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At the house, at the top of the pass, (which he has walked
up, in mercy to his horses) he leaves the Troutbeck road to
the left, and descends rapidly upon Ambleside, which is
between three and four miles from the house. On the left, is
the valley or ravine of the Stock, whose waters are
concealed by wood. The road runs along the slopes of the
Scandale Fells. Below, Windermere opens more and more; and
at length, the pretty little town of Ambleside appears,
nestling at the foot of Wansfell, and the valley of the
Rothay opens at the gazer's feet. On the opposite margin of
this green recess, and on the skirts of Loughrigg, he sees
Fox How, the residence and favourite retirement of the late
Dr. Arnold, and now inhabited by his family. Near the pass
which opens between Loughrigg and Fairfield, he is told that
the residence of Wordsworth may be seen from below. Just
under him to the left is the old church; and near the centre
of the valley is the new church,- more of a blemish than an
adornment, unhappily, from its size and clumsiness, and the
bad taste of its architecture. Though placed in a valley, it
has a spire,- the appropriate form of churches in a level
country; and the spire is of a different color (sic) from
the rest of the building; and the east window is remarkably
ugly. There have been various reductions of the beauty of
the valley within twenty years or so; and this latest is the
worst, because the most conspicuous. The old church, though
not beautiful, is suitable to the position, and venerable by
its ancient aspect. It is abundantly large enough for the
place, except for a few weeks in summer: but its burial
ground, inclosed by
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