a Castle. It stands upon the brink of a lofty precipice,
overhanging the Eden, which is seen from the lawn in front flowing down
with a divided stream, between two high banks profusely clothed with
umbrageous woods, the village church and priory gateway of Wetheral
crowning the western receding sides. The walks through the park carry the
visitor for a mile along the edge of impending rocks, adorned with several
noble specimens of oak, then turning down to the water's edge, bring him in
a circuit back to the house. from a wooden seat about half-way in the
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{marginal = Newcastle and Carlisle Railway}
return, there is a romantic peep across the water, through an opening in
the trees, of the cells of St. Constantine, excavated in the front of the
precipice, forty feet above the raving flood below, and overhung by steep
towering crags, overshadowed with trees, amid which the gnarled branches
and roots of aged oaks are seen fantastically twisting forward. From the
Templetto, a small Grecian edifice, neatly fitted up, and the wall painted
in fresco with Swiss scenery, is a rich view of the house at the extremity
of a green vista, whose sward, shaven close and smooth, sweeps upward
between ivy-clasped oaks, sycamores, noble pines, and majestic Scotch firs.
Advancing by this mossy carpet, which stretches along the margin of the
river, the magnificent bridge for the Railway greatly enriches the
prospect, extending from cliff to cliff; the river rolls away under five
lofty arches, eighty feet in span, and ninety feet above its surface. The
walks that extend along the banks to the north of the Castle present
superior views of Wetheral, but they are reserved for the private use of
the family. The interior of the Castle is elegantly fitted up, and contains
a collection of paintings. The grounds are open to strangers on Wednesdays
only.
At the foot of the village of Corby, another noble bridge of seven arches
crosses a narrow glen. The late Mr. Howard formed a new approach to his
residence, which passes through beneath the centre arch of this viaduct.
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{marginal = Wetheral}
WETHERAL
{marginal = River Eden}
Is on the western banks of the river, and is a pleasant village with a
charming green, at the distance of four miles from Carlisle. The church is
a neat edifice of the perpendicular style, consisting of a nave with aisles
and clerestory windows, and a chancel with north aisle, the burial-place of
the Howards. A modern tower stands at the west end. In the chancel, on a
table monument having its sides adorned with foliated circles in squares,
lie the mutilated effigies of Sir Richard Salkeld, knight, and his lady,
the ancient possessors of Corby, from whom that manor passed by purchase to
the present proprietors. The monumental chapel of the Howards contains that
masterpiece of Nollekins', his monument to the first lady of the late H.
Howard, Esq. She was daughter of Lord Archer, and died in giving birth to
her first child. She is represented as half-reclining on the tomb, the
infant lying across her lap, and an angel in a stooping posture directing
her upturned gaze to heaven. Further description is needless: tender minds
will always feel themselves sensibly affected by the contemplation of a
fate so melancholy, and that will be increased by the view of it,
pourtrayed as it is here in so touching a manner.
The walks along the western banks are perhaps as fine as those on the Corby
grounds. The woods are equally interesting, the rocks as precipi-
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[precipi]tous and more richly adorned with mosses, and the paths, if not so
trim, are more in keeping, and lead by natural windings through copsewood
and flowering broom, golden-blossomed whins, and tangled briers.
{marginal = Wetheral Safeguards}
WETHERAL SAFEGUARDS.
The Caves of St. Constantine, or Wetheral Safeguards, may be explored. They
are three in number, deeply excavated, and protected by a breastwork of
masonry, in which is a fire-place and three small lights. There is now a
wooden gallery, by which they are rendered accessible: formerly they were
approached by a dangerous path from the bottom, and gained by a ladder,
which was afterwards drawn up. Tradition says they were originally the
retreat of an ascetic of the name of Constantine; but it is far more
probable that they were formed by the monks of the priory, as places of
safety in which to deposit their plate, vestments, and relics. Since then,
they have undoubtedly been devoted to the same purposes by the inhabitants,
as safeguards in the disturbed state of the Borders.
Further on is a summer-house, generally called the Folly, which presents a
view of unrivalled magnificence. Far below, the Eden foams and thunders
over its rocky channel, which here pursues a serpentine course; on either
hand steep banks arise, hidden beneath the dense foliage of the Corby
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and Wetheral woods. In front stands Corby Castle, and far away the blue
highlands of the Borders. Returning back along the summit of the woods, you
come to the small and interesting remains of
{marginal = Wetheral Priory}
WETHERAL PRIORY,
Which was founded by Ranulph de Meschiens in 1088, for eight monks, and
dedicated to the Holy Trinity, St. Mary, and St. Constantine. It was a
dependent under the abbey of St. Mary's in York; on its dissolution, it was
granted to the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle. Nothing is now left but the
gateway, a square embattled tower of English perpendicular architecture.
Over the very obtuse arch of the gateway is a watch-room, having on each
side a small arched cell with slit-holes, commanding the approach north and
south. The rest of the site is occupied by farm-buildings.
The tourist may proceed up the river to Armathwaite on either side; we
would, however, recommend him to cross the water again to Corby, and go
from that village up the hill, passing the lodge of the Castle. On the
summit of the hill, let him stop and take a farewell retrospective view. At
the bottom of the hill is Corby, amongst its smiling gardens, and orchards,
and noble woods; stretching across the glen are seen the majestic Roman
arches of the Viaduct; the middle ground occupied by the rich holms that
extend as far as Warwick Hall, its
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{marginal = Warwick Bridge}
village and church crowning the left banks of the ground that descends with
its hedge-rows down to the river, which, though invisible, skirts it the
whole way. Below the ancient church of Warwick is the newly-built bridge,
and more to the right is the busy manufacturing village. On the extreme
right, where the fells decline into the plain, the white turrets of Edmond
Castle and the tower of Hayton church are discernible. and that mass of
smoke marks the locality of Brampton. In the front distance are scattered
numerous seat-houses, marking the line of the military road from Carlisle
to Newcastle; and beyond, the blue distance terminates in the uplands of
Nichol Forest and the wild district of Bewcastle, backed by the heath-clad
hills in the neighbourhood of Langholm.
{marginal = River Eden}
The road leads through an extensive wood, and past the village of
Cumwhitton, from about five miles. The Eden flows at a short distance
through winding vistas, where water, wood, and rock, holms, and sloping
banks, combine to produce scenes rarely equalled, never surpassed, but
seldom seen by strangers, and therefore comparatively unknown. After a
rather dull road, you are presented with it rolling down to you from
Armathwaite past the pleasant mansion of Low House. The road as a
foreground, the river skirting its rocky and wooden banks on the left, its
meadows and haughs on the right, with the blue smoke curling upwards from
Armathwaite, sheltered by the Cooms and Baron Wood, and
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through the opening the distant range of mountains, of which the highest
point, Helvellyn, is visible, form altogether an exquisite landscape.
{marginal = Armathwaite}
ARMATHWAITE
May also be reached by a direct and better carriage-road leading to it from
Wetheral, along the west side of the river Eden. It lies on both sides of
the river, which is crossed by a bridge of three bold and graceful arches.
The Castle is a plain square tower, standing on the river's bank, fitted up
so as to meet the wants and comforts of modern refinement. The chapel of
ease is a rude picturesque edifice, in the patronage of the owners of the
Castle, and incumbency of the Rev. W. Hudson. On the eastern side is the
elegant rural retreat of J. de Whelpdale, Esq., of Bishopyards, Penrith,
surrounded by lawns, and protected by some fine plantations. An interesting
walk through an avenue of flourishing larches, leads for a mile along the
margin of a rapid eddying stream to the salmon leaps, where the Eden pours
over a rocky wear (sic), and forming part of the great whinstone dyke,
which crosses the island, stretching across its whole breadth. Above, the
water forms a deep, still, lake-like scene, rocks shoot up perpendicularly
out of it, and the immense masses of the Cooms and Baron Wood cast over it
a deep gloomy shade:
'Awful scenes, that calm the troubled breast,
And woo the weary to profound repose.'
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{page = 126}
{continues last paragraph}
Hence the road leads up a very long and steep hill, on the top of which is
an extensive view of the neighbouring country: two reaches of the Eden form
a bright silvery crescent, brilliantly contrasted with the almost endless
woods around, backed by the dark heathy ridge of Blaze Fell. The road then
descends more gradually, till it arrives at
{marginal = Nunnery Walks}
NUNNERY,
{marginal = River Croglin}
Where the Croglin, a mountain stream, joins the Eden. The grounds on this
side of the stream belong to H. A. Aglionby, Esq. M.P. whose house is a
heavy red pile of building. The walks on that side formerly belonged to L.
Ross, Esq., of Staffold Hall, a neat cheerful-looking mansion immediately
forward; but the property is now included in that of Mr. A. It may, we
think, be safely asserted that the Croglin, in this last part of its course
for the space of a mile, during which it pours along a deep ravine, has no
equal. It first enters this savage dell by a fall of forty feet, forcing
its way through a cleft into a deep caldron, scooped out of the rock, in
which the water is agitated and whirled around in boiling eddies, till it
finds an escape by a narrow opening in one corner, whence it rushes down
several leaps, foaming over the large masses that hinder its impetuous
progress. The rocks are piled on each other up to the height of one or two
hundred feet, projecting their bold fronts forward over the river, 'here
scorched with lightning, there with
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ivy green,' or grey with aged lichens and mosses. On the south side, the
path is carried round the protruding masses of rock on rudely-framed
galleries, supported by rough timbers, thus affording the best and most
striking views, because the rocks and woods on the northern side, which are
the grandest, are seen to the best advantage. At one time you are on the
margin of the water, beneath overhanging crags, the brook before you
rushing furiously over moss-coloured fragments and stones, forming cascades
of exceeding beauty, whilst the trees waving in the breeze, reveal the
shaggy rock that supplies their roots with scanty nourishment. At another,
you are on the brink of the precipice, looking down into a dense mass of
wood, out of which the twisted branches of the rift oak, stripped of their
bark, 'toss their giant arms amid the skies,' contrasting with the deep
green behind, while the water is betrayed by its sparkling sheen and
softened roar.
The Eden also presents some magnificent views, but the Croglin must ever be
considered the chief attraction. This sketch, though not adequately
describing this most romantic of streams, may give the tourist a faint idea
of what he has to expect; for the most glowing description would fall short
of the original. It would be as difficult to transfer the clear
distinguishable depth of its shadows, the sea-green colour of its
transparent waters, and the flashing light playing upon its precipices and
dense foliage, to the canvas. In a small building are
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some monumental remains of the Aglionby family. The site of the Nunnery is
now marked by a pillar of masonry, standing on the hill above the present
house.
{marginal = Eden Bridge}
Beyond Staffold Hall, on the road-side, is a white farm-house, called
Prospect Hill, from its commanding a view of Kirkoswald and the surrounding
country. The Eden runs through a more open and expanded vale; fertile holms
and rich corn-fields adorn the banks of the this clear-flowing stream,
which is crossed by the bridge of Lazonby, a village straggling up the hill
on the west side. Over Kirkoswald are the woods of Little Salkeld, with
Cross Fell in the distance.
{marginal = Kirkoswald}
KIRKOSWALD
Is an irregular-built market-town, crowning the ridge of a hill. The most
interesting objects are the Church and Castle. The Church is an old
building, consisting of a nave, aisles, and porches, north and south, and a
chancel. It is built at a little distance from the town, under a hill-side,
a noble avenue of sycamores leading to it. A copious spring of pure water
issuing out in the Church, runs through the whole length, and emerges into
day at the west end. The style is late Norman or very early English, with
many modern alterations. The belfry, containing two bells, stands on the
hill above; for, otherwise, their sound would be inaudible in the town. On
the east side of the town,
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{marginal = Kirkoswald Castle}
on high ground, stands the Castle; the ruins are very scanty; the angle of
what was once apparently been a high tower, and the ground thrown together
in irregular heaps, now grown over with grass, are all that remain. A
branch of the Northumberland Fetherstonhaughs is seated at the College in
this town.
About three miles further, after traversing a pleasant road between fine
hedge-rows and noble trees, we arrive on a black moor, where our eyes are
greeted with the sight of
{marginal = Long Meg and Her Daughters}
LONG MEG AND HER DAUGHTERS.
'A weight of awe not easy to be borne,
Fell suddenly upon my spirit, cast
From the dread bosom of the unknown past,
When first I saw that sisterhood forlorn:
And her, whose strength and stature seem to scorn
The power of years - pre-eminent, and placed
Apart to overlook the circle vast.'
The road passes through the midst of the circle, as also does a wall,
forming the boundary of the common, thus injuring the effect of this mighty
monument of British superstition. The stones, sixty-six in number, are of
various sizes, some lying hid amidst the herbage, others standing erect,
and forming a circle three hundred and fifty paces in circumference. On the
south side, without the circle, stands Long Meg, a large upright stone,
about fifteen feet round, and eighteen feet high, of unhewn freestone,
which seems to have been brought from Lazonby Moor, all the rest being a
kind of
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whinstone. Within the circle, near Long Meg, four of them form a square;
and towards the east, west, and north, two stones of greater magnitude are
placed at a much wider distance than the rest. On the east the hills
terminate in Cross Fell; on the west, Helvellyn, Mell Fell, and Blencathra,
are visible above the near ground, which is composed of wild heathy
commons.
{marginal = Litte Salkeld}
The road leads down the common to the village of Little Salkeld, on the
banks of the Eden, where Robert Hodgson, Esq., has his residence, seated
amongst pleasantly-wooded grounds, interspersed with agreeable walks
leading along the banks of the water, and in some places scooped into
caves, affording cool retreats.
{marginal = Langwathby}
At the village of Longwathby the tourist will cross the Eden by a good
bridge of five arches, built in 1636. The church is parcel of the vicarage
of Edenhall, which is a mile and a half further, and three miles and a half
from Penrith.
{marginal = Edenhall}
Edenhall is the beautiful mansion of the Musgraves, lately rebuilt of white
stone in a style of classic elegance. The rounds around it slope gently
towards the river, and are highly adorned with wood variously disposed. In
the hall is preserved a very curious and beautifully painted
drinking-glass, in an ornamented case: this is the 'Luck of Edenhall.' The
church, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is a singular and beautiful fabric; it
has a low tower with machicholated battlements, and contains several marble
monuments of the Musgraves;
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the windows also have some good pieces of painted glass in them.
We shall now, leaving behind the sweet-flowing Eden, quickly reach the
market-town of
{marginal = Penrith and excursions}
PENRITH,
Vulgarly called Perith, an ancient, respectable, and well-built town,
consisting chiefly of one long street, at the junction of the roads from
London and Manchester to Glasgow. The houses, built of stone, are generally
plastered and whitewashed. In 1807 the town was much improved by the
removal of the market-cross, shambles, and moot-hall; and the south
entrance from Appleby has lately been widened and carried by a gentle curve
out of the town, instead of by a narrow, crooked, and dangerous road, as it
formerly was. The markets and fairs are well attended, and rank high as
marts for agricultural produce.
{marginal = Giant's Grave}
The parish church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a large structure, rebuilt
in 1722, by a rate and subscription: the tower, which contains a set of
very sweet chimes, is ancient. In the churchyard is a curious relic of
antiquity, called the Giant's Grave, consisting of two large pillars, ten
feet in height, and distant fifteen feet from each other in the direction
of east and west, having the space between them partly enclosed on each
side by four large thin stones. Near them is another pillar named the
Giant's Thumb, but it is six feet in height. The
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{marginal = Penrith Castle}
ruins of the Castle are on the west side of the town: it is thought or have
been built about the end of the fourteenth century, during the reign of
Edward IV, and was once the residence of Richard of Glo'ster. It was
dismantled in the civil wars. From the remaining parts of the walls, the
Castle seems to have been a very strong and spacious fortress, with the
usual accompaniments of dungeons. On the north side of the town is the
excellent race-course, furnished with a grand-stand, built in 1814.
Horse-races and stag-hunts are held in the autumn, and attract a large
concourse of spectators. At the George inn is a spacious assembly-room, and
at the Crown a news-room, which, with libraries, form a fund of amusement
for the inhabitants.
{marginal = Penrith Beacon}
Above the race-course, on the point of a wood-embowered hill, stands the
Beacon, which the traveller may visit for the purpose of seeing from a
moderate elevation the country lying around, and thus forming a correct
idea of the relative situation of places of interest. To the north, Cross
Fell is the most conspicuous object, nor can the Pikes of Dufton escape the
eye, with the range of mountains reaching from east to west of Carlisle.
Stainmore and the heights of Wildbore Fell, towards Kirkby Stephen, fill
the east. On the south are Lowther and Brougham, with their teeming plains
and luxuriant woods; and the circle on the west is enriched with the town
of Penrith and the rural vale of Eamont, overtopped by Skiddaw.
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Many pleasant and picturesque walks are in this neighbourhood; and, within
five miles, are Lowther Castle, Brougham Hall, Eden Hall, Dalemain,
Greystoke Castle, Hutton Hall, and Ulles Water.
{marginal = Eamont Bridge; Arthur's Round Table; Mayburgh; Brougham Hall}
A pleasant road leads to Eamont Bridge, so picturesque an object that it
ought to be transferred to the sketch-book of every artist. Turning
immediately to the right is Arthur's Round Table, on the banks of the
stream, an amphitheatre twenty-nine yards in diameter, surrounded by a
ditch and mound. To the west of it, on the right of the road to Pooley, is
Mayburgh's Mystic Round, a hill, on the summit of which is a circular
enclosure, one hundred yards in diameter, formed by pebble stones, having
in its centre a column of unhewn stone eleven feet high, and twenty-two
feet in circumference. Antiquarians have hazarded several but
unsatisfactory conjectures, as to the uses of these mysterious structures.
They are evidently of British origin, and to be classed along with such as
Long Meg and the Keswick Circle. Following the Shap road till you arrive at
the Lowther, on a finely-wooded eminence, on which it is perched like a
nest, is Brougham Hall, the seat of Lord Brougham and Vaux. It is a lofty
and aged pile, having a long front to the west, with an embattled parapet,
and a terrace extending north and south: the windows of the Hall are filled
with stained glass. The shrubberies and pleasure-grounds are extensive, and
laid out with taste. On the high road, a little
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{marginal = Clifton}
further on, is Clifton: its old hall, now a farm-house, is a turreted
building. The moor is famous as having been the scene of an engagement
between the Highlanders and the Duke of Cumberland, to which allusion is
made in Waverley. From this pleasant village extends the walk to the
Countess' Pillar, a lofty and handsome stone obelisk, erected by the good
Countess of Pembroke in 1656, to commemorate her parting with her mother,
the countess dowager; it is adorned with dials and armorial quarterings. On
the return is
{marginal = Brougham castle}
BROUGHAM CASTLE,
On the site of the Roman Brovoniacum, at the confluence of the Eamont and
Lowther, where many Roman remains have been found. The present Castle is
Norman. The first Roger Lord Clifford built part, as appears from an
inscription - 'This made Roger.' In 1651 the countess re-edified it, after
it had lain in ruins from 1617. The entrance is by a machicolated gateway
and tower, and a short covered way leads to an under gateway with
iron-grated gates. The Dongça;on, a stately edifice of excellent
masonry, rises from the midst of the area: within this is a vault, the
groined roof of which is supported by a single octagonal pier. The outward
and inner gateways are both vaulted with common arches, and have been
defended by portcullises.
These ruins, standing on a tree-clad eminence
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at the junction of two pretty streams, wear a venerable and majestic
appearance, and are, as a whole, a conspicuous and romantic object in every
approach. The return is by the London road, which here crosses the Eamont
by a new bridge, erected on the site of one washed down in the great floods
of 1822.
{marginal = Askham}
Lowther Castle and Hawes Water are most usually and conveniently visited
from Penrith. The tourist must go on as far as Eamont Bridge, and then turn
direct to the right towards Yanwath, the old hall of which wears a very
castellated look, towering out of the old ancestral trees, and standing on
the south bank of this beautiful stream. The guide-post will direct him to
the left; and having traversed five miles, he will arrive at Askham, a good
village in a pleasant situation, opposite to Lowther Park. The hall is an
oblong turreted building, either rebuilt or greatly enlarged in 1574, as
appears from a curious inscription over the door. It was in 1828 converted
into the rectory for the parish. The church is a small edifice, dedicated
to St. Peter, having a large chapel belonging to the hall. Cross the river
to
{marginal = Lowther Castle; Lowther Park}
LOWTHER CASTLE AND PARK.
The Castle stands in a park of six hundred acres, on the east side of the
delightful vale of Lowther. The building was begun in 1802, and its general
form is pyramidal, the wings adorned with turrets
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and towers, rising up to an immense square tower occupying the centre. The
north front is four hundred and twenty feet in length, having before it a
rampart, forming a semi-polygon, flanked by circular bastions at the
angles; below there is a large area enclosed by a parapet wall, with a
covered way, and bastions at the corners. At the entrance is a porter's
lodge, with a double gate and postern, and in the centre a large gateway,
guarded by two strong octagonal towers. The south front forms a remarkable
contrast to this, being built in the decorated style, with pointed windows
enriched with tracery and niches; the cloisters also give additional
interest and effect to this side. A lawn of velvet smoothness and emerald
green, shut in by trees of the loftiest growth, stretches along this front.
The interior of the Castle is fitted up with correspondent taste, oak being
very plentifully used. The staircase, which ascends in the central tower,
is magnificent. A beautiful flower-garden is separated from the park by a
sunk fence, and from the south front several walks wind away to Lowther
Terrace, through groves of forest trees. Below, the river Lowther pursues
with gentle stream its devious course, through flowery meads and beneath
the leafy foliage, sometimes betraying itself by its glittering stream,
sometimes by its noisy babblings. The view from the great central tower is
extensive, being shut in by Skiddaw, Helvellyn, St. Sunday Crag, and other
distant mountains.
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The tourist who has complained of the deficiency of magnificent
forest-wood, will here, at least, have found no reason to renew his
complaints, and, indeed, scarcely during any of the latter part of the
tour. The princely residences of the nobility are scarce in the north
country - the halls of the gentry are not numerous - and the lands being in
the hands of statesmen, who are in general mere agriculturalists, they look
upon wood as exhausting the fertility of the land.
{marginal = Bampton}
At Bampton, the Lowther is joined by the stream which issues out of Hawes
Water. This is a village placed on both sides of the water. The church,
vicarage, and grammar-school, are on the south side of the vale. The road
through this valley is amidst green enclosures and pretty lanes, bordered
by wild roses, and honeysuckles, and copse-woods, which beguile the way
till you reach the lake.
At Bampton is a free-school, which has produced many great scholars,
especially Edmund Gibson, Bishop of London, and the late Judge Wilson.
{marginal = Hawes Water}
HAWES WATER,
Belonging to the Earl of Lonsdale, is a less Ulles Water, undefiled by bad
taste. It is three miles in length, and generally half-a-mile in breadth,
abounding in perch, trout, eels, and chubs. The eastern side is screened by
pretty wooded rocks, and its western girt by a few cultivated fields,
thinly
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studded with farm-houses, that are sheltered by groups of trees. A
richly-wooded promontory, that stretches from the west side of the lake,
appears to cut it into two: a little beyond is Fordingdale Beck, presenting
some beautiful cascades, and the grand assemblage of mountains at the
lake-head, in the noblest point of view. Branstree, Harter Fell, with its
ridgy projection, Riggendale, High Street, Kidsty Pike, which has two
points, and is low in the middle like Saddleback, and Whelter, stand around
its head, and send down the trickling streams and silvery cascades to feed
this interesting water. The views, indeed, in passing up, are a composition
of magnificence and sublimity, as seen from the carriage-road in the most
favourable manner; the scenes looking down the lake, form a striking
contrast - all is rural beauty and sylvan sweetness.
{marginal = Mardale}
About one mile further from the head of the lake stands Mardale Chapel,
which is under Shap; it is a wild solitary region, surrounded by lofty
mountains and fells. Near this, in former days, there stood 'a simple
cottage among rocks, woods, and solitary mountains; it bore on its varied
roofs and numerous gable-ends the marks of former centuries; its owners had
lived there in succession for many generations. A few paces took them to
Mardale Chapel, their place of worship, and when they died, their long home
was on their own premises. They were surrounded by woody knolls, and these
kmolls were surrounded by lofty moun-
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[moun]tains. Most of these remain, and will remain. I only regret that the
ancient cottage, with its accompaniments, is superseded by the modern house
with its five windows in front. I should have preferred at Mardale Hill the
ancient cottage with its antiquated windows, its lowly roof fringed with
moss, and its chimneys smoking through the trees, as the abode of quiet and
the home of solitude.' The change here so eloquently lamented has,
unfortunately, too often been the case in numerous other instances, which
the stranger will have been obliged to notice.
The traveller may, by several ways, each exhibiting scenes worthy of
admiration, pass out of this vale. One mountain path leads up Riggendale,
over High Street, and down Troutbeck Hundreds, to Ambleside or Low Wood
Inn,
{marginal = Kentmere}
KENTMERE,
{marginal = Nan Bield Pass; Kentmere Hall}
Or he may follow the course of the stream flowing out of Small Water, over
the pass of Nanbield, then down a steep descent into Kentmere, a narrow
vale, watered by the Kent, which expands into a tarn one mile long,
abounding with trout, perch, and wild ducks, and margined by swampy
grounds. The houses are scattered throughout the dale. At Kentmere Hall, an
ancient tower, that unwearied apostle of the north, and sincere confessor
of the gospel, Bernard Gilpin, some time rector of Houghton-le-Spring, in
Durham, was born. Near the
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Hall stands the chapel, in a burial-ground that was consecrated in 1701.
Hence by Nether Stavely and Strickland Kettle, the road reaches Kendal.
{marginal = Longsleddale}
LONG SLEDDALE.
{marginal = Gatescarth Pass}
Another path leads upwards by a mountain stream from Chapel Hill, between
Harter Fell and Shap Fells, then down by Sadgill into Long Sleddale, and
thence to Kendal, from which place Hawes Water is frequently visited by
this route. The valley is, on the average, half-a-mile in width, and is
intersected by the Sprint rivulet, which runs parallel to the road. From
the bottom, which is covered with a mixture of arable and meadow ground,
hanging woods and rising pastures ascend the sloping sides, terminating in
sheep walks on the mountains. It is divided into small estates, having the
farm-steads at the foot of rising grounds almost every quarter of a mile.
On an eminence, midway, stands the chapel, and near it the school. The most
interesting mansion in the dale is Yewbarrow Hall, having an ancient tower,
whose walls are several feet thick.
{marginal = Branstree}
The last tract, at the traveller's choice, crosses over Branstree, and
through the deep and narrow vale of Swindale, to
{marginal = Sahp Abbey}
SHAP ABBEY,
{continues last paragraph}
Founded by Thomas, son of Gospatrick, who de-
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{continues last paragraph}
[de]dicated it to God and St. Mary Magdalene, endowing it for canons of the
Premonstratensian order. Their revenues, at the dissolution, were
£154 17s. 7d. The Abbey church appears to have been a large building.
The great tower is the only part now standing, but extensive foundations of
buildings were discovered in 1825, on the south side of the Abbey, near
which the pillar of an ancient bridge is till to be seen in the midst of
the river.
{marginal = Karl Lofts}
Near the town of Shap is a stupendous monument, called Karl Lofts, composed
of two lines of huge unhewn masses of granite, enclosing an area of
half-a-mile in length, and from twenty to thirty yards in breadth, having
at its south end a circle of similar stones, eighteen feet in diameter, and
near the north end a square plot of stones, partly covered with earth,
above which, on Skellaw Hill, is a small tumulus. The stones in each line
are some of them three or four yards in diameter; but many of them have
been blasted and carried away for the erection of buildings in the parish.
{marginal = Shap}
The town of Shap, standing on the high road, has excellent inns; and not
far from it, the Earl of Lonsdale has erected a commodious and elegant
hotel, for the accommodation of visitors to the Wells, which have lately
become a place of genteel resort. The high road, in return, passes through
Thrimby and the pleasant village of Hackthorpe, to Penrith.
From Penrith the stranger can proceed by two
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roads to Ulles Water; one along the north, the other along the south side
of the Eamont, both meeting near Pooley Bridge, a hamlet at the foot of the
lake, where the river speeds its limpid way out of it.
{marginal = Dalemain; Dacre; Dacre bears}
The northern road leads past Dalemain Hall, built in the style of
architecture that marks the reign of William III, and seated on the Dacre,
which, rising in the moorish country of Penruddock, flows down a soft
sequestered valley, past the gloomy and monastic Hall of Hutton John and
the castle of Dacre, joining the Eamont in the park. It forms, with Dacre
Castle and Blencathra behind, a grand picture as viewed from this Hall. On
the right, are Dacre Castle and Church. The Castle is now converted into a
farm-house, the moat is filled up, and the outworks destroyed; but the main
building remains in a perfect state, consisting of four towers of excellent
masonry. The church is a neat stone fabric dedicated to St. Andrew; it
contains several monuments of the Hasell family; and on the north side of
the altar-table is the effigy of a knight in armour. In the churchyard are
four remarkable monuments, being the figures of bears, about five feet in
height, sitting on their haunches, and clasping a rude pillar.
{marginal = Pooley Bridge}
The road by the south leads over Eamont Bridge, thence by Yanwath (that
fine specimen of the old Westmorland hall) through Tirril, and past Barton
church to Pooley Bridge, where there is a pretty good inn, affording
accommodation,
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 142a}
{text- plate:-}
{image = FD05.jpg}
{inscription- ULLES WATER.}
{caption- Map and print, uncoloured engraving, Ulles Water, engraved by W H
Lizars, published by Charles Thurnham, Carlisle, and by R Groombridge, 5
Paternoster Row, London, 1843.}
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{page = 143}
{continues last paragraph}
saddle-horses, jaunting-cars, and pleasure-boats. On the opposite side of
the water is Dunmallet, which the tourist cannot but notice, from its
conical figure and its being covered with wood; it was anciently crowned by
a Roman station.
{marginal = Ullswater}
ULLES WATER
Is the largest lake, next to Windermere, in the district, being nine miles
in length and one in breadth. Its average depth is from twenty to
thirty-five fathoms; and its waters abound in excellent trout, and are
crowded with shoals of skellies, a kind of fresh-water herring: a few char
are also found in the lake, and great quantities of eels are taken in the
Eamont, as they migrate from the lake in autumn. The principal feeders are
Grisedale Beck, overflowing from a large tarn, high up between Seat-Sandal
and Helvellyn, and Goldrill Beck, whose waters are the united streams that
pour out of Blea and Angle Tarns. The water is of a zig-zag form, running
as it were into the mountains, the hill-sides plentifully covered with
wood, and rich meadows lying at its foot. It consists of three reaches: the
first or lowest, three miles in length, has pretty sloping banks; the view
up this has, in front, Hallin Fell, with Swarth Fell on the left, and on
the right, the sweetly-situated villas of Rampsbeck, Beauthorn, Lemon Hall,
and the white hamlet of Watermillock. The second reach is four miles long,
having the huge Helvellyn
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 144}
{continues last paragraph}
rearing his crested form in front, with Hallsteads on the long low
promontory, round which the lake doubles - the woods of Gowbarrow adorning
the right - and on the left, Hallin, Birk, and Place Fells. The highest and
last reach is two miles long, spotted with a few rocky islands of small
importance. The steep and rugged front of Place Fell forms its left
boundary, and the precipitous rocks of Stybarrow, oaken-crowned, start up
out of the waters on the right, the crags of St. Sunday, Helvellyn, and
Fairfield, forming the towering distance.
'Turn where we may, said I, we cannot err
In this delicious region.- Cultured slopes,
Wild tracts of forest-ground, and scattered groves,
And mountains bare, or clothed with ancient woods,
Surrounded us; and, as we held our way
Along the level of the grassy flood,
They ceased not to surround us; change of place,
From kindred features diversely combined,
Producing change of beauty ever new.'
On the whole, this water generally stands confessed the most beautiful and
grandest of all, affording the greatest variety of views, in which,
however, the sublime unquestionably preponderates.
{marginal = How Town; Old Church}
In advancing up Ulles Water, we should recommend the south or Westmorland
side of the shore to be taken as far as How Town, where a boat should be in
readiness to carry you across to Old Church, Watermillock, inasmuch as the
views are incomparably finer, both with regard to the foregrounds and the
combinations of the distance.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 145}
{continues last paragraph}
{marginal = Martindale}
This side cannot be pursued to Patterdale but by pedestrians, who after
leaving How Town, penetrate into Martindale, a sequestered spot shut out
from the lake; its one-arched bridge, a chapel with low roof and simple
bell-gable, and a picturesque yew-tree, are romantic objects. At the head
of this dale, where it divides into two grains, is a hunting-box of the
Hasell's. The want of wood here gives interest to the few scattered houses
which are embowered in sycamore. A green path leads to the top of the
western ridge, whence there is a view of the last reach of Ulles Water,
bordered by black steeps - the narrow grassy vale of Bordale immediately
beneath - Penrith beyond - and Cross Fell in the extreme verge of the
horizon. In passing down to Patterdale, several beautiful views are
presented of that dale and of Brother Water, with the heights of Kirkstone.
{marginal = Watermillock}
The carriage-road leads from Pooley Bridge, on the Cumberland side, along
the first reach, which is comparatively speaking tame, having Soulby Fell,
a smooth green hill, on the right. Near the pleasant village of
Watermillock, stood the old church, in a very sequestered bay; the old
church-yard yew-tree still survives. The new church is built further up the
hill-side, and was consecrated by Osbaldistone, Bishop of Carlisle, on his
way to crown Elizabeth. At the extremity of the church promontory stands
Hallsteads, the modern residence of J. Marshall, Esq. Immediately after
passing this, on the left, you enter
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 146}
{continues last paragraph}
{marginal = Gowbarrow Park}
into the grounds of Gowbarrow Hall; and then the Park, in which is situated
Lyulph's Tower, a rude hunting-seat of Henry Howard, Esq., that exhibits
one of the finest views on the lake. The lover of nature may linger here
for hours. A powerful brook dashes through rocks hung with a happy mixture
of natural wood, beds of luxuriant fern, aged hawthorns, hollies, and
honeysuckles; while fallow deer are seen glancing and bounding through the
thickets and over the lawns. The attraction of the retired views, and the
ever-varying fore-grounds, which heighten the beauties of the water, are
not to be described.
'Ah! that such beauty, varying in the light
Of living nature, cannot be pourtrayed
By words, nor by the pencil's silent skill,
But is the property of him alone
Who hath beheld it, noted it with care,
And, in his mind, recorded it with love.'
{marginal = Aira Force}
The explorer of nature's hidden charms must here leave the road, and follow
up the gill above named, till he arrives at Airey Force, where the stream
falls eighty feet between two rugged cheeks of rock,
' ____ Sending
From hollow clefts up to the clearer air
A cloud of mist, that, smitten by the sun,
Varies its rainbow hues.'
A wooden bridge crosses the top of the fall. After it has rested for a
moment in the basin that receives it, making a bend, it rushes down a lower
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 147}
{continues last paragraph}
{marginal = Stybarrow Crag}
steep, at the foot of which another romantic bridge is thrown over the
agitated waters. Altogether the scene is incomparably grand. After
reluctantly leaving the enclosed park, the scenery still continues most
fascinating. The road that passes down the hill on the right, is the direct
carriage-route from Keswick, through Matterdale, a wild and interesting
valley. The horse-road from Keswick unites with this at Dockwray, through
which hamlet, after springing out of Dowthwaite Head, runs the stream that,
in its progress through Gowbarrow Park, forms the noble fall of Airey
Force. On the hill-top there is a magnificent view of the two upper reaches
of the lake, having on the left, Silvery Point and Place Fell, the steeps
of Glenridding, with Stybarrow Crags and Patterdale Hall; and beyond, the
mountains of Graysdale and Hartshope, Scandale Fell, and St. Sunday Crag.
Proceeding onwards, on the right, lurking in a recess, is Glencoin, a
farm-house belonging to Henry Howard, Esq., in a rich cultivated bottom,
with high and splendidly-wooded mountains in the back-ground: the stream
here divides the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland. Hence the road
ascends, and is cut through the crags of Stybarrow, from which there is a
Claude-like view towards the foot of the water. On a grassy promontory
stands Glenridding, the seat of the Rev. H. Askew; the dale opening upwards
to the right, is adorned with fertile fields, cottages, and natural groves,
that agreeably unite with the view of Ulles Water. The
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 148}
{continues last paragraph}
pedestrian may follow up its stream, along bold water-breaks and falls, to
a silent tarn in the recesses of Helvellyn,
'-- From the summit of whose craggy mound
The perching eagle oft is heard to cry,
Or on resounding wings to shoot athwart the sky.'
{marginal = Patterdale Hall; King of Patterdale}
On the right is Patterdale Hall, the former residence of the kings of
Patterdale, but now belonging to W. Marshall, Esq., M.P. for Carlisle. The
stream that rushes down across the road, flows out of Graysdale Tarn,
through a moist green dale, with one single house embosomed in sycamores.
Patterdale chapel stands on one side of the road, with scarcely a single
tombstone in its burial-ground, its noble tree, the solemn yew, adding
dignity even to the hallowed ground.
'These dalesmen trust
The lingering gleam of their departed lives
To oral records and the silent heart -
Depository faithful, and more kind
Than fondest epitaphs; for, if that fail,
What boots the sculptur'd tomb?'
A little further is the excellent inn, where every accommodation may be had
for viewing this sublime nucleus of dales, and where a day or two should be
spent for such a purpose. The water should be navigated, the recesses of
the dales explored, and Helvellyn ascended. No one, not even the transitory
visitor, should omit to walk to Blowick, which may be done while dinner is
preparing. It has still
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 149}
{continues last paragraph}
its land-locked bays, and its rocky promontories, though deprived of all
its wood - thus displaying all its charms at once, instead of unfolding
them in delightful succession.
Leaving the inn, we shall proceed up the dale. On the right is Deepdale,
which is terminated by a cove, a craggy and gloomy abyss, with precipitous
sides, the receptacle of the snows of Fairfield. On the left, the road
leads to Low Hartshope, a romantic village, through which flows the stream
from Hawes Water.
{marginal = Brothers Water}
BROTHER WATER.
At Cowbridge is the outlet of this pretty sheet of water, which is situated
in a fertile vale, clothed with wood. On its western side, near the head,
stands the ancient and lowly Hall of Hartshope. This water may be readily
circumambulated, and the views around it are sublime. It is fed by
Kirkstone Beck, and that which rises under Dove Crag, which issues from a
cove richly decorated with native wood; from this recess there is a view
backwards on the gleaming surface of Brother Water, and forwards to the
precipitous sides and lofty ridges of Dove Crag.
{marginal = Kirkstone Pass}
The tourist may proceed over the rocky pass of Kirkstone to Ambleside, or
return to Penrith.
{text- This is the end of the descriptive section; page 150 is blank.}
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 151}
AN
{marginal = Itineraries of The Lakes}
ITINERARY OF THE LAKES,
CONTAINING
A CORRECT DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWNS, VILLAGES, SEATS, AND ALL OTHER OBJECTS
WORTHY OF NOTICE TO THE TOURIST.
{table- }
{header- I. LANCASTER TO KENDAL, BY MILNTHORPE,- 21¼ M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","LANCASTER TO","Miles."
"","",""
"4","Bolton-le-Sands","4"
"2","Carnforth","6"
"6½","Beetham","12½"
"1¼","Milnthorpe","13¾"
"1¼","Heversham","15"
"1½","Levens Bridge","16½"
"1½","Sizergh","18"
"3¼","Kendal","21¼"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Lancaster}
LANCASTER is an ancient town, and the capital of the county-palatine of
Lancaster, beautifully situated on a hill above the river Lune, which falls
into Morecambe Bay, at the distance of seven miles. On the summit of the
hill is the Castle, an imposing structure, built by Roger de Poictou, in
the 11th or 12th century, and enlarged by John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster,
in the 14th. The assizes are held in the Castle, and part of it is also
used as a county prison. The principal public buildings, in and near the
town, are the Town-hall, in the market-place, the Custom-house, the
Assembly-room, the Theatre, and the county Lunatic Asylum, which is capable
of accommodating 300 patients, is perfectly secure, and conducted on an
excellent plan.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 152}
{continues last paragraph}
The trade of Lancaster is very considerable, not only at Glasson Dock,
where the larger ships generally unload but also at the Canal, which is one
of very great extent, and connected with many of the principal towns in the
manufacturing districts. Fairs for the sale of cheese are held here twice
a-year, at which immense quantities are sold. Lancaster is incorporated
under a mayor, aldermen, &c., and sends two members to Parliament.
Population, 12,613; market-days, Wednesday and Saturday; inns, King's
Arms and Royal Oak.
{marginal = Bolton-le-Sands}
Bolton-le-Sands.- In the neighbourhood of this village, the
mountains of Westmorland and Cumberland combine very beautifully with
Morecambe Bay.
{marginal = Carnforth}
Carnforth.- Two miles hence is the remarkable cave, called Dunald
Millhole, into which a brook descends, and runs under ground, until it
breaks forth again at this village.
{marginal = Beetham}
Beetham is a neat village in the secluded vale of the Belo, on the
new road from Lancaster to Ulverstone. The Hall, now a farm-house, was a
large fortified mansion, standing within an area, enclosed by a wall
pierced with loop-holes. The ruins of Hilslack and Arnside towers are not
very distant; they seem to have been erected to guard the Bay of Morecambe.
{marginal = Milnthorpe}
MILNTHORPE, a small but well-built market-town, is situated on the north
side of the Belo, and is the only sea-port in Westmorland, enjoying a share
of the coast trade to Liverpool, Glasgow, and the intermediate ports; it is
in the parish of Hever-
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 153}
{continues last paragraph}
[Hever]sham. An elegant and beautiful chapel, in the lancet style, has
lately been built and consecrated for the use of the inhabitants.
Population, (with Heversham,) 1509; market-day, Friday; inn,
Cross-Keys. Near Milnthorpe, on the left, is Dallam Tower, the
residence of Colonel Wilson.
{marginal = Heversham}
Heversham is a neat village, having a grammar-school, at which
Bishop Watson received his early education under the immediate
superintendence of his father, and a noble church, of which there is a very
striking view in passing. Near this are three pleasant villas - Plumptree
Bank,- Wilson, Esq.; Plumptree Hall,- Pedder, Esq.; and Deepthwaite,-
Bindloss, Esq.
{marginal = Levens Bridge}
Levens-Bridge spans the Kent. The roads to Bowness and Ulverstone,
through the romantic vale of Witherslack, turn off here to the left. A
beautiful foot-path through Levens-Park leads along the wooded banks of the
Kent to Kendal, 5½ miles. Levens-Park, the seat of the Hon. Fulke G.
Howard, is the admiration of every one.
{marginal = Sizergh Castle}
Sizergh Hall on the left.- If the tourist has any penchant for fine
old carved wainscotings, &c., and rooms exhibiting the massive and splendid
style of ancient days, he should by all means turn aside to this remnant of
feudal strength.
{marginal = Kendal}
KENDAL is a flourishing town, being the largest in Westmorland, and is
placed in a very agreeable valley, enlivened by the meanderings of the
Kent. A full description of it will be found at page 19.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 154}
{table- }
{header- II. LANCASTER TO KENDAL, BY KIRKBY-LONSDALE.- 30 MILES.}
"","",""
"Miles.","LANCASTER TO","Miles."
"","",""
"5","Caton","5"
"2","Claughton","7"
"2","Hornby","9"
"2","Melling","11"
"2","Tunstall","13"
"2","Burrow","15"
"2","Kirkby-Lonsdale","17"
"13","Kendal","30"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Caton}
Caton.- Between this village and Lancaster there is a grand view,
from a field by the side of the road, of the fertile vale of Lune, with the
Yorkshire mountains towering high over it.
{marginal = Claughton}
Claughton.- The ancient hall is now, as is commonly the case with
these ancient relics of bye-gone days, occupied by a farmer.
{marginal = Hornby}
Hornby.- On the right is Hornby Castle, the property and possession
of the estates attached to which, have latterly been a source of lucrative
emolument to the gentlemen of the long robe.
{marginal = Kirkby Lonsdale}
Kirkby-Lonsdale.- A small market-town, agreeably placed on the west
bank of the Lune, lying near the verge of Lancashire, and within a few
miles of Yorkshire. The churchyard is celebrated for the fine views which
it commands of the valley. The bridge over the Lune is an admirable and
remarkable structure, narrow, however, and better suited to the times in
which its three ribbed arches were first thrown across the angry and
chafing stream below. The mills are singularly situated, and are used for
different purposes. Although the town has not been much increased, it is
still, in importance, the third town in Westmorland. Popu-
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 154}
{continues last paragraph}
[popu]lation, 1686; market-day, Thursday; inn, Rose and Crown, and
The Dragon.
{marginal = Kendal}
KENDAL.- (See page 19.)
{table- }
{header- III. LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON, OVER THE SANDS.- 21 MILES.}
"","",""
"Miles.","LANCASTER TO","Miles."
"","",""
"3½","Hest Bank","3½"
"¼","Lancaster Sands","3¾"
"9","Kent's Bank","12¾"
"1","Allithwaite","13¾"
"1¼","Flookborough","15"
"1","Leven Sands","16"
"5","Ulverston","21"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Hest Bank}
Hest Bank.- A bathing-place on the edge of Morecam Bay.
{marginal = Lancaster Sands}
Lancaster Sands.- From Hest Bank to Cartmel the Sands are about
eleven miles in breadth, and guides are stationed on them to preserve
travellers from devouring quicksands, deep channels, and the flowing tide,
which twice a-day covers the whole sandy plain many feet deep in water. The
Sands can only be crossed when the tide is out, and should never be
attempted without the guides. The views here are very fine, embracing
the whole coast of the Bay of Morecam, Peel Castle at its entrance, the
Crags of Warton and Arnside on the right, Ingleborough and its buttresses
to the east, and in front, the Westmorland and Cumberland mountains.
{marginal = Allithwaite}
Allithwaite is a village in the parish of Cartmel.
{marginal = Cartmel}
CARTMEL is a small market-town, having an ancient and handsome church.
Three miles hence is a medicinal spring, called Holy Well, much fre-
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 156}
{continues last paragraph}
[fre]quented. Population, 347. Not far from this town is Holker Hall, the
seat of the Burlingtons.
{marginal = Flookborough}
Flookborough was anciently a market-town, by charter of Edward I.
{marginal = Leven Sands}
Leven Sands are fordable at low water, and are about three miles in
breadth. Splendid views are obtained in crossing them, as they are bounded
by the woods of Holker Hall and Conishead Priory, and closed in by a
nucleus of mountains, of which the Man Mountain is the most conspicuous.
{marginal = Ulverston}
ULVERSTON is the capital of Furness, and a flourishing market-town and
port. A new church has lately been erected, and there are several
dissenting meeting-houses. The old church, dedicated to St. Mary, was
enlarged in 1804, and is now one of the handsomest churches in Lancashire.
There is a coach daily to and from Lancaster. Population, 5352; inns,
Sun and Braddyll Arms. In this neighbourhood are Conishead
Priory, the modern mansion of Colonel Braddyll, and Swarthmoor Hall, once
the property of George Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends.
{table- }
{header- IV. EXCURSION FROM ULVERSTON TO FURNESS ABBEY.- 12 MILES.}
"","",""
"Miles.","ULVERSTON TO","Miles."
"","",""
"5","Dalton","5"
"1","Furness","6"
"","",""
"","Return by",""
"","",""
"","Urswick",""
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Dalton-in-Furness}
DALTON, a small market-town, was anciently the capital of Furness. It
consists of one street, ter-
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 157}
{continues last paragraph}
[ter]minated by a spacious market-place, where an old castle, consisting of
a square tower, overlooks the town. In this castle are held the courts of
the liberty and manor of Furness, of which the Duke of Buccleugh and Lord
Beaulieu are lords. Romney, the portrait-painter, was born at a place
called Beckside, in Dalton. Population, 3229; market-day, Saturday.
{marginal = Furness Abbey}
FURNESS ABBEY.- For a detailed account of it, see page 6. [1]
In returning from Dalton, the tourist may take the Urswick road, over
Birkrigg, the top of which commands an extensive prospect of the sea and
the Isle of Man, with the surrounding mountains.
{table- }
{header- V. ULVERSTON TO BOWNESS, BY CONISTON.- 24½ M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","ULVERSTON TO","Miles."
"","",""
"6","Lowick Bridge","6"
"2","Nibthwaite","8"
"8","Coniston Water Head","16"
"3","Hawkshead","19"
"4","Ferry House","23"
"1½","Bowness","24½"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Lowick Bridge}
Lowick Bridge crosses the Crake, which issues out of Coniston Water.
At the separation of the Broughton and Hawkshead roads, there is a very
fine view of Coniston Water, and the mountains about its head.
{page.footnote = 1}
We gladly refer the lake tourist and lover of antiquity to a
newly-published work, entitled 'Furness and Furness Abbey.' The mass of
information here contained, its pictorial and other embellishments, and the
superior excellence of its typography, deserve for it an extensive
circulation, and reflect the utmost credit on its publisher, Mr. D.
ATKINSON, of Ulverston.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 158}
{marginal = Nibthwaite}
Nibthwaite is on the east side, near the foot of the lake, and is a
station affording noble views of the lake.
{marginal = Coniston Water}
CONISTON WATER.- (See page 8.)
{marginal = Waterhead, Coniston}
CONISTON WATER HEAD.- There is here a good inn, situated at the head of the
lake, and backed by some magnificent fir-trees. Here the tourist may stop
for the purpose of making the following trips, which amply repay the delay
they require - vix., (1.) The ascent of the Old Man, and the continuation
thence as far as the Chapel in Seathwaite, returning by Torver; (2.) The
walk into Yewdale and Tilberthwaite; and (3.) The ride or walk round the
lake itself. These excursions will be found described in this work.
{marginal = Hawkshead}
HAWKSHEAD is a neat small market-town, standing in a warm and sheltered
valley, surrounded by the lofty fells of Furness, and is doubtless of great
antiquity, although there is no authentic record of its origin. The Free
Grammar School has been the nursing mother of many eminent scholars. The
beautiful and pastoral lake, Esthwaite Water, may very conveniently be
perambulated from this place, and comfortable quarters may be had at the
Red Lion. Population, 749; market-day, Monday.
{marginal = Windermere Ferry}
The Ferry House is a good inn, delightfully situated on the banks of
Windermere. Horses and carriages pass over the lake by this Ferry. Above
the inn is a pleasure-house, called the Station, whence some exquisite
views are to be had.
{marginal = Bowness-on-Windermere}
Bowness is sweetly situated near the centre of
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 159}
{continues last paragraph}
the eastern shore of Windermere; and from the happiness of its position, is
a great rendezvous of tourists, who find good accommodations at the
White Lion and The Crown. The islands on the lake may be most
conveniently explored from this port.
{table- }
{header- VI. KENDAL TO HAWES WATER.- 32 M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","KENDAL TO","Miles."
"","",""
"4½","Staveley","4½"
"4½","Kentmere Tarn","9"
"5","Small Water","14"
"3","Chapelhill","17"
"1","Hawes Water","18"
"4","Sadgill","22"
"2","Yewbarrow Hall","24"
"3½","Watch Gate","27½"
"4½","Kendal","32"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Staveley}
Staveley, a large flourishing village, situated in a deep and
picturesque part of the vale of Kent, where the Gowel-beck falls into that
river.
{marginal = Kentmere Tarn}
Kentmere Tarn is in a narrow vale, about two miles in length. The
Tarn is one mile long, and cannot be approached except at one point, owing
to the swampiness of its margin. Near it stands the ancient Hall, a tower
building.
{marginal = Small Water}
Small Water is a tarn between High Street and Harter Fell. The
tourist, by following the stream which issues out of it, will soon fall
down to
{marginal = Mardale}
Chapelhill.- Mardale Chapel of Ease, in a picturesque and fertile
situation, surrounded by lofty fells, stands here; and Chapelhill is the
property and residence of the Holmes', whose ancestor came into this
country with the Conqueror.
{marginal = Hawes Water}
Hawes Water.- The western side of this lake may be traversed by the
tourist, as far as agreeable.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 160}
{marginal = Sadgill}
Sadgill.- The return from Chapelhill must be up the hill, having the
stream from Small Water on the right, till a small stream is seen flowing
down into Long Sleddale, which extends hence about six miles. The chapel
stands near the centre of the dale, which is watered by the Sprint.
{marginal = Ubarrow Hall}
Yewbarrow Hall is now occupied by a farmer.
{marginal = Watchgate}
Watch Gate is on the high road from Kendal to Shap.
{table- }
{header- VII. KENDAL TO AMBLESIDE.- 13½ M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","KENDAL TO","Miles."
"","",""
"5","Staveley","5"
"1½","Ings Chapel","6½"
"2","Orest Head","8½"
"1½","Troutbeck Bridge","10"
"2","Low Wood Inn","12"
"1½","Ambleside","13½"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Ings}
Ings Chapel is a neat edifice, rebuilt in 1743.
{marginal = Orest Head}
Orest Head is ornamented by several villas, and commands very noble
views of Windermere.
{marginal = Troutbeck Bridge}
Troutbeck Bridge crosses a rivulet, issuing from the high grounds on
the right, and flowing down the deep and picturesque vale of Troutbeck. The
village, or rather string of hamlets, bears the names of Town-end,
Town-head, High-green, Cragg, and Highfold, and is distant from three to
four miles north by east of Bowness, and south-east of Ambleside. From the
elevated parts of the road above Troutbeck Bridge, splendid views of
Windermere are obtained. The valley of Troutbeck is well worth visiting,
and pleasant walks may be contrived to it from Ambleside, Low Wood Inn, and
Bowness.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 161}
{marginal = Low Wood Inn}
Low Wood Inn, distant from Bowness four and a half miles, is
delightfully placed on the margin of a small bay, from which the head of
Windermere unfolds itself with exceeding grandeur, the woods and lawns of
Brathay Park bounding its receding waters, and backed by the fantastic
outline of the Langdale Pikes, and their neighbouring mountain masses. The
accommodation at this inn is excellent, and it is a good station for a few
days' stay.
{marginal = Ambleside}
AMBLESIDE is a small market-town in the vale of the Rothay, romantically
built on the side of a hill, commanding prospects of the vale, the parks of
Rydal and Brathay, and Windermere. Excellent quarters may be found at the
Salutation, the Commercial, and White Lion inns; and
from its central situation, the town is generally made the head-quarters of
tourists for a considerable time, as many very interesting excursions may
be made from it. Population, 1095; market-day, Wednesday.
{marginal = Windermere}
WINDERMERE.- (See page 24.)
{marginal = Ambleside excursions}
VIII. AMBLESIDE EXCURSIONS.
PLEASANT walks and excursions will serve to engage the tourist for several
days at Ambleside.
{marginal = Stockghyll Force}
Stockgill Force must not be overlooked. Scandale Beck and Sweden
Bridge are delightful evening walks. Wansfell and Skelgill afford prospects
from a moderate elevation, which may be accomplished without incurring much
fatigue.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 162}
{continues last paragraph}
{marginal = Loughrigg Fell; Loughrigg Tarn}
Loughrigg Fell and Tarn are not to be surpassed, the former in its command
of Windermere, Rydal, and Grasmere waters - the latter for the quiet,
pastoral character of the scenery, which it presents to the eye that
delights in simple, unadorned nature.
{marginal = The Langdales}
A more extended excursion generally performed from Ambleside, is that into
Langdale, which may be made partly in carriages, although it is more usual
to effect it in carts, which way will indeed be found the most convenient
and suitable to the roads, as well as enabling the tourist to carry the
necessary creature comforts for a mountain ramble. The traveller may
proceed, first, to Skelwith Bridge, three miles, just above which is the
wild waterfall, called Skelwith Force; then by a road commanding views of
Elter Water and great Langdale, he may proceed to Colwith Force, five miles
from Ambleside. Three miles up Little Langdale, over a slack on the right,
is Blea Tarn, so faithfully depicted in Wordsworth's 'Excursion.'
Descending the hill to the head of Great Langdale, the Langdale Pikes
appear immediately in front, with Bowfell on the left. The conical pike is
called Pike of Stickle, and the broad-headed pike, Harrison Stickle. Great
Langdale is entered at the farm-house of Wall End, whence Bowfell may be
ascended, or Borrodale penetrated, by passing over the Stake. The regular
excursion, however, will bring the tourist down to Millbeck, where he may
see the waterfall of Dungeon Gill. Still descending the valley, he may,
when in view of Elter Water,
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 163}
{continues last paragraph}
turn to the left, and cross the hill by High Close, whence are interesting
views of Windermere and Langdale, on one side, and the vale and lake of
Grasmere, on the other. A road back by Langdale Chapel, will bring him
again to Ambleside, after a circuit of nineteen miles, viz.:
{table- }
"","",""
"Miles.","","Miles."
"","",""
"3","Skelwith Bridge","3"
"2","Colwith Force","5"
"2½","Blea Tarn","7½"
"4","Dungeon Gill","11½"
"4","Langdale Chapel","15½"
"3½","Ambleside, by Rydal","19"
"","",""
{ -endtable}
{table- }
{header- IX. AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK.- 16¼ M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","AMBLESIDE TO","Miles."
"","",""
"1½","Rydal","1½"
"3½","Swan Inn","5"
"2","Raise Gap","7"
"1½","Wythburn Chapel","8½"
"2¾","King's Head Inn","11¼"
"4","Castle Rigg","15¼"
"1","Keswick","16¼"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Rydal Water}
Rydal Water is one of the smallest of the lakes, but very beautiful
from its wooded islands and shores, which give it an air of great
seclusion.- (See page 41.)
{marginal = Rydal Hall; Rydal Mount}
Rydal Hall has been converted into a large staring mansion, from the
interesting and picturesque form of the old Westmorland hall. In the
grounds are two beautiful cascades, extremely pretty as garden scenes.
Rydal Mount is the residence of that contemplative, philosophic, and
soul-subduing poet, William Wordsworth, Esq.
{marginal = Grasmere}
GRASMERE is a mile beyond Rydal, and is surrounded by an amphitheatre of
mountains, from any elevated situations on which, and wherever
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 164}
{continues last paragraph}
chosen, romantic views may be obtained of this most lovely vale and its
green-enamelled lake, with the fine old church and the white-washed houses
shining out from amidst their wood-girt enclosures. The Swan Inn
stands by the road-side, and a little distant on the left, near the church,
is the Red Lion. Both these inns will afford sufficient
accommodation for a tourist, disposed to journey into the hidden beauties
of this and its auxiliary vale of Easedale. On the left, in passing up this
valley, the traveller will observe a lofty conical hill; it is called Helm
Crag. The summit is composed of vast rocks, in whose forms fancy has
discovered the resemblance of a lion and a lamb.
{marginal = Dunmail Raise}
DUNMAIL RAISE is a large cairn, now marking the boundary line between
Westmorland and Cumberland: tradition ascribes it to the memory of a
British king of that name, who was here defeated and slain in battle by
Edmund I. of England. A little beyond this dreary and wind-swept pass,
there is a view, forward, of the cold and forbidding vale and water of
Wythburn, bounded by the sloping sides of Helvellyn and Seat Sandal on the
right, and by the Borrodale fells on the left, with Skiddaw closing in the
view to the north.
{marginal = Wythburn}
Wythburn Chapel.- Opposite to this is the Horse Head Inn, the
half-way house between Ambleside and Keswick. A guide may be obtained here
for ascending Helvellyn, which is most accessible hence.
{marginal = Thirlmere}
Wythburn Water, known also as Thirlmere or Leathes Water, is a
narrow and deep lake, divided
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 165}
{continues last paragraph}
into two by a wooden bridge and piers. The lower end of this water ought to
be visited, and a pleasant, agreeable tour may be made from Keswick, by
approaching it along Shoolthwaite Moss, keeping up its western side, under
Raven Crag, as far as Armboth House. Here crossing the lake, pass through
Dalehead Park into the public road; thence through Legberthwaite, having
the castle rock of St. John's on the right, to Threlkeld, and so to
Keswick.
{marginal = King's Head, Legburthwaite}
King's Head is a decent house of entertainment, situated in
Legberthwaite, a vale which comprises as much pastoral beauty, enclosed in
as much stern and wildly-magnificent scenery, as any in the district. A
little beyond this, the picturesque bridge of Smalthwaite spans, with a
single arch, St. John's Beck, in its progress to unite its streams with the
Glenderamaken and the Glenderaterra, after which it is known as the Greta.
{marginal = Castlerigg}
Castle Rigg.- Before arriving here, you pass through the dreary moss
of Shoolthwaite, whence there is a retrospective view of Helvellyn from his
base to his crown. The view from Castle Rigg must be left to speak for
itself.
{marginal = Keswick}
KESWICK, a small market-town between the foot of Skiddaw and Derwent Water.
It may be considered as the capital of the Lakes, and is frequented by a
great number of visitors during the season, who make excursions from it to
the surrounding lakes, valleys, and mountains. It has manufactures of
woollens, black lead pencils, spades, &c.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 166}
{continues last paragraph}
There are two museums, containing many curiosities, and specimens of the
mineralogy and geology of the district. Guides, horses, and boats, may be
obtained for excursions, and all the accommodations for visitors are good.
Population, 2159; market-day, Saturday; inns, Royal Oak and
Queen's Head.
{table- }
{header- X. EXCURSION FROM KESWICK, ROUND DERWENT WATER.- 10 M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","KESWICK TO","Miles."
"","",""
"2","Barrow House","2"
"1","Lowdore Inn","3"
"1","Grange","4"
"1","Manesty","5"
"3½","Portinscale","8½"
"1½","Keswick","10"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Barrow House}
Barrow House is the residence of Joseph Pocklington Senhouse, Esq.
Behind the house is a cascade, 122 feet in height, in two falls.
{marginal = Lodore Falls}
Lowdore Inn.- Close to the inn, in the ravine betwixt Gowdar Crag
and Shepherd's Crag, is the fall of Lowdore, so whimsically described by
Southey. In dry weather, the water almost disappears amongst the jumbled
pile of rocks, over which, when full, it rushes with tremendous impetuosity
and force.
{marginal = Grange}
Grange is a small village, at the entrance of the narrow pass which
leads into Borrodale.
{marginal = Manesty}
Manesty.- Near this place is a medicinal spring; and the
retrospective view over its woods into Borrodale, is magnificent,
especially if seen under the influence of a setting sun.
{marginal = Portinscale}
Portinscale is a small village, near the foot of Derwent Water. Near
it are situated the villas
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 167}
{continues last paragraph}
of Derwent Bay, Derwent Bank, and Derwent Lodge. From the neighbouring
heights may be viewed the lakes of Derwent Water and Bassenthwaite, with
all the finely-wooded and fertile country reaching from Swinside to
Skiddaw.
{table- }
{header- XI. KESWICK TO BORRODALE, RETURNING BY WATENDLATH.- 14 M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","KESWICK TO","Miles."
"","",""
"3","Lodore Inn","3"
"2","Bowder Stone","5"
"1","Rossthwaite","6"
"2","Watendlath","8"
"3","Ashness","11"
"3","Keswick","14"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Lodore Hotel}
Lodore Inn.- Proceeding forward, as in the last route, the tourist
must keep the river on his right hand. The pass presents grand and savage
scenery, the road in many places making such abrupt windings as to appear
occasionally blocked up. The river runs in a deep channel, with rocky
banks, considerably below the road, and the mountains rise on either hand
in rugged and awful precipices. Castle Crag rises up into a bold cone,
crested with wood, almost in the middle of the pass. The Romans, with
military precision, fortified this eminence.
{marginal = Bowder Stone}
BOWDER STONE is a rock of great dimensions, which has probably fallen at
some far-distant period from the crags above. The stone is 62 feet long,
and 36 feet high, its circumference is 89 feet, and it weighs 1971 tons.
from this point a fine view of Borrodale is obtained. The village of
Rossthwaite lies in front, overhung as it were by Glaramara and Eagle Crag.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 168}
{marginal = Rosthwaite}
Rossthwaite.- Near this village is the Chapel of Ease, standing at
the point whence the three vales or grains of this extensive valley
diverge. Whilst here, the tourist should extend his ramble into
Stonethwaite, and return. Refreshment may be had here; and then let the
visitor cross the river behind the inn, and strike right up the fell,
immediately in front. In this ascent the most splendid and magnificent
views open out, which bid defiance to the pen.
{marginal = Watendlath}
Watendlath is a narrow upland glen, through which runs a mountain
stream issuing out of Blea Tarn, lying high up on the lonely fells. A
hamlet, consisting of two or three houses, is sweetly reflected in the
small tarn, the surplus water of which escapes under an extremely rude but
picturesque bridge at its foot.
{marginal = Ashness Bridge}
Ashness.- The tourist must then proceed down the narrow valley till
he comes into the high road round Derwent Water, by Ashness. Above the fall
of Lodore, the view of the lake of Keswick, with the gleaming surface of
Bassenthwaite in the distance, is particularly fine.
{table- }
{header- XII. KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE, THROUGH BORRODALE.- 23 M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","KESWICK TO","Miles."
"","",""
"6","Rossthwaite","6"
"2","Seatoller","8"
"4","Gatesgarth","12"
"2","Buttermere","14"
"5","Newlands","19"
"4","Keswick","23"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Seatoller}
Seatoller is a hamlet in the upper part of Borrodale. A carriage may
proceed as far as this
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 169}
{continues last paragraph}
place; but here begins the ascent of Borrodale Hawse, and the road is so
narrow, rugged, and steep, that cars pass with great difficulty. After
reaching the summit, Honister Crag on the left, and Yew Crag on the right,
come in view. Honister Crag is 1500 feet in height. Passing down a very
rugged path, which crosses the water several times, it leads through a
desolate valley to the hamlet of Gatesgarth, and the vale of Buttermere.
{marginal = Buttermere}
BUTTERMERE is perhaps the most deeply embosomed in mountains, of all these
fairy sheets of water. It is bordered on the east by woods and meadows, and
on the west, by the steeps of High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike. (See
page 89.)
{marginal = Crummock Water}
CRUMMOCK WATER is separated from Buttermere by a small tract of flat
meadow. The head of the lake is beautiful, the middle part grand, and the
foot richly adorned with wood. On the west side of Crummock is Scale Force,
situated in a deep chasm, and the water-falls, at a single leap, 156 feet.
(See page 89.)
The road leads up from the inn by the humble little chapel, between
Whiteless and Robinson, diversified by little of scenery, till the
traveller approaches Keskadale, whence there is a prospect of the smiling
vale of Newlands.
{marginal = Newlands Valley}
NEWLANDS contains several scattered hamlets, and is intersected by a stream
which flows to Bassenthwaite Water. The mountain called Hindscar pushes
itself into the vale with much grandeur. The chapel of ease stands in the
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 170}
{continues last paragraph}
pleasantest part of the vale, near Little Town. (See page 92.)
{marginal = Portinscale}
Portinscale. (See page 56.)
{marginal = Keswick}
Keswick. (See page 51.)
{table- }
{header- XIII. KESWICK TO LOWES WATER, ENNERDALE, AND WAST WATER.- 56 M.}
{header- 1st Day.}
"","",""
"Miles.","KESWICK TO","Miles."
"","",""
"9","Buttermere, by Newlands","9"
"4","Scalehill","13"
"2","Lowes Water","15"
"4","Lamplugh Cross","19"
"3","Ennerdale Bridge","22"
"7","Calder Bridge","29"
"","",""
{header- 2nd Day.}
"","",""
"Miles.","KESWICK TO (sic)","Miles."
"","",""
"3","Gosforth","3"
"4","Strands","7"
"6","Wastdale Head","13"
"2","Stye Head","15"
"3","Seathwaite","18"
"3","Rossthwaite","21"
"6","Keswick","27"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Scale Hill}
Scalehill.- Here is an excellent inn, situated at the foot of the
lake, at which the tourist may arrive, either by the vale of Newlands, or
by the nearer route over Whinlatter, and by Lorton.
{marginal = Lowes Water}
Lowes Water is surrounded by noble mountains, and pours its waters
into Crummock Lake.
{marginal = Lamplugh Cross}
Lamplugh Cross.- Near this is the old Hall of Lamplugh, situated at
the foot of a green hill, commanding an extensive view to the north and
north-west. The church is an antique building, near the gateway of the
Hall.
{marginal = Ennerdale Bridge}
Ennerdale Bridge.- Descending the hill to this place, is Stockhow
Hall, whence there is a pretty view of the fertile vale of Ennerdale, and
of the
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 171}
{continues last paragraph}
lake stretching up to the high mountains. There is a public-house here,
where refreshment may be had.
{marginal = Calder Bridge; Calder Abbey}
Calder Bridge.- From Ennerdale the traveller must proceed over the
bleak fells of Copeland Forest, significantly called Cold Fell, to Calder
Bridge, where are two inns, at which accommodation for the night may be
obtained. A beautiful walk up the river leads to Calder Abbey, a fine
specimen of Norman and early English architecture. Close to the village, in
a spacious park, stands Ponsonby Hall.
On the second day, the tourist must proceed to
{marginal = Gosforth; The Strands}
Gosforth, a large, irregularly-built village, where the antiquarian
tourist will be gratified by the inspection of a tall and beautifully
ornamented pillar, which stands in the churchyard, on the south side. From
this village, two roads lead to Wast Water - one directly to the left, over
rising grounds, which brings you immediately to the lake; the other is by
the Strands. Here are two good inns, about a mile and a half below the foot
of the lake. At Crookhead is a very picturesque cottage.
{marginal = Wast Water}
WAST WATER.- The principal approach to this lake is that by which we have
introduced the tourist to it, viz. by the foot. This lake is well worth the
notice of the traveller who is not afraid of fatigue: no part of the
country is more distinguished by sublimity.
{marginal = Wasdale Head}
Wastdale Head contains only a few scattered houses; and its small
chapel has only eight pews, and is without a burial-ground.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 172}
{marginal = Sty Head}
Stye Head.- From this hamlet, the tourist must ascend the road which
winds along the side of Great Gable to the summit of the pass, having the
Pikes of Scafell on the right.
{marginal = Seathwaite}
Seathwaite.- Thence the road leads down into the pastoral vale of
Borrodale, having on the left, near this village, the far-famed Wad Mine.
Hence the road has been described to Keswick.
{table- }
{header- XIV. KESWICK TO THIRLMERE, AND ST. JOHN'S ROCK. - 18 M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","KESWICK TO","Miles."
"","",""
"1","Castle Rigg","1"
"3","Shoolthwaite Moss","4"
"2½","Raven Crag","6½"
"½","Armboth House","7"
"1","Dalehead Hall","8"
"2","Legberthwaite Mill","10"
"2","Lowthwaite","12"
"2","Threlkeld","14"
"4","Keswick","18"
{ -endtable}
This tour has already been noticed, and will be found a very pleasant one.
{table- }
{header- XV. WHITEHAVEN TO KESWICK. - 27 M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","WHITEHAVEN TO","Miles."
"","",""
"2","Moresby","2"
"2","Distington","4"
"2","Winscales","6"
"3","Little Clifton","9"
"5","Cockermouth","14"
"2½","Embleton","16½"
"6½","Thornthwaite","23"
"4","Keswick","27"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Whitehaven}
WHITEHAVEN is a well-built town. During the last century, it has risen into
importance in consequence of its vicinity to the extensive coal-mines of
the Earl of Lonsdale. The harbour is large and safe, being protected by an
extensive pier, built after a design by Sir John Rennie. Upwards of 140,000
chaldrons of coals are annually exported.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 173}
{continues last paragraph}
There are three churches in the town, a Scotch church, and several
dissenting meeting-houses. Steam-packets ply between Dublin and Whitehaven
regularly, as well as Liverpool, the Isle of Man, and Scotland. This town
sends one member to Parliament. Population, 11,393; market-days, Tuesday,
Thursday, and Saturday; inns, Black Lion, Golden Lion, and
Globe.
{marginal = Cockermouth}
COCKERMOUTH. (See page 81.)
{marginal = Bassenthwaite Lake}
Bassenthwaite Water. (See page 85.)
{marginal = Keswick}
Keswick. (See page 51.)
{table- }
{header- XVI. WORKINGTON TO KESWICK. 21 M.}
"","",""
"","","Miles."
"","",""
"","Workington to Cockermouth","8"
"","Cockermouth to Keswick","13"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Workington}
WORKINGTON, a sea-port of Cumberland, situated on the south bank of the
Derwent, has a good harbour, and an extensive trade in coal, from the
valuable collieries of Henry Curwen, Esq., and several other collieries,
many of which are at a considerable distance. On the east side of the town
is Workington Hall, the manor-house of the ancient family of Curwen, finely
situated on an elevated position above the river. It is remarkable as
having afforded an asylum to the unfortunate and persecuted Mary Queen of
Scots, when she landed at Workington. Population, 6415; market-day,
Wednesday; inns, Green Dragon, New Crown, and King's
Arms.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 174}
{table- }
{header- XVII. KESWICK TO PENRITH.- 17½ M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","KESWICK TO","Miles."
"","",""
"4","Threlkeld","4"
"7½","Penruddock","11½"
"3½","Stainton","15"
"2½","Penrith","17½"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Threlkeld}
Threlkeld.- On the right is seen the truly interesting valley of St.
John, at the high end of which is a mass of rock, called the Castle Rock of
St. John.
{marginal = Penruddock}
Penruddock.- About three miles to the left, and visible from the
high-road, is Greystoke Castle, the seat of Henry Howard, Esq., a fine and
ancient structure, containing some splendid pictures, and many objects of
curiosity.
{marginal = Penrith}
Penrith. (See page 131.)
{table- }
{header- XVIII. PENRITH TO CARLISLE.- 18 M.}
"","",""
"Miles.","PENRITH TO","Miles."
"","",""
"4½","Salkeld Great","4½"
"½","Plumpton","5"
"4¼","High Hesket","9¼"
"1½","Low Hesket","10¾"
"4¾","Carleton","15½"
"1","Harraby","16½"
"1½","Carlisle","18"
{ -endtable}
{marginal = Plumpton}
Plumpton.- On the left are the ruins of Old Penrith, formerly
a Roman station, traces of which still remain. It was 170 yards from south
to north, and 110 from east to west. The station is about 200 yards from
the river Petteril. The ramparts are still high, and the ditch very
visible. Horsley supposes it to have been Bremetereracum.
{marginal = High Hesket}
High Hesket, a large village, half-way between
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 175}
{continues last paragraph}
Carlisle and Penrith. Has an excellent inn, the White Ox, conducted
by Mrs. Pearson. On the right is Tarn Wadling, a lake covering about one
hundred acres of ground.
{marginal = Carlisle}
CARLISLE. (See page 100.)
{header- XIX.}
{header- SKETCH OF A TOUR FROM CARLISLE TO THE LAKES,}
Comprising most interesting and beautiful Scenery.
'CARLISLE - Bush, Crown and Mitre, and Royal Hotels,
excellent - Cathedral - Castle:- Corby Castle, the picturesque seat of
Philip Henry Howard, Esq. M.P. - Castle and walks shown every Wednesday -
will occupy a day, returning to Carlisle.
'Leaving Carlisle, at six miles on the London road, by the left, proceed to
the village of Armathwaite; cross the river Eden, by the right, to Nunnery,
the seat of H. A. Aglionby, Esq. M.P.- the walks on the Eden and Croglin
rivers are magnificent, and shown daily; cross the river Croglin to
Staffold Hall - the walks on the Eden and Croglin, equally splendid, are
shown every day; through the market-town of Kirkoswald, on the left, and
then on the right, through Glassonby; then on the right, in half a mile, on
the right in a field, a slight deviation from the road, there is a
druidical monument called 'Long Meg and her Daughters,' consisting of one
very high
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 176}
{continues last paragraph}
stone, and about sixty others, forming a circle, the property of Colonel
Lacy of Eden Lacy; through the village of Little Salkeld to Longwathby;
cross the river Eden to Penrith - Crown Hotel and George Inn,
excellent. The drive is about twenty-seven miles, and four horses in
posting, &c. recommended.
'Lowther Castle, the seat of the Earl of Lonsdale - Castle and grounds
shown daily; from Lowther, on the left, cross the river Lowther to
Eusemere, at the foot of Ulleswater Lake; proceed to the head of the lake,
Patterdale; returning down the lake, Lyulph's Tower, the property of Henry
Howard, Esq. of Greystoke Castle - a cascade in the grounds - proceed down
the lake, and by the banks of the river Eamont to Penrith.
'Leave Penrith for Keswick, Derwent Water, and Bassenthwaite Lakes,
Borrodale, Barrow Cascade; from Keswick to Cockermouth, by Bassenthwaite
Lake, Buttermere Lake, and Scale Force Cascade, Lowes Water Lake, Crummock
Lake. Return to Keswick by the same road, or by Whinlatter Fell.
'Leave Keswick for Ambleside, Grasmere Lake, Rydal Cascade, Windermere
Lake, Coniston Lake, &c. - Leave Ambleside for Kendal.'
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 177}
{table- }
{header- A TABLE}
{header- OF THE LENGTH, BREADTH, &c. OF THE LAKES,}
{header- COLLECTED FROM DIFFERENT AUTHORITIES.}
"","","","","",""
"No.","Names of Lakes.","Height above sea in feet.","Length in
miles.","Breadth in miles.","Depth in fathoms."
"","","","","",""
"1","Coniston Water","","6 -","- ¾","27 - 30"
"2","Devoke Water","","½ -","",""
"3","Wast Water","","3 - 3½","½ - ¾","45 -"
"4","Ennerdale Water","","2½ -","¾ -","13 -"
"5","Buttermere","","1¼ -","½ -","15 -"
"6","Crummock Water","273","3 -","¾ -","22 -"
"7","Lowes Water","","¾ -","½ -","10 -"
"8","Thirlmere","546","2½ - 2¾","¾ -","18 -"
"9","Derwent Water","228","3 -","1½ -","14 -"
"10","Bassenthwaite Lake","210","4 - 3½","1 -","12 -"
"11","Brothers Water","","¾ -","½ -","12 -"
"12","Ulles Water","318","9 -","1 -","20 - 35"
"13","Hawes Water","714","3 -","- ½","50 -"
"14","Kentmere","","","",""
"15","Grasmere","180","1 -","- ½","12 -"
"16","Rydal Water","156","½ - 1","½ -","9 -"
"17","Elter Water","","¾ -","",""
"18","Windermere","108","10 - 12","1 - 2","40 - 37"
"19","Esthwaite Water","198","2 - 1¾","½ -","13 -"
{ -endtable}
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 178}
{table- }
{header- ELEVATION OF THE MOUNTAINS,}
{header- ACCORDING TO DIFFERENT AUTHORITIES.}
"","","","","",""
"No.","Names of Mountains.","Dalton.","Otley.","Trig. S.","Jamieson"
"","","","","",""
"1","Sca Fell Pike","","3160","3166",""
"2","Sca Fell","3240","3100","",""
"3","Helvellyn","3210","3070","","3313"
"4","Skiddaw","3180","3022","",""
"5","Bow Fell","3090","2911","",""
"6","Rydal Head","3090","","",""
"7","Great Gable, Wastdale","","2925","",""
"8","Fairfield","","2950","",""
"9","Cross Fell, near Alston","2901","","","3383"
"10","Pillar","","2893","",""
"11","Grasmoor","2865","2756","",""
"12","Red Pike, Buttermere","2850","","",""
"13","Blencathra, Saddleback","","2787","2789","2889"
"14","Kentmere, High Street","2736","2700","",""
"15","Grisedale Pike","","2580","2680",""
"16","Coniston Old Man","2580","2577","2576",""
"17","Hill Bell","2436","","",""
"18","Langdale Pikes","","2400","",""
"19","Carrick, near Caldbeck","2232","2110","2290","2000"
"20","Calf Hill","","","","2188"
"21","Nine Standards, Yorkshire, and Wastend","","","","2136"
"22","High Pike, Caldbeck","","","2101",""
"23","Causey Pike","","2030","2040",""
"24","Goat Scar, Hawes Water","1989","","",""
"25","Black Combe","","1919","",""
"26","Lord's Seat","","1728","",""
"27","Wans Fell","","1500","",""
"28","Cat Bell","","1448","",""
"29","Latrigg","","1160","",""
"30","Dent, near Whitehaven","","","1115",""
"31","Penrith Beacon","1020","","",""
"32","Kendal Fell","648","","",""
"33","Scilly Bank, Whitehaven","","","500",""
"34","Egremont","","","293",""
"35","Kendal","138","","",""
{ -endtable}
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 179}
{table- }
{header- WATERFALLS.}
"","",""
"No.","Name and Situation of Fall.","Height."
"","",""
"1","Scale Force, near Buttermere","196 feet."
"2","Colwith Force, five miles from Ambleside","152 ,,"
"3","Stockgill Force, near Ambleside","150 ,,"
"4","Barrow Cascade, two miles from Keswick","122 ,,"
"5","Lodore Fall, near Keswick","150 ,,"
"6","Dungeon Gill, Langdale","90 ,,"
"7","Sour Milk Force, near Buttermere","60 ,,"
"8","Airey Force, Gowbarrow Park","80 ,,"
"9","Rydal Fall, near Ambleside","70 ,,"
"10","Birker Force, Eskdale","65 ,,"
"11","Stanley Gill, near Eskdale","62 ,,"
"12","Nunnery Fall, one mile from Kirkoswald","60 ,,"
"13","Skelwith Force","20 ,,"
"14","Howk, Caldbeck","50 ,,"
{ -endtable}
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 180}
{table- }
{header- MAIL, POSTING, AND COACH ROUTES.}
"","","","","","",""
"CARLISLE TO LIVERPOOL.","CARLISLE TO MANCHESTER.","CARLISLE TO
EDINBURGH.","CARLISLE TO GLASGOW.","CARLISLE TO NEWCASTLE.","CARLISLE TO
WHITEHAVEN.","CARLISLE TO PORT PATRICK."
"Miles.","Miles.","Miles.","Miles.","Miles.","Miles.","Miles."
"Penrith 18","Penrith 18","Longtown 9","Gretna 10","Brampton 10","Wigton
11","Gretna 10"
"Shap 11","Shap 11","Langholm 12","Lockerbie 15","Haltwhistle 11","Allonby
11","Annan 7"
"Kendal 16","Kendal 16","Mosspaul 10","Beatock Bridge 14","Hexham
15","Maryport 5","Dumfries 16"
"Burton 11","Burton 11","Hawick 13","Crawford 16","Newcastle
20","Workington 7","Castle Douglas 16"
"Lancaster 11","Lancaster 11","Selkirk 12","Douglas Mill 12","","Whitehaven
8","Gatehouse 14"
"Garstang 11","Garstang 11","Torsonce 14","Hamilton 18","Or, by the
Railway.","","Newton Stewart 17"
"Preston 11","Preston 11","Fushie Bridge 14","Glasgow 11","","","Glenluce
17"
"Ormskirk 20","Chorley 9","Edinburgh 12","","","","Stranraer 10"
"Liverpool 13","Bolton 11","","","","","Port Patrick 6"
"","Manchester 12","","","","",""
"*122","*121","96","96","56","42","113"
{ -endtable}
* Or by Railway from Lancaster.
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 181}
{table- }
{header- ROUTE.}
{header- POST LINE OF ROAD FROM CARLISLE TO LONDON.}
"","","",""
"Towns.","Inns.","Innkeepers.","Miles."
"","","",""
"Penrith","Crown","Foster","18"
"Appleby","King's Head","Herd","14"
"Brough","Castle","Kilvington","8"
"Greta Bridge","George","Martin","19"
"Catterick Bridge","George","Fryer","14"
"Leeming Lane","New Inn","Couldwell","11"
"Borough Bridge","Crown","Cook","12"
"Wetherby","Angel","Clemishaw","12"
"Ferry Bridge","Angel","Atkinson","17"
"Doncaster","Angel","Brooks","15"
"Barnby Moor","Bell","Inett","14"
"Scarthing Moor","Black Lion","Sharpe","13"
"Newark","Clinton Arms","Lawton","11"
"Grantham","George","Burbidge","14"
"Witham Common","Bull","Hardy","10"
"Wansford","Hay Cock","Percival","17"
"Alconbury Hill","Wheat Sheaf","Warsop","16"
"Eaton","Cock","Walker","13"
"Biggleswade","Lion","Mitcheil","10"
"Stevenage","Swan","Cass","14"
"Hatfield","Salisbury Arms","Townsend","12"
"Barnet","Green Man","Newman","9"
"London","","","12"
"","","",""
"","Total","","305"
{ -endtable}
{title- Ford's Guide to the Lakes, 1843}
{page = 183}
{text- The index is arranged in two columns on the page; this layout is not
preserved by this transcription. The occasional mistake in alphabetical
order is not corrected. Pages 183-190:-}
{marginal = index}
INDEX.
{table- }
{header- A}
"Aaron End","69"
"Airey Force","146"
"Allithwaite","155"
"Allonby","64"
"Ambleside","17, 27, 32, 161"
"--- Fells","16"
"--- Hall","34"
"Anglebarrow","80"
"Angle Tarn","143"
"Angling Stone","80"
"Applethwaite","30, 53"
"Armathwaite","125"
"--- Castle","125"
"--- Hall","85"
"Armboth","49"
"Arnside","155"
"Ascent of the Old Man","10"
"Ashness","53, 61, 168"
"Arthur's Round Table","133"
"Askham","135"
{header- B}
"Bampton","137"
"Barnscar","13"
"Baron Wood","124"
"Barrow Cascade","55, 61, 166"
"--- Common","55"
"--- House","166"
"Barton","142"
"Bassenthwaite","85"
"--- Haws","86"
"Bays Brown","69"
"Beathwaite Green","19"
"Beauthorn","143"
"Beetham","152"
"Belle Grange","25, 30"
"--- Isle","26"
"Bellman Ground","25, 27"
"Belo River","17"
"Berkshire Island","27"
"Bewcastle","102"
"Binsey","64"
"Birdoswald","115"
"Birkby Fell","13"
"Birk Fell","144"
"Birker Force","13"
"Birkrigg","157"
"Blackcombe","15"
"Black Sale","80"
"Blake Fell","80"
"--- Rigg","44"
"Blea Tarn","37, 61, 143"
"Bleabury Fell","92"
"Blelham Tarn","34"
"Blencathra","50, 65"
"Blenkinsopp Castle","118"
"Blowick","148"
"Bolton-le-Sands","152"
"Bootle","14, 15"
"Bordale","145"
"Borrodale","56, 61, 66"
"--- Chapel","68"
"--- Hawse","169"
"Bowderdale","72"
"Bowder Stone","67, 167"
"Bowness","17, 23, 27, 28, 158"
"--- Church","28"
"--- Rectory","27, 29"
"--- Knott","80"
"Bowscale","95"
"Bradness","85"
"Braithwaite","58"
"Brampton","118"
"Brandelow","56"
"Branstree","138"
"Brathay","23, 24, 36, 38"
"--- Bridge","36"
"Brathay Park","31"
"Bridekirk","84"
"Brother Water","149"
"Brougham Castle","134"
"--- Hall","133"
"Broughton","12, 15"
"Brow Top","51"
"Brundholm","66"
"Bull Crag","48"
"Burnmoor Tarn","72"
"Butterlip How","42, 44"
"Buttermere","89, 169"
"--- Moss","89"
"--- Hawse","90"
{header- C}
"Caldbeck","96"
"Calder Abbey","73"
"--- Bridge","73"
"Caldew","97"
"Calgarth","23"
"--- Park","24, 27, 30"
"Camcoom Head","88"
"Capon Tree","118"
"Carleton","174"
"Carlisle","1, 100"
"--- Castle","102"
"--- Cathedral","103"
"--- Grammar School","107"
"--- Infirmary","106"
"--- & Liverpool Steamers","107"
"Carnforth","152"
"Carrick fell","95"
"Carrs, Great and Little","37"
"Cartmel","3, 155"
"--- Bay","5"
"--- Holy Well","3, 155"
"Castle Crag","50, 57, 66, 167"
"--- Head","58"
"--- Hill","53"
"--- How","80"
"--- Rigg","50, 165"
"Catbells","55, 64"
"Caton","154"
"Causey Pikes","64"
"Chapelhill","159"
"City","48"
"Claife","17"
"Clappersgate","23, 36"
"Claughton","154"
"Cleator","79"
"Clifton","134"
"Cocker","82, 83"
"Cockermouth","81"
"--- Church","82"
"--- Castle","83"
"Cockley Beck","12"
"Cockshot","58"
"Coldale Fell","43"
"Colwith Force","37, 162"
"Conishead Priory","5"
"Coniston Church","12"
"--- Fells","9"
"--- Hall","9, 10"
"--- Old Man","8, 10"
"--- Water","8, 12, 158"
"Cooms","124"
"Copeland Forest","75"
"Corby","119"
"Countess Pillar","134"
"Cowbridge","149"
"Crake","8"
"Criffel","102"
"Croglin","126, 127"
"Crosby","108"
"Crossdale","80"
"Cross Fell","60"
"Crossthwaite","52"
"--- Church","45, 152"
"Crow Holm","29"
"--- Park","53, 57"
"Crummock Water","90, 169"
"Cumwhitton","124"
"Curwen's or Belle Isle","26, 29"
{header- D}
"Dacre","142"
"Dalegarth Hall","13"
"Dalehead Hall","49, 50"
"--- Park","165"
"Dalemain","142"
"Dalston","99"
"--- Hall","99"
"Dalton","5, 156"
"Deargarth Cascades","49"
"Deepdale","149"
"Deepthwaite","153"
"Denton","115"
"Derwent River","56, 81"
"--- Vale","86"
"--- Water","53, 64, 86, 166"
"Dockwray","147"
"Dolly-Waggon Pike","46"
"Dowthwaite","147"
"Dove Crag","149"
"--- Nest","27"
"Druid's Circle","59"
"Drummer's Stile","23"
"Duddon","12, 15"
"Dufton Pikes","132"
"Dunald Millhole","152"
"Dungeon Gill","38"
"Dunmallet","143"
"Dunmail Raise","45, 164"
{header- E}
"Eagle Crag","68"
"Eaglesfield","81"
"Eamont","132, 134"
"--- Bridge","135"
"Easedale","43"
"--- Tarn","24, 44"
"Eden","124, 125"
"Edenhall","130"
"Edmond Castle","124"
"Egremont","75"
"Ehen","75, 79"
"Elevation of Mountains","178"
"Elleray","23"
"Elter Water","24, 39"
"Embleton","85"
"Ennerdale Bridge","81, 170"
"--- Water","79"
"Eskdale","13"
"Esthwaite Hall","17"
"--- Water","16, 158"
"Etterby Scar","101"
{header- F}
"Fairfield","9, 12, 34"
"Fairy's Kettle","96"
"Fairy Kirk","97"
"Falcon Crag","92"
"Featherstone Castle","118"
"Fell Foot","27, 37"
"Ferry House","29, 158"
"--- Inn","27"
"Fisher Crag","48"
"Floating Island","54"
"Flookboro'","156"
"Floutern tarn","80"
"Foe Park","56"
"Fordingdale Beck","138"
"Friar Crag","58"
"Furness Abbey","2, 6"
"--- Fells","15, 29"
{header- G}
"Gable","71, 72, 80"
"Gait Crags","50"
"Gale","34"
"Gatesgarth","88"
"Gavel Fell","80"
"Gelt Bridge, Low","118"
"--- Middle","118"
"Giant's Thumb","131"
"Giller Coom","69"
"Gillerthwaite","80"
"Gilsland Spa","115"
"Glaramara","55"
"Glencoin","147"
"Glenderamaken","65"
"Glenderaterra","65"
"Glenridding","147"
"Goat's Water","12"
"Goldrill Beck","143"
"--- Crag","12, 13"
"Goldscope","93"
"Goody Bridge","44"
"Gosforth","73, 171"
"Gowbarrow","144, 146"
"Gowdar Crag","56"
"Grange","56, 166"
"Grasmere","41, 163"
"--- Church & Rectory","43"
"--- Fells","9, 16"
"--- Red Lion","43"
"Grasmire","64"
"Grathwaite","25"
"Graysdale Tarn","148"
"Greystoke Castle","133, 174"
"--- Park","95"
"Great Dodd","49"
"Great End","70"
"Green Crag","62"
"Greenup","68"
"Greta","59, 165"
"Grisedale Beck","143"
"--- Pike","92"
"Grizedale","64"
"Gunner's How","16, 27, 30"
{header- H}
"Hackthorpe","141"
"Hale","75"
"Hallin Fell","143"
"Hallsteads","145"
"Hard Knot","37"
"Harrop Tarn","48"
"Harter Fell","138"
"Hartsope Low","149"
"--- Hall","149"
"Hasness","88"
"Hawes Water","137, 159"
"Hawksdale","99"
"Hawkshead","15, 158"
"--- Church","17"
"--- Old Hall","16"
"Haycocks","72"
"Haystacks","68"
"Hayton","119"
"--- Church","124"
"Heathwaite","23"
"Helm Crag","42, 164"
"Helvellyn","9, 45"
"Hen Holm Island","26"
"Herd House","80"
"Hest Bank","155"
"Hesket-New-Market","96"
"Heversham","17, 153"
"High Broad Rain","44"
"--- Crag","93"
"--- Hesket","174"
"--- Nook","80"
"--- Pike","95"
"--- Stile","88"
"--- Street","26, 31"
"--- Wray","25, 30"
"Hill Bell","26"
"Hindscarth","64"
"Hind Crag","69"
"Hindsgarth","93"
"Holker Hall","4, 156"
"Hollin Grove","44"
"Holm Hill","99"
"--- Crag","56"
"Honistar Crag","88, 169"
"Hornby Castle","154"
"Horse Head Inn, Wythburn","45"
"How Hall","80"
"--- Town","144"
"Howk","96"
"Howray","57"
"Humphrey Head","3"
"Hutton Moor","60"
"--- Hall","133"
"--- John","142"
{header- I}
"INTRODUCTION","iii"
"Ings","23, 160"
"Ingleborough","155"
"Ireby","64"
"Iron Crags","50"
"Irt","14, 72"
"Irthing","108"
"Irthington","108"
"Isthmus","92"
"Ivy Cottage","41"
"--- Crag","35"
"Jenkin Hill","92"
{header- K}
"Karl Lofts","141"
"Keer","2"
"Kendal","19, 153"
"--- Castle","20"
"--- Castlehow Hill","20"
"--- Church","21"
"--- St. George's","21"
"--- White Hall","20"
"Kent","18, 19, 20"
"--- Bank","3"
"--- Mere","139"
"--- Sands","3"
"Kentmere Tarn","159"
"--- Hall","139"
"Keppel Cove Tarn","46"
"Keskadale","93, 169"
"Keswick","51, 165"
"--- Church","52"
"Kidsty Pike","138"
"King Water","108"
"King's Head, Legberthwaite","50"
"Kirkby Lonsdale","17, 154"
"--- Stephen","132"
"Kirkcambeck","108"
"Kirkfell","72"
"Kirkoswald","128"
"--- Church and Castle","128"
"--- College","129"
"Kirkstone","145, 149"
"Knockmurton","81"
"Knott Crags","65"
{header- L}
"Lamplugh Cross","170"
"--- Church","81"
"Lancaster","2, 151"
"--- Sands","2, 155"
"Lanercost","109"
"Langdale Chapel","39"
"--- Great","36, 162"
"--- Head","24, 39"
"--- Little","37, 162"
"--- Pikes","25, 36, 162"
"Langstreth","68"
"Langthwaite Green","91"
"Latrigg","53, 66"
"Lazonby","128"
"Leathes Water","47"
"--- West Side of","62"
"Legberthwaite","49, 165"
"--- Mill","63"
"Lemon Hall","143"
"Length & Breadth of Lakes","177"
"Leven River","11, 24, 27"
"--- Sands","4, 156"
"Levens Bridge","153"
"--- Chapel","18"
"--- Hall","18"
"--- Water","11"
"Lile Fell","65"
"Lily of the Valley Islands","29"
"Lingholm","26"
"Lingmell Crags","71"
"Lingmire","36"
"Linthwaite Pike","65"
"Little Salkeld","128, 130"
"Liza","80"
"Long Bridge","57"
"--- Meg","129"
"Longwathby","130"
"Lonscale","56"
"Lord's Island","54, 92"
"--- Oak","40"
"--- Seat","85"
"Lorton","91"
"Loughrigg Fell","35, 162"
"--- Tarn","35, 162"
"Lodore","53, 55, 166"
"--- Inn","56, 66"
"Low House","124"
"Lowes Water","91, 170"
"Lowick","8"
"--- Bridge","8, 157"
"Lowther","135"
"Lowthwaite","63"
"Low Hesket","174"
"--- Water","11"
"--- Wood Inn","27, 31, 161"
"Lune","2"
"Lyulph's Tower","146"
{header- M}
"Man, Isle of","11, 15"
"Maiden Moor","93"
"Manesty","166"
"Mardale Chapel","138"
"Martindale","145"
"Maryport","64"
"Matterdale","147"
"Mayburgh","133"
"Melbreak","90"
"Mell Fell","92"
"Mickle Door","71"
"Middle Fell","72"
"--- Tongue","46"
"Mill Beck in Langdale","38"
"--- Bassenthwaite","87"
"Miller Bridge","35"
"--- Ground","30"
"Milnthorpe","2, 17, 152"
"Mirehouse","87"
"Mite","14"
"Monarch Isle","23"
"Morecam Bay","24, 155"
"Mosedale in Seathwaite","12"
"Mossdale","95"
"Muncaster Castle","13"
"Mungrisdale","94"
{header- N}
"Nab Scar","34"
"Naddle Fell","48, 60"
"Nanbield Pass","139"
"Naworth","112"
"Nether Beck","72"
"--- Bridge","73"
"--- Wasdale","73"
"Nettleslack Bridge","13"
"Newby Bridge","27"
"Newcastle & Carlisle Railw.","107"
"Newfield","13"
"Newlands","92, 169"
"Nibthwaite","9, 158"
"Nichol Forest","124"
"Nook Bridge","34"
"Nunnery","126"
{header- O}
"Oaks","99"
"Old Man","10"
"--- Penrith","174"
"Orchard House","115"
"Orest Head","160"
"Ormathwaite","53, 63"
"Orton","22"
"Over Beck","72"
"--- Bridge","73"
"Oxen Houses","9"
{header- P}
"Papcastle","84"
"Patterdale","148"
"Pavey Ark","38"
"Peel Castle","15"
"--- Island","10"
"Penny Bridge","8"
"Penrith","1, 131"
"--- Beacon","132"
"--- Castle","132"
"Penruddock","174"
"Petteril River","100"
"Pillar","73, 80"
"Place Fell","144"
"Plumpton","174"
"Plumptree Bank & Hall","153"
"Ponsonby Hall","74, 171"
"Pooley Bridge","142"
"Portinscale","56, 166"
"Posting & Coaching Routes","180"
"Priestman","65"
"Prospect Hill","128"
{header- R}
"Raise Beck","44"
"--- Gap","24, 43"
"Rampsbeck","143"
"Rampsholm","54"
"Randerson's Band","67"
"Rannerdale Knott","90"
"Raven Crag","48"
"Ravenglass","14"
"Rawlinson's Nab","24, 25"
"Rayrigg","24, 25"
"Red Lion, Grasmere","43"
"--- Pike","64, 88"
"--- Tarn","46"
"Rickerby","101"
"Riggendale","138"
"Robinson","64, 89"
"Rose Castle","97"
"--- Hill","115"
"Rosthwaite","67, 168"
"Rothay","24, 41, 44"
"Rougha Bridge","50"
"Route from Carlisle to Lond.","181"
"Rydal Falls","40"
"--- Fells","9, 16"
"--- Hall","40, 163"
"--- Mount","41, 163"
"--- Water","41, 163"
{header- S}
"Saddleback","65"
"Sadgill","140, 160"
"St. Bees","77"
"--- College","78"
"St. Cuthbert's, Carlisle","105"
"St. Herbert's Island","54"
"St. John's Beck","50"
"--- Chapel","63"
"--- Dodd","92"
"--- Rock","62, 174"
"--- Vale","49"
"St. Mary, Ulverston","4"
"St. Mary's Holme","109"
"St. Sunday Crag","46"
"Sca Fell","39, 70"
"Scale Force","89"
"--- Hill","91, 170"
"Scales","65"
"--- Tarn","65"
"Scandale Beck","34, 161"
"--- Bridge","34"
"--- Fell","29, 33"
"Scarf Gap","80"
"Scarness","85"
"Screes","73"
"Seathwaite","12, 172"
"--- Bridge","69"
"--- Chapel","13"
"--- Tarn","12"
"--- Village","68, 69"
"Seatoller","69, 168"
"Seton Nun","14"
"--- Hall","14"
"Seat Sandal","42"
"Sebergham","97"
"Shap Abbey","140"
"Shaws Hotel, Gilsland","115"
"Shepherd's Crag","56"
"Shire Stones","12"
"Shoolthwaite","49"
"Silver How, in Langdale","39"
"--- Grasmere","42"
"Sizergh Hall","19, 153"
"Skelgill","25, 34"
"Skelwith Force","24, 36"
"--- Bridge","162"
"Sketch of a Tour","175"
"Skiddaw","63"
"Sleddale, Long","140"
"Smalthwaite Bridge","50"
"Small Water","139, 159"
"Smithy Beck","80"
"Solway","64"
"Soulby Fell","145"
"Sour Milk Gill","44"
"Souter Fell","94"
"South Pike, Scafell","70"
"Sprinkling Tarn","70"
"Sprint River","140"
"Stable Field","53"
"Staffold Hall","126"
"Stainmore","132"
"Stair Mill","93"
"Stake","68"
"Stanley Gill","13"
"Stanwix","101"
"Station House","29"
"Staveley","23, 159"
"--- Nether","140"
"Steel Bridge","44"
"--- Fell","45"
"Stickle Tarn","38"
"Stockgill Force","33, 161"
"Stockley Bridge","70"
"Stonethwaite","68"
"Stoney Croft Bridge","93"
"Storrs Hall","24, 27"
"Strands","73"
"Strickland Kettle","140"
"Striding Edge","46"
"Stybarrow","144, 147"
"Stye Head","70, 172"
"Styx","46"
"Swan Inn, Grasmere","44"
"Swarth Fell","143"
"Swarthmoor Hall","5"
"Sweden Bridge","161"
"Swindale","140"
"Swinside","57"
"Swirrel Edge","46"
{header- T}
"Tarn Crag, Saddleback","65"
"--- Hows","12"
"Wadling","64, 175"
"Taylor's Gill","70"
"Tent Lodge","10"
"Thirlmere","47"
"Thirwall Castle","117"
"Thornthwaite","92"
"--- Fell","92"
"Thrang Crag","39"
"Threlkeld","94, 174"
"Thrimby","141"
"Tilberthwaite","9, 12"
"--- Fells","9"
"Tippal","117"
"Tirril","142"
"Torver","15"
"--- Wood","27"
"Triermain Castle","118"
"Troutbeck","24, 31"
"--- Bridge","32, 160"
"--- Hundreds","139"
{header- U}
"Ulles Water","46, 143"
"Ulverston","4, 156"
"Underbarrow","22"
{header- V}
"Vicar's Island","54, 92"
"Vicarage, Keswick","53"
{header- W}
"Wad Mine","69"
"Wall End","37"
"Wallow Crag","55, 58"
"Walna Scar","12"
"Walney Island","11, 15"
"Walton","108"
"--- House","108"
"Wansfell","34"
"Wanthwaite Crags","50, 63"
"Warnel Fell","97"
"--- Hall","97"
"Warton Crag","155"
"Warwick Bridge","124"
"--- Hall","123"
"Wast Water","72, 171"
"Wastdale","71, 171"
"Watch Gate","160"
"Watendlath","61, 168"
"Waterfalls","179"
"Water End","56"
"Water Head, Coniston","9, 155"
"--- Windermere","25, 32"
"Watermillock","143"
"--- Old Church","144"
"Wedderlamb","37"
"Welton","97"
"Wetheral","121"
"--- Priory","123"
"--- Safeguards","122"
"Whelpside","46"
"Whelter","138"
"Whinlatter","92"
"Whitehaven","1, 78, 172"
"Whiteless","93"
"White Moss Slate Quarry","41"
"White Pike","94"
"Whiteside","46"
"White Water Dash","86"
"Wigton","64"
"Wildbore Fell","132"
"Windermere","23, 24"
"--- Ferry","17"
"Workington","173"
"--- Hall","173"
"Wotobank","76"
"Wray","25"
"Wrynose","12, 24"
"Wythburn Chapel","45, 164"
"--- Head","45"
"--- Water","164"
"Wythop","86"
{header- Y}
"Yanwath","135"
"Yewbarrow","72"
"--- Hall","140, 160"
"Yew Crag Quarry","88"
"Yewdale","11"
"--- Fells","9"
{ -endtable}
{text- At the foot of page 190:-}
CARLISLE: PRINTED AT THE OFFICE OF CHARLES THURNHAM.